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FAQs on Tanks for Freshwater
Systems Related Articles:
Freshwater Tanks, Treating Tap Water,
Freshwater Aquarium Set-up, pH, alkalinity, acidity,
Freshwater Aquarium Water Quality, Freshwater
Maintenance,
Related FAQs: Freshwater Aquarium
Water Quality, Treating Tap Water for Aquarium Use,
pH, Alkalinity, Acidity, Freshwater Algae Control,
Algae Control, Foods,
Feeding, Aquatic Nutrition, Disease, |
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Mickey Mouse Platy & Cory Catfish... stkg. too tiny volumes
08/05/09
Hello,
I have a 1.5 gallon tank, tiny little thing.
<1.5 gallons is too small for fish. Repeat, too small. As in TOO SMALL
for fishkeeping. You cannot possibly keep any fish in there. If the
retailer told you that it was fine for fish, he/she was lying and taking
advantage of your ignorance. For a newcomer to fishkeeping, a 20 gallon
is the best starting point. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_5/volume_5_3/stocking.htm
>
Kiddie Pools as Aquariums 6/30/09
Hey Crew, Sorry if this question has been asked before, but I am
interested in keeping some bigger freshwater fish, but I am afraid that
glass aquariums of that nature will cost a fortune. I was wondering if
using an alternate aquarium such as a kiddie pool may be viable, given
that they can hold up to several hundred gallons of water.
<Mmm, yes... many kinds can be used... Do be careful with ones that
"smell" strongly of plasticizer.... I'd definitely scrub/rinse with rock
salt and water, use some livestock as a bio-assay for a few weeks before
stocking... And do remember these need some sort of cover to prevent
livestock leaving... and filtration, heating... will humidity be an
issue?>
I have sufficient room in my basement for it and I have already found
the appropriate filtration and heating
necessary for the pool, and having to spend less on the aquarium cuts
the cost a lot.
<Yes... with what little is left after bureaucrats/gov't steal half our
income, devalue what's left...>
I don't mind that I have to look at the fish from the top. Thanks for
the help in advance.
Have you heard anyone doing this before?
<Oh yes... have even done myself. Do read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/lnrspdabvh2o.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Ammonia (Bi Orb tanks; fatalities; poor water quality; the
usual, really...)
6/21/09
Hi Guys
<Hello,>
Hope you can help, tried everything I can from various web sites but
getting know where .
<Oh?>
I've a 30 l /8 US Gal Bi Orb which has been running for about 6 months,
set up end of December , added fish slowly as suggested and got up to 6
Tetras and 2 Guppy's by mid March with no problems but was aware was now
getting to maximum tank occupancy .
<Do understand that 30 litres, 8 US gallons is much below the minimum
recommended size for tropical fish aquaria. Even 10 US gallons would be
borderline for things like Neon Tetras. More importantly, Bi Orb tanks
are an "odd" design that actually isn't all that good for keeping fish.
They look nifty, I admit, but the spherical shape is the worst possible
for fish in terms of surface area to volume ratio. The key thing is that
there isn't a lot of oxygen getting into the water. So while they're
widely sold, I strongly recommend against people buying them.>
For no apparent reason started to get an ammonia reading at the start of
April , 0.25 , done partial water change about 10/20% added water
conditioner and added cycle , following day all reading back to normal ,
tested water again couple of days later and ammonia starting to appear
again , this is still happening now .
<It's probably not a "no apparent reason" issue, but rather something
that's gradually developed. Ammonia comes from the fish, and it's
removed by the biological filter. If you have ammonia in the water, it
means you
either [a] have too many fish; [b] have insufficient filtration; and [c]
you're adding too much food, and what the fish don't need is ending up
in the filter and rotting. It's also worth mentioning that as time
passes a
variety of things happen. The fish grow, for one thing, and a fish twice
the length it was will actually be eight times the mass, so as fish
grow, they produce much more ammonia than we think. As time passes, silt
clogs up the biological filter media, be they sponges or ceramic
noodles, and the silt suffocates some of the bacteria. So over time,
filters process less ammonia, and to remedy that the media needs to be
rinsed off
periodically.>
I've done partial water changes now , vacuuming the gravel media ,
anything from 10% up to 50% , 2 to 3 times a week but after a couple of
days ammonia starts to come back and rises very sharply . At first I was
adding Ammo Lock or Ammonia Remover but haven't done this for a month
now , just the water conditioner and cycle , at water changes , however
even when I add cycle now I don't get a biological bloom .
<Sounds to me as if this tank is overstocked, insufficiently filtered,
and perhaps too much food is added.>
All other readings are fine and have never changed .
<What are they?>
The tank currently has only 5 Tetras in it now as 1 of them and the 2
Guppy's have died , they showed no sign of illness and were behaving
normally , they didn't go all at once and were taken straight out once
found , last one to die was the Tetra about 2 weeks ago .
<Hmm...>
The current tank conditions are Temp 26 , ph 6.4 , ammonia .25 , nitrate
0 nitrate 0
<Woah! Guppies cannot possibly be kept at pH 6.4! These are fish that
need hard, basic water: around pH 7.5 to 8, general hardness 10+ degrees
dH. If you live in a soft water area, it's best to keep Guppies in a
brackish water system, adding 6-9 grammes of marine salt mix (not
aquarium salt or tonic salt) per litre of water. This will not be
acceptable for Tetras though.>
Hope you can help
Many Thanks
Paul
<Cheers, Neale.>
biOrb Aquarium - Planted Tank
5/16/09
Hello Bob,
<Tom>
I'm hoping you might be able to assist me by writing an article about
creating a stunning freshwater biotope in a biOrb Life aquarium?
<In what way/s?>
I'm not sure if you know much about the biOrb range of aquariums (see
www.reef-one.com)
<Mmm, am quite familiar... saw the line last year at Interzoo again...
in CASCO's booth>
but we have developed an aquarium which makes keeping fish extremely
easy for novice fishkeepers. All our aquariums (16 Gallons is the
largest) have biological, chemical and mechanical filtration which is
pretty unique for this size of aquarium. In a recent review by Practical
Fish Keeping magazine they said "The filtration is commonly mistaken for
Undergravel - which is isn't" and "Contrary to popular belief, the
filter is actually pretty good and works well. In fact the amount of
ceramic media supplied would be enough to biologically support a much
larger density of fish. As a result it gets full marks for biological
filtration".
<Yes...>
Our aquariums are designed to look attractive and bring more people into
the hobby of fishkeeping (which as you may know the numbers of fish
keepers is declining around the world), but we haven't sacrificed good
fishkeeping practices to make the aquarium attractive.
One of the elements of the fishkeeping hobby which we have not explored
in great detail is planted aquariums. Due to the ceramic media, which
provides the huge biological filtration, it does make keeping some live
plants more tricky. However as the images attached show it is very
possible to create a planted aquarium but I would like an expert like
yourself who has a great eye for designing amazing planted aquariums to
look at designing one. Is this something you would be interested in
doing?
<Thank you for the offer, but no>
As you can see these images are ones which were taken with a simple
camera before thinning out the plants etc. However, this does show how
nice the planted biOrb Life looks.
Please let me know if you are interested in working with me on this.
Kind Regards,
Tom
<Am out of the country too much of the rest of the year really to do
such a project justice... and by and large not a "big fan" of such small
volumes with limited surface area, inherent troubles in heating,
maintenance. But I wish you and your business well. Bob Fenner>
Link Exchange Please, no 5/6/09
HI My name is Paul and I have recently started an online store selling
some amazing fish tanks.
I would like to say that I love wet web media and it is a great resource
for all pet fish information, and I have added a link to your site from
my site at http://aquariumsbowls.com/information.php?info_id=9 Let me
know if you would like this changed in any way/ anchor text or
description.
I would really appreciate if you could return the favor and link to
mine.
The Title(anchor text): Fish tanks
The site is: http://www.aquariumsbowls.com
Description: Unique Fish tanks and aquariums for marine, tropical and
Bettas.
Thanks very much for your time!
Paul Sutherland
info@aquariumsbowls.com
<Paul, I/we elect not to link or help you promote these items... It is
my decided opinion that what you show/list is not of use to "home
hobbyists"... Bare bowls for Bettas, sans heater, filter... won't work
for the "average" person to keep Siamese Fighting Fish alive, well, for
long... and the small, tall cylinders you show are poor for similar
reasons... lacking much needed surface area and volume to house much of
anything, least the animals shown in the "ads"... I strongly suggest you
revisit, think long and hard re what you are up to here... And either
change your product assortment, or add at least some commentary re what
will be required if one tries to keep life in these ornamental
containers. Bob Fenner>
Baby BiOrb tank - my fish have died, advice for future please. –
09/07/08
Hello there,
<Good morning,>
I am in desperate need of some advice.
<Oh?>
About 5 months ago I bought a baby BiOrb tank.
<Please understand this tank contains just 15 litres (less than 4 US gallons) of
water. It is not suitable for fishkeeping, end of story. It's a very expensive,
very attractive, bucket. A total con? Well, depends on how you define "throwing
your money down a hole" but the image on the front with Goldfish and such is
completely misleading. At best, it could house a single Betta, or alternatively
a few Cherry Shrimps and funky Nerite snails. But that's it. No other fish of
any type whatsoever will be happy or easily maintained in a tank this shape or
size. The small volume means that fish wastes can't be diluted effectively, and
the tiny surface at the top (because its a sphere, not a box) means very little
oxygen diffuses into the water. By any standards, it's useless for fishkeeping.>
We slowly introduced 6 guppies, a loach and 2 platys. When I brought the platys
home and put them into the tank to adjust in the bag I noticed there were 9
babies in their which must have been born on the way home. This is the first
time I've had fish so I wasn't sure what to do with them. As I had already had a
guppy baby survive to 4 months (at that time) and bearing in mind it was after
shops closing time I decided to add them all to the tank.
<Long term none of these fish will survive. As they grow, they'll expect more
"resources" in terms of oxygen and waste management, so there will come a point
where the Baby BiOrb is overloaded, and they'll sicken and die.>
All of the babies survived, 6 of them lived in the filter (which it seemed they
could swim in and out of) and three were happy hiding in the rocks at the bottom
of the tank. The guppies also had babies and two of these survived by living in
the filter.
<OK.>
Two weeks later I noticed that one of the guppies had a fur on her and was
waving her head from side to side, then I noticed another had white spots/.
After researching on the internet I discovered this was Ick. I immediately went
to my pet shop and was recommended the BiOrb
First Aid filter. I carried out the instructions and hoped for the best.
Removing the existing filter managed to kill all the platy babies which were
living in it (I was distraught about this).
<Right; the "fur" is Fungus, and typically means poor water quality. No great
surprise really. The Whitespot/Ick is a parasite likely brought in with the new.
Both diseases need prompt treatment with specific medications.>
Gradually day by day all the fish have died including last night the two guppy
babies. I am left with only the loach which doesn't seem to have developed Ick.
This has been a very upsetting experience and I was wondering what I should do
now. How do I find out whether the
loach has Ick (he doesn't appear to have any spots or fur) and how do I go about
introducing new fish and ensure that this experience does not repeat?
<You absolutely cannot add any more fish to this system. Please, re-home the
Loach. What species is it? I'm guessing a Clown Loach (orange-and-black
creature) or a Weather Loach (mottled brown, eel-like thing with long whiskers).
Either way, completely unsuitable for this system, and being both gregarious
species need big tanks that allow them to be kept in groups.>
I was also wondering what I should do when the babies are born. We have lots of
ceramic media in the bowl for them to hide in but if they are living in the
filter how do I get them out and what happens when they get too big to swim out
and get trapped?
<Rearing the babies is the least of your problems. But do see here for the
basics:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/poeciliids.htm
>
I would appreciate any help and advice.
<Take the fish out of the darn thing, and either put shrimps/snails in it or
sacrifice it to the Fish Gods. Either way, it's of no use for what you want. The
pet store sold you a "bill of goods" as the Americans say... (in other words,
you were taken advantage of as someone who didn't known what they were buying).
Have a read of this:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwlivestk.htm
And then get back to us if you're still unsure about what to do next and we'll
do our best to help. Do also invest in an aquarium book, or at least borrow one
from the library. Beginners often start with very small tanks (by which we mean
anything less than 90 litres/20 gallons) and these are notoriously difficult to
stock with suitable fish. Maintaining good water quality in small tanks is hard
work too. So it pays to be upfront about the problems, and make sure you've done
your research. Fishkeeping is a very simple hobby if you do things precisely "by
the numbers" in terms of fish requirements and water chemistry; but if you try
to make things up as you go along, or worse, rely on the advice of the store
clerk, you'll almost certainly end up with dead fish.>
Many thanks,
<Most welcome.>
Lucy
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Baby BiOrb tank - my fish have died, advice for future please. –
09/07/08
Hi Neale,
<Hello Lucy,>
Thanks so much for this advice. The loach is a weather loach
<A lovely fish; needs at least a 25-30 gallon tank though -- gets to 20 cm
eventually, and does want some buddies. Does great with Goldfish in an unheated
tank indoors. Lots of character.>
and I will see if I can find a bigger tank in which to rehome him. I'll do some
research and check out the links you recommend first as you suggest.
<Very good.>
I really appreciate your no-nonsense and speedy reply. I certainly do not want
to repeat this experience, it has been heartbreaking.
<I understand. We've all been there. What we try to do here is to show how
keeping fish can be rewarding, rather than upsetting.>
Many thanks,
Lucy
<Most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
Fish Bent in Half: Improper Housing -
7/1/08
Hey guys!
<Hello! Benjamin here today>
My fish is in a bowl on his own, fed regularly but only a small
amount, washed regularly and given attention.
<Hee! I don't know if he needs 'attention' but it sure is fun to
watch our fish! On the other hand, there really are no fish that are
suited for life in a bowl. I assume you have a Betta or a goldfish-
a Betta needs a heated, filtered aquarium; a goldfish requires at
least 15 gallons of living space to prevent toxic build-up of
wastes. Please read on wetwebmedia.com re the specific needs of
whatever the denizen of your bowl is>
He is currently almost bent in half and led on the bottom of the
bowl. When he swims, he swims in circles but keeps sinking to the
bottom. Can you please tell me what is actually wrong with him and
if there is anything I can do to help him?
<Based on his living space, probably poisoning from ammonia or
nitrite compounds; otherwise a late-stage symptom of internal
infection of the coelom or gas bladder. If your fish has not reached
expiry by the time you read this, small frequent water changes with
dechlorinated water may help- as will some time spent reading about
proper husbandry for this fish and future charges>
Thanks in advance,
Vicki
<Best of luck, Benjamin>
Re: Fish Bent in Half: Improper Housing: Since the Sun has Risen
Yesterday, Surely Tomorrow... - 7/1/08
Hello!
I have kept fish in the same tank for years and most usually live
3-5 years. But thanks anyway for your advice.
<Past successes do not dictate future ones...Bacon would have things
to say here...
<<! A new high! Sir Francis evoked on WWM!!! RMF>>
the point in case here is that your fish is improperly housed and
one way or another its demise is imminent and hastened by being kept
in a bowl. Please read re basic fishkeeping, ethics on
wetwebmedia.com. If this is a Betta spp. you are slightly under the
expected lifespan; if this is a goldfish you have barely reached a
sixth of their low-end life expectancy. Ultimately, although bowls
may be popular they simply cannot be used conscientiously- that they
are safe or adequate for any fish is false. As G.K. Chesterton
points out, "Fallacies do not cease to be fallacies because they
become fashions">
Vicki
<Benjamin>
|
Changing to freshwater and stocking
6/18/08
Hello again.
<Hello!>
You have all been very helpful in the past with my current marine tank
though I now fancy a change as the maintenance of the marine tank is taking up
too much time. I have a 500ltr main tank with a 100 ltr sump running an ocean
runner 3500. In the main tank I have 2 Hydor no4's to give circulation. The
lighting is by was of arcadia series 3 metal halide lamps.
<Apart from the skimmer, most of your marine hardware can be used in a
freshwater tank with ease. The lights may be rather strong though, i.e.,
algae-promoting and expensive, unless you're keeping very light-demanding
plants. Otherwise, scaling back to the equivalent of 2-3 Watts per gallon
fluorescent lighting is ample.>
As I mentioned the maintenance of the marine tank is starting to get behind
due to time limits and I am looking to switch back to freshwater. That way I can
do regular water changes with ease.
<Indeed.>
So to the point. As I have not had freshwater for a long time I am quite out
of it and have tried looking though your articles only to fry my brain.
<Oh?>
I am looking to use the current set up but change the substrate to a gravel
and completely clean out the tanks. If I leave some of the current substrate
will this help cycle the tank quicker?
<Not really; except in a fairly high-end brackish system, the "marine"
filter bacteria will die back completely.>
What would you put in the sump for fresh water, I considered just gravel and
lots of plants (not sure what type yet)
<The usual use for sumps in freshwater tanks is as a place to dump chemical
media, specifically carbonate material for raising the KH. This is obviously
useful if you're keeping fish that need hard water, such as Tanganyikans, Mbuna,
Central Americans, or Livebearers. A brackish water setup would also benefit
from the sump being filled with calcareous material, but adding salt to water
might be just the sort of work you're trying to avoid! Some (advanced) aquarists
also use them as "vegetable filters", using fast-growing plants or algae to
remove nitrate from the water. Do look at the book 'Dynamic Aquaria' for info on
this sort of thing. Otherwise, simply use the sump as additional filter space
and fill with bio-balls or ceramic noodles in media bags.>
And finally I am looking for a quite a busy community tank (the kids love
watching loads of fishes shoal) but with a few interesting fishes for me.
<Lots of options here. If I had a big tank with a sump, I'd definitely
explore the idea of small to medium-sized Tanganyikans (lots of colours,
interesting behaviour) or "rare" (in the sense of infrequently kept) livebearers
such as Goodeids. Both these options would provide ample scope for an advanced
aquarist to try out non-standard, non-generic freshwater fish, whilst still
offering the family lots of "pretty fish" for them to watch and breed.>
Any help on the above points greatly appreciated.
P.S. I considered using some of the live rock as decor rock. I know it seems
a waste but might as well use some of it as the LFS does not want it all. Will
the rock have any benefit in freshwater of just decor.
<Dead "live" rock becomes nothing more than limestone rubble; again,
splendid for tanks where the fish like hard water, but really rather an
expensive approach. Generic tufa rock works just as well.>
Many thanks again
Paul
<Cheers, Neale.>
Seeking feed Back 05/25/08
Why wondering throw the web today I trip over a idea I fell in love with. The
water bridge setup were two or more tank are link with upside down "U". It sound
like a grate why to get a big tank out of smaller tanks. What sound like a must
is having the filter intake in one tank and it's output in the other insuring
water flow in the U. The tanks would need to be at the same high I belief to
void one draining into the other when the power goes out. One would also have to
watch water level in the tanks to void emptying out the bridge into the tanks.
<Sounds like a lot of work to me. Connecting tanks with tubes and bridges and
whatnot looks good on paper, but most fish won't swim through these connections,
especially if they are transparent. Nothing really beats a simple rectangular
aquarium.>
When I saw this idea layout I thought it would make a interesting setup for a
clown loach tank. The problem is I don't belief clown loach would want to swim
through a see throw pipe.
<Indeed, a Clown Loach would not swim through a transparent PVC or glass tube.>
It would be grate if I could go to the store and pick up black PVC piping which
cost far, far less then the see throw stuff, but would they swim throw a pitch
black pipe?
<Perhaps, if at the bottom of the tank.>
There also the desire to be able to monitor ones fish coming and going throw the
water bridge to insure the don't get themselves into trouble. They be out of
sight in black PVC, but then a fish could still get them selves into trouble
hiding out in their cave with out any water bridge to be seen.
<Doubt the fish would get stuck; most fish are very good at squeezing through
cracks and tunnels.>
Then there the other burning question how long and how wide should a tanks be
for a group of clown loach, if one could make clown loach friendly water bridge?
<Clown loaches are big fish, potentially 30 cm/12". They are also schooling
fish, and shouldn't be kept in groups smaller than 5-6. Obviously that means
they need a big tank. I'd recommend not less than 250 litres/55 gallons for
juveniles, and even bigger tanks for adults.>
I spouse in theory one could link 5 20 gallon tanks measure 2 feet long 1 foot
wide and get 100 gallons, but no full grown clown loach would be happy in any of
them even if one had the worlds grates water filtration. So needless to say I
know 2 foot long tank are out for clown loach's but could 3 feet or 4 feet long
tanks work? or would they be to short or not wide enough?
<120 cm/4' would be the minimum for a single unit in such a system of tanks.>
The water bridge idea seem to me to be a grate way to get around the fact it can
be hard were I live to find a tank over 4 feet long for sale, yet there are pit
falls with the idea some I seen other I have not.
<Can't say I feel very positive about this idea. It's perhaps better to think
about what Clown Loaches want, and design a tank around them. Perhaps construct
a miniature version first and try it out with a smaller loach species like Botia
sidthimunki, and see how that works out. Cheers, Neale.>
Upgrading tanks 4/28/08
Hi! I'm Alia.
<Hello Alia! One of my fave characters names from Frank Herbert's "Dune" series>
I want to thank you guys in advance for all you help! I find your site very
useful. Anyway, I currently have a 10 gallon glass aquarium with filtration and
fluorescent lights. In my tank I have 5 mollies, two black (1 male and 1
female), two golden Lyretails (1 male and 1 female), and 1 silver female. I keep
the tank brackish. I want to get a larger tank possibly a 20-25 gallon one.
<Ahh! You will find it much easier to maintain>
I'm having difficulties finding a tank because I am not sure if acrylic is
better than glass or if I should buy an aquarium kit or buy the pieces
separately.
<There are a few "standard" arguments pro/con... glass being cheaper, but
acrylic reselling for more... glass breaking easier, but acrylic scratching
easier... all posted on WWM>
If buying the pieces separately is better, what type of filter, lights, and
heater do you recommend?
<Posted... see: http://wetwebmedia.com/
for both freshwater and brackish systems.>
I've been looking online and I haven't found a tank in that size range. Do you
know of a place to purchase reasonable priced tanks? I live near Torrance
California. Thank you so much!
<Mmm, I'd look around, even consider Craig's List for used gear here... as you
live in a densely populated area, there are likely deals to be had. Bob Fenner>
Two-tank coldwater system? FW
01/22/2008
Hello, and thanks for reading,
<Welcome>
My wife bought a ?goldfish? tank with some Christmas money, it is ten gallons,
and I promised to take care of it for her.
<Mmmm>
Now, as anyone who knows anything about fish will tell you, and as I recently
discovered with a little research, ten gallons is not even enough for a single
goldfish if they survive long enough to grow.
<Correct>
I could now begin a long tirade about how fish are marketed, sold, and kept
(especially betas), but that would be preaching to the choir, so I won't bother.
<Appreciated>
Unfortunately, I got caught up in the fun and bought my own little friend, a
blue crayfish they sell as ?blue lobsters? for aquariums.
(Which is silly I guess, because they can be troublemakers, or get eaten when
they moult.) He has his own tank, and is busy remodeling.
The problem is: I have a black moor, a calico fantail, and 2 very entertaining
snails in a 10 gallon tank, and an adorable little crayfish in a 6.6 gallon long
tank. Everything is fine now, but this will not last long. (Can you believe it?
These things grow over time! And they poop! Who knew?)
<Heeee!>
The solution is: More water, duh.
The question is: How best to do it?
<Buying a larger tank, system...>
I have a few ideas, but I want to run them by an informed person before I do
anything else retarded with regard to livestock.
From what I have read on various websites until my eyes burned, the more water
volume in an aquarium/system, the better, so keeping two tiny aquariums is sort
of counter intuitive to the whole idea of an aquarium anyway. It goes without
saying I'll have to purchase larger tanks, but my readings got me curious about
a few things.
After I acquire a larger tank for the goldfish, would it be a good idea to get a
20 or use the ten for the Cray, and connect it somehow to the goldfish tank, so
that the two separate tanks are part of one system?
<A neat project... and would marginally improve water quality...>
I don't want to put the Cray in the same tank as the goldfish for obvious
reasons, but would them being in the same system cause any problems?
<The Cray might well eat the goldfish>
Would adding iodine for the crayfish hurt the goldfish?
<No, not in moderation>
I read an article here about someone who kept Crays in a sump for a goldfish
tank, and it seems like a good idea, being that they are both coldwater, but I
want to make sure.
What is the best way to do this?
<Mix, blending their water? To use a sump for both displays... pump water to
them, allow to individually return to the lower sump...>
Are there easier ways that don't involve drilling holes in aquariums?
<Yes... there are "overflows" that are hang-ons... of a few designs...>
Is this dumb, and should I just try and maintain the two tanks separately?
<Mmm, not necessarily. Do take a look here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
The second and fourth trays... on Sumps, Overflows...>
Also, I use a Berkey filter system for our human drinking water- would this
water then be appropriate to use in the tanks, or would it require further
treatment? Here's a link to their informational site for more info on what the
filter does. (www.berkeywater.com)
<Neat product and site... this water will be fine for use as is>
Thank you
Levi
<A pleasure to chat with you. Bob Fenner>
Sick Fish? by Rob 1/9/08
Hello Wet Web Media
<Hello Rob,>
Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. I have a newly set up
freshwater community aquarium of 10 gallons.
<Adequate for Neons, marginally so for Guppies, but too small for Platies.
Please understand a 10 gallon tank is very difficult to stock, and one of the
worst tanks for beginners to start with. Size matters, and a beginner should
always choose a 20 gallon (or larger) aquarium.>
The aquarium has been in operation for about a week and contains 3 Platies, 3
Guppies, and originally 5 Neon Tetras (two are left) within the first 3 days or
so a white growth started to appear on the Platies sides and fins which could be
true fungus but I am unsure. Along with the white growths, red streaks are
starting to appear next to the growths.
This symptom could be a internal infection but I need a professional answer for
this one.
<Likely both Finrot and Fungus, which will often occur together in immature
tanks with poor water quality (almost certainly the case here). Use a proper
combination medication that treats both simultaneously (e.g. Maracyn or eSHa
2000, but NOT Melafix/Pimafix). Also monitor the nitrite level in the tank, as
it is ammonia and nitrite that are stressing the fish. If you can detect nitrite
above zero, then do a water change. While a tank is immature (that's the first
six weeks) it is a good idea to change 25% daily, at least for the first month.
Only when the tank is settled down can you relax and do the normal 25-50% water
change per week (in a small, difficult to keep aquarium like a 10-gallon system,
I'd HEARTILY recommend 50% water changes per week.>
Along with the red streaks the Platies gills are becoming red and appear almost
non-existent which could also mean a internal infection.
<Unlikely an internal infection. Much more like nitrite/ammonia poisoning.>
All of these symptoms together could mean that they received these diseases in
the pet shop but I am unsure of the origin.
<Forget it! Nothing to do with the pet store. These symptoms are 100% typical of
too many fish being added to too immature a tank that's receiving too few water
changes. Your fault, not the fish shop's.>
All of the fish are eating fine and their behavior is the same as I know them
by.
<While the fish are sick like this, don't feed at all. When the nitrite level is
zero, then start adding tiny amounts of food, literally one or two flakes,
crumbled.>
I added aquarium salt in the time of the set up of the tank and allowed it a few
days to normalize before adding fish.
<Did you read an aquarium book before starting? Please make an effort to do so.
Resting the tank for a few days achieves precisely nothing. Why should it?
There's no magic involved here: the bacteria in the filter grow when they
receive ammonia from livestock (or an inorganic source). If the tank is empty
and just sitting there, there's no ammonia, so the bacteria don't grow. Adding a
whole bunch of fish like you did certainly provides the ammonia, but the
bacteria population takes weeks to reach full capacity, so until then, the poor
fish are swimming about in an ammonia-ridden cess pool! Hence their deaths. This
is why when you "mature" an aquarium using fish, you start by adding just one or
two small species, and then a couple more a few weeks later, and so on across
the next few months. What you've done won't work. In addition, none of your fish
need salt. Who told you to add salt? While salt can have therapeutic value under
some situations, it isn't something you should add without thinking, and
certainly not something that needs to be added on a regular basis. Rather, you
should be monitoring water quality and chemistry using those test kits I hope
you bought (at least a pH and a nitrite test kit) and acting accordingly.>
I have consulted many sources and hope that the Platies sickness can be cured
with your consulting.
<Ultimately, yes, they can be cured, but depends entirely on whether you're
prepared to start keeping your fish properly or not. Your move.>
Thank you for your time.
<Not a problem, and hope this helps.>
Rob
<Cheers, Neale.>
Metaframe Aquariums, resale
of antiques! -11/18/07
Hello,
After doing several searches to no avail, I'm hoping you can help me. Recently
several people have offered to buy my 15 gallon Metaframe aquarium. It is in
great condition and is still currently in use, with its original stow a light
canopy. I've looked on eBay and have seen two currently listed, one 10 gallon
for $80 and an identical 10 gallon for $250 so I'm a little confused about its
actual worth.
Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Kate
<Hello Kate. To quote Margaret Thatcher, "something is worth what someone else
is willing to pay for it". This may not help you much, but there it is.
Personally, I'd spend next to no money on a 15 gallon tank. It's simply not
useful except for rearing baby fish or housing very tiny community fish or
shrimps. Every time I advise beginner aquarists, I always, always, ALWAYS tell
them to go for a 20 gallon tank upwards. Anything smaller can't be used to
properly maintain the sorts of fish regular aquarists like to keep, like
goldfish, guppies, angelfish and so on. Moreover, your sort of tank, with a
slate bottom and metal frame, just isn't a good long-term investment. These
tanks simply get increasingly more likely to leak as they age, and moving them
from one house to another is precisely the sort of thing that puts strains on
the joints speeding up this degradation. So while it may appeal as a collector's
item, as something a hobbyist should spend money on it makes no sense at all.
For less than $100 you can get an all-glass 20 gallon tank with lights, heater
and filter from a brand like Marineland that gives you a warranty as well as a
source of spare parts should things go wrong. Getting prices from eBay is not
always helpful, because by definition eBay exists to use the auction mode of
sale to drive prices up. Moreover, a lot of stuff never sells at its listed
price. Anyone who spends $80 on a second-hand metal-framed 10 gallon tank -- let
alone $250 -- is, in my opinion, out of their mind! I'm not really sure this is
what you wanted to hear, in which case I apologise, but we really aren't geared
to advise people on commercial or financial issues. Cheers, Neale.>
Is my aqua fizz creating too much bubbles for
my small fish bowl? – 07/23/07
Hi, I just got a small fish bowl with 3 fish in it. I also bought a small
aqua fizz air stone that I attached to an Elite 800 air pump. I am worried that
it is creating to much of a disturbance to my fish as they seem to fight to stay
away from it. Is this a problem? If so what can I use instead to give my 3 fish
air in such a small bowl.
Thank You, Joanna
<Hello Joanna. Keeping fish in bowls is a very VERY bad idea for all sorts of
reasons, not least of all the water is not filtered and the fish have no space
for swimming around in. Fish kept in bowls invariably stay sickly and die young.
It's cruel, it's a waste of money, and it doesn't share any of the best parts of
the hobby with you. So, rather than fussing about with airstones, which clearly
isn't working here, I'd encourage you to get an aquarium for your fish.
Goldfish, if that's what you have, are BIG animals and very messy, and need a 30
gallon aquarium, minimum. If you want a smaller aquarium, don't get goldfish,
get something smaller, like guppies or neon tetras. Please have a read Hope this
helps, Neale.>
Needing Upgrade advice. Acrylic/Glass, and cichlid sel. 3/1/07
I currently have a 29 gallon and a 10 gallon fresh water setup. I was
thinking about shutting down the 10 gallon and replacing it with a larger tank
40 to 50 gallons. What in your opinion are the pros and cons of an acrylic
versus glass tank?
<Mmm, acrylic hold their value longer... are not nearly as likely to break or
leak... but do scratch easier than glass... though are easier to remove
scratches from... Acrylic are better thermal insulators... look nicer IMO>
I was going to stay with fresh water and look into getting some cichlids. Any
advice about these as far as hardiness would be helpful also. Thanks, Chuck
<The third largest family of fishes... some very tough indeed... others very
much not so... Perhaps you want to investigate a given biotope... a part of an
area of the world... micro-habitat... Or center on a key species or two... See
the Net, books re... or write us back with more specific questions...
Bob Fenner>
GOLDFISH (NOR ANY FISH, IN MY OPINION) DO NOT BELONG IN BOWLS!
1/23/07
Hi Jorie,
<Hi again>
I'm afraid my fish lives in a bowl.
<Ok, this is not good for any fish, but especially a very messy goldfish (or
two). Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm. Another good
goldfish resource here:
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/ >
We don't use the term gallons but I think its about 4-5 liters.
<Just about...WAY too small for even one goldfish. One fancy goldie needs at
least 10 gal. of water, plus proper filtration and regular water changing. Do
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfiltration.htm >
I think that's one gallon.
<I am under the impression that 1 liter = (approx.) 0.26 US gallons. Even if
your bowl is 5 liters, that's about 1.3 US gallons...unsuitable for any fish.>
Well a regular bowl.
<Terrible. Read here; even though its an article about Bettas, the same
rationale applies:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm >
I don't know how much ammonia the water has but I know we have hard water (I
hope you understand my point).
<Ammonia and alkalinity (hardness of water) are not the same thing. Ammonia is
a toxin and cannot be present in any amount in a fish's water. Here's a good
article explaining "ammonia, nitrites and nitrates and how they interact to
establish the necessary nitrogen cycle in an aquarium (which, is virtually
impossible to do in a 1.3 US gal. fish bowl) :
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm >
Oh, when I asked a friend who has some experience at this about my problem he
said that its because I had different water from the pet shop, or the fish was
sick, or he had a shock.
<Bottom line, if your friend has any reasonable amount of experience, he would
have told you that you need an aquarium of at least 10 US gallons (just under 38
liters), with biological and mechanical filtration. Also, you should be doing
regular water changes, matching the pH and temp. of the "old" vs. the "new"
water as closely as possible. What your friend tells you is all true and
possible, but the key issue is that your fish is essentially swimming in its own
waste, in highly polluted water, and this will eventually kill him.>
He doesn't believe that the other goldfish was attacking the fantail.
<Well, if I recall correctly, you saw a "bite" in the fish that died? Something
had to have caused this...>
Oh, and one more question. My goldfish is always at the surface for air so I
want to buy an air pump.
<GET RID OF THE BOWL. Get a reasonable sized aquarium, as mentioned above. If
you want two goldfish, you'll need at least an 80 liter tank...>
Can I put one in the bowl?
<You could, but this won't resolve your polluted water problem. Invest in a
larger tank instead.>
If yes, do you have some models to recommend.
<No, I recommend a bigger aquarium. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm >
Thanks you so much for your time. Sorry for all this questions.
<Don't apologize for asking, but please understand, this truly is an
essential. Your one fish likely died from poor environmental conditions, and
your other one will likely perish as well. It is cruel and inhumane to keep any
fish in bowls, esp. goldfish, who are notoriously messy. Not to mention there
are great temperature fluctuations in small bowls, little oxygen content, etc...
Unfortunately, you don't have the luxury of taking all the time in the world to
read the mounds of info. on proper fishkeeping; do your fish a favor, take my
word on it, buy a larger aquarium with filtration, and get your fish in their
ASAP. All the while, be doing your reading, and you'll soon see why I'm so
concerned for the health of your fish.
Best regards,
Jorie>
Insurance 9/21/06
Hello,
I have recently moved into a new house, and my landlady is
quite paranoid about my 120 gallon freshwater aquarium breaking. One
of the stipulations of my lease is that I need to get renter's
insurance that should cover damage, should the tank leak.
<This is a good idea... for both parties... for all your belongings>
I am, however, having a challenge finding such coverage. Can you
point the way for me to seek any providers for this type of
coverage? Thank you, Bill Day, Waterville, Maine.
<Easy enough to do... with a "Yellow Page" or such phone directory
or the Net... contact insurance companies in your area... and ask if
they offer Renter's Insurance... and if their policies cover
aquariums. Bob Fenner>
Supporting A 20 Gallon Tank 9/9/06
Greetings all, My first (and most -pressing-) question has to do with
the position of my tank. My boyfriend and I live in a small one room
apartment, we came across a 20 gallon tank out with the trash one
day and decided to give it a new home. Currently,
we have it set up on a sturdy dresser (there is also a piece of
cardboard beneath the tank), the dresser faces towards the door but we have
the tank set up so the "front" of it faces our all-purpose
eating-sitting-sleeping area. However, the tank is about two inches longer
than the dresser is wide, and so is unsupported for about an inch on either
side. It has been full of water for about two weeks now, and so far so good,
but the visual thought of the seams giving out from stress are really cringe
inducing. Do you think this is an "okay" setup, or should we really
reposition it so that the entire tank is supported? (I know of course the
latter would be preferable, but that would put the tank at a really crummy
angle for observation of the fish.) If you think this isn't "okay" could you
say whether it's an inevitability or just a not entirely remote possibility?
< Remove the tank and place a piece of 3/4 plywood under the entire tank and
than place in back on the dresser. This Tank with water will weight close to
200 lbs. The tank should be OK as is but I would feel better with a little
extra support on the end pieces. The plywood will also help protect the top
of the dresser. Some dressers are made of particle board and not solid wood.
I would start looking for another stand if your dresser is made from the
particle board.>
Secondly, I have a question about our fish. After cleaning the tank (just
with a new sponge, and soaking it in water for a day), setting up the
filter/airstone/heater/gravel/etc., and letting it run for about a week we
went out and got three scissortail rasboras to keep in it. This was three
days ago. (These seemed like a good candidate to survive the cycling.) They
range in size from about an inch and a half, to 3/4s of an inch. The two
larger fish have seemed pretty much content, actively swimming and the like.
However, after maybe 6 hours the smallest fish retreated to a corner of the
tank. If the other fish swim over to him he either ignores them, or darts
over to the other side of the tank. He also comes out briefly after the
lights are turned off for the night, but goes back to the corner within a
few minutes. He comes out to eat, and seems to get his fair share, and
otherwise looks healthy. I'm wondering if because of his relatively small
size the cycling process/stress of transportation/some other factor is
hitting him harder than the larger fish. Or, if he's perhaps just trying to
separate himself from the establishment of the pecking order. (Initially the
other two fish chased each other, and each claimed a nip from the other's
tail. The chasing seems to have stopped, and the little fish still has very
nice full tail fins.) Or, if perhaps there just simply aren't enough fish
around for his schooling instinct to kick in. Other information that may be
useful to know: we have (assumedly) soft water with a pH (that has remained
steady) of about 7.3. In our excitement we neglected to test the water from
the pet shop, but since it is just around the corner we assume it was
similar. We took about 45 minutes to acclimate them by adding doses of water
from the fish tank into the bag. We have been changing a gallon of the water
daily. There are two large, two medium, and three small fake plants in the
tank, along with a large rock (bought at the pet store), and another largish
decoration. These are mostly oriented towards the front and the back,
hopefully providing plenty of both cover and swimming room. We have been
feeding them about 8 tetra flakes daily (two feedings of 4 each). Sorry for
such a long-winded explanation for one little rasbora, but it would do my
heart good to not loose any fish due to preventable circumstances.
< Schooling fish like these prefer to be in groups of at least six. After
cycling you can add some more fish and he will feel better and come out
more.>
One last question, if you will. We definitely plan to add more rasboras,
knowing well that three isn't a proper school (not to mention that I find
them delightfully amusing). I have read that if schooling fish are
introduced singly to a group they sometimes get unduly harassed. For this
reason, we are reluctant to add them one by one. Also, we anticipate the
need for some sort of "janitorial" fish. In your opinion what should take
precedence, reducing the bioload, or getting these guys into a proper
school? (Of course we don't plan to add anything until we test and find
ammonia levels to be 0).
< Get the school up and running first, but really you could add the others
at anytime as well.>
Finally I would like to thank you guys for your wonderfully informative
site, and also your time in reading (and answering) this letter. It is
greatly (greatly) appreciated!-Krisi
< Thanks for your kind words.-Chuck>
Plans for Upgrading FW Tank 7/12/06
Hi guys.
<Hi>
First allow me to thank you for your very informative website, and
for your dedication in assisting others in the hobby.
<Thanks for the thanks.>
Currently, I have a 55-gallon freshwater planted tank w/ a few fish. I am
interested in upgrading to a 75 or possibly 90-gallon tank.
<Nice>
The emphasis will be on keeping freshwater tropical fish such as discus, and
on simplifying (if possible) routine maintenance operations. First decision:
material selection. Here is what I have gathered so far concerning the pros
& cons of acrylic vs. glass aquariums: acrylic aquariums, in general, are:
1. clearer than glass aquariums, 2. lighter than glass aquariums, 4. more
flexible than glass aquariums (is this really desirable if you don’t live in
So Cal?)
<In some applications where physical motion is harder to avoid, often in
public settings.>
4. better insulators against temperature fluctuation, 5. more expensive than
their glass counterparts, and 6. much easier to scratch. There doesn't seem
to be a consensus as to which material is clearly the best choice.
<Neither one is clearly better than the others. Also with some of the high
grade glass now available the clarity of glass tanks can be as good/better
than acrylic, but at a price of course.>
Well, what about tank failure?
<Neither is really failure prone if properly set up, but glass is less
forgiving.>
Most of what I have read implicates glass aquariums as being more likely to
fail due to their seams.
<If improperly setup/stored.>
However, I have also read that this is not true. What is your opinion on
this issue?
<Really, as far as basic quality, six of one, half a dozen of the other.>
Can you tell me if bowfront tanks are any more likely than traditional
rectangular tanks to leak?
<Mine never have.>
Are you aware of any pros/cons regarding bowfront tanks (m ore difficult to
clean, etc)?
<Honestly, I wouldn't buy another. They look nice, but the magnet scrapers
don't work real well on them, and you get some weird blind spots. Not
terrible, but I have become a fan of plain old rectangular tank over time.>
Since I said that I would like to simplify routine maintenance
operations, do you have any suggestions for me?
<Still need to do all the basics, water changes, filter cleaning, etc.>
I would like to make water changes easier to perform, especially if I go to
a larger tank. I currently use a gravel vac to remove water, and replace it
with R/O water (algae gets a foothold and never goes away if tap water is
used!) Would it be beneficial to get a pre-drilled tank and use an overflow
and sump, or are these only for marine applications?
<Often are used, nice for hiding equipment, good wet dries, but really won't
make anything easier.>
If it would be beneficial, then what are the risks of tank water draining
out on the floor?
<Can definitely happen, testing, good design necessary to minimize these
risks.>
Lastly, my interest in upgrading to a larger tank was recently
peaked when I viewed the tank backgrounds made by Pangea Rocks @
www.aquarium-background.com. My current tank is not wide enough to install
such a background in. Do you have any feedback on these products from
current U.S. customers?
<Haven't seen these before. Look nice, but doesn't say what they
are made of. Also have to worry about detritus getting stuck in/behind the
background. Try some BBs to see if anyone has used them.>
Thanks in advance for your reply.
<Sure>
<Chris>
What about "Top Fin" aquariums - 5/25/2006
Hey there WWM crew!
<<Hey Linda.>>
I've read through your site and could not find any opinions on the Top Fin
aquarium, sold thru PetSmart. I cannot find anything on the net as to who
manufactures these aquariums.
<<I do believe it is Marineland or Perfecto>>
Is this aquarium, to your knowledge, equal to the All Glass or a step
below? (reason why I'm asking is that I bought a 75 gal. last week and am
hoping it is a decent tank, although, am certainly not against returning it
and buying an All Glass or even an Oceanic. Most of the fish stores in GA
have All Glass but liked the stand so much at PetSmart, that I went for the
tank, also.)
<<I have a 47-gallon X-tall by Top Fin, and I love it. It is gorgeous,
sturdy and I have never had a problem. Buy with confidence!
Thank you. Linda
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
A cruel tank - 05/23/2006
<<Tom here, Martin.>>
Well, I don't know what will become of this e-mail, but I have to alert
someone because I feel something is cruel and everyone should be warned...
everyone who is into this hobby, that is. I came across this guy on e-bay
selling tanks that have the following dimensions: 68" high, with a front of
12" wide and a side of about 8" deep making the footprint, or worse, the
SURFACE of this five foot deep tank less than a square foot! I am no expert
but YIKES is all I can say. The guy has pix of goldfish and such in there,
and even says that this is scientific and educational for the kiddies, and
how everyone will Ohh and ahh when they see your tank. I wanted to
immediately go report this to P.E.T.A or something... Am I wrong to be this
angry? Am I overreacting?
<<Your reaction, and perhaps anger, are certainly understandable. To add a
little perspective, however, is this fellow worse than any company, or
individual, that peddles an inferior product, i.e. a product that doesn't do
what is claimed and, therefore, places the health and well-being of our pets
at risk? The guy is, at best, a moron but he won't be able to peddle his
death traps to knowledgeable people.>>
Could you please warn people of the detriments of owning this tank and the
effects trying to cultivate life in that particular environment would have?
<<You just warned folks for us, Martin. Any aquarium with insufficient
surface area to allow for gas exchange/oxygen uptake (and this one takes the
cake!) should be shunned by anyone looking to keep fish. Simply put, the
larger the surface area of the top of the tank, the better. For those who
like Rules of Thumb, 12-20 square inches of surface area per inch of
adult-sized fish should be used as a rough guideline, high end being
better.>>
Otherwise I may go to his factory with a heat-gun and melt all of his
acrylic tanks in the name of all the merciless pet fish murder he's
inflicting from cheese-bay. I didn't provide a link because I didn't know
the legal ramifications and what not, but he's not hard to find under their
search engine, searching for "square aquariums".
<<Thanks, Martin, for sharing this with us and our readers. You've done
everyone a service today. Tom>>
My poor harlequin is breathing from the surface!? Inherent BiOrb
limitations, problems - 03/26/2006
Dear WWM,
<Molly>
I am having some trouble with my relatively young tank. It has been up and
running for about 3 months now (not including the pre-fish
cycling period).
It is a BiUbe.
<BiOrb?>
I have 6 x harlequin rasboras, 1 x male Betta splendens, 2 x smallish bottom
feeders.
I have followed all the instructions on setting up a tank religiously and all my
readings are always perfect -except for nitrate (NO3)
which always seems quite high -have been doing water changes to bring it down
(is coming down slowly). It's in the 50-70 range which my test kit says is bad
but not toxic. Is this right?
<Not correct. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwnitrates.htm
and the linked files above>
Everyone seems happy and fine although the tank gets dirty VERY quickly.
<These units have this trend/trait... unfortunately "kill off" much livestock
and hobbyists consequently...>
I clean the top of the filter tube and the rock I have when I do water changes
but they, and my plants (not live) become grubby
very quickly -a few days tops. It is a green sludge, sometimes brown.
Is this algae?
<A mix of this and bacteria mainly>
Why is it becoming so dirty so quickly?
<Inadequate filtration, circulation... the unit itself>
Should I change the filter? Or am I feeding too much (once a day a pinch
of flakes which all get eaten up)?
<Both changes would likely help>
-Perhaps I should also mention that during my pre-fish cycling period I put in
some live plants but they kept going brown and dying so I only have plastic now.
Any ideas why?
<All sorts... posted on WWM>
However, this evening I noticed that one of my harlequins seems to be breathing
from the surface. He goes up for air for about 10-20 seconds, swims
around for a few seconds then goes back for more. No one else is behaving oddly.
I am very worried for him. What could it be?
<Lack of oxygen, pollution... see WWM re... real trouble once again with this
product>
My temp is 78-80.
Many thanks for your wonderful website,
Molly,
London.
<Please use/read it... and soon. Bob Fenner>
FW zee plungee! 3/24/06
Greetings Crew.
<Lisa>
I'm a new fish mom. I have a Betta in a 1-gal. mini bow tank. He used to be in
a 1.77 gal. Marina tank, and sat on the bottom, very still, wouldn't eat while I
was around. He seems really happy in the 1-gal -- the light, for one thing,
makes a big difference, and now he swims around in front of me and eats.
I have a 2.5 gal. mini bow tank right next to it (the beta watches but doesn't
flare), with 3 mollies (one black, one black potbellied, one gold dust) and 1
Mickey mouse platy in it. They're healthy, they get along well, and they love
to be fed -- they get very active whenever I come near the tank (I think they
think they're dogs -- trying to teach the black molly to do tricks). They've
been swimming on both the bottom and the top, and they like to hide near the
filter. Lately they seem a little more aggressive with one another, and they've
been spending more time at the top.
<Good observations... happens, natural, with growth, crowding... aggression>
But again, it's usually just when I'm in front of the tank (when I watch from a
distance, they're fine) and they're not gasping for air -- they look like
they're trolling for food. I've wondered if I need to feed them a little more
-- the black molly is pretty aggressive at feeding time -- but I don't want to
overfeed. Their mouths aren't stretching and they don't appear to be in
distress, but I'm worried that I'm crowding them.
<You are, will be>
I do a 30%-50% water change weekly, and rinse off the gravel, etc. (Have only
had them for about a month or so.) The water is clear -- only slightly cloudy a
couple of times after a change -- and smells fine. They're hardy little guys --
after a bad earlier spell with goldies I'm terrified that I'm going to hurt them
or make them sick. Should I just shut up and go get them a 5-gal tank, or am I
worried for nothing?
<Ahhh! The bigger the better... In time, even larger. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Many thanks.
Lisa
FW zee plungee! II 3/24/06
Thank you!!! You couldn't have made that any easier. Heading to the pet
store tonight/tomorrow for a new tank to bring in to the office to get
started/conditioned for about a week before I bring them in. Until I get them
situated will do more frequent water changes and may add a second little sponge
filter I have, just to try to keep the water as clean as possible.
Have a great weekend.
<Thank you for sharing. BobF>
Custom Tank Design Questions 3/3/06
Basically, my wife and I are building our dream house out on about five and
a half acres in West Virginia, a few miles west of Martinsburg.
<How nice!>
We're going with a very energy efficient design, incorporating passive solar,
earth sheltered, solar hot water, rain catchment, in floor radiant heating and
more.
<Sounds good>
One of the hobbies I've had for a very long time has been keeping aquariums of
different kinds. I've done everything from that 10g starter
tank my mom got me when I was 11, up through a hand built 575g coral propagation
tank that lived in the basement of my house.
<And will likely stay there!>
With this new house, both my wife and I have decided that we would like to take
the chance to design a tank into the home. And based on my experiences with
different types of tanks, I've decided to go with a fresh water, planted tank.
<Will be gorgeous>
I thought about some of the nicer tanks I'd seen with that theme from my Takashi
Amano books, the displays at the Baltimore Aquarium, and from
other hobbyists. But the one thank that stuck out in my mind was the display at
the Barnes and Noble at the Power Plant in the Inner Harbor.
<Mmm, haven't seen this>
The feeling of being under the surface of the water, and the extremely wide
vista of that tank make for a spectacular experience. I don't think
that I have quite enough pull with my wife to convince her I need a seventeen
foot long tank just yet, but I have gotten her very excited
about replicating a somewhat smaller version.
What I am thinking about, is basically taking that tank, and chopping it in half
lengthwise, to end up with an 10'x5.5'x4'x rectangular tank.
The current idea is to pour the tank out of concrete, leaving a hole for a piece
of 2.5" thick acrylic for the viewing window, which would measure
8'x5'.
<... I would aim for something with less depth, vertical ratio... easier to work
on (to put it mildly), light and will look nicer if a bit more horizontal
aspected>
It would rest on the inside edge of the concrete wall, in a special ledge that
would be poured all around the tank. It would then be siliconed into place. The
inside of the concrete tank would be coated several times with epoxy to ensure
that it is water tight, and of course, the window sealed with as much silicone
as we could throw at it.
<Not necessary... just a good solid bead to nestle in>
The outside of the tank would be dressed in a stamped stone concrete to make it
fit into the decor of our home.
<Very nice touch>
The walls would be extended to allow for filtration, co2 injection, and other
equipment, as well as for a ladder to access the top of the tank. A 2 foot wide
catwalk will be
suspended so that I can clean the front glass with a scraper on a stick,
<Very hard to see...>
or, when I'm feeling particularly frisky, by me in a bathing suit.
<A good plan...>
Lighting will be supplied by four, 250w 10kk MH bulbs, supplemented with
fluorescents as needed.
<... not near enough light for this depth... I would count on 1,000 watt MH's
(yes) if you go with five feet depth>
The whole room will be vented with a dedicated heat exchanger system, and the
tank itself heated by sufficient wattage on a temperature controller. Trace
element and
mineral dosing will be handled as needed. Access to the room will be from a door
in the family room, which is behind the intended space where the tank will go.
I'm planning water and
drains to be plumbed into the room for RODI evap. replacement, and general
maintenance.
<Good... and maybe a shower for your use (not a joke), and a sink...>
Obviously this tank is intended to be a showpiece for the entire room, if not
the entire house. The biology, and decor of the tank will
attempt to copy that of the B&N tank, with faux rock shelving providing
different levels for planting, sunken roots, and limbs, and a general
African biotope for the plants and fish.
<Nice... perhaps the Barnes and Noble folks would allow you a glimpse of their
back-room area for input, inspiration...>
The questions I have at this stage of the game pertain to the engineering
aspects of the tank. In particular, how thick a piece of
acrylic would I need going with the viewing window of 8'x5'.
<Inch and a half... two inches if you can afford it>
If I reduced the height of the window to 4', would it make a significant
difference in the thickness of the material required?
<Oh yes... and cut the cost by about half... 1 1/4" would do here>
How thick should the concrete walls be that make up the sides of the aquarium?
The bottom?
<Depending on the mix, use of steel rod, wire reinforcement, 4 to 8 inches.>
Given that the final weight of the tank will end up around 15000 pounds, how
thick does the slab under the tank need to be?
<Mmm, would support all around the edge with filled-cell block, make eight
inches>
(current thickness is 10" + 4" of concrete for the floor).
<About right>
Thank you for taking the time to go over these questions. I greatly appreciate
the opportunity to 'pick the brain' of experts in this way.
Sincerely,
Brian Robak
PS Here are the websites:
http://www.brianrobak.com/gallery/NewHouse/ <--- for plans for the new
house
http://www.brianrobak.com/gallery/FishTanks/ <--- for my fish tanks
Please note that almost all pictures can be "blown up" by clicking on the "full
size" link, found on the upper right of the light blue bar.
Also, many of the albums have sub albums, so be sure to click on them a few
levels deep to get the full pictures.
<Thank you for sharing your dream/s with us. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Am I overcrowding my tank? 02/12/06
Hello,
I'm kinda new to the whole fish keeping experience, and would like your help.
I have a 2 1/2 gallon tank with two female balloon mollies and 4 ghost shrimp.
My question is are my fish safe from over-crowding?
<Mmm, not really... small volumes are very easy to "get away" with pollution,
vacillating water quality...>
and if possible is it okay for me to have one more balloon molly?
<I would not>
I've been doing a bit of research and what I can gather the general rule is a
fish of one inch for every gallon,
<Better one cubic inch per every 3-5 gallons>
but I've read cases where people had more fishes in their tank than they had
gallons and they were having no problems. I would also like to know if I can
feed my mollies any vegetables like say: lettuce or cucumber. Any suggestions
you can give me will be much appreciated.
Thank you,
Marissa
<Good question... but your chances of trouble increase tremendously with adding
more life to small tanks. Bob Fenner>
Nano v. Eclipse 2/1/06
Nice site. I was thinking of getting a 12 gallon freshwater tank for my
office. I'm looking for the least amount of hassle.
I stumbled upon the Eclipse System 12 and the Nano Cube 12 Gallon. Is one
"better" than the other?
<Mmm, yes... in general the Eclipse is better for freshwater set-up "types" and
the Nano for marine...>
I will get hearty fish, and whatever extras (like a heater) which will make the
whole experience easier and nicer. I may also get one for my home, and may end
up getting a larger set up in future.
Thanks!
<Ah yes. Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Nano v. Eclipse 2/3/06
Sorry to be a pest, but I have to ask why? Nano cube cost a bit more, but
it's made of glass and comes with a pump. I am only starting my fish
education, but those seem like good things that the Eclipse doesn't have?
<The Eclipse units have less capacity for modification for marine types of
filtration (protein skimmers require cutting the top, and the "wheel" is
inadequate... often, for biological filtration), the Nano's have more
flexibility for upgrading lighting... all in all making them more adaptable to
marine use. They are better for most freshwater applications as the top covers
most all... jumping, evaporation...Bob Fenner>
Reptile Tank Being Used For Fish 1/21/06
I just got a used 55 gal tank from a pet shop. It was for reptiles. I washed
it, scrubbed it, and set it up and all is fine. After filling it I
noticed that the tank has started to bow out and the brace that runs across the
top has split and is now almost and inch gap. This really
sucks!!! Can this be fixed? I am thinking of getting a large clamp from the
hardware store and clamping it back together across the top. I am
using two lids to cover it , so the clamp over the middle wouldn't be in the
way. Anything you could tell me would be of great help to me.
<Many terrariums are made of thinner glass than those tanks used for aquariums.
Drop the water level to about half and clamp the front and back together. Clean
the areas under the lips in the front and back portion of the tank. Silicon in a
six inch wide piece of glass to be used for the new brace between the front and
the back . give it a couple days to set up and refill the tank. It should work
as good as new.-Chuck> <<RMF is nervous re this suggestion/practice>>
Converting Saltwater to Freshwater; Donations via Pay Pal 01-06-06
Thanks for all that you do.
I have approached aquarium keeping backwards, having started with
saltwater. The inhabitants from my 12 gallon with the Eclipse 1 hood have all
(both) been moved to my 55 gallon. I would like to go to freshwater, planted
tank with the smaller aquarium. I want to be sure I am not missing anything in
the conversion (or doing too much).
I will pull the liverock and crushed coral substrate and replace with
stone. I will also remove the coralline algae that has built up on the back
glass (no chemicals). I also plan to replace the 50/50 bulb with an aquatic
plant bulb. My main question involves the bio-wheel. I assume the beneficial
bacteria is not the same and it will need to be cleaned (or replaced). Is this
as simple as rinsing in hot water or should some bleach be involved?
<You can place the bio-wheel in a bleach and water solution over night. Then
rinse well and place the wheel in a freshwater bath with a dechlorinating agent.
This will ensure a fresh start.>
I am planning to keep a small school of Cardinal Tetras and 1 or 2 larger fish
(suggestions?) with 6-8 small plants.
Finally, I would like to do what I can to support the site. I will be selling
some aquatic items on EBay and would like to donate the proceeds. Is there a
method in place to donate via Pay Pal?
<We do have a collection site through Amazon.com. You can find the link at the
bottom of our home page. Thank you for your question and your support. Travis>
Thanks.
Nano Cube: Freshwater Application 1/8/06
Hello! Happy New Year!
<Hi and happy new year to you as well.>
I'd like to set up a second fresh water tank and was wondering what you thought
of the JBJ 24 gallon cube.
<For freshwater I think they are great.>
I did a search and found them discussed for saltwater but not fresh.
<Yes, they are more heavily marketed to Marine keepers, and in my opinion this
is quite unfortunate. The 'Cubes are much more suited to freshwater aquaria than
marine aquaria due to their compact size and lack of a protein skimmer.>
I would like to have two rams, a small school of cardinal tetras, some plants
and maybe some Corys.
<Sounds good.>
I'd like to have a larger tank (what I really want is a 180 gallon biotope) but
I rent and only have a small space available.
<I understand, but wow a 180 planted, that would look sweet.>
Here is a link to the specs: http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_24g_nanocube.html
<I'm quite familiar with them, we get a lot of 'Cube questions.>
I haven't seen any discussion about them for fresh water, and was wondering if
it would be a good choice.
<Yes but switch out the stock 50/50 light bulbs for 6,500K or 10,000K.>
As always, thank you so much for your help!
<Anytime.>
Michelle
<Adam J.>
Re: JBJ Cube Freshwater - 01/12/2006
Hi,
<Hey Michelle.>
Thanks for your reply! Yes, 180 gallon would be sweet!
<Yes we all want bigger tanks it seems, no matter how big our current system
is.>
I'm glad to here that you like the JBJ cube.
<I wouldn't go that far, I could think of some significant changes I would make
if I were the designer, however I wouldn't say its "bad" either, just has room
for improvement like most things.>
A few follow up questions.
<Mmm-hmm.>
Would the filtration that comes with the 24 gallon unit be all that is needed?
<I would replace the stock pump, with something of similar size like a
Maxi-Jet.>
To do plants, would I need to inject CO2 because of the power compacts? I'd
rather not.
<Depends on the plant in question, but you can get away without an injection
system.>
Is the 18" length really okay for a pair Rams?
<Probably would prefer larger quarters as adults.>
And finally, is it true they leak a lot?
<I have heard reports that they, do (leak). Though the one I used to keep did
not. I will say that the problems I have seen reported to JBJ were handled very
well by the company. Good luck, Adam J.>
>I did a search and found them discussed for saltwater but not fresh.
><Yes, they are more heavily marketed to Marine keepers, and in my opinion this
is quite unfortunate. The 'Cubes are much more suited to freshwater aquaria than
marine aquaria due to their compact size and lack of a protein skimmer.>
I had a 20 gallon nano reef for about two years, I never want to do that
again. It was a really nice tank, but I was so burnt out by the end. I was
checking twice a day to make sure everything was okay. If I have a salt tank
ever again, it has to be bigger. Right now I have a 10 gallon low tec planted
tank that has been running for about a year and a half, it is so much easier and
it looks nice. I would never go back to a small salt tank.
I do have another question for the fresh tanks. I've never had any of the algae
eating shrimp. I heard something about them attacking and eating fish, is that
true? Also, how does one provide a safe place for them to molt? Do I need to
put in iodine when they do? Will they be okay with a pH of 8.0?
One last question, I just picked up an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals carbonate
hardness test kit (and general hardness is on order). Is the drop that changes
the color from blue to yellow suppose to be the last one, or do you keep putting
in drops until the yellow is bright (I found it to be just one more drop)? I
hope that question makes since.
Once again, thanks for your help!
Michelle
Stainless steel in freshwater aquariums 1/1/06
Hello,
I am currently building an experimental 55 gallon aquarium with an integral
under gravel sump. I would like to use stainless steel for the floor/sump but
I'm concerned about contamination ( the surface area of exposed steel will be
fairly large). Can austenitic stainless steel be used in freshwater
aquariums? If so, which types? Is there any known resource for this type of
information? If direct exposure is a taboo, how well does powder coating
fare? Any information would be appreciated.
>> Dear Don,
If you have a freshwater tank, you could use stainless steel, but with the cost
it would certainly be cheaper to use just about any other material such as
plastic, glass, acrylic etc. To be sure you would have to use surgical grade
stainless steel - if the steel you are using oxidizes it is not good for the
fish. To be honest I would advise against it.
Good Luck, Oliver
Aquarium brands/backgrounds 11/24/05
Hello. I've got a question regarding fish tanks and backgrounds. I'm
interested in purchasing a 100+ gallon aquarium for a Tanganyikan community
tank, but I'm not sure which brand aquariums are best.
<Opinions vary... but all the major brands are warranted, worthy. For glass I
like the Perfecto, All-Glass and Oceanic lines... for acrylic, the
SeaClear/Tradewind/CASCO, TruVu/Aquaplex and Tenecor lines...>
One of the LFS sells Jebo aquariums. Do you know anything about them?
<Yes>
Do they have a good reputation? What other brands might you recommend looking
at?
<Mmm, more mixed than others listed above>
I haven't yet decided between glass and acrylic, so I'm open to suggestions.
<Mmm, see WWM re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm
and the linked files above>
My second question is about Pangea backgrounds.
<Gorgeous>
They look beautiful, but I'm wondering whether you've heard positives or
negatives about them. Thanks so much for your feedback!
<Have seen these at trade shows and set-up around the world. Quite sturdy,
stunningly beautiful.
http://www.aquarium-background.com/
Bob Fenner>
More Myths About Livestock Scratching Acrylic Tanks - 11/18/05
I recently bought a 220gal Tenecor tank (72X24X24) with the Simplicity Plus
system with the intention of setting up a FOWLR system. I originally wanted to
buy a shark, but after reading your site, I realized that this tank is simply
too small for one.
<<Yes, and shaped wrong too.>>
I would like to put a couple of triggers in though, maybe a Blue Throat and a
Picasso.
<<Cool! I have a Blue Throat in my Tenecor 375.>>
The guy at my LFS said that triggers sometimes scrape their teeth along the
sides of the tank, and since this is an acrylic tank, I thought I'd better
check. I've never read about this behavior, have you?
<<Nope...probably falls in to the same category as the stories about the
Ctenochaetus genus of tangs scratching acrylic tanks with their teeth...mostly
wives tales. >>
<<Did you bring this up with your wife? MH>>
I think you need not worry...and believe me when I say...YOU will put far more
scratches in the tank than any fish!>>
Thanks!
Robert in Texas
<<Welcome, EricR in South Carolina>>
>Mmm, do agree with the hobbyists causing more scratches... but have seen
trigger-made scrapes in acrylic... and a pleco-destroyed one recently. RMF<
Fishbowls banned! (In Rome) 10/25/05
CNN just ran a story on fishbowls being banned in Italy and I thought you
might find it interesting!
ROME, Italy (Reuters) --
" The city of Rome has banned goldfish bowls, which animal rights activists say
are cruel, and has made regular dog-walks mandatory in the Italian capital, the
town's council said on Tuesday.
The classic spherical fish bowls are banned under a new by-law which also stops
fish or other animals being given away as fairground prizes. It comes after a
national law was passed to allow jail sentences for people who abandon cats or
dogs." Here's the link to the full article:
http://www.cnn.com/2005/WORLD/europe/10/25/italy.fishbowls.reut/index.ht
<Thank you for this. BobF>
Small Tanks, Small Fish? - 08/04/2005
Hi, WWM crew!
<Hi, Jennifer! Sabrina with you, today!>
Since becoming a devoted fan of your site, ;-)
<Yay!>
I have upgraded the size of all of my tanks to a 10 gallon minimum. I'm now
wondering if the old tanks (a 2.5 and a 5 gallon) can serve any purpose aside
from be used as hospital tanks.
<Oh yes, absolutely.>
What is your opinion regarding the ethics of keeping a fish (or other creature)
in a tank this small?
<Provided the creature in question is suitable for a small tank, my opinion is
quite positive.>
I enjoy having life on my desk at work, but fear it's quality of life will not
be very good if it is confined to such a small place.
<Understandable.>
Am I being overly sensitive?
<Nope. Just a conscientious aquarist!>
I would greatly appreciate your opinion!
<Alrighty.... *Assuming* we're talking freshwater, here, you have PLENTY of
options. I would urge you to consider the 2.5 gallon tank for a mini planted
aquarium.... They *do* make fluorescent lights for 2.5g tanks, and plants
suited to this would be java moss, java fern, Bolbitis fern, and Anubias sp. (A.
nana or A. nana "petite" would be a good choice for a very small tank). For
livestock, cherry shrimp would be ideal. These are becoming more and more
available in the hobby, so hopefully they would be somewhat easy to find - they
will even breed in a tank of this size. Otherwise, many people keep a Betta in
a tank of this size, and they do indeed often seem to be quite content. Another
fish option would be scarlet Badis badis (actually Dario dario, now), as these
fish don't grow much larger than a centimeter in length. Heterandria formosa
are a tiny livebearing fish that do well in relatively small tanks - great for
the 5g, but maybe not the 2.5g. I have also kept and bred peacock gudgeons in a
5.5g tank.... no other fish with them, though. Trichopsis pumila is a tiny
gourami that, in a well planted 5.5g tank, does quite well. Really, there are a
lot of tiny options out there for ya!>
Thank you! -Jennifer
<And thank you for writing in! Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Glue smell in New tank 7/7/05
Hello Everyone,
<Bryan>
I recently bought a new 25 gallon tall aquarium from PetSmart. Well it's been
sitting on my new stand for a few days so I finally put some gravel in it and
filled it up. My problem is that there is now a GLUE like smell coming from the
tank.
<?>
Right now the temp is about 90+ do to the fact I filled it up with zero fish in
it. I expect for it to level out in a few days and then see if I needed a
heater.
<You will if you're keeping tropical animals... important that the temperature
not fluctuate much, keep warm>
The rocks inside the tank were picked off the ground outside from a previous
"dump" of another aquarium but were scrubbed with hot water. I'm really baffled
by this and am curious what is going on. Please help.
Bryan, WA
<I would empty this tank and re-fill it... wait a few days, see if this odor
persists... You did rinse it out before initially filling? I might try a "test
fish" once the system is cycled... Bob Fenner>
Tank Too Small?
Hi. I have a small 3 gallon Eclipse tank that I got to hold some tetras.
After they all died I went back to the store and they gave me a small African
cichlid (I think - it is blue with black vertical stripes and is about 2" long).
I have no other fish in there. I have had it for 1 day. It is swimming around a
lot, going up and down the glass, followed by lulls. It is not eating much
although I saw it gobble a few floating pellets I put in there but not the
flakes. I read that cichlids need lots of room and now I am wondering if I have
doomed this little guy from the start. Any advice on how to keep it alive? Also
I have 7.0 pH balancer but I heard cichlids need more alkaline water.
Thanks, Bob
<Yeah, you are correct to be concerned. Three gallons is too small for him. And
these Rift Lake cichlids like a high pH and very hard water. I would return the
fish or invest in a tank around 20 gallons. There are water additives that will
give you Rift conditions if you want to upgrade his tank. Don> Tank Size
Hello there, just a quick question on my tank. I'm buying a second hand tank
from a friend. He says 35 gallon I think its a 29. 30"l 19"h 12"d so
which one is it? thanks
>> These dimensions are for a tank of 29 gallons. Oliver
Bow Front Tank Problems?
About a month ago I submitted a question about my two iridescent sharks
flipping out in a 72G bow front tank. I had recently moved them from an
overstocked 90G standard tank to make things a little nicer for me and the
fish. Anyway, we seemed to not be able to pinpoint the problem I was having at
that time. But thankfully, after a month of misery, I have found the
problem. It was the tank itself. I finally decided to put my sharks back into
the standard 90G and put my Arowana and my silver dollar into the 72G bow front
tank. Well guess who's flipping out now! My sharks are back to being calm and
eating and my Arowana and silver dollar are flipping out. They will only get
startled if I approach the front of the tank. If I approach the tank from the
sides they're fine, it's only that damn bow front. Well hopefully these two
will get used to it better than the sharks. They are both a lot more calm than
the sharks and don't get startled half as often. Oh well. Wish me luck. The
last thing I need is an unhappy Arowana. Thanks again for your help. -Ted
< Never heard of this problem before. The same optics that the bow front offers
that we as aquarists seem to enjoy could distort the view of a fish inside the
aquarium. next time I have my bow front out I will look at it from the back to
get the fishes perspective.-Chuck>
Lid on Too Tight
Hi, I have a 10g freshwater tank w/8 guppies, 2 catfish & a pleco.
Until recently the only cover I had on the tank was a screen. A few weeks ago I
decided to buy a hood for the tank & put in place. Shortly after 4 of my guppies
died. The hood I placed on top of the tank almost completely seals the top of
the tank with the exception of where the filter & air tubing run through and
that's a tight fit. I was wondering could a tight fitting hood with very little
openings cause problems in the fish tank such as dissolved gases not being able
to escape? Could it cause other unforeseen problems? Please enlighten me. Thank
you.
< As the water moves in the aquarium the surface comes in contact with the air
where CO2 and other gases are given off and oxygen is
absorbed by the water and utilized by the fish and the bacteria that break down
the toxic fish waste. I have seen instances where a tight lid, especially in an
acrylic tank, can suffocate an aquarium full of fish.-Chuck>
BiOrb screen
Do you have any suggestion as to how I can screen the filter intake of the
BiOrb. I thought about putting a hole in the middle of a fine net pulling it
over the bubble tube and securing it with some media. Thanks very much for
your advice
Lesley
<This sounds like it would work... I would contact the folks who make the BiOrb
for their input as well... It may be they have devised a screen, and they should
be advised re the need for such. Bob Fenner> Is a Bigger tank a
Better Tank? Is It "Dave", or "Luigi"? Chain yanker?
Hi I have heard and read that when buying a tank the bigger is always better
is that true for the most part?
<Bigger tanks are actually more stable than smaller tanks so it is
easier on the fish.>
And I was never that good at math so I was wondering how long in inches
is a 125-gallon fish tank? Thanks Ma'am look forward to hearing back
Dave.
< There are 232 cubic inches in a gallon of water multiply that by 125
gallons and that will give you the total volume of the tank.-Chuck>
How Big is a 125? Why Ask if it's Sitting Right There!? Dave, Luigi?
Hey man look I'm sorry but I still just don't get ya could you please tell
me how many inches or feet is in a 125-gal tank? I would really like a
tank of that size I just need the exact measurements. Thanks Dave.
< A typical 125 gallon from All Glass is 72x18x22. Other manufacturers
have slightly different dimensions and different shapes too.-Chuck>
FW tank size per livestock
Hey. Well, my parents have finally decided to get a larger tank. YAY! but I
don't know how big it should be...
I want to keep: 3-4 guppies, 3-4 swordtails, 5 zebra danios (are zebra danios
suitable in tropical temperatures of about 27 C?) and 4 catfish. how many
gallons should my new tank be? and roughly how much would it cost in Australian
dollar?? Thanks. you guys rock
<A good estimate, sixty to eighty litres minimum... cost? You got me mate... I'd
try the Net re. Bob Fenner> HOW BIG?
Hello again. I am overcrowding my tank and I am going to follow your advice
and buy a new tank. My only issue is that I don't know how big my new
fish tank should be. I wish to be able to have approximately 2
angelfish, maybe 6 mollies, and about 10 other fish of different species
about the same size the mollies, such as cichlids and some egglayers.
How big should my new tank be? Thank you for all your help and you site
is number 1!!! James
< If you get a regular rectangular shape tank then a 30 plus gallon tank
should be fine. If you go with a unique or different shape then I would
go with something a little larger like a 40 gallon or so. Cichlids are
very territorial and when breeding tend to take over one end of the
tank. If there is no "end" like in a hex then they seem to take over the
whole tank. Thank you for your kind words.-Chuck>
Calculations Offered by One Who is Mathematically Declined....
>Hello again
>>Hello for the first time.
>I have a 4ft tank and would like to know how gallons of water it holds. The
measurements are 122(L)x 43(H)x 31(D).
>>Well, since you've used feet and asked for gallons (which is a very good
thing, otherwise I'm forced to convert, the results are not always good) I do
believe I can help you. In order to figure gallons (U.S.) of a rectilinear
vessel all one needs to do is multiply (in INCHES) the three dimensions. So
(ready class?), one would address it thusly:
Uh.. shoot, your measurements don't indicate inches, centimeters, or cubits!
Alrighty then, you'll have to sort this on your own, my friend. All three
dimensions, Height x Width x Depth = ???? (usually a fantastically large
number). Then take ????/231 = total gallons U.S. (total divided by 231, which is
the number of cubic inches in a gallon). Make sense? Marina
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