Nanos... stocking limitations/choices   11/8/06
Hi Crew,
I've been doing some research on nanos. I'm kind of drawn to the challenge of these little systems. I was thinking of keeping an anemone and a pair of black and white ocellaris clowns in a 12 gallon AquaPod.
<... a poor idea... Way too much chance/inevitability for disaster...>
Will the two 27watt CF bulbs (1 daylight 1 actinic) be adequate for say a carpet anemone (12in deep tank)?
<No>
My other idea was just a pair of clams.
<Also a poor stocking notion>
Could they thrive in this environment?
<No... insufficient volume to provide stability... too much potential for slippery slides to environmental degradation, loss>
I'm definitely going to use a nano protein skimmer and live rock, R/O water, and frequent water changes. Does either of these ideas sound workable?
<Nope>
BTW used ChemiClean on my 55g reef tank to fight a serious Cyano problem - worked beautifully! 3 weeks later, there is no Cyano, and corals, macro algae, and fish are doing great.
<Glad to hear of your good luck/experience here>
Thanks for your advice,
Mike
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Nanos, and mixing in an Anemone/Clown combo.  11/10/06
Bob,
<Michael>
Thanks for the advice. I'm glad I asked. The reason I had this "notion" was that the original reason I got into the hobby was to keep an anemone/clown set.
<A quite common instigator>
After setting up and cycling my 55 and stocking a few fish and softies, I came across your site. At that time (several months ago) you adamantly responded to my questions advising against keeping an anemone unless in a dedicated one-species tank (I had actually already bought one, and so I took him back to the LFS for 1/2 credit).
<Good for you... the planet>
I figured I didn't want a 30 or 50 gallon setup for one invert, so I thought a nano might be a good option. I can afford one now, so I ran the idea by you. Am I understanding correctly that a nano setup is not appropriate for keeping any clown-host anemone, no matter what lighting setup is provided (because of water quality issues?)
<Almost by and large to the extreme, yes>
What would be your cut-off for size?
<Depends on species involved... but on the far end of the spectrum of appropriateness might be a captive-produced BTA (Entacmaea quadricolor) and a pair of tank-bred Ocellaris or Percula clowns... in a 24 gallon or so... Stichodactyla species might be seen as toward the other end of such a scale... requiring a hundred gallon minimum volume>
I saw one FAQ where you had no problem with someone keeping a carpet and clown in a 29gal with 100 watts of lighting.
<?! Must've been some time back... perhaps someone else...>
That's only 3.4watts/gallon whereas the setup I asked about would have 4.5watts/gallon. Would a 10 gallon minisump/refugium addition make my proposal workable?
<Improves it, the chances of success that is>
I'd love to just put one in my 55 gallon reef tank so my percula could move in. So if I misunderstood and that is permissible let me know (that tank has a colt, zoanthid, Turbinaria, meat coral, three acropora frags, some pulsing xenia, 1 shrimp, 1 yellow tang, 1 percula, 1 coral beauty, 1 lawnmower blenny, 1 sleeper goby, 384watts of CF lighting X 12hrs/day, 60lbs live rock, a remora skimmer, 20 gallon 'fuge with various macro algae and a mangrove, and 4 each snails and hermits. Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia, Phosphates all at undetectable levels, specific gravity 1.025, pH 8.4, all stable for 5 months when tank finished cycling]. Three powerheads, only two of them on at night).
<Not a good bet... one that I would take/make here... very likely real trouble with allelopathy...>
BTW I have the opportunity to fly for free because of my job in the airlines, so I wondered if you had any suggestions of any SCUBA certification programs anywhere on the west coast of gulf coast that are especially good values
Thanks again,
Mike
<Mmm, best to shop around here... via the Net... instruction is far more important a quality issue given the variable of the actual instructor versus the shop, certifying agency... But best to go somewhere you feel comfortable, where the water is clear, warm, calm... Think about coming out to HI sometime for this... We visit the Big Island a few times a year, have a place here... and the dive industry is excellent in/about Kona. Bob Fenner>

Re: Nanos, anemones, visiting HI  11/12/06
Thanks for all your help, Bob. I really appreciate it. I'm going to work on a design that would have say a 12 gallon display and a 20 gallon refugium hidden in the stand. Hopefully I can come up with a workable nano-anemone display.
<Mmm, these are challenging at this volume... but can be done>
We're planning a HI trip for January. Debating between Wailea and Kona.
<Really like Kona (am there now), but Wailea is also fabulous>
Any specific suggestions regarding diving companies/instructors?
<Yes... In Kailua, Big Island Divers, Jack's Diving Locker... and Dive Makai... though there are many other excellent services in the industry here>
Never been to
Kona. Have any lodging suggestions?
-Mike
<Mmm, if you have to pay... the (Kona) Seaside is a fave... inexpensive (for the area), right on the main drag (Palani and Ali'i Dr.) and have kitchenettes... which can save you a bundle on meals. A hu'i ho! Bob Fenner>

Stocking and Photos 10/23/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hi>
First, thanks to all of you for a great site and for volunteering your time to the aquarium community. I have several questions regarding the appropriate stocking of a 55 gallon reef tank. I have kept a 20 gallon nano-reef for about a year and decided to upgrade because I wanted the chance to have more vertebrates:
Tank Size - 55 Gal, 48"
Lights - 65 watts of actinic, 195 watts of
full-spectrum (all pc's)
60lbs of live rock
3/4" of sand
<Sounds nice.>
Residents in order of introduction:
1 Pair Amphiprion Ocellaris
1 Chrysiptera parasema
1 Gramma brasiliensis
2 colonies of xenia elongata, 1 colony of button polyps, and 1 colony of zoanthids.
2 SPS - unidentified... (these seemed to be dead pieces that came with the softies, but they are now growing...)
<Nice>
Chemical parameters:
Nitrate, nitrite - 0ppm
Ammonia - 0ppm
pH - 8.3
Temp - 80F
<Good>
Maintenance:
5% water change twice a week, no chemicals are added except for 1 tsp calcium bicarbonate with each water change. I have found frequent water changes with a reputable salt-mix to be better than dumping supplements into my tank.
<Wisdom here!>
I have seen many sources say that damsels can be maintained in small groups, but these sources rarely specify whether the damsel groups must be of the same species. <Best> Is it possible to have 1-3 yellowtail damsels and a small shoal of green Chromis, given my tank size and occupants?  How would this affect future vertebrate choices?
<Perhaps one or the other, although when you include your current fish lots of chances to get some aggression problems.  Both the clowns and Gramma can get quite territorial.>
On another note, I have read Mr. Fenner's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" cover-to-cover several times (great book!), <I like it too.> and try to use the pictures to answer questions that the text does not. That took me to this observation: in the section regarding setting up different "types" of tanks, the fish and invertebrate set-up seems to be quite heavily stocked. There are 16 fish altogether, some of which would likely need new quarters eventually. Any comments on this mixture of inhabitants?
<A sacrifice to marketing/aesthetics most likely.  Publishers like books with pretty pictures and lots of fish, easier to sell.  Will copy Bob on this to see if he cares to elaborate.> <<Is as you both speculate... not of my choosing... but hopefully not too/often misleading. RMF>>
Ultimately, I am looking at having my four current fish, a dwarf angel, a butterfly, and a goby as my final inhabitants, with the extra damsels if possible. <Would leave out the damsels if you want these other fish, too much for a 55 otherwise.>
I would really like a small Zebrasoma tang of some sort, though I know it will need a new home sooner than later. I have already upgraded once, and would be willing to do it again. Any comments on that mix of fish? <Forget the tang unless you already have the bigger tanks.> I had to research very thoroughly to balance the
nano-reef, and wouldn't want to add any new stock without again doing enough research. Thanks ahead of time!
Regards,
JonMichel Seman
<Chris>

30 gallon tank - 10/17/06
Hi, just a quick thanks before I even ask a question, you guys rock. <Hey Tris, you are too nice to us. We appreciate people who do the research.>
I'm shutting down my 135 gal tank, to 2 more manageable tanks while I'm at school. I have already set up a 30 gallon cube and will set back up a 55 gallon of mine. I have a urchin that was a hitchhiker on my live rock years back, he has grown considerably and I was hoping that he could go into my 30 gal?
<I think he would be fine in a 3o gallon. I understand your hesitation and thinking about waiting but you need a tank that is established to provide him plenty to eat.>
In the tank are 2 percula clowns, 1 little watchman goby, a royal Gramma, elephants ear mushroom, Ricordea, candy cane, 2 cleaner shrimp,2 feather dusters,1 tiny tiger tail cuke and some pipe organ...wow that sounds like a lot. Would I be better to wait and put him in the 55 when I set it up? also is there any specific requirements to keeping pipe organ? the polyps never extend for me.
<Pipe organ coral is difficult to feed, you might try to use the cone method for feeding each individual polyp to get that, you don't mention your lighting but they have high lighting requirements as well. At least halide in my experience so you might be better to trade it for a different coral.>
Now with enough live rock and janitors would I have to have filtration on my 30 gallon? right now it has a little whisper filter which looks odd on a cube.
<With you load, I would consider adding additional filtration but definitely some type of additional water movement.>
Sorry for so many questions, last one...I promise. On my 55 which is 20" high, would I have enough light to keep some sort of anemone? The light is 260 watts of pc. I would like a RBTA but don't know if i can.
<You might be able to keep an Atlantic anemone but honestly I think you are going to have troubles.  
thank you so much for the help and I look forward to hearing back from you.  <You are going to do great with everything you do, you read and research and ask questions and are doing so much right. Great job, MacL>
Tris

Just a few questions I seem to be getting the most conflicted advice on. New Setup Checkup 10/2/06
Hi.  Your site is great, I've learned a lot already from it and hope to keep learning from you. <Good to hear.> I am saving money up to start a saltwater tank, and am definitely interested in doing things correctly the first time. <Good>  When I started keeping freshwater tanks a few years ago I was steered in every wrong direction possible, a mistake I don't want to make this time, especially since most of the stores here seem to be in the same "money over customer" base one store even told me I could keep 2 Oscars in a 10 gallon tank forever!)  
<Well, I wouldn't go there for advice ;)>
I guess I should start with my plans.  I only have the space for a small tank, a 29 gallon.  I am going to use aragonite sand and have a bed of about 2". <Less than 1 or more than 3 is best.>  I am unsure about how much rock I am going to use, I am going to get a lot of porous 'dead' rock from my LFS and seed it with some beautiful aquacultured live rock that I have found.  Probably about 5 lbs of the LR.  For my equipment, I know I will use pc lighting, have a skimmer and have  a fuge.  Plus the obvious things like heaters.  I plan on getting all of the non-living things first, setting up the tank then adding the liverock to cycle it.  I figure the rock can cycle it and while that is happening I can watch to make sure I don't have any bad hitchhikers in the tank.  After it has been set up for a couple of months (after cycle basically) then I will add the livestock to it.
<I would probably let it run a little longer to let the LR really establish itself and seed the base rock.>
I don't want a lot of fish, just a few.  I know I will have an ocellaris clown, and a clown goby still haven’t' decided on a colour yet, most likely a citrinus though)  I was planning on a rainfordi goby, but have read at your site that they need a more established tank. <Yep> Though would a 29 gallon tank be enough for one after it has been set up for a while? <Probably not.>  Or should I forget about that plan? <I would> I want about 10 snails, an even mix of astrea, cerith and Nassarius. <Good>  I am also planning on getting a scarlet hermit crab or two, I love to watch hermits and have been told that those are the most reef safe, as far as crabs go. <Yep> I don't have any plans to keep shrimp, but if I did decide to I would get peppermint cleaners. <They are nice, enjoyed them when I had them it the past.>  For the corals, I will have a random assortment of zoanthid and palythoas.  A Ricordea and some xenia.  Perhaps someday a Capnella OR devil's hand for some variety.  Does this sound like too much livestock, or can you find any big incompatibility problems with my list?
<Not really, just don't overload it with corals, just a few and leave them room to grow.>
For my filtration, I know the skimmer and rock are the bulk of it, but what skimmer should I get?  I was going to get a remora, but the LFS I am going through is hesitant to get any in because he has never used them himself. <I absolutely love mine.>  He stocks the CoraLife super skimmers. <Check some of the message boards for opinions on this model.>  I have heard that either works "better" than the other.  Also I have heard, dumb question here, that xenias like their water a bit Underskimmed. <High water quality is important for these like all other corals.>  Would I be overskimming for them with either skimmer, or would I be just fine?  
<Will be fine.>
The fuge I am going to use will be an AquaClear filter made into one.  It'll have some sand, perhaps a bit of rock, and some macro.  Probably either sea lettuce or turtle grass.  Is either one better than the other? <Should be fine, although not as fast growing as some other macroalgae.>  It'll be lit by a small pc light.  I'm hoping to grow out pods in it.  <Will>  The model of filter I was looking at has 500 gph flow rate.  Should I go for the next size down model(300 gph), or should I keep this one in mind? <Bigger the better.> Also, with either size would I need to have additional powerheads for more flow, or should I be fine with that much? <Almost impossible to have too much flow, I would add a powerhead or two.>  My LFS has said to add another one or two powerheads to that mix, yet that seems like the flow would be nonstop everywhere in the tank.  
<Looking for 10X tank volume turnover.>
Also, how much light should I get? <Depends.> The LFS has said that the single light pc strip(65 watts) should be more than enough for the tank. <Maybe> Should I stick with that plan or should I get the double strip light?  I am never going to have any form of anemone, clam or SPS in the tank.  And really most LPSs don't interest me.  Huge IF I ever tried one in that tank it would be a candy cane.  I've read that they don't need massive amounts of lighting, and I could keep it near the top of the tank for more than it would be getting otherwise.  So yeah, 65, or 130 watts?
<Really depends on what specific corals you get.>
What salt should I use?  Hm, don't really know how to elaborate more on that one, just which brands seem to be better, in your experience?  Or is there even a really big difference?
<Most are pretty comparable.  Most popular is Instant Ocean, most commonly available, reasonably priced.  Shedd Aquariums brand of choice if that helps.>
I think that is about all my head has rattling around in it at the moment, so thank you in advance for your time.
<Sure>
Dana
<Chris>

Small marine single species trials   10/2/06
Hello There!
For years I have had a 20 gallon marine aquarium, which is currently empty. Beforehand I had several animals in there (i.e. Coral Banded Shrimp, Scooter Blennies, Damsels,
<Too small for>
ect
<No such word... etc... a contraction for et cetera res... "and other things">
), but over the years those eventually died off and i havent bothered to restock it. So currently the only inhabitants are several small "Scud" creatures
<You point them and they go?>
and anything else lurking in the live rock. I, of course, and interested in making my aquarium a home for a meaningful animal again, but i
<I...>
have some plans that seem to be very unusual, for very few people have any information on the species i plan on. I want a single species display tank, but of the animals i have in mind i can only keep one. anyways, here goes:
The first species I had in mind was the Speckled Crab (Arenaeus cribrarius). He's closely related to the Blue Crab and is not the most polite animal to have in a tank. however, they do seem interesting to keep especially for feeding.
The second species I had in mind was also a swimming crab, the Lesser Blue Crab (Callinectes similis). these guys are a bit more brightly colored.
<And tasty>
Oh, and yes in case you were wondering I have considered buying a live blue crab from the local grocery store and putting it in my tank, the biggest reason i didn't, however, is because they get much larger than the two species i listed. also: i cannot imagine an animal being sold for food is in great health.
<Mmm, when "fresh", well-handled...>
The other species i had in mind were all snails..... predatory ones at that. First I wanted a Tulip Snail since those are for sale from time to time and stay a reasonable size. Am only discouraged by their almost total lack of ability to feed on bivalves thus negating my plan of running up the grocery store every few days and buying a few live mussels. The other two species CAN feed on mussels: the Lighting Whelk and Pear Whelk. the Lighting Whelk was my first idea, but those get BIG. so then i decided on a Pear Whelk, which stays a reasonable size.
  Unfortunately, with the exception of the Tulip Snail, none of the species I mentioned are really ever available for the pet trade. My local pet store did have a Horse Conch for $99, but those are monstrous. The other 4 species i have seen for sale at some scientific institutes, but apparently they only sell to public aquaria and universities. So my questions are: how "Hardy" are these animals? (compared to more common aquarium species), and do you think these will every become available?
Thank you VERY much.
<Like most marines, are very/quite hardy... if collected, held, shipped... appropriately, processed expediently... Worth trying. Bob Fenner>

Hello, I have a 26g bowfront tank that I wish to set up as an anemone/clown system. - 09/22/06
For lighting I have a 130w orbit pc fixture. For water movement I will be using an AquaClear 110 power filter and a MaxiJet 600 powerhead. I also have 30lbs of CaribSea Aragamax sand. I will be using about 26lbs of premium Fiji LR as well. I have a 24g reef and it has been running great for 6 months, and I have had reefs in the past, so I wanted to do something new. I'm pretty sure the only anemone I would be able to keep would be a BTA, but if possible I would like to try and LTA because I really wanted to do a pair of Orange Skunk clowns. if not, I will more than likely do the BTA with a single maroon clown. My question are, will I be able to keep an LTA under my lighting, and would any other anemones be possible? someone said I could try a carpet as well? if so how often and what should I feed it? There will be no corals in this tank, just the anemone. also, would I be able to do a few of
those colorful rock/flower anemones( Epicystis crucifer) in there as well? if I happen to do the BTA, would I be able to do a pair of gold stripe maroons or would I just have to do a single? I know they get big.
<<Jordan:  I have a LTA in about 5" of sand under 400W MH SE lighting.  The anemone seems to be thriving and is about 18 inches in diameter.  LTA's need a sand bed several inches deep in order to bury their foot.  Since you have never kept an anemone, I suggest looking for a clone of the Bubble Tip Anemone.  They are much easier to keep, can live under less powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't pulled out of the ocean.  Most species of clowns will easily host in them.  I had a pink skunk clown that hosted in my BTA (until he found a way to jump out of the tank).  Best of luck, Roy>
    JB

10 Gallon Marine Tank: A Doomed System?   9/16/06
I looked through FAQ's on the Marine section of your website (and I recommend this site to anyone with a fish/aquarium/amphibian/meaning of life question, you are all amazing) and read the (very discouraging) article on small marine tanks as well as the ones on nano reefs, and I am still tempted.  
I really don't have the option of anything larger than a 10 or 12 gallon tank (worries of the floor falling through to the driveway below after a period of time), but I am VERY interested in a marine tank.  As in, I spend much free time drooling over articles about it online, and drooling over the books that I cannot afford to buy in paper but instead check out of the library.  [I highly doubt I am alone in this.  I also think I may be stalking several articles on WWM.]  I know the larger the better: more stable; easier to maintain; and in case of livestock death, the whole thing won't go kalbooie as easily.
But I really want a small, happy, marine tank.  I like the idea of keeping featherduster worms because I love watching them.  I also really like barnacles and anemones, but I doubt even you can think of an anemone or barnacle that would do well in this size tank.  (I can dream, though.)  I'd be in heaven with a single anemone, featherduster worms and maybe a fish (not necessary at all for me to be happy).  I read and understood the stern advice about over-feeding: keeping bettas will do that to you.
Does anyone at WWM have some favorite invertebrates you can imagine doing well in a small tank like this?  I understood the shrimp (fire, scarlet and sexy) and the mushrooms as well as polyps, but are there any specifically that are hardy and do well in a (much) smaller environment?  I'm more interested in the invertebrates and reef-type systems, but I just don't have the ability to keep a larger tank.  
I realize I have to do much more frequent water changes and constantly test, but my mom's a chemist so I've got more than a little know-how of practical chemistry and I can devote the time to testing daily and weekly 1/4 to 1/3 water changes.
I'd love to set up a tank like this, but I realize the futility of a failed endeavor and don't want to kill livestock and waste money because I am determined to try something stupid.  I'm also not talking about setting up a tank like this for some time, I feel more research is necessary--again, I don't want to kill the animals or stunningly crash and burn.
Thank you for any advice you can give,
Meghan R
<<Meghan:  A 20 or 25 would give you even more flexibility if you can swing it.  Invert only tanks are really cool.  In a small tank, you could have a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, hermit crabs, feather duster, etc.  In my 25, I currently have a coco worm and a tuxedo urchin (great creatures but they need coralline algae to eat).  Frankly, an anemone is not realistic in a small tank; but, you can get the waving movement effect with several other things; including colt coral, frogspawn, Fungia, torch coral.  Small tanks are harder to maintain; but, if you proceed cautiously, you can do it.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Deteriorating Toadstool...Noxious Corals in a Nano Tank - 09/14/06
Good afternoon Crew!
<<Morning here...Hello!>>
Hope you're enjoying this beautiful fall afternoon!  I'm writing today with a concern about my toadstool leather.  I've attached a previous email that describes my set up.
<<Thanks for the background info>>
Everything is the same, except I've finally conquered the hair algae battle!! :-)
<<Yay!>>
I didn't think that the day would ever come!
<<Can/does usually take time...and perseverance>>
My concern is this.  About 2 weeks ago, the leather shed its waxy coating as normal.  (It usually does this about once every 5-7 days.)  Then the day after it shed, the tentacles retracted and it shed again the next day.  Then it repeated this again 2 days later.
<<Mmm...would seem something has gotten in to the water and is irritating the toadstool.  Any new livestock additions?>>
Since then (it has been about 5 days now, the tentacles are still retracted.
<<That's not a good sign>>
And I've noticed a difference in the texture of the coral.  The coral used to have slightly concave areas where the tentacles retract into.  Now the areas are convex (like little bumps) and very white instead of being the same shade as the rest of the coral.  I have also noticed that the entire coral has changed a bit in color.  It is now slightly grayish.
<<Another "not good" sign>>
I've done 2 large water changes (each about 25%) over the last several days & I've changed my Chemi-Pure out for a new batch thinking maybe a bit of allelopathy was to blame here.
<<Indeed...but have you also done tests for all the "usual" culprits? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)>>
But none of the other corals seem to be suffering any.
<<Maybe just "not yet">>
My zoas are fully open & the xenia is pulsing away as always.
<<Hmm, how "close" are these zoanthids to the toadstool?>>
One other thing, the stalk seems to have developed a "crease" and is a bit folded over.
<<Yes...the coral is declining and starting to collapse>>
I'm wondering if I need to frag below the crease & hope that it regenerates itself, or do I do nothing and hope for the best?
<<Any "fragging" would need to be done from the "crown" for much hope in propagating/saving a piece of this coral (but you could try if you wish).  Might be best to observe/remove if the deterioration worsens>>
If I need to frag it back, that presents yet another problem.  It has attached itself to several large rocks which are all epoxied together.
<<Possibly a moot point here>>
I'm not sure if I can remove it?!  Otherwise I would have quarantined it by now.  (I have photos but they don't seem to go through when I try to email them.  I think that the firewall on my server chucks these out.)
Thanks in advance for your input.
-Jaime
<<Keep an eye on the toadstool and remove immediately if it worsens/starts to "come apart" to preclude further poisoning of your system.  I also suggest you try to determine the core reason for this incident...do water tests, review your stock placement/density//compatibility, etc.  I truly suspect the fact this is a 12g "nano" system stocked with noxious soft corals is the reason for your troubles.  Regards, EricR>>

Stocking Advice  - 09/10/06
I have a 29 gallon tank with 25 pounds of live rock and 30 pound of live sand.  Right now the inhabitants are a Midas Blenny, 2 scarlet hermit crabs, 2 top snails, and  2 Margarita Snails.  I would like for a single gold stripe maroon clown with a BTA to be the centerpiece of the tank, and I know I should introduce this fish last because of its aggression, but I would first like to have one or two other small fish.  What are some good, active, small fish that would be compatible with a Maroon Clown and a Midas Blenny? 
  Thanks,
  Vince
<<Vince:  If your anemone reaches maximum size, things could get pretty tight in your tank.  Since Maroon Clowns are so aggressive, you might want to consider getting two of them, instead of an unrelated species.  Another interesting option would be a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp.  They are always out and neat to watch.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Stocking a 25G Marine 9/7/06
Hello!
<Hi>
First I would first like to say thank you so much for all of your help! I would have given up months ago if it weren't for your site, and Bob's book. <Is a great book.>  After having my tank for almost 6 months, and after a lot of rethinking, I'm re-planning my stocking list. I would just like for someone to look it over, and see if this would be too much for my tank and/or if the animals are compatible? I have a 25 gallon saltwater Marineland Eclipse, 24"L, 12"D, 18"H, 25 lbs. of liverock, and about .5" livesand. I do a 20% water change weekly. I keep my spg at about 1.022. <A little low, closer to NSW levels would be better.> I don't have a Protein Skimmer, because of the tank that I ignorantly chose. <Have seen some adapted for this tank, not easy though.> I would also like to add some sort of Powerhead to increase circulation a little more. <Always a good idea.> Anyway!
Right now I have 3 Blue-Green Chromis, 1 Cleaner Shrimp, 1 Emerald Crab (that I'm trying to catch and return. Pesky little bugger!) 2 Hermit Crabs, 8 Turbo Snails, and a colony of Purple Mushrooms. I would like to stock (slowly, and of course with 3 weeks of QT):
1 Banggai Cardinal (Pterapogon Kaudneri)
1 Elegant Firefish (Nemateleotris)
1 Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis Fridmani)
1 Small Orange Marble Starfish (Fromia Monilis)
And I can keep or remove my current 3 Green-Blue Chromis, depending on how much strain they will have on the system.
Are any of these creatures unsuitable for QT? <No>
I've read that starfish are messy and can put a strain on a small tank. Is this true? <They can get quite large.> I can't seem to find much information on that. Thank you for your help. I look forward to hearing your insight!
-Christy
<For a 25 I would say you are fully stocked now, and would not add any more.  Also, would not combine the Dottyback with any of these more passive fish in this sized tank, he will get too aggressive.>
<Chris>

Re: Stocking a 25G Marine Part II 9/8/06
Thank you for your reply! <Sure> I keep my salinity a little low because I purchase my water at my LFS, and those are the levels they keep the water at. <Would probably add a little salt to raise the spg closer to natural.> They are the closest and most reputable place I could find to buy water. I had a lot of problems trying to mix my own water.
<What were you having a problem with?>
So my aquarium is already full stocked with only 3 fish? <In my opinion yes.> I've read on this site that about 1/2 inch of fish
per gallon of real water. So wouldn't that mean I could have around 5-10 inches of fish? Am I looking at this the wrong way? Thanks again!
-Christy
<I put no value on the inch of fish per gallon rule, it does not take into account territorial issues, swimming room, difference in metabolism of different species, and a host of other issues.  Marine fish are generally not as "social" as fresh water, and when confined to a small space like an aquarium can become quite aggressive.  Mix this with their more acute intolerance of poor water conditions and environmental swings and "light" stocking becomes paramount.>
<Chris>  

Re: New Marine Setup/Cloudy Water - 09/07/06
Eric and Crew,
<<Hey Rick!>>
You've done it again.  I followed your advice and the water has steadily cleared up.
<<Ahh...always gratifying to hear/read>>
I placed the powerheads back in the aquarium as directed and simply waited this thing out.  Within 3 days the bloom was practically gone.
<<As is usually the case.  I'm glad you were able to muster the patience to wait it out>>
Now, after a week the water is crystal clear and I'm getting some really interesting growth in the Live Rock (By the way, I ordered my live rock from LiveAquaria.com, select Lalo rock, it's gorgeous and I'd highly recommend it ).
<<I have been hearing much praise for this rock of late>>
I do, however, have a few quick questions, if you have the time.
<<Certainly>>
The temperature is hovering around 84 degrees since placing the powerheads back in the aquarium.
<<As does mine this time of year...not a big concern, though you don't want it creeping up much higher>>
I've ordered small fans to install in the hood in hopes of reducing it down to around 76-78 degrees.  Can I hope to expect this much of a change?
<<Not likely...a 2-4 degree drop is probably more realistic>>
I realize this may be a guessing game, but if I need to take further measures I'd like to start ASAP.
<<Lets see what the fans accomplish and go from there.  You're near the upper limit on temperature, but the addition of the fans should give you a few more "degrees" of breathing space.  If the fans you are adding are simply to "exhaust" the hood then do consider adding a small "clip-on" or similar fan to "blow directly across the surface of the water" to speed evaporative cooling>>
Secondly, I had a bag of Chemipure break in my sump.
<<Hate it when that happens>>
I've cleaned out the sump, but not before the carbon fragments got into the tank.
<<Mmm, yes...teeny bits they are>>
They're appearing in patches on my substrate.
<Not a concern.  The carbon will simply act/perform as any other porous material in the long term by colonizing with bacteria...very much like your live rock/sand does>>
I'm cleaning this out as best as I can, but with 120 lbs of live rock it's difficult to get it all.
<<No doubt>>
Should I remove the rock and meticulously clean the substrate?
<<I wouldn't>>
Can this be harmful to the aquatic life?
<<Nothing to be concerned with here>>
Last question, as far as stocking is concerned, I'd like to gradually add the following life to the aquarium and was hoping you could provide your opinion.
<<Well Rick, when it comes to "stocking" I definitely have opinions...and am always glad to share>>
Two ocellaris clowns (could you recommend the proper anemone?)
<<Mmm, trouble here right off the bat my friend.  I strongly recommend you DON'T acquire an anemone until you get a bit more experience under your belt.  It's not that these creatures are "delicate doilies" so much (some few species are quite hardy), but they do present their own special challenges...and risks...that are very easily/often overlooked.  For certain you don't want to introduce an anemone to this very new system...and certainly you don't want to mix this animal with other cnidarians.  The clowns will do fine without a host anemone...but if you really want to attempt this animal I recommend you spend time reading/researching and decide if you're capable and committed to providing the correct environment for the long-term health of these virtually immortal creatures>>
1-Long Nose Butterfly, 1-coral banded or fire shrimp,
<<The fire (blood) shrimp gets my vote...less destructive of the two and "may" facilitate as a biological parasitic control (cleaner).  The coral-banded shrimp will likely devour/destroy most all the emergent life on your live rock>>
1-Orchid Dottyback, 1-Coral Beauty, 1-Blue Girdled Angel,
<<As a fish mix, these are fine.  If you did acquire an anemone, the butterfly and the angels would likely prove incompatible>>
and 1-small puffer/Toby (something in the Canthigaster genus).
<<Also would not be compatible with the anemone>>
I'm leery about the Toby as some sources state that they can be "fin nippers".
<<Not can..."are"...and more than just fins!  Tobies are generally hardy/interesting aquarium specimens, but they need to be housed with "agile" fishes to avoid getting nipped...would also pose a threat to many/most crustaceans/inverts>>
Can you recommend a species that tends to be less aggressive?
<<Mmm, the "nipping" behavior is indicative of the genus (most all "puffer" genera) as far as I'm aware>>
In lieu of the puffer I was also considering a Hawkfish (Flame or Long Nose).  Any advice you can provide would be appreciated and not taken lightly.
<< Ah yes, well Grasshopper...Wait/study-up for now on all the commonly kept/available anemones, and go with the hawkfish if you’re uncertain about the Toby (either species of hawk is fine, though I really like Oxycirrhites typus...this species would also be less risk to the shrimp)>>
Thanks again.
Rick in DE   
<<Always welcome my friend.  Eric Russell in SC>>

Stocking A 24 Gallon Nano   9/4/06
Greetings from Australia, WWM crew.
<And to you from Michigan, USA>
Many thanks for the site, I have gained valuable knowledge and saved myself from disaster which (most probably) would have occurred had I launched into the reef keeping hobby unprepared.  
<Well said.>
I like to think of myself as an accomplished freshwater enthusiast, having kept various tropicals and most recently, have been keeping myself busy with African cichlids.
Now, my attention as turned to saltwater; specifically (much to your dismay, no doubt) “nano reef” displays.  My question relates to the stocking of my small 24 gallon tank; I would like to keep a few corals in it and having read various articles on the matter, have come to the conclusion that soft corals are my best bet.
<Agreed, much less chemical aggression here.>
There is currently 3kg (6.6 lbs) of live rock in the tank, and it has been there for about a week now.  The tank is still cycling and I intend putting another 3kg next week, then gradually increasing the live rock load until I am satisfied with the aquascape and the tank is stable.  The sand is crushed marble, roughly 1” deep.  I’m also keen on anemones, however realize keeping one would probably be an irresponsible choice, and have decided against it.
<Very much in agreement.>
I don't trust the employees of my LFS (too business oriented for my taste) and feel I cannot rely on them for decent advice on stocking my tank.  Can you offer a hardy mix of (preferably common) specimens suitable for a small setup such as mine?  I intend on keeping a small fish in there, along with various helpful invertebrates.
<I'd probably go with an assortment of mushroom corals, some xenia and star polyps.>
Many thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Sebastian

Star Polyp Color Loss... Allelopathy in a crowded, small, mis-stocked nano   9/2/06
Hello Crew:
<Richard>
I am writing to you concerning a very odd star polyp issue. First, my tank:
10Gal Nano - 2 inch sand bed, 17lbs live rock - 8 months old
55 Gal Power Filter (set 1/4 on) - run one side with carbon constantly
1 20 Gal Power Head
Heat at 78 - fluctuates 77-79
96Watt Aqualight 50/50 PC
Weekly - Biweekly 1 gallon water change
C-Balance every 2-3 days
<With testing...>
Liquid Calcium every 2-3 days (alternate from C-Balance)
PH Buffer 2 times/week
<Dittos>
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate ~0
PH 8.2-8.3
Calcium - 300-350 (a bit low but it just seems that this tank stays low)
Phosphate - 0
Mates:
-Percula Clown Fish
-Linckia Star Fish (Didn't realize at the time that 10 gal is too small - I think he is hungry and appears to be shrinking, but I'm cycling a 37 that he can move into soon).
<Still too small...>
-Blue Maxima Clam 2"
-Teardrop Clam 2"
<... these tridacnids are misplaced here>
-3 Blue Hermits
-4 Astrea Snails
-Xenia - 2 types
-Button Polyps - many colors
-Ricordea - 3 heads
-Mushrooms
-Toadstool Coral )Getting big now!
-Star Polyps
I feed the clown flakes - he will eat out of my hands which is cool. I feed DTs twice per week for the clams, and feed frozen Cyclop-eeze to the star polyps 2 times/week.
Absolutely everything is the tank is growing at a great rate (except the starfish).
Now to my question: The star polyps were given to me by one of the guys at my LFS (just tore off a piece growing on the sand!). The polyps have white centers with long green tentacles. The underling color is brown. Ever since I've had them, they have grown at an amazing rate.
<... dangerous in such a small volume>
They have never had any problems opening fully and continue to grow like crazy. However, over the past 3 months, the green color has been disappearing from the tentacles (leaving them brown). Now the green color is nearly completely gone. I read one forum article where a respondent stated that it may be that if the animal isn't being fed enough that the symbiotic algae was taking over the feeding chore - providing energy for the coral and as a result, changing the pigment through sheer reproductive growth. This seemed to make since and I increased feedings of Cyclop-eeze to no avail. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks for the great articles and FAQs.
Rich in Holly Springs NC.
<You need to invest in a much larger system... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. You have a classic case of allelopathy going on here... will result in a crash... soon. Bob Fenner>

Percula Pair Going Through Divorce? Small, mis-mixed cnid. system, Tube Anemone...   9/2/06
Afternoon,
<Yawnnnn! AM here now>
Thank you for being a resource for me! I've searched through the FAQ's and Daily Q&A for an answer but I've only found bits and pieces relative to my clowns' situation rather than the whole story.
They've been a pair for nearly 8 months, 6 of which in my 12gallon nano tank with an appropriate watt Halide looming over it. The environment is littered with coral -- neon green star polyps, leather coral, devil's hands, bubble coral, frog spawn -- and presently has a single tube anemone.
<Too crowded... and a Cerianthus? Toxic>
My tank is not a good supporter of anemone's such as carpets, bulb, and long tentacles, or rather, I'M not a good supporter of them since they don't live longer than a couple months.
<... agreed... small marine volumes are unsuitable for actinarians period>
My guess is a lacking food supply since my clowns don't feed their anemone like the clowns I've had in the past. I'm now trying the turkey baster with brine method.
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tubeanem.htm
and the linked files above>
The problem (aside from my inability to keep an anemone besides the tube anemone) is that my pair aren't much of a pair anymore. When I had my last anemone -- which I just netted out of the tank today and tossed to the garbage men,
<...>
my pair started going through the mating motions -- which i identified by the smaller having the little seizure spasms near the larger. Now that the anemone is gone the two aren't getting along.
The smaller will chase the larger into a corner, leaving the larger gasping at the top of the tank.
<... too crowded... no where to get away... the cnidarians, incompatible, warring with each other... will take out any/all fishes>
I'm worried because I absolutely adore these two clowns,
<If you do... then grant them a decent habitat... Please... Read re the needs of these fish, provide them... A feeling will not support their health... only action, with knowledge can. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clownfis.htm
and the linked files above>
they're incredibly hardy and eat like triggers, and now that they're fighting as they are I'm pretty much just waiting for one to get too stressed out and end up being an offering to the porcelain gods. They're about an inch and a half and inch and three quarters long, the larger being thicker; they're a bright orange with three white stripes connected by two large black patches. The colors are immaculate and I haven't seen another like them in my LFS so I'm unable to attempt to find a like male to replace the one who's pissy now.
Thank you for your time!
Ian.
<Translate your sentiment to focus, attention in gathering useful information re the life in your care. Read! Bob Fenner>

Life suitable for my small SW tank - 09/01/06
Greetings from Australia, WWM crew.
<Hi there!>
Many thanks for the site, I have gained valuable knowledge and saved myself from disaster which (most probably) would have occurred had I launched into the reef keeping hobby unprepared.  
I like to think of myself as an accomplished freshwater enthusiast, having kept various tropicals and most recently, have been keeping myself busy with African cichlids.
Now, my attention as turned to saltwater; specifically (much to your dismay, no doubt) “nano reef” displays.
<That's OK - a bit harder, but I've succeeded, and with time and effort you will too!>
My question relates to the stocking of my small 24 gallon tank; I would like to keep a few corals in it and having read various articles on the matter, have come to the conclusion that soft corals are my best bet.  There is currently 3kg (6.6 lbs) of live rock in the tank, and it has been there for about a week now.  The tank is still cycling and I intend putting another 3kg next week, then gradually increasing the live rock load until I am satisfied with the aquascape and the tank is stable.  The sand is crushed marble, roughly 1” deep.  I’m also keen on anemones, however realize keeping one would probably be an irresponsible choice, and have decided against it.
I don't trust the employees of my LFS (too business oriented for my taste) and feel I cannot rely on them for decent advice on stocking my tank.  Can you offer a hardy mix of (preferably common) specimens suitable for a small setup such as mine?  I intend on keeping a small fish in there, along with various helpful invertebrates.
<You can do many things with a nano tank, but remember - moderation is the key here.  First make sure you add enough live rock, it really does make a difference.  Your soft coral choice is a good one - you can also add some zoas/mushrooms.  As for fish - make sure you keep it small - in size and numbers.  Some gobies would work (clown, citron, neon, redbanded so on.), also firefish are very common for tanks this size and prove to be very peaceful (just make sure other tankmates are also peaceful or these guys won't eat!.)  A few blennies are also OK, and even a pair of clownfish if you wish, just don't then add much more in livestock.  
Here you have many choices, just research what you want and have fun with it!!  Enjoy!  There is an excellent article on WWM which will give you the basics.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm  Read up!  Jen S.>
Many thanks,
Sebastian

Where do I start? Nanos, Coral, Skimmers....  8/31/06
Hi,
   <Hello there>
     I am a very frequent visitor of WWM, and have  been visiting almost daily for the past year or so, to read the  freshwater FAQ's and of course, seeing the Pic of the Day. Why do  I visit daily? Because it is an awesome site!!!
    <Heeeee! Thanks>
    Now, I have been interested in Saltwater from the  beginning, but have never been umm... brave enough to do so.  I  have a 26 gallon community tank, 2.5 gallon guppy setup (failed breeding setup),  a 55 gallon Cardinal/ Ram community tank, (all planted)
<Nice>
a 20 gallon  pleco/ frog tank, and my prize possession- a 125 Planted Discus Tank (8 med-  large Discus who are happy and healthy and breeding thanks to the WWM  crew) So that's 1..2..3..4..5 Tanks. May not seem like much, but I am still in  high school (junior)
<!>
and my parents are not my greatest fans! LOL (Direct Quote  from Mom: "Fish are icky, smelly and slimy"
<Heeeeee! Can be!>
What cracks me up though, is that  every time a guest comes over, my collection is the first thing they show  off....go figure.
   <I get the same for my gardening efforts...>
     Well, I figured, if I can do discus, I may be  able to handle saltwater.( I may also pursue a career in this area  (biologist of some sort) (not sure))
<Mmm, not too soon to "do a stint" as a retail clerk... even start gearing up for part time self-employment work in the Aquarium Service industry...>
Problem is, my parents have banned me  from keeping more tanks. Any suggestions on how to convince them???
<Mmm... perhaps an inquiry as to their specific concerns... Is this principally to do with their wanting you to focus on your studies? Perhaps a pledge/contract to excel will satisfy them here... A consideration for costs? Here's where the part time work might come in... Maybe there's not enough room, or electrical power in the house? I'd ask them directly>
I want to  set up a "nano-reef". My tank will be the AGA  7 Gallon Glass Mini Bow. I  have been looking, reading, and learning (hopefully) about saltwater tanks for  about the last week or so, on nano-reefs.com, WWM, and a forum devoted to 7  Gallon Mini Bows, just to name a few.  
   Problem is, I am overwhelmed by all of the info (as I am  sure you know, there is quite a bit out there). But, I believe I have a grasp on  quite a few things. I apologize for the length of this email, but I feel you  should be well-informed of my situation.    
    I plan on having a "natural" tank of the following  specs:
7 gallon glass mini-bow
Live rock
Live sand bed
corals (numerous types)
<Careful here>
"clean up" crew
a pair of true percula clowns
<Mmm... these really need much more room>
Now for the questions:
1.) How many pounds of live rock should I purchase, and what type?
<A few to about ten... S. Pacific...>
2.) How many pounds of sand should I purchase
<Ten or so...>
3.) Lighting: The tank comes supplies with a 14 watt 16" long fluorescent  
bulb. Is this sufficient for keeping corals?
<Mmm... not many species can/will thrive under such low illumination>
I do not plan on keeping  anemones.
4.) If not, how can I achieve the proper amount (what is the proper  amount?)
<Changing out for a small CF unit likely>
5.) What should my clean-up crew consist of? (I want shrimp, crabs, and snails) Can you recommend some species?
<Some mix of small snails... specifically here...>
6.) Corals: Could you recommend some low- med light species that stay  small/ grow slowly?
<Bits of small species of Alcyoniids are what I'd start with... trading frags through a club highly recommended.>
Also, how are corals attached to live rock? (similar to java fern on driftwood? lol) How do they consume energy? I read something about micro algae. Do I need to feed them?
<All posted on WWM...>
(Do I need to add any chemicals?)
<Likely not... just regular water changes.>
7.) Do I need a protein skimmer? I have received conflicting information, would prefer not to use one though.
<Would be a good idea to have/use a small one>
8.) Can I use a regular HOB Power filter? What media should be kept in it?  
<Can, and posted>
Can I place a heater in the filter?
<I would not. I'd put this in the little tank>
9.) What should the salinity be of this type of setup?
<1.025... matched carefully with new water>
I found an already mixed solution called Nutri-SeaWater (_www.naturesocean.com_
(http://www.naturesocean.com) ) It has a pH of 8.3,  is this good?
<Synthetic would/will be better>
More importantly, it has a salinity of 1.027, is this a good  level?
<Too high>
10.) Top-off: Can I top off with Distilled water? Or is RO better?
<I'd use RO, but can use distilled>
(Can   easierly (is that a word?) obtain Distilled)
11.) Water changes: I plan on 1 gallon a week with the  Nutri-SeaWater.
12.) What is the best temperature for this setup?
<Upper seventies F.... higher can be trouble>
    Umm I think that's about it.... For now. I want to  keep this as simple as possible. I really truly appreciate your time and  effort, I apologize for the length again, but I want to be successful.  Do you have any books that you could recommend to me?
<John Tullock's "Natural Reef Aquariums">
  I would gladly  purchase them.
Thank you!
Anthony
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Anemone . . . Outta Control!/Anemone Systems - 08/26/2006
Hi Gang!
<Hello Thomas>
Thanks in advance for answering my question.
<You're welcome.>
Stats first:
24 Aqua Cube
16 lbs LR, 5 lbs LS, 10 lbs crushed substrate
79 degrees. Amon = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrates > 20. Calcium ± 300.  
Weekly water changes of 4 gallons. 8 months established.
<Lighting?>
1 Yellow Tail Damsel, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp, 1 Sally Footed <Foot> Crab,  
1 tiny blue crab (I mean TINY) I had a large blue crab, but he jumped ship last week. Contemplating his replacement. 2 Clarkii Clowns, mated pair (that took a long time - she chased him for months, now he lives happily on the top edge of the Anemone <Anemone>) with hosted Sebae Anemone.
My problem: The Anemone has gotten HUGE. It is gigantic - over 18 inches wide! It's in the back of the tank, and it's taking over. It opens up fully during the day and then shrinks at night. I feel as though it's too big for the tank. Is there any thing I can do to it?  
Or should I just be happy it's alive and thriving in an aqua cube and leave it alone?
<You're not going to be happy too much longer.  The 24 gallon cube is much too small for housing anemones, especially this species.   Sebaes can grow up to 1' 8" under ideal aquarium conditions, and, the Sebae Anemone is one of the more difficult anemones to keep in captivity for any length of time.   I suggest you find a better home for this anemone.  Do read here and linked files above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>  
Thanks!
<You're welcome.  In future queries, do cap letters that need to be capped and do a spelling/grammar check.  We do not have the time to correct queries before posting.  Thank you,  James (Salty Dog)>
Thomas

50 gallon Hagan Tank, lighting, SW, reading  8/25/06
I have a 50 gallon Hagen tank (it is 36 x 16 x 20 in height).   I have live rock, fish, anemone, mushroom, leather, polyps.  I would like to get a clam, bubble coral, sun coral.
<... trouble with this mix... Please search WWM re each species System, Compatibility...>
  What type of lighting should I get?
<... Please read here:  http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Scroll down to the bottom, the tray with links to marine aquarium lighting articles and FAQs>
We have a canopy to house the lighting system.  We like the look of a finished top!
<Me too>
I like the light that a metal halide emits.  But I understand they emit a great deal of heat and will cost us a small fortune in electricity!
<Possibly>
  We were debating getting a power compact lighting system (2 x 96 watts plus 3 blue LEDs) or a 1 x 175 MH, 2 x 15w CF, 2 blue led.   Which option should we go with based on our wish list of clams, bubble coral and sun coral?
Thanks for the information!
Kimberly
<A few more factors to take into consideration... as you'll soon know... Enjoy the reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: 50 gallon Hagan Tank, Zoanthids, other classes of Cnid.s crammed into ten gallons of water   8/24/06
Thank you for your reply and the link. One last question I do have about your <...trouble...> comment is what part of the tank is trouble? Are there corals in there that should not be or is it the size of the tank for the corals? Thanks again for the help.
Mike
<Please see WWM re Cnidarian Compatibility, Zoanthids... a ten gallon tank with what you list is very likely to crash... suffer a massive die-off in a span of short time. Bob Fenner>

Leather corals in a nano   8/24/06
Hello crew,
   <Jennifer>
  I'm sorry to bother you with this question, but I've been getting mixed answers everywhere else I turn. I know I need to get rid of something in my tank, but I'm just not sure what, and what I can house safely. Please know that I have read your sections on nano stocking and also all of the articles on Alcyoniids.
<Good>
So here goes....I have a 12 gallon with 12 lbs of live rock. Cleanup crew consists of some blue legged hermit crabs and some reef-safe snails (can't remember what kind they are). I have an ocellaris and a seahorse. I also have a small frag of star polyps attached to some of my rocks and a couple of small bunches of Caulerpa. Now for the part you're going to shake your head at. I have a toadstool and also a Sinularia.
<As long as they're small, you're diligent re regular maintenance...>
Everything in my aquarium seems happy and healthy. My temp is at 78, sg 1.024, ammonia and nitrites are 0, nitrates are 5ppm. Calcium is around 450, and iodine is around .06. My pH is 8.4, and alk is at 10. I have PC lighting with 4.5 watts per
gallon. I do 20% water changes twice a week.  My leathers have those feathery hydroids that live in/on them,
<Hard on your fishes>
and that is my main concern. With my tank being so small, when these hydroids extend they will pretty much spread across my whole aquarium. I've seen my clown fish get stung by one of them once. I also know allelopathy (spelling?) could be an issue down the road.
<Is>
My LFS said I would be fine as long as none of my corals were touching each other.
<Mmm, no... still can/do "touch" chemically>
I'm running activated carbon through my filter and also a PolyFilter all of the time. I've tried manually removing the hydroids, but they either just keep coming back, or I'm not successful at removing the entire thing in the first place. The toadstool has numerous hydroids, the Sinularia has 2 that I've seen. Do I need to get rid of the toadstool and the Sinularia, or can I just get rid of the toadstool and keep the Sinularia.
<Up to you...>
My seahorse does like to hitch onto the corals sometimes. Is that bad for them?
<If not excessive...>
I don't want my tank
to be bare looking, but I also want to do what's best for it. If I have to get rid of both of my corals, can I get some zoanthid frags to cover the rocks and spruce it up a bit, or will they eventually wreak chemical warfare also?
<I would not house Zoanthids in a system with fishes as this>
I don't want my tank to be packed full. I just want it to have a little bit of color and beauty with smart choices. Any suggestions please?
<To keep on doing as you are... with a mind to having frag the Soft Corals in time... removal of the hydroids/efforts>
Thanks for all your time and knowledge that you put into this site. I have found many answers to my questions just by reading your archives.
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Can gods make tanks that are too small to illuminate Anemones properly?   8/23/06
Hi
<Hello>
    My name is Trevor and I was wondering how much lighting I need for a 5 gallon 10 in. high minibow tank. I will have a bulb tipped sea anemone in it.
<Not for long likely...>
  I'm pretty sure the 15 watt bulb that comes with it is not enough.  Please respond as soon as possible
<Very hard to keep such a small marine system stable "enough" Trevor... particularly for animals such as Anemones. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and the linked files above. Trying to apply sufficient light/ing here will create heat/temperature vacillations that will... Bob Fenner>

Nano- No-No? Centropyge In a small Tank?   8/14/06
Hi Bob (and WWM Crew),
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Like most, long time reader, first time poster.
Couple of questions I was hoping to get answered in the one mail :-)
<Sure...no extra charge!>
I am trying to decide on the suitability of dwarf angels in "nano" tanks. There are a many different opinions but I have found consistent quality advice from WWM that has helped me.  Id like to run over relevant specs to see what you think as far as suitability.  I have a 75 ltr (~16gl) (54cm H x
50cm Lx 35cmW). I have a sump which has a refugium with a 5-6" sand bed it contains appx 15-20ltrs more of water.  My sump also has a Tunze nano skimmer (model 9003).  I have approximately 10-15kg of live rock.  I was wondering if the tank has the capacity to house a dwarf angel most likely a Flame/Cherub/Coral Beauty as they are readily available in Australia.   
<well...I have to be honest. I think that nano-tanks can be great systems, if managed carefully (and it sounds like yours is!). However, I'd be really hesitant to recommend a Centropyge in such a small system for a few reasons. First, they do need some "territory". Second, they can become highly aggressive towards other fishes in a small tank. Also, all of these guys might simply outgrow the tank, having a greater need for physical space than their diminutive size suggests. I would not keep a Dwarf Angel in anything less than a 40 gallon tank, and then only one of the really "small models", like the aforementioned Cherub or maybe C. fisheri.>
Currently the tank has xenia/fluffy corallimorph/small hammer/zoo's. I have a green BTA which is host to 2x clowns.
<Ohh...then I would not even consider the Centropyge.>
I try to get the bristleworms that are relatively large in size out of the tank when I can.  I check periodically in the middle of the night for signs of them, and most of the time there usually isn't much night time activity of the worms.  They seem to be most active when I feed the clowns.  I was wondering if there is a long term concern, and a drastic need to eradicate
them from my tank as it is relatively small.  
<I'm not overly concerned about them, unless you see obvious signs of damage to your inverts. I see them as more beneficial than detrimental, myself. Do keep them in check if you notice problems.>
Cheers for any advice you can provide I know my questions are broad :-)
Mark.
<No problem, Mark. You sound like you're really on top of things in your tank! I would definitely avoid the Centropyge, but keep doing what you're doing otherwise! Much continued success to you! Regards, Scott F.>

Goby Symbiosis and LPS... nano stkg., Trachyphyllia sys.   8/13/06
Hey, guys. I've got a question about shrimp-goby pairs and LPS corals.  I am planning a nano-reef in a 12 gallon NanoCube.  I'm thinking of keeping a Randall's Shrimp Goby and a pistol shrimp (tiger, if I can find one) and a firefish (maybe, not decided yet) in as the non-coral inhabitants.  LPS corals interest me, especially Trachyphyllia and the "Closed Brains" of the Favia and Favites genus, especially the so-called "pineapple brains." I know the Trachyphyllia need to stay on the substrate, but I'm worried about the shrimp's digging covering up the Trachyphyllia. Do they have the ability to shed sediment?
<To some extent, yes... but I would "mount" (set upon) the Trachyphyllia on a short (substrate depth) section of cut PVC pipe to elevate it.>
Also, I still can't figure out whether the "Closed Brains" should be placed on the rocks or the substrate...
<Faviids are almost always found on the latter in the wild...>
If on the sand, would they be able to shed the sand from the digging shrimp?  Thanks for the help.
<Do be careful re nanos period... not stable... on average all crash more than once a year... Bob Fenner>

Stocking Small, But Thinking Big!   8/2/06
Hello WWM Crew:
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I have a 46 gallon tank which has 50 pounds of live rock. As far as equipment goes it has a Remora (h o t) skimmer, a Magnum 350 canister which I run carbon on it and change weekly with my 10% water change and 2 power heads for circulation.
<Sounds great to me!>
The specs. are ammonia 0, nitrate 0 and nitrite 0. Sg. 1.022 ph. 8.3 and temperature 80. For livestock, I have 1- Royal Gramma 1-Cleaner Shrimp 1-Peppermint Shrimp 2-Snails and  3- small Hermit Crabs. The tank has been running for 6 months and the Gramma has been in the tank for the last 2 months. My question is could I add 3-Blue Reef Chromis? And to finish off my stocking maybe a small peaceful Wrasse a few months down the line?
<The three Chromis would be about it, in my opinion. I suppose that you could keep a small Halichoeres species wrasse, but I'd be cautious about that addition. Even though your tank is 46 gallons, the capacity when filled with rock and sand is quite a bit less, so do consider that when stocking.>
Any suggestions would be of great help. You have helped me in the past and look forward to your words of wisdom on this occasion as well. Thank you, Mike.
<Thanks for the kind words, Mike. As an alternative, you might want to consider 2 or three small (like 1 1/2") Gobies (like a Gobiodon species), and then maybe a small wrasse. Just keep a really conservative approach when stocking, and you'll be fine! Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>