Halichoeres chloropterus acclimation/survival... Labrid Sel...   8/24/07
I wanted to ask for some input on maximizing the survival of a Green Coris wrasse, Halichoeres chloropterus. I've tried twice now to get one: the first was mail-order and dead when I opened the box. The second, a LFS got for me 2 days ago. They left it in the shipping bag, and I picked it up about 3-4 hours after they had gotten it from the airport. I drip acclimated it into my QT over about 2 hours, and it seemed to be fine the first evening. But all day yesterday, the fish did not look good, and by evening, I knew it was dying. It seemed lethargic and weak. No skin lesions of any kind, not staying at the top of the water, but breathing more labored than it should and lying on the bottom, having to constantly right itself from listing.
<Mmmm>
My QT currently has a carpenter's wrasse, which I acquired about 1 week ago, and it appeared normal the entire time and still does. The water never showed any ammonia or nitrite, but I added some Prime in case my test kit was off. I thought maybe it was from cyanide or something, so I dipped the fish in methylene blue (in salt water) for 4 minutes, and added an air stone to the tank to maximize oxygen saturation. It was to no avail, as the fish seemed to progressively have trouble breathing and finally died late last night.
<Too much stress... better to place such "touchy" species, genera in their own darkened isolation system and leave them alone for a week or two...>
The LFS is going to order another one, and I would like to ensure another one isn't killed. Any ideas on why the first would have died, and ways to minimize the risk again would be greatly appreciated! I've kept marine fish for 3 years now, and have a lot of fish and corals in 3 tanks, so the problem isn't purely my inexperience; I just am stumped as to what would have led to the 2nd fish's demise in 1 day like that, leaving the other unaffected.
Thanks for your help and a greatly informative site.
Scott
<Well... these Labrids are on the "skittish" side and quite a few initial losses occur... as you've experienced. Again, really doing very little with them other than careful flushing of metabolites through acclimation... and leaving let be is a very good idea. Bob Fenner>

Re: Stocking Suggestions for the 34g Red Sea Max... Flasher wrasse sys.  – 07/26/07
Affect the wrasse psychologically? Please elaborate if possible. Thank you.
<The labrids of this (and most genera) genus are accustomed to a quite large lek territory... where they "dance", display... and can get away from potential predators... RMF>

Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? – 07/19/07
Hello.
<<Hi Pam!>>
Are any wrasses less likely to jump than others?
<<Most all the small ornamental species offered/used in the trade have varying tendencies re.. in my experience>>
I have an open tank, and I know most wrasses are jumpers, but I thought if they were put in with all peaceful fish, that they may not jump.
<<This does help, but it is not just the other fishes that can/will cause a wrasse (any “jumper” species) to head for the open air. At one time I had a couple small groups of Flasher Wrasse species that would go “nuts” if the lights on the tank were to suddenly “black out” as from a power surge/outage...sounded like pinballs pinging around in the light hood!>>
I have an Elos tank, and don't want to cover it with Eggcrate or screen.
<<Neat!...and understood>>
The beauty of the tank, is that it's rimless and open.
<<Yes...very nice>>
My fish are all very peaceful. Right now I have a Pygmy Possum Wrasse, a Purple Firefish and a Tailspot Blenny. I really wanted to add a Laboutei, but don't want to be irresponsible if it's definitely going to leap out of the tank and die.
<<VERY likely with this species...and is the same pretty much with all the Flasher and Fairy Wrasse species. I have experienced, as well as very often hear of these fishes demise from leaping out an “uncovered” system>>
I know Firefish can be jumpers, but my Firefish never goes beyond the bottom half of the tank, and if he gets spooked, he dives into the rock...never up. I have two good size caves in my rock and lots of crevices and swim-throughs.
<<All good, though many of the wrasses tend to be more active in the upper-third of the water column>>
So..... should I definitely nix the idea of the Laboutei?
<<Logic would seem to dictate this...>>
Are any other bright wrasses less likely to jump?
<<Still no guarantee it won’t end up on the floor, but the smaller Halichoeres species are quite colorful and would be “less likely” than the Laboutei to sail out of your tank...in my opinion. H. Chrysus is a premier aquarium species...and if you want something a bit less monochromatic, take a look at H. ornatissimus>>
Thank you! Pam
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? - 07/20/07
Thanks Eric.
<<Quite welcome, Pam>>
Ok, I'll take your advice and keep away from the Mystery Wrasses.
<<I think you mean Flasher/Fairy Wrasses?...Probably for the best>>
I took a look at the two wrasses you mentioned.
<<Okay?>>
I really like the ornatissimus.
<<A gorgeous fish indeed>>
I also was looking at the Five-barred Mystery Wrasse.
<<Another beauty...love that “expression”>>
That's one of the only wrasses that LiveAquaria doesn't mention as a jumper.
<<Am in disagreement>>
Do you know if they are jumpers or not?
<<I have known them to jump, yes...though “possibly” less prone than the previous mentioned species due to their tendency to stay/hide lower in the water column. And please do understand, I have seen Halichoeres spp jump as well...I just think these are the better “gamble” re >>
Thanks, Pam
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

R2: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? - 07/20/07
Whoops...you're right Eric.
<<Hiya Pam!>>
I meant I'd keep away from Fairy Wrasses.
<<Ah yes, so I thought>>
One more question for you.
<<Okey-dokey>>
LiveAquaria mentions that a Copperband Butterfly needs a 50g tank or larger, and another site mentions 30g, but I believe they can get up to 8".
<<In the wild, yes…and maybe a bit larger even>>
Aren't they way too big for a 50g?
<<In my opinion, yes… Not so much because of the water volume as these fishes are not quite so active as say the Tangs, but rather the limits in “real estate” prohibit keeping this fish in such smallish systems. Chelmon rostratus is often a problematic feeder, having a larger system (100g+) with ample live rock/substrate and the associated infauna (along with an in-line refugium to help sustain populations) will go a long way towards sustaining this fish while it is being trained to other foods, as well as continuous contribution to the long-term health of this species>>
Thanks. Pam
<<Cheers, EricR>>

A Wrasse Impasse? (Choosing Another Wrasse)  – 07/03/07
I have a 135 gallon reef tank with a McCosker Flasher Wrasse male and female along with an Exquisite Fairy Wrasse. Other occupants include a Blue Tang, Yellow Tang,
Flame Angel, Diamond Goby, Bluespot Jawfish and 2 true Percula Clownfish. I really like the Flasher and Fairy Wrasses and would like to add one or two more without upsetting any of the other inhabitants. The ones I am thinking about are the Redhead Solar Wrasse, Radiant Wrasse, Melanurus Wrasse, Mystery Wrasse or a Linespot Flasher Wrasse. Which of these would be best suited to my tank as far as compatibility and hardiness?
Jeff Storey
<Well, Jeff, to a certain extent, any of them would work at some point. The Melanurus Wrasse, being a Halichoeres species, will typically occupy a different niche within the aquarium. Although it's a fantastic fish, this Wrasse can occasionally develop an "attitude" towards other fishes. Mine was a wonderful fish with a great personality. The Mystery Wrasse is just a little too timid for the mix of fishes that you have, IMO. A beautiful fish, but tends to be really slow to acclimate to captive life. If you want to add a Flasher or Fairy Wrasse into the mix, it's important to make sure that the fish that you're adding are larger than those in the mix already. This will assure a reasonable chance at keeping things peaceful. Choose your specimens carefully, quarantine them, and acclimate them carefully. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Wrasse for a Bare-Bottom Tank? - 04/20/07
Hello all!
<<Cheers Fred!>>
I write in today for some advice on a wrasse.
<<Okey-dokey>>
I used to have a Radiant Wrasse (Halichoeres iridis) which was easily my favorite fish of all time.
<<Ah yes, a gorgeous fish>>
Tons of personality, great "sheriff" for my reef, constantly on the lookout for pests of all types and what great color.
<<Indeed...traits indicative of this genus as a whole I think>>
Unfortunately Radiant Wrasse need sand so I was unable to move him into my new BB tank.
<<Mmm, ok...not a fan of bare-bottom tanks myself>>
I gave him to a friend with a large DSB and he is quite happy there.
<<No doubt>>
In my current 90 gallon BB tank I would love to have a wrasse or two but I know a Radiant would be horribly miserable in a BB tank.
<<Agreed...as would all the species of this genus>>
Are there any reef safe wrasse that would be happy in my tank?
<<A few, yes...though finding one to match the color/brilliance of H. iridis may not be possible.  There are a few species that sleep in crevices/caves in the rock by "spinning" a cocoon of mucus.  One such species is Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus, the Red Margin Wrasse.  I have found this wrasse to be quite tolerant of other fishes (much like the Halichoeres species), eats well, is active, and attractive to boot.  A purposeful keyword search of the Net will likely turn up other choices too>>
What would you recommend that is comparable to the radiant in terms of personality, color and ability to defend the reef from the evils of hitchhikers?
<<I don't think it likely you'll find anything that meets "all" these requirements as well as the Halichoeres species (in other words, you have been spoiled [grin]), but do look in to/research the fairy and flasher wrasses.  These are beautiful fishes and there may be a few that come close to meeting your "requirements" (they are considered chronic "jumpers"...though no more than the Halichoeres species in my opinion/experience)>>
Thanks for the library of information, easily the best on the net!<<Quite welcome...is a collaborative effort>>
Fred
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

P. mccoskeri For a Small Reef? (Oh Yes!) - 03/02/07
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I would like to know if my 40 breeder tank would work for a male
Paracheilinus mccoskeri Wrasse?
<<Very neat little fish...yes it would>>
My total water volume is 65 gallons.  I have a 25 gallon sump/refugium.  The male I would like is only 2in. I know, of course, it will eventually grow.
<<Mmm...but not much more in my experience (to about 3~31/2 inches)>>
I will upgrade my system in the future.  Just wanted your thoughts on this.
<<P. mccoskeri is an excellent little wrasse for reef systems.  Very peaceable (conspecifics aside), generally very hardy, and quite attractive too!>>
I have a nice stable reef right now.  66 pounds of LR/ not all in the main display, but a good amount for hiding, DSB, BM150 skimmer, LPS, Refugium, closed-loop with a Sequence snapper.
<<Sounds very nice>>
I haven't been able to find someone that asked this question about this particular Wrasse.  Please let me know.
<<I think I just did [grin]>>
I currently have no other fish.  I'm looking to get some and this one looked great and sounded like it has great personality, plus it's Gorgeous.
<<Indeed>>
Thank you.
Gina
<<A pleasure to share.  EricR>>

Wrasse Addition to Semi-Nano Aquaria   3/1/07
Hi
<Hello.>
My name is Joe and I currently have a 3 months old saltwater aquarium that is 36 gallons, has a bunch of snails and hermits,
<How much is a bunch?>
40 lbs of live rock, a Citrinus Clown Goby, and a flame Angelfish.
<Tank is on the small side for a centropyge.>
I was wondering if you had a suggestion for a type of wrasses to add to my aquarium. I am looking for  something that will fit stocking wise, and aggression wise between the goby and  angel. I know the angel may give him a hard time though, but was thinking wrasse  are aggressive and tough enough to handle. Particularly one of the smaller sized ones that will fit in my tank, and will be a different coloration from the goby and angel if possible, but that is not primary. I like the four and six line   wrasse fish, but never see the four or twelve line wrasse I think they call it  around in stores.
<The only wrasses I would find suitable would be a smaller member of the Pseudocheilinus genus (which the sixline is) or possibly a member of the Wetmorella genus (possum wrasse).>
Also in the future I will be adding a 10g refugium to the side  of the tank, and corals when my lighting upgrades.
<Sounds good.>
If you have suggestions or  any comments it would be appreciated.
<Just to stay diligent and keep reading, Adam J.>

Wrasse selection....with dragonet in tank   2/14/07
Dear WWMedia,
I am very interested in adding a wrasse, but need some info and advice. I have room for a Mandarin goby and a Flasher/Fairy wrasse or two smaller wrasses. Leaning towards Mandarin w/wrasse. I have peaceful FOWLR system with shrimp. Need reef safe fish. Looking for a blue, green (or yellow) wrasse as I have plenty of oranges and reds in the tank currently.
<I don't recommend the combination of a dragonet and a wrasse in this size tank...competition issues when it comes to the dragonets diet...>
We love color.
<Other routes to satisfy this....>
I don't want to nuts as I saw the Lineatus over $250, but am willing to spend more than unusual for the right fish. We like the Scott's Fairy Wrasse, but know they come in different shades depending on origin. How do you feel about keeping one SFW and still maintaining decent color? Any assistance or info you think I need would be appreciated.
<Am willing to give advice re: the wrasse but would like you to see my above comment about the mandarin/dragonet beforehand.>
Thanks and have a good day. Steve
<Adam J.>

Which Wonderful Wrasse? Red Coris, Australian Harlequin Tusk and Paddlefin Wrasse?  - 1/22/07
Hi there!
<Hello Gary, Mich with you today.>
I've been in the  process of trying to decide which wrasse to add to add to my 55 gal. FOWLR setup.  The only current occupant is a 4" porcupine puffer.   
<OK.>
The 3 candidates under consideration are: Red Coris, Australian Harlequin Tusk and Paddlefin wrasse.  
<All beautiful fish.>
The Red Coris only recently became a candidate after I heard that this was Bob Fenner's favorite wrasse.  It does have a lot going for it according to Bob.  Its gorgeous, has a great personality and is highly intelligent.  Not bad.  
<Yes, a beauty!>
How does the Paddlefin and Aussie Tusk stack up with the Red Coris as far as looks, personality, intelligence and hardiness?
<Different issues...
The Red Coris (Coris gaimard) gets pretty big, 13.7 inches, and needs a good deal of room to swim, at least a 100 gallon tank, and requires a 2-4 inch sand bed to bury itself in to sleep at night.    
Harlequin Tuskfish (Choerodon fasciatus) reaches a max of 9.8 inches and may do OK in the long term in your 55 gallon tank.
The Paddlefin Wrasse (Thalassoma lucasanum) stay pretty small, 4-6 inches max.  They also need swimming room, but do not require a sandbed to sleep.  They sleep and when scared, hide in the rock work.    
You obviously already read the first article, but there is more on  each of these fish on the website.  Please help yourself to the info...   
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/coris/gaimard.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/choerodon/faciata.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/thalassoma.htm
I don't have much info on the Paddlefin.  I've seen one at my LFS and it was quite a looker.  
<Yes, very colorful!>
How compatible would any of these be with my puffer?  
<In theory OK, depends on the individual fish.>
I would have to get a small or medium sized version of any of these wrasse since I only have a 55 gal. at this time.  I will be upgrading to at least a 150 in the next year which should accommodate these growing boys.  I do have a good sized sump and fuge and an excellent skimmer that should help out in the meantime.  Your insight and advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
<Hope this helps,  -Mich>
Gary

Re: Which Wonderful Wrasse? Red Coris, Australian Harlequin Tusk and Paddlefin Wrasse?  - 1/22/07
Which Wonderful Wrasse? Red Coris, Australian Harlequin Tusk and Paddlefin Wrasse?  Not the Red Coris with a Puffer.
Thanks for the quick response Mich.  
<Welcome!>
Just some quick follow up questions.  How hardy are the Red Coris and the Paddlefin?   
<Both are quite hardy.>
I understand that the Husk is quite hardy.  What is the minimum tank requirement for the Paddle?
I thought it was 50 gal.  
<This is appropriate.>
My tank is 4 ft. long.  
<This should be fine.>
In regards to the Red Coris, one concern I have is its rock flipping behavior.  Since I have LR I would be concerned about a rock being toppled over and cracking my tank.  What size rocks can this fish move?  I would guess this would only be smaller rock.  
<Yes.>
Thanks again!
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Gary
<PS.  Gary, I presume you are no longer considering the Coris Gaimard.  I just read the other query you sent, which I included below.  I do apologize for not thinking of this issue.>    
Hi there!
<Hey, Gary! JustinN with you today.>
Can you please confirm or refute the following statement.  It will go a long in deciding if a Red Coris wrasse would be compatible with my porcupine puffer.  Thanks!
<Ok>
"Any fish or animal ( including a Red Coris) that buries in the sand can inadvertently be bitten by a puffer. It is their natural feeding/hunting instinct to blow the sand at night and look for food. Many buried wrasses have fallen victim to a puffer's teeth".
<Confirmed, my friend. -JustinN>
Gary

Re: Which Wonderful Wrasse? Red Coris, Australian Harlequin Tusk and Paddlefin Wrasse?   1/27/07
Hi Mich,
<Hello again Gary!>
I'm going to take a chance, but I think the rewards are worth it.  
<I hope for all involved you are correct.>
   I think I'm going to get the Red Coris. I had some concern about keeping it with my Porc for the reasons which I had mentioned previously.  
<Yes.>
However, there are people who I've spoken with who have kept these 2 fish together with no problems.  
<I am not sure how large the risk of potential problems is with this combination, certainly there are many variables which will factor in the equation, but you are at least there is a risk.  Does your Porc blow the sand around at night?>
Is it true that I need to feed the red Coris 3-4 times?  
<Yes, these fish are grazer.>
Does it matter if I feed it more than once in the evenings when I get home from work?  
<Should be OK.>
How much time needs to be spaced between meals?  
<I would space it out as much as you can while the lights are on.>
Several hours or a couple of hours?  
Thanks!
<Welcome!  -Mich>

Yellow Candy Hogfish or Scott's Fairy Wrasse (7-26-06)
Hi WWM crew sorry for all the questions.
<Hi there you have Leslie in for the crew this morning. No worries, that’s what we are here for.>
I have a Ocellaris Clownfish( Amphiprion ocellaris) and a Fridmani Pseudochromis( Pseudochromis fridmani) which do you think would be better with these fish … a Yellow Candy Hogfish or a Scott's Fairy Wrasse?
<I am not exactly which Hogfish you are referring to I am going to take a guess that it’s the Bodianus bimaculatus… Twinspot or Yellow Hogfish. Have a look here to be sure we are talking about the same fish http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/bodianus/index.htm It’s the 4th fish listed. If they are not one in the same just be sure you have chosen a fish that is appropriately sized for your tank and tankmates. If they are on in the same I think either would be just fine, so go with whichever one suits your fancy. I personally really like the Scott’s Fairy Wrasse.>
Thanks for your fast reply and helping aquarists with their probelms.
<Your most welcome, Leslie>

Re: Yellow Candy Hogfish or Scott's Fairy Wrasse, cont. (7-26-06)
Yep I was talking about the Bodianus bimaculatus <Good guess, I guess> thanks for your fast reply. <Your very welcome>
I think I will get the Scott's Fairy Wrasse- Australia.
<Great choice, I think you will be pleased.
Best of luck to you and your new fish, Leslie.>

Her Wrasse is just too much for this tank   7/6/06
I have been reading all about wrasses on your site for some time now and   have thought that this would be a good fish to add to my tank.
<Mmm…well lets not be so broad, some are wholly inappropriate aquarium specimens (Napoleon) and some make long-lived and great pets (Six-Line).>
I have a 65 gallon reef tank that has a Regal Tang, Foxface,
<These two animals alone need upwards of 125 U.S. gallons at a conservative estimate…they should be removed soon.>
and Clownfish that school  together.  Which one of the wrasses would be best to add to this docile trio?
<I’m not so sure, I would consider this trio docile, the surgeon and the Rabbitfish are both territorial and voracious feeders and anemone-fish, especially larger females, can be quite ornery at times. Besides that at your tanks current stocking level I cannot recommend adding any specimen of fish at all, let alone a wrasse which are quite messy.>
I also have shrimp, clams, anemones, and of course, numerous corals  and polyps.  
<…>
There is sufficient live rock and bottom substrate for hiding  and I have two 14000k metal halide lights.
<Lighting isn’t an issue here…but space is.>
It is not fully covered, but  has a six inch top border in place.  I was looking at one from one of the  these genus:
Cirrhilabrus, Halichoeres, or Paracheilinus.  Your input is  greatly appreciated!
<Unfortunately just the above, once you fix the stocking predicament I will have some suggestions though.>
Lori
<A.J.>

Pass on This Wrasse? (Wrasse Selection)  11/9/05
Hello, 
<Hello there! Scott F. with you today.>
I would like to know if you can recommend the fairy wrasse Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura, or Ruby Head Wrasse. How hardy is this particular species?
<The hardiness of this, or any Fairy Wrasse species is subject to a number of factors. The most important single factor, IMO, is the capture and handling techniques that the fish received along the chain of control from reef to LFS. It's generally a deeper water fish, which means that there is greater trauma associated with its capture. From that point, careful acclimation, quarantine and feeding will enhance the chances for success with this fish.>
I have a 40 gallon tank with two percula clowns, so I doubt
that there will be an aggression problem.
<In my personal opinion, this fish would do better in a larger system, which affords more swimming area and the possibility of places to retreat if threatened. Also, greater environmental stability is a big factor in keeping these fishes, and larger tanks afford greater stability, in general.>
How easy is this particular fish to feed?
<No more difficult, or no more simple than any other Cirrhilabrus species, IMO>
Is there an easier fairy wrasse that you would recommend?
<I like the "Hawaiian flame Wrasse" (C. jordani). It's an attractive, easy-to-feed fish, in my experience, and seems to adapt well to captive life. However, it does get fairly large, and I wouldn't recommend one for your tank. Personally, I'd pass on most Fairy Wrasses in this sized aquarium, and opt for one of the smaller Halichoeres species, or even a "Sixline Wrasse", Pseudocheilinus hexataenia. Better suited for a smaller system, IMO.>
I have received great help from you guys before, and I look forward from hearing you again.
Thanks very much,
Joe Marano
<Glad to be here for you, Joe. Good luck on your choices. Regards, Scott F.> 

Wrasse selection...Umm no, and NO html, PLEASE!!! - 10/28/2005
Hello to all,
<Hi there.>
I hope you all are well.
<Fine, though I would rather not have to fix all of this HTML.> 
I have just a quick question: Are wrasses compatible with Niger triggerfish?
<Is your tank compatible with this triggerfish? Up to 18 inches in the wild.> 
Lets say a red leopard wrasse.
<Nope. If you mean Macropharyngodon geoffroy then really, really no.> 
Also do you know the adult size of this wrasse?
<I believe 4-6 inches, and very delicate.> 
Any suggestions would be great.
<No HTML, and lots of research re triggerfish care, compatibility, habitat; wrasse selection, compatibility, habitat. Good luck. - Josh> 

Bristle (Polychaete worms) Overpopulation - 10/24/05
Hello all! 
<Greetings!> 
It has been some time since we have spoken so hope you are all well and happy. 
<I am, thank you for asking.> 
I would first like to forever thank you , both for myself , and for the other millions of reef keepers/farmers that you so diligently assist. We would often be totally lost w/o the information you provide. 
<Thanks for the kind words.> 
Now , on to my problem. I have a very small, but trying to get bigger, reef farm. I have had an on-going trouble with one of my sets of growth tanks and I believe that I have finally discovered the culprits...Bristle worms. I understand that normally they are beneficial and not to be concerned with , but my tanks are literally churning with them. If you feed at all the entire bottom comes to life . You can't even see the substrate. 
<Yes that would definitely define an overpopulation.> 
I am certain that I have found what is happening to my livestock! 
<Well an over population of bristles usually points toward a nutrient problem, its possible your livestock could be suffering from the nutrients and not the bristles. Though an overpopulation of these creatures can lead to undesired feeding behaviors including attacking sessile inverts.> 
<<Not just nutrient problem per se, but overpopulation of bristles means there is a great deal of excess detritus.  Being detritivores they are doing you a favor.  MH>>
In these particular tanks I am raising both Clowns, with their corresponding Anemone, and multiple forms of coral, trying to stay diversified. 
<Ok.> 
I have tried to do all my parasite control naturally. I have taken this approach since the beginning of this undertaking. Tired of reefs being **destroyed**...
<For posting purposes I changed that word. While I do agree some collectors are rather irresponsible in their practices of wild collection many more are conscientious and collect without much impact or damage to the area. Though you are right in the fact the aquacultured specimens are preferred.> 
for our enjoyment and I am hoping to put some back someday. 
<A good idea but you can do more damage to the ocean by introducing unknown pathogens, please don’t release specimens back into the wild.> 
We must all do our part. I have been reading a lot about Wrasses on the site and am now thoroughly confused as to which I should try. I am tending towards either a Yellow Fin or a Sixline. Any recommendations. 
<I would go with the sixline wrasse but if you have a nutrient problem adding more fish may not be a good idea. Look into some sort of further nutrient control whether it be a refugium or extra water changes, larger protein skimmer…> 
I have lost untold dollars to these pests . Both in corals and in Anemones, and need to get them under control within reason. I don't want to destroy my ecosystem either. What are your recommendations in this matter? 
<See above.> 
I have even tried to fashion traps to assist in their removal. Please help!
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bristlewrmfaqs.htm , Adam J.>  

Wrestling With A Wrasse!  9/22/05
I am considering getting a Radiant Wrasse to combat a problem with the Montipora nudibranchs.  I've heard many reports of great success with these wrasses, and they are gorgeous fish.
<Yes they are! I love Halichoeres species, and the H. iridis is one of my very favorites! They are a bit touchy, however, and I have known several people who have not been as lucky as I while acclimating them. Take it really slow and be sure to quarantine them carefully.>
Only thing is, I worry about my cleaner shrimp (2) and my jumbo Tongan Nassarius snails in particular, and the other snails and hermit crabs in general.  What is your experience with these fish and their behavior towards these animals?  Thanks, Joel
<Well, Joel, these guys have relatively small mouths, but they can and do pick on small snails. In fact, I've had other Halichoeres wrasses (H. melanurus, in particular) that have taken an almost sadistic dislike of snails, literally bashing them out of their shells before dispatching them! Generally, these guys are well behaved, but smaller shrimp, fanworms, and snails are potential snack items if the fish feels so inclined! I certainly feel that the potential risk is worth it for their utility and sheer beauty, but you'll have to make the final call. Good luck with this wonderful fish! Regards, Scott F.>

Stocking A Super Reef Tank (Cont'.)
Hi Scott,
I'm so excited!  Today I added 3 Canary Wrasses to the tank.
<Awesome! Great fish that can really add some color, personality, and excitement to a tank!>
The LFS ordered them in.  All ate at the store and were swimming out in the open.  Apparently 3 more were hiding in the sand.  I brought the outgoing ones home, gave them a 5 minute fresh water dip and put them into the tank.
The dip is good procedure, but do try quarantine next time...>
To my surprise, they all simply started swimming in the water column.  They never hid in the sand or the rocks.  So far, 5 hours
later, none of the fish seems bothered by the change.  The new wrasses are eating off the rock and ate some homemade fish food.  
<Great to hear. They really are a pretty perfect reef fish. At night, they may bury themselves in the substrate for protection, but they will typically remain out in the open all day.>
They're a beautiful addition and seem very gentle.  It was the perfect suggestion.
<I'm really glad you like them! They'll just become more and more attractive and outgoing as they settle in.>
Thank you!  Next fish is a Lyretail Anthias when a nice one shows up at the LFS.  Nancy
<Keep me posted, Nancy! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Controlling Pyramidellids 5/23/05
Hi whoever is there tonight, I have been doing some reading on keeping clams and a few aquarists suggest adding a six line wrasse to the tank to keep clams clear of parasites. 
<Six lines are about 50/50 for controlling pyramidellid snails. Other wrasses, including P. tetrataenia (four line), several Coris sp. and Halichoeres sp. are better but equally or more destructive as they grow larger.>
I previously had a six line and it killed all my cleaner shrimps. Would a neon goby be as effective in keeping clams parasite free? I am reluctant to re-introduce a six line wrasse into my tank. Thanks, Sharon 
<A neon goby would be useless for this purpose. Your six line sounds like a particularly destructive specimen. If you don't want to add another one, I would suggest aggressive and persistent manual removal of the snails from your clams. After a few weeks of carefully removing adults and egg masses, it is often possible to eradicate them. Best Regards. AdamC.> 

Wrasse Selection 4.3.05
Hi, I was wondering is the Green Wrasse - Halichoeres chloropterus safe to keep with a BTA and 2 clowns and also corals (if there is any corals to avoid when keeping this fish please inform me)
<Although every fish on the reef eats SOMETHING, a wrasse of this type is especially hard on reef aquaria. Only in the largest aquaria is it a decent combination. A fairy wrasse would be a much better choice. Good luck, Ryan> 

Halichoeres hoeveni vs. Halichoeres melanurus - Will the Real Wrasse Please Stand Up?
>I wanted to get information on the Halichoeres hoeveni. Is it reef safe? And what abut feeding requirements and how big will it get? And lastly temperament?
Yours,
Mark
>>Hello Mark, Marina this morning. It seems that a search using that name nets me a referral the Halichoeres melanurus. Once we get that far finding this fish on fishbase.org is pretty easy. To answer your question, in my experience most fishes of the Halichoeres genus are outgoing and won't be bullied around. However, this guy hits about 5" (12cm) in length, and is relatively small-mouthed, as it feeds on small invertebrates. Expect this fish to snack on the small stuff, and you'll need to treat it (re: feeding) as you would a mandarin dragonet. So, in general, yes, "reef-safe", though expect some snacking. A refugium or good supply of "pods" will be most helpful for this little fellow. Don't forget, now that you have the proper name of this species, please use our Google search to find more information on this fish. 

Filling a Tank Up. Wrasse selection mainly
Hi. First, thanks for the help in the past. I have questions about stocking. In my 72 gal (pH - 8.2, nitrite - 0, ammonia - 0, nitrate - 20ish, I am doing regular water changes) I have a 2ft Zebra Moray, Maroon Clown (3" hasn't grown in about a year - think he will?)
<Should... but maybe not in your circumstances... is there just the one? Will grow if there are two.>
and a new damsel (3" looks like a bluefin Paraglyphidodon mela I believe). Anyways, I would love to add a wrasse, but because of the huge variety I don't know what to choose! I would also like to add 3 cardinals (Pterapogon kauderni). Can my tank take this load?
<Yes... though the Moray... will get larger (about twice)... take up a good deal of the physiological space>
Also, what type of wrasse do you recommend. A medium sized peaceful/semi-aggressive would fit in great I think.
<Maybe a Cirrhilabrus species... or a Lined wrasse...>
I prefer fish that are easy to take care of and will take flakes, although I do feed my fish Mysis, krill, brine, Formula 1, and I'm sure I have some other frozen food in my freezer. The only thing is these can be messy. Also, right now I am feeding my eel (by long tongs for fish only use) squid, Mysis, and krill. What other meats should I add to his diet?
<These are crustacean eaters in the wild... should be offered crabs, shrimps...>
One of my LFS told me to feed him silversides, but I know they aren't good for him. Also how much (cube wise)? He will eat until he pops, so I try to limit his diet for the sake of water chemistry but I don't want to underfeed him. Thanks so much for your help.  -Alex
PS - A different LFS (Capitol Aquarium in Sacramento, CA) has 3 (1 male & 2 female) "long-term captive" ribbon eels. I believe they have been there for about a year, I just thought that was cool!
<This is a very neat fish store... have been there many times over many years... VERY big clown loaches... Have friends in the area whose moms worked there... a ways back. Bob Fenner> 

Juvenile purple wrasses?
Bob,
<Lee>
I bought 3 juvenile purple wrasses, at my local wholesalers. Thinking they were Hawaiian cleaner wrasses.
<?>
I am now worried because I have 12 cleaner shrimps in my 240 gallon tank. I pray that these wrasses will not grow up and eat my shrimps. What do you think? Also do you know the scientific names of these wrasses?? Thanks again.  Lee
<Umm, not familiar with the common name "purple wrasses"... neither is fishbase.org... But, a few things to impart... I would NOT put three Labroides spp. wrasses in this size system... I would definitely research all purchases ahead of acquisition... and I WOULD definitely quarantine all new livestock... You're playing the petfish equivalent of Russian Roulette my friend. Bob Fenner>

The Mean Green Wrasse? (Halichoeres chloropterus)
Hi, I have a Green Wrasse (Halichoeres chloropterus) and was wondering if the are compatible with corals and anemones ETC???? Thanks! Ryan
<Hi Ryan. I'm a huge fan of Halichoeres species wrasses, and have kept many of them over the years. The H. chloropterus is one of the larger members of the family, and is every bit as compatible with corals as the others, IMO. Like most Halichoeres species, they will decimate any tubeworms, snails, feather dusters, and other small crustaceans that live in your system. They are not aggressive fishes, for the most part, but they can become "cantankerous" once they become acclimated to their new home. They have great personalities, but can become a bit of a behavioral problem in a smaller tank, or one that houses smaller fishes. All in all, I think that this is a great fish if you can accept their personality traits. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

- Six Line, Eight Line, Who's Counting? -
Hi crew,
<Hi.>
A few weeks ago, I bought what was supposed to be a 6-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) from my LFS.  After closer observation and a quick review at fishbase.org, it appears that this fish was actually an 8-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia).  Unfortunately, the wrasse died mysteriously after 2 week in my QT so I was never able to see it swim in my 180g reef tank.  Bob suggested a shorter QT period for wrasses (with a FW dip) in one of my previous emails so I will try this next time.
My questions now are:
1.  Are there advantages/disadvantages of an 8-line wrasse vs. 6-line?  (I have read several WWM postings about aggressive 8-lie wrasses, but 6-line wrasse comments seem to be generally positive). <Not really... they both fill a very similar niche. Personally, I've found sixline wrasses to be just as pugnacious as eightlines... typically once they've been in the tank for a while. Either way, with some larger fish around they tend to stay in line, pardon the terrible pun.>
2. I would also like to add a flasher wrasse, such as a Paracheilinus carpenteri and a canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus).  Would these wrasses live peacefully with a 6-line or 8-line wrasse? <I think so, sure. I have a mix of wrasses in my tank... they tend not to bother each other, although my Tuskfish does have its grumpy moments and chases the fairy and mystery wrasses around, nothing ever results from it [no damage].> (I also have a mixture of several tangs, a pair of maroon clowns, Banggai cardinals, mandarin and firefish - all established for nearly 2 years).
3.  Since carpenter wrasses are difficult to find, could you recommend a similar flasher wrasse that would live peacefully in my tank? <Seems to me that these aren't all that hard to find... when working in a fish store in San Diego, we used to get these in pretty regularly and on demand. Depending on where you live, you may end up having to use The Marine Center or similarly well connected online supplier.>
4.  Since the QT period should be cut short, how much QT time is adequate to catch any problems yet not over-stress the fish? <With these fish, you'd almost do best to just give them a pH-adjusted, freshwater dip and put them directly in the display. If you do quarantine, a week should do... would give the fish time to relax, not be hassled by other fish/competition.> Is iodine helpful in a dip for fish or is this only useful for corals? <Really best left to the corals.> I typically use Methylene blue for freshwater fish dips but, considering this reduced QT period, I am not sure is this is adequate. <The Methylene blue doesn't really provide much in the way of direct therapy in a dip - it's dark color and oxygenating properties help calm the fish, but you could just as easily go without this additive. A good long dip - five minutes plus should do the trick.>
As always, thank you for taking the time to help all of us with our questions -  There is a wealth of invaluable information on wetwebmedia.com!
<Cheers, J -- >

Anampses: inappropriate fish for community tanks 12/16/04
Howdy crew!
<howdy, dear :)>
This is my first time writing to you, so thank you in advance for your time :o)
<always welcome>
First, let me give you the tank info:
tank size = 100g
NH3/NH4 = 0
NO2 = 0
NO3 = 0
Calcium = 450
<please go easy on Calcium here... no need to push the high end of the envelope. No higher than 450 please>
Alk = 10 DKH
sg = 1.024
temp = 81.5 (having some temp issue (fluctuation) due to new return pump and
new skimmer pump)
10 - 20% water change weekly
live rock 55lbs and adding more from holding tank
new AquaC EV180
sump for mechanical filtration w/ bioballs (will remove once more live rock is in) Magnum 350 deluxe canister for mechanical/carbon filtration sea swirl on return pump and swivel powerhead for extra movement Inhabitants = 1 ocellaris (Oscar), 1 green Chromis (Lil' Dude), 1 skunk cleaner shrimp (Seymour), about 5 each of astrea snails and blue legged hermits, 2 bumble bee snails,
<you do know that these bumble bee snails eat no algae? They do not have the mouthparts for it. They are carnivores and a burden on the life forms in your live sand bed like the blue leg hermits. Not great choices>
1 pipe organ (Bach),
<hmmm.... a challenging coral :(>
and lastly (but not least) Eleanor our new Red Tailed Tamarin (a week and a half new).
<Arghhhh... the last entry is patently and categorically an inappropriate fish for any marine community tank. Few aquarists can keep these fishes alive for more than 2 years. In a community tank, I don't think yours will even live to see a year if even 6 months :(>
I have read both internet information and book info on this species, and I personally would never have chosen this fish, but my husband wanted this fish more than anything, so there it is.  
<I am fairly certain he will watch it slowly starve to death too. Not chastising you per se... but it is what it is. And do remind hubby if he truly admires the beauty of this species... watching one die this way is a funny tribute>
I do understand that their diet is best provided via live rock, and before the introduction of this fish,
<this is a stretch at best. Only in huge tanks with huge refugiums and both mature and established (over one year old). Without a refugium, this and any such fish will decimate any number of zooplankton in the display tank in mere months>
we had so many pods that our sand and rock were literally crawling with them both night and day.  Not to mention a host of worm variety and other little inhabitants.  I have no problem continuing to swap out/ reculture live rock to help sustain her,
<very grateful to hear this... but it still will not help my friend. When forced to browse the same few square feet of live rock every day and share it with other creatures, these plankters will be quickly depleted>
but I do need to consider supplementing her diet.  She
has been eating well on the rocks for now, and she also pecks at the glass (my other two fish do it as well... monkey see monkey do...hehehe).  
<the actual problem is that this fish like Anthiines or Dragonets on copepods literally eat several thousand individual particles per day in the wild. There is no way you can provide this unless you literally culture live copepods, rotifers, etc>
I have tried different food to supplement her diet, but she has taken very little interest ( brine with HUFA, marine mix SF brand, blood worms, and formula one frozen) I cut off a small amount of each, mix in some formula one and two dry food, and add a few drops of Zoe.  I let it thaw and then feed with
turkey baster.  My other critters love this but again, Eleanor shows little interest.  
<this is common... but even when they feed on brine shrimp, its a hollow food>
I am considering trying scallops, mussels, squid from our seafood
shop, but I have a few questions about that.  I am assuming that it should be fresh raw, not cooked or frozen?  Should I look at finding a way to "stick" it in the rock crevices or bind it to some small pieces of live rock rubble, since her preferred feeding method is to bite at the rock and substrate?  
<yes... browsing for benthic microorganisms>
I would really like this fish to stay healthy since my husband
loves her (as do I but reluctantly <grin>).  Anyway, thank you again for your time, and your site and the forum are visited everyday by my husband and me. Best Regards, Erica
<I truly am sorry to bear this news, but Anampses species are some of the most difficult species to keep alive still in the trade. Yours will almost certainly become a statistic unless you learn to culture copepods fast. There are a few online suppliers of live bottled copepods. You should also try feeding thawed frozen Cyclop-eeze (and freeze-dried ones if this fish will eat them). These are your best bets. When this fish does perish... please do resist the temptation to try another. A 2 year (or less) captive lifespan is just not a responsible use of living resources when the creature should live well over 10 years naturally. Best of luck, Anthony>

Sixline wrasse to consume bristle worms
hi,
I know bristle worms attack clams, so I intend to put a 6-line wrasse in
the tank to protect it. Will he try to feed off from the clam also?
<< No, six line wrasse are very clam safe.  You may want to keep the clam off the bottom of your tank if you are worried about worms. >>
<<  Blundell  >>

Question about Creole Wrasse Clepticus parrae
Dear Bob,
<Jake>
I recently read your online article about Labridae wrasse family.  In it you briefly mention the Creole Wrasse.  I have seen these many times in the wild and think they are a beautiful and interesting fish.
<Yes, and only infrequently seen in captivity... I've noticed them only a handful of times in public aquariums and the trade>
Especially due to their schooling behavior.  A friend of mine has a 400G reef and we have been trying to get our hands on a  school of these guys for his tank.  In my observations diving the males seldom reach 1 ft and most are around 8 inches with the females significantly smaller (~5 inches or so and much less full bodied).
<Our observations agree>
  All my observations of them are from reefs in the Turks and Caicos Island chain.    In your article a brief paragraph is devoted to the Creole wrasse that accompanies its picture.  In the paragraph you state that it "(mis)enters" the trade and that most pass away in shipping.  I get the feeling that you feel that these are ill suited for aquarium life.  Have you had any first hand experience with these fish?
<No first hand... and to be clear, it is not that the species is ill-suited, but rather the current practices in handling and shipping it are inappropriate>
I have found few people that have kept them, but those I have contacted say they are large for the average reef but that they are hardy and eat almost any prepared food.  One person contacted had kept them in a 300g tank and said they formed a polarized tight school in captivity and were wonderful to watch.
<Neat>
Considering the size of the tank (400G) that these are meant for and the much smaller size of the females would you think that these might be a good choice for a unique schooling fish in this large tank?
<Yes, particularly if you can either go collect them yourself, or convince a diver/collector (there are some that deal, sell direct to the public) to pack them... and this is very different than virtually all marines... in one large double-bag per box, placing more than one individual (number will vary depending on size) together>
Possibly one male with 6 or so females?
<Sounds good>
I have a contact at a local pet shop who was looking for these for me and has acquired a couple of 2.5 inch juveniles direct from a diver in the Caribbean he purchases from.  
<Perfect>
They seem to be in remarkable health, very active and alert.  I and my friend were planning on picking them up tonight and acclimating them to his sparsely populated reef and acquiring 4 more juveniles and a "Super male" for his tank as my contact is able to acquire them.  Have you had any experience with these or know of any experiences with these that might be helpful to our keeping this fish or possibly knowledge that might discourage their purchase?
<It has been many years since I dive-collected in the tropical West Atlantic and had first hand contact with folks in the trade there (John Noyes, Dave Vatter...), but there are many fine people in the industry you might try contacting re information. Forrest Young (Dynasty Marine), the folks at ORA... through the Net>
Thanks you very much for any info you might be able to provide
Regards
Jacob Maki
<Sounds like a very interesting project. Do report back your experiences, please. Bob Fenner>
Thanks so much for the response.  I will let you know how things proceed.
Kind Regards
Jake
<Thank you. Bob Fenner>

Pod control - wrassalicious 8/28/04
Which type of wrasse can be considered for cleaning all types of pods in the tank.
<most wrasses prey heavily on microcrustaceans. Focus first on their sometimes aggressive personalities for find a species with an adult size and temperament that is compatible with your present tankmates>
My tank is completely filled up with these tiny pods which sometimes irritates my fishes.
<they do not irritate fishes, my friend. There must be something else at play here>
Can u suggest me a suitable wrasse ( one which is found in Indian Ocean ). I stay in India and the one found in Indian ocean will be easily available. Regards Rajesh   
<Halichoeres species overall tend to be well behaved and good predators on pods. Best of luck, Anthony>

Good Wrasse/Bad Wrasse?
I just looked up info on the canary wrasse that you mentioned. It says it is also called a yellow wrasse and that only an expert should try to keep it. 
<I think that you are mistaken. The wrasse that I referred to is a Halichoeres chrysus, one of the easiest of the wrasses to keep. In fact, in Scott Michael's "Marine Fishes" (the classic pocket reference in the hobby), he rates it a "4" (on a 1 to 5 scale, 5 being the easiest to keep fishes). Do recheck. remember, several fishes my be known by the same common name, which is why I referred to it by the scientific name. I've kept these fishes for years with no troubles. They are hardy, fun to watch, and colorful. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> 

Napoleon wrasse
Bob, <Paul in for Bob today>
  My LFS has a 6 in. Napoleon wrasse. <Oh no. These are wonderful fish but absolutely do not belong in aquaria. A public Aquarium is the only place I can advocate its use> I know they can get HUGE. <gets the size of your couch! To seven feet (2.3m) and more than four hundred pounds. Folks ought to leave this friendly giant in the sea.> But will this juvenile grow any bigger in my 240 gallon? <Why wouldn't it? Usually fish grow faster in closed systems due to the lack of competition for food and predators> I know fish don't really grow much in a closed system. <Not really true. Most fish may only have some small changes from their natural ocean state (coloration and rarely a slightly smaller size) but usually it is only a matter of a few inches. Fish tend to grow rapidly in closed systems for the reasons above> How about this wrasse?? <Encourage the owner to never bring another wrasse of this magnitude into the store, as it shows ignorance and apathy for the very business that gives 'em a living. I would not keep this fish> Thanks <Thanks for letting state my opinion through your question. ~Paul>                                                                           
         Linstun

In Search Of The Perfect Wrasse...
Hello Crew,
<Hello! Scott F. here today>
Thought I pop in another question for my mentors.  I've been wanting to purchase a Rhomboid Wrasse for some time now.
<Awesome fish!>
However, I've seen pairs at the LFS but never of acceptable quality by my standards. I figured if I'm going to spend that kind of money, it should be in perfect condition.
<I agree with you 100%!>
Are Rhomboids really bad shippers?  The ones I've seen were
always pale, inactive, breathing heavy, white blotches on skin, and with a few nips here and there.  They told me that is how they always come.
<Well, these fish tend to suffer during the collection and shipping process. They are usually found in deeper water, and the initial collection often leads to trauma. Then, like other fishes, they have to endure a number of days without food, in poor water, while being shipped to the wholesaler, dealer, and then to you. Little wonder that they look to be in poor shape! My advice to you is to either place a deposit on some at the LFS, and see if they will hold them for a few days (to give them a chance to recover a it), or to pay the extra $$ and get them from a online source like Marine Center or LiveAquaria.com.>
And when I try to wait out on them, they're always sold before I can get another look.  Well, the LFS has another Rhomboid in, but no pair, just one male.  Would the male lose color w/o the better half?
<Quite possibly. With other species of wrasses to "flash" at, he might retain some color, though>
And would it be wise to add just any non-pair female if they come along later on?
<Ideally, you'd want one male to two or three females. These fish are "haremic" in nature, and display nicely when kept this way in the aquarium>
Another thing is, if they are still in bad condition as before, which I expect, do you think I should take a risk in buying it based on the aforementioned conditions?
<I'd see if they improve a bit in the dealer's tank, first, before taking them home. See if he/she accepts a deposit>
I've waited and waited. Just don't know how long I would
have to keep on waiting.  The LFS says they probably won't be getting any of them soon after this one.
<Trust me on this- I'm a huge wrasse fan. I've missed a bunch of rare fishes over the years 'cause I hesitated for various reasons (like the ones you describe), but they always seem to be available again down the line. Maybe not tomorrow, or even next month. But eventually...It took me almost a year and a half to find a "Peppermint" Hog Fish (B. masudai), but I eventually found a great specimen. The same is true for many fairy and flasher wrasses. There will be others out there. Unless the specimen is an absolute one-of-a-kind,  I would wait for a good-quality one.>
Tks for your advice always.
Roy
<My pleasure, Roy! Don't give up the search. It's part of the fun! Regards, Scott F>

- Comparing Wrasses -
Which wrasse is a better choice as in being hardy, and less aggressive? A yellowtail Coris, or a dragon wrasse? <The Coris.> And out of the two can either be housed with a lunare wrasse? <In my view of the world, neither unless your tank is huge - in the 500+ gallon range.> Thanks for your time...
<Cheers, J -- >

Blue cleaner wrasse on pyramidellid snails 
Hi! I have a giant clam which has pyramidellid snails on it. I introduced some blue cleaner wrasse knowing that wrasses eat these parasites. 
<wrasses do eat them but not cleaner wrasses. A six line or four line will do the trick> 
Is blue cleaner wrasse good in eating pyrams? 
<no> 
When is wrasse more effective? day or night? 
<depends on wrasse cleaner wrasses more active during day> 
I am planning to do a little experiment on the feeding habits of the blue cleaner wrasse that I bought. Do you know the rate of feeding of this wrasse on pyrams? 
<no feeding> 
I want to know if the result of my experiment will be correct. Thanks a lot! I want to be a marine biologist someday... 
<Thanks for the question Mike H> 

- Harlequin Tusk - What do you Think? -
What's your opinion of the Harlequin? <I love 'em - one of my favorite fish.> I would like to add a wrasse to my 200 gallon system that already houses a Naso (7"), maroon clown (2"), yellow tang (2"), Maculosus angelfish (5"), and a blue throat triggerfish (5").  I love the Harlequin's but are they hardy <Yes.> and will they do well with the existing tankmates?  <Yes, I think so.>
Thanks for your advice and opinion.
<Cheers, J -- >

- Harlequin Tusk - What do you Think? Follow-up -
Thanks for your help. <My pleasure.> I was thinking of getting one from Australia in the 3-4 inch range. <From my limited experience, I've never seen an Australian Tuskfish come in less than six inches - they seem to catch them big out there... but the colors are a real pay off, these fish are much more striking than their Indo-Pacific counterparts.> Sound ok with you? <Sure.> Thanks again. I appreciate you all!
<Cheers, J -- >

Senorita wrasse availability
WWM Crew,
Is it a reasonable assumption that Senorita wrasses (Oxyjulis californica) are not a species that are available to the marine hobbyist?
Bob Jones
<Hmm... one of the three species of labrids found off our (California) coast. Well, they are collected by folks here for the Public Aquarium biz... you might ask your dealer... or maybe you will want to call some of the marine livestock wholesalers in the Los Angeles area (Quality Marine would be my first try) if they can put you in touch with specimens or the collectors.
Bob Fenner>

Pseudojuloides cerasinus
Hey Bob
While on Maui over Xmas I saw an incredible wrasse-- my dive manual identified it as the Smalltail wrasse-- Pseudojuloides cerasinus. Is this fish suitable as an aquarium animal in either a f/o or a reef system and is
it ever available from suppliers? I've not been able to find it on any of the online sources like ffexpress. 
Also, ffexpress has the dragon wrasse (Novaculichthys taeniourus) listed under their unsuitable list of animals. What about the adult form of Novaculichthys taeniourus (Rockmover wrasse)? Is it a decent aquarium
species? and is it ever seen on the market? Thanks! Randy 
<<Do know of the fish, P. cerasinus... hard to approach, but it is caught and sold into the trade from Hawai'i on occasion (and more rarely Micronesia). Unfortunately, like other members of the genus it does not fare well in captivity... most dying in a week or so... from? Transport shock? Stress in general? They're always found in dense coral settings... so maybe you'll be the one to keep them successfully... Ask your suppliers if you're interested... and IMO, do try to get a pair... though the females aren't nearly as attractive.
Of the other six-hundred plus species of wrasses (you can see why nobody lists them all), the Rock Mover or Dragon Wrasse (Novaculichthys) is generally a tough species for aquarium use if you get an initially healthy specimen... maybe too tough... for most systems. This species gets larger (to more than eight inches), quickly and is a voracious feeder that often becomes a bully of easier going tankmates... and is a prodigious digger... toppling decor... So, is really only suitable with other aggressive fishes. Oh, and it's on the market most times of the year. Just ask for it... in the west as a Dragon Wrasse. Bob Fenner>>

Wrasses For A Community Tank...
I have a 200 gallon with live rock, a Naso tang, yellow tang, blue-throat trigger, maculosus angel, and a maroon clown.  I would like to have a small wrasse to add to the tank.  Could you recommend one? Thanks for your help.
<I'd really recommend one of the colorful and hardy Halichoeres species, such as H. chrysus, H. iridis (my favorite), or H. melanurus. All are adaptable, fun to watch, and very attractive! Each would add a splash of color and interest to your tank! There are, of course, other species of interest, but this list of some of my personal "faves" may point you in the right direction...Enjoy the research; you can find tons of good information on wrasses right here on the WWM site! Regards, Scott F>
Elizabeth K. Birdwell

Big Plans For A Small World! (Pt.2)
Hi Scott.
<Hello, again!>
You're a top bloke and no mistake! I'm looking into these little
beauties this very moment, the wrasse is stunning.
<Excellent! I had a feeling that you'd like it!>
I'm a bit bitter on wrasses though. As much as I love watching them  'fly' I can't get over a time I was visiting an LFS some years ago, who'd just placed A LOT of stock into their tanks for sale. I witnessed two lunar(?) wrasses teaming up and beating a young percula to death, eating and scoffing all the while, I'm sure. Okay so they were only doing what they know but the way they attacked each flank simultaneously (much like the Raptors in Jurassic Park) made me pity the poor creature and stare
in amazement. I called the store owner over but by the time he'd moved  10 feet to the tank it was more or less gone.
<Yep- the larger ones can be nasty...No problem with the sixline, though...They're good citizens, IME>
Many thanks for your time and sharing of wisdom slash experience.
There's no questions here just praise and a recount of something you've  probably seen many many times (the wrasse thing).
Best regards, Kendal McGuire
<Thanks so much for the kind words, Kendal. I just paused to admire my own little sixline right now...Love the little guy! Good luck to you! Regards, Scott F>

I want the wrasse, but not the cyanide
>Hi to all,
>>Well HELLO Bry!  Fancy meetin' you here.  ;)
>I haven't asked any questions for a while as I have been busy redesigning my tank and getting it set up.  It has now been running for about 3-4 months this time around.  I have a 55 gal corner bow, 20 gal sump 15-20 X turnover rate, 60 lbs of liverock, 4" DSB, and quite a few snails, blue leg hermit crabs, tons of bristle worms, brittle stars and various pods.
>>I remember from your post on RDO.
>I decided on the list of fish to keep before I set up the tank, and conferred with several of you on different choices.
Here is the list that was decided on:
3 Carpenter Flasher Wrasses (2 female and 1 male)
2 PJ Cardinals
1 Fire Goby
1 Pearlscale Butterflyfish
1 Longnose hawkfish
They were to be added in that order, with a minimum of a month quarantine.
>>Sounds pretty good to me.  But, I've become particular to Banggai cards, myself.
>Now for my problem.  The Carpenter Flasher Wrasses are hard to find.  
>>Oh yes they are!  But GORGEOUS.
>I have also heard a little bit of rumor that they are being caught with cyanide.  So, I am wondering,   
>1.. Have any of you heard of a company that has Carpenters that are guaranteed to not be caught with cyanide?
>2.. If not, is there any way to tell by looking at a live specimen if it was in fact captured using those means?  I have not read of any kind of test that can be done by the time the end user (me) receives the fish, but I was wondering what your thoughts on this are.
>>Well, IIRC, Budhaboy suggested going with Mary Middlebrook.  Matt Wandell, as well as NKT (sorry, don't know his real name) seem to know of where to find the "hard to find" fishes, and the only places I know of are wholesale ONLY. (Sea Dwelling Creatures would be the first place I'd look, but they will not sell to you, and I've seen them at Quality Marine as well.)  Have you Googled?  Now, let's see if we can sort out whether or not cyanide caught.  The issue is that the only test I know of requires the fish to be killed.  Beyond that, we look to point of origin: Paracheilinus carpenteri hails from the Indo-Pacific, so we could surmise that there's a good chance that, even if not actually caught with cyanide, they may have been exposed.  Check this link on http://www.fishbase.org (bookmark that!) http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?ID=4843&genusname=Paracheilinus&speciesname=carpenteri
>3.. If I can't find this fish, could you suggest a replacement that would go good with the other fish in my list?  Thanks once again for your time and a great website.  Bryan Flanigan
>>Digging in my memory banks here, I recollect something called a "mystery wrasse" (our own JasonC has a very nice--and hard to come by--specimen), there are also picture wrasses, as well as other fairy wrasses.  If you go for Red Sea animals you'll be more certain to avoid the cyanide issue, as well as with Australian animals.  If you see that an animal hails from Indonesia or the Philippines, you might be concerned with cyanide exposure.  IIRC, it's not as widespread in Fiji or Bali, two other areas to consider.  I don't know if there's a wrasse site quite as dedicated as that Japanese goby site (that site is da bomb), but it's worth a Google, eh?  Do feel free to contact Mary at http://www.seacrop.com because even if she can't supply you with the fish, she knows at least as well as anyone I can think of what the chances are of being able to determine whether or not an animal's been exposed.  Talk to you soon!  Marina

Don't Pass Up A Wrasse!
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I have a 125 reef with mainly soft corals, LPS corals. I have peaceful fish: 3 purple Firefish, 3 red Firefish, 1 green clown goby, 1 threadfin goby, 1 citron goby, 1 red head goby, 2 maroon clowns, 1 rose e quad. anemone, a green e. quad, 4 cleaner shrimp, 3 fire shrimp, 6 peppermint shrimp, 4 green Chromis, and two neon blue gobies in the mail as I write.
<My kind of fish population! Small is beautiful, especially in a large tank!>
I am very interested in ordering a fairy wrasse or a flasher wrasse.  I have reviewed the marine center page and there are so many I am overwhelmed.  I have tried to avoid difficult species. (I just don't like killing things.)
<I can dig that!>
Could you recommend some hardy, compatible, pretty species for me that stay small?
<Well, there are, as you stated, many, many different species that stay small, are colorful, and are easy to care for. In my experience and opinion, you could do well with many Cirrhilabrus species. I really like C. solorensis, C. rubriventralis, and C. scottorum (heh, heh, heh!). If you're like me, and want to support the "home team", you could get a C. jordani (Hawaiian Flame Wrasse)...>
(I prefer lots of small colorful fish, rather than a few big ones, although I am seriously considering setting up a fish only tank b/c dog face puffers and cow fish are just too cool.)
<Diggin' this! My thoughts exactly, bruddah!>
Are fairy wrasses and flasher wrasses really reef safe, or are they like Centropyge's where you're always taking a chance.
<No- they really are "reef safe", being strictly planktivorous, and not interested in corals or sessile inverts at all. Maybe the only caveat with these fishes (and one that's frequently overlooked by most hobbyists, IMO-is that they are predominantly found in deeper water, and seem to behave more "calm" in less brightly lit tanks (or perhaps, 20000k would be a nice compromise)...Yes, they will adapt to brightly lit tanks just fine, but this is just something that you may want to think about when planning for these fishes. They can be kept individually, or in small groups- like 3 females to one male...or groups of 5 (3 females to 2 males)...>
Thank you for your help, John Kim
<Any time, John! Good luck with your tank(s)!>

Don't Pass Up A Wrasse (Pt. 2)
Scott,
<Good morning!>
I forgot to mention that i have one blue mandarin. Will the wrasse compete with it for food. Again thank you for your help.
John
<Well, John, I'd have to say an unqualified "no". Fairy and flasher wrasses tend to pick food from the water column, whereas Mandarins generally confine their feeding to the substrate and rocks. Sure, the odd Fairy Wrasse might pick something off the rocks now  and again, but the vast majority of their feeding does take place in the open water. Hope this alleviates any lingering concerns you might have. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Don't Pass On The Wrasse!
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I hear that fairy wrasses are reef safe but that they eat
invertebrates.
<to be honest with you, this is not the case at all, in my experience, and the experience of many fellow reef hobbyists who keep these fishes. Sure, there might be the one in 10,000 fairy wrasses who decides that an Acropora would be a nice snack, but that is very, very rare..>
This is something I do not want in my fish- I would like to
keep shrimp and maybe snails.  I am setting up a 120 gal reef (mostly SPS) that I am planning fish for.  However, I read that some of the fairy and flasher wrasses (for ex. Cirrhilabrus laboutei , Cirrhilabrus filamentosus, Paracheilinus carpenteri ) are reef safe, do not eat invertebrates, and may be kept in harems of one male to a few females. Would this be a possibility
for my tank?
<Sure- a group would make a colorful and lively addition to a reef tank. You have it right- definitely keep several females to one male, if you're doing the "group thing">
Could you give me a clear list for how to care for them?
<Check out this link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/cirrhilabrus/index.htm   >
I originally wanted to keep a small group of Anthias (Fathead
Sunbursts) but they seem like a more demanding species than the wrasses. Must these fish really be fed more than one time a day?
<On the whole, Anthias tend to be more difficult to keep, don't always acclimate well, and can be a bit more finicky to feed. Unless you are willing to devote considerable time to feeding and housing them properly, I'd pass on the Anthias>
If you could clear up my thoughts I would really appreciate it.
Thank you, Rafael Rodriguez
<My pleasure, Rafael. These wrasses make amazing additions to your tank. Hope that you enjoy them! Regards, Scott F>

Mexican wrasse in hiding
Background: 55 gallon (fully cycled), 2 clowns, 1 Firefish, 1 Rabbitfish, and 1 wrasse with about 18 pounds of live rock and good water conditions. I have a Mexican (Cortez, Rock, Rainbow) Wrasse for about 6 weeks now.  The
first 2 weeks he was always visibly swimming around the tank and never hiding - then I added some (more) live rock and did a little rearranging in the tank.  The wrasse now hides for the past 4 weeks.  I have peeked around
the corner when the lights are off in the room and I know he is alive and has very good color... as soon as I put the lights on or he sees me he bolts back into his hiding place (a fake plastic sponge (I think) coral, where one
of the fingers broke off allowing him access to swim into the base) and won't come out.  My question - he is a beautiful fish and I enjoyed watching him swim for the first 2 weeks so what can I do to get his behavior back to
that state.
<Likely not much that is easy to do... this fish lives in quite large haremic settings... lots of space... and lots of others (especially females) of its own kind. If you had a larger system (a few hundred gallons) you might be able to somewhat replicate more natural conditions, and hence behavior... If you can place this fish in at least twice the current volume, adding a female or two would likely induce the male to become (return to being) more outgoing. Bob Fenner>
Thank you so much for your help with.

What about wrasses?
Rather than pester you with ???? after ???
I read some stuff you wrote to others about
Cleaner Wrasses and Hogfish!
<Ah, good... the reason for posting all on the WWM site... in addition to hopeful inspiration>
You did mention A
cleaner shrimp, but I can not do that cause of
my trigger. What kind wrasses would help
my situation when I get my salinity back up?
<Many choices... perhaps Larabicus, Bodianus when small... maybe some tank-raised Gobiosoma gobies... and you might be surprised to find that even Triggers can/will recognize Cleaner Shrimp as "helpers" rather than meals in some cases>
How many would do the job?
<One in the case of wrasses, perhaps two for Gobiosoma.>
It seems to me there is no such thing as a parasite free
tank. is this true? 
<There are such systems, culture facilities... they take great care in selection, quarantine, preventative measures>
I feel the hole hobby is about fighting
parasites and it is not an enjoyable experience.
<Perhaps life in the larger sphere can be regarded this way... But, I entreat you, will this "reality" change? Or only our apparent attitude towards it? A very important issue here my friend. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again
Jason

Questions (Wrasse selection, Trumpetfish)
Hey Bob,
I have a couple of questions for you about my two tanks. In my 54 gallon tank I now have a flame angelfish, a Kole tank, a pair of true percula clowns, an algae blenny, a pair of cleaner shrimp, and some misc snails and hermits.
I have about 40 lbs of live rock and a DSB in this tank.
In my seahorse tank (20 gal) I have a DSB, about 15 lbs of live rock, 2 OR Mustang Sea Horses, and some snails that reproduced in my 54 gallon tank.
My first question is about my 54 gallon tank. I would like to add another fish. I would like to add a small wrasse. I really like the 6-line wrasse and have herd some good things about them. Do you think I could add one without a problem? (Keep in mind I have 45 lbs of live rock curing in a tub in the basement and I want to add all the rock after it cures and let the tank settle for a while until I buy a new fish) Could you recommend another species of wrasse that would go well with my tank if any?
<This is a good choice... and the ratings of all the species available to the trade can be found on the site... I'd check out these genera: Pseudocheilinus, Paracheilinus and Cirrhilabrus>
My second question is about my seahorse tank. I have two seahorses in it now.. Do you think I could add another pair or 2 over time?
<Mmm, not in my opinion... best to keep with just the two in a twenty gallon>
Also, I saw a yellow Trumpetfish recently while diving in St. Thomas. Can these be kept in a home aquarium?
<Some people have done this... members of the same Order (Syngnathiformes) as the Seahorses... need big systems though... hundreds of gallons. Bob Fenner>
Thanks A Lot,
Jonathan Pac

Stocking densities... (wrasse selection, and Centropyges, dipping, life)
Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply. I had a few follow-up and unrelated questions.
In the smaller tank, I'm thinking of keeping a derasa clam. Which one of
the three (Wrasses/dotty) would you recommend for parasitic snail and/or
bristleworm control?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pseudocheilinus.htm and the FAQs linked beyond, the sections on Tridacnids...>
In the larger tank, I was following the capacity outlines of M. Paletta in
the new marine aquarium- 2" of fish /gallon of capacity. 
<I think this may be way off... Mike may have offered the "rule of thumb" of 1/2" maximum per gallon...>
Given that I
should easily be able to keep a 12" angel and tankmates. Is it a territory
issue or is Paletta wrong with what he is saying?
<You are interpreting a generality beyond it's utility... think of two versus three dimensionality... a given length of organism needs more space than its inches subdivided into increments... e.g. 12 one inch fishes are metabolically less than one 12 inch individual...>
Also, with a six foot long tank, would I be able to keep 2-3 centropyge
angels? 
<Likely so... of most species... they will interact, but given enough nooks, crannies, shouldn't cause any real damage to each other>
I know they tend to fight, but I figured with that size tank, and
enough rock work it should be O.K. I was thinking of a Hawaiian/Polynesian
biotope with a flame and a potter's along with a Centropyge to be named
later. 
<Sounds like you've been doing your investigating>
I would add native tangs, butterflies, a Picasso trigger, and a
snowflake moray- any general problems with the design so far?
<Not as far as I'm aware>
Now for the unrelated questions- Can you recommend a good livestock source
in the St. Louis area? 
<Mmm, not familiar with the town, but do have a suggestion: post your question on the chatforum: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ under the "Internet/Local Fish Store" category>
They all seem to contradict themselves, and I don't
know who to believe. 
<Only yourself>
One of them told me that you cannot use protein
skimmer with the miracle mud product. Any truth to this? 
<No... no truth... as in "what has been done"... The owner of this company (Leng Sy) and I are friends and discuss this "to be or not to be" issue quite often... mud/muck systems can be run with skimmers... better to under skim, or run in a punctuated fashion (on/off a few hours per day) IMO/E>
He also told me
that he has never been able to carry out a successful fresh water dip, and
that quarantining is a bad idea as you stress the fish out twice.
<Some validity to these statements as exceptions... but, by and large, these techniques/practices are of tremendous utility. Put another way, the vast majority of cases, individuals benefit tremendously through their employ>
So far,
he's somewhat low on the credibility scale. However, another shop told me
to always dip my live rock in fresh water to eliminate bristle worms, crabs,
and other pests. I would think you would ruin the rock by doing this. As
you can see, I'm in a bit of a quandary.
<But you're thinking... very exciting. Do consider all these opinions and ours/mine... and look further at the base rationale, factual understanding to all's points in making up your own mind.>
Thanks again, and the website is great!
Chris
<Thank you, Bob Fenner>

ID Pencil wrasse
Dear Mr. Fenner,
I hope that you can help with this concern.
<Me too>
I made a spontaneous decision last weekend. 
<Mmm, such lead-ins always make me nervous...>
I know this is not a good idea
in this hobby but I saw a really interesting fish and bought it without
researching its care requirements. The only point in my defense is that I
have a 60g tank that is almost empty so my new fish wouldn't really have any
compatibility problems.
<Okay...>
The new fish is a 'pencil wrasse' (according to the LFS) and I promised
myself that I would do the research while I was acclimating the fish and go
back to the store if necessary to pick up any supplies that I would need.
When I sat down with my books, I couldn't find anything about this fish. I
looked online and found a few mentions but no solid info. Even worse - the
only mentions that I found were on sites like PetsWarehouse that listed this
fish on their restricted lists! 
<Yes... this genus of Labrids are not easily kept in captivity>
I posted my concern on a message board and
a response listed this link:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pseudojuloides_wrasses.htm. 
<Oh! Those know-it-alls! Wait, this is our site...>
Unfortunately, this
doesn't show any pics of my fish so I still can't be sure about the species
but it does mention that this entire Genus is listed as 'ultra advanced'. 
<If you have time, patience, please look under the genus name on the www.fishbase.org site... many pix, references, albeit non-husbandry in nature there.>
I do not consider myself ultra advanced by any means but I am