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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone
Selection Related Articles:
Bubble Tip,
Rose
Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob
Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim
Black,
Recent
Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani,
Anemones,
Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs: E.
quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E.
quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4, E. quad FAQ 5,
BTA
ID, BTA
Compatibility, BTA Behavior,
BTA Systems, BTA
Feeding, BTA Disease,
BTA Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones,
Anemones 2, Caribbean
Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone
Identification, Anemone
Selection, Anemone
Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone Feeding, Heteractis
malu,
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Rumor about green BTA's, ID
2/11/08
Hello,
<Hi there!>
I heard somewhere that green BTA's (Bubble-Tip Anemones) are found in lower
depths, can grow to be twice the diameter of other BTA's, and reproduce a lot
less often. Is this just a rumour or is there any truth to this? I really like
the look of GBTA's, but if they get that much bigger, I might consider buying a
Rose. TIA, Random Aquarist
<There seems to be 2 forms of E. quadricolor (BTA); a smaller colonial form that
it more likely to experience lateral fission (splitting), and a solitary larger
form. However, I wouldn't let colour be an indicator of the disposition of an
anemone. I have seen green E. quadricolor that have split, as well as "roses"
that have grew to larger sizes. The indicated max size for E quadricolor is
around 400mm, so would suggest if you want to keep an anemone of this type, you
allow for that size, even if you choose to go for a "splitter" (just in case it
decides not to!). Mike I>
A few questions from someone new to anemones. Asteroid comp., BTA
sel., Anemone incomp. 9/5/06
Hello guys!
<And gals...>
I love the website and have gained a lot of information from it.
<Good>
I've kept a 30 gallon marine tank for about a year now. About a month ago I
purchased an 80 gallon tank to replace it and I plan on turning the 30
gallon into a refugium and plumbing the two together for obvious benefits
:-)).
<Great!>
My current tank currently has:
1 Yellow Tang
1 Blue Damsel
1 Yellow Damsel who can be aggressive)
1 Velvet Damsel
1 Tomato Clown (I hope will host in the Anemone)
2 Fire Shrimps
1 Chocolate Starfish
1 Sandsifting Starfish
And a few blue and red legged crabs and some turbo snails as well.
<All this a thirty?>
Live sand bed and about 30 lbs of live rock.
(which were originally all in my 30 gallon, hence the upgrade to a larger
tank)
As for the setup itself I currently have:
An emperor 400 w/BioWheel
A Magnum 350 Canister filter
A 40w single strip light.
Question #1-
I've been thinking about getting a bubble tip anemone. But I've heard that
starfish/anemones are not a good match. Is this true?
<Mmm, this is not a major issue... incompatibility twixt these groups>
I've read that anemones will eat starfish and that starfish will eat
anemones,
<A few species are notably predaceous... most ignore each other... including
the ones you list>
but haven't found any definitive information on either of the two species
that I have and the anemone that I'm getting.
<Now you have...>
Question#2-
Is there anything else I should think about purchasing before I go out and
buy a bubble tip anemone. the waste of 35 bucks doesn't concern me, it's the
pointless killing of an animal by a novice)
<Yes... please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/btaselfaqs.htm
re BTA Sel.>
Question #3-
If I'm running a refugium, is there any need for me to purchase a protein
skimmer,
<Yes>
my nitrates are barely measurable (approximately .5 ppm when I change water)
and ammonia and nitrite have been zero for almost as long as the tank has
been set up. Ph and Alkalinity are normal and haven't fluctuated to a
noticeable degree yet.
I've decided on the bubble tip because in my research I've found
that they are one of the easiest to keep, and also are known to host tomato
clowns. Also, is there any reason why I shouldn't mix a sebae and a bubble
tip anemone in this tank?
<All sorts... please read on WWM re Anemone incomp...>
I've read about anemones having "chemical warfare" on corals. But from my
understanding of it, anemones and corals are mostly the same accept mobility
in anemones.
<Not so>
I'm just trying to make sure that when I buy a bubble tip anemone that I
don't end up feeding it to something in my tank, or something in my tank to
it.
Thanks for all your input and keep up the good work.
Paul Kotlarz
<Keep reading. Bob Fenner>
Bubble tipped Anemone 1/20/06
Just set up a 120 saltwater tank with a 30 gallon sump 9 months ago. I am a
complete Newbie so this site
has been a complete Godsend. You are all so knowledgeable, thanks so much.
Without wasting to much of your time here is my question. I purchased a molting
mushroom rock a few weeks ago, which is doing quite nicely. On the opposite
side of the rock is what looks to be bubble tipped anemones. It's a small
colony of maybe 5 or 6
separate specimens, about an inch in diameter and an inch high. Their colors
range from brownish orange to green and two have recently relocated to other
places in my tank. Everything I've seen in books and on the internet are all
the picture perfect and fully grown. These little guys have retained their
bubble tips and seem to be loving my tank.
Oh, the question? Will these little guys get bigger or simply spread? <If that
is what they are they will grow under proper conditions. I'm thinking they are
the dreaded Aiptasia anemones. Any chance of sending a pic of them?> What do
they eat? I am taking a lot of time with each thing I put in the tank and want
to know what is best with these little guys. <Do search the Wet Web Media
(Google tool) and you will find answers to your questions. Do start here with
anemones.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm> I'm
almost obsessive about the tank an all parameters are pretty good. Right now my
tank has two Foxface fish, a mandarin fish,<Do search this fish, you will be
surprised at its requirements/needs.> two peppermint shrimp, one red serpent
star, one brittle star, a plate coral and numerous snails and hermit crabs, all
of which are doing great. A word of enlightened wisdom about my newest little
tank mates will be greatly appreciated. Vicky, always do a search on something
you intend to buy. May save you money/headaches down the road. James (Salty
Dog)>
Sincerely, Vicky W.
Anemones, not a casual decision 12/26/05
I just had a quick question. I want to put an anemone (mainly a bubble tip
anemone) and was wondering if it's ok to put in my tank. I have a blue tang,
tomato clown, some Chromis and flame angel with a bunch of shrimp (cleaner,
blood and peppermint) and snails. What anemone would work with my setup?
<Well I'll start off by saying anemones are not for casual aquarists and are
quite sensitive, the lot of them perish in captivity. Before I can even begin to
recommend or advise placing an anemone in your tank I will need to know much
more about your system, filtration, lighting, water flow, substrate, water
parameters, protein skimmer, maintenance regime, tank size and tank age. Also
research this animal for your self at WWM re: E. Quadricolor. Adam J.>
Reef Calcium conundrum, Captive-prop'ed BTA
12/9/05
I have a question for you...imagine that, I have a 55gal w/ 4" DSB that I've started with a few zoo's frags, some
Kenya tree, and a Ricordea. I just got a wild hair and decided to test my alkalinity and calcium levels. My calcium came out to a whopping 560ppm and the alkalinity to about 180ppm. I've been using B-ionic 2 part calcium/alk. supplement and Kent's
SuperBuffer dKH weekly as my source water is extremely soft (about 10ppm).
I am seriously considering putting in an anemone (BTA to go with ocellaris clown---I love anemone/clownfish systems!), but don't want to do so
until I'm sure my water quality is just right...not to mention that I'm at a loss as to where to find a captive produced clone in my area (N. CO) I have about 60 lbs. LR and about 15 lbs. coral skeletons. I'm not sure if these levels are OK and if I should stop/scale down my dosing? Any help? Oh, also, what is your
opinion on using bleach to clean out QT tanks/equipment?...I've always used vinegar, but was
recommended to use bleach...Thanks, Branon.
<If your levels and water quality are rock-solid and stable, you're probably fine, assuming other parameters are met (lighting in particular). Your LFS should be able to procure a captive-cloned BTA for you, or you may be able to find one via internet mail-order.
Good on you for demanding captive prop'ed livestock. Bleach is definitely better than vinegar for sterilizing equipment. You can dilute it 1:2 or 1:3
bleach: water and spray it with a spray bottle (KEEP IT OUT OF YOUR EYES, OFF SKIN, FAVORITE BLUE JEANS, ETC) on large stuff like tanks. Just be sure to rinse everything very thoroughly. Lastly, try to buy the most basic bleach, without perfume, etc. Happy Holidays, Lorenzo>
<<It helps to keep a bit of dry sodium thiosulfate on hand, can be
found online through chemical supply houses at incredibly cheap prices!
Marina>>
Maroon Clowns behavior, BTAs 7/10/05
Hey Everybody,
I have two maroon clowns, one is a little over an inch and the other one is
two inches. The smaller one is very dark and the larger one is a very bright
orange. They swim together all the time and in the three months they have
been together I have never seen them fight. Does it sound like they may
eventually mate, or is there a chance that they will become aggressive and
kill each other still? <Should mate in time with the female being the larger of
the two. Fighting shouldn't take place. Google the WWM, keyword "clownfish"
for more info.> That is my first question, my second involves the investment of
an anemone. I am in the process of setting up a 180 gallon
that will eventually become the home for the clowns, the set-up follows:
2x 250 MH Lights
1x 125 MH Lights
4x 110 Actinic VHO
2 protein skimmers
50 Gallon sump
As of yet, I don't have any LR, I am still checking for any leaks. I am
planning on about 100 lbs of LR, my budget and my wife won't let me get too
much more than that. Do you think that BTA's would do well in a system like
this after it gets completely cycled, and if so how long after cycling
should I wait to put them in? <A BTA should do well in your system. I'd wait 60
days anyway, anemones don't take too well to new setups.> I know that anemones
have a bad history in captivity in general, so I am open to any suggestions you
may have of
surrogate hosts. <The BTA is a good choice, one of the hardier anemones,
although none are easy to keep for any length of time. Your large tank will be a
plus in this regard. As with any clown/anemone combo, there is no guarantee the
fish will inhabit the host.> Lastly, I am also considering a Naso Tang and I
have a few
concerns that you may be able to address. Will the Naso bother the anemone
or any surrogate corals? <No> Will the Naso attack my Maroons or vice versa?
<Shouldn't be a problem.> Is a 180 gallon big enough for a Naso? <Yes. Also
Google the WWM, keyword, "tangs", and read. The Naso's are not the easiest of
tangs to keep.> Thank you guys, I always appreciate the advice. <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
,Tate
BTA and clowns
Hi Bob and Crew!
<Hi, Graham at your service.>
I first want to say that I have thoroughly enjoyed WetWebMedia.Com since I
discovered it a couple of months ago. It has provided me with a ton
of
information which I have really appreciated!
<Thank you!>
Most everything I've wondered I've been able to find in previous faq's/articles
but I'm having trouble with one specific thing. I have decided to try
and keep my first anemone
and really want to do this right. After much research I have decided
on a
BTA (preferable tank raised) with a pair of maroon clowns or Ocellaris. I
have good rapport and trust with one certain local fish store and decided
to have them obtain all three animals for me, pair the clowns up and
"host"
them with the BTA prior to my purchasing them. (I informed them I
would
prefer Ocellaris over Maroon due to temperament, but since Ocellaris do not
have natural symbiotic relationship with this anemone in nature Maroons
would be fine too if Ocellaris didn't work out). It was my thinking
that
having them all pair/host at the LFS would be a logical way to start off on
the right foot. Do you disagree?
<Not at all.>
For background, my main tank is 55 gal. 4' long tank, 80-90lbs live rock,
3-4" live sand bed. Current inhabitants are 1 yellow tang, 1six
line wrasse and 1 cleaner shrimp, cleaner crew of
snails and red-leg hermits. For lighting I have 6- 40W NO fluorescent
bulbs (so total of 240W). BakPakII for skimming (with bio-bale media
all
removed and heater placed in this side of unit), 4 powerheads (2 little
guys, one medium size, one bigger - bigger meaning 400gph rated). My
quarantine setup consists of bare bottom 10 gal. with fluorescent light and
hood, which I set up only when needed with heater, one of the small
powerheads from my main tank and a penguin mini with bio-wheel which runs
constantly on my main tank and moves over to quarantine when set up. Now
my main questions:
1) Is lighting sufficient for BTA in your opinion? I have read many
opinions on this, but I struggle with the total wattage/vs. type of
lighting (fluorescent vs. metal halide, etc) issue. If it is
sufficient,
could you recommend a mix of bulbs that would work well- i.e. 3 actinic
blues, 3 actinic whites, all 50/50's, etc...
<No, this lighting will most likely not be enough for the E. quadricolor.
Instead, I would look into either 4x 48" 110wt VHO's (2x 10,000k and 2x
Actinic) on an Icecap 660 ballast or 4x 96wt Power Compacts. Either one of these
setups would provide excellent lighting for not only anemones, but for many
light demanding corals.>
2) quarantine procedure for BTA and clowns. As I said they will be
"paired
and hosted" before I bring them home from the fish store, so I wondered if
it made the quarantine situation unique at all? Meaning I don't want
to
split them up, but I'm concerned because although I want to
quarantine
them (particularly the clowns) I'm a little worried about the anemone in
the empty bare bottom 10 gal. with the dinky little fluorescent light that
came with the kit.
<That may be a slight bump in the road -- if you do add the anemone to the
tank, most likely it will start starving (loss of zooxanthellae) until you added
it back to the aquarium. If you would prefer to quarantine the clownfish, I
would first add the anemone to the aquarium (allow it to settle in) and later on
add the clownfish. There's always going to be the chance that they won't host
with each other even if you added the clownfish to the tank the same time you did
as the anemone. With that said, I would personally add the anemone to the tank
and quarantine the clownfish.>
3)any comments on my current setup/practices?
<It sounds very good. Are you planning on keeping live coral?>
I would appreciate any insight and thanks again for your great site!!
Further, if my specific question(s) have been asked already I apologize for
the redundancy, but I could not find an exact match to my scenario.
<Take Care, Mike! Graham.>
Mike Mendoza
Where to find/buy Captive Bred BTA Rose anemones 8/3/04
I'll be quick. Where can I buy (online) a captive bred/cloned anemone? I
don't want to steal a clown fish's! I can't find it on google anywhere. Thank
you, Marshall Montgomery
<Edie at Tropical Paradise (Cali) has a fine store and is an avid supporter of
cultured reef creatures. I was just there months ago and saw a couple hundred
Rose BTA there. You can look him up at:
http://www.tpaquarium.com/
best regards, Anthony Calfo>
Dyed BTAs? 11/26/03
I bought 3 rose anemones they were deep red we got them in the tank 3 weeks
later they turned bright white with hot pink tips a we think maybe they were
dyed could you email to tell me your thoughts
<I doubt these anemones were dyed... not heard of with BTAs. Seems much more
likely they bleached from stress from poor acclimation. If you feed them well
(necessary) for the next few months, they will likely recover their color and
survive. Anthony>
Dyed rose anemone?
How can I tell if my rose anemone has been dyed or not.
<there is no sure fire way to tell if an anemone has been dyed except for time. The
anemone in a couple of months if dyed will turn back to its original color most
of the time brown) or will die.>
Bought from a guy on e-bay who sells lots of splits and had excellent feedback.
My rose is pretty good color but has some green color at the base of his tentacles
<normal on most>
and red seems to be darker at top.
<you will get many color morphs in rose anemones. I have one that is bright
red all over and one that is hot pink.>
Color seems to be in little dots when you look up close. The foot is pink. Tips
look fluorescent orange. From what I am told dying different colors is a common
scam throughout the industry.
<It is but I have never heard of dying Rose anemones before.>
If it is dyed how long before you think all the dye will have worn off?
<couple months>
I have hesitated giving this guy any feedback until I know for sure whether it
has been dyed or not. If it has I want to be sure to alert others to his scam.
$56 for a 3.5" Rose and $38 shipping. $56 seems too good to be true for a
true rose don't you think?
<YES>
The pictures he puts on the web are not as dark red as the actual. You can see
one of his auctions here. Check out his feedback. If it is a scam he is good. The
dye lasts long enough for customers to post positive feedback?
<If the guy has good feed back, I would say they are real. Only time will tell. MikeH>
Thanks,
Rob
Anemones
What are the safest (as far as not eating my fish/cleaner shrimp) anemones
for keeping in the home aquaria,
<E. quadricolor>
and what is the average light per gallon for anemones?
<Please refer to our extensive coverage of lighting issues and anemones on
www.WetWebMedia.com. -Steven Pro>
Entacmaea quadricolor for a Beginner?
Hi,
About a month ago my husband and I started setting up my 125-gallon reef tank.
After adding live rock and letting it hang out for two weeks or so we decided to
add our first critters to get the system cycling. We brought home a pair of
Yellowstripe maroon clownfish with an associated bubble tip anemone. Everything
looked great but our female clown (Eve) is much too hard on the anemone and our
aquarium store owner told us to add another so she will go between the two and
not stress out the one so much. So we added another much bigger bubble tip. The
anemone (Big Bertha) looks excellent but doesn't seem to be attaching anywhere,
I fear that it isn't stoked on any of our aquascape. Also its foot looks all
swollen and I couldn't find any information on why this would be. Eve has gone
to visit it a couple times but no big connection. It's only been two days. Am I
being too impatient? I just want to make sure everyone is happy. Please respond
soon! Thanks, Sarah Bredensteiner
<Unfortunately, it seems like you have received some rather poor advice.
Anemones in general are poor candidates for captivity. While the Bubble-Tip is
one of the best, I could still not recommend it in good conscience to a
beginner. They require very bright lighting, excellent water quality, and
regular feedings to prosper and even then should not be recommended to be kept
with other stinging animals/corals because they will wander around and damage or
be damaged too easily. Please see all we have to offer regarding these animals
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/e_quadfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/e_quadfaq2.htm
And also many of the other FAQ files. -Steven Pro>
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