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FAQs on Bichirs, Family Polypteridae
Behavior
Related Articles: Bichirs,
Related FAQs: Bichirs
1, & Bichir Identification,
Bichir Behavior,
Bichir Compatibility,
Bichir Selection,
Bichir Systems, Bichir Feeding,
Bichir Disease,
Bichir Reproduction, & FAQs on: Ropefish 1,
Ropefish 2, &
Ropefish ID, Ropefish Behavior,
Ropefish Compatibility,
Ropefish Selection,
Ropefish Systems,
Ropefish Feeding,
Ropefish Health,
Ropefish Reproduction,
A Polypterus senegalus... doing with Bichirs do most of
the time... hang out.
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Bichir question 11/13/08
Hi. I hope this is the correct area for this question. Sorry, my Internet
knowledge is fairly limited. I have two young bichirs that I purchased in
February. One is a Polypterus delhezi and the other is a Polypterus palmas
butikoferi. While the delhezi has doubled in length and girth, the butikoferi
hasn't grown at all as far as I can tell. Still only about 4 inches long, and
not much thicker than a pencil. They're together in a 30 gallon tank (with a 75
for future use), which gets twice monthly cleanings. I feed them a combination
of frozen silversides and Hikari carnivore pellets. The delhezi is a pig, so I
frequently get to see him eat, but I have yet to actually observe my butikoferi
in the act of eating. I'm assuming she (I have no idea of actual gender) must
eat something, as she is still alive. I would think that the delhezi is hogging
all the food, except I always overfeed, and have to clean extra silversides out
the next morning. My questions are these: do palmas butikoferi grow more
slowly than other species? I can't find much info online about "gold dust
bichirs" in general. Or is there some non-communicable disease that might slow
down growth. Are there maybe dwarves in the bichir world? She seems otherwise
healthy.
Thanks,
Danielle
<Hello Danielle. There are a bunch of things going on here. To start with, while
Polypterus species generally grow slowly, Polypterus delhezi is noted for having
a rapid growth spurt when young, getting to 20-30 cm quite quickly, but then
growth rate slows down considerably. Polypterus palmas has a slower, more
uniform growth rate. There are is considerable variation in temperament between
different Polypterus species, with some being much more aggressive feeders than
other. Polypterus palmas is a comparatively mild species, which is one reason
that the Polypterus palmas species complex has become popular with aquarists. I
suspect that there is some bullying going on in the tank, and part of the
problem may be that the Polypterus palmas just can't get enough to eat. Using
small food items (such as bloodworms) would help by making it difficult for the
larger Polypterus delhezi to hog all the food. It's worth mentioning that
Polypterus palmas feeds extensively on insects and crustaceans in the wild, and
the calcium present in unshelled crustaceans such as krill is especially
important because it helps these fish to produce their hard scales. In fact
bichirs across the board do best when given a diet rich in calcium, though in
the larger species frozen whitebait and lancefish should provide this in the
form of bones and scales. Next up, do always remember the golden rule: if
(non-green) food isn't eaten in 5 minutes, remove it!
Messing up water quality isn't going to help the situation. I suspect that the
problem here is social, and these two fish will need to be either put into a
much bigger tank, or else kept in different tanks. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Bichir question 11/13/08
Thanks so much for the info. I'm definitely going to try the bloodworm
suggestion. If that doesn't work, then I'll separate them. <Suspect this may
be on the cards anyway, but certainly worth trying alternative foods. Bichirs
don't normally "play nicely" with each other, and all species can exhibit some
degree of snappiness as they mature.> But will that be setting me up for
aggression issues later on if I try to reintroduce them? <Almost certainly
yes; once territorial fish have established their territories, adding rival fish
to the tank, particularly smaller/weaker ones, tends to work out badly.> They
get along fine (other than possible food fights) now. Thanks. <Bichirs are
really best kept one to a tank. Possibly in a larger group you might dilute
aggression, and if none could hold a territory, then no-one becomes the bully.
This is why fish in retailer's tanks often seem peaceful: they're overcrowded.
This isn't always viable in the home aquarium though because of water quality
issues. Life may be easier for you to put one Bichir in each tank and be done
with it. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ornate Bichir; diet, social
behaviour... comp., sys. 8/8/08
Hello again, sorry for sending so many e-mails...
<Getting used to it!>
You mentioned in the previous e-mail that Oscars are good companions, yet when I
read the FAQ and profile section for the Oscar, they seem to be rather
aggressive. The Ornate Bichir is hardy, but I'm not sure if the Oscar will
constantly pester the Bichir, as it is slow compared to the Cichlid. I'm also
not sure if the 120 litre tank can hold the Oscar when it grows larger (not sure
how fast they grow).
<Oscars are territorial and aggressive when spawning. And by community fish
standards, they're entirely unsuitable for maintenance with, say, Angelfish! But
for a big fish they are relatively docile and work perfectly well with anything
they don't view as either food or a rival. They mix well with large, peaceful
Polypterus spp.>
Also:-
<Hmm...?>
"Oversized and tough are by-words here. Oscars are messy fishes to put it
gently... and destructive toward objects like siphons and tubing in their
systems. Outside power filters (more than one) are fine IF they are of the type
that pull water into their boxes (versus gravity fed siphons), and even these
are better retrofitted with suction cups on their in-tank parts. Canister
filters of good design are fine, but must be regularly (as in weekly) removed
for cleaning. Ideal arrangements for Oscar systems include outside sump type
filtration fitted with external pumps and internal overflows and returns.
Whatever mechanical means you set upon, make the filtration easy to maintain and
over-size in terms of capacity and flow."
<All pretty accurate.>
"Heaters, filter parts, tubing... are all just play things to Oscars. Hide,
remote, attach with suction cups... anything you want to stay in place... for a
while."
<Yep.>
From the article on your website, they seem to cause problems with the filter
equipment. The 120 litre tank I have is run by the "bubblelator" and box filter
system with a UV light attachment, that means the Oscar will/might disturb my
filter system right?
<Oscars will move/uproot/destroy anything they can. Partly its territorial, and
partly its curiosity. In any case you need to use robust equipment and put as
much as you can *outside* the tank. For example external heaters that you add to
the external canister filter return tube works better than sticking a glass
heater inside the tank.>
Also you mentioned medium sized Severums would be good as well, Heros Severus is
quite peaceful from the article and it seems relatively well sized as well as pH
range, good to keep with Ornate Bichir?
<Would be ideal. Other Heros species likewise, such as the amazing 'Rotkeil' (or
"red head") Heros appendiculatus if you can find it. Traded but expensive here
in England. But stunning fish.>
Thanks.
- Gene
<Cheers, Neale.>
Weird Bichir behavior – 06/08/07
Hi,
<Hello.>
As I understand it, Bichirs should be bottom-dwelling fish, but my 4-inch
Senegal Bichir is spending a surprising amount of time at the top of the
tank.
<Not a problem. For a start, Bichirs are obligate air breathers, and need to
gulp air every few minutes.>
I'd say he spends about 1/4 of his time at the top, either actively swimming
or resting on some floating plants.
<If your tank is exceptionally deep, the Bichir may prefer to "perch" close
to the surface so he can get a gulp of air more easily. For a 4-inch Bichir,
the tank shouldn't be more than 18 inches deep, and ideally rather less.>
My guess is that he just wants some more distance between himself and my
small Cory & Pleco, but I wanted to make sure this wasn't indicating some
bigger problem.
<I can't imagine a Bichir being bothered by either of these species.>
Other than his love of floating plants, everything seems normal about him -
he's active and
eating well.
<Then probably nothing to worry about. These are delightful fish, one of the
nicest of all the Bichirs, and generally hardy and long-lived. Enjoy your
fish.>
Thanks,
-Michael
<Cheers, Neale>
Polypterus senegalus, beh., hlth. 5/20/07
Hi
<Hello.>
My Polypterus senegalus has recently stared to eat the stones in the tank, I
was just wondering if this is natural or could there be a problem with my
fish?
<It is extremely *unnatural*. Bichirs are predators that hunt by smell. So
they don't normally eat stones. Are you feeding it enough? If so, what are
you feeding it? The ideal diet for Bichirs are frozen bloodworms, small
pieces of mussel and prawn, and small amounts of frozen fish such as
whitebait. Some Bichirs will also eat pellets. Unless you are breeding your
own livebearers, do not use live feeder fish and UNDER NO circumstances use
goldfish/minnows bought from pet stores, as these are parasite bombs. If you
want to use live food, things like mealworms and earthworms are ideal, being
clean and easy to obtain.>
Hope to hear from you soon,
<Well, here I am.>
Dave.
<Cheers, Neale>
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