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FAQs on Acclimation Rationale/Use
Related Articles: Acclimation,
Acclimating Invertebrates, Acclimating
Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting, Methylene
Blue, Related FAQs: Acclimation
1, Acclimation 2,
Acclimation 3, & FAQs on Acclimation:
Tools/Gear, Chemicals,
Methods, Controversies,
Troubles/fixing, & Acclimating
Invertebrates,
Acclimation of Livestock in the Business,
Dips/Baths 1,
Best Quarantine FAQs,
Quarantine, |
Best means to prevent introduction of pests, parasites... and reduce
trauma, damage from shipping... Dips/baths may be part of this
procedure. |
Acclimating and
Lighting, Marine 3/30/06 Hi everybody, <Hey there,
Adam J with you.> Hope you are all well. <At the moment; yes.
Thanks for asking.> Just a couple of quick questions if I may -
<Of course.> 1. I have read the FAQs & articles relating to this &
would like to clarify my understanding if I may. <Sure.> For
acclimation of snails & hermits (which have been shipped overnight) am I
right in thinking that the combination of ammonia & probable decline in
ph in the shipping water combined with the increased toxicity of ammonia
as ph rises makes it better to place these directly into the new system
water (without acclimation) <I disagree.> so long as salinity &
ph are not too dissimilar? <Well see…invertebrates are quite
sensitive to such things as (including but not limited to) pH, ammonia,
nitrate, nitrite, salinity and temperature…that even a slight change can
be fatal. I recommend a drip acclimation for such animals over a long
period of time to allow them to slowly adjust….see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm .> what is an
acceptable difference here? or is there a wiser acclimation technique
for this? <See above.> 2. In a 2 foot cube aquarium with a 21"
water depth with a 150w 10,000k Metal halide lamp 6" above water how
likely is it that I can limit myself to stony corals & achieve placement
down to the substrate level - any species that I should look at for
these lower depths? <Most Montipora sp. should be fine at that
depth, if your still looking for those in the stony class.> or am I
more likely to have to go for a mixed population of softies & mushrooms
below with some sps on top? <No I would avoid that mix.> maybe
some LPS on the sand <That may work if placed appropriately.> -
basically I'm unsure what I can do with this quantity/quality of light
at this depth of water column <See above.> Many thanks
<Anytime.> P <Adam J.>
Re: Saltwater die off Thanks for the reply Bob. I will pass on
the info to my customer. BTW, since using your medicated bath from
the "Guerilla Acclimation Techniques" I've had a huge improvement in the
health of fish coming into my store. You and the rest of the crew
have done wonders for the aquatic community, and I know of many fish who
would thank you as well if they could speak. :) Regards, James
Foley Thunder Bay Aquascapes www.tbaquascapes.com <Ahh, thank
you my friend. BobF> Acclimation/Dip Order
Bob, Just a quick question for you, Do I acclimate the fish in the
tank first then do a freshwater dip? or do I put the fish in the
freshwater dip right away from the Pet store then put in the main tank
or hospital ? (Hmm. Good question... depends on the health of the
livestock... If it 'good initial health´, the dip-bath and then to the
hospital-quarantine system... if not in great shape... the opposite
protocol) Thanks again bob your always a great help. by the way how
did you like the Philippines ? (You're welcome, and very much... very
good people there... kind, hard-working, honest... much like in Mexico
where I am currently visiting. Wish you were here to go diving... Bob
Fenner) Acclimating during dip I'm sort of confused on
dips. If you have a new fish, how do you acclimate and do a dip at the
same time. Do you just forget the acclimation, and just dip and put in
the new tank. I read the FAQ , I didn't see anything on acclimating
during dip. <Hmm, well, these are two different operations in many
cases... If you "do" dips, then use them as the acclimation process to
the quarantine system if possible... otherwise if risking placing new
livestock directly into a main system... use the acclimation procedures
to ready the specimens for the dip itself... with the conditions of the
dip (temperature, pH...) approximating the main/display system water...
All covered I think in articles, FAQs on the site: Home Page > Also
do you have a suggestion for a colorful fish to go with a dogfaced
puffer and blue boxfish in a 75 gal tank. Something slow moving and not
to difficult to keep. I was considering a powder blue, till I read
you didn't recommend it. Thanks Bob for the site. >> <You're
welcome, and I would look into one of the Surgeonfishes of the genera
Zebrasoma or Ctenochaetus for right now... they're also covered on the
site. Bob Fenner> Copper from Store Water I don't
know if this is something to worry about or not. I'm new to keeping reef
aquaria, and have 1 month ago, started to set up a 15-gallon. I added 20
lb live rock along with aragonite sand bed that I seeded with live sand
from my LFS. The tank cycled, and I added some turbo snails, red leg
hermits, emerald crab. Everything looked OK for 2.5 weeks. Then I added
a Percula. I didn't find your web site until I started searching for the
reason the following happened. Of course, my LFS suggested I acclimate
and add directly to the tank. Unfortunately, that's what I did. Two days
later, the fish showed a white cotton-like film. They suggested I add
copper, which I did not do. <Good instincts> I gave him a
freshwater dip and placed him back in the tank. The next day he died.
I've learned my lesson about a quarantine tank. I've since gone on and
added a red open brain that appears to be doing OK (11-days ago).
Unfortunately, I just discovered today that my LFS adds copper to their
tanks which means when I added the Perc to my tank, I got some of their
water in my system. How concerned should I be about the copper that was
in their water in my tank. While I realize its a very low concentration,
is it going to be a problem for future inverts? <Hopefully not, but a
good reminder to never add any water to your system from any store. I
always drip acclimate all additions and then scoop out the fish and
place in the tank. I then discard all the shipping and dripped in water.
You can find more info on acclimation on WWM.> Thanks for your input.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro> Help!!!!! (Icky ich, crypto, and
what else!?) I have my own tank maintenance company and have been
having a big problem with saltwater fish in general. I have a resale
license so I pick up fish for my customers. I have had a big problem
with them staying alive in the holding tanks that I have. I have tried
everything and I am pulling my hair out. They look great the first day
or two, then they start breathing fast break out with ick and die soon
after that. I have tried meds, freshwater dip, and probably ten other
things and nothing works. I have even torn the tanks down cleaned them
out and set them back up and that doesn't work. Tangs are the worst and
clowns run a close second. Any ideas? Any thoughts that you might
have would be great. Jim <Sounds like they are beginning with
Amyloodinium and progressing to Cryptocaryon or Brooklynella. Bob has
written extensively on treatment and receiving protocols. Begin reading
here for ideas and follow out to other articles and FAQ's
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm You may wish to consider another
wholesaler, too. -Steven Pro>
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