|
dead SAE 8/27/09
Hi,
The Siamese algae eater I've had for at least 1 1/2 years died suddenly.
<As always, do a check of water conditions, at minimum, temperature, pH,
and nitrite. Don't leave this too long after the death -- a nitrite
spike for example can die down within hours, so a nitrite test you do
too late
won't tell you much of anything.>
I found him floating vertically at the bottom of the tank tonight, with
a slightly reddened abdomen and what appear to be some of his intestines
floating outside of his body. This seems pretty specific, not the
typical
fish death I've seen.
<Unfortunately, it's not at all specific. The red abdomen is pretty
common, and simply implies blood has collected there, or else the skin
has been damaged by a scavenger of some kind. As for the guts hanging
out, if your tank has something like a Plec or other scavenger, the
belly of a dead fish will be quickly opened up.>
Any ideas what caused this?
<Almost always, sudden, premature deaths are caused by environmental
issues. The chances of anything else being to cause are very small.
Check water quality is good, water chemistry stable, temperature is
where it should be, circulation of the water remains sound, and that
there's been no nearby use of insect sprays, paints, or anything else
that might poison the water. I'll make a general point here: tanks that
are fine for years sometimes "go bad" when people have underestimated
the amount of aquarium space and/or filtration required. A tank that
worked when your Siamese Algae Eater was a baby might not work once the
fish was full grown. As the fish grow, water quality and/or chemistry
will become inadequate, fish will
die off, until the aquarium settles down to its maximum stocking level.>
Thanks,
Merrill
<Cheers, Neale.>
Siamese Algae Eater Question, beh.
7/6/08
Hi,
Two of my Siamese algae eaters constantly do this strange thing where they
look like they are attacking each other, but no harm is being done. When
they do this, they take turns - one looking like the aggressor and the other
the just rotating while being "attacked". They do this for about 10-15
minutes each time. I have four SAEs in my tank, but it's only the largest
two who do this. Should I be worried about this behavior or is this normal
for them?
Thank you,
Lydia
<Hello Lydia. What you describe is very normal indeed. Crossocheilus
siamensis is a schooling fish in the wild, but when kept in very small
numbers (such as four) the stronger fish will chase the weaker fish. This
happens with other schooling fish sometimes, most notoriously Tiger Barbs.
In any case, the solution is simple: buy at least two more specimens, and
you should find they settle down and school together properly. Occasional
chases will still happen, but not enough to worry about or to stress any one
fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Siamese Algae Eaters as Betta
Companions... No 10/22/07
Hey, all!
<Tori>
My roommate and I are planning our first aquarium, and she really loves the male
Betta fish. I’d like to get an Eclipse 5 gallon tank, and I’m looking at getting
some algae eaters as well. I know that Corys make good Betta companions, but
I’ve heard positive things about Siamese Algae Eaters, namely that they’re not
as aggressive as the Chinese ones and are smaller. Would these be all right to
get, or should I stick with the Corys or some Cherry Shrimp?
<These latter are far better companions/choices... Along with maybe large
non-hermaphroditic snails. SAE's require much more pristine, larger
conditions...>
Also, would it help my fish to get along better if I bought a tank that is
longer as opposed to taller, so that bottom feeders would have more space?
<Yes... much better for all>
(I’m looking at the Eclipse Hexagon versus the Eclipse Corner.)
Thank you!
~ Tori
<Thank you! I like the way you think! Bob Fenner>
Siamese Algae Eaters killing
Shrimp? 10/14/07
Hi,
Great Site!
I recently purchased 2 Siamese Algae Eaters (as far as I can see the are the
real ones, not just flying foxes etc) to add to my 70L tank. The tank had one
overly curious Zebra Loach, some Neon Tetras and two large-ish Amano Shrimps.
Before buying the SEA's I checked whether they would cause any problems with
anything I had in there, just in case, and nothing came up. They're only small
at the moment, about 2.5 cm.
So I bought some. The next morning after putting them in the tank I noticed one
of my Amano Shrimps laying dead in the entrance to a pipe that I've laid under
the gravel for the loach to hide in, his lair if you will. And the other shrimp
was hiding on the ground and struggling to move (later that evening I found him
half eaten at the front of the tank).
Is it possible that these two SAEs killed both my shrimp that were if anything a
cm bigger than them?
Failing that how about my Zebra Loach? He was always chasing after them, but
mainly around feeding times when they were partial to nicking his pellets. But
they had been fine for the year or so that I had them together for.
Thanks in advance for your help in solving my mystery!
Andy
<Andy, SAEs, and indeed most small Crossocheilus/Epalzeorhynchus-type fish are
relatively harmless towards shrimp. Many "Amano" style aquaria mix the two
animals together. On the other hand, Loaches are dedicated invertebrate feeders,
and many species are equipped with strong jaws expressly modified to crush
shells. Shrimps are especially vulnerable at moulting times, and it may well be
that your Loach had ignored them until one particular moulting event where "he
had a bit of a nibble" and found the results were tasty! Cheers, Neale.>
Crossocheilus denisonii in a
community aquarium 8/23/07
Hello WWM crew!
<Hello!>
I have a 65 gallon tall planted tank (dimensions are 30" Tall, 28" Wide, and 18"
deep), it has been running for about 6 months and I am considering adding a
small group of Crossocheilus denisonii. The current inhabitants are:
8 Female Betta splendens
5 Melanotaenia lacustris
9 Brochis splendens
3 Caridina multidentata
5 unidentified algae shrimp, the LFS called them "Blueberry shrimp" overall
brownish with a little blue tint, especially on the belly, overall the size and
body shape looks exactly like the Amanos
and a few ghost shrimp
<Very nice selection of beasties. I'm a great fan of Brochis spp., a sadly
overlooked but very rewarding fish.>
The Bettas came from an earlier smaller tank that got converted to salt water,
they have been living happily together for almost a year. They don’t bother each
other or any of the other inhabitants, although they like to play with the Corys
sometimes, following them around on their scavenging and mimicking them, its
kind of funny to watch really... (I don't believe they do it because they are
hungry, as they get as many bloodworms as they can eat in a few minutes every
other day, and they get to snack daily on some of the micro pellets for the
Melanotaenia lacustris. Plus they usually take a bite or two out of the wafers
for the Corys as they are sinking to the bottom…)
<I've had similar experiences with female Betta, and consider them rather jolly
animals, and much more fun (and easier to keep) than the males.>
I eventually plan on rounding out the stocking with a group of 30-50
Paracheirodon axelrodi, and perhaps a handful of Carnegiella strigata as
replacements to the Bettas if I decide to move them back into a smaller Betta
only tank (but they seem to be enjoying the community tank, so I am leaning
towards leaving them...) The cardinal's I plan on adding weekly in groups of 10
until I get a dense enough shoal, I will also be adding a second canister filter
around the time I start adding the cardinals....
<Very good. I love hatchetfish (we have similar tastes in fish, I suspect) and
have found them to be quite entertaining animals. Not long lived though, 3-4
years seems about the tops. But definitely "something different".>
Anyway my main question is would one or a small group of Crossocheilus denisonii
be appropriate in this community? I have read conflicting reports on their
temperament ranging from them being extremely docile for Barbs and enjoying
being housed in small schools to them being highly aggressive towards their own
kind and everything else in the tank. I am going for a peaceful community here,
but I would like a few larger fish as the centerpiece for the aquarium, and I
don’t think I can keep up with the water change regimen for discus... so if
Crossocheilus denisonii is not a good candidate for this setup I would love to
hear a few suggestions for me to research for something that will be eye
catching and reach a size around 4-6" that will be peaceful in a group of 1-5 in
this community.
<Crossocheilus denisonii is a difficult fish in many ways. For a start, it's a
subtropical fish, and in tropical tanks I suspect by analogy with other
subtropical fish you're not going to see this fish at their best. Lifespan is
probably less, too. Anyway, while they work with rainbowfish, clown loaches,
plecs, and other robust species of similar size, I wouldn't trust them with
small tetras, Betta spp., or shrimps. They're basically on par with something
like a red-tail shark.>
I also have three other quick questions: one; how many algae shrimp would be
appropriate for a tank this size?
<As many as you want.>
two: when I first added the rainbows there were three, and they did nothing but
hide for a week, I figured that the group was too small and added two more,
within 20 minutes all 5 were out in the open and schooling around, but one of
the original three became dominant rather quick, he chases the other 4 around on
a semi regular basis, but doesn’t seem to pick on any one more than the others,
this behavior is typically the worst around feeding time. Is this anything I
should be overly concerned with? my LFS will exchange him for another one if I
want, or I have been thinking of adding 2 more to increase the group to 7 (and
maybe down the road increasing it to 9) would that have any effect of the
behavior?
<Not 100% typical behaviour for rainbows, but not unknown either. Adding some
more *females* may help calm things down. But otherwise, don't worry too much.>
and my last question: I have had a small amount of blue-green (I think) algae
showing up on some of the leaves of some of the plants, I think the cause was
lack of circulation in the bottom of the tank, I added a powerhead and that
seems to have done the trick, it is gone from the plants that were only lightly
affected, but a few have some patches that are not going away. none of the
plants were expensive, and most were given to me by friends, and I have no
problem throwing them out and replacing them if that is the best course of
action, but I would appreciate any suggestions on how to alleviate this that you
have, I would like to get it under control (as in completely out of the tank… as
I understand it Blue-green algae is BAD) before I add any new fish.
<Blue-green algae isn't "bad" in the sense of harming your fish. But it is "bad"
in the sense of being difficult to eradicate. The only practical solution is
removing infected leaves or objects on sight. Once it's established, I've not
yet found a reliable way of removing it completely. What is true is that certain
things encourage it: high nitrates/phosphates, compacted substrates, direct
sunlight for example. As ever, getting the vascular plants to grow abundantly
and rapidly is the single best way to inhibit algae/blue-green algae growth.>
Thanks for all the help!
~Bryan
<Good luck, Neale>
Re: Crossocheilus denisonii
in a community aquarium 8/23/07
Dear Neale,
<Hello Bryan,>
thanks for responding so fast! Well if the Crossocheilus are subtropical then
they are definitely out, I keep the tank right around 77-78 F.
<Fishbase gives a preferred temperature range of 15-25 C, which is 59-77 F. The
optimum is somewhere in the middle, around 20 C/68 F.>
Excluding Discus do you have any suggestions for a "centerpiece" for this tank?
I'd love to keep Discus, but I’m hesitant to try as I don’t want to kill a $50
fish.... (or any fish for that matter) I typically do two 10 gallon water
changes a week (sometimes one 15-20 gallon change if I am really busy) I don’t
think I can manage more than two maybe three water changes per week in the long
run, but I could certainly change more water at each water change... would I be
better off not trying to keep Discus?
<Modern, tank-bred discus are much easier to keep than their wild-caught
ancestors. Assuming you have some experience of keeping fish, then there's no
reason not to try keeping discus. The big mistake people make with discus is
keeping them too cold -- they really do need higher-than-average temperatures,
around the 28-30C/82-86 F. When kept too cold, their immune and digestive
systems don't work so well, and that leads to them becoming sickly. Not all
tropical fish will tolerate such conditions. Check your species against a
reliable aquarium book or on Fishbase if you want to keep discus in this
aquarium.>
I couldn't agree with you more on the Corys, they are by far the most
entertaining fish I keep (including saltwater) and I only wish I had a long tank
instead of a tall one so I could keep more of them... originally I had planned
on keeping the tank confined to a South American / Amazon biotope, but the
bettas moved in… and I just had to have the rainbows…
<I'm the same. My big community tank contains fish from South America, Africa
and Southeast Asia. I don't really see a big deal with doing this, though I
appreciate the idea of creating biotope aquaria. But sometimes you have to work
with the fish available in your neighbourhood, and that means bending the
rules.>
Anyway I thought of a few more questions after I sent the first email.... first
of all if I decided to add a few Carnegiella strigata could I keep the bettas in
the tank or would it be more advisable to move them as both species fill the
same niche? And what is an appropriate sized group for hatchets?
<I'd tend to recommend against Carnegiella and towards Thoracocharax and
Gasteropelecus spp if you can. The latter two genera tend to contain more robust
species that handle the rough and tumble of a community tank rather better than
little Carnegiella. As for how hatchets would interact with the Betta... they
probably wouldn't. Hatchets stay in the open water, Betta stay among the plants.
Hatchets aren't strict surface dwellers, or at least Thoracocharax and
Gasteropelecus aren't. They dip down as much as 10 cm from the surface, only
really going to the very top at feeding time. My Gasteropelecus sternicula are
fairly pushy little creatures and have acquitted themselves well with halfbeaks
as far as surface feeding goes, so I don't reckon you'll have problems.>
Also, when the tank was first set up I put in about a dozen ghost shrimp of
varying sizes, now there seem to be only two or three of the larger ones left,
could something be snacking on them? Or is it more likely just a life cycle
thing? I haven’t noticed any Amano's or "Blueberries" going missing, and they
are substantially smaller than the Ghost Shrimp... (better knock on wood after
that one…) And lastly do you have a guess at what the "Blueberries" might be? I
was thinking they may just be a color variant of one of the more common types
such as Caridina japonica or Neocaridina heteropoda, the general size and body
structure seems to be the same, it's just the coloration that is different...
(by the way one got up pretty high on the tank on a piece of airline tubing and
a got a good look at him backlit by the halide, backlit they are partially
transparent and you can really see the blue...) I will try to get a picture, but
I don’t know if my camera is good enough to get good detail on something that
small...
<Freshwater shrimps are odd like this. Sometimes they thrive, and sometimes they
don't. I've started keeping cherry shrimps, and have been pleasantly surprised
to discover they multiply quite quickly, so in the space of about two months
I've gone from having two to having around a dozen. But cherry shrimps don't
have marine/brackish water larval stages so do well in aquaria for their entire
life cycle. Amano shrimps, on the other hand, won't breed in aquaria because the
larvae develop in brackish/salt water. Some people have done this, but it's a
chore, and beyond what the average hobbyist is going to want to do. Shrimps tend
to require clean water and most aren't wild about acid pH or low hardness, so
check these factors. They also eat algae and microbes, rather than anything
prepared, so be sure and let some algae grow. I find Java moss works well, too.
It collects fragments of food, and microbes grow in the moss. The shrimps
happily spend hours picking through it.>
Thanks Again!
~Bryan
<Good luck, Neale>
Breeding
Siamese Algae Eaters 7/6/07
Hi: I have searched your site and the web and I'm not finding
anything on raising Siamese Algae Eater fry. I have two SAE's as far as
I can tell in my community tank. See attached pictures. They have been
keeping my beard algae in check.
<Greetings. To the best of my knowledge, Crossocheilus siamensis has not
been bred in home aquaria.>
I put plant clippings from my large community tank in a five gallon tank
to grow them up and replant them in the large community tank. A couple
of days ago I noticed a fry swimming in the tank. It is white/clear with
a slightly yellow body and has a long body like the swordtail fry I use
to raise. I'm guessing it came from an egg attached to one of the plant
clippings. What do I feed it? I have been giving it powdered and liquid
fry food and some frozen baby brine shrimp but I can't tell if it is
eating it. I would like to raise this little guy up to see what it is.
<Almost certainly *is* a Swordtail fry, in which case, a mix of algae
and finely powdered flake is the ideal diet. With baby livebearers, the
"art" is to feed often but in small amounts. Six meals is entirely
standard among 'pro' livebearer breeders. As with any baby animal, their
metabolism is jigged to grow rapidly while eating more or less
continually. As fish mature, their growth rate slows down, which is why
people who underfeed baby fish early on end up with smaller fish that
never get to maximum adult size.>
Any help you can give me would be appreciated. If these are flying foxes
and not true SAE's what do I feed the fry?
<Your fish look like true Crossocheilus siamensis. The Flying Fox
Epalzeorhynchus kalopterus is admittedly similar, with the mid-body band
running onto the tail fin, but Epalzeorhynchus kalopterus also has dark
bands on the dorsal, pelvic, and anal fins, which your specimen appears
to lack. Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus is marginally less peaceful than
Crossocheilus siamensis and is a solitary rather than schooling fish.>
Thanks much.
Marilyn
<Hope this helps, Neale> |
|
|
SAEs, Foxes... sel. 4/24/07
I am also having trouble finding places that sell real Siamese algae
eaters. I've read a lot about how most fish advertised as SAEs are actually
flying foxes, and based on the descriptions, this seems to be the case.
<Often the case, but does it matter? They're all pretty similar, and none of
them are either [a] totally peaceful or [b] going to stop algae growing in your
tank. The flying fox is marginally more aggressive, but in your 55 gallon tank
this shouldn't be an issue. The main thing is you avoid the notorious "Chinese
algae eater" Gyrinocheilus as this is a very disruptive animal. Maybe even
consider something else entirely, like a Bristlenose Plec, which will graze
algae but otherwise keep entirely to itself (and mostly out of view).>
I live in Ann Arbor, do you know of any places that sell SAE's in that area?
<From my vantage point in Berkhamsted, England, I can't really offer any useful
advice on the variety of fishes sold in your area. If all else fails, talk with
your local mom-and-pop tropical fish store, and ask if they'll place a special
order. Many will, particularly if these are fish that they can easily sell once
you've take your pick from the batch. Cheers, Neale>
|
Fish ID 12/14/06
I purchased this fish and forgot the name/type. Can you please ID
this fish?
< You have a Roseline Shark from India, Crossocheilus denisonii.-Chuck>
|
|
 |
Looking For Roseline Sharks, Crossocheilus denisonii - 03/12/2006
Hi Chuck, Thanks for such a speedy reply. Question - Does the roseline
shark go by any other name? I have the Aquarium Atlas by Riehl and Baensch and
was unable to find anything that went by that name. Is there another resource
where I might find a photo? Need to check up on habitat requirements. Thanks
again. Kerry
<Crossocheilus denisonii also goes by the name Denison's Flying Fox or
Denison's Barb. They come from India and like neutral water in the mid 70's.
They get about 6 inches long. You should be able to do a google search on the
internet and find a photo. If not look at the Baensch Atlas Photo Index 1-5.
They are actually much prettier in person than should in that particular
photo.-Chuck>
Pedant/ic alert! - 01/03/2006
Robert,
Sorry, can't help it, but ...
<Heeee!>
"wherefore art thou" means "why are you" not "where are you" as commonly
believed. Juliet was declaiming, "Romeo, why are you in my life?"
supposedly confounding it so terribly, and not asking where is Romeo currently
running around impetuously as most actors have him doing.
<Yep... am semi-aware... and the pitch is sort of...>
So the question, "Wherefore art thou, magical Siamese algae eaters?" could
reasonably be answered, "To magically rid your tank of algae, and not
because of my looks," as their usefulness outstrips their attractiveness.
<Hotay... and don't mean to be so off-center... better question would definitely
be "Wherefore art thou (used in the trade) CAEs? Gyrinocheilus
aymonieri are the "why" fish in this situation/use>
Thank-you for your page on these fish and their imposters. Most helpful,
information I can sure use.
Bo Ure
<And thank you for the lesson in Shakespearean English! BobF>
Bacterial Hemorrhagic Septicemia
Hi guys, I just have a quick question, and was wondering if you could help
me out? I noticed today that my Siamese algae eater has developed some red,
vein-like structures around the base of its head and on its neck. They are not
particularly large, but they are noticeable if you are looking at him. Aside
from this, his behavior has been normal and he seems to be eating fine, and in
good health. So, do you have any idea what these vein-like things might be?
Thanks for answering my question, Mark
<Hi Mark. Your SAE has bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia. Sounds bad, doesn't it?
It's not. It's usually caused by high levels of organic material in the water.
Do a few daily water changes and it should clear up on it's own. Then increase
your regular water change schedule to keep things pristine. Don>
Another Mean Epalzeorhynchus bicolor.... 02/02/2004
Hello I have recently bought a red tail black shark at about 1.5''. I also
bought 2 Platies (one red, one yellow). I just found out that red tail
sharks do not tolerate other fish with red markings.
<Or many other fish, for that fact!>
Unfortunately enough, this is true! The shark has bitten some scales off
the right side of my platy and most of it's tail too!!! It died about 3
days after but the yellow platy is doing fine.
<This aggression is not color-selective.... I suspect it is only a
matter of time before you see aggression toward the yellow fellow. As
they grow, Redtail black sharks tend to become quite aggressive.>
I was wondering just so this doesn't happen again what species would be
compatible with a red tail black shark? (if any)
<Well, tank size would be a good help in determining this. Provided it
is large enough, some of the moderately sized Gourami - Trichogaster
trichopterus, in any of its color morphs (blue, gold, "three-spot",
platinum....), Trichogaster microlepis (the "moonlight" Gourami),
perhaps paradise fish (Macropodus opercularis), other moderately sized
semi-aggressive fish would do nicely. Perhaps also giant Danios, or even
the smaller Danios - these are extremely resilient fish.>
And would it bother a ghost shrimp or snail?
<Likely would eat ghost shrimp, but at the low cost, might be worth
trying. Bite-sized snails will turn into snacks, but larger ones would
probably be safe.>
Just one more thing, should I buy a school of neon tetras or 3 guppies
(two female one male).
<To go in with the Redtail? Neither, IMO. If you must have one or the
other, the guppies would fare much better than the very delicate
Neons.>
Thanx for any info, Joey.
<Glad to be of service! Wishing you and your finny pals well, -Sabrina>
CO2 and SAEs
Hi.
<Hello.>
I set up a 75g plant tank last week. I have a pressurized CO2 system with a
controller (Pinpoint). I have the controller set for 6.9-6.8 ph and the KH is
4.0.
<Sounds good>
I picked up 5 true Siamese Algae Eating fish last Sunday. They have been doing
well until yesterday. They are staying close to the bottom and not really doing
much of anything. There color is ok and they don't seem to be breathing hard.
Based on what I read the CO2 level shouldn't be too high for them.
<Hmm.... I haven't heard of these fish having any sensitivity issues with CO2;
they are very, very widely used in planted aquaria that involve CO2 injection,
and regarded as one of the most efficient algae eaters for such tanks. Do
certainly check your CO2 and O2 levels, but I think it would be wise to look for
other issues, as well. Have you checked ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? Did you
quarantine the fish prior to adding them to the tank? Are the fish showing any
symptoms of illness?>
Please let me know if you have any opinion.
<Well, it could be possible that they're just settling into a new environment,
but certainly do be on the lookout for anything else amiss - test the above
levels, fix if necessary. If nothing is out of whack, you might try stopping
CO2 for just a couple of hours to see how they respond - though I really don't
expect that the CO2 is the cause of this (unless it's way off). If they were
not quarantined, I might suspect ich or some other parasite of the gills,
perhaps.>
Thank you. Ken
<Sure thing - hope this is just something simple! -Sabrina>
Help with finding SAE's (Siamese Algae Eater) - 2/16/03
hello bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I live in NY and am looking for the real sae. do you have any idea where I can
find & buy some ? thank you !
<no idea what the local shops inventory is around you <G> this week. But...
there are several incredible aquarium clubs in New York with tens of people that
surely can help. Do try the Brooklyn Aquarium Society (BAS) for regional advice
on an outlet. Kindly>
* note... query is in regards to this subject:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/saes.htm
Re: Otocinclus/false Siamese algae eater
hello: i read your articles about these fish. i have a 29 gal with three
Otocinclus and one false Siamese algae eater. will they be able to keep the
algae under control?
<Mmm, with otherwise good husbandry (careful feeding, regular water changes...)
should be able to in a planted aquarium. Bob Fenner.>
Re: Otocinclus/false Siamese algae eater
okay thanks. i do careful feeding, water changes...but only have few micro
sword.
<Please see here re algae control in freshwater systems:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked pages (at top, in blue) beyond. Bob Fenner>
Planted tank algae, big mis-id'ed "eater"
Quite a bit of string algae building up in one of my tanks and the outdoor
pots. The pH on these guys seems to always creep up as well.
<Related events.... the algae is rapidly photosynthesizing, using up alkaline
reserve, in the meanwhile poisoning/outcompeting its "higher" kin the vascular
plants. Neat eh?>
No string algae in the fireplace tank. The fireplace tank has a pH that is
constantly falling
<Use a little baking soda here>
and a large Siamese Algae eater.
<Large? This species doesn't get that large... are you sure you have the REAL
thing? Check here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/saesagb.htm
Thought you had a stinky Chinese Algae Eater? Time to trade that bad boy in>
Question: is the string algae related to the increasing pH?
<Yes>
Note I don't see the SAE eating it.
<It won't... likely a blue green, likely not a true SAE>
I have a bacterial product that is supposed to get rid of it called String Algae
Treatment, S.A.T., do you think it would help?
<Worth trying. Pls report back to me your results. Bob Fenner>
E. kalopterus longevity? (Lifespans of captive aquatics)
Hello Robert,
Sorry to bother you but I just read your article on SAE "Will the Real SAE
Please Swim Forward?" and I have a question that you might be able to answer.
I have a Flying Fox, E. Kalopterus, that I bought in -93 or -94 (not sure
which). That makes him 8 years or so. Do you know how old these fish can get?
<Know of ones near a decade... bet some of the Public Aquariums in Europe have
had Flying Foxes this long or longer...>
He is now about 14cm (5.5 inches) and he hasn't grown much in years as far as I
can tell.
Thanks for your time,
Steve Danielsson
Stockholm
<Thank you for your input. As I say, many Public Aquariums do keep, even post
longevity records on their stocks. You might want to try perusing some of their
sites (links on the WWM Links Page) for more here. Bob Fenner>
|
|
