Plumbing silicone   1/7/06
Hey crew, <Scott>  
I've recently acquired a ETSS  skimmer and would like to plumb it externally.  The problem I see  is that the sump needs to be drilled and a bulkhead fitting  added.  The wet/dry at this point (still a new tank) is the only  filtration so far.  I don't see a  problem to stop the flow  through the wet/dry for 10 minutes to drill and add a bulkhead.   The problem I see is all of the silicones I have found available need  48 - 72 hours to cure before touching water.  What would your  suggestion be? <Why do you need silicone.  Bulkhead fittings come with a rubber gasket to seal itself to the wet/dry.  As for plumbing the skimmer, plumbers Teflon tape is all that is needed.>   <<RMF suggests using a smear of 100% Silicone instead... on all threads in contact, and the gaskets... easy to remove, make a positive seal, and chemically inert>>
As always thanks for the advice, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Scott

Skimmer "break-in  12/28/05
Dear Crew, <Jimmy>
     Just a question re: skimmer break-in.  I have a 180 FOWLR that used to have 2 TurboFlotor Multi's for skimming.  I recently replaced one of the Multi's with an AquaC EV 180 driven by a mag 7 pump.  It has been almost a week and the EV 180 has yet to produce any skimmate while the remaining TurboFlotor continues to pull about 1/2 cup of light skimmate daily.  I am running ozone thru the TurboFlotor but not the EV 180. The AquaC in adjusted appropriately.  I am told that there may be a "break in" period before the skimmer starts to work.  I have read in WWM that "break in " periods really do not exist.
Do break in periods exist or should I be concerned? <My opinion is a couple days or so to allow the new acrylic to "season" so to speak.  Your ozone is helping to make the flotors more efficient and I'm thinking this is what your seeing.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks Jimmy

Rigging Skimmer, Among Other Problems  12/22/05
Bob, Anthony, you guys are like movie stars to me. I unknowingly bought an autographed copy of Reef Invertebrates, my personal favorite! Bob's Conscientious Marine Aquarist and Eric Borneman's book on corals are also incredibly useful to me, as well as the web site. Thank you.
<AdamC the stunt double here today.  Anthony and Bob do see these replies and will greatly appreciate your very kind words.>
I wanted to get your opinion(s) on my tank's well being and in the process bounce a couple ideas off of you. My only saltwater reef tank is 29 gallons. I have two inches of oolitic aragonite as a substrate and about 30 pounds of live rock. The tank is three months old. I use one 20K 150W Coralife metal halide for lighting. I have a small hang-on filter where I use carbon and phos-pads. I also have two RIO 400 powerheads blowing diagonally across the surface and a Fluval 304 powerhead several inches below them for current. My protein skimmer is a Bak Pak 2 with a micro-bubble remover and a section for biological filter media.
<All sounds great.>
The tank is primarily dedicated to SPS corals. I built two shelves with the live rock like reef flats that have nearly a dozen small frags: Montipora capricornis, digitata and verrucosa (spelling?); pink and green Seriatopora; Turbinaria scroll coral; several Pocillipora and Stylophora species; Hydnophora; and, yes, one red Goniopora.
<Wow!  With good growth rates, these corals could easily turn your aquarium into a 29 gallon block of limestone in a few months!  Seriously though, do beware of space limitations and aggressive interactions.  Most of your corals are weaklings, except for the viciously aggressive Hydnophora.>
I also have several small 2-3 inch clams and a thorny oyster (the T. croceas on the live rock with the SPS's). I feel guilty telling you I have T. gigas and T. derasa. My only softies are two nice Ricordea rocks (one pink, the other green), a small patch of green star polyps and a very small, bright green Sinularia.
<More fast growers!  I see a bigger tank in your future.  Did you ask Santa?!?!?  You will also have to be very diligent in maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels.  I have often joked about actually being able to hear T. Derasa sucking calcium out of the water!  HA!>
My fish include a Conde's Fairy Wrasse, a tiny Salarias segmented and a Yasha Hase goby (paired with a Randall's pistol shrimp). My inverts include a Staghorn crab, a yellow boxer shrimp, a Pom-Pom crab and three Trapezia crabs living in the stonies. My algae eating crew includes five Nerites, five Nassarius, a red Fromia starfish, a tropical abalone and a blue Tuxedo urchin.
<Nassarius and Fromia are decidedly NOT algae eaters.  The Fromia may eat some as it grazes for other more meaty things.>
My water parameters: NH4 0, N02 0, NO3 5-10 ppm, dKH 8-9 degrees, Ca 360 ppm, pH 8.2. Weekly 5 gallon water changes (Oregon tap water's 7.4 pH 1 degree dKH). Feeding frozen Cyclops-eeze, algae wafers. Not using R/O. Other than the giant clams becoming giants and the Goniopora eventually dying, can you predict any eminent disasters?
<Everything sounds OK.  Obviously, overcrowding will be an issue.  As far as the red Goniopora... many have good success with these, and at one time, mine was one of the fastest growing corals I have ever had.>
I have three things bothering me. I have green hair algae. Food for the inverts, fish, vegetable filter, etc; perhaps excess nutrients from inefficient skimming?
<This could be, but this skimmer should be adequate for your tank.  I would strongly suggest adding a few Astrea or Trochus snails or one or two Turbos.  You may also want to check the PO4 of both the tank and your tap water.  This can be a significant problem.>
I read Anthony's article and my skimmer is a hang-on variety. The pump is submerged more than two inches, and the water level varies considerably (1/2" evaporates every other day). The pump pulls air through a tube, as well as water. I don't think it pulls as much air as when I bought it. The pump isn't clogged and no salt creep is blocking air passage. Do you think I could hook up an air pump to aid the skimmer's pump? Would that help?
<I have significantly boosted the efficiency of these skimmers by dropping a wooden airstone into them.  It may be worth a try.>
Also my dKH is 8 and my Ca is 360 ppm. I use "Kent's Calcium Reactor," not a calcium reactor, nor Liquid Calcium (with calcium chloride). It's supposed to raise both simultaneously but doesn't. The numbers are stable but on the low end. Should I leave it as is?
<If you want to raise both, you could simply use more of these products.  I am not familiar with this specific product, but Kent's "Tech-C" as well as ESV's B-Ionic and Two Little Fishies "C-Balance" are all excellent two part additive systems that give excellent control over Ca and Alk.>
Any suggestions on my set-up, equipment needs, compatibility issues, etc. You guys are my only trusted source of reference. Sorry about this email's length; I don't write you guys enough. Take care, Adam Michels
<It sounds like you are generally on the right track.  The only issue of concern is space and possibly PO4 from your tap water. Best regards!  AdamC.>

Skimmer on a Timer - 12/21/2005
Hello WWM crew.
<Hiya Mike!>
This site is awesome, there is so much information on hear that after some time I just can't read anymore.
<Ah yes...The aquatic equivalent of a welder's "Arc Burn".>
I have just begun my 30 gallon reef system about over 2 months ago. This truly is an addicting hobby and definitely hard on the wallet...but so worth it!
<Preaching to the choir my friend!>
The tank is glass, no sump, with a Emperor 280 BioWheel, 28-30 lbs live rock, and two powerheads. The next piece of equipment will be a hang on skimmer which I will be ordering very soon. I couldn't decide between CPR Bak Pak or the Aqua C Remora but after reading some forums out there and a good push from your website, I have decided to go with the Aqua C. The reason why I chose Aqua C is because it seems to be one of the quieter skimmers around and this is important to me because my tank is 5 ft from my bed. My question is if I purchase the Aqua C and the skimmer turns out to be louder than I thought can I put it on a timer and have it skim during the day and off at night?
<It's best to run 24 hrs., waste doesn't take time off:)>
Will the water quality suffer much and would this setup damage or reduce the life of the skimmer?
<Probably not a tremendous difference but Aqua C is a good skimmer and pulls noticeable skimmate every few hours. Most impact would be on the pump life not the skimmer itself. It's not good for them to start and stop continuously. Not loud anyways, scarcely above a whisper. More of a distant, constant, soothing static. I doubt you'll here it at five feet. >
I wouldn't want to damage a $160.00 piece of equipment, I might also want to use it in the future if I decide to upgrade to a 75 gallon.
<I believe the Remora Pro is sized up to 90 or something like that but don't quote me. They are accurate with the size rating however so you can trust what they say the skimmer can effectively handle.>
Thanks for your help
Mike
<Gladly. - Josh>

Protein skimming  12/21/05
Hi Crew, <Hello Jimmy>
Happy Holidays !! <And to you!>  I am currently running two TurboFlotor multis on a
180 G FOWLR.  They are both sump mounted, with two 30" x 12" x 18" ( LxWxH)
sumps under the tank, with ozone injected into both. I really have not had any
problem at all with this setup and the Turboflotors have been relatively easy to
adjust.  One to two cups of nasty skimmate is produced daily.  Tank
inhabitants are doing great.  The addition of the second skimmer has been a great move
for this ecosystem because one TurboFlotor was not enough.
I already have an AquaC EV 180 that I recently pulled off another tank.  
Do you think that it would be worth the difference swapping out one of the
Turboflotors for the EV 180 ? <That choice will be yours to make.  I believe the EV is a little more efficient than the TurboFlotor.  Try it and see if it makes a difference.>
Is a pump required in order to use ozone via the JG fitting for the EV.  <Not familiar what the "JG" fitting is.  Ozone generators are going to require some sort of air pump to push the gas into the skimmer.  If the "JG" fitting is designed to act as a vacuum sucking the gas out of the generator, then it very well may work.  ORP levels would have to be monitored to ensure enough ozone is being fed into the unit.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks Jimmy

Re: protein skimming  12/21/05
James,
Thanks for the response. <You're welcome.> Sorry for the slang....JG fitting is a John
Guest fitting that is used as a "quick disconnect" in RO systems and the like. <Boy, I've been around longer than most trees and I've never heard that one till now.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks  Jimmy

Re: protein skimming  12/21/05
Take a look on AquaC's website and you will see.  I had never heard of this
until recently either !  I have been keeping tanks 35 years. Oh, by the way
something cool happened one week ago in my tank.  Snails looked like they were
having a "mass spawn"  I had never seen this before !  Thanks Jimmy <Jimmy, always reply with the original query, most important.  Do resend in that format.  Thanks.  James (Salty Dog)>
www.proteinskimmer.com

Protein skimmer question
Hi, <Hello Eddie>
I have a Bak Pak 2R skimmer that's producing a lot of bubbles all  the way up
to the collection cup, but it's only collecting a very little skimmate. About
a month ago or so I used an AquaClear 500, that I normally use just to run
carbon, to use with filter pads I had sitting around. I used a  powerhead to
blow the crap from the rock and the substrate around. As I took out  each pad
after each day, I saw it took a lot of crap out with it. But I'm  wondering if it
has to do with my protein skimmer acting up now. I don't know what else it could be. My  system is only
4 month's old. Any  suggestions?  <Eddie, do you clean the skimmer weekly, especially the riser tube?  If not, it should be cleaned on a weekly basis for best efficiency.  Happy Holidays.  James (Salty Dog)>     
Eddie

Seaclone 100...  12/17/05
Hey guys how's everything? I just recently purchased a Seaclone 100 for
my 90 gal. I have the air valve open enough so that the foam is just
below the bottom of the middle tube where the collection cup is. So
basically right where the water flows back into the tank. I was
wondering, is it normal to have so many little micro bubbles coming out
into the tank.
i
<I>
was told its because its a new skimmer. i wasn't sure
if maybe i was letting in too much air or if it is indeed because its a
new skimmer. If am doing it wrong just let me know how much air i
should be letting in and such. i really appreciate the help.
Sam
<... please learn to/use your spelling and grammar checkers, the WWM Google search tool... and read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seacloneskimfaqs.htm
Basically, this product is feeble.... I would trade it in. Bob Fenner>

Some unknown... (infestation of pests or detritivores?) in a protein skimmer.  12/13/05
Hello Guys.
<Hi James!>
I was at a friend's home and noticed the protein skimmer was not generating skimmate material <Woops! Good catch.> so I offered to look at it and clean/service it. <WOW! Come to my house please...> In the process I discovered that the inside of the (Prizm) <Pretty feeble, but can be made to work, and effective in smaller tanks.> filter had small jelly, off-white to translucent (worms, slugs...?) <and/or sponges, cnidarians, tube-worms, who knows...> things that some were flattish, others oblong and round like a hydra, other had yet what may have been pronounced tentacles like a spaghetti worm. I have not seen such things before (I never thought to run my skimmer this way... hose left on the priming barb) and am not certain as to what to even look up on them. <Pretty common to find such detritivore/filter-feeders in skimmers or other filtration systems. It can be like a little refugium.>
Oh, some of the pages on marine diseases are not coming up today as I was trying to look up some of the worm related information. <We'll look into it, thanks.>
My take on this is that these things have made home in the protein skimmer as it had not been cleaned <Ugh.> (in fact it was not generating any skimmate material for quite sometime. <Just circulating water, and acting as a refugium of sorts - which is useful too.> I had noticed the collection cup was dry as a bone and (again, mentioned before) the hose was on the priming barb. <Well, there ya go. No air entering the unit at all.> Sorry, I have no pictures. This was just an offer to do something good for a friend. I wished I would have had gloves on while handling the skimmer. <As long as you didn't have any open wounds, there's probably little to worry about.> I approximate the time left in incorrect operation to be about 1-2 months. Any thoughts or suggestions as to where I should be looking further? <Nothing to worry about.> To me it looked like nothing short of an infestation. <Perhaps, but much of it will die with the skimmer in appropriate order (tiny bubbles destroy sponges.> I would also note that the Prizm design is difficult to get brushes into for removal of detritus and other leftover materials. <Yes, but this is true of many skimmers, due to the need to convolute the water path and trap bubbles.>
Some notes on the tank: regular fish mortality <UGH, that's an awful phrase.> with previous recurring overstocking problems (often times the fish were angels and tangs). Low pH was a factor some weeks ago (not sure now). There was no test kit (testing materials remaining) available so numbers can not be given. Certainly an algae issue; slimy and red... usual from infrequent maintenance <Exactly.> with same algae on/in the sand at tank bottom and all intakes for pumps, skimmers and etc. The tank was running well for more than a year but has been neglected of late since the one room mate whom has been traveling does most of the maintenance. <Well, either ask them to let you have it, or volunteer to take care of it indefinitely... let your conscience decide!>
Sincerely
James Zimmer
Garfield, NJ
<Best regards and Happy Holidays! Lorenzo, Santa Monica CA.>

Overskim  12/5/05
Hi guys,
<Hello Steve> 
Hope all is well with you all! A quick question - I have a 47G reef with AquaC Remora and Eheim 2016 canister filter fitted (the aquarium is only 3 months old btw). However, as canister filters are renowned as 'Nitrate factories' I was debating whether to remove it and/or replace it with a BakPak 2 skimmer (at least I'd have some bio filtration still). IYO
would this be overkill on the skimming front and would you in fact leave the existing filter running for some time longer before removing? 
<Canister filters are only nitrate factories if they are not cleaned/changed weekly. I'd guess most people change/clean them monthly at best. I've been running a canister for a year now and my nitrates are undetectable. No such thing as overskimming in regards to the "overkill" question. If no nutrients are present (unlikely), no skimming occurs. You're present system sounds fine, just be sure to replace the filter pad/floss weekly.> 
I thank you in advance for any help, Steve Morse. 
<You're welcome, James (Salty Dog)> 

Finicky Skimmer Said Five Times Real Fast (Skimmicky Finner)  12/10/05
Dear Madam or Sir:
<Hello, Adam J helping you out today.>
I have another reason to probe your experiences and technical expertise.   This time, my inquiry relates to my Excalibur HV-I hang-on skimmer with a RIO-800 pump. My tank's basics: 
8 months of operation
55 gallons
6-gallon weekly water changes w/ RO water from the local fish store (increased to 10 gallons two weeks ago)
<Good.>
approx 65 lbs of live rock
approx 1" crushed aragonite bottom
1 canister filter
<Be sure to clean this out weekly to avoid debris/detritus accumulation.>
1 small-CPR HOB refugium w/ Chaetomorpha (on a timed, opposite light cycle and a 3" sand bed)
3 powerheads (two aimed at the Chaetomorpha in an attempt to cut down on debris accumulation)
<Mmm, yes when you prune your Chaeto, its a good idea to give it a shake as well and then siphon out the various debris that comes from it.>
salinity 1.0235
pH - 8.1
dKH - 9.0
Ca - 440
temp - between 77 and 78 F
nitrites - 0
nitrates - between 0 and 5 (sometimes it is difficult to tell the shade of yellow, but never to the 5)
<This is acceptable.>
ammonia - between 0 and .25 (again, sometimes difficult to tell the shade of yellow/green)
It is stocked with 4 Chromis, 1 neon goby, 1 flame angel, 2 - 3 peppermint shrimp (I bought 3, but only see 2 at any given time), 1 royal Gramma, and 2 clowns. It also has an assortment of hermit crabs and snails.
My skimmer's production continues to decline. It went from approximately one-quarter inch of dark fluid every 3-4 days two months ago to about one-quarter inch of weak, green tea every 4-5 days. The change roughly corresponds to when I shifted to 10-gallon water changes. 
<Not uncommon for skimmer production to become less as the tank matures but this is a drastic change.>
I've cleaned the skimmer's pump twice within the month, but did not find any obstructions. The pump has clean air intake lines, clean impeller and clear impellers, no problems with the magnet, and what appears to be a strong discharge.
<This pump, the Rio, is not my first choice. If it is acting up on you I would remove it immediately and replace it with a Maxi-jet 900 or 1200.>
Yet, skimmer production keeps falling. Once, a few months ago, a clog in the air inlet line proved to be the problem, but no such luck this time.  I imagined my tank reached a perfect balance, but seeing all the junk that comes from the macroalgae when it's moved cleared that delusion in less time than a commercial break. The Chaetomorpha does not really tumble, and was in the front of the aquarium (where it collected all the uneaten food). That is why I moved it to the top of the tank where
I can aim two powerheads at the mass. 
<This is better the water flow aimed at it will help in keeping this debris out.>
So, I essentially have two questions. First, what should I do to increase the quality (or should that be foulness) of my skimmate?
<I would switch out the pump as I suggested and see how that works, possibly increase the air intake as well (turn it up).>
How should my reaction chamber appear, and how much foam should I have crawling up the sides?
<The chamber should have micro-bubbles in it and the skimmer should be tuned to produce
I've raised and lowered the discharge piping, as far the foam production itself hard to say with venturi skimmers, they are pretty tricky to tweak and then there's the quality of the skimmer itself too. I would just "play" with various levels until you get the skimmate you desire. Then again it could just be the skimmer itself, you may be doing nothing wrong at all.>
but that only seems to change the water level and not foam production. Given my tank's population, I feel that I should have more from the skimmer. Besides, I sometimes see that think layer of film across the top of my tank's water.
<Some powerheads agitating the surface will help with this as well while you are tweaking the skimmer.>
Also, will adding more amphipods help remove the detritus from the macroalgae? 
<They are detritivores.>
Some are enroute to the house, but those are mostly to serve as snacks for the fish during the day. It could be my Chaetomorpha is too dense, but wanted an opinion from you before I start tossing it aside.
<Don't toss it prune it.>
Thank you for all the guidance you've given to me, and all you do for the hobby.
<Welcome, Adam J.>

Finicky Skimmers  12/12/05
Mr. Adam J
<No formalities, necessary, Adam will do.>
- Thank you for your help.  I'll look at the other pumps,
especially as this gives me an excuse to go to the local store on a weekday.
<Ah, you think like me, I'm always looking for an excuse to go LFS hopping.>
Currently, my skimmer takes a suction from, and discharge to, an
extraction box.  If the Maxi-jet 900 or 1200 does not fit in this box,
is it better to run without the box, or to find a pump that fits within the current box?  
<I'm not a fan of prefilters on skimmers, simply because its hard to guarantee that the water level in the box will stay constant. IF the water level drops you could run your pump dry and burn it out...so it is my preference not to use one.>
I do not know if my tweaking helps or hurts, but I
suspect it has little effect.  I walked around Sunday, looking at
Excalibur skimmers in two different stores.  Some seemed to work
better, others not quite as well.  It is difficult to tell "bubble"
quality in the reaction chambers.  Also, some of the skimmers were
hooked to banks of aquariums with a heavier load than mine, and, of course to aid in the capture of fish, no live rock.
<I would get the new pump first adjust the venturi to a normal position (lots of micro-bubbles) give it time to break in and then see how that goes.>
Sincerely yours,
Sam
<Cheers, Adam J.>

Protein skimmer and wet/dry 12/8/05
Outstanding site fellas. I have a 90 Gallon Fish-only w/ wet dry and Mag12. I plan to add a protein skimmer and am leaning towards the AquaC EV-180 or EuroReef based on your recommendations. 
<These are excellent choices of skimmers. Do also consider the ASM G-Series for Euro-reef level performance at a much lower price.>
The question I have is regarding water flow. I understand you strongly suggest that the skimmer should precede the wet dry. My wet dry is gravity fed from the tank - space limited. I could easily add a skimmer (outside the sump - no room inside) and a 2nd pump (inside the sump). That would of course mean that the water is first fed through wet dry then through skimmer. How can I precede the wet dry with a skimmer?
<In an ideal world, surface skimmed water from the tank would be fed directly into the skimmer. In the real world, skimmer design and practical considerations of system design almost always prevent this. Fortunately, it really isn't a big deal. Keep in mind that Aqua-C skimmers can be run externally, ASM cannot and Euro-Reef models must be special ordered for out of sump use.>
I'm assuming I need to gravity feed the wet dry. Ideally one could gravity feed the skimmer and have it gravity feed the wet dry but I don't have that kind of height. Am I out of options with this setup? Maybe a second sump/pump for skimmer - but that would present ramifications with synchronizing the pumps' flow rates.
<Keep it simple! Added complexity leads to more problems and more risk of water on the floor! I would simply run the skimmer externally, fed from a separate pump (pumping from and returning to the wet/dry... minimal flood risk) or choose an in-sump model that will fit.>
Other consideration is to eliminate the wet dry in favor of sump with live rock and/or sand. If I take that approach, any suggestions on fazing out bio balls gradually while avoiding ammonia spikes?
<Now you're talking! If you choose this route, I would suggest cycling the live rock in a separate container (any kind of tub or bin will work). This can be done with the help of your new skimmer. Once the rock is cycled, it can be added to the tank and the bio balls can be removed 25% per week until they are gone. Removing the bioballs should free up enough room to run the skimmer in-sump if you choose.>
If I plumb the skimmer after the wet dry (easiest setup in my case), am I gaining anything with reducing Nitrates? Thank you very much. Tim 
<Skimmers reduce nitrate by removing the organics that eventually get metabolized to nitrate. Unfortunately, this effect is modest. Live rock and/or a deep sand bed in conjunction with a skimmer is really the best ways to deal with nitrate. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/Filtration/Filtration.htm.  Best Regards. AdamC.>

Protein skimmer operation  11/18/05
I've been on the web site reading about protein skimmers & system set up. When you refer to the skimmer needing "raw tank water", what exactly do you mean?
<Mmm, an indication of "where" the skimmer should be placed in a series of operations/modes of filtration. That is, "near the front", with the newest (raw) water... ahead of mechanical, biological filtration>
Is this water that has not gone through a pre-filter, filter sock, etc?
<Mmm, in general, yes... though I do like using these first myself...>
Also, do you know of a good web site to purchase Euro-reef skimmers? Thanks --- Corey
<I'd try the etailers Custom Aquatic, Marine Depot, Dr.s Foster & Smith if you know the model you want. Bob Fenner> 

Mud Question  11/9/05
Hello Crew.
<Steven>
I have been reading up on the "Miracle Mud" and the benefits from utilizing it. I have a 250 gallon FOWLR along with a 50 gallon sump + refugium set up. In the main tank I have ~225 lbs. of Tonga cured live rock, and about 4-6" live fine aragonite deep sand bed. In the refugium I have crushed live rock with Caulerpa and mini compacts running 24hrs/day.
The inhabitants are a medium Orange shoulder tang, medium/large Longnose Butterfly, large Bicolor Rabbitfish, med/large Bicolor angel, small/med. Chevron, 30" Zebra moray, and a medium Chrysurus angel. 
I was thinking of removing the crushed live rock as the substrate in the refugium and replacing it with miracle mud. Could  this mud be used without the Eco System set up, and instead just added to my already existing refugium section of my sump?
<Yes>
If so would there be a problem with taking the Caulerpa off of the crushed rock, removing all of the rock and replacing it with the mud, then add the Caulerpa back on top of the mud?
<Not likely>
Last question: Would this process potentially shock my system by removing the rock/Caulerpa, then adding the mud and Caulerpa back?
<Mmm, there is a possibility of the Caulerpa "not being happy", but taking care to pinch/crush it off the existing rock, rinsing it before returning in/over the mud/refugium should be fine>
I will stay with the skimmer as I tend to be an "over feeder" and don't entirely buy off on the concept of Miracle Mud to the exclusion of a skimmer. 
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Steven 
<I would use both the Mud and a skimmer... Leng Sy is a friend, oh, and the owner/mgr. of EcoSystem Aquarium... and he has relented re his stance on the use of both. I would leave yours "on" continuously, though some folks advocate, use skimming in conjunction with mud filtration on a punctuated basis (with a timer, on/off every few hours). Bob Fenner>

Skimmers  11/8/05
I have a question about some protein skimmers here.  I have had a bit of a lousy ride trying to find one for my 29gal 
FOWLR Tank. Being the novice I am I first went out to buy the SeaClone 100, which would not even adjust.
Then I bought a similar looking unit by Catalina Aquatics. Still no good. Actually fell apart in tank.  
Next I bought the Prizm Skimmer by Red Sea which I thought would be a good choice, slim, quiet better design, that put way too many microbubbles in my tank for over 2 weeks. So now, I still have my Whisper Power filter that came with the kit, only with some Purigen as a nitrate sponge, but I would like something to pull the nutrients out of the water. I change out 5 gallons of water every week, replacing with Nutri-Seawater (Real ocean water). Do I keep that same 
Schedule with a skimmer?? 
<Jon, the Prizm Skimmer is not a bad skimmer for your tank size. Certain additives in the water can cause excess bubbles. I have a Prizm on a 29 mini reef and I have yet to see any bubbles. For skimmers to be efficient, they must be cleaned weekly. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks ! 
<You're welcome> 

Do You Want to Skim it Now, or Skim it Later?  Skim Me Now! Skim Me Now! 11/4/05
I need to know when I should start my protein skimmer. My new tank has been running for a week and the only thing I have going are the lights and power heads. I know I should weight to add life forms 
<Yes.> 
but I need to know what else I should be doing. 
<I prefer to start skimming immediately especially during “the cycle” and most skimmers need a break in time anyway. This “break-in” period can take up to 2 weeks sometimes. As far as more detail in the cycling aspect please search WWM Re: Marine Nitrogen Cycle, Adam J.> 

Skimmer bubbles 11/1/05
Hey guys,
<Mike>
I have built a Beckett style skimmer (similar to Precision Marine's Bullet-2) for my 150 FOWLR and am testing it using regular ole tap water. The bubble size is a little too large for good efficient skimming.
<Yep... will change using "used" marine>
I was wondering if the properties of the tap water, as opposed to salt water, would have anything to do with bubble size. I'm pumping with a Mag 24 and have adjusted the air intake to decrease the size, but I am just not getting that really fine bubble. Would freshwater keep me from getting the proper size and amount of bubbles I need?
<Yes. Bob Fenner>

Cleaned Skimmer Not Working - 10/30/05
Hello... great site!
<<Thanks>>
I have looked for an answer to my question but haven't come across it.
<<OK>>
4 days ago I combined a 70 gal. reef and a 50 gal. reef in a new 130 gal. tank. I probably used 60% old water and 40% new. I have an AquaC-150 that has worked well in the past. I gave it a thorough cleaning with vinegar as it was very dirty and calcified. It skimmed the first night for a couple hours and has done nothing since. I believe the water level is where it should be.
<<Hmm...are you sure? After such a thorough cleaning you may need to raise the water height a bit for a while.>>
There is no obstruction in the nozzle. The sump water level is consistent and the water comes directly from the overflow to the pump but the foam does not build up in the tower.
<<Raise the water height until it does.>>
I am wondering if my cleaning has screwed it up or if the tank move and all the new water have resulted in nothing to skim?
<<Always something to skim. As you surmise, the cleaning has changed some properties in the skimmer...but no worries...make adjustments to get it working properly and keep an eye on it to make more adjustments as necessary as it "ages" again.>>
Like I said, it has been 4 days now and I am confused, especially since I thought there should be some die-off with a move and a small cycle (which is why I would really like the skimmer working). Any insight and recommendation would be appreciated.
<<Adjust and monitor...>>
Troy
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: Cleaned Skimmer Not Working - 10/31/05
Hi, and thanks for your prompt response.
<<Welcome>>
I thought it must be the skimmer as you suggested so I moved my Remora Pro from the other tank I have running onto this new tank since I am concerned about the small cycle I may go through. This old skimmer was working fine on the old tank and now has the same problem in the new tank... no foam buildup. This makes me think it is something with the water in the new system preventing foam buildup. I have tested for all the usual and everything seems fine. Perhaps more telling is the fact that every living thing in the system seems fine, including 4 Crocea clams. Do you have any ideas?
<<Hmm...most any system will produce skimmate with a good skimmer (like the AquaC you have), it is rare that a system would be so devoid of waste products/decomposition as to not produce anything...but that doesn't mean it can't be so.>>
By the way, I used RO water and no chemicals other than salt. I am not really panicking since everything seems fine but I sure am puzzled why the skimmer would not even foam for a few minutes in 5 days. Any more insights are greatly appreciated.
<<Trust your instincts for now, keep the skimmer running and keep an eye on the system. I'd be interested to hear how things progress.>>
Thanks,
Troy
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: Cleaned Skimmer Not Working (Update) - 11/02/05
Hi Eric (my father's name by the way),
<<Hello Troy>>
That's why I like you guys... because you're very knowledgeable.
<<I like the sound of this. <G> >>
The Remora started skimming after 24 hours of "settling in" and so it appears your first assumption, that the cleaning I gave the EV150, was indeed the problem.
<<Heee!...I love it when I get one right!>>
Incidentally, it is still not skimming after 1 week. I emailed AquaC (great service) and it seems the skimmer is functioning properly so it just may take some more time I guess.
<<Hmm...possibly...>>
At least I have another skimmer now working on the system in the meantime. Anyways, I just wanted to give you kudos for helping out and being right in the first place.
Troy
<<The pleasure is mine. EricR>>

Skimmer clarification 10/30/05
Hey guys and girls. I have gotten into an argument with a LFS manager about skimmers, and was hoping you could help clear this up. Well here goes. I know from experience that my skimmer produces 1/2 cup to 1 cup a day of nice skimmate. My bioload is very low I only have 1 hammer coral, 1 torch coral, 2 cleaner shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 1 Protoreaster nodosus, 2 damsels and 1 freckled Hawkfish and still get that amount of skimmate on average for my 125 with 150 lbs of live rock. 
My friend has a 180 gallon with 200lbs of live rock and a huge amount of fish including large Queen angel, 1 Niger trigger, hogfish, anemones, tangs, wrasses and many more.. My friend asked me to look at his skimmer to check for proper function. He only gets maybe 1/2 cup of skimmate in a week. His skimmer is powered by a 1800gph Mag drive pump and his air valve is opened all the way. I told him to tell the pet store guy something is wrong with it and to return the skimmer. 
My friend was told that 1/2 cup of skimmate per week was about right and anything more than that is too much. So. How is that possible? My skimmer is power by a Rio 2500 and gives me great production. Now my friend thinks I don't know what I'm talking about. Can you please settle this matter. I think my skimmer works great. Thank You
<Mmm, will try to make a clear, succinct statement re... Different systems have varying capacities (that change in time) re how much quantity, quality of skimmate they'll produce per any given type/model of skimmer... some systems develop to produce actually very little skimmate period... irregardless of comparatively larger amounts of biota, feeding... The best way of assessing "who is right" here is to add/swap skimmers, pumps and "see what you get". Cheers, Bob Fenner>  

Foamy water & Skimmer on overdrive 10/28/05
I have a 70gal reef tank, established 3 years now. I did a 10 gal. water change yesterday using Red Sea Salt (same brand I always use) my water is very foamy, and my BakPak II skimmer is now going crazy, filling to the top with pretty clear but mildly slimy water every 3 minutes. I unplugged it over night last night (so I could go to bed). All inhabitants seemed to be doing well this morning so I did another 5 gal water change (to flush it out more).
<Good>
Kept it off all day today (while at work) and when I came home the refugium underneath is full of foam just from the sump hose flowing into it. As soon as I plug in the skimmer it fills to overflow with the slimy water. I did not use anything that could have had soap. Do you have any idea? Still the animals seem fine. Carol
<Hmm, some thing/s are either going on in your system (a mass spawning event for instance... by small animals in the substrate...) or someone has poured in some other something that causes mass foaming. In either case, dipping, toweling off the excess foam and the water changes are the route to go here. Bob Fenner>

Where Do I Stick It?  What About Flow?  Skimmer Set-up 10/25/05
Hello! I love your website. I have recently bought an approximately 450 Litre marine tank with a built in trickle filter. I wanted to buy the best skimmer I could get, but Aqua C and EuroReef brands are not available in Australia :(. 
<It is always amazing to me how hard it is for you Aussies to get equipment that we take for granted!>
<<I don't know.. they are on the other side of the earth, surrounded by water and all.  MH>>
So I bought the most expensive one which was an AquaMedic 1000 TurboFlotor. You might find my question trivial but it has been bugging me. The tank is not set up yet and I've been working out where the skimmer will go. It fits (just) in the trickle filter and I plan to put the bioballs and Ehfi substrate underneath the Ocean Runner pump. 
Here is my problem. The direction of water flow through the trickle filter is from left to right (can't be changed). The skimmer seems to be constructed so that it should be placed somewhere where the direction is from right to left because the pump is on the right side and the outflow tubes are left. I was wondering if I do place it in the trickle filter will it just be recycling it's own outflow water? It's really the only good place I can fit it short of putting it smack bang
on the front of the tank! Advice much appreciated. 
<As long as you can operate the skimmer normally (without blocking inlets or outlets), the orientation of the skimmer relative to the water flow will make very little difference in it's performance. Best Regards. AdamC.> 

Skimmer in overflow follow up 10/31/05
Thanks for the reply Adam. My skimmer's outflow tubes are not EXACTLY blocked. They have about 1cm clearance to where the water will be pumped straight onto the back glass of the trickle filter. This is obviously not a good thing-but I think it may be my only option. 
<This is no problem as long as the water level in the skimmer can drop low enough for proper function. Also, if you need more space, I believe that the outflow fittings on this skimmer can be removed, which would give you an extra inch or so of space. Best Regards. AdamC.>

RedOx, skimming  10/21/05
Hello Bob,
I am curious as to why my ORP reading is lower (around 312) when I run my protein skimmer vs. above 400 when not using it?
<Mmm, removal of charged particles, molecules, atoms by the skimmer>
I stumbled upon this discovery when my skimmer pump failed and was out for a month. The ORP reading had been running 300 to 380 over the last year. Then shortly after the skimmer pump went out, ORP reading jumped to around 450. Once skimmer pump was replaced, ORP dropped back to historical levels. I am using a PINPOINT meter. I was under the assumption a protein skimmer increased the oxygen level in water column, which in turn raises the ORP reading.
<Mmm, does "some things" that both raise and lower reduction/oxidation potential>
I have a 90 gallon reef tank utilizing a plenum with a 5 inch sand bed. It is a lightly stocked reef with 5 fish and 60 lbs live rock. Lights on (varying intensities) for a total of 16 hours per day. Skimmer runs for 7 hours during night time. Set-up is 14 months old. Thanks for all your great insight over the years.
Randy
<Welcome, and I would not be (overly)concerned here. Bob Fenner>

Poor Skimmate Production 10/3/05
Hi crew!  My question is in regards to my Bak Pak protein skimmer.  I have well established [10 months] 55g FO setup using a media containing canister filter, uv sterilizer and a Bak Pak skimmer. Fish include a Heniochus butterfly, Percula clown, Longnose hawk, and a Flame angel.  I'm getting little if any skimmate.  I have added an air line with a lime wood to add bubbles.  This produced a dense cloud of microbubbles, but still little skimmate.  I purchased an Aqua Remora hang on skimmer only to be disappointed that it did not fit into my acrylic tank because of the hood of my tank.  Please!!!  Any suggestions to improve the function of my skimmer. <With your stocking level and assuming normal feeding, you should probably half fill the collection cup every few days with the air wood added.  If you are getting less than this, it could be due to something breaking the surface tension of the bubbles.  Possible culprits include oils from your skin, oils from fish food, aerosols used in your home, etc.  You may also consider cleaning the entire skimmer and pump by placing it in a bucket of water with about 1/4 cup per gallon of bleach.  Either run the pump in this solution or disassemble it.  Let it sit overnight in the bleach solution and the next day rinse all with warm water, allow to dry and put it back on the tank.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

UK marines, poor English, laziness in general  10/2/05
aloha again,
thank you very much and I know how to spell the species names but fat
fingers and a lack of coordination don't show this,
<Then use the Net...>
secondly, I have heard
that many Centropyge angels are natural algae grazers and I figured seeing
as my tank would be too small for a tang or Foxface one of these may help to
prevent my Caulerpa from reproducing and spreading uncontrollably.
<No>
and a final note on my choice of skimmer, I am not sure whether you know but
in England there seems to be a large ethos on "under skimming" tanks so as to
preserve plankton populations in circumstances where a refugium would be
impractical,
<Have seen this. I write for a marine magazine there>
I have heard of using a powerful skimmer on a 12 hour cycle but
I fear that the constant switching on and off would damage the impellor and
cause an oxygen imbalance throughout the day.
<Better to have a poor design/engineered one if this under skimming is what you want to achieve... and leave it running continuously>
best regards
<What is it with the "i's?"... lack of capitals... please don't be/appear ignorant... use your grammar and spell-checkers before sending correspondence. Bob Fenner>

Skimming and Rowaphos 10/01/05
Hi WWM crew.
The most valuable web site... I learn & enjoy and thanks to you all. I am setting up a 210 gal FOWLR system in my office with 75 gal refugium under the cabinet. Its been set up and running for 10 weeks. I am trying to reduce any chance of algae problem in the beginning for future and my set up is follows. It has ozonizer and controller that is set to 350 mv and is in working order,  6" DSB in the refugium (36" X 18" X 6" in volume with 9 bags of 30lbs Aragamax
Sugar-Sized Sand). The main display has 1/2" of the same kind of substrate with 175 lbs of live rock. AquaMedic 29" protein skimmer with Mag Drive 5. Iwaki
MD100RLT motor for circulation between refugium and main display. Aqua Medic NitrAte reductor that release 0 nitrate and 0 nitrite after filtration. 3 bags of Chemi pure in the refugium before the return motor. Lighting with 2 XM 15000k 175W metal halide and 4 60" VHO 140w each (2-AquaSun 10000k and 2-Super Actinic 420 nm peak Bulbs). Total of 910 Watts. Turns on 7 hours a day with timers in sequence. I have a little more lighting in case I change to a reef later but not now.  I do not turn on  metal halide bulbs at this time. I only have one 12" Golden Moray Eel that I added 3 weeks ago and feeding is done twice a  week as you recommend and doing very fine. I filled the system with RO/DI water from the start. Water test are done daily with Salifert test kits.  Ammonia 0 ppm,  Nitrite 0 ppm, KH 9.6 dKH, Ph 8.2, Nitrate 10 ppm, Silicate 3 ppm, Phosphate 1.5 ppm, Temperature 80 F., ORP 350 mv with 24 hours
monitor & controlled with ozonizer. I was worried about the nitrate, phosphate, and silicate test reading and I read about Rowaphos PO4 & Si02 Absorber on the website and I added 700 ml of them in Fluval 404 Canister filter with 2 sheet of Poly Filter that cut in small pieces with 1 qt of E.S.V. Granular Activated Carbon. I used a cut to fit filter pads in
between them to have maximum water contact time for the materials. They recommend to run the filter for 24/7 for maximum removal of unwanted algae problem caused by phosphate and silicate from the beginning. The skimmer removed at least 1.5 to 2.0 cups of waste every day and the water was crystal clear. Now here is the problem. After I installed and run this Fluval 404
Canister filter with all of the filtering things inside my skimmer produced a small amount of black waste and stopped producing anything for 2 weeks . The
water is cloudy now. The Nitrate level is still around 10 ppm, phosphate dropped to 0.4ppm, silicate dropped to .05 ppm after the canister filter ran for 3 days. I turned  off the canister filter, adjusted the skimmer,
vacuumed the substrate, performed a 20% water change, turned off the ozonizer, adjusted lighting time more and less, but still no skimming. My knowledge is ran out of idea and I could not find related FAQ's on your web site about this problem I have.
Please HELP me and Thank You in advance.<<Rowaphos is effective at removing phosphate and silicate from water. Phosphate contributes to algae growth while silica contributes to diatom blooms. A properly functioning skimmer removes organic waste from the water. These are two different things. From your description, it sounds like the Rowaphos was working in that the phosphate
and silicate levels were dropping. Removing phosphate and silicate is not removing protein waste. While the tank rock is cycling, the skimmate production will be higher. After cycling, fluctuations in production will be related to the amount of waste available. This is a function of the number of fish in the system and the amount of food you are introducing. Ozone will also affect skimmate production and generally enhances the skimmer performance. If the skimmer production diminished it could be because the skimmer needs adjustment or it might be because there is not a lot of waste to remove. A lack of waste could be caused by a combination of things including: the system has completed the initial cycle, you have a large water volume with only one eel and you have stopped the ozone. Additionally, Chemi-Pure removes waste. The cloudy water could be caused by a bacterial bloom, sediment in the water column or micro bubbles. Sediment will settle out and a filter sock will help. If it's micro bubbles, you will need to find the source of the bubbles. If the cloudy water us related to a bloom of some kind, fixing and increasing the skimmate production will help clear it. At this point, I would check the skimmer adjustment, continue with the water changes and monitor the system. Good luck - Ted>>

Skimmer Experiment - 09/29/05
Guys (and gals! I was corrected on that one last time ;) )
<<Tis good to learn from one's mistakes <G> >>
While waiting for the new Tunze 9002 to be available for my reef aquarium (actually plan to use 2), I thought I would experiment with the Clear-For-Life skimmer that came with my Uniquarium.  It produces skimmate daily, but it's very watery.  You can adjust it till you're blue in the face, but all you'll get is mediocre skimmate.
<<Generally a function of mediocre design.>>
So, I thought I would try replacing the stock Rio 600 RVT with a Maxi-Jet 1200 with venturi option.  Its only been running for about 14 hours, but the Maxi-Jet, while producing very fine bubbles, produces NO skimmate in this skimmer.
<<I'll refer you back to your "adjust till you're blue in the face" comment.>>
It seems in looking at it, that the total amount of bubbles at the top of the skimmer is less than with the Rio.  No bubbles are escaping the skimmer, so I expected more.  Is this because of increased water flow on the 1200 without significantly increased airflow as compared to the 600?
<<Likely just the opposite.  The Maxi-Jet is probably producing more air volume with the venture than it is producing water volume/flow...thus the water height in the skimmer body is too "low" to allow the foam to make the journey to the skimmer cup.  Unless you have some way to raise the water height in the skimmer body (possible by restricting the outflow), or can reduce the air intake (defeats the purpose of the venturi), or can add a second variable-flow pump... Getting the picture?  Poor function by design,>>
Or am I just being impatient?
<<Some skimmers can take a bit to get back to where they were before a cleaning...don't think that's the issue here though.>>
From all I've read on WWM and on the Internet in general, I expected better production using the 1200, even on this sub-standard skimmer.
<<I am doubtful it is the powerhead's fault.>>
Sidebar question <<we charge more for these <grin> >>; space considerations are driving me to the decision to use 2 Tunze 9002s in the filter chambers of my 50G Uniquarium.
<<Shouldn't be a problem...>>
Aquarium is mixed LPS/Soft Coral with a significant amount of live rock and 1-2" sand bed.  The 9002 is rated for 52G.  Does that mean a 52g TANK or 52g of WATER?
<<I would take this measurement as total volume, regardless.  Best to over estimate than under estimate.>>
Do (2) 9002s sound reasonable?
<<Sure, won't hurt anything in my estimation, though probably not necessary on this tank...Tunze skimmers enjoy a pretty good reputation.  Regards, EricR>>
TJ

Re Skimmer Experiment  10/1/05
Thanks Eric.  You were 100% correct in the fact that adding the venturi to the 1200 restricts water flow.
<<Ah!... nice to know I get some things right <G>.>>
I did a little experiment in a tub of water and the venturi device not only restricts water flow tremendously, but it causes some pulsation as well.
<<Yes, to be expected...mismatch between air input and water flow.>>
I actually found a way to make it work, but poor skimmer design is poor skimmer design, so the skimmer is going anyway.....
<<Agreed my friend>>
For interest, this is what I did; If you take the 1200 venturi device, and look at it from the bottom, there is a hole in the center that the airline connects to and 4 slotted ports around that for water flow.  I took a small rotary file and increased the size of the water-flow holes.  That increased both water flow and airflow, smoothed out the pulses, and improved bubble production by at least 100%.
<<excellent>>
Of course the skimmer is still balking at producing much, BUT I've sure got a lot of tiny bubbles now.
<<I guess we're back to the design...>>
Lawrence Welk would be proud, skimmer on way to trash......
<< <grin> >>
Thanks for the advice on The TUNZES.
TJ
<<Most welcome my friend... EricR>>

Source Water and Protein Skimmers  9/26/05
James:
Thank you for the response.  I've run tests against
source water and no problems with it.  I do not use
any additives that activate the skimmer.
Do some additives stay in solution unless removed? <Yes>
The food is almost always consumed completely by the
tank inhabitants.  I've added a PolyFilter in the
overflow and Pura filter pads to the wet dry.
Yet, when I do a water change, and when I pour the
water into the bucket,<Is this old water from tank or new water?> it is really foamy (and the
bubbles stay in tact for quite a bit of time).  I've
implemented (last week) a regimen now of 4 gallons
water change every other day.  For now, I'm not using
the RO unit due to the production time and my personal
schedule (it is being used for the small reef though).
Moreover, I've been doing 10% water changes every
other day on the reef tank, however the bubble problem occurs there as well.
Is there anything I can add (chemically or physically)
to remove whatever bacteria or item that is causing
the excessive foaming? <Matt, did you get a hardness reading?  If you pour water from your tap  into a pail, does it foam also?  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
--matt

Re: Source Water and Protein Skimmers  9/26/05
> James:
> Thank you for the response.  I've run tests against
> source water and no problems with it.  I do not use
> any additives that activate the skimmer.
> Do some additives stay in solution unless removed?
> <Yes>
--MATT--
I know that aloe Vera is a big foaming source and
added it when I was first building the tank (Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals Stress Coat).  I know longer use this
product and now I use a skimmer friendly additive
(Seachem Prime or Marine Bio Coat).  Other than that,
I've added Kent Trace Elements.
--MATT--
> The food is almost always consumed completely by the
> tank inhabitants.  I've added a PolyFilter in the
> overflow and Pura filter pads to the wet dry.
> Yet, when I do a water change, and when I pour the
> water into the bucket,<Is this old water from tank
> or new water?>
--MATT--
This is the old water.
--MATT--
it is really foamy (and the
> bubbles stay in tact for quite a bit of time).  I've
> implemented (last week) a regimen now of 4 gallons
> water change every other day.  For now, I'm not
> using
> the RO unit due to the production time and my
> personal
> schedule (it is being used for the small reef
> though).
> Moreover, I've been doing 10% water changes every
> other day on the reef tank, however the bubble
> problem
> occurs there as well.
> Is there anything I can add (chemically or
> physically)
> to remove whatever bacteria or item that is causing
> the excessive foaming? <Matt, did you get a hardness
> reading?  If you pour water from your tap  into a
> pail, does it foam also?  James (Salty Dog)>
--MATT--
I noticed that there is Nitrate in my tap water.
Source water reads about 150ppm on the hardness (lake
Michigan water).  Alkalinity looks good, ph is solid.
My tap water does not foam. <Matt, I've come to the conclusion that the additives you are using is remaining in solution (Bio Coat) and causing your foaming problems.  The Bio Coat will cling to everything else in the tank along with the fish.  No danger at all in using the product of course, but I've always been a believer of "if it works, don't fix it". When quarantining a fish, administer the Bio Coat in the QT if you prefer to use it. I've been in the hobby 30+ years and recall only using a similar product twice, and discontinued after experiencing the same problem you are describing.  Regular water changes should dilute this enough to eliminate the foaming provided you discontinue the use of the product in the main display.  James (Salty Dog)>
--MATT--