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Bubbles coming from nowhere
out of my under gravel filter. 5/8/09
<Hi Scott>
I have only today discovered your site, although now that I know about
it I will be back often.
<Great.>
I have learned a lot of great stuff in searching for the answer to my
question, but have not found the answer itself.
I have a 600 L marine/reef tank which I run under gravel filters in.
(one type among several filters) The tank is nearly 2 meters across and
the under gravel filters are split into two systems, left and right,
which are not
interconnected. Each side is powered by a 2000 l/hr power head, pulling
the tank water through the gravel, into the PVC lattice under the
gravel, and then returning it to the tank. No air is added to the
filter, the power head is positioned just above the level of the gravel
(about .6 meter from the water surface) and should only ever see water
being that it's operation
is all in the bottom 6 inches of a pretty deep tank.
The mystery for me is that every 5 to 10 minutes a blast of fine bubbles
is blown from the power head on the left under gravel filter. I am
totally stumped as to where these bubbles are coming from??!! My tank is
nearly 6 years old and I have not seen this before. The bubbles just
appeared one day about 2 months ago at 1 to 2 hour intervals, and over
the last few months the interval between the bubble blast has become
shorter and shorter. I
don't imagine any problem for the critters in my reef, but not
understanding where the bubbles are coming from is driving me mad.
Thanks in advance for your expertise!
<Doesn't sound good Scott. I believe your bubbles are hydrogen sulphide
gas, a common problem with undergravel filter systems that have been in
use for an extended period of time and needs to be addressed quickly. I
would do a water change using a gravel cleaner type siphon.
Start with the affected filter, and do this with every future water
change. Is a prime requirement in maintaining these
type of filters.
Do read here and related articles/FAQ's
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/ug5proscons.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Scott Garner
Question on Building UGF System (RMF, opinion?) 12/16/08
Back in the mid 80's I built a 110 glass saltwater tank. I had triggers.
The
tank had a cracked bottom when I bought it from the fish store. They had the
bottom replaced and drilled with three outlets. I built a UGF system with egg
crate and covered it with screen and two returns at the top of the tank. I used
two Magnum 330's. Are systems like this still used? I had my tank for two years
and I never had any problems. A move forced me to sell.
Regards,
Jim B
<Hello Jim. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with undergravel filtration.
The reason you don't see such systems used much in either marine or freshwater
fishkeeping is that the alternatives are less expensive than they were, and at
least some of these alternatives offer very real advantages. In the case of
marine fishkeeping for example, the use of live rock allows the complete
nitrogen cycle from ammonia to nitrogen gas to be accommodated, not just the
part of the cycle from ammonia to nitrate. Hence marine aquaria filtered with
live rock enjoy better water quality (i.e., lower nitrate levels) than aquaria
that are filtered using old school methods such as undergravel filters. On the
freshwater side of things, undergravel filters turned out to be incompatible
with aquatic plants because the presence of oxygen in the substrate made it less
easy for plants to absorb the mineral nutrients they need. So aquarists with an
interest in planting their tanks prefer to use canister filters of some type
instead. Undergravel filters lose capacity in situations where there are lots of
rocks (or corals) creating "dead spots", and fish that do masses of digging (for
example cichlids or gobies) are liable to "short circuit" the system by creating
channels through which the water can flow, by-passing the bulk of the filter
bed. This isn't to say undergravels are redundant by any means. In the right
tanks, they remain extremely cost effective. When used in the reverse-flow
configuration are particularly well suited to tanks with large, messy fish where
the separation of mechanical filtration (in the canister filter) from the
biological filter (the gravel or coral sand substrate) makes maintenance much
easier than would otherwise be the case. In tanks where the substrate will be
expected to provide water chemistry control as well (such as a low-tech marine
or Rift Valley cichlid aquaria) the undergravel filter ensures the water
constantly passes through the calcareous substrate. In other words, while there
certainly are better filtration systems available, there's nothing actually bad
about undergravel filters, provided you understand their limitations and why
many hobbyists have switched to the other filter types. Cheers, Neale.> <<Are
still used... widely. And Neale's response is stellar... instructive, clear,
complete... as usual. RMF>>
Converting to a planted tank - shutting off the under gravel filter
9/13/08
so i have this 55 gallon tank that I've been given charge of. it's been going
for about 7 years. no plants, weak light. I'm putting in our budget next year
money to up grade the lighting and put some plants in (and some more fish whee).
<Okay. If you're serious about plants, do spend the $ (or £, or whatever) on a
good aquarium plants book -- money well spent. While lots of plants look
similar, some do better in certain types of tank than others, and knowing which
species to order online if your pet store doesn't have them makes a huge
difference.>>
I've been reading all over on how to do a planted tank right, but converting a
non planted to planted with my substrate I'm still not sure on. i currently have
what i suppose could be called "generic aquarium gravel" in there. the pieces
being .2 to 1 cm in size i guess. and an under gravel filter going on.
<The substrate will need an upgrade of some sort, perhaps the addition of
aquarium/pond soil or some laterite.>
i understand a finer substrate is in order for a planted aquarium. but then, i
don't exactly want to redo the entire eco system...so my thinking is that i will
take about half the current gravel out and replace with something finer,
probably some made for plants branded substrate on top of what i have now and
let it over time mix up. Ok?
<Here's my advice for cheap and effective plant growth. Grab a bag of pond soil.
It's sometimes called "aquatic soil" and you can get it at garden centres. It's
essentially nitrate-free soil. The lack of nitrate means the water won't become
polluted and your tank won't be overrun with algae. But being soil, it has lots
of iron, copper, and all the other things plants like. Here's in England it's
very cheap, a mere fraction the cost of Eco substrates, and easily 90% as good.
If I recall, a 20 kilo bag (around 40 lb) costs under £5 (about $8). Put a 2-4
cm/1-1.5 inch layer of this into the bottom of the tank, and mix with some
silica sand (again, "smooth silica sand" is widely sold in garden centres and
costs even less than the soil). Fine pea gravel works just as well as sand, so
choose whichever you like. Put a gravel tidy on top of this to keep it all in
place, and then cover with gravel or silica sand as preferred. With the gravel
tidy in place the fish can't expose the soil and make a mess, but the plants
will send their roots into the stuff quite happily. It's a bit messy when you
set the tank up, but after the filter is running a few days the tank will be
spotless. Add your plants whenever you want, and off you go. A great aquatic
plant substrate on a shoe-string budget! Works for me!>
The real worry i have and my question is this undergravel filter. what happens
when i shut it off?
<Nothing much. The bacteria will die off course, but that's no big deal. Remove
the gravel and the UG filter plate, clean up any nastiness (there won't be much,
honestly) and then add your soil/sand mix on top.>
I'm not wanting to dig into the nasty underneath it and pull it out. I hope just
to pull out the upshoot tubes and leave the thing in there.
<I wouldn't do this for lots of reasons. The main is that a dead "pocket" of
water is not what you want in an aquarium. It's also a waste of space. Just pull
the darn thing out... you're going to have to do this anyway for the plants.>
My hope is that all the detritus that's been sucked down inside it and to the
bottom level of the gravel will just wait and become nutrients for the plants
once the roots get down that far. But that will take some time.
<No, doesn't work that way. Trust me on this: you're saving ten minutes of work,
but creating a huge disappointment in terms of how your plants will prosper.
Plants need very specific things to thrive. Do also remember the alternatives:
floating plants and epiphytes (species that grow attached to wood) don't need a
substrate, and are JUST FINE with undergravel filters. You can create an amazing
tank using just those kinds of plants. Anubias, Java fern, Bolbitis fern, Java
moss, Riccia, Salvinia, Ceratopteris, Limnobium... just a few plants that would
work in this kind of tank. Floating plants have roots that grow downwards, and
epiphytes can be positioned at any level you want. With some care, you can
create stunning displays with plants at every level.>
what do i have to worry about for the water of the aquarium when that stuff in
the under gravel filter gets used to not having water pass through it?
<Don't do it this way. Not worth it. Cheers, Neale.>
Confused about UGF statement from crew 4/27/07
Thanks WWM crew for all you do for passing the knowledge forward. I recently (1
year ago) returned to the salt water portion of the hobby after being out of it
for 20 years and have learned and re-learned many things and what a change from
the late seventies early eighties. I have had freshwater tanks since the late
sixties and was a little confused by a reply to a question asked by someone as I
was reading over the FAQ's tonight regarding under gravel filters for FW
tanks.............
UGF and Power Heads, FW - 04/25/07
To whom it may concern:
Hello,
<<Hello. Tom here.>>
I have a 10 gallon tank with 2 separate filters and 3 goldfishes. I get a little
frustrated with changing the filters every 2-3 weeks, so I purchased a UGF and a
power head from aqua-tech. Did I made a good decision? I would really appreciate
a straight answer.
<<Straight answer? No, you didn’t make the best of decisions here. First, I
would rather have seen you place the money you spent toward a much larger
aquarium. You’re way overloaded where stocking is concerned. (Goldfish need far
larger quarters to live in than most people believe or understand.) Specific to
your question, though, a UGF requires a higher, not lower, level of maintenance
than hang-on or submersible filters. If you’re frustrated with cleaning your
present filters every two to three weeks, you’re not going to be happy pulling
your UGF plates just as often to make sure they’re clean and performing
properly. It’s because other styles of filters were designed to be more easily
maintained that UGF’s lost their popularity. They used to be the “only game in
town” in the past. Now, by most standards, they’re simply not worth the effort.
(For just a little “sugar coating”, UGF’s work very well. Many hobbyists just
didn’t want to take the time to maintain them properly and this caused problems
up to, and including, the deaths of their livestock.)>>
thank you
<<You’re welcome. Tom>>
Maybe I have been doing things wrong for 20+ years but when I look under my
plates from the bottom of the tank (one with power heads running) I do see a
small amount of build up but nothing to stress me or the fish about.
<Mmm, well... circumstances result in highly variable experience here... but if
one uses "almost entirely nutritious" foods (so that there is not much "left
over" (think of spacemen/women in their space suits here...) AND there is no
shortage of alkaline reserve (the mechanisms of decomposition here result in
lowered pH, dissolved oxygen...) and a few other factors, then UG filters can be
quite maintenance free... In actual practice though, more gravel vacuuming is
required... along with disruption of the livestock, system... with UG use (Am
still a fan myself)>
I have never had to "pull my UGF plates up every 2-3 weeks" to clean them. The
only time I have done this was when either moving a tank or breaking one down. I
do not want to wreak havoc on my cycle.
<Agreed>
I run power heads in the lift tubes (smaller tanks have air pumps and stones)
and when I do need to clean the build up under the plates I do not remove them
but either run a hose down the lift tube to siphon or attach tube to the power
head to suck out or by simple lifting up and down slightly where the tube meets
the plate with power head running (if worried about clouding the water you could
do it while changing water with hose attached to exit of power head to keep silt
from entering tank water) to loosen and clean out the deposits under the UGF.
Of course I vacuum (alternating half one water change then the other the next
time) the gravel to remove the mulm built up in it but never have I removed the
plates just to clean.
<Well-stated and a good practice>
However the hang on filter does require more regular maintenance in my opinion
for changing out the medium used there as the waste build up increases the
nitrate and reduces water flow through the filter.
Thank you,
John Maggio
<Thank you for sharing, sending along this well-written counter-point. Bob
Fenner>
Re: UGs 4/27/07
Hello Tom, Bob,
<Neale, Tom>
I came across this message in the Inbox and wasn't sure how to respond
to it, so am open to advice.
<Good attitude>
On the one hand, I have never found undergravel filters to be difficult
to maintain. Yes, they need cleaning once a year and a good rake through
once a month, but that's about it. They have numerous drawbacks I grant,
but maintenance isn't really one of them. For their cost, undergravels
can provide very good water quality. On the other hand, I wouldn't like
to criticize the advice offered by another contributor. I also think
Tom's basic comment that the tank is too small and an undergravel too
pokey for goldfish is correct. I
personally don't consider goldfish suitable for anything other than very
large aquaria, but that's just me.
<We are in agreement here... I have posted a couple of articles I'd
penned on these venerable filters... Do have some place still... but not
with goldfish systems, other arenas where sped up reduction can be
problematical>
The message is in my mailbox folder if anyone wants to have a pass
at it.
<I'll have a go... and send all to Tom's in-folder as well. Cheers,
BobF>
Cheers, Neale
> Thanks WWM crew for all you do for passing the knowledge forward. I
recently (1 year ago) returned to the salt water portion of the hobby
after being out of it for 20 years and have learned and re- learned many
things and what a change from the late seventies early eighties. I have
had freshwater tanks since the late sixties and was a little confused by
a reply to a question asked by someone as I was reading over the FAQ's
tonight regarding under gravel filters for FW tanks.............
>> UGF and Power Heads, FW - 04/25/07
>> To whom it may concern:
>> Hello,
>> <<Hello. Tom here.>>
>> I have a 10 gallon tank with 2 separate filters and 3 goldfishes.
>> I get a little frustrated with changing the filters every 2-3 weeks,
so I purchased a UGF and a power head from aqua-tech. Did I made a good
decision? I would really appreciate a straight answer.
>> <<Straight answer? No, you didn’t make the best of decisions here.
>> First, I would rather have seen you place the money you spent toward
a much larger aquarium. You’re way overloaded where stocking is
concerned. (Goldfish need far larger quarters to live in than most
people believe or understand.) Specific to your question, though, a UGF
requires a higher, not lower, level of maintenance than hang-on or
submersible filters. If you’re frustrated with cleaning your present
filters every two to three weeks, you’re not going to be happy pulling
your UGF plates just as often to make sure they’re clean and performing
properly. It’s because other styles of filters were designed to be more
easily maintained that UGF’s lost their popularity. They used to be the
“only game in town” in the past. Now, by most standards, they’re simply
not worth the effort. (For just a little “sugar coating”, UGF’s work
very well. Many hobbyists just didn’t want to take the time to maintain
them properly and this caused problems up to, and including, the
deaths of their livestock.)>>
>> thank you
>> <<You’re welcome. Tom>>
> Maybe I have been doing things wrong for 20+ years but when I
look under my plates from the bottom of the tank (one with power
heads running) I do see a small amount of build up but nothing to
stress me or the fish about.
> I have never had to "pull my UGF plates up every 2-3 weeks" to
clean them. The only time I have done this was when either moving a tank
or breaking one down. I do not want to wreak havoc on my cycle.
> I run power heads in the lift tubes (smaller tanks have air pumps and
stones) and when I do need to clean the build up under the plates
I do not remove them but either run a hose down the lift tube to siphon
or attach tube to the power head to suck out or by simple lifting up and
down slightly where the tube meets the plate with power head running (if
worried about clouding the water you could do it while changing water
with hose attached to exit of power head to keep silt from entering tank
water) to loosen and clean out the deposits under the UGF.
> Of course I vacuum (alternating half one water change then the other
the next time) the gravel to remove the mulm built up in it but never
have I removed the plates just to clean.
> However the hang on filter does require more regular maintenance in my
opinion for changing out the medium used there as the waste build up
increases the nitrate and reduces water flow through the filter.
> Thank you,
> John Maggio
UGF and Power Heads, FW - 04/25/07
To whom it may concern:
Hello,
<<Hello. Tom here.>>
I have a 10 gallon tank with 2 separate filters and 3 goldfishes. I get a little
frustrated with changing the filters every 2-3 weeks, so I purchased a UGF and a
power head from aqua-tech. Did I made a good decision? I would really appreciate
a straight answer.
<<Straight answer? No, you didn’t make the best of decisions here. First, I
would rather have seen you place the money you spent toward a much larger
aquarium. You’re way overloaded where stocking is concerned. (Goldfish need far
larger quarters to live in than most people believe or understand.) Specific to
your question, though, a UGF requires a higher, not lower, level of maintenance
than hang-on or submersible filters. If you’re frustrated with cleaning your
present filters every two to three weeks, you’re not going to be happy pulling
your UGF plates just as often to make sure they’re clean and performing
properly. It’s because other styles of filters were designed to be more easily
maintained that UGF’s lost their popularity. They used to be the “only game in
town” in the past. Now, by most standards, they’re simply not worth the effort.
(For just a little “sugar coating”, UGF’s work very well. Many hobbyists just
didn’t want to take the time to maintain them properly and this caused problems
up to, and including, the deaths of their livestock.)>>
thank you
<<You’re welcome. Tom>>
Aquatic Edge undergravel filters 3/7/07
I was just recently given a fish tank. Well as with anything, it needed to be
assembled. I would like to know if there are any diagrams that show how to
assemble the water filter, pump, and aquatic edge undergravel filters.
<I am not familiar with this product, but I was able to find a picture of what
it should look like when assembled here,
http://www.fish.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=701012+005. Hope this is of help to
you, Brandon.>
Thanks
Switching from Under Gravel Filters To Other Filtration Methods -
02/11/2007
Hi WWM Crew,
<<Hello, Glenn. Tom here.>>
I hope you all are doing well today.
<<And you as well.>>
A few years back y'all helped me plan for changing my saltwater tank from UGF
filtration to LR/DSB and sump/refugium. I made the change in 2004 and Nitrates
have been undetectable since then.
<<Can’t argue with success, Glenn. Good job.>>
I have a small 30L Malawi Cichlid tank that has been running for 7 years. I've
always used UGF and the same gravel. After reading about some of the problems
that a poorly maintained ( i.e. lack of regular water changes and substrate
vacuuming) UGF system may develop, I've decided to switch to a power filter.
<<Nothing wrong with making the switch, Glenn. I’d say that a tank running a UGF
filter for seven years isn’t at all bad but, I wouldn’t disagree with the
decision you’ve made.>>
My plan is to run the UGF and new Power filter together for a period of time,
then remove the gravel, UGF plates and vacuum out the bottom of the tank.
Rinse the grave in tank water and add several inches back into the tank.
Of course the fish will be moved to a 30G Rubbermaid tub while I remove the
filter.
<<A suggestion? If possible, pull the plates without pulling out the gravel.
Easier said than done, I know. Will very likely stir up a lot of gunk from the
bottom but I’d rather not see so much of the beneficial bacteria potentially
compromised. When all has settled out, a few “deep” (all the way to the bottom)
gravel cleanings will put your substrate back in good order. This will become
the order of the day, anyhow. As I say, just a suggestion.>>
My first question is how long should I run the Power and UGF filter together
before removing the UGF?
<<This one somewhat goes back to my last point. A couple of weeks should be more
than sufficient provided the whole bacterial “farm” hasn’t been badly disrupted
or disturbed. The media will seed with beneficial bacteria quickly in a cycled
tank such as yours so I see no reason to run both together longer than this.>>
The second is, how deep can I make the substrate? I know in marine systems, a
SSB should be <= 1". Does this apply to fresh water as well?
<<This one depends on the type/size of the substrate being used, Glenn. The
finer the substrate, the shallower the depth should be. I’m running about 1” of
fine, natural gravel in one of my tanks and about 2.5”-3” of coarser gravel in
another. The key is to prevent pockets of build-up from forming away from the
oxygenated region of the tank. No hard and fast rules here other than good
common sense, really.>>
Thanks,
Glenn
<<No problem at all, Glenn. Good luck with the change-over. Tom>>
Deep Sand Bed for Fresh water aquarium. 11/8/06
Hi Guys,
<Oooh, what about the XXs?>
I am new to this site but I used to keep marines - then I got married, had kids,
got a proper job - pretty much in that order...
<Let's see... in the not so wild west, "First comes... then comes
familiarity...>
Now I return, but have decided to keep Malawi Cichlids (Haps and Peacocks).
<I keep these... and Mbuna in another system>
I am still researching the species and bringing myself up to date with latest
filtration techniques etc. I am space limited and so I know that the size of the
tank is fixed at around 90G. I am interested in using a sump - for various
reasons, but it has a lot to do with requiring a low maintenance, stable system
because I am away from home 4 days a week. (That's what a proper job does to
you). I am interested in incorporating a NNR refugium type compartment in the
sump, and have read around the subject a little. However, I have a couple of
really basic questions that I can't find answers for. This is why I write.
My first question is how do they work?
<Mmm, NNRs? Basically they harbour, foster anaerobic microbe populations... mild
circulation delivers system water to the hypoxic bed, and chemical substrate
(e.g. Nitrates) that are reduced (as in Reduction/Oxidation) to component
molecules>
Ha! Don't get upset. 6 inches of sand directly on the bottom of the tank with no
forced water flow through it leaves me confused. How is the water that had
nitrates removed replaced? How does water exchange work in the filter bed?
<Is the same water... recirculated with/through the system en toto... and the
water exchange is purposely very slow, gradual to keep oxygen tension low>
My second question is this. If I set it up with a plenum, an uplift tube and a
very low flow rate (say a few gallon per hour) will the efficiency of the sand
bed be increased or destroyed?
<This depends on still other factors/circumstances of how much substrate, its
"grade", chemical/physical make-up... slow as you go is the route to go here...
no uplift tubes, the "holes" for these plugged... No aided circulation through
the bed other than simple diffusion, Brownian motion>
(This is of course just a UGF with a low flow rate). When I was keeping marines
the accepted wisdom at the time was that aerobic processes occurred in only the
top inch and a half of substrate. Therefore it seems to me that with a deep sand
filter some forced water movement could be acceptable without dragging oxygen
too far into the bed.
<Ah, yes... I remember those days/years>
In any case it could be possible to increase the depth of the sand to
compensate.
<Yes, to some/an extent>
I should add that the reason I am tempted to do this is again due to lack of
space. The entire sump needs to be 80LX40WX40Dcm max.
Any help you can offer would be very welcome.
Thanks,
Tony Baxter
<The same rationale, design, operation... of such filtration, filters as per
marine... Please use the search tool and/or indices on WWM to read about
Plenums, DSBs for marine/SW set-ups...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/Plenums.htm
and the linked files above...
and apply this to your application. Bob Fenner>
Undergravel Fish? 11/7/06
Hello,
<Hi Mark, Pufferpunk here>
I have this problem with my Flowerhorn fry. They seem to always try to get
under the gravel. A lot of them are not getting back out. I want to try to
vacuum the gravel but afraid that I might crush the fry while doing it. So, is
this a big problem or the fry should be able to get themselves out? Please, need
help fast--don't know if they can survive that long under the gravel.
<Are you speaking of below the undergravel filter plate? I can't imagine
anything else you might be referring to, unless your gravel size is huge & they
are being caught between the pieces. If you are referring to the undergravel
filter plate, the same thing happened to my Cory catfish fry. I took the down
tube out & lifted the plate by the hole slowly, letting the gravel drop to the
side. All the fry were fine after that. Please correct me if my assumption is
wrong & describe the problem better. Also, it would be good for the fry to have
some fine-leaved plants (live or fake) to hide out in. ~PP>
Thank you very much, Mark
Removing an UGF 8/24/06
Good morning!
<Hi Nicole, Pufferpunk here>
I have a 29 gallon community tank filtered by a Penguin 150. I had a powerhead
connected to an UGF. I decided to try making use of an extra powerhead by
connecting it to a Quick Filter (Hagen). I had it running since Thursday and at
first was very excited as it polished the water until it was sparkling! The
trouble started when I removed the other powerhead off of its lift tube for
cleaning....suddenly I heard a pop and I realized I had removed the whole lift
tube right off of the filter plate! I considered for a moment what to do, and
ended up just throwing away the lift tube and covering up the exposed bit of
plate with gravel. Can I safely do this? Just abandon the undergravel filter
and leave it as a large plate sitting uselessly under the gravel? Or do I have
to remove the UGF completely?
<I really don't like UGFs in general. It seems like "sweeping dirt under the
rug". Unless used as reverse flow. Here is an article that will tell you
everything you need to know:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/water/ugfilters.html >
I changed one of the two carbon filters (I change them alternately to reduce
bio-filtration stress) and removed the power sponge filter, which had become
darkly discolored - probably because of stirring up the muck beneath the filter
plate. The package says you can leave it in for up to two weeks without changing
the filter, I went ahead and changed it. From now on I am going to only run it
on weekends, since it seems better for spot cleaning than continuous use.
<I have completely removed UGF plates (my Corys had spawned & all the babies
were underneath!). It was quite simple. I just grabbed onto the hole & pulled
slowly up to one side. The gravel just slid off. I did a good stir & an 80%
water change.>
The water doesn't look cloudy per se but it does have lots of small suspended
particles in it, which haven't cleared up since the "incident" with the lift
tube. I am writing because I fear discontinuing the UGF suddenly and removing
the extra powerhead might have been a major mistake/disaster and I don't even
know it! Although the fish seem to be acting normally in every way.. I will do
whatever is necessary.
<I prefer a good HOB filter like the Aquaclear for a tank like that (sorry, I'm
not familiar with Penguins). Using one & removing the UGF, shouldn't change
your biological filtration much, as your tank seems well established. I like to
put 1" filter floss between the sponge & BioMax that comes with the AC filters
(carbon is pretty much useless on a freshwater tank), to "polish" my water
crystal clear. ~PP>
Thank you very much for your help!
Nicole
Goldfish shut off the undergravel filter? Eats shoots and leaves...
7/14/06
Hello,
<<Hi. Tom with you.>>
I read on your web site that undergravel filters are not recommended for
goldfish.
<<Goldfish in particular because of their "messiness" but the recommendation
holds for other species as well. I, and others, have addressed this one before
but it may bear repeating. We don't recommend against this style of filter
because it doesn't work. They can/do work quite well, in fact. The two primary
causes for concern, however, is that these MUST cover the entire bottom of the
tank and they MUST be maintained properly. When the first admonition is ignored
or misapplied, pockets of detritus/mulm can build up in the "unfiltered" areas
leading to potentially toxic levels of nitrates in the tank. Also, when not
properly maintained, the same situation may arise should the filter plate(s)
become clogged and left untended. This one may sound like a case of "pilot
error" rather than the fault of the filter and, while we wouldn't argue that
point, there are just too many good alternatives available to aquarists to
justify the use of a style of filter that has led to a great many problems
including otherwise "mysterious" deaths of livestock.>>
I have a 46 gallon tank with 2 medium Orandas and 1 Ryukin. Currently I have an
undergravel filter and a TetraTec PF500 power filter. I am considering shutting
the undergravel filter off. I have a hot magnum filter that I could use to clean
the gravel with prior to shut down and then reload with carbon to assist
filtration during the transition. Do you have any advice or feedback?
<<Your plan sounds fine and will eliminate potential problems down the road. Why
run the risk?>>
Thanks!
<<Any time. Tom>>
Bowfronts and filtration 5/18/06
Dear crew:
<<Hi, Jasen. Tom here.>>
I have a bowfront aquarium and a problem.
<<One of mine is a "bowfront", too, so let's see if we can solve the problem.>>
I was told that since the tank isn't rectangular I can't use an undergravel
filter with it.
<<In a nutshell, UGF's are problematic because the can create problems with
trapped particulate matter leading to high toxin levels. The general rule,
nowadays, is to avoid them.>>
Is this true?
<<Yes. The trouble here is that a UGF should filter the "entire" bottom surface
of the tank to eliminate "pockets" of collected detritus/mulm. With a bowfront
tank, this isn't possible with a straight-line UGF. A matter of "geometry". The
"bow" in the front of your tank will leave a rather large area for unfortunate
build-up. Not a good situation at all.>>
From,
a fish lover
<<From a fish lover, as well. Tom>>
Re: Bowfronts and filtration ... FW maint./op.
5/24/06
<<Tom here, Jasen.>>
Thanks for your answer!
<<No problem whatsoever.>>
A couple more questions (and this time, could you return the answer to this
email: XXXX).
<<Should work, Jasen. Our replies of the typical e-mail variety so they go back
to the address the questions were posted from. Looks like yours fits the bill.>>
What is the main reason that aquarium water starts to smell, kind of like
stagnant water? Is that because of excess food on the bottom that rots? Or is
it because of some kind of bad bacteria? What is the smell, ammonia?
<<In a nutshell, all of the examples you've cited will contribute to the bad
smell. Toss in some fish poop and you've got quite a smelly combination at work,
most of it decaying/rotting and, generally, fouling up the place. As to the
ammonia, it's possible that you might detect this but you'd have to have a
pretty sensitive nose. Given that the toxicity levels that will kill fish is so
low in "normal people" terms, it's a good bet that you'd have dead/dying fish on
your hands if you could smell the ammonia.>>
Also, what kind of fish can keep that problem to a minimum? Catfish on the
bottom? If so, what kind of catfish consumes old food on the bottom of the
aquarium best? I know that there are some that don't eat the old food.
<<To give you a serious but, seemingly, silly answer, small fish invariably
result in a "cleaner" tank for fairly obvious reasons. They don't eat as much as
large fish and, consequently, don't urinate/defecate as much. Less uneaten food
- assuming they're fed responsibly - and less detritus. Catfish are scavengers,
for the most part. I've, personally, got Corydoras and these guys forage
non-stop. They'll do it regardless however, I wouldn't think of leaving them to
live on what's "left over" from my other fish. Mine are fed sinking types of
food, i.e. pellets and wafers, and I'd suggest the same to everyone else.>>
Would it be better to have snails instead of catfish, or should I have both? And
what about those kind of fish that seem to have their mouths glued to the glass
all the time...I don't know what they are called, but I've seen them.
<<Some snails can, and will, happily feed on old food and detritus. I'm not a
fan of the little buggers but they do, indeed, prove useful in this respect. In
stocking my tanks, Jasen, I get the type of fish that I like before I concern
myself with what they'll do for their "environment". Doesn't mean we can't have
our cake and eat it, too, but I clean my tanks every week with water changes
ranging up to 50%. That frees me up to keep whatever kind of fish I'm prepared
to properly care for with regard to water parameters, etc. You can make "smart"
choices but I've yet to hear of a successful, maintenance-free aquarium...unless
it's empty, of course. :)
Oh, the fish you're referring to is a Plecostomus catfish, specifically
Hypostomus plecostomus. Not the only variety of Pleco available, by any means,
but this is probably the species you're asking about.>>
Jasen Stoeker
<<Tom>>
Question...UG Filters-Hydrogen Sulphide Factories - 5/18/2006
I have a 46 gallon aquarium with a bow-front. Is it possible to use an
undergravel filter with this aquarium, since it is not rectangular?
<Fred, is there any particular reason you want to use a UG filter?
These guys are maintenance headaches. You would be much better off with
a bio-wheel type filter if expense is the concern.
Do read here and then decide. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/ug5proscons.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Fred Stoeker
UG's....not my choice - 05/17/2006
Dear Crew,
<Hello.>
Can I use an undergravel filter in a 46 gallon bowfront aquarium,
<...You can, I wouldn't...not a fan of UG's myself.>
even though it is not perfectly rectangular because of the bowed out
front?
<UG's in my opinion are obsolete, if this is freshwater aquaria look
into a nice canister filter like an Eheim.>
Fred Stoeker
<Adam J.>
Mainly FW plant selection, growing with UG filtration 3/21/06
Dear Bob / Sabrina
I have been keeping tropical fishes for the last couple of years. I have 5
Angels, 3 Clown Loaches & some tetras in my aquarium.
During this period I tried so many times to keep real / live plants in my 5 feet
long tank which is based on under gravel filters but I never got success :-(
again I had to decorate my aquarium along with Plastic Plants.
This time again I am trying to keep the real plants. I need some information
from you
1. Can I keep them in Under Gravel filters based tank. ( Here in Pakistan I have
seen many aquariums which are full of live plants and are running on Under
Gravel filtration )
<Not all species... or not w/o "blind-potting" many of the rooted varieties (in
their own substrate, containers, or with a solid barrier placed on top of the UG
plate between the gravel...>
2. What species of plants should I keep ? I mean what types of plants ? I intend
to keep Hygrophila, Cabomba, Vallisneria, Java Fern & Cryptocoryne, are these
plants suitable for keeping with each other.
<Posted:
http://wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/AquariumGardenSubWebIndex.html>
3. If the above mentioned plants are o.k. then what are the lighting
requirements for these plants and what types of fishes I can keep along with
these plants
<Also posted...>
4. Here in Pakistan a local plants dealer told me that Java Fern do not grow
well if it is potted in a gravel. Placing it on a Bog Wood will do better. Is he
right ?
<Yes... posted>
I am a regular visitor of your website and I think it is very informative.
Wish you good luck in your future endeavors
Very Best Regards
Shany
Karachi, Pakistan.
<Thanks much. Bob Fenner>
Looking For Undergravel Filters 9/19/05
Hello! I am currently searching for an underground filter system for
a 46G freshwater aquarium. The dimensions are 36.5" X 16.5" X 21". Can you
please recommend the correct size for this 46G bow-front? Also, is there a
company that makes "custom-fitted" underground filter systems? Thanks for your
time. Regards, Shelly Hentges
< Go to DrsFosterSmith.com. They have an undergravel filter by Perfecto
that is 34.5" x16.25" (#MA-128358) for a 50 or 65 gallon tank. Pretty darn
close. Nobody makes custom undergravel filters that I know of, but the one
mentioned above will work just fine if you really want an undergravel
filter.-Chuck>
Cleaning Undergravel Filters - 08/25/2005
I have two underground filters connected to power-head filters, and I was
wondering, how you can clean underneath them?
<Very, very difficult - and a great question, besides. The best idea I have
been offered is to run an airline hose down the lift tubes and start a
siphon.... if you have an open-top-type stand, you can get underneath and see
where the problem areas are to get 'em cleared out. This is not a great
solution, but it's better than doing nothing! Another option would be to do a
reverse-flow UGF (powerheads would drive water IN the lift tubes, and out
through the substrate, rather than the opposite). You'd want it cleaned out
prior to making this change, though, or all the gunk underneath will get stirred
up. My preference is just to not use UGFs when avoidable.>
Thanks for your help!
<You bet!>
Christine
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
What's that smell??? (10/22/03)
<Hi! Ananda here this afternoon...>
I have had a 3' aquarium for 7 years and had encountered few problems . I have
recently added some new fish after a long time with only a few fish in the tank.
I now have a major smell problem with the tank. I have cleaned it out more often
and I am wondering if I have cleaned it out too much and removed too much dirt
for the under gravel filter to work? Please help if you can my living room
smells like the bottom of a pond!
<It's likely there's something stuck under the undergravel filter plate, rotting
away, and producing hydrogen sulfide. You may need to tear the whole tank down
to clean under there and find the culprit. To prevent another occurrence of
something like this, I think the new fish deserve a new filter. There are a
number of easier-to-maintain filters available now. For a 3' tank, without
knowing how many or what kinds of fish you have, I would suggest looking into
the Penguin 330 or one of the Emperor filters (click the Drs. Foster & Smith
icon at the top of the Daily FAQs page and wander over to their filtration
section).>
Karen.
<Hope this helps. --Ananda>
Re: What's that smell??? (10/22/03)
Hi Karen here
<Hi! Ananda back again, here...>
Thank you for you help. I have actually solved the problem already , you were
right though. Both up lift pipes were loose and blocked. the fish are happy and
the tank smells sweet!. thanks again Karen.
<Glad to hear you found out what the problem was. --Ananda>
The Smell Returns (11/01/03)
Hi again,
<Ananda here, back for another round>
In trouble again , we now have a foggy tank and a white mold like growth in the
up lift pipes and another smell hard to describe but just not nice.
<Ugh. Time to partly disassemble the UGF and see what's under the plates, I
think. I did that, once...and switched to a different type of filtration.>
Can you help?
<Got airfare? ;-) Seriously, though, I think you may have some blockages in the
gravel... and I think the "white mold growth" is a symptom of a filter in need
of cleaning.>
I did wonder if it was just that the filter was not active yet?
<Hmmm? Did you get a different filter with bio-filtration capacity? Or are you
referring to the UGF?>
Karen
<Maybe try soaking your uplift tubes in vinegar, then water, to clean them?
--Ananda>
No More Smell in That Tank (11/04/03)
Hi again
<Hi! Ananda back again.>
Thank you for your help again.
<No problemo.>
All is sorted. I had emptied the tank and cleaned under the UGF and then the
tank went cloudy and smelly.
<Ah, that explains it. By emptying the tank, the gravel got disturbed and some
of the nitrifying bacteria got killed off. Thus the cloudiness.>
After I had E-mailed you I cleaned the up lift pipes and did a partial water
change every day, after about ten days all is well the fish are happy and the
tank smells sweet again. Thank you again for your help.
<Sure>
I have just set up an additional tank and I am increasing my collection of fish.
We have a small nursery tank as well with balloon mollies, Dalmatian mollies and
white cloud mountain minnow fry so we have lots of fish to look after.
<Do you know what you're going to do with all those fish? You can only fit so
many tanks in a house, as I've discovered....>
I am also going to set up another 3' tank as soon as I can as a friend has sold
one to me very cheap.
<That's a start.>
Thanks again for your help. Karen
<Best of luck to you and your fish. -- Ananda>
Gravel Filtration
Do you recommend gravel filtration?
<Method of filtration depends on many factors, freshwater, saltwater, fish,
reef, etc. Please surf over to http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ and choose your
weapon from the headings...marine or freshwater, and then the sub headings for
filtration. It is vital to factor-in the type, habit, feeding, waste production
and adult size of the inhabitants you are interested in, and what is required to
provide them with whatever it takes to thrive in captivity. The web site will
provide you with all the information needed. Enjoy! Craig>
Reverse-flow or normal flow?
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005
Hi,
<Bonjour!>
To put you in the situation, I have a 75 gallons with 19 adults herbivore
Mbunas, 1 AquaClear 500, 1 canister Fluval 304 with sponges, Rena BioStar
and crush corals inside. Also UGF powered with 379 gph powerhead on normal
flow in a corner. At the opposite corner, an air inlet pull water in normal
flow too. The gavel thickness is about 2-4 in. depending where. The food I
use sink very quickly and it goes in the gavel following the water flow.
<I see>
The thing is that I have a certain numbers of dead spot due to rock caves
and hiding places for Mbunas. I thought it will be better to push the water
under the gravel because at weekly water change I don't want to move all
rocks away. If you think the idea of switching flow is great, I will put two
more powerhead and remove air from the UGF.
<This is what I would do, oui>
Thanks a lot, Philippe. My English is not very good so it could be difficult
to read....
<No problem. You are making yourself understood. Merci, Bob Fenner>
UGF etc, filters, cycling, FW
I have several questions.
<Hope we have as many answers>
I am going to put a UGF in a 50 gallon tank. Am I correct that you need a 2 inch
gravel bed? Now do you layer this gravel evenly over the plates or is it better
to have it sloped higher from back to front?
<Mmm, about right... depends on the grade, make-up of the actual gravel... and
flatter is better, more functional>
Also do you recommend power heads over air pumps and if so how do you know the
flow rate?
<Actually, airlift works quite well... powerheads are fine though... a rule of
thumb... no more than two gallons per minute of actual flow per square foot of
plate/bottom>
For instance a 50 gallon
UGF plate comes in two separate pieces so a 48 x 13 is really 2 24 x 13 plates
so is the flow rate for a powerhead determined by total tank volume or by gravel
bed size?
<Ahh! Both... and finer gravel can "take" higher flow rates...>
The reason ask this question is because I also have a 72 gal bow front that
would take the same filter plates but has 22 gal more water.
Is it possible to have too much aeration under the UGF plates?
<Yes>
Next I understand the cycle process and the need for water changes during this
time but how much water and do you vacuum the gravel during this cycle time?
<As little as possible... disrupts the establishment... I would only change the
water (not disturb the gravel) and ONLY if ammonia or nitrite exceed 1.0 ppm>
Also I have some established biological gravel how much do you add to the new
tank
<A few pounds... even "dirty water" vacuumed from it would do>
also I am going to put an Xp1 canister on the 50 gal and I already have a cycled
XP2 with 20 BioStars how many can I take from that I will put new ones in place
of what I take out) without creating problems?
<About half>
Thank You for your help
Heidi
<Thank you for your thoughtful questions. Bob Fenner>
Re: UGF etc
Thanks for the help! I have searched and don't seem to find definitive
answers. So here comes more questions. So if powerheads are used the 50
gallon UGF would use the same rated powerheads as the 72 gallon bow front
UGF because the gravel beds are the same dimensions?
<Yes... FOR the purpose of the filters themselves... think about this.>
Or since the 72 gal is
4 inches deeper do you need more power to drive the UGF?
<No my friend... the pushing/pulling through the filter plates, gravel
will/would be the same irregardless of the depth of the system>
If so how do you know how much more power is needed? So if using an air pump to
drive UGF do
you recommend airstones?
<In general, yes... Good flow rate, easy to check on... adds aeration, breaks up
surface film... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwugfiltr.htm
and the linked files at top>
In the instance of the UGF for the 50 g being 2 separate plates, how many lift
tubes per plate would be used and how would
you be able to tell if the flow rate is where it needs to be and not too
much or too little?
<I'd only use one lift tube per plate>
Is there an acceptable way to calculate and regulate the flow when using air
pumps?
<Not generally necessary... can be estimated, even physically measured if you'd
like to discuss this>
Does having the elbow on the lift tubes totally
submerged or partially submerged change the flow rate?
<Yes, decreases somewhat... worth the trade off in circulation>
I understand how to calculate flow rate per min with powerheads but not with air
pumps.
In the instance that powerheads are used would just 1 powerhead be used
per plate and does it matter which lift tube is used?
<The ones in the corners, better>
There is so much
that I still don't know. Hope I am not driving you nuts with these questions.
Thanks so much!
Heidi
<Too late... already there. Bob Fenner>
Removing a UGF
Hi Don, Dayna here again, thanks for the fast response!
Could you give me a few pointers on how I would go about taking the UGF out?
Thanks again.
Dayna
<First I would add another power filter and let it run a good month to become
established. Then get out as much gravel as possible and give it a good rinse.
Lower the water level to about half. Have replacement water ready. Lift the
plate slowly at one side and with a siphon draw out as much of the junk as
possible before it floats away into the water. A lot still will, but it will
either settle or be filtered out. Replace the gravel and water. Give it an hour
or two then replace the filter pads. Leave the bio wheels alone. In a day or two
use the gravel vac to get any junk that settled. Test for ammonia and nitrite
spikes and do water changes to correct any spikes until things settle
down>
UGF and Catfish Questions
I hate to inundate you with questions, but I can't seem to find the answers
to this anywhere else, and you guys always seem to have the right solutions. <No
problem, Don here>
I have been running an undergravel filter on one of my tanks but I now want to
change and use canister filters instead. What do I need to do to make the
transition? Can I leave the plate in and just take out the tubes? Should I wait
a few weeks to allow the canister filters to get established? (I plan to use an
Eheim 2229 wet/dry and an Eheim 2260 on a 215 gallon tank)
<You want to remove the plates. Big job in a 215. If you can move the fish for a
few hours, do it. If not I would start by siphoning out as much gravel as
possible. You can rinse and reuse. Try to get the siphon under the plate before
you lift it too far. There is going to be tons of nasty stuff under it. You want
to get as much out before it floats away into the water. Don't do this until the
new filters are cycled. Watch for ammonia and nitrite spikes afterward>
Second question: is there any catfish similar to the giraffe cat that cleans the
gravel like it does but does not get as big as the giraffe?
<There is a dwarf giraffe catfish, to 8". See here:
http://www.planetcatfish.com/cotm/2003_08.php
Third: is it necessary to have a CO2 system for a planted aquarium?
<No, not for most plants, but some need it and all will benefit. If you add one
watch your pH>
Last question: can Plecos be used in a fresh water planted aquarium?
<Yes, most well fed Plecos will not eat your plants. There is always a chance
however, if we're talking about the Common Pleco. I have three Big Spots and
three Bristlenose in a lightly planted tank. Never lost a leaf. There are also
many meat eating Plecos>
Thanks for all of your help,
Jim G
Gravel, UG Filters
Hi There,
Another question from an eager listener.... ;)
With my current set-up: 125 gallon tank, 2 baby Arowanas (jardinii and yellow
tail), and 2 Emperor 400 power filters......I am wondering if I can put gravel
to cover the bottom of my fish tank??? I usually just scoop up every morning
and night the "poops" of the fishes and 20% water change every week to avoid
ammonia and toxic build up.
<<Hi there. First, you should buy extensions for your Emperor intakes, that will
help a bit with circulation, the filters will be able to suck up waste from a
lower level.>>
What are the disadvantages of putting gravel in my tank? How will I be able to
clean it and remove the "poops"?
<<You can buy a gravel siphon at any decent Local Fish Store. (LFS).>>
Will just stirring the gravel and using a vacuum do the trick to clean them?
<<Gravel vacuuming will do the trick. Vacuuming with your siphon should be done
weekly, when you do a water change. Not only does a siphon remove detritus from
the gravel, it removes water at the same time. Use a good thermometer, take it
to the sink with you when you start filling buckets to re-fill the tank
with...the water should be the same temp! Add dechlorinator to each bucket as
you re-fill. Better yet, buy yourself a Python. Ask for these handy hose kits at
your LFS.>>
Will I be needing an undergravel filter for this set-up? Or will my 2 Emperor
400 power filters be enough? What if I make it 3 Emperor 400's?
<<Undergravel filters are more trouble than they are worth, IME. Your two
Emperors should be sufficient for the time being, you only have two small arows
in this tank. You should keep in mind that with a larger bio-load, you may need
to add filtration later. In other words, if you add more fish, or when your
arrows are about 6-8 inches or so you may need to upgrade. You should keep an
eye on their growth and on the tank, an overly dirty aquarium means insufficient
filtration, not enough water changes, and/or inadequate maintenance is being
done. You will realize it IF the time comes.>>
It is just a laborious duty to have an undergravel filter.....plus in time, a
build up of wastes...will lower the ph of the tank......are some of the reasons
why I am hesitant using undergravel filter.
<<I agree. There are many filters out there that are much easier to maintain,
and do a great job. No need for UGF's at all.>>
Thanks, Antonio
<<Welcome.
-Gwen>>
Undergravel filtration, and funky water quality
Dear fish saviors,
<Good afternoon, Kaz - Sabrina here with you this lovely (rainy) lunch hour>
I've had a long and generally successful fishkeeping career but this year 2 of
my goldfish died (at ages 19 and 17 years old).
<Oh my. What a loss. I'm so sorry to hear that.>
Only one sad survivor was left. I was away, the water went 'off' and they died
:( Anyway, I worked hard to stabilize the tank with the Lone Black Moor (who had
some scars, general poor condition, floating prob.s etc). He came good and after
a few months I got LBM some friends - a small comet and a small fantail. My
problems came back. The new guys were hungry all the time and I am guilty of
giving in to their shameless begging.
<Just say 'no'! to fish obesity ;) >
Also I changed fish food on advice of LFS (sinking pellets, 34% protein) and am
not sure if this has contributed to the instability.
<And what were you feeding with before? Do your guys get any vegetable matter?>
LBM seemed happier and with more energy but developed two little white spotty
bits on his head. These then seem to have gone away (I treated with fungal cure)
but he has a new one further back on his head.
<Can you describe this in a bit further detail? Do the spots stick out? Or are
they pits? Are they fuzzy looking? Waxy looking? Look like cauliflower? How
big are they?>
After uncontrollable Ph problems I checked with LFS and changed my filtration
system (from charcoal and wool type filter to undergravel filtration).
<Filtration isn't very directly related to pH swings (except as far as organic
materials building up), I can't imagine why they told you to switch....>
But my question is (I know its very naive but..) how to I keep it clean? I have
used the gravel siphon cleaner thingie and have done a 25% water change since I
got the UGF two weeks ago but my plants are disintegrating.
<Argh. UGF and live plants do *not* play well together, and there's not much of
a way to make 'em work out. Your only plant species is elodea,
correct? Perhaps try letting it float only, and see if it grows any better.>
We work in centimetres and litres here in Australia
<I wish we did, too!>
so I'm not sure of how many gallons but tank is 24inches x 12inches x 12inches.
It is certainly not overcrowded, with the LBM and his two new little friends and
the plants are (or were) Elodea.
<Okay, I do believe that's about 15 US gallons. I usually recommend goldfish to
be kept in tanks where they'll have 15-20 gallons per fish; they are hefty waste
producers, and can foul the water very, very quickly. Three goldfish in a 15g
aquarium with an undergravel filter.... well, I can guess that in short order,
you'll have some serious nitrate problems, possibly other water quality issues,
even with the best maintenance possible.>
How do I clean the crud which I assume is collecting under the plastic UGF
tray???
<Wonderful question. I've heard using silicone air hose fed down the lift
tube(s) and siphoning from there will help get some of the grunge out.>
Should I go easy on the gravel siphon thingie?
<Gosh, no. Vacuum like a madman. And slap that wet/dry filter back on the
tank, too. Then when you vacuum your gravel, let the filter cartridge stay in
the filter so you've got plenty of bacterial life still around. Probably only
vacuum about half the tank each time, as well.>
Did another partial change today and the fish are happy and starving but there
are lots of floaty bits of plant matter still in there. Should I siphon these
out?
<Yes, absolutely. Dead, decaying plant matter will contribute to ammonia
problems just as will fish waste.>
When I do water changes I use Cycle, ammonia treatment,
<Skip the ammonia remover, unless you're registering ammonia on your ammonia
test - oho, I should mention/ask that you should be testing for ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, and pH - if you don't, please do get yourself a kit, so you
can have a better grip on your water quality. And far better than using ammonia
remover schtuff is to simply do more frequent water changes.>
pH stabilizer,
<What's the pH out of your tap? It's far more important to keep pH stable than
to keep affecting it chemically; goldfish are very pH tolerant, so if your
tapwater's anywhere close to decent, they'll be fine with out pH altering
chemicals.>
StressZyme, Tristart chlorine and chloramine remover. I let the water sit for
24hours, make sure the temp is the same etc.
<Wonderful.>
My main concern is that I found out from your site that UGF require lots of work
but what work? can you let me know what I need to do to keep my friends happy!
<Mostly the weekly vacuuming of gravel, jamming air hose down lift tubes. UGFs
must be cleaned thoroughly and religiously, lest all that waste building up in
the gravel begin to poison the fish. If it is in any way whatsoever possible,
please please try to get a larger tank for these fellahs. Believe me, they'd
thank you for it. Wishing you and your scaly pals well, -Sabrina>
Cheers, Kaz
Undergravel filtration, and funky water quality - take two
Thanks, Sabrina,
Will head off and get the testing kit today.
<Wonderful! Try to get a liquid reagent type kit, the test 'strips' that you
just dip in the water can be grossly inaccurate.>
I suppose what puzzles me is how come I could keep the same number of goldfish
(and same type) in the same tank for 8 years (since the last fish arrived) with
little problem - long living and happy fish - and now everything's going
wrong??
<Likely when you went away and the water turned south started your
problems. These are really, really messy, waste producing fish, and in such a
small tank, missing even one regular water change will result in a buildup of
waste toxic enough to kill them. Hence the major reason I usually recommend
15-20 US gallons per goldfish, there's SO much more room for error in a larger
tank.>
The white spots on the remaining old fish are small and very white, about large
pinhead size, they seem to stick out and after a few days just fade to nothing.
<This sounds like either Lymphocystis or fish pox, both of which can be found in
goldfish from time to time. Lymphocystis is kinda cauliflower-like in
appearance, whereas fish pox looks rather waxy. Both are viral infections, and
there is no treatment. Fortunately, neither are often fatal. Just maintain the
best water quality you can, with regular water changes and testing, and he
should be fine.>
Apart from plants in the tank I don't give them any veggies - should
I? Thanks! Kaz
<Couldn't hurt. Mine adore unsalted canned peas (rinse, and squeeze the inside
of the pea out of the shell). Blanched zucchini is another good one. Lots of
goodies out there for them, but just the Elodea will do, if necessary. Best
wishes to you, -Sabrina>
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