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FAQs on Terrestrial/Freshwater Hermit Crabs
Systems
Related Articles: Terrestrial Hermit
Crabs, Freshwater Crustaceans, Invertebrates
for Freshwater Aquariums by Neale Monks,
Related FAQs: Terrestrial
Hermit Crabs 1, Terrestrial
Hermit Crabs 2, & FAQs on Terrestrial
Hermits: Terr. Hermit ID,
Terr. Hermit Behavior,
Terr. Hermit Compatibility,
Terr. Hermit Selection,
Terr. Hermit Feeding,
Terr. Hermit Disease,
Terr. Hermit Reproduction.
& FAQs on Marine/SW:
SW Hermit
ID, SW Hermit Behavior,
SW Hermit
Compatibility, SW Hermit Selection,
SW Hermit
Systems, SW Hermit Feeding,
SW Hermit Disease/Health, SW
Hermit
Reproduction,
&
FW Crustaceans 1, FW
Crustaceans 2,
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All so-called "freshwater" hermit crabs are actually amphibious, and as such,
unsuitable for use in an aquarium. The only truly non-marine, fully aquatic
hermit crab in the trade I'm aware of is Clibanarius tricolor, the blue-leg
hermit crab. It does very well in brackish water aquaria at SG 1.010+. It cannot
be adapted to freshwater. Cheers, Neale.
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Hermit crabs
11/10/08
Hi! My little sisters and I have pet hermit crabs. We put them in one tank.
There are no bugs in it, but for some reason when I looked in the tank today,
there was a web across one of the shells with little black dots in it. Is it
from the crabs? Do you know what it is?
<Greetings. It is possible I suppose that these webs are spider webs, or silk
webs spun by something else. In that case, they won't do any harm and can be
rinsed off with some clean water. But I'm a little more concerned that these
webs might be in fact fungal hyphae. Fungi will grow on anything that is
organic, warm, and damp. Hermit crabs need to be kept warm, as you know, since
they're tropical animals that quickly die if they are kept at room temperature.
But they also need a well ventilated environment. Usually these two things are
taken care of by putting a heating mat or stone in the vivarium (for warmth) and
then placing a lid on the tank (to keep the heat in) but the lid is left
slightly ajar so air can move through the tank (for ventilation). Hermit crabs
are quite difficult to maintain if you don't "tick all the right boxes", and I'd
encourage you to review their needs carefully. Once sick, there's little that
can be done for them. Many books have been written about pet Hermits, but in the
meantime, why not visit one of the several good web sites dedicated to their
care. I happen to like this one:
http://www.hermit-crabs.com/
Cheers, Neale>
Land Hermit Crabs and Softened Water? - 8/14/03
HI,
<howdy>
can I give my land hermit crabs water from my tap if we have a water
conditioning system that uses salt? Kara
<not recommended, my friend. The salt exchangers impart excess chloride that
has been demonstrated to be a problem with some animals. Please do bypass the
softener and/or keep a jug of spring water handy (not distilled... too pure).
Kindly, Anthony>
Re: (land) hermit crab
I'm not sure if land crabs are your area, but if so I would very much
appreciate a reply. I have had a land hermit crab for over a year
now. He's to all appearances happy and healthy, except he has lost
quite a bit of color. In fact, the last time he molted he was just
about translucent. He has a choice of many foods: Hikari
"Crab cuisine", Tetra/Terrafauna "hermit crab cakes",
Aquadyne mix of goldfish food and vegetables, and Hermit Haven hermit crab
food. He has a large water dish with sponges, shells, and Cholla
wood. He also gets salad or other veggies from my
meals. His water is distilled, and I change the shells when it
appears that the calcium has come off of them. Do you have any ideas as to what
could be happening to my crab? Thank you very much for your time.
~Melissa
<Hi Melissa, it sounds like you take excellent care of your hermit
crab. Varied diet, good water, clean living, the only thing that I
can think of that may be missing is sunlight. A full spectrum
daylight fluorescent bulb may help him/her out. My experience with
land hermits is limited, but it sounds like you are doing everything correctly,
I would try adding some daylight.>
Land hermit crabs
hi,
I brought 10 little land hermit crabs back from Mexico for my son for Christmas.
they are in a large Plexiglas tank with little stones and some awesome climbing
sticks. I have hermit food and a sponge that I keep quite wet. I mist them daily
and I have provided lots of shells. (they are changing them like crazy) two of
them are connected right now and they are making
"clicking noises" are they fighting? how do they mate? can you give me
any advice? when I took them, I vowed to keep them alive and I want
all the info I can get.
thanks, Julie Swann
<Hi Julie, I am not familiar with the actual mating ritual of the land hermit
crab. I would be willing to bet they are fighting, most likely over a
shell. While searching on google.com I stumbled upon the link below,
it appears to have a lot of information on land hermits
http://www4.tpg.com.au/users/vanessap/hermit/cs/cs_gender.html
Hope this helps, Gage>
Painting hermit crab shells 1/4/05
My kids want to paint their Hermit's next shell. What kind of paint should
we use? thanks
<use non-toxic "baby-safe" acrylic paint like you'd find at Home Depot for
painting children's furniture... or better still, perhaps find smaller portions
and more colors at the craft/fabric stores. If it says "baby safe" then you are
in business :) Anthony>
GOT CRABS?
We recently got a hermit crab from Texas and we do not know what it eats and
where we should have it
Tara Brooks
< Go to ZooMed.com and get their new book on hermit crabs. They even have a
couple of hermit crab kits with everything you need including a beginners book
to get you started. In the meantime, hermit crabs are tropical and require a
heating device to keep their terrarium between 78 and 83 degrees. The Zoomed
ReptiTherm UTH works well as a heating device. They do require a relative
humidity of 70%+, so a water dish with a sponge in it is really needed. For
lighting the daylight blue and nighttime red bulbs really show them off. Hermit
crabs are very active at night and the red bulb allows you to observe the crabs
without really frightening them. The bottom of the terrarium should have some
clean fine sand and a branch or two for them to crawl on. They do best on a
commercial hermit crab food. The big problem with these crabs is that they dry
out and need to be misted often. -Chuck>
Hermit Crab Substrate
I could not find anything on your web site but I would like to ask you a question. Is used fish tank gravel OK to put in my hermit crab cage with half sand and
half used fish tank gravel?
< As long as the materials are well washed then there shouldn't be a problem.-Chuck>
Hermit Crabs
I have a question about taking good care of my salt water hermit crabs. I
have a picture of them to help you out. I got them in Florida about three
weeks ago and they have done just fine, they have tried out new shells and
got back in there old ones then back in the new ones. Right now I am feeding
them dog food cut into little pieces. Can you also tell what to feed them?
< There are commercial hermit crab foods available at pet shops that sell hermit
crabs.>
There water has been changed like every other day and is supplied with
oxygen. There sand cleaned out too. I forgot to mention that I have three of
them. They are not being kept in an aquarium because I don't have the money
or room for that and it's not medal anywhere. The crabs are in saltwater and
the water is almost room temperature. So tell me what else needs to be done
in order for them to have a happy life and environment?
< Don't let the humidity get too low or too cool. A cool dry environment is just
the opposite of what they need and they will not last too long unless the are
kept warm and humid.-Chuck>
Transporting a hermit crab 7/10/05
My 7 year old daughter who is currently in Wyoming visiting her dad has
purchased a hermit crab. I am in Idaho and the plan was to drive to Rock
Springs
Wyoming to pick her up and then on to Bismark, North Dakota for a 3 day family
reunion. At that point we would all return to Caldwell, Idaho where we live.
Is it possible to transport this crab with us the entire way?
<Yes, certainly>
If so, what do
I need to do to guarantee its safe and healthy arrival?
<Keep it and its food, gravel in its container... along with a damp sponge (for
moisture, humidity), and set all this down on the floor, level, in the shade.
Bob Fenner>
Never Too Young To Get Crabs! - 08/20/2005
I'm twelve years old and recently went to the beach.
<Let me first open with a couple of statements.... I am TREMENDOUSLY impressed,
and pleased, with your grasp of basic grammar and spelling. Let this be a
lesson to all those older, more experienced folks out there - make proper
sentences, use proper punctuation and capitalization. Nicole, we truly
appreciate this! Thank you! (Hey Bob, I got the "truly" right!)> <<Heeeee!
RMF>>
I found a shop that sold land hermit crabs, (they seemed happy and well-treated)
and they sold some really tiny carrying cages. The lids are plastic, with slits.
Mine is probably one gallon, and I have two crabs.
<This is quite a bit too small for land hermits.... though it will serve as an
adequate temporary home, if you can keep the humidity very high.>
They have purple claws, though I'm not sure what the type is.
<Many possibilities. All have the same or similar care requirements, and all
make excellent pets. You will enjoy caring for these guys, I'm sure!>
They seem to get along well, I have:
Sand made of calcium, completely edible
Hermie Food
Water dish, two inches deep but has stones below (No possible drowning, sand
inside means they go in)
Climbing surface
Fake plant
<I would strongly recommend that you look into a larger enclosure (10 gallon
tank, if possible) with a lid that covers the tank quite well, to retain
humidity. Another requirement, eventually, will be a container of saltwater -
contrary to some literature, ALL land hermits available for sale in the US do,
in fact, come from marine environments and do require saltwater in addition to
freshwater. I'll give you some links to some good resources at the end of this
message.>
Okay. I don't have a spritzer, but I live in Austin and it's pretty humid, plus
I bathe them every day.
<I strongly urge you not to bathe them daily - or at all, for that fact. Once
they're in a larger space, make one of their water pools deep enough that they
can go completely underwater if they desire - they'll keep themselves
clean. They do not have people bathing them daily in the wild.... This can
actually cause them harm in the long run, mostly stress-related, I fear.>
Do they definitely need a spritzer?
<Unless you're dripping condensation off the end of your nose right now, you'll
need to get that humidity up. Covering the lid with some plastic wrap (leave
enough uncovered for air exchange) will help, and "misting" their container
daily will help, as well.>>
I also don't have a humidifier or thermometer, but our house is always on 78 or
80.
<This temp. is fine.>
And can you use a spritzer from a body spray if it is empty, soaked, and
dishwashed?
<I would not.... You can probably get a cheap spritzer in the plant section in
your local discount store, or maybe even a grocer's or drugstore.>
They are a big hot pink shelled one (Sebastian) and a small pale
pink shelled one (Ariel).
<Make sure to offer them more shells of varying sizes.>
Sebastian is always willing to walk on my hands, and never pinches. He is
especially active after bath. Ariel I can see walking but if I am loud she
hides, and I cannot hold her, because she always retreats. She does flip over
and walk around in bath, though. Anyway, they are always together, and seem to
cooperate. But, today at about 9:30 tonight, they were away in their shells
hiding (usual during the day) but one of Sebastian's left legs was lying on the
sand.
<Possible result of stress.... This may be no problem at all, as the leg will
re-grow - but do please let him have some time to rest.>
I removed it, and held him and he still seemed fine, although he was a little
off balance. I bathed them and they were fine.
<Again, this may be a major source of stress for them.... let them keep
themselves clean, it is better for them.>
Now, the two are together, not fighting, just away in their shells. What should
I do? Sorry that I have so many questions! Oh, and tonight I'm going to separate
them. Please respond as soon as possible!
<Mostly, I would recommend, as above, try to get a larger enclosure for them,
provide fresh and saltwater, get that humidity up (pronto! very important!),
and let them chill out a bit to recover from the great ordeal of moving into a
new (and obviously loving) home. Try the following for more information:
http://www.hermitcrabassociation.com , and
http://www.hermit-crabs.com . Wishing you, Sebastian, and Ariel
well, -Sabrina>
Hermit Crab, Change of Clothes - Good Land Hermit Owner/Information! - 10/15/2005
Hi,
<Hello.>
I recently got a small hermit crab as a birthday present. Well, truth be told, his shell is really small, but Gerald himself is actually quite a bit bigger than his shell should be.
<This is actually not uncommon with newly purchased hermits.... Hopefully in your care he will find something larger/more suitable.>
So, after reading in several places that they need to switch shells, I've offered him a variety of new shells in different sizes, with different openings, painted, and natural.
<Painted shells are extremely rarely accepted, unless there is nothing of the right shape/size otherwise. Just a heads-up.>
From what I've read, hermit crabs seem to change shells whenever they come upon a new one,
<Mm, not that often - not by a long shot.>
but this little guy just wont leave the one he has. I'm a little worried, because I've read that if they
don't change into a shell large enough it could be really harmful for them, and I'm not quite sure what I can do to help the situation.
<A bit of information regarding this - there are a number of different species of hermit crabs.... all of genus Coenobita. Of those most commonly offered for sale in the US, a couple of them (C. compressus and C. rugosus) are a touch more hesitant to switch shells than others. C. compressus will hold out a very long time before changing shells, if there is nothing that they really like around.
The only shells that my own C. compressus will use are Natica/"moon snail" shells.... some are called "shark's eye" or "whale's eye" shells. I would urge you to try to find out what species your hermit is, and if you believe him to be C. compressus, try to seek out these moon snail shells. C. rugosus will take moon snail shells sometimes, as well. Other hermits will usually take readily to Turbo snail shells.>
Also, I was wondering if his present living situation is as it should be. He is in a 1.5-2 gallon plastic aquarium,
<Mm, I would increase this to a 10-gallon tank, minimum.... especially if it is a C. compressus, which is a very active animal.>
with Calci-sand, fake plants, dishes,
<A comment here, regarding water/water dishes - contrary to what some might say, all hermits are at least *somewhat* marine in nature (some
more so than others) and require saltwater in addition to freshwater. I would urge you to use a quality synthetic sea salt like Instant Ocean for making up saltwater.... you can store a container of it and use as necessary.>
a sponge, and a coconut to hide under. I've been keeping the temperature between 70-75 degrees and humidity between 70-80%. I was wondering what % of humidity is too high, and what will happen if it does get
high?
<Actually, the humidity is fine where you've got it. If it gets too high occasionally, it should not be a major problem. Just don't let it drop below 70% for an extended period of time, lest he suffocate from his gills drying up.>
Thanks! Kat
<One last comment - hermit crabs are quite social animals. I really urge you to move up to a larger container and provide a couple of friends
(preferably of the same species, but that's not terribly important). Also, as far as foods and feeding, be sure to include some foods high in iodine and calcium content - you can use a calcium supplement manufactured for reptiles to add to their food. Thawed frozen human-consumption shrimp tails with the shells still on are an excellent food high in iodine. Wishing you and your new pal well, -Sabrina>
Hermit terr. crabs FAQ... NNS 4/10/06
hi , i lives in Singapore and i have a few question that i cant find on
the internet and sincerely hope you could help me with this
i would like to know that could it due to my country temperature ( its about
20+ degree Celsius) that make my hermit crabs (species : Coenobita rugosus)
inactive ?
<Possibly, yes>
when i buy them , i was given a tank with the sand lesser than 1cm in height
, could it due to this that's why my hermit crab does not moult ? do i need
to buy additional sand to add on to it?
<Shouldn't be the sand depth. Likely nutrition, moisture/humidity>
i wanted to put some of the dried leaves that i find along the road inside
the fish thank but if the leavers is poisonous to human , would it kill my
crab too ?
<Too likely, yes. There are some "aquarium safe" terrestrial leaves one can
use though>
and erm i tried extremely hard but i couldn't find out the maximum size a
Coenobita rugosus could grow up to , and to my knowledge , there are
different type of shells in terms of their design , so will they switch home
even if the shell design isn't what they use normally ?
<Yes>
lastly , i may emailed to the wrong address , sorry if i did =( but please
reply if u can help me =)
your sincerely,
jimmy =)
<Please see here re size: 67 g.:
http://www.crabstreetjournal.info/species/Crugosus/index.html
Bob Fenner>
My pet Hermit crab 1/10/07
Hi I am Lauren
<Hi Lauren!>
and I have recently taken in a saltwater hermit crab as my pet on holidays...
<How is he only a pet on holidays? Is he in a reef tank, salt water tank...
what?>
we went on 2 different websites when we got home from our holiday which was a
day after we took the hermit crab in it said to supply shells for them so we put
in one which was not for the hermit crab to change in to but for it to get to
land ..then the next day my dad told me he moved in to it but the problem is it
is to big for it and he struggles to carry it.. now what should we do we wonder
and hope you can tell us...Thank you
<He will not move into anything he cannot handle. It may have a problem with
mobility but will grow into it. No worries here. Jen S><<RMF suggests
providing more shells... for this Hermits choosing>>
Freshwater hermit crabs 4/22/07
I can't seem to find much info on freshwater hermits. I know they do exist, but
how would I go about finding some? Will they live in an African Cichlid tank?
<All so-called "freshwater" hermit crabs are actually amphibious, and as such,
unsuitable for use in an aquarium. The only truly non-marine, fully aquatic
hermit crab in the trade I'm aware of is Clibanarius tricolor, the blue-leg
hermit crab. It does very well in brackish water aquaria at SG 1.010+. It cannot
be adapted to freshwater. Cheers, Neale.>
Hermit crab & Sand 7/25/07
Hi My name is CJ, I am 12 and have my first hermit crabs (3). Is it okay to
use regular beach sand for them to crawl on or do I need a special type of sand?
Also is it okay to have different types of hermit crabs living together.
For example I have a large strawberry living with 2 regular pet store hermit
crabs. I am not sure what type they are, but they are night bright red like my
strawberry, more of brownish/grey color. Presently I have them living on
aquarium gravel and marbles.
Thanks,
CJ
<Hello CJ. When keeping hermit crabs, the optimal sand is calcium carbonate
enriched sand, sold for crabs as well as reptiles. Crabs use the calcium
carbonate as a dietary supplement for their skeleton. You can buy this stuff
from any pet store. Some crab-keepers like to mix sand with coconut fibre
("coir") at a 50/50 ratio. The point to the coconut fibre is it stores moisture,
which is essential for the hermit crabs. The crabs need the humidity in the air
for their "lungs" to work properly, and when they feel the need, they will dig
into the sand/fibre mixture to cool down or sleep. So, much happier crabs!
Coconut fibre can be purchased in big blocks for a couple of dollars and after
soaking in water you end up with gallons of the stuff. It doesn't change the pH
of the substrate (unlike peat or soil) which is a major plus, and being so cheap
you can easily change it every couple of months or whenever it starts to get
dirty. Being nice and dark it also highlights the colours of the crabs, and you
get a much more natural looking environment than just using plain sand or God
forbid one of those hideous coloured gravels. Cheers, Neale>
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Terrestrial Hermit Crab Habitat: How much weight in a terrarium? Sys. 11/8/07
Hey all,
<Hello,>
First to say, love the site, I keep up with it on a regular basis to make sure
that my fish are well taken care of. You guys do a marvelous job!
<Thanks.>
Next, explaining a bit about my actual question, lol. I recently decided to get
into terrestrial hermit crab keeping since I work in a biology lab at my college
and they keep one or two little crabs... They're so fun and cute, I started
looking into what it takes to keep some of my own.
<Ah, yes, they are nice pets. Crustaceans generally make very entertaining pets
but they do have specific needs. In the case of a hermit crab, it needs warmth
from under the vivarium, a certain amount of humidity, water for bathing in, a
varied (mostly plant-based) diet, and (often overlooked) the company of at least
two other hermit crabs. The "bath" is one tricky aspect: different species need
freshwater, brackish water or salt water baths. Make sure you identify the crabs
on sale, and clear this aspect up before purchase. To be fair, the standard
species is Coenobita clypeatus and that one is fine with freshwater; but oddball
species are also sold, and may be particularly attractive because of their
unusual colours and shapes.>
For starters, I do have an empty terrarium, which is why I was looking for a new
sort of pet to keep, it has ventilation holes with small screen covers, so there
is no converting it to a fish tank of any sort, it was meant to be strictly a
terrarium. (Originally it was bought to house some Jackson Chameleons, which was
many, many years ago and they've hence passed on, unfortunately.) It's made by
Oceanic and seems to have fairly thick glass, thicker than my ten gallon at
least (roughly twice as much), from what I can tell from general observations.
It's also fairly large, roughly three feet by two and another two and a half
tall.
<Sounds ideal.>
Now, onto asking the question. I want to make sure the crabs would have plenty
of digging/molting depth, so I was looking at how much sand I'd have to put into
this thing... And a site was brilliant enough to bring up the point that some
terrariums really aren't meant to handle heavy loads. So I was wondering if it
was actually safe to put as much sand as I'd need into it and not risk the tank.
Now there's a few things I was thinking of doing... For the record, this
terrarium currently sits on a pretty sturdy metal frame work that it came with,
but there is no underneath/middle support, it's strictly the frame work that it
rests on (I'm not sure how crucial that is, so thought I'd mention it).
<You actually don't need masses of sand, and in fact a mix of sand and coconut
fibre (available in reptile shops) is the ideal. In the wild they burrow into
leaf litter, and this mix replicates this perfectly. The coconut fibre holds
moisture well, which is critical to hermit crab health in the long term. Anyway,
the mix of fibre with a bit of sand for stability will add very little to the
weight of the vivarium.>
Now, I can take the tank off the current stand and sit it on the floor (it's
tall enough that viewing is still fine like this), so that I don't have to worry
much about the weight at all, but I have tile floors and I'm a little worried
about the tile lowering the overall temperature of the tank. I could also buy
some scrap carpet or material to sit it on so that it won't be directly on the
cool tile, if that would make a difference.
<The ideal here would be to place polystyrene tiles on the table, put the
heating mat on that, and then the vivarium on top. The heating mat should have
instructions about this. The loss of heat by conduction through the base of a
vivarium is pretty trivial compared with, for example, warm air rising out the
top of the tank.>
I can also buy a piece of plywood or something and use it as a brace for the
bottom of the tank, placing it between the framework and the bottom of the
terrarium, but I'm not entirely sure what exactly to use or how well that would
work.
<Sounds overkill to me.>
I could also leave the tank where it is and trust it's sturdy enough to handle
the weight of the sand... I'm fairly certain a tank this size was meant to
handle fairly heavy reptiles and it's possible I'm worrying over this for no
reason whatsoever, but I thought, better safe than sorry, and I should ask some
people that might know more about how much weight a terrarium could take. :)
<Should be fine. Test it out before adding the animals, and if all seems well,
press on!>
Alright, think that was all I needed to pester you with. Thank you soooo much
for your time and consideration! It's extremely appreciated.
~Caitie
<Hope this helps, Neale>
Re: Terrestrial Hermit Crab
Habitat: How much weight in a terrarium? 11/8/07
Thanks for the response, I'll pick up some coconut fiber substrate tomorrow
to mix in with the sand. That should take some of the weight out of it, I think,
not a lot, but still... I was just worried because I know they need a lot of
burrowing room so that they'll molt properly, and I do intend to have some
jumbos at some point, either from the littles I'll get growing up or just
starting with some jumbos. Everything I've read thus far suggests having at
least double the crab's height in sand. So yes, I was a little worried that much
sand would be fairly heavy.
<Mix the sand in with the coconut fibre, with the coconut fibre being 90% by
volume. The sand is really there just for stability, though they may also use
sand during moulting (crustaceans have structures called statocysts into which
grains are sand are placed during moulting; these act as balance organs).>
The only thing I have a further question on is the heating pad for underneath
the terrarium, wouldn't that be just fine attached to the bottom of the tank,
since I'll just leave the tank where it is on the metal framework? (i.e., there
would be nothing underneath the heating pad, it would just stick to the exposed
bottom.)
<Sounds fine. But do check with the specific heater: all are different, and the
manufacturer will state best practise for that particular model.>
And do I really need an under tank heater if the overall temperature stays
around 80?
<If you live in Caribbean where these crabs come from, or somewhere else in the
tropics, then no, you don't need a heater. But if you live in the continental
United States or Europe, then yes, a heater is important. The danger with
keeping tropical animals at room temperature is that we don't appreciate the
variations across the year. Even in, say, California or Italy, the summertime
temperatures might be fine, but in winter once the air temperature drops below
25 C//77 F the poor crabs become stressed. They are adapted to warm, humid
conditions. Under tank heaters don't cost very much and cost very little to run.
If your home is warm most of the year, then the heater will be off much of the
time anyway. But it'll be there as a back-up for when it *does* get cold,
producing warmth and humidity, and keeping your crab cozy and active. After all,
these crabs are fun when they're scooting about climbing stuff and checking out
shells. They are incredibly boring when they are cold, morose, lethargic or
sick.>
That way the top of the sand would be warm and the under sand would be cool,
like in nature? (Least it is if I'm remembering my last trip to the beach
correctly, lol.)
<In the wild, the soil is actually a "buffer" used to escape extremes in
temperature. When it gets too hot (e.g., at midday) these crabs will burrow into
the cooler, moist sand. But at other times, for example during storms or cold
snaps, the sand will be a relatively warm and dry place they can wait out the
bad times. Your job is to provide something as close as possible to the tropics:
warm humid air, substrate for digging into, water for bathing, and a glass lid
over the tank to keep the humidity inside the vivarium.>
Again, thanks for your input. :)
<Good luck, Neale.>
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