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FAQs on Anemone Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 2
Related Articles:
Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs,
Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs: Anemone
Feeding 1, Cnidarian Feeding,
Food/Feeding/Nutrition,
Anemones, Anemones 2,
Caribbean Anemones,
LTAs, Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Compatibility,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Systems, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Identification, |  |
my anemone, unknown sp., fdg. 10/27/09
We bought an anemone at PetCo about 3 months ago and has been eating
frozen silversides twice a week very well.. The last 4 weeks he has spit
it back out, and I cant figure out why he wont eat anymore. He hasn't
moved from his rock but he has shrunk a little or just not getting big
like he used too..
<Do you chop up the fish first? If not... do that... and try some
variety (like Rod's food or get some brine shrimp, etc.)>
Our lights and our tank is well balanced. My husband keeps up with the
quality of the water daily.
<nice>
We have 4 Perculas, 1 yellow tang, 1 powder blue tang, and 5 small
hermit crabs.
<In how big a tank?>
Could our anemone be surviving on the flakes and pellets that we feed
our other fish? I will say that his eating habits changed when we added
the hermit crabs.
<Hmm... hermit crabs can be trouble, but I would suspect at this point
that it's either a water quality or food issue.>
Thank you
Jessie
<De nada,
Sara M.>
Anemones/Feeding 11/21/08
Hi, <Hello Linda>
I frequent several forums, my main area of interest is the Entacmaea
quadcolor <quadricolor> anemone and Stichodactyla tapetum (mini carpet).
I find this both educational and entertaining for I could talk/read on
the subject endlessly and never lose interest. <Agreed, especially when
kept with clownfish, a unique relationship.>
WetWebMedia has taught me much over the years, it is wonderful to have
your site with it's wealth of knowledge at my fingertips.
<Thank you.> Here is the
question- Do Entacmaea
quadricolor anemones require feeding of meaty food? What would you say
to the recommendation "An anemone gets 90% of its food from the light
and trace elements in your water. Supplemental feedings will not hurt,
but neither will not feeding them either." I have read your thread on
bta requirements and feeding. I get irritated when people will give bad
recommendations to new anemone keepers. They may begin with "first off,
stop feeding your anemone etc..." If you could advise me how to handle
these situations. I am just trying to be responsible and offer a little
help to those who are obviously concerned and confused, I just want to
be sure I am correct, and anemones do need feedings a couple times a
week. <Healthy anemones
do produce much of their own nutrition by way of photosynthesis, and is
why proper lighting is very important in keeping these animals in good
health. Anemones seem to do better when fed occasionally, and small
feedings twice weekly would be in order, but not absolutely necessary.
Excellent water quality and proper lighting would be at the top of my
list.> Thank you in
advance. <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Gratefully, Linda
Anemone Feeding Tools 3-31-2008 I want to start off by saying
thank you and this site is the best. <<Thank you sir.>> I kind of
have a almost silly question but I was told the only silly question is
the question not asked. <<I used to think that too until I started
working in law-enforcement.>> I have a brand new anemone and I was
reading up on feeding it but how do you feed it without placing your
hands or arms in an aquarium. <<Gloves, Tongs, Chopsticks, Turkey
Basters, Straws….to name a few.>> I have a 30 inch deep tank so its a
long ways down to feed the anemone at the bottom. I hope you are not
laughing at the simplicity of this question but if you could help me out
I would be greatly appreciated. <<Good luck and see above my
friend.>> Thanks Again <<Quite welcome.>> Brad <<Adam J.>>
Starving Anemone, BTA, E. Quadricolor – 12/17/07 I have a long
tip bulb anemone in a 250 gallon reef tank with 7 surgeonfish, 1 fox
face, 3 clowns, and 1 mandarin. I have 3 175 watt Metal Halides over
tank. <How deep is the tank?> I also have several cleaner shrimp
too. I have been having a problem with my anemone. It used to be like 7
inches in diameter and now it has shrunk to 3 inches in diameter.
<Yikes! How long have you had this anemone?> I have never directly
fed it because I thought the Perculas were feeding it. <You can’t
rely on clownfish to feed anemones. Some actually take food away from
anemones.> I do add Liquid Life BioPlankton and Cyclopeeze once a
week. <This is not adequate for an anemone.> I do this mainly for
my Derasa clam. I have tried to feed it frozen chunks of Mysis and he
refuses it or my fish take it away from him. <Is the anemone still
able to hold onto the food? What does the color look like? What are your
water parameters? What size portion are you trying to feed? Try 1/8”
sized portions of Mysis shrimp, silversides, krill, or lance shrimp. You
may have to protect the anemone while it eats. A plastic strawberry
basket that you get when you buy strawberries at the grocery store will
work for this.> The tentacles have shortened up quite a bit too.
<This is a sign of starvation.> How do I go about feeding this poor
guy so that I can get him big and healthy again? <Correct feeding and
proper environment is the only way.> Please respond back soon. Thank
you Christopher <You’re Welcome! Brenda> Can't
get my anemone to eat. Anemone Trouble... 2/1/07 Hello.
<Hi.> I've had an anemone for about a month and a half. I can't
remember what the retailer I bought it from called it, but I bought it
under his recommendation and I trust him with that. It has a white
base with white tentacles that are less than an inch long with purple
tips. <Maybe an H. crispa....maybe a little bleached, common for
this animal in captivity....unfortunately.> It ate about two to
three times a week for the first two weeks and since then it's only
eaten about once and I can't seem to get it to eat anything. I've been
feeding it freeze dried krill that I let sit in some tank water for
about ten minutes before I attempt to feed it. As I said, it hasn't
eaten in almost three weeks and I'm a bit concerned. <What is the
animals condition? By that I mean has it moved at all, is it "planted"
well into rock/substrate? Lighting and tank parameters?> Any tips?
<Perhaps you should try a smaller food, like mysids or even frozen
rotifers. Usually when anemones reject (throw-up basically) or refuse to
ingest foods, they are being overfed or fed to large of items.>
Dustin <Adam_J.> <<I'd send this person to the Sebae files... RMF>>
No to feeding dead Clown to Anemone 10/27/06 Hi there guy's
< Heya, Emerson with you today. > Hmmm tricky one, this may or may
not be the first on WWM . I came home this afternoon and as per .. I
made a b-line for the tank only to find one of my percula's MISSING . He
(since he was the smaller of the pair) didn't appear at feeding time and
I couldn't see him any where in the tank when I noticed that the filter
cap on my 300l/h power head was not on the pump. Yep you've guessed
it, power head 1 percula 0. Now although Am really gutted and I
promise I am, can I feed my anemone the percula. < Bag it and trash
it. Although you did not mention what type of anemone you have I can bet
it will not consume a dead clown without puking out a half digested
clown mass that will do your tank no good. > Yours sheepishly <
No worries buddy :) Give your departed clown a proper burial and keep an
eye on those powerheads!> dray
New Anemone Woes - 10/9/06
Hi there <Hi Dray - Tim answering your question today!> My names
dray and I'm a reef tank newbie. (I bet that's a breath of fresh air,
hey!) Iv had my tank (trogon 190) for a little over two months now
and yesterday I proudly bought an anemone hoping that my tank bred
percula's would host (dream on?) <Not necessary for your clownfish -
particularly if they are tank bred.> Today I got back from work and
the anemone is a purple mass of string where it settled yesterday kind
of how it seemed to go when the lights went out. I've done a water
change and I hope that might remedy the problem. Can you possibly
give me some advice and also some on feeding, coz after reading what you
guys do to feed your anomie's, and if that's the way to do it. Then I'm
gonna go back to my LFS and slap some body "All they need to eat
they get from the food the fish leave", is what I was told. <This is
not the case - the clownfish may help. You will need to supplement your
anemone diet. Please do a search on the WetWebMedia website for relevant
information - I assure you there is much of it! Unfortunately you do not
give enough details regarding your system for me to offer assistance. I
would suggest you read the online archives particularly focusing on the
issues of lighting and water quality! Best of luck! Tim>
Re:
sea anemone.. Carpet..., just read 10/8/06 Thank you
for your fast reply. I will have to find another interesting
invertebrate. One more quick question. Why do anemones need so much
light? Because if you feed them meaty foods why would they need the
light. They do not do photosynthesis. Thanks <Most do/can
derive a significant portion of their nutrition through
photosynthesis... Please, keep reading. BobF>
Feeding an
anemone 8/29/06 I recently purchased a red
tipped anemone. <Mmm, maybe Heteractis crispa... a Sebae... you will
want to know the species you're dealing with. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
I have read many questions about anemones not wanting to eat, but mine
is doing just the opposite. Yesterday I fed it a piece of shrimp about
the size of the anemones mouth, which it quickly consumed and re-opened
fully. Today <Whoa... slow down...> I fed it another piece which
it consumed as if it were starving, so about 5 hours later I fed it
again, and had the same result. I have read that anything that it
doesn't need it will expel, but this particular anemone isn't expelling
anything, only consuming. <... have slow metabolisms... will egest
wastes, unwanted food in time> So, on to my question - is it
possible to over-feed an anemone, and what could be the possible cause
of this voracious appetite? <Is possible to over-feed... don't have
much of a "food-refusal" response... food is scarce in the wild for the
most part... Please read the linked files to the citation above. Bob
Fenner> Anemone feeding/lighting and Tank
Upgrade - 5/11/2006 Lisa (or whomever the aquarist guru/happy
helper of the day is), <<Ha! This is Lisa again.>> Thanks for
getting back to me sooooo quickly. <<You're welcome.>> In
response to your question regarding my lighting for the anemone-this is
what I've got on the (still 30 gallon) tank: Current Dual Satellite
Lamp- 65 watt 2-lamp with lunar light (Dual Daylight 6,700/10,000 K and
Dual Actinic 420 Nm/460 Nm). <<I have never used this myself.>>
I was told at my LFS that the lighting is sufficient for the corals and
anemones, but I've seen many examples of disastrous consequences of poor
advice while reading your FAQ's. Was I misinformed? <<Not
entirely. Certainly not enough light for SPS, or an anemone, in my
opinion. Proper supplemental feeding of the anemone will surely
help. Is this the lighting that will go on the 72-gallon you are moving
to? If so, I would look into upgrading.>> Everything still seems to
be perky in there, but one never knows. I am feeding the anemone every
4-5 days with a small piece of raw shrimp or a small ball of formula one
frozen food. <<Not still frozen, I hope? Small meaty foods are the
way to go. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemonefdgfaqs.htm,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm.>>
I guard him from the sneaky thieving shrimp or put a strawberry basket
over him for awhile so he has a chance to decide if he wants to eat the
food, or spit it out. I AM somewhat unsure of the feeding technique- do
I gently shove the food into his mouth or just put it on his "lips"
waiting for his response? I don't want to gag the poor guy, but I don't
want to starve him either. <<Do read the linked files. Is he no
longer ‘sticky’?>> As for my new setup- here is what I'm
planning. I've spent the last three days reading FAQ's (and
subsequently eating nothing but beer and Cheetos) <<Diet of
champions, to be sure!>> but I'm still a little unclear, so if you
would humor me with some constructive criticism: 72 gallon display
with 1 inch oolitic sand (and an area of deeper sand-about 3 inches as
my firefish likes to burrow) Filtration: 15-gallon sump/refugium
with 6" sand bed of coarse- medium grade sand (taken from my current
tank with a 2-21/2 inch sand bed. Bad idea?) <<Not a bad idea to
use it from the other tank, no. My preference for DSB’s is oolitic
sand.>> and some "spaghetti" algae. Aqua C Remora Pro with Mag-3
pump (hanging on sump) <<Good skimmer.>> Rena XP3 canister
filter (trying to decide if I should filter/return directly from tank or
in sump after skimming) with charcoal, nitrate sponge. <<I do not
employ canisters on my reef tanks.>> Water movement: SEIO M820
Powerhead the 1200 Powerhead off the cheapie SeaClone skimmer
couple of airstones (necessary?) <<No.>> Visi-Therm Stealth 250
watt heater I'd like to move my existing fish but add a beefier
cleanup crew... but many of the packages I see for sale seem
excessive. Do I really need 18 Scarlet Hermit Crabs, 15 Astrea Snails,
15 Cerith Snails, and 45 Red-or Blue-Leg Hermits? <<You don’t NEED
any of them. It is a personal choice. I add ‘clean-up crews’ for
interest/bio-diversity. Ultimately it’s our job to feed properly/deal
with organics.>> I was planning to add a couple of Bumble Bee
snails, a sifting type star or two, and another tiny hermit crab.
<<I would pass on both the BumbleBee snails and the sand sifting
stars. These stars quickly eat up all available organisms in DSB’s, and
perish.>> My poor abused fairy wrasse actually seems... happy... in
the tiny 10-gallon quarantine as of right now. <<She is finally
getting a break!>> She is not hiding all day anymore and will
actually eat Formula One from my fingers. I hate to put her back into
the tank with the other nasty wrasse. He's prettier, but I think he
will go if I need to make a choice. <<I think fairy wrasses are much
more attractive than 6-lines.>> Again, thanks for the assistance -
Stephanie D. <<Glad to help. Lisa.>> Re: Anemone
feeding/lighting and Tank Upgrade - 5/13/2006 Hi Lisa- <<Hey
Stephanie.>> Thanks for the links to all the anemone information. I
truly appreciate the patience and the lack of flaming at my stupid
questions! <<Not stupid at all!>> All those hours I was browsing
on WWM- how did I miss that (could it have been the beer)? <<Haha,
maybe!>> I'd been looking at all the local stores in my area for a
book on anemones but couldn't find one. My poor anemone was never
"sticky" from day one. I will read some more of the FAQ's, and if I
can't provide a suitable environment for him I will return him rather
than have him slowly die. <<A wise choice if you can’t care for the
animal. Do try though!>> We are planning on upgrading the lighting
but not sure what we're doing beyond that. I've spent time looking over
the site regarding specifics on lighting. Since I can't seem to find
anywhere that sells bowfront hoods (and only the hoods) it looks like we
will be building our own (maybe this weekend!). <<Do you mean a
lighting hood? A normal fixture is fine to use on a bowfront tank. If
you mean a cover, All Glass has a few different types.>> Do you have
a recommendation- lighting type or wattage that I should be looking for
in order to sustain my corals and anemone? <<In the 72, I would
really recommend metal halides. 2- 150 or 175 watt lamps.> I
couldn't seem to find a standard formula for this, and many of the
different postings in the FAQ's give different recommendations. I am
once again thoroughly confused but I truly want to provide the correct
environment for the marine life I have, rather than return them to the
LFS. <<I understand. It can be confusing. Do look for a unit/bulbs
of 6,500K-10,000K >> Again, thanks for your patience and for helping
to "get the word out" about proper fish care. It helps us ignorant but
well-intentioned fish lovers immensely. <<If only everyone was so
well-intentioned!>> Stephanie D. <<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Anemone Feeding, Food Types And Frequency - 03/15/2006 Hi.
<Hello.> I have been searching yours and other websites and am
having a hard time getting a straight answer on this question. I have a
Condy who seems healthy and happy. Just got him, is accepting food right
away. Gets natural sunlight, will be upgrading our lighting system to
250 watt metal halide. The question: How much and how often do I feed
our Condy? Twice a day? Twice a week? <Once to twice weekly.> We
are feeding him minced, thawed shrimp...he seems to like it very much.
Should I vary it or is just the fresh minced shrimp enough. <Best to
offer variety. Meaty marine foods (fish flesh, crab, shrimp) only.>
Again, How much and how often? Thanks...Melissa and Micah <Read
up here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyfdgfaq.htm and on through the
related links. Hope that helps. - Josh>
Finding a Reliable
Source to Answer my Anemone Questions Regarding my Reef 11/7/05
Hi, I have 90 gallon reef aquarium. Although I have had freshwater
fish since I was 7, and have poured over many books, many of my
questions about my reef tank remained unanswered. I am fascinated
with anemones, however, they do not seem to be a resident of the coral
reef. Surely not a preferred neighbor. Is this correct? <Symbiotic
anemones do live in, on, near coral reefs... just not necessarily
amongst other cnidarians, some in the mud...> They are an
opportunistic predator. <Mmm, semi-so... most are to a degree
photosynthetic... some are less than opportunistic, non-predators...
many large species consume a great deal of detritus, fecal material...
filter feeding...> Some are more docile than others, but do they
really belong in a reef tank? <Some... specialized ones...> One of
the first residents in my tank was a Curly que anemone. He was happy
until I started adding other corals such as button polyps. <Bingo>
It was chemical warfare. The little guy wouldn't give up. Even though
they were on opposite sides of the tank the curly que continued to spew
mucus on his new neighbors. His efforts ended only when the stress
overcame him. <Well stated> All that was left of my tank were my 2
fish, an ocellaris clownfish and my blue mandarin goby, one lonely hairy
mushroom, and a dwarf blue hermit crab. The curly que was beautiful,
but I have since been to the Caribbean where they originate from. In the
reefs there I saw no sign of the curly que or any anemone for that
matter. Tons of fish, sea urchins the size of basket balls, and many
other unique species... but no anemones. <<Odd, have observed
many, many anemone species in the areas of the Caribbean I have visited
(admittedly limited to Puerto Rico, most often around the area of La
Bahia Fosforescente - there are several phosphorescent bays/lagoons in
Puerto Rico and surrounding islands - and other areas around La
Parguera, Bahia Salinas, Borinquen beach) in very shallow waters,
including the beautiful Stoichactis helianthus, as well as your
Bartholomea annulata. Marina>> I just set up a 45 gallon
aquarium specifically for the 3 new curly ques that I have purchased. To
keep form having another war, but is there anything else I could have
done? <Run your spell, grammar checker> <...? They may not "get
along" with each other> I don't think any amount of filtration
systems could have keep the anemone from sensing it's surroundings. I
have a Eheim profession 2, and a few other systems hooked up to my 90
gallon. I have the outer Orbit lighting with 560 watts for lighting.
What would have caused the little guy to have such an upset over a few
neighbors? <... vital programmed potential... to exclude competitors
for food, space, light...> especially if they're across the tank. I
hope you have some ideas. I don't want to repeat this mishap. Thank
you, Rykna Olson <Keep reading, seeking to understand... facts,
their interrelationships, your relation to them. Bob Fenner>
Bubble Tip Feeding vs. Condy Feeding - The Problem Child Hi
WWM Crew, <<Hello Thuy. Marina this morning.>> I love your
site. I literally spend hours reading through problems and advice to
find the right mix of answers to solve my problem. I have a 20G,
with LR/LS, 1 yellow tail damsel, who gets along fine with my “Nemo”
Ocellaris, which I acquired from a friend that wanted a gold maroon
he saw at an LFS that responded to nearly any anemone it
encountered. It was pretty cool. (I wanted a blue tang instead of
the damsel but I know it gets big and my tank is way too small for
it). I also have A bicolor blenny that hides a lot, but is cute when
he comes out; a cleaner shrimp; tiny hermit crab with plenty of
empty shells, some snails, and a colony of button polyps.
<<Sounds like a nice mix you have there.>> Anyways, I just
recently acquired a BTA and a small Condy from an LFS that had to
move out of the building. (these will be my last tank mates for this
tank, I hope to take over a 55 Gallon soon =D to upgrade). <<I
sure do hope so, too. 20 gallons is too little territory for the two
anemones together. The Condylactis, ok, but the BTA..
questionable.>> The Condy is so simple to feed, because it sits
upright and eats anything I drop on its tentacles, and food seems to
stick to it better. <<Slightly stronger nematocysts. Plus, some
animals are like weeds, it seems that the stuff you don't REALLY
want is the stuff that does the best in a given environment. Take
Aiptasia for instance.. or don't. ;-)>> But the Bubble is so much
harder, since it likes to sit sideways on my rock.
 
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<<Well, it takes a little more attention, but should accept small
bits of food blown into its tentacles.>> I looked at your site
and found awesome advice like the ones below. Food seems to fly away
from the BTA when I try to feed it. I think I need to mash up the
meat more to blow towards the BTA like you guys have said. This
really isn’t a question, just liked your advice and wanted to make a
distinction that my Condy is like the easy child, and my BTA
requires more attention, but both are well worth it =D. <<Ah, yes
indeed!>> The "Nemo" seems to like my button polyps... but is now
curious of the Condy, noticeably acclimating to it, (seems painful
to watch too). <<Not at all. It seems that clowns "know" that
rules were made to be broken, don't they?>> The mouth is not to
be fed, but rather the tentacles. Stimulate receptiveness by putting
a very small amount of food or thawed pack juice (literally just a
quarter or half teaspoon) into the aquarium about 15-30 minutes
prior to feeding. Also, be sure to thaw frozen food in the fridge or
cold water to retain nutritive quality... but strain and discard
this liquid just prior to feeding (scrubbing excess nutrients from
pack juice to avoid feeding a nuisance algae bloom in the aquarium).
Once thawed, ameliorate the mysids/meats in a slurry of aquarium
water and gently squirt this in a stream towards the anemones
tentacles Try using a length of tubing connected to a turkey baster
to gently direct thawed, frozen Mysis shrimp or plankton into the
tentacles. <<I believe you're quoting here, yes? Another method
that allows much greater control is to get, if you CAN, a large
volume syringe, such as those used for equine/bovine care. Turkey
basters and bulb syringes (a.k.a. snot suckers) require a really
finely tuned hand to control well. I ALWAYS end up making a mess of
things using those.>> Thanks for all the advise and hard work on
this website. TT <<You and all others are most welcome. It seems
our intended purpose do hit the mark. Marina>> | 
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