FAQs on Anampses Wrasses
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Related FAQs: Anampses Wrasses
1, Anampses 2, & FAQs
on: Anampses Identification,
Anampses Behavior, Anampses Compatibility, Anampses Selection, Anampses Systems, Anampses Feeding, Anampses Reproduction, Wrasses, Wrasse Selection, Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse
Wrasses losing balance, dying -
First of all, thank you for the awesome site you have been running, the
information available on WWM recently helped me a lot in setting up a
QT and treating successfully for Crypt. We (my brother and I)
have been keeping marines for around five years, and we learnt numerous
lessons in those years (most importantly I suppose the use of a
QT). We have a bit of a problem at the moment with new fish we
bought over the weekend. We use the metric system and measure
temperature in Celsius, so apologies upfront for the cm's, liters
and C's I am going to use.
The fish are going into two separate tanks, one a 80cm cube and the
other a 45cm nano (hence the duplication in fish bought). We stay
in Johannesburg, South Africa, and there are only a handful of
reputable fish stores around.
We went to one this weekend and bought the following:
2x Yellow tail Tamarin wrasses (Anampses meleagrides, around
2x Midas Blennies (Ecsenius Midas, around 6cm) and a Leopard Wrasse
(Macropharyngodon bipartitus bipartitus, around 4cm).
We do realize that the wrasses are not the easiest to keep/feed,
but all 3 of them ate frozen food in the shop tanks and have kept
a Leopard wrasse successfully in the past on frozen Mysis until he
decided to jump out of the tank a few months down the line.
We set up a 45 liter (12 Gallon) quarantine tank at home the night
before we went to buy the fish with freshly made up (with Seachem
Reefsalt) seawater with salinity at 1.023 (measured with refractometer)
and temperature at 24C. Once the salt was fully dissolved and
salinity/temperature correct, we added a HOB filter with bioballs and
sponge. This HOB filter has been running continuously for the
last 3 months as is (bar addition/removal of Cuprisorb) in a different
3ft tank that we used (successfully without any losses) as a quarantine
for all my fish from the DT that developed Crypt due to a careless new
addition (it was treated with Cupramine). The decorations are 3 coffee
cups and 2 pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe (all of which was used before in a
different QT). It is also bare bottom. I added a Seio M820
for extra flow. I also added (and I am still adding) Seachem
Now that the background has been given, back to the problem. We
acclimatized the fish for an hour on Saturday morning before putting
them into the QT (no water from the LFS was transferred to QT).
We did this by throwing a quarter cup of aquarium water or so into the
bags with the fish every 5 minutes or so until the hour was up (we
moved house a week or two ago, and couldn't find the airline tubing
to drip the fish in). We stay about 20 minutes from the LFS where
we purchased the fish. Saturday early evening I added a small
amount of flakes and a quarter block of frozen Mysis (as the filter has
been cycled and ran with about 12 biggish fish for the last 3 months, I
didn't think it would give any water quality issues).
The Tamarin's both went for the flakes as well as the Mysis, and
the Leopard wrasse ate a few frozen Mysis bits. A good sign I
Sunday morning I got up to find the one Tamarin (bigger one of the two)
hiding in the PVC pipe, all the other fish seeming fine and swimming
around (Midas blennies' heads poking out of the other PVC pipes,
normal behaviour). The Tamarin eventually came out, but he seemed
to have a problem with his balance, and kept on falling over and
staying on the bottom of the tank. His breathing was also
accelerated. Sunday afternoon I got to the tank at around 17h00,
and the one Tamarin was dead. I fed the fish later that evening, the
other fish all ate at least frozen Mysis (the Midas Blennies at pellets
quite feverishly). This morning I got to the tank at around 7h00,
and found the leopard wrasse also not able to stay upright and also
breathing heavily. The other Tamarin and Midas Blennies still
seemed ok. When I look closely, I can see white/frayed
patches on the pectoral fins of the Leopard Wrasse. Not Crypt
spots, more uneven patches.
Now I have searched on the internet for the problem, and the only thing
I can find that matches the symptoms is Ichthyophonus internal
When I think of it I remember all the wrasses having open mouths
that does not seem to close (another early sign for Ichthyophonus from
what I have read). Apparently no known cure from what I can
read. Any idea how common this disease is in marine fish?
<Not very common...>
Or is there something else that I am missing?
<Likely "just" capture, handling damage/stress w/ these
small, touchy wrasses>
Any cure that I might not have found on the internet? Also,
if it is this disease, and let's say the Midas Blennies show now
<? no?> symptoms after a month in the qt, how can I prevent this
from going into the main tank when I eventually transfer
<I would not be concerned>
The lfs in question apparently treats all their fish with Metronidazole
and a low-ish dose of Cupramine (0.25 ppm). I have a number of
wrasses in the main tank (2 locally caught Indian Ocean bird wrasses,
locally caught Cut Ribbon wrasse and a Cleaner Wrasse (I've had him
for over a year and eats anything before someone asks)), so don't
want the disease spreading to the main tank.
<Again, I would not worry re... the likelihood of transference,
given the stated circumstances, is very low>
Thank you for the help.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Wrasses losing balance, dying - Ichthyophonus?
Thank you very much! Unfortunately the Leopard wrasse didn't
survive the night. The Tamarin and Midas Blennies still seem
healthy and all 3 of them ate this morning.
Thanks for the quick response!
<Certainly welcome. BobF>