Marine Livestock, Whlse, Actinarian sel...   2-14-08
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Manie>
I recently opened my retail outlet in Windhoek, Namibia and hope to specialize in marine aquatics in the future as I try to read up and gather more information in this field. I have received a copy of The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by one of my clients and was very impressed, needless to say I refer to it all the time and regard it as my marine bible. I wish I have been handed this book earlier as I recently landed my first marine shipment from Sri-Lanka and would have avoided certain species you refer to as unsuitable for aquarium keeping. My threadfins, raccoons, vagabonds, Klein's are eating well, but Regal Angel, Chaetodon collare, Chaetodon melannotus, Chaetodon plebeius, Chaetodon xanthocephalus, Chaetodon falcula are all not taking various foods I tried to offer. Lesson learned. I would like to ask your opinion on the green carpet anemone ( Parasicyonis A) as I was told it should not be in an aquarium as it releases all its stinging cells into the water if hurt or damaged killing fishes, is there any truth in this as I find it somewhat exaggerated?
<Mmm, need to be sure of the actual species here... Some places this genus is given as a synonym for the Bubble-tip, Entacmaea... I would NOT sell/import actual Parasicyonis species for resale>
Thanks for a great book as it will surely assist in my consideration regarding future species I order.
Best Regards,
Manie van der Merwe
<Pleased to make your acquaintance. Please do familiarize yourself with our website: WetWebMedia.com, a collective effort at providing up-to-date information and inspiration re the hobby, business and science of ornamental aquatics. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Anemone Selection, Fish Selection – 9/29/07
<Hello, Brenda here>
Just had a quick question about which readily available anemone would be the hardiest for a beginner/novice aquarist such as myself. I would like to put it into a well established (10+ month) 55 gallon.
<Bubble Tip Anemone (BTA) is the hardiest, but still considered delicate.>
I have 1-96w 10000k PC, and 1-96w actinic PC. The tank is 18 inches deep.
<This lighting is not enough for a clown hosting anemone.>
I have a decent skimmer, and a canister filter which will soon be using Chemi Pure Elite. Ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates are always at 0, and pH is almost always 8.3-8.4. Alkalinity 200+. Everything seems to be doing great in the tank, and I’m currently setting up another tank to house my GSPs. Also, another question, I’m looking for something decently rare, somewhat hardy, that would do well in a 20g, and is reef safe. I have seen a couple of things that would make a good addition, but I would like a mated pair of something that is pretty hard to find.
<It will be tough, if not impossible to find something rare and a mated pair. Fish that breed in captivity are usually readily available. A 20 gallon tank is going to limit you more. I would check www.liveaquaria.com under “Diver’s Den” and “Collector’s Corner”. Fellow crew member Mich suggests a Helfrichi, but will be tough to even find a bonded pair.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=171&N=0 >
Thank you much!!
<You’re welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>

Anemone & Clams in 40G Tank.   9/12/07
Hello,
<Hi Jeff, Mich here.>
Firstly, I would like to say thank-you for all of the great advice.
<On behalf of Bob and the crew you're welcome!>
It must be frustrating having all of these questions that you have to answer.
<I suppose, to some, at times... but generally I don't think we'd do it, if some sort of pleasure weren’t derived from it.>
I currently own a 12g Deluxe Nano Cube with LR, 1 percula clown and 3 hermit crabs. I am thinking about upgrading to a new tank:
•40G Long (48"x12"x16")
•Coralife 48" Aqualight Power Compact Strip Light- 4x64Watt (lighting)
•Aquarium Pharmaceuticals RENA Cal Top Light 200W (heater)
•Aquarium Systems Visi-Jet Protein Skimmer (Skimmer)
<I'm not familiar with this skimmer, but suspect there may be better options, AquaC and Euro-reef do come highly recommended.>
•Marineland Penguin 200B (Power Filter)
•(2) Pentair Aquatics Lifegard Quiet One- 800 (Powerheads)
I would like to accommodate the following fish/inverts/corals:
•2 Percula Clowns
•1 Rose Bubble Tip Anemone or Green Carpet Anemone
<This is quite a small system to house such a potential for disaster. Given these choices the RBT is a much better option. The green carpet is absolutely inappropriate for all but the very largest of systems.>
•1Royal Gramma
•2Firefish
•2Crocea Clams
•6 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
•3 Cowry Snails
<Many require large systems in order to provide sufficient food. Please research the species before making your purchase.>
•Pumping Xenia
•Mushrooms
•Button Polyps
<The livestock list seems reasonable with the exception of the anemone. I must admit my personal bias here as I have seen them more or less wipe out entire systems and I'm generally not a big fan of people keeping them unless they are really dedicated to these creatures. Anemones tend to go for walks at the most inopportune times. The anemone could cause a catastrophe in such a tiny system.>
Will my system be properly equipped for these animals?
<Seems to be.>
The lighting is 6.5wpg. I think this should be okay for this anemone and clam.
<I would keep the clams high and close to the light.>
I just want to check with you guys so I can't make any horrible mistakes.
<Oh, you can always make horrible mistakes... with or without consultation! Murphy inevitably makes his rounds.>
I have the skimmer and the power filter.
<OK.>
I am hoping this will be sufficient.
<Worth a try if you have it, if its not cutting it, then upgrade.>
Thanks in advance for the help, Jeff
<Welcome! Mich>

H. magnifica, Lighting, Feeding – 7/3/07
Ok, here is the story:
In the past I have lost 2, H. magnifica's that arrived in perfect condition. I kept them in my tank under T5 with independent parabolic reflectors. Many people will blame it on the light. However my light is keeping the most demanding SPS under perfect conditions.
<I would have to agree this is not adequate lighting for this species. This anemone needs higher lighting than the most demanding SPS. I also don’t recommend keeping corals with this anemone.>
My LFS who build my tank and is a total expert, said that he kept an H. magnifica for 3 years under T8s! The anemone finally died because some idiot put in a fish that had been washed with a copper solution.
<I’m not convinced this was the only factor involved in the anemone’s death.>
He said then the secret was not so much on the light but on the water quality and the diet.
<Lighting, water quality, flow and diet are all huge factors in the survival of this anemone.>
The diet consisted on mixing good brand of flake foods with water until it became liquid, then he would grab a syringe without needle of course, and pour the liquid food into the anemones mouth.
<Ouch! Force feeding an anemone is not recommended. This can be very stressful on an anemone. Flake food is not an adequate diet for any anemone. They need small portions of meaty foods.>
This seemed interesting because my H. Magnifica's never ate the pieces of shrimp I gave them, I placed them inside its mouth and it just threw it out.
<Again, never place food in an anemones mouth. Their tissue is very delicate, if torn, your anemone may quickly parish. If your anemone won’t willingly take the shrimp, try something different. Small portions of Silversides, Mysis Shrimp, Lance fish, etc. That syringe should only be used to get the food to the tentacles of the anemone, without actually touching the anemone. An anemone will regurgitate what it is unable to digest. Force feeding or too large of portions was likely the cause of it regurgitating. Start out with tiny portions and never feed anything bigger than the anemones mouth.>
So has anyone tried to feed liquid foods into a delicate anemone's mouth?. Do they accept it this way?
<I’m not aware of anyone force feeding liquid foods.>
I blame their deaths on the fact they were rather large and never ate.
<Anemones are considered difficult to keep. This anemone is considered most difficult to keep. Collection and shipping alone can be deadly for this species. It is probable that they wouldn’t eat because of the stress caused from the collection and shipping. Many, including myself, believe this anemone should be left in the ocean. This anemone is dieing at a faster rate in captivity than it is reproducing in the wild. I hope this helps! Brenda>

Nano Tank Critique - 6/25/07
Hello-
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Thank you for providing all the help and (seemingly) endless supply of knowledge in regard to saltwater aquariums. I read about 1-2 hours (or more) per night of your site, and feel l will never be able to read everything. This is truly an addictive, and enjoyable hobby.
<I agree on both points!>
My tank is as follows:
-20gal high nano tank
-Aquaclear 30 filter
-standard florescent lighting
-Fission Nano Skimmer
-Maxi Jet 600 powerhead
-1inch very fine (sugar) grade sand bed
-about 7 lbs live rock with a ton of surface area (all small pieces) and also ornamental rock. I plan on adding about 1 lb live rock per week until I hit about 15 lbs
-ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, all zero
-ph is 8.3
-SG is 1.025
<Sounds good so far!>
For fish - I have 2 small (1 inch) false Percula Clowns
1 Bicolor Blenny (2 inches)
1 Firefish (2 inches)
-all are doing well and eating well.
<Good to hear...>
I also have a Scarlet Hermit Crab and 2 snails (about 1/2 in shells, +/-)The only live animals I plan on adding are some more inverts - more for the 'workload' than appearance (any suggestions??) and about 6 months or so down
the line, a small, hardy anemone.
<Oh...Well- I have to give my two cents on the anemone. Really, I'd avoid an anemone in any small system. My rational is twofold: First, water quality and environmental stability are so important to anemones, and the challenges of keeping such stability in a small volume of water are many. Second, you really need high intensity lighting (ie; metal halides) for overall anemone health, and such lighting can potentially overheat a small system.>
Questions:
Is there anything about the setup that is jumping out at you saying "what are you thinking?!"
<The anemone is the only thing that really stands out as a potential problem.>
-Is the bioload too much for this system?
<No, but I would not add any more fishes.>
-how do you feel about dry foods such as plankton/krill/etc. I normally feed frozen.
<I'm a big fan of frozen foods myself. I rarely, if ever feed dry foods. Nothing bad about most dried foods-I just like the "control" I get from thawing, cleaning and feeding frozen foods.>
-My skimmer has only been up and running for about 12 hours... How long should it take to start collecting the skimmate (I have been reading, but there's not a whole lot about Fission skimmers on the site)... That I could find.
<Give it a day or so. If you're not getting skimmate, further adjustment may be necessary to get production.>
Thank you very much for the help!
Eric
<My pleasure, Eric. Sounds like you're on the right track! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Nano Tank Critique (Pt2) - 06/27/07
Thank you for the quick response about my nano, and after some reading, I agree with you about the anemone..
<I'm glad that you did. In reality, anemones just don't do well in the long-term in most cases. The vast majority expire in mere months; others may hang on for a year or two and then die "mysteriously". Their husbandry requirements are still not completely understood, and they simply should not be attempted in anything less than a fully dedicated system, IMO.>
Will 'fake' anemones work to 'host' the
clowns? I know that's a wide statement with variables, but "generally speaking?"...
<Hmm.. Hard to say. The bottom line is that most of the Anemonefishes that are offered for sale are captive bred; many have never even seen an anemone, let alone lived among one. They might instinctively go to a real or fake one, but it's really a dice roll!>
I actually have an idea/suggestion about Fission Nano Skimmers... I was reading a lot about protein skimmers and I think I found something that will work a LOT better for this particular model. I read that in order to get the best production out of a skimmer, the intake needs to be near the top inch or so of water, where most of the proteins collect (correct phrasing?.. I think you know what I mean)... If you set up the Fission exactly how it recommends, it puts the intake at about 6-8 inches below the surface. To fix that-- (carefully, the plastic seems a bit fragile... haven't had any problems yet...) It's a bit hard to explain w/ words, but essentially if you utilize the 2 elbow joints that are included and rotate the pump location so that the pump and skimmer section are side by side and the intake is on the top side of the pump, it puts the intake within an inch of the top surface. After a bit of adjustment I saw much improved production and it's really pulling out some gross stuff..
<Excellent! Thanks for sharing! You are right on about surface-active proteins..>
Just thought I'd throw that out there.
Thanks again for the fantastic site and quick responses.
Eric
<And thank YOU, Eric, for sharing your idea...That's what WWM is all about! Regards, Scott F.>

Heteractis Crispa Anemone... sel., comp., sys.
Hi crew,
<François-Étienne>
I've read a lot of information on your site about the Sebae anemone, Heteractis Crispa and I was considering buying one by the end of this summer. Before I do so, I wanted to ask you some questions.
<Please do>
I have a 110g aquarium. 4 foot long and 30 inches high. I started this tank in November 2005. I have 150 lbs of live rock and a DSB made of aragonite on the bottom. I keep several types of corals (mostly soft corals) but some LPS and a Montipora. I do have a pretty high bioload (fish) but I have really good water quality and I never had any problems with it. For the fish, I have a pair of true percula clowns that could host the anemone. For the flow, I have 4 powerheads (each of them is safe for the anemone; they are well protected). They are Hagen powerheads. I know these aren't really great but they've done a good for me since now.
<Actually, their powerheads are one of Hagen's best product lines IMO>
I'll change for better powerheads in the future :) . For the light issue, I have Geissmann MH lighting. I have two 150 watts bulbs + two 54 watts actinics. The MH are placed at about 8 inches from the surface of the water. I have a Deltec skimmer: mc 500. I don't have a sump.
I wanted to know:
Do you think my lighting is sufficient for long term survival of Heteractis Crispa?
<Mmm, yes... IF the specimen can be placed more or less directly under one of the MHs>
Does this anemone usually sits on the sand? Could it be on the rocks?
<Is found buried in sediment... not likely to be happy on rock...>
I was planning to place it in the upper part of the tank. On a rock where there would be some indirect flow toward the anemone. If it only sits on the sand than would it be ok even if the tank is 30 inches high ( btw, I'm keeping a healthy Crocea clam on the bottom since one year) ?
<Mmm, this animal will find its own spot in time...>
I was wondering about the comparison between H. magnifica and H. crispa. Do these anemones require the same amount of light?
<No... the Magnificent requires much more>
Which of them fares best in captivity?
<The Sebae by far>
Is there a major difference between H. magnifica and H. crispa?
<Huge differences... see WWM re... the former is the second largest anemone (after Stichodactyla mertensii) used in the trade and by Amphiprionines... up to a meter across...>
Is the survivability rate of Sebae anemone much higher of the one of the Magnificent sea anemone? Just wondering...
<Again, yes. The only superior aquarium species IMO is the Bubbletip/Entacmaea... see WWM re...>
I also wanted to tell you about this: I have in my tank 3 little ( half an inch; really little) bleached bubble anemone. Could there be a chemical war between the H. crispa and the little bubble anemones?
<Mmm, possibly, yes... though in a system of this size, age... I give you good odds...>
The anemones bleached a month ago when I was not at home...
Thanks for reading me,
Have a good day
François-Étienne
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Mann's / Hawaiian Maroon Anemone – 06/11/07
I'm looking for some information (light, feeding, flow etc.) requirements on the Mann's or Hawaiian Maroon anemone (seems to be different than a maroon anemone).
<Mmm: Cladactella manni (Verrill, 1899)...>
These are one of the only Anemones found here in Hawaii
<And rare there... I have never encountered one... having dived the islands hundreds of times.>
and I would like to keep one. The LFS that sells them says that they need turbulent water flow, but not intense lighting. Not too much info. out there, can you help? Thanks in advance, your site is a blessing to the hobby.
Gary
<I am also "in the dark" re this species care... From what little I see on the Net, this species is not easily kept... Please read this one favored account: http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/invertebrateincare/l/blpickhianemone.htm
And do write back with your experiences re this Actiniid. Bob Fenner>

Re: Mann's / Hawaiian Maroon Anemone   – 06/19/07
Well unfortunately this anemone has died! Much like the about.com article mine just slowly shriveled up and began to disintegrate.
<Mmmm, yes>
He slowly started turning soft & his tentacles began to lose their "stickiness". He moved around initially but quickly settled into a spot that he seemed to like. I tried to target feed him some brine after several days of acclimation, but the ones that stuck to his tentacles weren't brought to his mouth and were quickly nabbed by other inhabitants.
System details: I have a 55 gallon system with a live DSB of about 5" and approx. 50.lbs of Molokai Live Rock (www.Hawaiiliverock.com).
<Neat!>
Water quality was excellent with no detectable ammonia, nitrites and/or nitrates. Water flow/filtration is provided by 2 Magnum 350's in each rear corner (only 1 of which is used for carbon, the other is strictly for flow with no media), a larger CA1000 powerhead and an AquaC Remora skimmer. I concur with the about.com article in saying that this particular anemone is probably not suitable for the aquarium (or if it is, its specific needs have yet to be identified).
<We are in agreement here. BTW, likely your message prompted my writing pc.s on the large anemone species used in the trade/hobby... Did Heteractis crispa... Am onto Entacmaea...>
The anemone is collected near over by the Blowhole in the intertidal zone where it receives a lot of turbulent water flow and highly oxygenated water that would be difficult at best to reproduce in the aquarium (I have never seen them while diving either, even at Lanai lookout or the Blowhole dive sites). The funny thing was the anemone's color never really changed and it was pretty difficult to tell that it wasn't doing well, but slowly open wounds began to appear and some of my cleaner crew began trying to feed on these wounds.
I am hoping that my experience combined with the experience documented on about.com will discourage the future purchase and collection of this anemone. Thanks for all that you do for our hobby!
Many Mahalos.
Gary
<Thank you my friend. A hu'i hou! Bob Fenner>

BTA in Nano Tank?   4/11/07
Hello crew
<Hi.>
Tyler Kohring  today
<Adam Jackson on this end.>
I have a 24 gal. reef tank which has had is ups and downs.
<Nanos tend to do that...fickle creatures they are.>
Now it is finally back to normal.
<Good.>
Anyway I  wanted clownfish for a while, but I didn't like the normal perculas so I decided to get two black Australian perculas. * very cool fish *
<Especially the tank-reared versions.>
I have not had them long but they are doing good, one is slightly larger.
<Normal.>
they seem to have paired up and I want to give them a anemone.
I had a bubble tip anemone on mind. Do you think this is a good choice if not can you suggest one?
<Well first I think it is important to mention that clowns in captivity do not need anemones in any sort of way to be happy. In fact most people who breed the animals on a large scale do not use anemones...in fact I don't know one commercial breeder who uses them. If you do get an anemone it is strictly for your enjoyment...the clowns don't care.  Anemones is general are not easy to maintain in captive aquaria, most don't live a year in captivity. Out of all of the choices, E. quadricolor, the BTA is probably the best choice, but that's not to say they are easy by any means.  If you do get one, your best bet is to go for a captive reared specimen.  I'll end by saying I do not personally recommend it. I do not like to see anemones placed in nano aquaria, as you've mentioned they have their ups and downs and anemones appreciate very stable environments with low nutrient levels. Be sure to so all your research and read the articles/FAQ's placed on WWM.>
Tank is four months old tank mates: bicolor blenny, Australian perculas, fire fish, Rainford goby, and six line wrasse.
<Tank is a bit overstocked for my liking...being a nano and all.>
Thanks for the help,
<Anytime.>
Tyler Kohring    
<Adam Jackson.>

Anemones and Lighting  - 3/12/07
Hello,
<Hello, Brandon here.>
Can you tell me if this bulb (follow link) would be good to use for anemones, Sebae or Rose and which anemone would be better to keep.  
<Firstly, no this bulb will not be even remotely adequate.  Anemones need much more light.  I would suggest reading up on lighting and different types of lighting here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm  Of the two anemones that you have listed, I would say that the E. quadricolor is the better selection, this is more of a “beginner“ anemone.  I still would suggest much more research on your part before you select an anemone for purchase.  Here is a good place to start, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm >
Also can you mix tomato clowns with other clowns, I've heard they are some what aggressive and territorial.
<As a general rule of thumb you cannot mix clown fish.  They tend to get very territorial, and this can lead to deaths.  There was a point in time that I had no choice but to keep four Premnas biaculeatus together in a 75 gallon tank.  This did not go very well.  It is possible to keep juveniles together as long as they are juveniles.  It would be extremely helpful to know what size volume of water we are talking about housing your prospective purchases in.>
http://cgi.ebay.com/24-in-REEF-SUN-ZOO-MED-AQUARIUM-LIGHT-50-50-close-out_W0QQitemZ220089033820QQcategoryZ46314QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Thanks,
<You are welcome.  Brandon.>
Josh

Re: Keep away from all Anemones or just BTA's?  All Can Go on "Field Trips"   3/4/07
Hi Jason.  
<Nope, it's Mich, Jason wrote the original question, and I answered the question.  Anyway, a big hello to you Pam.>
I was reading your reply to someone (below).  
<That would be Jason.>
Should you keep away from ALL Anemones, or just all BTA's ?
<All can go on "field trips">
Would a Rose Anemone or Maroon Anemone be any less likely to roam the tank and cause a possible disaster?  (I heard the same thing about an anemone attaching to an overflow causing a flood by someone else too).  
<I'm not aware of any differences between species, but all are capable.>
I wanted to get an anemone and a pair of Clowns, hoping that they would pair up, and the BTAs, Rose and Maroon Anemones are recommended for beginners.
<Are beautiful, and wonderful to watch, but can have disastrous consequences.>
Thanks.
Pam
<Welcome!  Mich>

Sleeping beauty... Clownfish beh.    3/4/07
<Greetings, Mich here.>
My false clown fish is always sleeping in the corner of my tank.
<Hmm.>
What is up with this fish?  
<I don't know.  Not much info to work with here.>
I have live rock and numerous cool decorations.  
<Decorations?!?  Are they reef safe decorations?>
Is it necessary to have anemones or corals?
<No and I would encourage you to avoid.>
I don't have one currently.
<Good!  Don't get one!  Check today’s daily FAQ's and you can read my opinion.  I would encourage you to buy a book that I think will be quite helpful to you.  It's called the "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner.  Sounds like you're relatively new to the hobby and even if you aren't, this book belongs on the shelf of every saltwater hobbyist in my opinion.  -Mich>

First Anemone, what kind should I get? – 2/14/07
Hi Guys.
<Hi Jason, Brenda here>
I love the site, it’s very helpful.
<Thank you Jason, I’m happy to hear you find it helpful.>
I have a 40 gallon tank with a pair of true percula clowns, a yasha hase Shrimpgoby and partner pistol shrimp, and an orchid Dottyback. I would like to add an anemone for the clowns but I’m not to sure which kind. I'm interested in a BTA, possibly a rose one, because I've read they are the hardiest. I am also fairly certain that my tank (36 x 12 x 20) is too small for a sebae, ritteri, or carpet anemones.
<I agree.>
What do you think would be best for my situation?
<Bubble Tip anemones are the hardiest of the clownfish hosting anemones.  However, they are still considered difficult to keep, and are delicate creatures.  With an established aquarium, stable environment, proper equipment and proper knowledge of their requirements they will do well in a 40 gallon.  Once you can provide for one, a Bubble Tip Anemone is a good choice for a first anemone.  More information is available here.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/btaselfaqs.htm >
Thanks, Jason P.
<Your welcome!  Brenda>

Anemones 10/5/06
Hello
<Hi>
First me and my fish thank you as you have been a great help. I've read almost everything you have on anemones (I know you don't recommend them)  but I would really like one for my false perculas even though they aren't necessary.
Here are my specs
30 Gallon
36" Power Compact Coralife brand new
30 Lbs live rock
2 False Perculas 1"
1 Flame angel (2") He will be going back due to concerns of overstocking but I want to wait at least 3 months before I move him I like him and do not want him to die from moving too soon I've had him for 2 weeks.
1 green chromis <1"
Prism Protein skimmer
75 gph Aqualife powerhead
330 Power Filter
Bubble coral, Open Brain, Frogspawn, Fungia plate,  various polyps, xenias, mushrooms, something that looks like a bright green pickle (that is the scientific name right?) <Works for me.>
2 fire shrimp
1 skunk cleaner
1 peppermint shrimp
I've learned through your website I am going to have chemical warfare issues and plan on a bigger tank 75 or 90 next year with a 30 gallon refugium. <Would still be a problem.>  What would be the hardiest anemone that I could get and that has a chance that the
clownfish would host with? <None with corals, all will either have problems or cause them.> Should I just forget the anemone? <I would.> I really want one but I do not want to kill one needlessly and will defer to your expertise. <Premature death would be the most likely outcome.>   
I do regular 5 gallon water changes every week with salt water from a very, very reputable LFS. <Good>  They, by the way, will not sell me one as they say my tank is too small. <True>  They refuse to sell me certain fish, like the flame angel (bought from a different store) which is why I respect them, but I really want one. <Listen to them, sounds like you have a good store there, lucky.>
They will sell me one based on your answer.  
<Sorry, I side with them.  Not a good idea>
Thanks
Paul
<Chris>

Hello, I have a 26g bowfront tank that I wish to set up as an anemone/clown system. - 09/22/06
For lighting I have a 130w orbit pc fixture. For water movement I will be using an AquaClear 110 power filter and a MaxiJet 600 powerhead. I also have 30lbs of CaribSea Aragamax sand. I will be using about 26lbs of premium Fiji LR as well. I have a 24g reef and it has been running great for 6 months, and I have had reefs in the past, so I wanted to do something new. I'm pretty sure the only anemone I would be able to keep would be a BTA, but if possible I would like to try and LTA because I really wanted to do a pair of Orange Skunk clowns. if not, I will more than likely do the BTA with a single maroon clown. My question are, will I be able to keep an LTA under my lighting, and would any other anemones be possible? someone said I could try a carpet as well? if so how often and what should I feed it? There will be no corals in this tank, just the anemone. also, would I be able to do a few of
those colorful rock/flower anemones( Epicystis crucifer) in there as well? if I happen to do the BTA, would I be able to do a pair of gold stripe maroons or would I just have to do a single? I know they get big.
<<Jordan:  I have a LTA in about 5" of sand under 400W MH SE lighting.  The anemone seems to be thriving and is about 18 inches in diameter.  LTA's need a sand bed several inches deep in order to bury their foot.  Since you have never kept an anemone, I suggest looking for a clone of the Bubble Tip Anemone.  They are much easier to keep, can live under less powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't pulled out of the ocean.  Most species of clowns will easily host in them.  I had a pink skunk clown that hosted in my BTA (until he found a way to jump out of the tank).  Best of luck, Roy>
    JB

Anemone Stocking 9/21/06
Hi Wet Web Crew!
<Hello Chris>   
  Tank Param:     
  Temp - 79-81
  S.G. – 1.024
  Ammonia/Nitrite – 0
  Nitrate - <10
  Calcium – 300 (changed calcium supplements to get up to around 400)
  Alk – 10.3
  PO4 - <.2 mg/l
  Lighting – 440 watt VHO
  Supplements – Inland Seas trace element (Iodine, Strontium/Moly)
  Chemical Filtration – Run carbon continuously (about 2 cups changed out monthly at water change).  Just purchased 100 ml of Purigen to use in place of carbon
<Might want to try Chemi-Pure the next time around.  I like this product more than any other chemical filtrant.>
  Water changes occur monthly with about 35 gallons changed
  Inhabitants – various LPS and soft corals (Fiji leather, finger leather, Rhodactis, Ricordea, Discosoma)
  I currently have 3 anemones in my 75 gallon (2 flowers and one Long Tentacle Anemone).  The flowers are about 4-5” in diameter and very healthy and colored.  My long tentacle (about 4”) was purchased bleached and is just now showing signs of regaining the zooxanthellae after being in my system for about 5 months (it was sold to me as a green long tentacle not a bleached one :-( ).  With that being said, I would also like to add one more anemone to my system (I guess I’m a glutton for punishment but I love these guys).  I’ve been thinking about a bubble tip or possibly a sebae.  I’ve read about the difficulties in obtaining healthy H. crispa and H. malu specimens
<These anemones are difficult to keep.>
so I’m leaning more towards the bubble tip.
<One of the easier, though no anemone is easy to keep.>
Now on to the question!!   I’ve heard that anemones in general are pretty bad about allelopathy but does that only occur when the anemone touches another animal or do they simply secrete chemicals into the water to stake their claim to a particular area?
<Allelopathy is generally produced by stinging.  Keep in mind, that in nature, anemones are rarely found mixed with corals.>
If they secrete these toxins into the water I assume that the only method of exporting is through skimming, chemical filtration, and or water changes.
<Chemical filtrants and dilution of the chemical by water changes are the best methods.>
If the toxins are secreted by contact I assume that as long as you have enough room for all,
<In smaller tanks, such as yours, it is better to just keep one anemone.  Multiple anemones can be kept in very large systems, but in doing so, would recommend keeping
anemones of the same specie.>
then everything will be fine as long as the other needs of the animal are met.  Is there a good rule out there as far as how many anemones a system can sustain or is it a rule of if you have enough room and the other conditions (light, current, etc.) are met…go for it?
<Chris, I'm not for keeping anemones with corals.  Enough allelopathy goes on with just corals.  Anemones will move from time to time, and during this
process, they are bound to zap a few corals or other anemones.  Another potential problem...if you are using powerheads with unprotected intakes, anemones
generally will wind up there.  This happens when you are sleeping, or when at work...all part of Murphy's Law.  Anyway, when that happens, the tank
can/will become polluted very quickly, killing most, if not all livestock. If it were me, I'd leave well enough alone, even consider finding a home for
the LTA.  Anemones do best is larger systems, 220 gallons and up, and, even with the best care/conditions, rarely live longer than a year in the home aquarium.   Do read here and linked files above.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  Also read our article(s)/FAQ's on allelopathy.>
Thanks for all the help!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>  
  Chris

NanoCube and Anemone   7/17/06
Hi, Darius Boscarino here. <Hi Darius>
First time writer, long time reader. I recently bought my son a 12 gal dx nano cube. He wants a "Nemo" thanks to that one movie I try to forget about. I'll be doing all the maintenance, but with a clownfish I would like an anemone. I've never done anything with anemones before, but I have read endlessly on your great site about caring for them. So, my questions are, Are any anemones small enough to stay put in a 12 gal that will host an anemone? And, Can too much light be a problem? On nanotuners.com there are custom canopy upgrades that I want to purchase for the tank. Now there are 2 24 watt PCs. They have canopies with 3 24 watt lights and also one with 4. I want the one with 4 to be absolutely sure there is plenty of light. That will be 96 watts for 12 gallons and the tank is only about 12" deep. Which brings me to my next questions. Which canopy
would be suitable? And then what mixture of lighting would be best for the health of the anemone and zooxanthellae? Btw, there will be one clownfish, probably a true or false percula, an anemone, and inverts. Also, the stock pump in the nanocubes is weak, so I upgraded from the 106 gph pump to a 230 gph with a y shaped powerhead for better current adjustment. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
<Either of those clownfish would do very well substituting any of the soft finger type leathers for an anemone….. like a colt coral perhaps.  IMO an anemone would not be suitable for a 12g tank. Just a suggestion… if you are not considering any other fish,  a pair of either one of those clownfish might be more interesting than a single fish.  I would go with the 2 24w pc.s that gives you 4 w/g which would be fine for most of what would be appropriate in that size tank. If you over do the lighting you risk over heating the tank as well as problems with nuisance algae.>
Thank you. Your friend, Darius.
<Your most welcome, Leslie>

Some Improper Livestock Selection for a 30 Gallon Reef - 06/29/06
Hey there guys & gals,
Just had some questions on stocking.
<<Okey dokey>>
I sent an email previously but it might have been to the wrong address, email problems, etc.
<<Mmm, maybe so.  We do strive to answer EVERY query we receive>>
Anyways, I was planning on setting up a 30 gallon reef tank in the near future.  This would be my first saltwater tank, so I don't want to screw it up.
<<Ah, much adventure...and reading/researching ahead>>
I am getting a 150 watt 20000k halide, as well as 2 65 watt actinic blue compact fluorescents (not 03 blue - is this ok?).
<<Depends...what animals do you plan to keep/niche to replicate?  Best to decide what you want to keep/what environment to create, then buy the lighting to suit>>
I will be ordering ~50 lbs live rock (Fiji) and probably some corals (will there be any shipping problems with these?) like bubble, moon, polyps, etc.
<<Some ship better than others...some "shippers" are better than others.  Visit the reef forums (Reef Central, Reefs.org, etc.) and query the members re reliable online sources>>
My question is, could I get an anemone in this tank, or is it too small of a volume?
<<Would depend on the anemone, and if kept as a "specimen display" only.  But I must express...anemones are not for beginners...please do reconsider>>
I was thinking a sebae, but could go with bubble-tip, or other, by your suggestion.
<<My suggestion is that you wait my friend...until such time as you have amassed the experience needed, and can provide the environment necessary, to keep these amazing and virtually immortal creatures alive and healthy>>
I want for my livestock two perculas, two Banggai cardinals, a cleaner shrimp, cleaner wrasse, ~20 hermits, and possibly a goby, but probably not.  Is this appropriate?
<<Mmm, a few things to mention here...the clownfish will likely "take over" this size tank, making keeping more docile species of fishes difficult...the Banggai Cardinal might be able to hold its own against the clowns but unless you get a mated pair you will be better off only getting one as they are fairly intolerant of conspecifics, which is exacerbated in a small system such as this...the cleaner wrasse will starve to death as they are for the most part obligate feeders of the parasites they pick from the fishes.   You don't have enough fish (not even close, so don't even think about it <grin>) to sustain this creature, and more than the wrasse may suffer as it "pesters" the other fish frantically looking for food as it starves.  Better to acquire a cleaner goby (Genus Gobiosoma) as they are more hardy/will take prepared foods.  Be sure to thoroughly research any/all animals you choose BEFORE you purchase>>
If it is overstocked, I can go without the wrasse.
<<Pass on this fish...regardless>>
Also, is it possible to "over-skim"?
<<Would be very difficult to achieve in my opinion...very little concern re>>
I wanted a skimmer rated for 120 gallons, but can go for one rated at 65 gallons if it is more appropriate.
<<I think either is probably fine, but unless you're planning for an upgrade I would get the smaller skimmer for reasons of price/space/energy consumption>>
Thanks!
Eddy
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>

Re:  Livestock Selection for a 30 Gallon Reef - 06/29/06
OK, thanks.
<<Welcome>>
I guess I'll go with the two perculas and probably a goby or blenny or something.  One last question: how the heck do I get metal halide retrofits to go onto my tank?
<<"Retrofits" are intended for attachment to/modification of an existing hood/fixture.  I expect you'll have to "DIY" a hood/fixture for your 30 gallon tank to utilize the retrofit and keep the MH lamps at a suitable distance above the water>>
I'll skip the anemone and cardinals.  By the way, I do have plenty of experience with FW.
<<I don't doubt you, and the experience will serve you well...but still...much to learn re SW systems>>
Thanks again!
<<Always welcome Eddy.  Regards, EricR>>

Ritteri do I have it in me?   6/3/06
Good Afternoon, .....excellent site, you guys ( girls included, no offense) rule.  I have a 50 gal aquarium that I have ran for many years as an exclusive anemone tank (no other creature but anemones.. not even clowns), and I just moved and I am starting it up again.  I have kept just about every type of anemone (Bubble, Sebae, LTA, Carpet...for only a month though, quarantine situation for a friend), but the one that I have never kept was a Ritteri (the one that I always wanted to).  I have a ton of experience with all types of anemones with everything that could go wrong to everything that goes perfectly.  So I am not questioning my abilities or knowledge, just my lighting.  I have (2) 175w MH....1 6500k and the other I think is a 10k or 12k, and (2) 65w actinics.  I have learned through the years (and this lesson was costly) that if you have doubt, it best not to try, so I am asking the experts (yes you).  And I know that even after my tank cycles again it will be at least 6 months before I can put one in.  If you don't think I have the lighting for a Ritteri, what about a carpet long for the term?
Thanks,
Michael
<<Michael:  Many experts consider the Ritteri not only difficult to keep; but, due to their lifespans/infrequent reproduction they should not even be pulled out of the ocean.  It would be a shame to get one and then lose it.  Some people also think that clownfish are good for the well being of the anemones.  As for me, I have RTBA, GTBA, LTA and a Condy under 400W MH lighting.  I also have a RTBA, Condy and Green Carpet under VHO lighting.  I feed the anemones every few days and they seem to be doing well.  All the anemones came with tanks I bought.  If it were me, I would stick with a clone of a RTBA or GTBA.  That way, you're not experimenting on a critter that just got pulled out of the ocean.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Anemone lighting... other cnid. choices - 04/16/06
Dear Bob (or whoever else might receive this FAQ),
<Jodie here on this beautiful afternoon>
My tank has been fully cycled (for the 2nd time) for about three weeks.  It is 40 gallons and the current inhabitants include a yellow tang, goby, and domino clownfish/damsel.
<This is a domino damsel (not clown) who, I hope you understand, will likely grow up to be a holy terror.>
I upgraded my lighting to 175 watt power compacts with built in fans by JBJ. I want to add photosynthetic inverts such as corals or an anemone.
<I cannot/will not recommend an anemone to you with this lighting.>
In your opinion, which species of coral or anemone would you recommend for my relatively immature system?
<No anemones, as they require stable systems and very intense lighting.  Some good beginner softies would be 'shrooms (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm) or the ever-popular zoanthids (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zoanthid.htm).  Both of these are pretty hardy, come in a variety of colors and sizes, and would give you some good (and needed) experience before moving on to more advanced-needs corals.>
Thank you in advance.
<And thank you for letting me flex my spell-checking muscles.  Cheerio,  Jodie>
J. Ferrante

Re: Anemone lighting... other cnid. choices - 04/16/06
Thank you Jodie and just two more brief questions): Isn't that enough light that I have- according to my calculations, that's almost 5 watts per gallon? (well-- almost). To be exact - 4. 44444.  Really, that isn't enough for an anemone?
<This is a matter of personal opinion/experience for me.  I was advised that 3-5 watts per gallon was needed, and yet both BTA and Condy failed to thrive.  Added MH and voila!  Happy anemone.  You could try it, but be prepared in case of a similar scenario.  You didn't mention the depth of your tank -- and yes, this can make a difference.>
Well thanks for making me aware of that then. I guess you need halides for them.
<Again, some may not but in my experience I would recommend it wholeheartedly.>
And another thing- I read the pages you directed me to and is it ok to keep polyps in high nitrate levels ( about 35 ppm). How can I get them down if not?
<Discussed at length on WWM.  Read re: nitrates at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm >
Thanks again in advance,
JF
<John, if you want anemones then you should experiment with some hardy soft corals first, learn how to get/keep your nitrates down, and read-read-read.  Be aware that they have a tendency to wander, stinging things along the way, and sometimes getting sucked into powerheads (yes, killing everything in the tank).  They are beautiful and interesting, but also a huge commitment.  Cheers,  Jodie>
(ahha - used spell check this time-- sorry)
<Much appreciated!  jb>

Anemone selection  2/18/06
Hello from Southern IL,
I am currently running a 6' 125 gal marine tank, with a pair of Penguin 330's, an 8 watt UV, and a Sea Clone 150, and a pair of 36" Coralife 10,000k bulbs.  It currently houses 3 Pajama Cardinals, a Powder Blue Surgeon, a Foxface Lo, a Domino Damsel, an Ocellaris Clown, a Tomato Clown, 2 Red Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, a Pin cushion Urchin, and assorted snails and hermit crabs.  All livestock are in good health, and water parameters are acceptable save a fluctuating Nitrate level.  With that information, what anemones might be acceptable in this tank?  Also, the Ocellaris is rather territorial.  Will that be a problem in introducing an anemone?  <Jacob, your light intensity is much too low for keeping anemones.  Do search "anemones" on WWM and learn what the requirements are for keeping them.>
Thanks <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
-Jacob

Anemone Help   2/2/06
Hi Bob, <Hi Michele, James here today.>
My name is Michele Laurita. I was wondering if you could possibly help me. I have a very small reef tank 25 gallons. I have in it a yellow
tang, clown wrasse, a tomato clown, <Problems coming up, tank much too small for these fish.> several small hermit  cleaner crabs,
2 banded shrimp, and many other corals and live rock. The tank has been established for over 1 year. It seems every anemone I purchase dies due
to the same cause.  It appears that they get I guess for lack of a better term "ulcers" open wounds that appear white
fleshy openings on the stalk and interior of the anemone. Why is this occurring? I have already lost 1 anemone and I really love the one I
have now yet it has these symptoms as well. Can you guild me to what I may be doing wrong. I certainty would appreciate any guidance you could
provide. I read your web site and feel as though you would be able to help , Thank you Michele. <Michele, first off, anemones are not easy to keep to begin with.  A large tank, pristine water quality, good water movement and intense lighting are all required to keep them alive for any length of time.  The fish you have in your tank are creating poor water quality in the amount of waste they produce.  The other problem is that water parameters in a small tank can shift too fast, another negative for keeping anemones.  You will just be wasting your money buying anemones until you can provide the requirements/needs for them.
James (Salty Dog)>   

Keeping Anemones-Up For The Challenge?   2/2/06
Hi crew!
<Hi there! Scott F. at your service today!>
I would like to thank you for your advice because it really help me a lot.
<Glad we can help!>
I have a FOWLR tank and now I would like to add some Invertebrates , like snail, crabs, shrimps, etc. as well one LTA, I always put my fishes to QT before I put them on my display tank to prevent diseases.
<Music to my ears!>
I'd like to know if I have to Quarantine what I'm going to Get, and if I do, for how long? And what do I need to look to know if there is a disease.
<Okay. Here a re links to a couple of articles I wrote on the topic a couple of years back, which should give you a good general idea of the process:   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm        http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quarinverts.htm >
Can I keep a LTA and 1 Purple Tube Anemone* *on a 55g with Coralife 48"
Lunar Aqualight 4x65 260 Watts, a wet dry 75pro and about 50 pounds of live rock and 1 Ocellaris Clownfish, 1 Bluefin Damsel, 1 Yellow Watchman Goby, 1 large Engineer Goby and 1 Green Brittle Star.
I appreciate your response an advance.
Thank you
Sincerely
K4Z3KY
<Well, K- I'm a bit hesitant to recommend the LTA for a system illuminated by anything less than metal halides, as these lights will generally assure that you're providing the proper intensity and spectrum (if you choose the light bulb), removing at least one of the major hurdles in anemone husbandry (lighting). Also, I would not keep multiple anemones in this sized aquarium, as they may engage in a form of "chemical warfare" that could stress and/or kill both specimens. You'll still have the challenge of maintaining high water quality, providing good food, and enough space for the animals. My candid advice would be to try some less expensive, more abundant, and typically easier-to-keep Condylactis anemones. Though not as "sexy" as the LTA or Tube Anemones, these Caribbean anemones are colorful and interesting, and have the added bonus of living a very long time in aquaria. You still will have to provide excellent environmental conditions, but if you're up to the challenge, they are great to work with. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Anemones - 12/30/2005
Hi
<Hello.>
I was wondering if there are any anemone that would be easy for me to keep.
<Nope.>
I have had my tank for about 1 year and I have a percula clownfish (that i have had from day 1), and I want an anemone that my fish will enjoy living in.
<If that's the case, you'll have to do the "footwork" to make it happen. Begin with research, here and elsewhere, on anemone requirements, care, Etc. Neither easy nor casual.>
All of my water parameters are like they should be, but I have  heard a lot of this about keeping anemones, some good and some bad, I would be thankful for any information that you could give me.
<The "good" stems from proper research, the "bad" stems from whimsical purchasing. Save your money for now, likely to end badly for you. - Josh>

Anemones, not a casual decision  12/26/05
I just had a quick question. I want to put an anemone (mainly a bubble tip
anemone) and was wondering if it's ok to put in my tank. I have a blue tang,
tomato clown, some Chromis and flame angel with a bunch of shrimp (cleaner,
blood and peppermint) and snails. What anemone would work with my setup?
<Well I'll start off by saying anemones are not for casual aquarists and are quite sensitive, the lot of them perish in captivity. Before I can even begin to recommend or advise placing an anemone in your tank I will need to know much more about your system, filtration, lighting, water flow, substrate, water parameters, protein skimmer, maintenance regime, tank size and tank age. Also research this animal for your self at WWM re: E. Quadricolor. Adam J.>

Re: Anemone Decision
Thank you for the quick response.
<Sorry this one was not as quick.>
Well I have a 75 gallon with a 48"aqualight PowerCompact with 2 65 watt 10,000k and 2 65 watt actinic bulbs. For filtration I have a SeaLife systems wet dry with a SeaLife protein
skimmer. Water movement is done by my mag1800 (1800 gph) and the substrate
is the aragonite crushed coral (CaribSea. The tank has been setup for about
a year, I have a couple of mushroom, encrusting gorgonians, star polyps and
button polyps. I plan to put some pulsing xenia's and try a leather soon.
<All are potential victims for the tentacles of a wandering anemone.>
I do biweekly water changes of about 10 gallons.
<That’s good.>
And the tank has been setup for about a year. I really like the idea of having an anemone if it is
compatible with my tank, if not Ill get some hammer coral or something
similar. Thanks in advance!
<With your lighting and tank mates I would go with the hammer. Much better suited to captivity than an anemone, good choice.>
Armando
<Adam J.>

Anemones question  12/16/05
  Hi first off great site,<Thank you> second, I am new to the saltwater aquarium and
have a few questions. I want to start off easy and don't want to jump straight
into coral but want something with lots of color. Will Sponges and plants
thrive off of fluorescent lighting and what would be the minimum lighting I
would need to get a Haitian anemones to live. I want to stick with
fluorescent lighting for now because I already own a fluorescent hood. I am
open to anything you think I might want to take a look at what would go good
in a fish only with live rock tank..<I'd start out with clowns and/or gobies, maybe a Dottyback.>
Oh I have a 55 Gallon tank it's 13" wide 48" long and 21" deep <Brian, if you are just starting out, take my advice and stay away from anemones till you gain a little more knowledge and experience.  But to answer your lighting question. anemones will require about 250 watts of lighting in your 55.>
Thanks for any help you can provide.  <You're welcome.  In the future, please do a spelling/grammar check before sending.  It saves us time as we have to edit these queries before posting.  James (Salty Dog)>
                          Brian

Second best (easiest/hardiest) anemone species 11/24/2005
Hello Mr. Fenner! 
<James today>
Am I right to assume that the second easiest anemone species after the Bubble Tip is the LTA (Macrodactyla doreensis), given the tank has a DSB?  Thanks! 
<As you probably know, no anemone is "easy" to keep.  All require special care/considerations but to answer your question, it would be a good choice for second.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dominique

Anemone Keeping- Just The Facts, Maam! 10/28/05
Hi guys!
<Hey there! Scott F. here today!>
I've scoured your site for a while now, and I'm having trouble locating an answer to my question. I'll try to give you all the vital info, and I hope you can help! A friend recently sold me a saltwater setup, which included the 20 gallon Eclipse 2, which has been modified with an additional 10 gallon sump. The aquarium has 2 overflows into the sump, and the water flows through the tubes into a system of bio balls, then into the sump tank, where it is then pumped back into the aquarium.
<An interesting mod!>
He included the sand, a large chunk of live rock and a ('false') Percula Clown. I waited a couple of days and added a Royal Gramma.
<After you quarantined him, I hope...? just a reminder!>
Both fish seem to be happy, and eat well. I want to add an anemone for the Clown, but I keep getting conflicting answers from my local shops. I know I need to upgrade the lighting, but I can't find anything that tells me the best, and least expensive way, to do this. I did find a 'SmartPaq' system that promises to be ideal to fit the hood I have, and to provide 32 watts. Is this enough light? Should I consider something else?
<While I encourage experimentation on all sorts of fronts in the hobby, I'm not an advocate of "casual" anemone keeping. These animals are truly a limited resource, and removing them from the wild often resigns them to a limited lifespan in captivity, and the potential to severely deplete wild populations. Anemones do require a very high level of care- water quality, food, and lighting are essential. 
Many are simply doomed in captivity- the statistics are there.  It's extremely important to study the anemone you intend to keep and to design your system accordingly. Since anemones have potentially VERY long life spans, you need to have a system that is large enough to accommodate them for an indefinite period!  A 20 gallon is simply not sufficient for long-term maintenance of a typical "BTA" or "LTA" found in the hobby, when you consider the possible growth of the animal, and metabolic processes and other issues associated with its care. 
In addition, the anemone is absolutely NOT a requirement to keep Clownfish happy in captivity. In fact, many of them have been captive-bred for generations, and have never even seen an anemone! 
In the end, why not enjoy more adaptable animals in this small system? If you must have an anemone, why not try keeping (I gulp when I suggest this, but there is a certain warped logic to it!) an Aiptasia anemone in your sump? This can help satisfy your anemone "fix" and you can study this much-maligned, yet fascinating animal!>
Here is a link to the system I'm considering. http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/power_CUEclipse.htm 
<A nice system, but with the aforementioned caveat about anemones, I'd consider utilizing it for other animals.>
Can you help a newbie out? I really appreciate your help. I've used your search tool before, and it your site has been helpful to me in the past, when I set up my brackish 55 gallon with my spotted puffers. (I have one with a belly that turns black from time to time, but he seems to be fine, and eats like a little pig; he's now the biggest fish in the tank!)
<Glad to hear that we've been useful to you! I hope I don't come across as overly negative, but I feel that it's important to lay out the facts on anemone husbandry.>
Anyway, I'm sorry to take up so much space; I just tried to include all the information I thought you might need!
Thanks again!
Penny
<You were quite helpful, Penny! Why not consider colorful zooanthids as an alternative to anemones? Keeping these animals may start a lifelong passion for you...Think about it! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> 

Anemone scare thanks 10/30/05
Hey guys-
<... and gals... you think you're scared now...>
Just wanted to drop you a quick note of thanks. I asked a question about anemones yesterday, and received a great response. I think that I'm sufficiently scared off, and I've decided to just try to maintain a 'FOWLR' tank.
<Good>
I may try to add some zoanthids later, though, I understand, sometimes they are found on live rock. I'm also going to do a little research on turning my sump into a refugium. 
Thanks again for the great site and all the great information!
Penny
<Welcome. Cheers, Bob Fenner>  

What Anemone? - 09/03/2005
I was originally going to buy an LTA but after reading your site and seeing you recommend a carpet anemone for perculas that's the one I would want to buy. I have a 55 gallon tank with a wet dry filter and 260watt lighting  is this enough space for the anemone?
<No....  Quite honestly, the only one I'd really be comfortable recommending is a captive clone of a bubble-tip/Entacmaea quadricolor.  Please read here for more:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm .  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Unable to keep anemones alive 8/3/05
Hello, I have been very unsuccessful in keeping any kind of anemones alive to date. <This is the case for most aquarists.  Anemones are often injured and/or stressed in collection/shipping and are doomed.  Those that do survive often succumb to inadequate water quality, inadequate light, inadequate food and very often, for no apparent reason at all.>
My latest was a Bubble Tipped which didn't last for three weeks before it started to rot from the inside. Clown fishes were fighting each other over the anemone and were feeding it but to no avail. <This sounds like the anemone was injured, which is almost always fatal, especially if the anemone is not well established in captivity (months of good health).  Acquiring a healthy specimen is difficult but imperative, and it isn't always possible to tell by visual inspection.>
To make things worse I bought another smaller Bubble Tipped anemone for my nephew and his is still alive and didn't require any special/MH lighting. It's just your regular fluorescent tube!! <Hmmm...  Enough fluorescent tubes could produce enough light to maintain a BTA, but one or two certainly can't.  An otherwise healthy anemone my survive weeks or months under these conditions (especially if well fed), but eventually it will perish.>
What kind of conditions are required for anemone? I have Cleaner shrimps, Bullseye Pistol Shrimp, Blue Hermit crabs, snails, mushrooms, Star and Yellow/Sun polyps, Scarlet Hermit crab, three different species of damsels, Yellow tang, Dottyback and three different species of clownfish.  <Generally, anemones require at least strong VHO lighting with MH being better.  Water chemistry should be optimized (S.G. 1.025-1.026, pH 8.1-8.5, Alkalinity 3-4 mEq/l, Calcium 380-450) and general water quality maintained with good skimming and frequent partial water changes (10%/month minimum) and at least about 10x the tank volume in water movement.>
I have tried feeding Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp etc. Monthly water changes, controlled water chemistry, proper lighting.
Please advise. Thank you. Paul <Without knowing more about your system, it is hard to guess what the problem might be.  Even if you acquire a healthy specimen, it takes optimal reef tank conditions to maintain anemones and even under such conditions, many still die.  Unfortunately, we can only test for a small fraction of all of the things that contribute to water quality, and of those that are possible, most of us only measure a few.  Because of this, we may never know what the "secret" is to maintaining anemones.  If you do choose to try again, I strongly urge you to seek out captive raised Bubble tip anemones.  They are already well acclimated to captive conditions and while their death is still tragic, at least it didn't come from the reef.  It would also be advisable to compare your system, water chemistry and maintenance practices to other aquarists who have been successful at keeping anemones to try and reveal any crucial differences.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Anemones And Sessile Inverts... Never A Good Mix - 07/29/05
My BTA has decided to attach himself to the bottom of my button polyp rock so that when he inflates he brushes against some of them.
<<This is why most here don't advocate placing motile invertebrates in the same system with sessile invertebrates.>>
They are turning white and I'm assuming that they are being stung.
<<They are>>
I only have a few corals in a 105 gallon tank and there are plenty of other rocks for him to choose from.
<<This is not the fault of the anemone.>>
Is there any way to get him off this particular rock?  I have  moved the polyp rock from the top of the tank where it was getting maximum light  and current to the bottom shadier part of the tank to see if this gets him to move.
<<This may or may not work, but you are now stressing both animals.>>  
So far, it's not working.  I don't want to pry him off or hurt  him.
<<No, prying will likely damage/kill the anemone.  They can sometimes be "gently" coaxed from smooth surfaces with a carefully applied thumbnail, but trying to forcefully remove them from rock is ill advised.>>
Any solutions?
<<Mmm...place the rock back where the anemone will be/was happy and accept the demise of the polyps...learn from the experience and treat the (any) anemone accordingly.>>
Thanks!  I've been reading your sight for hours and can't find the answer, so far.
<<The "answer" is not to mix these critters in the first place my friend.  Regards, EricR>>

To Anemone, Or Not To Anemone... 7/11/05
Hi Gang!
<Brandon>
Question for ya'll. I have recently converted my 125G reef tank to a FOWLR tank. I took the frags I collected and created a separate, smaller tank to house them. The logic behind this move is that much beauty in the ocean lies within the fish. I have about 1/3 of the tank filled with live rock, but wanted many swimming lanes and open sandy areas.
My question is this:
I am considering heavily adding a beautiful carpet anemone to the 125G tank. I have really nothing in the tank it can sting coral wise, and I have plenty of lighting with 8.5 watts per gallon of 13K and actinic lighting. I also have a mammoth Beckett skimmer and large refugium, further adding water volume to the tank. Have any fish, besides rock skippers like blennies, been known to fall prey to carpets? I'm thinking along the lines of tangs, angels, Basslets, and my mated pair of perculas that I'm sure will love it.
Thanks for the thoughts!
Brandon
<Less than one out of a hundred carpet anemones live a month in captivity... Likely half are doomed from improper extraction, damage enroute from the wild... Are these odds acceptable to you? Bob Fenner>

Re: To Anemone, Or Not To Anemone... 7/12/05
No, I guess they are not. I was not aware that 1% survived. I figured given
the proper care, survival would be very long indeed. Thank you for pointing
that out to me.
<Glad to. Bob Fenner>

Anemone tank
I have an 72 x 24 x 24 180 gallon aquarium with the following equipment:
Lighting: (2) 96W PC, (2) 175W MH, (3) 140W URI VHO on a reflector-backed,
fan-cooled canopy
Filter/UV Loop: LG 2MD pump, Sea Clear canister with looped tubing in clear
well, 30W UV, (low flow)
Aerobic Loop: Clear for life wet/dry filter sump, TF200 protein skimmer with
exterior pump Iwaki 20LT pump, MD Iwaki 30LXT pump
It has about 150 lb of live rock and 3 inch bed of live sand over about ½
inch of crushed coral.
Is this tank worthy of an anemone?  I am interested in adding either a
single Haddoni or a E. quad anemone.  Is the lighting and setup OK for
either?
The objective is to have the coveted anemone thrive and be a focal point of
the tank.  I would opt for the Haddoni based upon the relative ease of care
but don't like the idea of having the creature split all over the place.
The Haddoni is less apt to split from my reading and may be a better choice.
What advice can you give me?  <Bill, your lighting would be inadequate to support either a haddoni or a quadricolor.  You would need a minimum of 5 1/2 to 6 watts per gallon.  You are at a little over 3 at present.  James (Salty Dog)>
Regards,
Bill Sanz