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FAQs on Condylactis Anemone Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Condylactis Anemones,
Anemones,
Anemones of the Tropical West Atlantic,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs: Condylactis 1,
Condylactis 2, Anemone Feeding, Condylactis
Identification, Condylactis
Compatibility, Condylactis Behavior,
Condylactis Selection, Condylactis
Systems, Condylactis Disease,
Condylactis Reproduction,
Atlantic Anemones 1, Atlantic Anemones
2,
Anemones,
Anemones 2,
LTAs, Clownfishes & Anemones,
Anemone Systems,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Identification, Anemone
Compatibility,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, | 
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Condy feeding - Formula 1 Frozen? 06/06/2008
Hi WWM Crew,
<Bill>
I have a 55G saltwater tank, with a pile (sorry, don't know
the total weight) of live rock and 3G homebrewed skimmer/refugium.
<Together? Neat!>
Livestock includes a pair of yellow topped chromis,
a blue-green chromis, half a dozen ghost shrimp, a dozen or so
thin-striped and dwarf white legged hermit crabs, countless tube worms,
20 or more Stomatella snails (3 came in with LR and they breed like
rabbits) and a healthy supply of amphipods and copepods (enough that if
I miss their mid-day feeding, the yellow-tops kick up the sand with
their tails and snatch a snack out of the sand cloud.)
<Very good>
SG typically is .024 to .025
<With a 1 in front>
- getting better
at keeping stable since I added a home-brewed top-off system. It has a
light sensor, so it drips make-up water only at night - re: WWM
recommendations to only dose Kalk at night - and the Kalk dosing has
made a marked difference in growth rates of coralline algae for me.
Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates don't register at test (but I assume are
there and being consumed.) Ph is typically at 8.3
<Good>
I've
recently added a Condylactis anemone, which very quickly moved to a spot
with decent water flow, and settled in. It looks well.
I feed the
fish Ocean Nutrition Formula Two flakes twice a day, and Formula One
Frozen twice a day. From the Condy Feeding FAQs, I get finely diced
meaty foods are the best, and it has readily accepted shrimp and Formula
One (thawed of course.)
My question - Is Ocean Nutrition Formula One
Frozen food meaty enough and containing enough variety to be a steady
diet on its own for the Condy, or should I be hitting it often with
other raw meat foods (shrimp, fish, clam, etc?)
<Is fine of and by
itself. Completely nutritious>
Also, the FAQs recommend feeding 2 to
3 times a week - but how much?
<Look to the behavior of the
organism... if open, full most of the time, it is receiving enough>
This critter is about 1 to 1.5 inches across the foot - spreading its
tentacles out maybe 5 or so inches across.
Thanks
<This is about
"it" for the genus. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Anemone Feeding,
Food Types And Frequency - 03/15/2006
Hi.
<Hello.>
I
have been searching yours and other websites and am having a hard time
getting a straight answer on this question. I have a Condy who seems
healthy and happy. Just got him, is accepting food right away. Gets
natural sunlight, will be upgrading our lighting system to 250 watt
metal halide. The question: How much and how often do I feed our Condy?
Twice a day? Twice a week?
<Once to twice weekly.>
We are
feeding him minced, thawed shrimp...he seems to like it very much.
Should I vary it or is just the fresh minced shrimp enough.
<Best to
offer variety. Meaty marine foods (fish flesh, crab, shrimp) only.>
Again, How much and how often?
Thanks...Melissa and Micah
<Read
up here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyfdgfaq.htm and on through the
related links. Hope that helps. - Josh>
Condylactis
Lighting/Feeding - 02/22/06
I've read many of your
lighting/feeding articles and am having a little trouble determining if
my lighting/feeding is adequate for my giant Condy.
<<Mmm,
ok...let's see if I can help.>>
I have a 46 gal tank that's about 16
to 17" in depth. The Condy is situated in a crevice of rock at the
bottom of the tank. I have a light from a previous tank that overhangs
this tank a bit (it's a 4' light on a 3'tank). Since I already invested
in the light for a tank that cracked I really wanted to see if I could
continue to use it.
<<I see>>
Here are the specifications of the
light:
Orbit 4 X 65 watt PC fixture.
It contains SunPaq Dual
Daylight (10,000K & 6,700K), Dual Actinic (460nm & 420nm) and a Lunar
Light 2-65w Dual Daylight & 2-65w Dual Actinic lamps
<<Ok, got
it...I think. This is probably "enough" light on this tank for the
Condy, though it would appreciate/benefit from replacing one of the
actinic bulbs with another daylight bulb.>>
I run the Daylight
lights from 8:00am to 5:00pm and the Actinic lights from 7:00am to
6:00pm. I also have some Xenia in the tank that is growing nicely and
spreading. Other members include a large clown who came along with the
Condy, a goby, a cleaner shrimp, a hermit crab, and a reef lobster.
<<I'd keep an eye on the lobster...will likely dine on its tankmates
sooner or later.>>
All get along nicely.
<<For now>>
I feed
small amounts twice a day. The clown rounds up as much shrimp and
formula 1 as it can and eagerly stuffs the food into the Condy. Should
I be feeding the Condy in addition to this? If so, what?
<<If the
pieces are small enough...and you can truly ascertain the anemone is
ingesting the food (and keeping it in!), then fine, let the clown feed
the anemone. But much of the time, what the fish gives the anemone is
not really accepted even though it seems the anemone eats. These
animals really prefer food items much smaller than most people
realize. Do try target feeding "diced/minced" meaty foods (not brine
shrimp!) and see how the anemone responds.
The Condy and clown are
new to the tank and look great!
Thanks for your help - you folks are
great!
Frank
<<Welcome Frank. Regards, EricR>>
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Bubble Tip Feeding vs. Condy Feeding - The Problem Child
Hi
WWM Crew,
<<Hello Thuy. Marina this morning.>>
I love your
site. I literally spend hours reading through problems and advice to
find the right mix of answers to solve my problem.
I have a 20G,
with LR/LS, 1 yellow tail damsel, who gets along fine with my “Nemo”
Ocellaris, which I acquired from a friend that wanted a gold maroon
he saw at an LFS that responded to nearly any anemone it
encountered. It was pretty cool. (I wanted a blue tang instead of
the damsel but I know it gets big and my tank is way too small for
it). I also have A bicolor blenny that hides a lot, but is cute when
he comes out; a cleaner shrimp; tiny hermit crab with plenty of
empty shells, some snails, and a colony of button polyps.
<<Sounds like a nice mix you have there.>>
Anyways, I just
recently acquired a BTA and a small Condy from an LFS that had to
move out of the building. (these will be my last tank mates for this
tank, I hope to take over a 55 Gallon soon =D to upgrade).
<<I
sure do hope so, too. 20 gallons is too little territory for the two
anemones together. The Condylactis, ok, but the BTA..
questionable.>>
The Condy is so simple to feed, because it sits
upright and eats anything I drop on its tentacles, and food seems to
stick to it better.
<<Slightly stronger nematocysts. Plus, some
animals are like weeds, it seems that the stuff you don't REALLY
want is the stuff that does the best in a given environment. Take
Aiptasia for instance.. or don't. ;-)>>
But the Bubble is so much
harder, since it likes to sit sideways on my rock. 
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<<Well, it takes a little more attention, but should accept small
bits of food blown into its tentacles.>>
I looked at your site
and found awesome advice like the ones below. Food seems to fly away
from the BTA when I try to feed it. I think I need to mash up the
meat more to blow towards the BTA like you guys have said. This
really isn’t a question, just liked your advice and wanted to make a
distinction that my Condy is like the easy child, and my BTA
requires more attention, but both are well worth it =D.
<<Ah, yes
indeed!>>
The "Nemo" seems to like my button polyps... but is now
curious of the Condy, noticeably acclimating to it, (seems painful
to watch too).
<<Not at all. It seems that clowns "know" that
rules were made to be broken, don't they?>>
The mouth is not to
be fed, but rather the tentacles. Stimulate receptiveness by putting
a very small amount of food or thawed pack juice (literally just a
quarter or half teaspoon) into the aquarium about 15-30 minutes
prior to feeding. Also, be sure to thaw frozen food in the fridge or
cold water to retain nutritive quality... but strain and discard
this liquid just prior to feeding (scrubbing excess nutrients from
pack juice to avoid feeding a nuisance algae bloom in the aquarium).
Once thawed, ameliorate the mysids/meats in a slurry of aquarium
water and gently squirt this in a stream towards the anemones
tentacles Try using a length of tubing connected to a turkey baster
to gently direct thawed, frozen Mysis shrimp or plankton into the
tentacles.
<<I believe you're quoting here, yes? Another method
that allows much greater control is to get, if you CAN, a large
volume syringe, such as those used for equine/bovine care. Turkey
basters and bulb syringes (a.k.a. snot suckers) require a really
finely tuned hand to control well. I ALWAYS end up making a mess of
things using those.>>
Thanks for all the advise and hard work on
this website. TT
<<You and all others are most welcome. It seems
our intended purpose do hit the mark. Marina>> | 
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HELP! new anemone owner!
Hey Bob. I constantly read your FAQs
they are great!
Here's my problem. I just bought a new Haitian pink
tipped anemone. It has been at the LFS for months and months so I know
it's in good condition with no cuts or anything. <<Sadly, these can look
fine for months and months, but actually be in serious decline from lack
of proper light and foodstuffs.>> but there's one problem, when I put a
shrimp pellet or something in its oral disk, it's tentacles sort of fold
up around the food like normal and it eats it, but no sting. Shouldn't
it be at least a little bit sticky? <<I would think so, but this does
vary from species to species.>> It might have stung me once or twice but
it was so faint that I could barely feel it. <<Well also on the hands
where calluses are the thickest. I bet if you stuck it higher up your
arm it would feel different.>> please help me I really like this little
guy and want to keep him alive!
Clint
<<Well, Clint, the trick now
will be lighting, circulation, and feeding. If you've got adequate
lighting then you're off to a good start. I would continue feeding,
perhaps moving to something besides pellet foods, to something like
frozen silversides. Keep a close eye on your water quality. Cheers, J --
>> Condy
Hi Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
A
quick question regarding my anemone....I've never really fed him and I
have read quite a lot on this site. I did however feed him lately with
some minced krill.
<very fine... it is important in the big picture
to feed fine/minced foods>
Afterwards he just never blossomed again.
<totally unrelated>
Its been about two weeks....his colour doesn't
seem to be off , but he's just not doing anything.
<do check
complete water quality... is your alkalinity low or has your salinity
strayed?>
I concerned about he rest of the system, what should I
be careful of?
<if you have had this animal for weeks or even some
months without feeding, then you are at least looking at a problem with
attrition/starvation. Some hang on for weeks... others go many months,
but all underfed anemones will die within a year to say the least.
Confirm that water quality is fine and coax with various meaty foods of
marine origin>
Roland
<best regards, Anthony> My
Boyfriend Bought Me...Condy!
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F. with you
tonight!>
I need some help!!!! I recently bought a Haitian pink tip
anemone, and I need some information. I purchased some frozen food for
it today, recommended by a local pet store. When I feed it do I need to
cut it up or leave it in cubes??
<Definitely cut up the food into
smaller pieces, and don't overfeed. You can squirt some of the food into
the anemones tentacles with a turkey baster (very appropriate this time
of year!).
How do I care for it?? When I bought it I didn't ask
too many questions, cause I thought that my boyfriend knew what to do
with it!
Please Help
Thanks Christie
<Well, Christie, first
thing that you need to do is slap that guy! You now know never to buy
any animal, especially an anemone, before you study up on it! Enough
lecture...Fortunately, these are the among the hardiest of anemones.
However, they still require bright light, vigorous current, and clean,
stable water conditions in order to thrive. They can get quite large and
very colorful with proper care. They generally will not host
Clownfishes, being a Caribbean species, however, larger Clownfishes,
such as Tomato clowns, do sometimes take up residence in them. These
anemones can and will move around in the tank until they find a spot
that's just to their liking, so make sure that all filter intakes,
powerheads, etc., are configured so that the anemone is not accidentally
drawn in and injured or killed should it wander around. With attention
to the environment, and proper care, these anemones can live for many,
many years. Do a search on this species using the Google search feature
on the wetwebmedia.com site for more information. Good luck! Scott F.>
New with Anemone
Hi. I have a pink tip Condylactis when I got up
this morning is was a white ball but after the lights came on it came
out is this normal?? and how often should I feed ??
<there is so much
to learn here my friend... you really need to get the information needed
on animal husbandry before you buy an animal... please, my friend...
respect for living creatures. Most anemones die prematurely because
people see a cheap and cool addition to their tank but have no means to
care for it properly. Anemones in fact are more demanding than most
corals for light and water quality. Do you have full reef lighting for
this creature? Nitrates are near zero? For feeding, please feed meaty
foods of marine origin (mysids, Pacifica plankton... never brine shrimp
though... all frozen)... very fine or minced... never larger than
1/4"even though they will sting it (large chunks can tear, harm or kill
in time). My advice to you is to spend some time in our wetwebmedia.com
archives reading articles and FAQs on anemone husbandry. Begin on this
page (scroll down for anemone info):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Best
regards, Anthony>
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