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| FAQs on Biological Filtration in
Freshwater Systems Related Articles:
Establishing Cycling, Freshwater Filtration,
Know Your Filter Media, A Concise Guide to Your
Options by Neale Monks,
Setting up a Freshwater Aquarium,
Tips for Beginners, Water
Quality and Freshwater Aquariums,
Related FAQs: Establishing
Cycling 1,
Cycling Products,
Freshwater Filtration,
Freshwater Environmental Disease, Nitrates
in Freshwater Aquariums,
Ammonia,
FW Nitrites, FW Nitrates,
Chemical Filtrants,
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pH effect on nitrifying bacteria 3/28/09
I'm setting up a Malawi cichlid aquarium.
<Very nice!>
I intend to inoculate the tank with sponge filter media from a friend's
aquarium to begin the cycling process.
<Excellent idea.>
My friend keeps South American cichlids, and his aquarium pH is about 7.
My aquarium water (tap water) is about 7.8 and is hard.
<Nothing to worry about.>
I've read that the bacteria may not survive substantial changes in pH
when transferred from one system to another.
<Yes, this is true, but if you acclimate the media just as you'd
acclimate fish, you'll be fine. In other words, put the media in a
bucket and just-cover with water from the South American aquarium. Over
the next, say, 30-40 minutes, add a cup or two of water every 5-10
minutes until the bucket is filled. When it's done, that's it! Move the
media into your filter, and off you go. As ever though, do take care to
check nitrite or ammonia in the days thereafter, and stock the tank
slowly, taking care not to overfeed.>
Should this be a concern for me? If so, can you suggest how I could
handle the transition? (I don't know anyone with an African tank who
could help me.)
Many thanks.
Les
<Good luck, Neale.>
Bacillus Bacteria filtration?
9/27/08 Hello crew, I was reading the following article
http://www.wallaquariums.com/cycling.htm and they strongly encourage the use
of something called Fritz Zyme #360 Gravel Cleaner. I've done some research on
this product and the bacillus bacteria, and I was hoping to get an opinion from
a trusted source. I'm brand new to this, and I'd prefer not to get "taken" if I
can help it. I have a 55g FW tank that is currently home to 4 apple snails.
Soon, I will be adding 5 Xenopus froglets. (I will have 7 froglets but two of
them will be in their own 20g tank). Anyway, as you are probably already aware,
both the snails and the frogs. well..poop. A LOT. In the interest of maintaining
a healthy environment where all life can thrive I've tried to incorporate many
layers of filtration. Right now I have a Lustar IV Hydro Sponge filter in the
tank, and an Aquaclear 70 HOB filter on it. My plan is to, once the tank is
stable (it's still cycling), remove the Aquaclear, and just have the sponge
filter running (I'll be stacking it, though, so I'll have an extra sponge in
case I need a Q Tank at some point). I also have some plants coming that I will
be adding to the tank. I will have driftwood planted with Anubias, and Limnobium
spongia floating at the surface. I have a gravel vac and do the regular
recommended weekly vacuuming and water changes. I was just wondering if a
product like this would help me in keeping the water quality in check between
weekly cleanings. I really hope this isn't addressed already, I used the search
feature on your site and couldn't find anything. Also, I really would appreciate
an opinion from the crew. Dr. Monks and Mr. Fenner have already been so helpful,
and this site is such a wonderful source for impartial information. Thanks so
much. Laura <Laura, by all means experiment with filtration methods. All
that really matters is that you have a system offering upwards of 4 times the
volume of the tank in turnover per hour. That's the key factor as far as
nitrogenous wastes are concerned (ammonia, nitrite). Solid wastes are different.
Solid waste (faeces, dead plant leaves, general debris) aren't toxic as such,
and removal is more a question of maximising water flow through mechanical
media. For that, the best approach is to use some type of canister filter;
air-powered devices lack the "suck" to do the job adequately. Virtually
everything else offered -- sludge removers, gravel cleaners, filter aids -- are
pretty much snake-oil remedies for problems that wouldn't exist in tanks where
adequate mechanical filtration was installed to begin with. In a tank with
strong water current, all the solid waste will either go into the filter or else
collect in one corner where the substrate is deliberately kept lower than the
rest of the tank (usually at the front). During a water change, you just suck
out this debris, and of course clean out the mechanical media in the filter
every few weeks. Properly maintained, the gravel in an aquarium should honestly
go years without needing cleaning, particularly if you install some Malayan
livebearing snails to circulate the substrate and break down organic wastes. For
what it's worth, in the tank where I keep a Panaque catfish -- a species that
eats wood and produces sawdust as its waste product -- I have filters running at
8-10 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Bacillus Bacteria filtration?
Thanks so much for the tips, and I'll check into those snails and canister
filter. Laura <Most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Bacillus Bacteria filtration?
Follow up questions.. 9/27/08 So, I'm a little confused..
Should I use a canister in addition to the sponge filters in the 55g tank?
<If you are concerned about solid wastes, then sure. But does all rather depend
on how messy these frogs are. In a 55 gallon system I can't imagine half a dozen
frogs will be a big deal really. Slope the substrate, and with luck detritus
will collect at the bottom of the slope. Siphon out waste as required (or even
use a turkey baster as a pipette.> (not very attractive in my tank) :-( ..
But I know that the frogs are sensitive to turbulence, so I thought if sponge
filters would do the work and minimize the turbulence, so much the better... BUT
if a canister filter will do all that then... This is tough. <No, not
really. Set the thing up with the frogs and the sponges. See how things go. If
it doesn't work out, add a suitable canister.> On the one hand I want to
create an environment that will make for happy, healthy, and thriving, plants
and animals. On the other hand, there are budgetary and space considerations.
And along those lines, a giant sponge filter in my tank definitely cuts down on
the swim room available for my frogs. <Agreed; does depend on your aims. As
stated, I'd go with the sponges or even an undergravel filter if budget is
tight.> But a canister filter, definitely cuts down on the room in my budget.
How are canister filters in terms of turbulence? <Depends on the size of the
filter!> What do you think? Thanks. Laura <Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Bacillus Bacteria filtration?
Follow up questions.. – 09/27/08 Thanks for simplifying. <Happy
to help.>
One of the tads got an ARM today. <Ooh!> Too exciting! <In a Gary
Larson sort of way, yes, I guess sprouting an arm would be... Cheers, Neale.>
BGK Problem... FW over and mis-stocking issues, no reading -08/25/08
We have a 55 gallon freshwater tank that has been set up for about three
months. We have 3 discus, 4 swordtails,
<Mmmm, "like" very different water conditions...>
4 clown loaches, 1 Pleco, 6 balloon belly tetras, 6 t-bone tetras, 1
elephant nose and 1 black ghost knife.
<Not generally a good idea to mix weakly electrogenic fish species>
The BGK and elephant nose were purchased together and were the first fish
introduced. The BGK was about 3" when purchased and he is about 5" now. We
added the other fish gradually. We do a 25% water change weekly. We are
figuring out the feeding thing, and know we've been feeding too much,
because of the water levels. Before we did the water change yesterday the
levels were: PH 6.8, Ammonia 0.10, Nitrite 0.10,
<These are toxic...>
Nitrate .40.
<Likely you've misplaced the decimal... forty ppm... is way too much>
Last week when we took our water sample to the fish store, we were told the
water levels were fine, except the ammonia was a little high.
<Any ammonia is reason for immediate action. Debilitating to deadly
poisonous>
That, also, was before the water change. All of the fish have been doing
well, except for swordtails, which were dying, one each day, for no apparent
reason.
<... do some reading... the "reason" is obvious.>
It looked as though they
were being picked on by other fish, because their fins looked very ragged. 8
have died. 4 remain, so we are done with swordtails for now (replaced them
with the clown loaches). The BGK was doing fine until a few days ago, when I
noticed that the white stripe on his head was pink. The next day it seemed
even pinker, but he was still eating aggressively and chasing other fish if
they came too close to his "house". Today I noticed that he has a worm-like
thing hanging from his chin/throat underneath. It looks like a Tubifex worm.
He isn't eating much, and is pretty much staying in his house when we feed
them. However, his pink stripe is lighter, looks like it is turning back to
normal color. We give the fish live Tubifex worms, frozen brine shrimp and
frozen blood worms. Pretty much worms every day and alternate with the
shrimp and blood worms. We sometimes give them flake food. Can you help
diagnose the BGK or tell me how to help him?
Thanks so much...
Jere
<All you need to know is archived on the WWM site... Your system is
dangerously over-stocked... Start reading on WWM re Nitrogenous issues:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmaintindex.htm
the third tray down... Acting on this knowledge should save most of your
livestock... Then read re each species/groups needs ("Systems")... Then
we'll chat. Bob Fenner>
Re: BGK Problem 8/26/08
I guess you can tell I'm a novice, huh? After the water change, the
ammonia was down to zero.
<Ah, good>
Today the BGK looks back to almost normal. The white stripe is a little
off-color, but that weird worm-thing is gone
and he has resumed eating. We haven't had any fishy deaths for almost two weeks,
and the only ones that died were swordtails.
<Mmm, you really need a much larger system... actually two...>
I really appreciate your answer, and I plan to keep reading your Web site. I
have been all over the Internet searching sites on aquariums and fish. I found
so much conflicting information, that I was at my wits end. Then I found your
site, which seemed much more consistent and extremely informative. I will
continue my research in your archives.
>Very good<
The fish store where we bought the fish will buy back fish as long as they are
healthy. We sold them four beautiful silver dollar fish when we bought the
discus, because they told us the two didn't mix. The discus are still small, so
we'll probably sell back more of our fish as they grow. I am in love with this
hobby and my fish. I don't want to kill any
more fish!
Thanks again for your answer. I'm impressed with your expertise.
<And I with your apparent even-mindedness. Cheers, BobF>
Maracyn Treated Tank 7/22/06
Hello...
<Hi>
I have added Maracyn to cure a supposed gill disease in my 29 g fw tank. I
pulled out the carbon, and noticed
my water is getting foggy. Is this common for this broad spectrum.
antibiotic?
Thanks!
Jenn
Tony
<The tank is getting cloudy because it is recycling. Most likely the
Maracyn nuked your biological filtration. The cloudiness comes from the
unprocessed biological materials and to some degree the recolonizing
bacteria.>
<Chris>
Biological Filtration - 2/21/2006
Please confirm I am correct here, for biological filtration I only need a
piece of seasoned sponge ?.
< No, a seasoned sponge filter like Hydrosponge.>
Can this float on top, or do I need some weight to have it on the bottom of
the tank?
< The Hydrosponge filter is hooked up to an airstone and is already weighted
in the bottom. Just hook it up to an airline and you are ready to go. Place
it in an already established tank for a month and pull it out and place it
in the QT tank when adding new fish.>
This would suggest there is nothing else in the tank, except some PVC pipe
and a sponge.
< A sponge filter and a heater.>
The reason I thought the internal filter was suitable is because it provides
mechanical, biological filtration, and also good water movement for airflow.
< By definition, any filter placed in an aquarium is an internal filter. It
can be as simple as a sponge filter or as complicated an internal
powerfilter. For QT tanks I think the simpler the better.>
What is the difference between a outside power filter, please can you quote
me a manufacturer and model #, and a canister filter?
<An outside power filter would be like an Emperor that hangs on the back of
the tank by Marineland. A canister would be like a Magnum 350 by Marineland.
It goes under the tank and is connected to the aquarium through a couple of
hoses.-Chuck>
Regards Alan Dalgarno
Question about rinsing bio filter media with tap water 8/29/05
I have a question. I set up my 29 gal tank almost 4 weeks ago. I have 3
albino Corydoras and 3 blood fin tetras. All of them seem to be doing fine so
far (have had them for about 2 and 3 weeks respectively). I did not know at the
time, but I had what seemed as an excess of calcium, so besides doing a water
change, I rinsed my bio filter under tap water (slightly) because it was all
covered with this white stuff (that was all over the water, ornaments, etc). I
read later not to do that because it kills the good bacteria.
<Mmm, yes... at least not to do "so thoroughly", particularly in a newly set-up
system>
I asked somebody at Petco and they told me this bacteria should build back on. I
want to know if this is true and how long it should take more or less.
<Is so, a few weeks>
I also have a carbon filter of course. I have had ammonia levels of 1.0 ppm
pretty much since I set it up.
<Dangerous>
My nitrates were pretty low, almost zero since set up, as well as nitrites. I
tested today (had not tested for about 5-6 days) and my ammonia is the same
still, but my nitrites went up as well as nitrates, although nitrates are in the
safe level still. I want to hear your insight about this, about the cycling of
my FW tank, and so on.
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above>
I feed my fish very little twice a day, but I am going to start feeding them
just once do to the spike in nitrites as well now. Please let me know, I am not
sure where and when to look for my answer. I had written an email a few weeks
ago but can't seem to find the answer for it anywhere in the website. It was
about RO water among other things. Thank you for your time.
- Zeke -
<Read on my young friend. Your good, discerning mind will see you through. Bob
Fenner>
Powerless FW Tank in Australia 7/27/05
Hi from Australia. I'm sorry if my questions have been answer in previous
submissions (I tried to use the search tool but couldn't find one that matched).
I have a 60L (15 Gallon) tank that was going great guns until Monday when we
had a power outage. I now have levels of Nitrite that are off the chart, I
understand that my tank now has to be cycled but I don't know how to go
about it with a tank full of fish. I have 4 Bristlenose catfish and 7
Corydoras trilineatus. I am fairly new to keeping fish (I have only had fish for
8 weeks) but I have since learnt that while cycling I should do frequent water
changes but leave the gravel alone as the good bacteria can live in the gravel..
Is this
correct.?
<The bacteria that break down the fish waste require oxygen. Many times after a
power outage the oxygen level drops and fish/bacteria suffer. When power is
returned it may take awhile to get the aquarium to recover.>
and how often should I do the water changes?
< Check the water for ammonia and nitrites. Both should be zero. If you are
getting readings then you need to reduce the concentrations by diluting the
water or by adding BIO-Spira from Marineland. Nitrates are less toxic and can go
up to 25 ppm before a water change is required. But the tolerance to nitrates is
dependant on the species.>
After the power outage I have since done the following washed out the
filter, done 2 20% water changes, removed the plants and when I do the water
changes I add cycle (promotes bacteria) and Tetra Aqua Safe which removes
Chlorine, Chloramine and heavy metals. Is there anything else I should be
doing?
< The plants absorb fish waste. keep them in the tank under good lighting to
help reduce nitrates, etc...>
Thank you very much in advance for your help :) Tash
P.S I have since invested in a battery backup air pump.
< You have become a smarter aquarist already.-Chuck>
NNR in freshwater?
Hi Bob.
<Hello Gustavo>
I wonder if somebody already used the principle behind NNR in freshwater
systems. I mean deep sand bed (1-2 mm size), good water flow etc.
<Does work>
The thing is I am reading and learning before setting my first freshwater
system, planted with discus and a few other compatible fishes, but I own a
reef system that really works very well with NNR plus heavy skimming.
Do you have information about it?
Thanks in advance
Gustavo
<Will, would take me some time to look up actual supporting data, but natural
hypoxic/anaerobic nitrate reduction does indeed occur in such conditions in
freshwater habitats. Bob Fenner>
Too Much Bio Filtration??
Hello crew, I have a freshwater setup 55 gallons. I have a Fluval 404 but I
don't need or use carbon in the system (it is a planted tank). I'm wondering if
there is such a thing as too much biological filtration? In other words if I
fill the 4 trays with only biological media, will this have an adverse effect on
the bacteria colonies. Will they out-compete themselves for ammonia/nitrates and
meet their demise? Thanks
<You can never have too much bio filtration. The size of each of your colonies
will adjust up and down to your bio load. It's a great thing to have the amount
of ammonia/nitrite be the limiting factor in their size. Four small colonies
will adjust up very quickly should an ammonia spike happen. Don>
Cleaning Bio Media/Vacation Feeding
Hi. I have some questions about cleaning the biological filter material. Am
I supposed to wash the biomedia every once in a while? When should I replace the
old media with new one? I have two firemouths (1.5 inch) and a gibbiceps
(2 inches). I am about to leave for 5 days and I can't get anybody to take care
of my fish. I don't know how to get my fish fed during my absence.
If I use a feeder, much of the food would sink to the bottom, as the firemouths
can consume only 1 pellet at a time. Moreover I would not be able to set the
feeder up, so that a proper dose is distributed each time. It always happens
that the pleco's pellets drop all at the beginning (and polluting the water) or
clog the feeder's exit, leaving no food to pass through. In every way feeders
have many serious drawbacks, according to my experience. Should I use those food
tablets that last for a week and dissolve slowly in the water, or would it
pollute the water a lot? Is it too much to leave the fish without any food at
all?
<You should never clean or replace the bio media. If this is a sponge that gets
clogged, swish it around in some old tank water after a change. Never rinse
under the tap. The chlorine will kill the bacteria. To replace or clean it would
require you to recycle the tank. For a five day trip I would just feed them well
for a day or two before hand and not worry about it. They will be hungry, but
alive and healthy, when you get home. Don>
Bouncing Bio Wheel
Here I am resending this email. Oh and by the by, all my ammonia issues have
finally resolved themselves!
<Great. Probably the number one killer of fish. Bio filtration is very
important>
Greetings, and my deepest thanks for ANYTHING you can help me out with. Ok, so
here's my issue, but first, I'm sure you will want to know all about my tanks,
and such, (although that isn't terribly pertinent to my question). I have two
ten gallons (I'm 16 and I baby-sit, so my income is hilarious, otherwise I'd
have 55 gallon tanks or something) one of the tens is filtered with a penguin
bio wheel mini, and the other, has two of these absolutely dirt cheap box filter
thingy deals. And up until recently the cheapo filters had run for a year, with
no fish killing problems.
One of the tens, houses about 10 or 15 Dalmatian lyre tail molly fry, which are
almost a month old. And to be brutally honest, I have no idea why they are still
alive, and apparently thriving. Crazy ammonia levels have forced me to perform
water changes just about every other day, which I fear is only sending the
ammonia/nitrate/nitrite cycle dealy even more out of whack.
<Your work at water changes are why the fry are alive. Water changes will slow,
but not stop, the establishment of the bacteria needed to cycle. I would suggest
a simple change here. Replace the boxes with sponge filters. Since there is no
floss to replace, bacteria will continue to thrive in the filter rather them be
thrown away when you service the box. There is no real need for particle (floss)
or chemical (charcoal) filtration if you do partial water changes as needed.>
You'd think that would be my problem, but it isn't. Moving along to the OTHER
tank, all of ITS issues started, when I started switching the filter's around in
the different tanks. I moved the bio-wheel from the now-molly fry tank, to what
I christened the Death Tank, so that the babies wouldn't all get sucked up into
it. This of course, left the fry tank filter-less, so I put the two box filters
in there.
Well, unfortunately, in the past week or so, I've switched them around again,
because the fry are big enough to NOT get sucked up and I want them to have the
nicer filter because they are oh-so endearing. Gosh, I'm really sorry to whoever
is reading this, I realize it's long and confusing but please bear with me.
So, here's where the question comes in: Because my death tank seems to have
un-cycled itself (and by that I mean, the ammonia which had previously been
flawless, is high, and who the heck knows what the nitrate and nitrite are even
doing?!)...
<You should be testing for nitrite and nitrate, not just ammonia. Very
important>
...fish have been succumbing to these stresses and developing illnesses. A week
ago, one of my cherry barbs (which I've had for a year-ish) decided to get
dropsy. He looked hilarious, but it ended sadly, when after treating with some
Jungle Fungus stuff in conjunction with Jungle Parasite stuff. (I'd read it
could be either, although I'm not sure my diagnosis was correct.) He died.
Yesterday, I started treating my death tank for Ick.
<Most bloating is caused by an internal bacterial infection. Fungus and parasite
meds would be of little use. A medicated anti bacterial flake food may have been
a better choice. Even a good wide spectrum antibiotic in the water may have been
better. And why are you treating for Ich? First, you make no mention of white
spots on the fish. Second, you already treated for parasites. Do not treat
unless you need to>
Here's the part that I simply don't understand: For all of these medicine's I've
been using to treat my cursed tank, they say to discontinue carbon filtration,
which with my set-up, is all the mechanical filtration I've got. So what I've
been doing, is putting the box filters into the fry tank, which has remained
untreated, putting the bio-wheel filter into the death tank, which I first take
the filter pad out of, because of course, it contains carbon. No wonder my tank
is so screwed up!
Can the bio-wheel alone handle the filtration of 1 female Betta, two adult
mollies, and two barbs? I sort of doubt it.
<There are three types of filtration. Particle filtration simply removes any
junk floating in the water. Any waste or old food that hits the bottom will
usually stay there until removed with a gravel vac during water changes. This is
less important than most people think. A good water change schedule removes far
more junk than even the best filters. The second type of filtration is chemical.
Usually done by adding charcoal. You only need chemical filtration if you are
trying to remove a chemical, such as at the end of a med treatment. You can
simply cut the black plastic cage on the filter insert and shake out most of the
charcoal. The third, and by far the most important, is bio filtration. This is
establishing a bacterial colony to convert the ammonia produced by the fish into
nitrite, then finally nitrate. Most of the bacteria in your system lives on that
bio wheel. It must be considered as if, and treated like, it was alive. In fact
it is, with millions of lives working to keep your fish alive. When you start
moving bio wheels around you may stress or kill the colony. Also, antibacterial
meds will nuke the colony. That's what causes the ammonia to spike. Please read
here on establishing FW cycling.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm>
Could you possibly tell me how in the world I'm supposed to keep the tank clean,
while medicating it?
Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.
<Stop all treatments and work towards re establishing your bio filtration. If
you do treat you must do water changes to correct ammonia or nitrite spikes,
replacing the med with each>
Thank you so much again, I'm sorry this is so long.
Liz
<No problem. Don>
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