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FAQs about Marine Shrimp Systems
Related FAQs: Marine
Shrimps 1, Shrimp Identification, Shrimp Selection,
Shrimp Behavior, Shrimp
Compatibility, Shrimp Feeding, Shrimp
Reproduction, Shrimp Disease, Cleaner
Shrimp, Banded
Coral Shrimp, Dancing Shrimp, Harlequin
Shrimp, Pistol Shrimp, Saron
Shrimp, Mantis
Shrimp, Anemone
Eating Shrimp, Crustacean
Identification, Crustacean Selection,
Crustacean Behavior,
Crustacean Compatibility,
Crustacean Systems,
Crustacean Feeding,
Crustacean Disease,
Crustacean Reproduction,
Related Articles: Shrimp, A Few Common
Shrimps for the Marine Aquarium by James W. Fatherree,
Shrimp eater.
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Tank safe for sexy anemone shrimps? - 02/09/2007
Greetings!
<Evening>
As part of an order headed my way, I will be receiving 3 sexy anemone shrimps
(Thor amboinensis).
<Oh yes... am wagging my tail in emulation>
My plan was to put them in my 65 gallon reef tank, but since placing the order,
I have begun to wonder just how vulnerable they actually are given their small
size (I've only seen them at my LFS but never kept them in my own tanks). I
think all of my fish will leave them alone... with the possible exception of the
Banggai Cardinal (who seems to LOVE "anything meaty looking" that he finds in
the water column - though I've never seen him "hunt" anything hiding in
the rocks/coral).
<Mmm, I'd separate the shrimp (and their anemone for a few days...)>
Here's the complete lineup of fish in the tank:
• 2 clownfish (one percula, one ocellaris - they've paired up and spend most of
their time in my branching hammer coral!)
• 2 purple firefish (Nemateleotris decora)
• 3 "bar gobies" (Ptereleotris zebra)
• 1 Banggai Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni)
• 1 Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi)
• 1 spotted mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus)
• 1 red headed goby (Elacatinus puncticulatus)
• 2 green-banded gobies (Elacatinus multifasciatus)
(yes, before I get in trouble, the mandarin and Rainford's goby are both getting
plenty to eat... my refugium is rockin' with 'pods, and both fish also have
taken to eating processed food as well <g>).
<Good>
While there are no anemones in the tanks,
<Uhh... no good... this animal lives in close association...>
there are several Acropora and Montipora colonies in the tank (and a few other
types of SPS as well) for the sexy shrimp to find homes in (I am under the
impression the shrimp will be content with these corals as "homes" since
that's how I've seen them at my LFS?).
<Mmm, no, not likely>
Anyhow - do you think the Banggai (or perhaps the Bar Gobies) will have them for
lunch if I put them in the tank... or should they be fine as long as they are
placed near a good coral colony to start?
<Need to be placed with a symbiotic anemone... the fishes will avoid this>
I do have 10- and 12- gallon tanks set up as well that the shrimp could go into
if you think the 65 will be "unsafe" for them after all, though those two tanks
are dedicated to lower light soft corals (Capnella, etc. which don't seem as
conducive to becoming homes for
the shrimp?)...
<I would place the shrimp elsewhere...>
What say the gurus of WetWebMedia? Thanks for your help!! -Nate
<Bob Fenner>
Tank safe for sexy anemone shrimps? - II - 02/11/2007
Thanks for the reply... and confirming my suspicions!
<Welcome>
I appreciate you giving me "the real scoop," since, as mentioned, I have seen
the shrimp on Acropora before at my LFS (I am now guessing it was only because
there was no anemone provided by the LFS?!),
<Yes>
and this blurb on LiveAquaria's site certainly implies that corals are "fine
homes" for these shrimp (see end of the first paragraph).
<Mmm... maybe w/o potential predators present... love that ona mata peia...>
Either way, thanks for the insights - if I decide to track down an anemone for
the shrimp (and set up another tank - I do have a 20
gallon sitting vacant and I'm sure my wife would LOVE it if I set up ANOTHER
tank in the house <g>),
<Heee!>
is there an "ideal" anemone I should try to find for these guys?
<Mmm, yes... depends on where your specimens originated... could be a
Condylactis if from the TWA... other if from the Pacific... is posted on the
Net, WWM>
Thanks again for your insights and wisdom...
Nate
<Mmm, little to no wisdom... some accumulated knowledge. Cheers, BobF>
How many shrimp are too many? 10/2/06
I'm new to the hobby and have been reading everything I can on your website
(great source of everything by the way).
<Guru Fenner has done our hobby a great service with the website. We are
thrilled you find it useful.>
I have a 30 gallon tank and do 20% water changes every week, a 300 power filter
and a protein skimmer, power compact light. I have a green Chromis (less than
1"), 1 flame angel (about 2"), 2 clownfish (both about 1"), 1 blood shrimp, and
2 peppermint shrimp.
I know about 5" of fish is my limit and I don't plan on any more but I want to
add more blood shrimp and skunk cleaners. Is this advised?
<I applaud the fact you considered a limit on the fish bioload in your tank. Do
realize though that you are looking at around 10"+ of fish depending on which
species of clown you have, when they are fully grown.>
Do shrimp heavily impact the bioload?
<Not significant>
I've also got various corals and polyps, and zooanthids. Too much? All I want
to add are some more shrimp but I won't if it puts my fish at risk. Help for a
newbie (is there a hotline for those that get really addicted to this).
<If you keep up with water quality and have plenty of live rock full of hiding
places I believe you will be ok adding another shrimp.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome, and I wish the best for you and you tank! - Emerson>
Paul
Toxicity of Cyanobacteria... can be extreme 8/27/06
Hi Crew,
<Thomas/Tom>
I have developed what I believe to be a Cyanobacteria problem in a 30 gallon
with 2 Gobies, 2 soft corals, and 1 Fireshrimp. This algae is purplish in color
and sort of thread-like, forming masses that hold together reasonably well.
<Is likely a BGA>
I have found several suggestions on your site about how to go about correcting
this problem, which I will get to work on. But I still have a question.
Prior to water changes, I have been attempting to break up this algae to syphon
at least some of it out during those changes. I have noticed my Fireshrimp
suffering after water changes (looks bad, like he might not survive). In
today's change, I noticed that he looked bad, before the new water goes in,
which is why I started to suspect this had something to do with what I was doing
to the algae.
<Mmm, either this and/or some part/aspect(s) of the new water... Both very
common>
So, can disturbing Cyanobacteria release toxics into the water that serious
affect a Fireshrimp, but not Gobies or soft corals?
<Oh yes. Bob Fenner, touching on this subject today at a presentation to the
NJRC in Pt. Pleasant, NJ>
Thanks,
Tom
Keeping Peppermint shrimp out of overflow and to sump - 02/16/2006
Good day,
Cant get enough of this website and I am inspired by all of your generosity with
your time and expertise. Outstanding!
I read the peppermint pages on wetwebmedia and did not see this
question. Background: When adding peppermint shrimp to the display, they seem
to find there way to the overflow box and go down the standpipe into the
sump. I want to keep them in the display to combat Aiptasia (until I get my
excess nutrients under control-working on it). On another site, I asked and
someone suggested counted cross-stitch plastic sheets from craft store cut to
size to keep them from the overflow.
<One choice. Some sort of chemically inert screening>
Well, it works great at keeping the peppermints out of the overflow and in the
display, but now an oil slick is on top of the water of the display as the
counted cross-stitch material is apparently keeping the oily stuff from getting
into the overflow and down to the sump to skim, probably due to surface tension.
<Ah, yes... perhaps a larger mesh material>
I live life dangerously only have one overflow on this display by the way.
<Heeee!>
So, the question is: is there a better way to keep the peppermints in a display
and out of the overflow without obstructing the surface oily from draining into
the overflow?
Sean Missey
<The screening/sieving is the easiest approach here. Try something of a bigger
"draw". Bob Fenner>
pH Control - 12/30/2005
Hi,
<Hello.>
Currently the pH in my 55 gallon saltwater is 8.0. Is that too low for a Camel
Shrimp?
<Not ideal, could be acclimated to however. Likely to influence longevity.>
I've read they tolerate 8.1 - 8.3. If this is true what do you suggest to
raise the pH slightly?
<Please read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm
and follow the links above.>
Thanks for the help!
<You're welcome. - Josh>
Ghost Shrimp, marine
I would like to add fresh water ghost shrimp to my tank for algae control and they are neat. All I can find in the stores are salt feeder ghost shrimp. Is
there any way to adapt the salt shrimp to live in fresh water and what is the difference. Thank you
<Can be done... see WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Stressed Trigger or not
Mr. Fenner,
<Brendgol>
When fish get stressed do they lighten up or darken up?
<Many do, yes>
In particular, black Hawaiian triggers?
<Melichthys niger? For sure! This is one of the most fast-changing color/pattern
marines I know of>
Is their normal relaxed color black or is it the lighter green/yellow
look?
<Mmm, hard to say... have seen this species in the tropical West Atlantic and
Hawai'i the most... and are at times apparently "happy" or "excited" and both
light or dark in background color... the highlights though, mainly blues and
golds, seem to be indicative of a positive mental/emotional, physiological
state>
Also, I am treating my show tank with some of Kordon's reef safe Ick
Attack (I know you guys are not big believer's in the reef safe products)
all natural stuff and some Melafix (sp?).
I assume this stuff would not stress a fish out?
<Mmm, am not so sure. Any non-specific poison/medication (which these and almost
all "fish medicines" are) I'd expect to add considerable stress to livestock>
How do I get rid of the Ick for good?
I have dropped the Spec Grav to 1.019
I don't want to go lower because of my cleaner shrimp in the tank
<!>
and I'm
afraid they will die if I lower it further..
Any suggestions?
<Please read over the MANY files of FAQs on Cryptocaryon posted on
www.WetWebMedia.com re your possible avenues here. The shrimp should not be in a
system being treated for parasitic disease... and should NOT be subjected to
altered/lowered spg>
Thank you
Brendgol Majewski
<Study my friend. Bob Fenner>
Iodine Deficiency?
Hi all!
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I have a question about iodine and shrimp! I have a pair of scarlet
cleaners and at their last molt they seemed to have some trouble and one of them
now has crooked antennae and weak joints (they seem to bend just because of his
weight, it's not normal at all) This is the first time their molts
have gone bad and I just recently added new lights so of course the algae is
growing more. So could the growth of the additional algae have soaked
up all the iodine? That's all I could come up with for the problem
because I've had both these shrimp for several months and they've never had
problems.
<Interesting theory; unusual, but I suppose, possible.>
I add calcium twice a week so I don't think they're calcium deficient.
<My easy solution to the possible iodine problem is to test for it. If you do
find it a bit low, you can address the problem with regular water changes (which
will replenish this and other beneficial compounds), or, if absolutely
necessary- with iodine supplements. Remember to test for anything that you
intend to add to the tank, okay?>
And one other thing, some of the house plants I keep are showing necrosis of the
leaf tips because of the fluoride in the city water, could too much fluoride be
causing the shrimps' problems too?
<I really don't know- I suppose that is possible, but I'm leaning towards
your iodine theory>
My LFS suggested buying "Reef Evolutions" Potassium Iodide concentrate
and adding it regularly. will this do the trick if Iodine is the
problem?
<It will, but again- I implore you to test before adding any kind of
supplement to the system>
So many questions! At the very least I can say I've never learned so
much from a hobby as I've learned from keeping saltwater.
<It keeps you on your toes, huh?>
Crazy, confusing, amazing, beautiful stuff.
<Great description of the hobby, huh? Highly accurate, though!>
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate all the time you guys put into helping
out the little people (and their little pets) Have a fantastic week! Rachael
<Well, I'd like to thank the Academy, my agent, the manufacturers of Tropic
Marin...Seriously- we are happy to be here for you. I'm a hobbyist, just like
you. We learn as much as you do every day! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Reef Tank?
What constitutes a reef tank? Do shrimp or live Fiji rock require special
lighting?
<<Hey Kenny, this is part and parcel to the eight bazillion buck question!
A reef tank sufficiently houses all types of organisms found in/on a reef... Or
we could define such by their gear (the specialized lighting and filtration...),
or...
Shrimps don't require special lighting, Fiji rock does (sort of). For practical
purposes (what else is there?) you want enough strength (intensity), quality
(temp. like 5,000 K or higher, CRI 90 or higher) duration 10, 12, more hours per
day... of pleasing (the affective domain) looking illumination... Depending on
size, depth of your system and pocketbook, this can be (once again for our
discussion here) some sort of boosted full spectrum fluorescents, compact
fluorescents or metal halides.... Want more specifics? Need more info. on your
end. Bob Fenner>>
Calcium levels for shrimp
Bob,
Two quick questions:
I have a fish only tank that I want to add some cleaner shrimp to.
Presently my calcium level is too low around 280ppm, pH and dKH are fine at
8.2 and 7 respectively. Do shrimp require the 350-380 calcium levels?
<Hmm, not really... if there is calcareous material available (foods, substrates, rock, decor) the Shrimp can/will derive sufficient calcium from these sources (by ingesting same)>
And if they do does Kalkwasser need to be added through a drip system or can I
carefully add a small amount to the sump every other day while monitoring the pH and alkalinity?
<You could drip, pour in Kalkwasser... while watching it reduce your alkalinity... I wouldn't necessarily do this>
Secondly, I have these small gray creatures about 1/4 of an inch long that
appear to be some sort of crustacean running all around my tank. They seem
to spend most of there time under the gravel but do come out every time I'm
feeding the fish for scraps. They are fairly fast swimmers when they want
to be. They are curved in shape and have many legs. What are these things
and more importantly can they harm the fish?
<Probably species of the Amphipoda... crustaceans that are of more benefit than harm to marine aquarists... I would cherish, rather than try to eliminate them>
Your help is greatly appreciated,
CB
<<As are your queries, Bob Fenner>>
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