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FAQs on Parrot, Jelly-Bean... Cichlids, Disease/Health 4

FAQs on Parrot Disease: Parrot Cichlid Health 1, Parrot Cichlid Disease 2, Parrot Cichlid Disease 3, Parrot Cichlid Disease 5, Parrot Cichlid Disease 6, Parrot Cichlid Disease 7, Parrot Cichlid Disease 8,
FAQs on Parrot Cichlid Disease by Category: Diagnosis, Environmental, Nutritional (e.g. HLLE), Social, Infectious (Virus, Bacterial, Fungal), Parasitic (Ich, Velvet...), Genetic, Treatments,

Related Articles: Blood Parrots & Flowerhorn Cichlids: maintenance and healthcare of two popular hybrid cichlids by Neale Monks, Neotropical Cichlids, African Cichlids, Dwarf South American Cichlids, Cichlid Fishes in General

Related FAQs: Parrot Cichlid Identification, Parrot Cichlid Behavior, Parrot Cichlid Compatibility, Parrot Cichlid Selection, Parrot Cichlid Systems, Parrot Cichlid Feeding, Parrot Cichlid Reproduction,


Not sure if my hybrid BP is sick :(   2/9/16     /RMF
Hello I have read like every section of WWM and I'm convinced its the best site out there to help people with their aquatic pets,(I'm a big fan), would also like to donate to the site as it has helped me a lot!
I'd be great full on info on how to do that but most importantly my Blood Parrot Cichlid has umm developed a bit of raised scales on his body but does not have a big belly/abdomen (I was thinking (from research on your site maybe dropsy?)
<Perhaps. Raised scales can occur from other causes... aspects of (poor) water quality like high Nitrate, physical damage...>
but is eating and pooping fine I think (his house/cave always has poop in there) and most important for you to know is I have had him for about 6 weeks give or take a few days-his tank is a 90 gal with a double bio wheel waterfall filter and a 125gal HOB aqua clear filter with a power head for surface movement and fun for my wet pets too, as well as 2 bubble bars
-he is 5-6 inches long from nose to tail,(when he was introduced about 5-6 weeks ago the tank had been cycled for about 6 months
-tank mates are 4 clown loaches
<Oh! Quite sensitive to dire and change-able water chemistry...>
(2 inches each and will be going to a bigger tank shortly as they are rescues) a 6 inch sailfin Pleco and a 2.3-3inch little blood parrot (who has the sweetest personality) he still is grey with black stripes but is so parrot (can't close his triangle mouth and his beak head)
-we do 15% water changes twice weekly on all our tanks(I'm a stickler for water cleanliness) -ammonia 0, nitrites 0 ,nitrates 10 ,and PH 7.4 I'd like to send a pic or video, I'm on my iPhone ,how can I do that for you and please let me know if you need any more info, thank you and you have no idea the difference your all making.
Sara Sidwell
<Well; your water seems fine... I suspect that trauma of some sort is at play here; likely a "bump in the night" with some object. I would do nothing treatment-wise at this point, but remain vigilant in observing this hybrid cichlid. Should other symptoms appear, please take a well-resolved (still) image and re-write us. Bob Fenner>

Not sure if my hybrid BP is sick :(      /Neale        2/11/16
Hello I have read like every section of WWM and I'm convinced its the best site out there to help people with their aquatic pets,(I'm a big fan), would also like to donate to the site as it has helped me a lot!
<Thanks for the kind words.>
I'd be great full on info on how to do that but most importantly my Blood Parrot Cichlid has umm developed a bit of raised scales on his body but does not have a big belly/abdomen (I was thinking (from research on your site maybe dropsy?) but is eating and pooping fine I think (his house/cave always has poop in there) and most important for you to know is I have had him for about 6 weeks give or take a few days
<Important indeed!>
-his tank is a 90 gal with a double bio wheel waterfall filter and a 125gal HOB aqua clear filter with a power head for surface movement and fun for my wet pets too, as well as 2 bubble bars -he is 5-6 inches long from nose to tail,(when he was introduced about 5-6 weeks ago the tank had been cycled for about 6 months -tank mates are 4 clown loaches (2 inches each and will be going to a bigger tank shortly as they are rescues) a 6 inch sailfin Pleco
<Not good companions for cichlids that can't look after themselves... such as deformed fish like Blood Parrots. The problem is Plecs are boisterous and greedy, plus they have a tendency to "latch" onto weak fish to graze at the mucous. Because this happens at night, it's easy to miss except for the fact the cichlid is stressed and has damage on the flanks, such as missing
scales or red blisters. Isolating the Plec may help turn things around.>
and a 2.3-3inch little blood parrot (who has the sweetest personality) he still is grey with black stripes but is so parrot (can't close his triangle mouth and his beak head)
<Hmm... odd deformity, but provided he can feed, not lethal.
-we do 15% water changes twice weekly on all our tanks(I'm a stickler for water cleanliness) -ammonia 0, nitrites 0 ,nitrates 10 ,and PH 7.4 I'd like to send a pic or video, I'm on my iPhone ,how can I do that for you and please let me know if you need any more info, thank you and you have no idea the difference your all making.
<I would have you do some reading first:
How to use Epsom salt, which I'd do right now if you suspect slight bloating; also here:
If things get worse; and finally, here:
This medication is a very useful treatment for all manner of mysterious cichlid ailments. Cheers, Neale.>

blood parrot; one okay, one not so      9/26/15
Hi I have 2 blood parrots. They are in a 60 gallon heated at 81 degrees. The water parameters are perfect.
<Need values; not subjective evaluations>
But the larger of the two looks like it has gotten its tail dirty. Black marks. Could he have burned himself on the thermometer?
Or is he sick? He/she doesn’t act sick at all. Eating like a pig just as friendly as always.
I am worried I would hate to lose them.
Thank you Danielle
<Most likely beat by the other one if only the one is mal-affected; I'd separate for a few weeks. Bob Fenner>

Blood parrot cichlid
Blood Parrot Cichlid Injury      12/29/14

Hello, sorry to bother you but I have an opinion question for you. I have had a blood parrot for over 2 years and as we all know they grow pretty big. Well I had a fish tank emergency and Scarlet (fish) had to be moved to a new tank in a hurry. I was a little worried earlier about how to move her with a net because of her size. Long story short in the emergency my
boyfriend was not thinking and used the net to move her (I suggested a large plastic bag that could hold water) but he panicked and used what ever would work the fastest (the tank was draining rapidly). When I looked at Scarlet later I noticed something quite unpleasant. One of her gills has the filament stuff coming out. Like a whole row that looks like feathers!
At first she was pale and stuff but now acts normal other than exaggerated breathing. She still has the injury. I was wondering what I should do in the future and if there is anything I can do to help (?) her get back to normal? Please and thanks!
< To prevent future problems I would recommend having a suitable net on hand for proper handling. Apparently some of the fabric from the net caught a gill raker and has ripped it out of the gill slit. Oxygen in the water moves over the gill rakers and allows the fish to absorb oxygen from the water. Losing a portion of the gill is like you losing part of your lung.
It makes for difficult breathing. I would recommend keeping the tank well aerated I would watch for fungus or bacterial infections to the damaged gills and treat if needed.-Chuck>
Re: Blood parrot cichlid       12/31/14

Blood Parrot Injury II
Thanks :) Will the injury get better/ will the raker fall out?
< Depends on the severity of the injury. It could fall off eventually.>
And is there such a thing as water that is too aerated?
< Water will have a certain oxygen carrying capacity. This depends on the temperature and a couple other factors but generally you cannot over aerate a tank.>
I have a 120 gallon bubbler in a 60 gallon tank but it is not turned up to full capacity- I have always been worried about the water oxygen level.
< Watch the injured fish for signs of stress like heavy breathing or hanging out near the surface gasping for air. If the fish is acting normal then just watch for a bacterial infection or fungus.-Chuck>
Thanks again!

Sick blood parrots      11/18/14
My 3 blood parrots seem to be lethargic laying on the bottom or staying in their hiding places unless being fed. One of them is actually changing colors from light orange to almost white on his body. Water is good other than a slight raised nitrate. I added an algae eater several weeks ago.
They do not have white spots like an ich infection. Water ranges from 78-80 degrees. Any ideas?
<Without some meaningful statistics it's hard to say anything useful. Blood Parrots do sometimes fade in colour for no apparent reason. But if they go lethargic as well, review the environment. I would check nitrite (must be
zero) and pH (7-8) first of all. I'd lower the temperature to 25 C/77 F, and also increase water circulation to maximise oxygen concentration. I'd check the water flow rate is good, rinsing filter media gently if necessary. Adding a second filter is rarely a bad idea when fish look "off colour" as it improves oxygen levels and reduces the risk of water quality problems. I'd also have you reading:
Nothing improves animal healthcare like knowledge. It's the silver bullet.
Look for what you're not doing right, and chances are, that's the problem.
As a side note, Plecs aren't always good companions for large cichlids, and Gyrinocheilus aymonieri very often not, if they harass the fish, "latch on" to graze on mucous, or simply make the filter work twice as hard. Cheers,

Sick Parrot Fish with big red bag hanging... do data       5/14/14
My baby parrot fish Fofo whom is like 9 years old is totally swollen on his face, like a white huge bag from mouth to eyes.
<?! Strange>
Looks like liquid
inside. First I just thought he was pale like happens sometimes, but it is only on his "nose" and now he is swimming upside down inside his "car" and Fifi seems to be guarding him outside. When Oscar died, they
both guarded him at his last moments (Sandy, no electricity). He has always been a friendly little fish, so I feel so bad for him.
Thank you for your help before. My fish Fifi did not recover. She is still alive,
<? Didn't survive, but is still alive?>>
I feed her less and she seems ok most of the time, but bag is still there. Probably did Epson <Epsom> and peas to<o> late. I hope I can save
little Fofo now. Anything I can do? It kills me to see him in this pain.
<Let's have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FHParrotDisArtNeale.htm
and the linked files above. We need similar data... on the system, water quality, foods/feeding.... to help you.
Bob Fenner>
Fish Fofo - Gina M (Batman's mom).... Parrot cichlid hlth.       5/15/14

<We have a practical limit on file sizes (stated on how to write us). Yours has been deleted. B>
re: Sick parrot fish Fifi and Fofo      5/15/14

Hi Bob,
Thank you for your response and link. I will try to get Metronidazole and Nitrofurazone.
<... what for?>

I put Erythromycin in the water yesterday as that was recommended at the petstore. Fofo was having severe breathing problems and his mouth was swollen too. I think he was stuck in the window of his car. My son got him loose. He looks less swollen now, but is lying on his side and looks almost dead. When I talk to him, he "opens" his eyes and looks at me, and did even get up for me, sweet little thing, to fall back down again. He is very skinny. He always has had problems eating contrary to Fifi. He tries to take the food, but it floats away and he does not get it easily.
Fifi did survive, she is still here, but did not recover. Red bag is still hanging out there, but she seems fine besides that. Tank is 60 gallons and I cannot afford a bigger one. Fifi and Fofo live there together. At PetSmart they never told me that this fish were aggressive when I bought them together with GOLDFISH to my 4 year old son.
<Goldfish are very commonly vectors ("carriers") of disease spreadable to other fishes>
Needless to say, the goldfish are gone. Neither that they should live alone. I would give them away to a good home, but how do I know that it is a good home and not someone hurting them?
<... by investigating re the animal/s needs... READING>
I change 75% of their water every month, but maybe I should start with 25% every week. I give them peas once in a while, but have never given them spinach.
I will take a water sample now to the Petstore and see what they say. I feed them Cichlid Gold mini pellets so Fofo has a chance of eating.
Sending pictures too of him yesterday in separate mail.
<Need to be reduced in size by an order of magnitude. BobF>

Blood Parrot Cichlid trouble       1/1/14
<Hello Marie,>
I have two blood parrot cichlids that are 6yrs. old in a 75 gallon tank with a 110 gallon Fluval filter
<Which filter is this? Do understand the Fluval 110 is rated for a 110 *litre* aquarium, or about 30 US gallons. The biggest of their classic canister filters, the Fluval 405, is rated for 100 US gallons, while the huge Fluval FX5 is rated for 400 gallons. The Fluval C4 is the biggest of their hang-on-the-back filters, and it's rated for up to 70 gallons (but do see my notes below about these ratings as they're misleading in many situations, applying only to tanks lightly stocked with small fish, and the bigger the fish and/or the higher the stocking density, the smaller the aquarium these filters would be useful for).>
and do regular water changes, change the carbon and all one at a time to avoid erasing all the good bacteria. This fish has been getting sick on and off since I got her but it was never anything too serious, just that she would get really pale but she always bounced back. I recently moved and she began to lose balance after water changes starting about 3 months ago (moved around 9 months ago). Each time this happened I would try to get her to eat thawed, shelled peas, but she wouldn't go near them so I changed her food from cichlid pellets and peas to . Each time it got so bad that I had to give her a salt bath and it worked very well, except for this last time because she never got her balance back. It has been almost three weeks and I am feeling really bad for her, the other cichlid however, is in seemingly great health.
The only symptoms are loss of balance, slightly swollen belly, what looks like a curved spine, and just today I noticed a sore on her underside near her bottom. I am assuming that she has to be eating something even though during feeding time she can never make it to the surface. I tried soaking the food in water and mixing it with peas, hand feeding it to her, etc. but I have not seen her actually ingest any.
<Indeed. These symptoms all sounds fairly generic. So rather than a particular disease, the combination of symptoms (like swelling and poor balance) suggest some sort of chronic stress. The curved spine *might* be genetic (these cichlids being very inbred) but it could also be a sign of environmental stress and/or poor diet.
Ulcers are sometimes associated with particular diseases, but more often than not they're an opportunistic bacterial infection brought about by environmental stress alongside physical damage. In any case, I would certainly be looking at the aquarium to find out if there's something wrong with how it was set up and/or maintained.>
First I tried treating for Ich because I had noticed a few white spots on her belly, after not seeing any recovery signs, I did a 50% water change and waited a day. Then I treated with Maracyn Two and CopperSafe, which seemed to make it even worse.
<Indeed; copper-based medications are poisons, and while they can be used with success, they sometimes harm any "patients" already stressed in some way. Maracyn should be safe though. With all medications, remember to remove carbon from the filer before use, otherwise the medication will be removed before doing anything useful.>
With no luck I asked PetSmart for help.
<Not always the best place, though this depends, and some "big box" pet store employees are excellent. By default, listen to them, but verify independently, e.g., by looking at an aquarium book. Better information will come from aquarium fish clubs -- many cities and states in the US for example have them.>
They suggested Marimo moss balls and something called Nitrazorb.
<Neither relevant here, though lowering nitrate is always a good idea in cichlid aquaria.>
I removed the Nitrazorb b/c it didn't work and left the moss balls in the tank. I noticed that my Ph was a very acidic 6.0, so I tried raising it with no luck. Not knowing it was a terrible thing, I then read baking soda was a good way to raise Ph and when I checked it afterward, it has zoomed all the way to past a 7.6. Two nights ago I finally got it within their range at 7.2 and ever since it has been stable. I had never tested for nitrites or nitrates because I never had any problems but after those medicines didn't work I went and bought kits for Nitrate, nitrite and anything else I could find. Here is what the results said:
from 12/16/13
General Hardness: 180GH (10dph?)
Carbonate hardness: 80
Ph: 6.0

No2: 0.5
<This is your problem.
Do also check ammonia, it likely isn't zero. In any case, a non-zero nitrite level indicates filtration isn't adequate for the size/number of fish and/or you are overfeeding. Review, and act
No3: 80 (I bought Nitrazorb to try and fix this)
<Nitrate should be 20 mg/l
or less for cichlid tanks, and certainly not more than 40 mg/l if at all possible. Substantial water changes will help here. Large cichlids are generally too big and messy for nitrate-removing media (like Nitrazorb) to be economical. On the other hand, floating plants under bright light, such as the classic Indian Fern (Ceratopteris thalictroides) can be useful as well as cheap. If you have enough light, the plants will grow so fast you'll be cropping them every week or two, removing substantial amounts of nitrate in the process.>
I tried ammonia remover in case it was ammonia poisoning. The next day I bought an ammonia kit, and from  12/16 until today (12/31) the water has tested at 0-.25. If it goes beyond zero, I add the ammonia remover.
<Again, not economical in the long term. Ammonia and nitrite are fixed by better filtration. Nitrate is fixed by water changes.>
I also tested my tap water before treating it
General Hardness: 30
Carbonate Hardness: 40
Ph: b/w 6.0 and 6.5
Nitrite: 0-0.5
Nitrate: 20
<This water sounds pretty good, except it's far too soft for Central American cichlids.>
I ran out of test strips and did not get any more because although the tests showed that my nitrates were way high, I couldn't find any info other than water changes on how to lower them. Before the test, I had already done three 25% water changes that week and I didn't think it was a good idea to keep going with it because I didn't want to mess with the cycle. My last ditch effort was to treat with KanaPlex, which I have had success with in similar situations with this cichlid, but that also failed to yield any results.
<At this point it sounds like you're throwing money away. 99% of fish problems are environmental, and if you find nitrite and/or ammonia aren't zero, then the thing to look at is the FILTER. Sounds to me like the tank is under-filtered. Ignore the "aquarium size" ratings for filters when it comes to cichlids. Those ratings assume best-case scenarios, i.e., community tanks stocked with small fish like Neons and Guppies. A Neon tetra is what, maybe an inch long. A Blood Parrot is nearer 8 inches long when full grown. So do you think a Blood Parrot needs 8 times more filtration? Nope! A Blood Parrot 8 inches long will actually have something like 512 times the mass of a Neon because it might be 8 times longer but will be 8 x 8 x 8 times the volume. In reality it doesn't work quite like this, but clearly a Blood Parrot makes A LOT more mess than a Neon, and you can see that just by the amount of food that goes into the Blood Parrot and the amount of muck that comes out! In real terms, with big fish you want a filter rated at 6-8 times the volume of the tank per hour, which for a 75-gallon tank means up to 8 x 75 = 600 gallons/hour. To give you some context to that, the Fluval C4 has a turnover of 264 gallons/hour, while the Fluval 405 is rated at 340 gallons/hour. Realistically, a tank like yours would need two large canister filters (such as two Fluval 405 filters) or equivalent-sized hang-on-the-back or internal filters. Before you ask, no, I don't know why the fish have been fine for X years but only now got sick. Often, that's the way these things work, same reasons people don't get sick immediately they're exposed to something, but may take months or years to develop and finally "push them over the line" from healthiness into sickness. But old aquaria do tend to have problems of their own, particularly as filters age and media needs replacing (but hasn't been) and fish get bigger (and messier) while also become more sensitive as they get older.>
I finally decided to e-mail you because this fish means a lot to me and the other fish that I have is obviously worried about her too. I know that you may not be able to give me any answers but my real question is whether or not I should put her down, and if so what is the most humane way? She is fighting so hard that I would do anything to help chance of her survival, but I get the feeling she is in a lot of pain and if there isn't a chance I also don't think for her sake, that I can watch this play out either.
<A vet-approved and humane method of killing uses aquarium water in a container into which is mixed 30 drops of clove oil ("Eugenol", cheap, from drugstores) per litre of water. Stir well, then immerse the fish and hold it down with a net. The fish will become sedated quickly, and should be dead within a few minutes. I like to leave fish in the dark while doing this to reduce stress (a towel over the bucket works nicely). Good idea is to leave the fish for 20-30 minutes to make sure it's dead before doing anything to the body.>
Sorry that there is so much info being thrown at you all at once but any advice you can give will help and thank you for your time.
<Let me direct you to two relevant articles:
Likely fixing things (or at least preventing further losses) will come down to [a] more filtration plus more water changes, and [b] improving water chemistry, for example by using the Rift Valley salt mix at 50% the quoted dose to all additions of new water to the tank (don't try and "improve" water chemistry in one fell swoop as that'll simply make the fish even more stress.>
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Blood Parrot Cichlid trouble     1/4/14
Thank you such much for all of the info you gave.
I did remove my carbon for all of the medicines.
I think I gave you the wrong filter information before.
I am unsure if it is right or not but I was under the impression that Fluval bought out aqua clear.
<Are both distributed by the same parent company, Hagen.>
I bought my filter an few years ago and it is actually called "AquaClear 110"
<This filter has a flow rate of 500 gallons/hour. Since your tank has a capacity of 75 gallons, that's 500/75 = 6.6 times the volume of the tank per hour. I'd suggest that is a bit low for a big, messy cichlid, though perfectly adequate for small fish like Neons and Guppies.>
but when I could no longer find the AquaClear inserts, or anything AquaClear for that matter, I assumed that they were bought out.
<Aquaclear filters are still available, and replacement media sold as well.
Took me no time at all to find on Amazon.com for example.>
Since I stopped seeing AquaClear everywhere I started buying Fluval the 110 carbon, ammonia, and all from Fluval.
<I would recommend getting filter media design for a specific filter.
Potentially, the wrong size/shape filter media allows water to flow through any empty spaces without going through the media itself. That means the bacteria don't clean that portion of the water flow. Obviously that diminishes the effectiveness of the filter. To be fair, with an unpressurised filter like a hang-on-the-back filter this effect is probably not that great because of the way water sluices into the top of the filter and down through the filter bed. But if you have a filter, you may as well aim to get the best from it.>
I can imagine this is what has been causing the issues in the tank.
<I disagree, and don't believe that this is the main problem.>
I do agree with you on getting a second filter, sounds like a good idea, but I was wondering if u know what brand inserts are equivalent to the AquaClear ones that i used to buy?
<See above.>
This way I can avoid having to buy two new filters.
<Not sure I understand. What you want is a second filter alongside the existing one. Even a simple internal canister such as the Eheim Powerline Internal Filter 2048 ($65 on Amazon) would actually be well worthwhile. I like the Eheim filters because they are extremely reliable and Eheim keep selling similar models for years, decades at a time! So spare filter inserts are easy to get (and in case, the sponges are good quality and last 10-20 years without problems). Fluval and Aquaclear are typical second-tier made-in-China brands when it comes to reliability, and while I'd happily use either if money was tight, the German brand is definitely better -- quieter and more reliable -- so well worth the premium price.>
Also I attached some photos just in case you see something I don't.
<Looks a nice tank to me, so nothing obviously amiss.>
I read up on those links you gave and it sounds like a Hexamita infection to me,
<Hexamita infections usually have a very obvious symptom: white, stringy faeces being extremely indicative of the gut parasites irritating the large intestine. Also lethargy, odd changes to the colouration, hiding, lack of interest in food, eventually fish become moribund, drifting about until they die.>
but I was wondering if you thought that a second filter would really bring her back?
<In and of itself, unlikely, but it would reduce ammonia and nitrite to zero. But my gut feeling is that there is some other stress factor here, perhaps long-term exposure to nitrate, cichlids being very sensitive to "skipped" water changes and the resulting old, nitrate-rich water.
Oxygenation is also important.>
If you thought that it would, I would go get a new one today, otherwise I would wait a week or two but it seems very time sensitive.
<Agreed, but I doubt waiting a few days for Amazon or whoever to deliver will make/break this tank.>
Also thanks for the link with the recipe for the rift valley salt mix, I will definitely mix some up today after a water change.
<Wise; low pH levels, anything below 7, will quickly stress Central American cichlids.>
I will look for better food as well I may be overfeeding them,
<For sure! This looks like a very fat cichlid. But it might also be Dropsy, in which case medication would be required. For what it's worth, I'd take a broad approach here and treat using Metronidazole plus an antibiotic (Nitrofuran or Kanamycin are often used with cichlids). The combination makes a good one-two punch, the first medication dealing with Hexamita, while the second deals with any systemic bacterial infections. It's a widely used approach with cichlids that are sick but for reasons difficult to pin down.>
how much should they eat?
<A good ball park estimate is a portion the size of the eye per meal. This is about right for pretty much every fish. Your sort of fish, a big cichlid, probably only needs a single meal per day. If given the right amount fish should look lean, and the belly should have only a very slight convex curve to it. If the fish looks like it's swallowed a ball, it's been overfed!>
The picture of the ammonia remover is the Fluval 110 that I am currently using, I'm guessing it's wrong
<It's fine but not particularly useful. If you have ammonia in the tank, it's better to use biological filtration to remove it. But short term, this may help over the next week or two. Do remember ammonia remover (zeolite) doesn't last long; refer to the instructions regarding replacement and/or recharging.>
so I'm trying to find a different brand but thought I'd attach it just in case. I am going to get a second filter today. Also I have had my filter for about 3 years now, could it be worn out?
<Unlikely but easy to tell. If the motorised pump is spinning and water is moving at the appropriate rate, it's probably fine. Some very cheap filters have short lives, 2-3 years, but Fluval and Aquaclear filters are reasonably good and should last 10 years if not longer, and usually what goes wrong isn't the pump but accessories such as hoses and taps that start leaking and need replacing.>
Thanks again for your time. Marie
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Re: Blood Parrot Cichlid trouble      1/8/14
Thank you again for everything, your e-mails were very helpful.
<Most welcome.>
I have been doing 25 % water changes every other day and I plan to continue that now that I know how important it is to the water quality. I will definitely look into the Eheim filter you mentioned. Honestly, when I was shopping for a new filter the Fluval filters didn't seem worth the money when compared to others that I saw so thanks for the suggestion on the German filter.
<Definitely worth the somewhat higher price, especially where big, messy fish are concerned. Do have a look at reviews online though and come to your own conclusions.>
I do not think my fish has a chance,
<Ah, that's not good news.>
everywhere seems to be out of clove oil, so I've ordered some online.
<I see.>
Thank you for your explanation on how to go about that.
<Ah, yes: 30 drops in a litre of aquarium water. Stir. Immerse fish. Wait 20-30 min.s to be sure.>
Again, I really appreciate your help and that you make yourself available for people like me.
<Good luck with your future fishkeeping. Cheers, Neale.>

Sick Parrot Fish with big red bag hanging   12/25/13
I had my parrot fish for 9 years and now she (could be a he too) Fifi, has a strange red bag like a cm long and 1/2 cm wide hanging out of her belly (mid body).
<Yes; most often termed a "prolapsed colon"; not too unusual in Cichlids>
 She is like 20 cm long.  She is also standing up side down close to the bottom in the tank.  I have a 60 gallon tank and two parrot fish.  The other, Fofo is much smaller than her even though they are nearly the same age.  He is 8.  I changed the water 2 weeks ago.
 Please help me!  I hate having fish, but that does not stop me from caring about them and loving them.  Lost one when Sandy hit (buried him in garden) and have only these two left.  Sending two pictures of her.
<Do simply search on WWM (the tool is on every page) with the string: "cichlid prolapsed colon"
and read the highlighted bits on the pages cited. More fiber in foods, perhaps the use of Epsom, less metabolite content in the water...
Bob Fenner>

re: Sick Parrot Fish with big red bag hanging   12/26/13
Thank you so much!  I am scared she is going to the other world, but hope I can save her thanks to you.  She is a wicked, angry fish.  Still love her.  Thank you!
<Welcome. BobF>
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