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FAQs on Bichirs, Family Polypteridae Behavior

Related Articles: Bichirs

Related FAQs: Bichirs 1, & Bichir Identification, Bichir Behavior, Bichir Compatibility, Bichir Selection, Bichir Systems, Bichir Feeding, Bichir Disease, Bichir Reproduction, & FAQs on: Ropefish 1, Ropefish 2, & Ropefish ID, Ropefish Behavior, Ropefish Compatibility, Ropefish Selection, Ropefish Systems, Ropefish Feeding, Ropefish Health, Ropefish Reproduction,

A Polypterus senegalus... doing with Bichirs do most of the time... hang out.

Bichir question 11/13/08
Hi. I hope this is the correct area for this question. Sorry, my Internet knowledge is fairly limited.  I have two young bichirs that I purchased in February. One is a Polypterus delhezi and the other is a Polypterus palmas butikoferi. While the delhezi has doubled in length and girth, the butikoferi hasn't grown at all as far as I can tell. Still only about 4 inches long, and not much thicker than a pencil. They're together in a 30 gallon tank (with a 75 for future use), which gets twice monthly cleanings. I feed them a combination of frozen silversides and Hikari carnivore pellets. The delhezi is a pig, so I frequently get to see him eat, but I have yet to actually observe my butikoferi in the act of eating. I'm assuming she (I have no idea of actual gender) must eat something, as she is still alive. I would think that the delhezi is hogging all the food, except I always overfeed, and have to clean extra silversides out the next morning.  My questions are these: do palmas butikoferi grow more slowly than other species? I can't find much info online about "gold dust bichirs" in general. Or is there some non-communicable disease that might slow down growth. Are there maybe dwarves in the bichir world? She seems otherwise healthy.
Thanks,
Danielle
<Hello Danielle. There are a bunch of things going on here. To start with, while Polypterus species generally grow slowly, Polypterus delhezi is noted for having a rapid growth spurt when young, getting to 20-30 cm quite quickly, but then growth rate slows down considerably. Polypterus palmas has a slower, more uniform growth rate. There are is considerable variation in temperament between different Polypterus species, with some being much more aggressive feeders than other. Polypterus palmas is a comparatively mild species, which is one reason that the Polypterus palmas species complex has become popular with aquarists. I suspect that there is some bullying going on in the tank, and part of the problem may be that the Polypterus palmas just can't get enough to eat. Using small food items (such as bloodworms) would help by making it difficult for the larger Polypterus delhezi to hog all the food. It's worth mentioning that Polypterus palmas feeds extensively on insects and crustaceans in the wild, and the calcium present in unshelled crustaceans such as krill is especially important because it helps these fish to produce their hard scales. In fact bichirs across the board do best when given a diet rich in calcium, though in the larger species frozen whitebait and lancefish should provide this in the form of bones and scales. Next up, do always remember the golden rule: if (non-green) food isn't eaten in 5 minutes, remove it!
Messing up water quality isn't going to help the situation. I suspect that the problem here is social, and these two fish will need to be either put into a much bigger tank, or else kept in different tanks. Cheers, Neale.>  

Re: Bichir question 11/13/08
Thanks so much for the info. I'm definitely going to try the bloodworm suggestion. If that doesn't work, then I'll separate them.
<Suspect this may be on the cards anyway, but certainly worth trying alternative foods. Bichirs don't normally "play nicely" with each other, and all species can exhibit some degree of snappiness as they mature.>
But will that be setting me up for aggression issues later on if I try to reintroduce them?
<Almost certainly yes; once territorial fish have established their territories, adding rival fish to the tank, particularly smaller/weaker ones, tends to work out badly.>
They get along fine (other than possible food fights) now. Thanks.
<Bichirs are really best kept one to a tank. Possibly in a larger group you might dilute aggression, and if none could hold a territory, then no-one becomes the bully. This is why fish in retailer's tanks often seem peaceful: they're overcrowded. This isn't always viable in the home aquarium though because of water quality issues. Life may be easier for you to put one Bichir in each tank and be done with it. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Ornate Bichir; diet, social behaviour... comp., sys.    8/8/08
Hello again, sorry for sending so many e-mails...
<Getting used to it!>
You mentioned in the previous e-mail that Oscars are good companions, yet when I read the FAQ and profile section for the Oscar, they seem to be rather aggressive. The Ornate Bichir is hardy, but I'm not sure if the Oscar will constantly pester the Bichir, as it is slow compared to the Cichlid. I'm also not sure if the 120 litre tank can hold the Oscar when it grows larger (not sure how fast they grow).
<Oscars are territorial and aggressive when spawning. And by community fish standards, they're entirely unsuitable for maintenance with, say, Angelfish! But for a big fish they are relatively docile and work perfectly well with anything they don't view as either food or a rival. They mix well with large, peaceful Polypterus spp.>
Also:-
<Hmm...?>
"Oversized and tough are by-words here. Oscars are messy fishes to put it gently... and destructive toward objects like siphons and tubing in their systems. Outside power filters (more than one) are fine IF they are of the type that pull water into their boxes (versus gravity fed siphons), and even these are better retrofitted with suction cups on their in-tank parts. Canister filters of good design are fine, but must be regularly (as in weekly) removed for cleaning. Ideal arrangements for Oscar systems include outside sump type filtration fitted with external pumps and internal overflows and returns. Whatever mechanical means you set upon, make the filtration easy to maintain and over-size in terms of capacity and flow."
<All pretty accurate.>
"Heaters, filter parts, tubing... are all just play things to Oscars. Hide, remote, attach with suction cups... anything you want to stay in place... for a while."
<Yep.>
From the article on your website, they seem to cause problems with the filter equipment. The 120 litre tank I have is run by the "bubblelator" and box filter system with a UV light attachment, that means the Oscar will/might disturb my filter system right?
<Oscars will move/uproot/destroy anything they can. Partly its territorial, and partly its curiosity. In any case you need to use robust equipment and put as much as you can *outside* the tank. For example external heaters that you add to the external canister filter return tube works better than sticking a glass heater inside the tank.>
Also you mentioned medium sized Severums would be good as well, Heros Severus is quite peaceful from the article and it seems relatively well sized as well as pH range, good to keep with Ornate Bichir?
<Would be ideal. Other Heros species likewise, such as the amazing 'Rotkeil' (or "red head") Heros appendiculatus if you can find it. Traded but expensive here in England. But stunning fish.>
Thanks.
- Gene
<Cheers, Neale.>

Weird Bichir behavior – 06/08/07
Hi,
<Hello.>
As I understand it, Bichirs should be bottom-dwelling fish, but my 4-inch Senegal Bichir is spending a surprising amount of time at the top of the tank.
<Not a problem. For a start, Bichirs are obligate air breathers, and need to gulp air every few minutes.>
I'd say he spends about 1/4 of his time at the top, either actively swimming or resting on some floating plants.
<If your tank is exceptionally deep, the Bichir may prefer to "perch" close to the surface so he can get a gulp of air more easily. For a 4-inch Bichir, the tank shouldn't be more than 18 inches deep, and ideally rather less.>
My guess is that he just wants some more distance between himself and my small Cory & Pleco, but I wanted to make sure this wasn't indicating some bigger problem.
<I can't imagine a Bichir being bothered by either of these species.>
Other than his love of floating plants, everything seems normal about him - he's active and
eating well.
<Then probably nothing to worry about. These are delightful fish, one of the nicest of all the Bichirs, and generally hardy and long-lived. Enjoy your fish.>
Thanks,
-Michael
<Cheers, Neale>

Polypterus senegalus, beh., hlth.    5/20/07
Hi
<Hello.>
My Polypterus senegalus has recently stared to eat the stones in the tank, I was just wondering if this is natural or could there be a problem with my fish?
<It is extremely *unnatural*. Bichirs are predators that hunt by smell. So they don't normally eat stones. Are you feeding it enough? If so, what are you feeding it? The ideal diet for Bichirs are frozen bloodworms, small pieces of mussel and prawn, and small amounts of frozen fish such as whitebait. Some Bichirs will also eat pellets. Unless you are breeding your own livebearers, do not use live feeder fish and UNDER NO circumstances use goldfish/minnows bought from pet stores, as these are parasite bombs. If you want to use live food, things like mealworms and earthworms are ideal, being clean and easy to obtain.>
Hope to hear from you soon,
<Well, here I am.>
Dave.
<Cheers, Neale>






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