Bubble Tip went into hiding    11/4/06
Hello all, I am need of your worldly knowledge and assistance.  I have a 135 gal. aquarium with 130 lbs. or live rock.  It has been established for several months now with a 25 gal refugium and a aqua-c pro protein skimmer 2 65 watt actinic blue lighting and 2 175 watt metal halides.  But that isn't my problem as you could have guessed, my bubble tip which is quite large (Ritteri sized) was introduced into my aquarium almost a month ago first acted like a Ritteri absorbing as much light as it can.
<Heteractis and Entacmaea species are indeed "light-loving">
  But lately it has become very scared of my halides, hiding and when they come on.  
<... trouble>
Well just the other day it went to the top back of my tank above my live rock shelf after the halides turned off and stayed there until they turned on yesterday.  Now it has forced itself between the back of the tank wall and my live rock shelf.  It is completely deflated (trying to pry itself down to the bottom of the tank) and doesn't look good at all.  As a remedy I have moved the live rock away from him so that he can move as needed,
<No need... can/will move if/when wants>
but that doesn't solve my ultimate problem.  I believe that he has an issue with my lighting, maybe to strong for him, I don't know?
<Not likely the light/ing...>
I have had many anemones in my time (Ritteri, LTA, BTA, Sebae, Carpets), all under the same set up, they never tried to run from the lighting, so what gives with him?  My actinics come on for 1 hour before the halides and stay on for 1 hour after the halides turn off, and my halides are on for 8 hours a day ( I also have a moon light which stays on 24 hours a day).  He is on the right hand side of the tank, so I turned off the right side halide light in an attempt to get him to come out from behind my live rock shelf, but I think he doesn't know what to make of it all now.  What should I do about getting him to come out, and what should I do about the lighting issue?
<Much more likely something (damage) to do with the actual specimen... I would move it to other circumstances given this information... Some place with no other Cnidarians. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Michael

Re: Bubble Tip went into hiding   11/5/06
Thanks for your quick reply Bob I do appreciate it.  But you were right (as ya'll always are)
<I wouldn't go this far>
he came out of hiding and is running the tank like crazy.  I need a game plan can you help me please?  Just to clarify something, I used to have A LOT of anemones ( I am in the military and move quite often), so every time I moved I'd have to start over, but at the moment he is the only anemone in the tank (tank mates are True percula, cardinal, 6-line wrasse, mandarin goby) so it is a light bio load.  But should I turn the other halide on after a couple of days (first let him get used to the single light which is doing quite well by itself)?  Or should I go ahead and turn it on now and let him try to settle down with the original set up?
<I would do this latter>
I can run it either way.  Do you think that the BTA is damaged?  
<Does read as such, yes>
He attaches his foot to everything and even hangs upside down
<Not good>
on occasion when both halides would turn on.  He eats pretty good, not like a carpet anemone would, but alright., his mouth isn't sagging/or gapping open, and his disc is all intact.  
<No obvious tears?>
Normally when both lights came on he would run to the deepest part of the tank and flatten out and deflate somewhat, but today with just one halide he swelled up and extended a little towards the light fully inflated.  My tank is actually 40" long by 36" wide by 22" deep, almost a perfect square so I am wondering if 2 lights are too much for him (again most tanks of this size are usually about 6' long or so)?
<I would start with the one, but likely run the two>
What do you think about this new info, and should I turn on the other halide and if so what acclimation procedures do you recommend?
<Posted on WWM...>
Also I know from experience that anemones will roam the tank until they find that perfect spot (especially BTA's), but this guy runs my tank like it is NASCAR race non-stop, I have never had an anemone do this before and I do have gentle alternating wave making currents on 24/7, so I know it isn't my water flow?  I am puzzled about this whole idea, please help again.
Thanks,
Michael
<There may be other (mostly chemical) factors at play here... No data presented re. I would re-read over the articles and FAQs files on Actinarian use in aquariums... Bob Fenner>

Re: Bubble Tip went into hiding   11/6/06
Thanks Again Bob, but no there is no visual signs of tears or damage to my BTA, and lately I have been reluctant to turn on the other halide, he seems to be doing well.  But you believe that there are pest anemones in my tank.
<Mmmm... the other Cnidarian classes...>
  If so I cant see any, I am very picky about that kind of thing, also I have a peppermint shrimp to take care of any that I cant take care of myself (Joe's juice, although I haven't used it since I have introduced my BTA), but I don't see any other anemones pest or otherwise.  He has kind of slowed down his movement some limiting himself to one rock, but runs up the rock when the lights are off (only the moonlights are on), and back down to the bottom once the actinics come on.  But here is my next question which puzzles me to no end.  Once he runs down to the bottom right after the actinics come on in the morning, he deflates and then the halides come on and reinflates and the cycle runs on.  Where he is positioned (right where I feed the tank), I know he is getting his fair share of formula 1 and prime reef.  Is this normal?
<Not atypical... especially for a newly-introduced specimen. I take it this is not a captive-propagated clone>
Or is he just digesting yesterdays food and is expelling waste getting ready for the next day, or there something more to it that I should be concerned about?
<Doubtful>
Thanks Again Bob for your quick replies and your help.
Michael
<Wish I could state, or speculate more specifically. Bob Fenner>

Re: Bubble Tip went into hiding   11/6/06
Oh also Bob, he won't come to the side where the halide is, he more less sits in the middle of the tank off to the side of the halide,
<Interesting. May well be photo-adapting>
he still gets a lot of light, but not like when both halides were on.  If you want to call me about this dilemma my # is XXXX
<Mmm, don't "do" calls... and am out again on the morrow>
, and sorry for the second reply.
Thanks Again,
Michael
<No worries. BobF>

Anemone Splittings BTA beh., tank "size"    10/6/06
Hi Mr. Fenner & Crew,
<Marilyn>
14 months ago, my RBTA did a split, yielding 1 Clone which is doing  super.  
Well, 12 days ago, the original RBTA did another split and 2 l/2  days later, it split again, yielding twin clones : ) so now I have a beautiful  tank with
the original RBTA and 3 clones!  Problem: the original RBTA is  discharging quite a bit of it's mesenterial filaments.  Is this a bad sign  or is this normal?
<Mmm... can/does happen... but these should be "brought back in" within a short while (a few days)>
I don't recall it doing this on the first split 14 mos.  ago.  My water parameters are as follows:  pH 8.0, dKH 10.75, Alk  3.86, CA 395 - 400, & sg 1.025. Temp. 76.5 - 78.5F
<These all look fine>
Another question - I've been able to find a formula on how to figure the actual gallons of water a tank can hold but have not been able to find information as to how to figure out how many gallons of water is actually in a  tank with 100 lbs. of LR and 30 - 40 lbs of live sand ( 2 inch. sand  bed)
<Mmm, could be calculated given the known density of both of these... they are variable...>
displacement so if I do a 15 gallon water change, what would the  percentage of change be?  Do hope you can help me with a formula of  some sort.
<Well... do you want to weigh a given bit of rock and sand and measure their displacement volume to determine densities? Density equals mass over volume, D= m/V... from here you can/could calculate the volume taken up by both (on the basis of their known mass... weight on this planet... as in V= m/D... and "take out" the volume (at about 231 cubic inches per gallon) of the rock and sand... leaving you with water volume...>
Thank you for your help to my two problems/questions.
Marilyn  
<Welcome. BobF>

BTA sys., beh.   9/1/06
Hello there!
<Hey, Mike G with you tonight.>
I have cruised your site for quite sometime and while I've found tons of useful information, I haven't really been able to find the exact answer to my question.  
<I'll try my best to help.>
Yesterday I got a bubble tip anemone and placed him in my 25 gal tank (I have about 20 lbs of live rock, two green Chromis and a percula clown, which I also purchased yesterday in hope of it bonding with the BTA
<Perculas and Bubble Tip Anemones are really a hit or miss match. True and False Percs tend to radiate toward the carpet anemones in nature.>
system consists of an Eclipse filtration system with original fluorescent lighting
<The system you speak of is an unsuitable one for the maintenance of most marine invertebrate life. Protein skimming is generally preferred to conventional filtration methods when dealing with these creatures, and anemones are especially demanding with regard to water cleanliness. Additionally, the light that you are providing this animal with is less then ideal. Anemones require very high amounts of lighting, and your chances of success increase with the amount of light you provide. In most cases, heavy power compact lighting is considered the minimum for a Bubble Tip, though I personally prefer not to keep them in anything less then metal halides. I strongly suggest that you upgrade your lighting, as it would be in the best interest of your anemone. An inexpensive skimmer might also make a wonderful purchase.>
and he seemed to do fine.  I originally put him in the center of my tank on the live rock, and later in the evening he had moved up on the glass towards the top of the tank, near the current from the pump.  He looked fine, bubble tips and all. This morning I woke up to find him in the same condition.  I went out for the afternoon and when I returned, I found him in the same place, still adhering to the glass, but completely closed up (his tentacles were not even visible) and was excreting a brown slimy substance (which I have read is relatively normal).  I realized that I might need better water flow since they tend to like a little current, so I went out and purchased a powerhead and got that running.  
<Good choice/research.>
After a couple of hours, he began to open back up, but his tentacles were completely deflated and dull in color.  His mouth was also open fairly wide which I know is a bad sign.  
<Indeed it is.>
Now, his mouth has closed a bit (it is still open about ½ inch (or a little less) in diameter) and some of his tentacles are plumping back up, but his color is still bad and I can see some slimy whitish/clearish stuff coming off of him.  I have tried searching the site and haven't seen exactly this scenario. I think it might be dying because of the open mouth�.is there anything I can do to save it
<I don't think that the anemone is currently in a critical condition. If you provide it with proper current, lighting, and filtration by way of powerheads (be sure to cover the intakes with a sponge to prevent waking up to anemone puree), a new lighting system (I'd invest in a 100 watt metal halide fixture in your situation, they are not all that expensive these days and would do wonders for the creature. If not, look for a decent power compact setup (I'd consider 200 watts of power compact to be your minimum, though more is always a good thing). Also, look into getting yourself a skimmer.>
and why would this happen so quickly \when all of my water parameters seem to be perfectly fine (pH ~8.2; nitrates ~20mg/L; nitrites 0; ammonia 0; SG
~1.023) and all other livestock is doing well?  
<Your nitrates could be lower, and your salinity could be higher (anemones tend to do better at salinities of 1.024 to 1.025, and the less nitrates that are present, the better.>
Thanks so much for your help!!  
<You're very welcome. Good luck! Mike G>
Ali Myers

Bubble Tip Bleaching...Not Enough Info...Not Enough Light   8/24/06
Hi,
<Hello>
I have had a BTA for 1 year now. When I purchased it it was a maroon color, I was told it was from the Red Sea region, and that the color would not change. After about 5 months it had significantly changed in color. It was a cream color, now it is completely white. I went back to my LFS and explained the problem. He promptly told me that that was no problem and all I had to do was add phytoplankton every other day. So I purchased some and have administered it properly and kept it refrigerated. The outer portion has regained some of its color but the part that fans out and has the bubbles is still white. The bubbles are so small they are almost non-existent. The BTA is housed in a 29 gal. with a PowerGlo light approximately 7 inches from the BTA.
<You are very lucky to have kept the BTA that long under those conditions.  Your tank is too small to house anemones and the lighting you are using is
no where near enough.  Water parameters can change too fast in a small tank, something anemones do not take well.  Lighting on your tank should
have been somewhere near 4 to 5 watts per gallon.>
I put an Iodine supplement in the water once per week. This has not seemed to help at all. I feed the BTA weekly with fresh shrimp.  Should I purchase a different light, different plankton supplement, different food or anything else?
<Yes, larger tank (minimum of 55 gallon), better lighting, but unlikely your present anemone is going to reverse it's condition.  Read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>
Thank you so much for your help.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

Bubble Tip Anemone/Systems   7/10/06
Love your Site, Very helpful,
<Thank you.>   
Couldn't seem to find an answer to this question. Is there an optimal placement for a bubble tip anemone?
<Will choose a site that favor their requirements.>
When I first introduced him to my world, I had him placed mid level (vertically) in the tank. Its a 2ft tall 6 sided 25 gallon tank.
<Not a good tank for anemones, very little surface area per gallon.>
I know now from research that I should have at least 50 gallons for anemone.
<At least.>
Anywho....He moved around a bit, I moved the liverock he was on to the top of the tank, about 6 inches from the surface, and he seems to be doing better, stays in one spot, although my little clown wants nothing to do with it. Is one location better than another, or should the anemone choose his own real estate?
<The anemone will choose his own location.  Hopefully you have enough lighting to satisfy it's needs.  Do read here and related articles and FAQ's above title bar.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
Much Thanks, Dave
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Anemone... health  06/14/2006
Roy,
It is a rose tip bulb anemone. He has been kept for about 6 months in a 40 gallon tank. He has been in the new tank for a total of 5 days. The first
two he was out fully. I think that maybe he is getting used to the new light cycle. I forgot to mention that in the last tank the lights were on between
2pm and 10pm and in the new tank they are on at 8am to 5pm. Do you think that is the issue?
Thanks so much,
Matthew McGhee
<<Matthew:  RBTA anemones are pretty hardy and can go through some dramatic looking changes from time to time.  Since you have been successful at keeping it for awhile, I think it is just getting used to the new tank and you don't have anything to worry about.  As far as the lighting change, it will adapt.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Another Anemone Purchase
Hi, <Hi> I recently purchased a green bubble tip anemone.  I don't really feed it too often because the maroon clown that i have usually does. <Make sure its getting enough> I was just wondering if you could tell me why it shrivels up sometimes. <Normal behavior for excretion or a number other reasons.> It will just do it randomly.  Is this bad? <Depends.> Is this a sign that i should be doing something different.  My water quality is good enough for the other corals in the tank. <What is good enough?  Things in this hobby aren't really every good enough.  Your corals may look fine, but if your water parameters aren't right on target they could just be slowly declining.  Test your water, do frequent water changes and make sure everything is optimal.  I also have to say that these anemones don't really do well in a tank unless you are an expert at keeping them.  Do research on the website - correct lighting, feed schedule, so on... more than likely you will see its eventual decline in your tank.  Good luck, Jen S.> Your reply would be appreciated.

Bubble tip beh.   3/15/06
I have a bubble tip and it keeps hiding under the rocks.
<I wonder what this behavior portends? That is, of what survival value might this be?>
I was told to just leave it alone and it would find its best spot.
<Generally good approach>
I have left it alone and it has stayed in place for 10 days. It seems to get smaller each day and will show some tips in the morning but when the lights come on within 2 hours it pulled all of its tentacles in and looks like it just a blob. The clown was very happy with it when I first got it but it wants to be able to love on it not have a blob.. any suggestions.. Thanks Dale
<... Please read re BTAs on WWM... There is insufficient information offered here, but a good deal posted there re this species aquarium husbandry. Bob Fenner>

Anemones/Behavior  2/18/06
Hi, <Hello Dori>
I have been reading non stop about anemones and have been unable to locate the information I need.  Could be panic is setting in?  <Maybe.> Anyway, I hope you can help.
I have had this bubble tip anemone for a few months and after the first week of adjustment he settled in quite nicely and the clowns took up residence.  About two weeks ago he began to behave differently.  His tips shriveled and his mouth extended. He would close up and later emerge, mouth ok, but his tips never achieved their original form.  A few days ago he decided to relocate, and has not stopped since.  He has made his way all around the tank and up the glass to the top. He is currently hanging upside down on the front glass part of the tank.  ok - I stand corrected - he just launched himself. He is not torn, nor is he oozing anything. his mouth is relatively tight and his tips are very tiny now.  
Is he dying?  should I remove him to prevent the rest of the tank from issues?  the clowns still follow him most of the time, but on occasion they hang out in the torch.  (so much for loyalty). <Dori, when anemones are on the move it generally indicates they are not happy with the conditions present.  It may be lighting, water quality, too small of a tank creating constant parameter shifts, etc.  Provide a little more info please.  A good article for you to read on BTAs.  Gives some insight as to keeping BTAs.>
Any advice?
Thanks in advance <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dori

Bubble Tipped Anemone Mobility   2/8/06
Hi Crew,
<Hey, Mike G with you this afternoon.>
I have a current issue at hand I would like your input on.
<That's what we're here for.>
I purchased a while back a Rose bubble tip anemone from a reputable online company specializing in rare corals, colorations, etc., with a good history
of shipping great specimens.  This purchase was no different in that the BTA was very vibrant and acclimated quite well.  
<Always good news.>
I placed the anemone in a spot of the rockwork that is a little closer than ½ of the way up in my 250 gallon tank.  He promptly inserted his foot in a crevice and seemed happy. This location provided moderate flow (tentacles swaying back and forth), and good light from one of several 150 watt HQI Metal halides directly overhead. Since then, the crevice his foot has been attached to has allowed him to alternate facing either the front or the back of the tank (depending on his mood I guess).  This remained the case for about the first month.
<Sounds ideal for your anemone.>
Recently, we woke up to find that the anemone had walked upward to the next rock higher (very top of the rockwork maybe 12” from the top) and very
strong flow rate blasting from a near by power head (power head rated at 900 gph).  His tentacles are flailing around in the current produced from the
power head and now closer to the same 150 watt MH light as it basically moved mainly vertically and slightly over horizontally.  My main concern is
that this 1 ft. move has now placed the anemone dangerously close (about 2”) from my Spaghetti finger leather (Sinularia flexilis).  My leather was
shipped attached to a very small round rock and I had to utilize underwater epoxy glue to attach him otherwise I would have already moved him.  I am not sure how easy it will be to break the rock from the epoxy and what kind of stress that would be for the leather…although the alternative may be worse.
<In my experience, underwater epoxy doesn't hold very well at all, though I suppose I may only have access to bum epoxy. If you can't remove the leather, you can use powerheads aimed at the anemone's foot to force it to move to where you want it to. That, or you could merely wait for it to get to where it's headed and move all corals out of the way as it goes.>
I am afraid that the anemone may be intentionally encroaching on the leather and either one or both will be damaged/killed.
<I doubt the anemone's movement into the leather is in any way intentional - their movement seems to be, for the most part, entirely blind.>
In case water parameters are of issue here, ammonia/nitrite 0
<Perfect.>
nitrate 2.5
<Fine.>
pH 8.4
<Fine.>
SG 1.025
<Fine.>
temp 76.5 – 78
<A touch low for an anemone, though not at all serious in the least. ~80 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal.>
PO4 0
<Perfect.>
dKH 12
<Fine.>
calcium 380  
<Low - should be ~400-450. I seriously doubt this has anything to do with the anemone's flight, however.>
I do 10% weekly water changes with Tropic Marin Pro Reef mixed/aerated with RO water and aged for one week.  
<You have good taste in salt and a wonderful water change schedule.>
Daily top offs with buffered RO water, skimmer pulling about 1 cup of great skimmate daily.
<Sounds like an incredible system! Good luck with it!>
Best regards,
Steven
<Same to you. Mike G>

Rose Bubble Tip Anemone   2/7/06
I just recently bought a Rose Bubble Tip from a fellow reefer and it is gorgeous.  It is doing very well in my tank.  My question is, when I
purchased it and brought it home I notice some slight discoloration on him.   Now I know he came out of a very well taken care of tank with metal halide
lighting, but he seems to have white around the base of his tentacles and some spots of white on his tentacles.  Could this be some kind of nutrient
deficiency or hopefully not some kind of infection.  Thanks for your help.
<I wouldn't worry about this.  May be from a change in water parameters, lighting, etc.  Did you drip acclimate the anemone?  Is sensitive to sudden changes in ph, SG.  James (Salty Dog)>

BTA beh. health  2/3/06
Hi <Hello Danny.> I've just got a green BTA & it has shriveled up a bit & has something by its mouth that resembles mucus. I would appreciate it if you could advise me if this is normal or is it going to die. My tank holds 200 litres & has sand bed & about 40 kilos of living rock with efficient skimming. All the levels seem fine but the BTA has only been in the tank for about 4 hours, am I jumping the gun? Thanks Danny <Don't pull the trigger, your BTA is just ridding itself of waste.  Give it a chance to adjust.  James (Salty Dog)>

BTA behavior  12/29/05
HI guys, <Hello>
I have a question about my anemone.  I have two bubble tip anemones in my 29 gallon tank that are awaiting the cycling of my 55 gallon.  The tank has 130 watts of power compact lighting over it and both anemone are approx. 6 inches from the surface of the water and about 10 inches form the light.  My
rose BTA is doing exceptionally well and is almost always open and accepting of food.  Recently my green BTA stays closed up more and his tentacles never puff up as much as they did about a month ago.  He still accepts food, but instead of him immediately stinging the food and closing up around it, like he used to, I have to place it near him while he slowly closes around it.   Nitrate, Nitrite are 0.  ammonia is about .25 ppm.  I'm thinking ammonia my
be the problem, but I wonder why it isn't affecting the other anemone?  Any light you could shine on my problem would be great. <If it were the ammonia level it would affect the other anemone also. You may be reading the lowest level your test kit will read. Are you dosing iodine/iodide?  This does help along with adding a trace element supplement.  Your lighting is borderline at best for a 55 gallon tank. I'm thinking you may be feeding too often, no more than once a week.  Also try soaking the food in Selcon or another vitamin product.  Anemones do produce most of their own food by photosynthesis. This is why proper lighting is so important. Keep in mind that anemones are not the easiest creatures to keep for extended periods of time.  Read here also.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm>    Thanks a lot. <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

BTA color 12-14-05
Your guys' website has been a huge part in how well my aquarium has done over the past year.  Thank you guys so much.  
<Always glad to help.>
I recently purchased a green BTA which is doing great under 130 watts of light.  I have been trying to
find out if there is anything I can do to brighten up his color a little more than it is.  He is mostly a dull green/brown with very green tips.  He
looks spectacular under actinic and moonlights, but looks a little on the bland side under daylight.  
<You will often see a washing out of color with full spectrum lighting.>
If there are any suggestions they would greatly appreciated.  I'm considering upgrading to the Coralife 280 watt halide
AquaLight, if you think more light would help his color.  
<It is not the quantity of light that produces color, but the quality. You will want to look into changing your lighting spectrum to more of a 20K or actinic style.>
Have seen this stuff called Black Powder by Marc Weiss' supplements.  I don't know if you've heard anything or seen results from it.  It says it can greatly
increase color and growth, but many forums I've seen say his supplements are mostly sugar and don't do much over a longer period of time.
<From my experience with that product I would have to agree that it is not worth the time or money.  You would be better served to use that money toward more water changes, frequent carbon changes, and switching your light spectrum to the more blue that you are wanting. Travis>
Thanks again
for all of your help.

Inflated Bubble Anemone Tips 12-05-05
I started with one BTA, and over the course of a year I have ended up with four in my aquarium.
<Gotta love that.>
The original split the first time, and one kept the nice inflated tips. The other ones just have long skinny tentacles.
<I would be willing to guess they are in a different area of the tank.>
My clownfish live in two anemones, that always stay entwined, as if they were one. My question is why did only one anemone keep the nice bubble tips, and is there anything I can do to encourage the other anemones to inflate their tips?
<It is not known why BTA's lose their tips. Some say it is due to water conditions or placement in the tank. Not much you can do to change them, but keep your water as clean as possible and let them find their own happy spot in the tank. Travis>
Thank you very much. 

Bubble tip anemone - splitting? 11-28-05
I have searched a number of items regarding anemone splitting and unable to fine anything directly related to my situation. Just purchased a bubble tip anemone about a week ago.
<Bubble tips are prone to split after being moved.>
There is a hole where I believe the mouth should be. In other words the anemone is now the shape of a donut. Is this the early stages of splitting or is this the beginning of the end?
<Could be either one. If it begins to deteriorate, remove it.>
The anemone remains attached to the rock and the tentacles continue to inflate and deflate.
<That is a good sign.>
If it if splitting, how long does this process usually take?
<A healthy bubble tip can split over-night.>
Thank you in advance for your reply. I have found your site very useful.
Regards,
Rick
<Travis> 

Wandering Bubble tip Anemone 11/16/05
I have a bubble anemone in my 55 gallon tank. They are settled on a 10 pound piece of live rock at the top (should they be in sand?) 
<No. BTA's are reef dwelling. They should be in/on rock.>
Days after I got it, it split in 2 and both were hosted by my 2 perculas I have 1 18000k light and 2 blue actinic lights in the tank. 
<Splitting is often stress induced, so it is no surprise that it occurred when the anemone was moved.>
One anemone became twice as large as it was originally but the other is constantly moving, has only a few tentacles sometimes, and is usually closed. The anemone is always in weird shapes and doesn't look that good. What's happening to it? 
<It is common for the "daughter" anemone to move about after a split. It also sounds like yours may have split very unevenly, possibly due to injury. As long as the anemone is safe from pump/powerhead inlets, I would let it wander (not much you can do anyway). If it settles soon, it will probably be OK, if it doesn't it may not make it, but it sounds like you parent will be OK. Best Regards. AdamC.> 
In most of the FAQ pages I read on Caulerpa, the problem seemed to be on how to get rid of this stuff rather than my problem. I know some of you (Anthony) prefer Chaetomorpha rather than Caulerpa, so I thought maybe I should try that instead. Does the Chaetomorpha have the same nutrient utilization capabilities as the Caulerpa? 
<Chaetomorpha does not grow quite as fast as some Caulerpa, so it does not take up nutrients quite as fast, however it does seem less sensitive and far less prone to "crash" and re-release nutrients into the tank. Also, for reef keepers, it is far less noxious to corals than Caulerpa.>
Second question, which is unrelated: I have an approximately 30" Zebra moray that is very healthy and active, coming out of the rocks on occasion to take a look around. What I have noticed though, is that my 4" Bicolor dwarf angel will take bites or nip at the body of the eel any time he comes near him. The eel will jerk anytime this happens and it doesn't appear to be doing any damage to the skin, but I am afraid that it will discourage the eel from coming out and/or stress him. At this point it is only occasional but thought I would check with you guys to see if this is anything I should be worried about. Again thanks for your dedication and help. Steven R. Vejil 
<This interaction could go on forever without any serious problem, but there is a fair risk that the eel will either eat the angel or the angel will begin to cause injury or intimidate the eel from coming out to eat. I would suggest separating them, especially if the interaction gets any worse. Best Regards, AdamC.>

Entacmaea quadricolor and Clown Behavior 10/9/05
If you cant have two anemones in a tank without poisoning each other is it okay to keep them if they split into 2 or more?
<Yes keeping a clone of an original anemone would be one instance where keeping more than 1 in the same tank would be acceptable.>
Also I just got a bubble anemone and my small clown fish just started swimming in it but the other won't (percula) and they used to swim side by side all day, is there any way to get the other clown (this one is larger) into it?
<There is no way to force him into it, he will go into when he wants or he won’t. It’s quite common to see a tank with clowns and anemones, and no hosting “action” occurring. The other possibility is that the other clown will not allow his/her partner in the anemone. It’s also quite common to (when viewing a pair of clowns) see the female resting in the anemone with male just outside patrolling the territory. For more on clown behavior check out Joyce Wilkerson's book “Clownfish.”>
Also how big will this anemone get in a 55 gallon tank?
<Have seen Entacmaea quadricolor at 12” in diameter but in captivity they often split before reaching such a size. Make sure to read up in the WWM FAQ’s re: BTA. Adam J.> 

Entacmaea quadricolor behavior 10/9/05
I had my anemone for a week now and my small percula now started using it. The anemone looked healthy until night when its mouth (center) was open wide and its tentacles started to look thinner. Do you know what’s happening?
<Sounds like normal night time behavior for Entacmaea quadricolor. They will usually attach their “foot” within the rockwork and retreat or deflate during night. Also remember that anemones are mostly composed of the water that surrounds them, from time to time they will expel the water within them and take on new water. Read in the WWM Re: BTA Care, Adam J.> 

Anemone, BTA, Clowns 9/23/05
Good Day,
I have a BTA with two maroon clowns hosting it.  The BTA has since split into 3 and my maroon clowns are so comfortable that they have spawned numerous times and are still spawning.  I will be moving to a place which is 5 hours drive away and intend to move all my fishes and most corals along.  However, I am still contemplating whether I should have a BTA.  
From a small BTA, it split into 3 and all 3 have grown very big.  From short tentacles, they have become long and stringy.  I understand that clown fish do not require an anemone in captivity, but I would like to give them a comfortable and familiar 'home'.  I would also like to minimize the possibility of the clowns hosting my other corals, such as frogspawn and Octobubble.  Is there any particular anemone that maroon clowns would host that doesn't grow quickly?  If BTA is the only option, are there any reasons why it's tentacles would grow long and is there any way to prevent this? <No reason I can think off.  If I were having the luck you are having with the BTA's I would leave well enough alone.  The BTA's are generally the first choice for the maroon clowns.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you for your time and advice. <You're welcome>
Ai Kun

Curling Tentacles on RBTA  9/5/05
Mr. Fenner or Mr. Calfo,
<Marilyn>
I've checked the FAQ forum on your site and have not been able to come up with an answer to my question so am writing to you.  A bit of background:  I've had my RBTA for just over a year now and he/she split in 2 on July 10  : )  the clone is smaller  since it wasn't an equal split.  Anyhow, both original RBTA and Clone are doing fine up to now.  Clone is still doing fine but the original RBTA is displaying twisted and curled (like a cinnamon bun) tentacles.  I can't figure out why this is happening.
<Could be a few causes...>
My water parameters:  Temp. 76 - 78 degrees F., pH 8.2, SG 1.026, dKH 11.5, Alk. 4.11, CA 410, NO2 (0), NO3 (10) NH3 (0)  I'm doing a 15 % water change weekly.  RBTA diet is a variety of Mysis, raw shrimp, formula one flakes, and prime reef.  I'm also dosing the tank with DT Phytoplankton and Zooplex.  My tank is a 60 gal with approx. 100 lbs. of LR and 2 inches of live sand running on a Bak Pak 2R Reef ready skimmer.
Please advise as to why the RBTA's tentacles are behaving this way and what I need to do to untwist these tentacles.  It hurts me to see them twisted like that.
Thank you for your help in this matter.
Marilyn
<Could be "nothing", but I would "step up" the feeding of the one specimen... try three times a week... for a while... And re-direct some/more circulation (likely via a powerhead, submersible pump) toward its general direction. Bob Fenner>

Re: Curling Tentacles on RBTA  9/5/05
Mr. Fenner,
<Marilyn>
Thank you for your speedy reply re the curling tentacles on my RBTA.  I will increase the feeding as well as re-direct the power head to send more flow to the original RBTA.  Actually, both anemones will be receiving more water flow since they're on the same LR.  
Thank you again.
Marilyn
<Ahh! You're soon to be in the Entacmaea business! Bob Fenner>

- BTA Problems -
Hi,
I am so sorry to bother you and I have looked through WWM to find my answer but I do not think I have time!  My BTA has been eating and fine!  I asked a member of wet web about what other things I can put with my BTA.  Someone told me other cnidarians. <<No...RMF>> I have had ONE little green zoanthid and I added a colony of star polyps and a very small colony (7 or 8) yellow polyps with the longer tentacles and one hairy mushroom.  My BTA is shrunk and excreting clearish/whitish mucus.  What is going on?  He did that ONCE before due to a PH change, but I put him in the sun and he came back.  Is this just the BTA excreting waste?? <It's probably not waste. Most often this is a defense mechanism, but can also be part of a process where their mucus is shed and then replaced. Still, I would give a hard examination to water quality and perhaps execute a change to keep everything on the up and up.>
He has been puffy and fat and happy.  I added those additions about 3 or 4 days ago.  Should I remove my pink star polyps and the yellow polyps and or the one hairy mushroom and return them to the store? <Well... at the very least I'd look at their placement - they shouldn't be to close to each other.> Or is this a normal BTA thing?  My Rose BTA is my favorite!  The tank is 55 gallon within all YOUR good water condition parameters. PLEASE HELP... yes I typed in BTA and Bubble Tip Anemone excreting mucus, and that type of wording for search and I am not finding my answers as I think I am wasting precious time! <Would still suggest you read through all our BTA FAQs as you will learn something at then it won't be a waste of time.> HELP!!!
<Cheers, J -- >

Bubble Tip Anemone Follow-up
The anemone has moved (I'm not surprised) and it's only the second day. I anticipate it moving more. It moved while my lights were off. It moved behind my rockwork where it gets little current and almost no light. I understand I have to let the anemone be and let it find its "spot". I am worried about my SPS and zoanthids in the tank. I don't want to lose all my corals because my anemone is trying to find its "spot". Should I move my corals temporarily out of my tank? If things get out of hand, how do I remove an anemone from a rock?
Thanks!
>>>It will continue to move for a while I think. Best thing is to follow the advice I already gave you, and go from there.
If you have to remove it, the foot can be carefully and SLOWLY pried from the rock.
Your decision on moving the corals, I can't make that call from here!
Good Luck
Jim<<<

- The Motivation of the Rose Anemone -
Hi, I read a lot on your site, and I still have not come up with a answer to this one. I purchased a rose anemone last night. I sit it on a rock in the middle of my tank a big rock, the rock had a hole in it about the size of a quarter, maybe a little bigger. why would the anemone decide to go in the hole??? 
<There is no way to know the motivations of anemones.> <<Is what this species does. RMF>>
And can it get out with out hurting itself? I never dreamed of it doing this or I would not have sit it on the rock. I checked my water and everything is good, will he ever come out? What you can see of him, still is pretty and red. Should I try shaking him out, don't want to hurt him but I don't know how to get him out, or is happy there???
<I think you need to be patient... if your lighting is adequate, and your water quality excellent, then this anemone will make an appearance in the not too distant future. Being moved from one system to another can have a large impact on an animal made mostly of water - things you probably didn't think to check like alkalinity do make a difference when moving these animals from one system to another. Give it a week or so and it should be fine, all other things being where they need to be. Cheers, J -- > 

- Rose Anemone, Sound Familiar? -
Hi, I purchased a rose anemone, I placed it on live rock in the middle of my tank. What I didn't think about it doing was going inside of a hole in my live rock.  I can't get it out and don't know what to do, just let stay in the hole??? 
<Leave it alone.> 
The hole in the rock is only about the size of a quarter... can it get out on its own with out it hurting it self??? 
<Yes... the animal is probably 98% water or more, can shape itself as needed to get in and out of such spots.> 
I know it got in there on its own, and can't figure out why it done this. It had a lot of room on the rock to sit, all my water test are good, I am running 2 SmartLite pc 96 10,000 k and 2 55 watt 10,000k. My tank is 135, nothing bothering the rose, still can't figure out why it done this. What you can see of it is still red and looks good. Will it ever come out of the hole?
<It will come out eventually, but it sounds to me like you don't have enough light in the tank to keep this animal healthy for a reasonable amount of time. I suggest you consider an upgrade to metal halide if you want to treat this animal correctly. Cheers, J -- > 

BTA behaviour
Dear Crew
<Peter>
Hope you are all well.
<Yes my friend>
I admit it - I gave in to temptation and bought a bubble tip anemone. I was assured it was one of the easier ones to keep, and the store will always take a healthy or slightly ailing purchase back if it turns out to be unsuitable. That seems a good service.
<Yes, an admirable offer, warranty>
Now the question. My anemone looks excellent most of the time. It lives at the bottom of one particular rock it seems to like the shape of, and spends half a day at the front, and then goes through a hole low down to get to the reverse side. Having squeezed through a relatively small hole to move position, it then looks excellent for another 12 hours or so, having shriveled up for a short time. At the moment it looks - well, great, and the percula clowns love it. Does this shriveling up to get under the bottom of the rock sound healthy?
<Does happen... in the wild less than in captive conditions... If it is eating, appears healthy otherwise...>
Sorry for the daft question.
All the best from a not sunny England.
Peter H
<Do please take a read through our BTA materials: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm scroll down. Cheers, Bob Fenner> 

BTA all balled up
Good afternoon,
<Hi there>
Yesterday, I did an extensive search through the bubble tip anemones, only to not find exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully someone out there could shed some light on the subject, or at least put me at ease. Here goes:
First the basic info -
37 gallon
Fish: (2) ocellaris clowns, (1) 3 stripe (which will be on his way out soon enough), and a lawnmower blenny.
Inverts: (1) peppermint shrimp, (1) emerald crab, various red & blue leg hermits, Mexican turbo snails, Astrea, Cerith and Nassarius snails.
Corals: a few yellow polyps, brown buttons, white and green striped Palythoa, various colored zoanthids, Ricordea, and mushrooms.
Lighting: (3) 65 watt pc lighting (12 hrs on, 12 off)
Filtration: (1) AquaClear 50 - sponge cleaned weekly, and carbon replaced every single month without exception.
Skimmer: Excalibur hang-on
Water movement: (1) Maxijet 1200, and the outputs from the skimmer (powered by a Rio 800) and the AquaClear keep things moving pretty good - I'm looking to add another Maxijet in the near future.  
All together, probably 60 lbs live rock, and a shallow sand bed.
my BTA has been in the tank for almost a month, and the tank itself went through a cycle that seemed like no other! It has been stable for about the last 6 to 7 months. The tank is fed once a day with a mixture of Nori, raw shrimp, freeze dried brine, and formula 1 flake, (all soaked in Selcon), along with DT's phyto every other day. over the past weekend, I decided to add about another 10 lbs of base rock.
<This is a small tank/volume, a bunch of life to be moving about, adding so much in such a short time span...>
Of course when adding the rock, other things had to be moved around and re-stacked. I also looked at it as re-arranging things a bit to break up territorial issues between my clowns and my 3-stripe.
<This aggression will only get worse in time...>
Anyway, after adding the new base rock, and doing some scraping and cleaning, and so forth, I did my weekly water change. I specifically waited to the very end to do the water change. The rock my BTA attached itself to happens to be the back of the rock with all my Palythoa and zoanthids.
<Oh oh...>
I had to move this rock up a little, and off to the side a little. The new location appears to have similar water movement, but it happens to be exposed more to the light. I specifically did not try to move the anemone itself, as I didn't want to tear it or stress it any further than what I had to.
<Good>
After the whole cloud of crap finally started to settle / filter out, I cleaned the sponge in the filter to remove excess garbage, and changed my carbon. All water parameters appear to be in good standing: pH - 8.2- 8.3, alk - normal (Red Sea "generalized" test), temp 79º - 80º, specific gravity - 1.025, Ca - 460 (a little high), ammonia - 0, nitrites - 0, nitrates - <10. 
I don't test for anything else, and rarely test the amount shown here. usually only sg, pH and alk. Now, the BTA has only opened up maybe halfway, but usually stays tightly balled up (looks like a purplish red onion).  It still has all of its coloration (purple- maroonish colored base, very green tentacles with pink tips). When it is partly open, the mouth looks to be very tight, and I can't see any signs of decomposing. It's not expelling any waste that I can see. I know that they will move wherever they want to go when they want to, but this is the second day, and it appears that it hasn't moved an inch. Hopefully I'm right and everything will be ok within a couple of days. Should I attempt to feed it, or should I wait until it is fully open?
<I'd definitely wait>
Right now, my intentions are to just leave it alone. Any comments, suggestions, constructive criticisms? Hopefully I'm over-reacting. Sorry for the long winded message, but I wanted to put as much info out there as possible. Thanks.
<IMO you are not over-reacting... There is a potential disaster brewing here... with the small volume, so much chemical change going on and trying to keep this anemone in the presence of the zoanthids... Please read re these animals: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm particularly their chemical incompatibility, danger to humans... In this tiny tank you will either have to be super-diligent in making water changes, checks on quality, use of chemical filtrants... perhaps add volume, filtration, other mediating influences through the addition of a refugium... or get rid of the zoanthids... possibly the anemone in time. Small volumes are just inherently too unstable... to house mixed cnidarian populations, particularly some groups. Bob Fenner>

Bubble Tip Anemone
Hi! 
<Good day>
Thanks for a great site! I have been reading the information and the FAQs, but have to admit that I'm not still sure if I have an answer to my question. Every time I saw a topic reading "hiding BTA" I thought "Ah, I found it!" But... I write to