FAQs about Small Marine System
Livestocking 15
Related Articles:
Small Marine System Livestocking
by Bob Fenner, Small Marine Systems,
Tom Walsh's Small
Reefs, Large Marine
Systems, Fish-Only Marine
Set-up, FOWLR/Fish and
Invertebrate Systems, Reef
Systems, Coldwater Systems,
Plumbing Marine
Systems, Refugiums, Marine
Biotope, Marine
Landscaping, Fishwatcher's
Guides,
Related FAQs: Small Marine System Livestocking 1,
Small Marine System Stocking 2,
Small Marine Stocking 3,
Small Marine Stocking 4, Small Marine Stocking 5, Small Marine Stocking 6, Small Marine Stocking 7, Small Marine Stocking 8, Small Marine Stocking 9, Small Marine Stocking 10, Small Marine Stocking 11, Small Marine Stocking 12, Small Marine
Stocking 13, Small Marine Stocking 14,
Small Marine Stocking
16, Small Marine Stocking 17,
Small Marine
Stocking 18,
& Cnidarians for Small Systems by Bob
Fenner, Small Scorpionfishes:
Lionfishes and More for Small Systems by Bob Fenner, Blennies, -oids for Small Systems by Bob
Fenner,
Damsels, Clownfishes for Small
Systems by Bob Fenner, Dwarf Dwarf
Angels of the Genus Centropyge by Bob Fenner, Jawfishes Suitable for Small Marine
Systems by Bob Fenner, Little
Basses for Small Systems by Bob Fenner,
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Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1:
Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2:
Fishes
New
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eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 3:
Systems
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eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
30 gallon fowlr stocking 1/25/12
Hi,
<Rudy>
I have a 30 gallon cube FOWLR that has about 15 pounds of live rock and
has been running almost two months now.
<Ok>
I also have a powerhead for circulation, a reef octopus bh 100 hang on
back skimmer and a HOT magnum power filter (also hang on back) for
mechanical filtration.
Do I need to run carbon in the magnum filter?
<I would... but only change out monthly or so. Read here re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cratuse.htm
and the linked files above>
So far I just rinse the filter media weekly. I will start
making 5 gallon water changes monthly now that the cycle is
completed.
<Good>
I have already added a turbo snail, two small hermit crabs, an emerald
crab, and a peppermint shrimp (but I never see the shrimp).
<Might have been eaten by the Mithrax/Mithraculus/Emerald Crab...
see WWM re this genus>
I added a blue damsel last week and want to pass my stocking list by
you.
I would like to add:
1 Clown
1 Chromis
1 Cardinal
1 Goby (either clown or neon blue)
For a total of 5 fish including the damsel.
Will this work? Would a blenny be compatible?
<Should work, and will depend on the species of blenny>
Could I add an additional shrimp?
<I wouldn't... would remove the crab>
Is there any type that is more active in the day and won't
hide all the time?
<Mmm, depends on the rest of the livestock... there are some
Hippolytids worth considering.... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hipshrpsel.htm
and the...>
Do you have any suggestions on the order of introduction and how long I
would wait between additions?
<Yes... the Goby and Cardinal first... Clown last>
Also, is it OK to add 1-2 small pieces of additional live rock at a
time?
<Better to cure ahead of time, isolate for a few weeks. Please see
WWM re>
Thanks
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
acceptable temporary bio-load? Adding mated Clowns
temporarily to a small, fish-populated system
1/20/12
Hello,
<Denyse>
I am mostly new to SW aquariums, and I have the following:
30G high tank, established, with a 2.5" coral
beauty,
<Will need more room than this>
2.0" hippo tang,
<And a much larger volume for this Paracanthurus>
and a 1.5" jester Goby. Parameters are 0 nitrites and
ammonia, and estimated 5 ppm nitrates. I also am in process of
cycling a 90G tank,
<Ah, good>
and ammonia is down from .75 to .25, but no sign of nitrites yet, and
nitrates are not that high.
<Still cycling... can take some times months...>
I plan on putting my tang in the 90G when it is ready. Here is my
question: I can purchase a mated pair of 4" black saddleback
clowns for $70. Can I temporarily put them along with the others
in my 30G until my 90G is ready and cycled??
<Mmmm, I would not... Too likely to be territorial issues, perhaps
prompt biological disease from stress here. Mated clowns can be very
aggressive toward other fishes, esp. in small confines. The possibility
of dividing the tank, floating the other fishes in a plastic colander
or such is also contraindicated... too stressful>
I know it is a heavy load, impossible for full grown fish, but I
am only thinking I need 6-8 weeks or so...my 30 G has about 15# of LR,
and a Penguin 170 HOB filter. Regular water changes, about
10% /week, or as needed to keep nitrates below 20 ppm.
<Mmm, best to see if they'll hold onto these clowns for you, or
ask someone else (perhaps a local fish store) if they
will>
Would appreciate any feedback, and pre-emptive apologies if this is one
of those "dumb" questions.
<Not dumb at all. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Firefish goby dies over night -- 12/29/11
Hey crew,
<Adam>
First off awesome site and very useful. I looked trough the index and
found a couple possible answers to my question of why my new
Firefish goby
<Singular? Are social species; given to easy
stressing>
died overnight. I recently bought him and dripped the fish for almost 3
hours also putting the heater in to make sure water temp matched after
such a long period of still water. The goby appeared fine and was
put in with a red coral banded shrimp
<Predaceous>
( who I've since removed for picking on the goby- I know mistake).
He seemed a lot happier after that and started moving about more but
was still timid.
<As Microdesmids are>
To give you the whole picture I have had this 30gal
tank for a little more then 6 months. I started with a cleaner shrimp
then added two Clarkii clowns. I also have 4 blue
hermits, 1 emerald crab and 4 turbo snails. And lastly a LTA
anemone.
<Too likely to have problems... anomalous deaths, consumption by
this Anemone in such a small volume>
Everyone lived great together. The cleaner shrimp died last week and I
found him under the filter so I'm assuming he got caught while
trying to molt and that was the end. I have about 20 pounds if not a
little more of live rock. I plan on adding more.
<I wouldn't. Better to have more water volume, space>
The goby was introduced about 6 days ago and again seemed to do fine
the clown fish loved him and they slept next to each other side to side
at times. Since I removed the red banded coral shrimp 3 days later like
I said, he seemed to be great. Yesterday I added a new cleaner and a
small dwarf angel my last additions.
<... this system is too small for a Centropyge Angel and the
Clowns>
The angel took territory over on the right side of the tank and goby
left side. They didn't bother each other and the goby actually
became more active by the time I fell asleep. I thought " wow the
angel cheered him up!" I had the lights off for a good 5 then my
timer turned on the light. I woke up to a dead goby who is now on the
opposite side if the tank?
<In a word, the cause here: "stress">
After I tried moving some things to see if he was alive I saw him
restless on the bottom moving with the current. He wasn't breathing
and I notices his color went from awesome last night to being very dark
in the middle and one side had a huge protruding bubble on one
side.
What could have happened over night?
<Damage... from the other fish/es or trauma from dashing into the
rock, side>
I checked my levels at the LFS ( ran out of tabs) and water was
perfect.
Salinity was a tad high but the gobies water when introduced was of
similar quality. Any ideas?
<See above>
I noticed since my anemone likes to hang up on the glass between a
heater and a corner ( is this okay by the way?)
<No; too likely to get burned>
I turned down the heaters out put so it didn't fry my anemone.
Could the slightly colder side of the tank have been the reason?
<Perhaps another source of stress, but not by itself>
I have another heater on the other side that was set only 5 degrees
higher then the others.
Just want clarification on why this beautiful goby died on me so
quick.
Thanks guys,
Adam Hirschberg
<Best to review, look into what is posted on WWM re all the species
you currently house here, AND anything you intend to add. Bob
Fenner>
New stocking list, sm. reef 11/30/11
Hello
<Hi there>
Recently I moved my 3 year old reef tank. I had to give away all of my
fish so now I'm ready to restock. As of now, I am planning to get a
starry blenny, a mccosker's flasher wrasse,
<Just a single individual? This is a social species... won't be
as colorful or... oh, I see your system is actually too small>
an Ocellaris clownfish, and a fathead Anthias.
<A fave>
The tank is a 40 gallon breeder with a few types of mushrooms and
Zoanthids. I also have a sump with various algaes and media for
filtration. My water quality has always been fine.
My concern and question is if the fish I plan to get will do well in
this tank?
<Mmm, not this wrasse by itself likely, and again there's not
enough room for a small harem>
I'm especially concerned about the Anthias and the wrasse.
Would all of these fish be compatible? Also, do you perhaps have a
suggestion for a 5th fish or would that be too many?
<Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/StkgSmSWsysArt.htm
and the linked FAQs files above>
Thanks for your time, and sorry for any grammar issues, I'm a
chemistry major not an English teacher lol.
<I taught H.S. sciences, including Chemistry... Correct English is
requisite for getting along in the professional world... Learn it
outright or (do as I do/did) and utilize spelling and grammar checkers.
Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: New stocking list 11/30/11
Hello again,
<Krista>
I had a feeling the wrasse might be a bad idea. In that case, I'm
just contemplating a fish or two that is peaceful enough for the
Anthias. If I'm not mistaken, the Anthias is very shy or am I
wrong?
<No; not wrong. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/serranocirrhitus.htm
and the linked FAQs file re the species (above)>
Before I had moved my tank, I had a cherub angelfish. It was very
aggressive and I'm worried about getting any sort of angel for that
reason and their coral eating habits. Unless you think otherwise,
I'll avoid them and maybe try for a cardinal and/or a Basslet.
<Good choices, though the Basslet may not go w/ the Gramma>
Perhaps a goby would be better than the Basslet for the Anthias?
<Sigh... please read where you were referred to... B>
Would the goby be ok with the blenny? Also, I've noticed my
friend never could keep a cardinal alive longer than a week. Should I
skip the cardinal for something else?
Clownfish/Host Separation
11/25/11
Hello. I have a question regarding my Ocellaris clownfish and long
tentacled anemone. My anemone has been hosting my clown for 2-3 months
now, but I have come to the sad realization that it will soon outgrow
my tank. I need to remove it soon. Maybe this is a dumb question
because I can't find much about it on WWM or the Internet in
general, but, how is my clownfish likely to react when I remove his
home?
<Mmm, there's a large range of variability here. Most
tank-bred/raised clowns don't have a reaction at all, whereas
wild/collected specimens often show behavior of "separation
anxiety">
I have heard stories about clownfish becoming very aggressive/depressed
after losing their host.
<This is so at times>
I plan on providing a wide array of possible non-anemone hosts such as
Frogspawn for my clownfish to try out. Would it be best to put these
corals in the tank before removing the anemone?
<No; trouble likely... allelopathy>
What can I do to make this transition the easiest and least stressful
for my fish?
<Cold turkey really>
By the way, in case it matters, he is the only fish in my Biocube 29
currently. I plan on adding 3-4 more fish, but I can hold off on this
if it would help my clownfish to get settled again.
<I would... this volume is too small... too likely
compatibility/territorial issues w/ adding more fish/es here>
Any tips, advice, or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
very much.
<Do put your concerns in the search tool on WWM and read at your
leisure.
Many people have/had the same sorts of circumstances. Bob
Fenner>
Re: re: Clownfish/Host Separation
11/27/11
Thank you for your response, but I am kind of confused about one of
your last comments. Were you suggesting to wait a certain period of
time before adding more fish or were you saying to just not add any
more fish?
<The latter... "I would hold off">
I really want a couple more fish, but I would be fine holding off for
some time until my clownfish settles down. Please clarify. Thank
you.
<This species (Ocellaris) of Amphiprionine is easier going than most
all... but this volume is small... better to have a plan... add it
toward last (the less-territorial fish/species first). BobF>
30 gallon cube fowlr setup
11/2/11
Hi, I am setting up an oceanic 30 gallon cube saltwater tank and
need some advice.
<Ok>
Here is what I have:
30 gallon oceanic cube tank with oceanic stand and oceanic glass
lid Jebo 829 canister filter
9 watt Coralife uv sterilizer
Hydor Koralia Evolution Circulation Pump/Powerhead 550 gph 100
watt heater
Marineland ML Double Bright LED Light, 18-24 inches
Sand for the bottom (used to be live sand, but has been in my
garage in a dry bucket for a year)
The tanks stand is too narrow inside for a refugium or sump.
I have a sea clone protein skimmer but I am not planning on using
it since there is no sump and I don't want it hanging on the
tank.
<Better than nothing...>
I want my tank to look sort of like this:
<The first pic?>
And not so much like this:
<The second I take it>
So I am only planning on getting about 10-15 lbs of live rock and
not 30 lbs of live rock.
<Okay>
This is also going in a small bedroom, so noise is a major factor
- it must be quiet.
I was planning on drilling holes for an overflow and installing
something like this:
<The overflow box...>
But it seems the water draining would be noisy and there is
limited space under the stand for a sump. Also this is a FOWLR
not a reef tank.
<So?>
I have an opportunity to get a phosphate reactor, but I thought
it would do the same thing as the uv sterilizer,
<Uh, no>
so I am not getting it. What do you think?
<You'd do well to do a bit more reading; investigating; at
least on WWM if not a recent "marine aquarium
handbook">
I will use RO water from LFS to fill the tank and for all water
changes.
I am planning on changing 5 gallons of water every two weeks and
cleaning the canister filter at the same time.
Here are my questions:
Should I add a phosphate reactor to this setup?
<I wouldn't. Not likely useful and have potential
downsides>
The uv sterilizer will be on the output side of the canister
filter, will the canister filter be able to return water to tank
with this added resistance?
<Very likely so; yes>
Should I use all the media that came with the canister filter?
(It has about five boxes, two filled with ceramic rings, one with
bio balls, and two empty
- I will use carbon on one and just a filter pad on the
other.)
<As much as there is space for; yes>
I plan on keeping about 8 fish. A clown fish with an anemone,
blemey, shrimp, and a few other fish.
<Not likely room for this many here>
Do I need a "cleaning crew"? does this mean snails
only?
<You don't. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm
and the linked files above>
I also have a HOT Magnum HOB filter, but will only use it to
polish the water after water changes.
My goal is to have a clean looking tank that is quite.
<quiet>
Any comments/recommendations on any of the above?
<Nothing more really. Need to see more of your stocking
list...>
Thanks,
Rudy
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
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Re: 30 gallon cube fowlr setup
11/2/11
Stocking list:
1 - ocellaris clown
1 - fridmani
1 - six-line wrasse
<Mmm, no; too mean... and this volume is too small>
1 - royal gamma
<Not w/ the Pseudochromid; no>
1 - cleaner shrimp
1 - anemone
<Not likely to live here... see WWM re Actinarians,
systems>
Any recommendations/comments?
<Keep reading. BobF>
Re: 30 gallon cube FOWLR setup. Stkg./sel.
11/2/11
OK, thanks for all the feedback.
<Welcome>
Which of the following would do well with the Ocellaris clown and
the fridmani?
And how many of these fish can I put in the 30 gallon tank?
golden head goby
<Not really... not enough floor/space>
blenny
<Depends on species>
Bicolor Dottyback
Royal Gamma Basslet
<One or the other of the above...>
Bicolor chromis
Blue/Green Reef Chromis
<No damsels here>
Clown Goby, Green
<See WWM re Gobiodon requirements>
Yellow Stripe Clingfish
<Nah>
Catalina Goby
<Cold water...>
Yellow Prawn Goby
Firefish, Helfrichi
Firefish, Purple
Swales Swissguard Basslet
<See above... the Dottybacks won't really go w/ Basslets,
Grammas or Dartfishes here... Just one piece/individual of one
species>
Tanaka's Pygmy Wrasse
Coral Beauty Angelfish
<No>
Orchid Dottyback
Yellowtail Damselfish
<See above and WWM... B>
Re: 30 gallon cube FOWLR setup
11/2/11
Can I put a micro brittle star fish in my 30 gallon FOWLR
tank?
<Likely so>
I am planning on a Ocellaris clown and fridmani. Haven't
decided on anything else yet.
Also thinking about a cleaner shrimp.
Thanks
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/SmSWStkF14.htm
and the linked files above. B>
Re: 30 gallon cube fowlr setup... more
mis-stkg. 11/4/11
Hi, I am setting up a 30 gallon cube fowlr aquarium and want to
pass by my stocking list.
1 - Ocellaris clown
1 - Fridmani
2 - Firefish, Purple
<... no... See our prev. emails, WWM re the two above.
B>
1 - Serpent Star Fish
1 - cleaner shrimp
What do you think?
Thanks,
Rudy
Re: 30 gallon cube fowlr setup
11/4/11
What fish would you suggest that get along with the clown and the
fridmani?
<... keep reading.>
Re: 30 gallon cube fowlr
setup 11/4/11
OK, I think from my reading I can stock this in my 30 gallon cube
fowlr:
1- Ocellaris clown
4-5 chromis (if too many, what is the max number I can have?)
<Nope>
1- cleaner shrimp
1 - Serpent Star Fish
If this is good, what is the order I should introduce them to the
tank?
I am assuming all the chromis will go in at the same time?
I am learning lots, Thanks
Re: 30 gallon cube fowlr setup
11/7/11
Stocking list:
1- ocellaris clown
5-6 chromis
<No. Don't write us w/o searching first. B>
1- cleaner shrimp
1 - Serpent Star Fish
What is the order I should introduce them?
Do I add the chromis all at once?
Thanks
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Tank Canopy Weight? (and more!) -- 10/27/11
Good day Crew!
<<Greetings Ivan!>>
Thank you very much for ALL of your advice since I started a few years
ago! You guys played a huge role in my transition from 'hobby'
to 'passion' in the saltwater aquariums field.
<<Ah! We're happy to be a part'¦>>
Over the years, I kept upgrading my tanks. My girlfriend and I are now
the proud owners of a 120 gallon with a 50g sump, and of a small
29G.
<<Nice>>
I have a question regarding our new 120G setup (actually running since
our move in June'¦ we moved the 65G we used to have
'into' the 120G) and another one about the 29G. Both questions
are COMPLETELY unrelated. (sorry for caps).
<<No worries>>
Currently, we are using the lights we had on our 65G for the 120G. We
want to slowly upgrade to a reef system, and obviously, the lights we
have (4 x 39W T5 HO) are way too insufficient for our future needs.
<<Likely so>>
So I bought a 2 x 250W Metal Halides retrofit kit (used). I would also
like to install a retrofit kit of 2 x 60 inches T5 HO (80W).
<<Okay>>
Now the fun part is that the tank doesn't have a canopy/cover. I am
planning to build one over the winter (fun project for an unheated
garage).
<<But satisfying, nonetheless [grin]>>
My first question regarding this would be'¦ how much weight
could the tank take?
<<If the glass is 3/8' or thicker, more than you might
think'¦a wooden canopy should not be a problem. I have seen
some pretty large, ornate, and heavy units>>
It's an all glass aquarium, measuring'¦ oh God'¦
I have it in centimeters'¦ 153 cm x 47 cm (5'
by'¦ 18' I think). I would like the canopy to be more or
less 14' high, so the MH doesn't overheat the water (fans shall
be installed as well) and in order to prevent splashes.
<<Good>>
Now, this said, my father (used to be a civil engineer) and my sister
(just completed studies in architecture) strongly suggests I build an
aluminum frame and then cover it with thin plywood.
<<Not necessary, in 'my' opinion>>
In your opinion, would this reduce the weight and make it last longer?
(don't mention the cost part, I am aware'¦)
<<The weight would likely be less, yes'¦but it
wouldn't necessarily last any longer than an 'all wood'
canopy'¦plus you have to take measure to coat or otherwise
protect the aluminum from exposure to the water and possible
contamination/poisoning re. A wooden canopy built from
¾' stock should be fine>>
Also, it is my first time with MH. I read a lot about it, and from what
I understand, if the lights are on, then turned off, I need to wait
prior to turning them on again, right?
<<Yes, there's a function of metal halide lamps known as
restrike time'¦this is the time it takes for the lamp to cool
down and restart after a momentary outage. Supposedly this is not
affected by ballast type, but it seems my electronic ballasts of most
recent manufacture will restart the lamps faster than those of older
manufacture'¦though this is of little consequence>>
What if there is a power failure?
<<Not to worry'¦ If the lamps don't fire back up
after a power failure (momentary of otherwise), your livestock will be
fine until you get home to recycle the ballasts. Even should you be
away for a few days all should still be fine re the lights being
off'¦but if you have the lights on timers (recommended), these
will cycle the ballasts for you with the next off/on period>>
I use a computer backup battery in order to prevent such unwanted
events, but the battery is now quite loaded with the pumps and heaters.
If I plug 660W of lights over all that, it will last maybe 1, 2
minutes?
<<Dunno'¦but it's my suggestion you do not put the
lights on the batter-backup'¦is not necessary>>
(lol'¦) Here in Quebec, we have a VERY reliable electricity
service, but it's not infallible. Is there a way or a system or
anything I could use/do/make/invent so if there is a power outage, the
lights don't try to turn back on once the power comes back?
<<Not needed'¦you don't need to be overly concerned
here>>
Now, regarding the 29G. We used to keep seahorses in it. We had them
for a year, but last summer's move killed them. Sad story. The male
got stressed, died a week after we moved. The female kept looking at
the spot where the male's body was and let herself die within the
next few days. After that loss, we decided to keep the 29G running
empty, but now we're ready to move on. We have two possible plans
for it and I would like your opinion on this.
<<Okay>>
First, make an echinoderm aquarium, all urchins and stars! It would be
nice, but I don't know how feasible this is.
<<You could make this work with small species that can also be
supplemented with prepared foods (do research re)'¦but
grazers/difficult feeders like Linckia spp are definitely not
recommended>>
Second, a Mystery Wrasse. At first, we wanted to get one for the 120G,
but it's a no go with our 6-Line Wrasse.
<<Indeed>>
Is a 29G too small? (I personally think it could be a little too
small'¦ but I want a professional opinion on this one).
<<In my opinion, yes, it is too small for a mystery wrasse. Have
you considered utilizing it as an inline refugium for the
120?>>
I am deeply sorry about writing such a long email, and I hope you
won't hate me for that!!
<<No problem at all>>
Thank you for all your help.
<<Happy to share>>
Best regards from getting-a-little-too-cold-Canada,
Ivan
<<Ah, sunny and a forecast 80-degrees here in South Carolina!
Cheers'¦ EricR>>
Small tank, wall-type... SW...
10/19/11
Hello,
<Sara>
I just recently received an Aquavista 500 as a gift.
< http://www.aquavistainc.com/products_wallmounted.html>
These are wall mounted tanks and have a fairly efficient set up with a
t4 bulb, air pump, adjustable automatic feeder, light timing system,
programmable thermostat, and undergravel wet/dry and mechanical 114g/hr
filtration pump system. However, they are only 6.6 gallons and the
dimensions are 26x26x4.3 in. They are primarily fresh water tanks, but
can be used as salt water tanks.
<No, not really... too little surface area, volume... The margin for
error/s is way too small here>
I plan on using it as a salt water tank. I had a fish tank for 10yrs
(freshwater) and ended up giving it and the fish away when I went to
college. This was to ensure the fish were properly cared for since I
would not be there. I have researched a lot about the tank size and
realize it may be problematic. The following is my question:
Would it be possible to house 3 small fish with maximum lengths of 2.5
to 3 inches full grown?
<Again... if the power goes out for even an hour, or somehow too
much food gets introduced... it'll all be over>
The 3 in question would be 1 ocellaris clown fish, 1 green clown goby
or purple firefish goby, and 1 green Chromis?
<These are good/compatible choices for a larger volume (15 plus
gallons) w/ commensurate SA>
I know chromis usually like schools so they are probably not a viable
option, but wanted to check. If 3 fish are an option and the chromis is
not a good choice would you have another recommendation? I was planning
on placing some live rock in the tank as well and I already have a
mixed substrate of small pebbles and sand for the goby to dig. The tank
has not been established yet and it will probably take another month or
so before fish can be added. Should I place the live rock in asap or
wait a bit longer to allow the tank to finish cycling?
Thanks for your help, any advice is appreciated.
Sara
<I'd be reading re freshwater stocking choices:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/stkgSmFWSysF.htm
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Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1:
Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2:
Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 3:
Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
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