Question about a sponge filter / air pump / gravel
Hi Crew,
<Mario>
Three weeks ago, I upgraded my setup to 5g with a heater and a sponge filter (Jr Dirt Magnet). 
<Okay>
My question is how do I know, if filter is functioning properly? The bubbles are coming out from the plastic tube where I inserted the airline tube. But can the bubbles be from the airline tube that is not properly connected or is it from the sponge filter? 
<Not likely... if the air is coming out of the larger tube (the riser) all is likely fine>
I am asking this because I do 20% water changes twice a week, but the water still seem to be a light brownish color.
<Mmm, likely your system is just not "cycled" yet. Please read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm  and the Related FAQs 
(in blue, above)>
Is this harmful to the fish (Betta)?
<Could be... if you have substantial ammonia, nitrite present>
How can I direct any waste closer to the filter so that the filter to it pick up, if this makes any sense?
<Does... best to use a length of small flexible tubing to once a week change out a gallon or two of water by vacuuming up this material (put the water on your plants) and replace with tap water that you've set aside the previous week>
Also, I had to add a control valve to reduce the flow of air that is directed to the filter. Will this reduced flow reduce the life of the air pump (Rena 50)?
<Good question... it can... if too much back pressure is applied... better to just "bleed" off the excess air... with a three way valve or a gang valve with more openings... that is, not put back pressure on the pump, but allow the excess pressure an outlet through another valve.>
I did not include any gravel in my new setup. Should I or is it not important?
<Mmm, can be an asset functionally and aesthetically... but can be left out... A good idea to have a bit... a sprig or two of "floating grass" for your fish... maintenance>
I find without gravel, I have an easier time cleaning the waste at the bottom during my 20% cleaning.
<Yes>
Thanks, Mario
<Welcome, Bob Fenner>

Annoying Fish at Surface
>Hello, please can you help? 
>>More than you know. We here at WetWeb do so appreciate it when folks try to capitalize and punctuate properly. 
>I have spoken before on many occasions and you have sorted my problems, thanks very much. I have 4 medium-sized fish in a 18 x 12 tank, with a pump and filter. 
>>I wonder, what *kind* of fish? What's "medium-sized"? 
>We do all the necessary each week, 50 percent change, etc. 
>>A 50% water change should not be necessary in a properly set up and stocked tank.
>The fish are very healthy and seem very happy, eat well without being overfed and generally fine. 
>>Then clearly you're doing right by them. Ought not to change methods.
>Not all the time but on occasions, some of the fish go to the surface for a short time and make bubbles, and a horrible clicking noise sounding like electrics shorting. 
>>Not knowing what species we're talking about, I couldn't even begin to offer a guess as to what's up. There are plenty of fishes that "vocalize". Normally, though, when fish are at water's surface, it means they are feeling oxygen-deprived. Good surface agitation should help, and monitoring ammonia levels (do those 50% water changes happen to come before the fish go to the surface? Maybe a day or two before?), as high ammonia, especially at higher pH levels, can interfere with the uptake of O2 into the blood.
>It is very annoying, please can you help?
>>I can't offer more than what's above with the information I have.
>I am sure the pump is producing enough oxygen within the water as they all spend a lot of time under the water. Thanks very much. Lynn.
>>I'm glad that they're spending a lot of time under water, otherwise you might have quite the mess. (Sorry, I just couldn't resist.) Alright, I think we have a couple of misconceptions working here, QUITE common Lynn, let me assure you. First, air pumps (and water pumps) do NOT produce oxygen. They can only move that which they were designed to move. In the case of an air pump, it can only move air. When applied to aquaria, the purpose of the air movement is NOT to directly add oxygen to the water, as this is impossible. The purpose of the air pump is to use air to move WATER (most often from the bottom up). And that is what is conducive to promoting the oxygen/carbon dioxide exchange, which can ONLY occur at the water's surface. Since I don't know what kind of pump you're using (air vs. water), I can only tell you that you should ensure that there is good surface agitation on the water's surface. And, since I don't know what kind of fish are in there, nor their actual sizes, I cannot declaratively state anything, other than when this occurs it means that the fish need more oxygen. I'm sorry I couldn't be more definitive, but hopefully this will help. As for the annoying part.. I can't help you with that either, unless you'd like to take a couple of annoying cats I have here and I'll take your fish. Marina

Annoying Fish at Surface - Follow-up
>Hello Marina, thanks a lot for your prompt reply. 
>>You're very welcome, though I've been out of the loop the last few months. 
>Now using capitals and punctuation, I have considered myself told off. 
>>Oh my, I didn't mean to tell you off, at least not you alone. We get MANY messages from folks that can be quite difficult (or simply tedious at best) to pick apart, reformat, retype, etc. The reason why we do this is so that those who do not speak English can more easily use translators (most likely those available online) on the site to glean information from our site. In other words, yes, I busted chops, but it's really meant to get the point across to those reading the dailies, saves us literally hours a day if people will make the effort.
>Your thoughts were useful, you have a good sense of humour, and you really made me chuckle.
>>Ah! I am happy, then. 
>Continuing where we left off, my fish are basic goldfish, bought four months ago, and all four together. There seems to be no pattern as to this clicking noise, it's neither before the water change or after. 
>>Ok, then is it at any particular time of day?
>The air within the tank seems to be okay as they don't seem to struggle down in the water. 
>>Yes, many fish seem to really enjoy having those bubbles move along their bodies. I suppose it's as nice for them as it is for us in our Jacuzzis.
>Perhaps I should borrow your cat to sit on the top of the tank, that I am sure will keep them under the water. 
>>Ok, now you've got ME giggling. You may pick which cat. We have Callie - a calico, very old, and as a former alley cat a little too streetwise. Likely brain damaged, as she never acclimates to other people in the house, though she sometimes allows her owner, Grampies, to handle her safely on occasion. If she's not "down with it", though, she'll turn whatever appendage she can get hold of into hamburger. She likes Grampies' lap, canned cat food, and not much else. 
Then we have Stinky - a rescue. This fat boy was wrapped into a towel and dumped into a pit toilet on Highway 88 in the California Sierra Mountains. He was a day or two from death by starvation, and BOY he's made up for it! He'll eat just about anything except human food. He likes scratches, scratching the rug (puked on it this morning - very unusual), jumping up on everything, and counter-walking. He's the only animal my dog has ever protected her food from (yes, he'll eat her food). Being so fat, he'd do the best job of keeping your tank lids down.
>Sincerely thank you for your expertise and your time. Lynn
>>You're very welcome, again, Lynn. I suspect that there may be on occasions a lowering of the dissolved oxygen in the tank, which will induce the fish to "gasp" at the surface. As mentioned previously, surface agitation should fix this situation nicely. Marina 

Aeration for freshwater
Hi... excellent site.
My question is about aquarium aeration.  I skimmed through a few articles,
but they mostly referred to salt water setups and protein skimmers.  I am
inquiring about freshwater aeration.
Is there a specific amount of air that needs to be pumped into the tank?  I
have seen setups with and without an air pump.  Is there a general rule of
thumb?
< The key is water movement. Your filter should turn the total aquarium volume over at least three times per hour. So if you were working on a 100 gallon tank then you would need a filter that pumps at least 300 gallons per hour. Better would be a single pump or a couple of pumps that would pump at least 500 gallons per hour. As filters begin to clog then their flow rates begin to diminish.>
On side note,
I have been reading much about DIY wet/ dry filters.  I am intrigued by
this, as it seems like an easy and practical project.  The question here is
biological media (bioballs, etc).  What volume of biological media do you
need?  Obviously it will change depending on tank size, but that type of
volume calculations are used when determining the volume of bio- media used in
a wet/ dry filter.
< Tank size is only a part of the equation. The real test depends on how many fish you keep, how big the fish are, what you are feeding your fish, how often do you do water changes and how much water do you change? In the end when the filter is cycled the ammonia and nitrites should read zero at all times. The nitrates should be less than 25 ppm. Keep in mind that for some sensitive fish even 25 ppm may be high.-Chuck>
Thanks,
Charles