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FAQs on Anemone Placement, Moving 2

Related Articles: Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, Cnidarians, Acclimating Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting, Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Anemone Placement 1, Anemones, Anemones 2, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Selection, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Health Anemone Feeding

Best to let your anemone decide where it wants to be

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Epicystis crucifer     12/7/17
Hi I got one rock anemone Epicystis crucifer and it came so that it sits in shell so how should I insert in the tank, now it is in small hole in one rock but it doesn't stay there, the whole shell and anemone falls to bottom,
so should I "glue" the shell to rock or ??
<I would just wedge the shell in about the place you want the Anemone to settle on and be patient. If it wants to move, it will... better that this species be placed in the sand, attached to the shell/hard substrate, like they live in the wild>
Thank you all ready
Best regards
John Hyttinen
<Welcome John. Bob Fenner>

Anemone and a Big A** Clam are Attached! 10/22/07 Guys, <Ya got one of the girls tonight!> Any idea how I can get a big bubble-tip to separate off of a big clam shell that I have in my tank? <Sometimes a little gentle persuasion with a credit card can do the trick but you must be very careful as not to injure the foot. If you can, under careful observation (so that the anemone doesn't get injured, i.e. sucked into an overflow/powerhead etc, which you hopefully have covered to prevent this in the first place or damage any other creatures in your tank) you can figure out a way to make the anemone unhappy with its' current location, such as shading it, you might get is to detach on it's own.> it seems the base of the anemone has its base attached to the shell, so my clam will only open about half-way, and it's (the clam) just plain not looking good? <Yes, you should address this. How can I safely get that sucker off of there? <Can be a challenge! I wish the in-house anemone expert was available, she may have more suggestions, but she is unavailable because of a death in her family.> You guys are awesome! <Thank you for your kind words.> thanks, Aaron <Welcome! Mich>

Down Home Where the Anemones Roam - Anemone Roaming...  11/9/05 Okay, I have any escape artist on my hand. A true percula who some how finds a way out of my tank. Last week I found him in my over-flow box, <Shades of "Nemo"!> stuck in the pre-filter just before being sucked down the pipe into the wet dry. Two nights ago he jumped up the current from the over-flow of my protein skimmer. I found him on his last breathe and threw him back into the tank. Friday morning I bought an electric green long tentacle anemone, in efforts to calm him down.  <...?> The anemone still has not posted up anywhere and is just kinda roaming and rolling around in the current. <Not good> He will not stick anywhere, and the clown will not go in him. Do you have any tips or advice for me to get the anemone to find a home, and is that the reason the clown will not go in him. Thanks <Uhh, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemoneplacemtfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> 

GIGO Means "Garbage In, Garbage Out"  11/9/05 Hey thanks for not answering any of my questions, not very helpful. Is an LTA the wrong anemone for a True Percula? Of the three local fish stores two say yes one says no. What do you think? any tips to help him find a home and stop just rolling around? Its been 5 days. <... we have a site... the acronym... WWM... tens of thousands of visitors per day... thank goodness or something of the sort that most folks have the courtesy to read our "FAQs on FAQs" and "Asking a Query"... as requested... Please do so... your answers are posted (over and over) there. Bob Fenner> 

Anemones And Sessile Inverts... Never A Good Mix - 07/29/05 My BTA has decided to attach himself to the bottom of my button polyp rock so that when he inflates he brushes against some of them. <<This is why most here don't advocate placing motile invertebrates in the same system with sessile invertebrates.>> They are turning white and I'm assuming that they are being stung. <<They are>> I only have a few corals in a 105 gallon tank and there are plenty of other rocks for him to choose from. <<This is not the fault of the anemone.>> Is there any way to get him off this particular rock?  I have  moved the polyp rock from the top of the tank where it was getting maximum light  and current to the bottom shadier part of the tank to see if this gets him to move. <<This may or may not work, but you are now stressing both animals.>>   So far, it's not working.  I don't want to pry him off or hurt  him. <<No, prying will likely damage/kill the anemone.  They can sometimes be "gently" coaxed from smooth surfaces with a carefully applied thumbnail, but trying to forcefully remove them from rock is ill advised.>> Any solutions? <<Mmm...place the rock back where the anemone will be/was happy and accept the demise of the polyps...learn from the experience and treat the (any) anemone accordingly.>> Thanks!  I've been reading your sight for hours and can't find the answer, so far. <<The "answer" is not to mix these critters in the first place my friend.  Regards, EricR>>

Sebae Anemone Removal 7/4/05 Dear Crew, <If I'm to be called dear, do I get a diamond ring to go along with that?  I could pawn it off to Barry for a few more clams...> I have three large brown Sebae Anemones in my 75-gallon reef aquarium that are crowding out the other inhabitants.  I have only one anemonefish, a Maroon, that appreciates the Sebaes but otherwise, they are driving away my corals, Fiji Trees, and Condylactis. What is the best way to remove a Sebae Anemone from a live rock?  I've considered yanking it with a gloved hand or amputating it with a long sharp knife but I thought you may have more sophisticated methods. <I like to take a big block of magnesium, light one end of it, and roast them out.  A syringe of nitroglycerin plus a pistol shrimp would work too...especially if you wanted to rid yourself of the shrimp as well.  Too bad concrete shoes don't work in this case.  Seriously, a 10-15 minute constant massage (aka irritation) at the base usual works, possibly accompanied by ice and a credit card to use as a bit of coercion.   Regards, Paul. <M. Maddox, overtired>

Wandering Anemone... First - you guys have an awesome website. My wife and I spend hours and hours researching things before we buy and the plethora of information is outstanding! Thanks for keeping it online! <Glad to hear that you enjoy it! We're thrilled to bring it to you! Scott F. here today.> On to the issue at hand.  I received my BTA 3 days ago and have been having difficulty getting it to settle down and attach to something. So much so, that last night it inflated itself enough to fall off out of a crevice and I found it completely deflated sitting on the bottom.  <Not an uncommon experience...These anemones will often "wander" until they find an acceptable spot to settle down into.> Here's the tank setup. Tank is a 46 gal bow front 192 watt compact fluorescents from Coral Life with moonlight (approx 4.3watts/gal) 45 lbs Fiji live rock 20 lbs Dry rock 3 inch sand bed mix of Cayman sand and Pacific coast, live sand Emperor Bio-Wheel 400gph with 4 carbon/filter cartridges Red Sea Prism Deluxe Protein Skimmer 3x Penguin 1140 (300 gph) power heads each with a Hydor rotating flow deflector The tank has been up for about 6 months now and has all sorts of little critters, copepods, amphipods, and other unknowns. Tank Inhabitants: 15 hermit crabs 1 Astraea Conehead Snail <<Conehead snails?  Are they from France?>> 1 Margarita Snail 4 Nassarius Snails NO FISH (tank is running fallow for 60 days due to ich - only my 2 clowns survived the ich onslaught and they are in a hospital tank downstairs. Note - this tank has never been treated with copper, which is why it needs to run fallow.) <Glad to hear that you're embracing this treatment technique...It really is one of the best ways to treat ich in display tanks, IMO.> Water Parameters: I use Coral Life salt. Temp - 79 degrees Salinity - 1.023 - Marine Labs Hydrometer (tested 3 times to be sure) Ammonia - 0 ppm - Salifert Test Nitrite - 0 ppm - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Test Nitrate - <10 ppm (I'd guess 7 ppm) - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Test pH - 8.4 (lights on) - Red Sea Test pH - 8.3 (lights off) - Red Sea Test Iodine - 0.025 - SeaChem Test (supplemented with Salifert Reef Iodine) Calcium - 380 - Salifert Test (supplemented with Salifert All in One and Coral Grower) <Parameters sound fine. I'll bet that you can get that nitrate level down with a few easy tweaks to your system...> The long story - I received a great looking anemone Thursday afternoon, which I drip acclimated for about 2 hours. Once it was done getting acclimated I reached in grabbed onto the foot and very gently twisted it in the water to help whisk away some of the scummy matter that shipped with the creature (read this from one of the FAQ's here). I then moved it into a container containing tank water and lowered it into my display tank. <Sounds fine.> I set the creature which looked like a 3-4 inch anemone onto a ledge which was sheltered by other live rock. The crevice that I put it in was about the most ideal spot I have in my reef - about 5 to 6 inches from the surface, great water flow with nothing direct and the closest power head is about 14 inches away, great spot for it to tuck in its foot and show off its tentacles. To my surprise, about 1 to 2 hours after it was in the tank it doubled to tripled its size and soon the bubble tips came out. It looked great; the majority of the bulbs were plump with bubble tips with some looking a bit more clubbish but nothing out of the norm according the WetWebMedia. I would estimate this creature to be between 6-8 inches in size. The creature lived like that for 2 days until last night.  A side note, I never knew if it actually attached to this crevice since I was the one who placed it.  Anyways, last night I noticed that it had decided to blow up its foot to a huge proportion, so much so that during the night it knocked itself off the ledge down onto the sand. This morning when I found her she had completely deflated. Down to less than 2 inches and her once huge 1 to 2 inch tentacles were paper thin and about 1/8th of an inch. She had also started to go inside out. Again, she hadn't attached herself to anything and wasn't wandering about the tank. I immediately put my hand in the tank and moved her back up to the crevice. After about 5 hours she was back to 80% of her once huge size and after about 9 hours she is plump once more. <Such "inflating" and "deflating", although unnerving, is somewhat common as these animals acclimate to new conditions, in my experience.> The problem is though, she is consistently "floating". The slight current in the tank (I shut off my middle power head so reduce the current) keeps drifting her off the rocks. I have yet to see her get a good grab on anything under her foot. Tonight she is even being so finicky that she seems to like getting her foot above her, she keeps folding her tentacles in and expanding her foot. What's weird is that she looks healthy, the bulbs are still inflated and the foot looks great. Have I done something wrong to upset this magnificent creature? <Probably not. The animal is simply reacting to the stress of adjusting to a new situation and environment. This will take some time. Probably the best thing that you can do is to do...nothing! Sometimes, just leaving the animal alone will allow it go through the adjustment that it needs to- at its own pace.> What can I do to assist her in taking a hold of something - I know she will wander to where she likes it best, but the first step is to get her to wander by attaching to something! <Again- I would not interfere excessively, unless the animal appears to be headed for a filter intake or something equally dangerous.> Please help, I don't want to see her die or get injured because she hasn't gripped onto anything.  <I think that you are doing all that you can at this point. As long as the tank has a variety of places for the animal to attach to, I think that your patient observation and the readiness to intervene if the animal is in danger is the best thing that you can do.> Attached are 4 pictures. It's hard to believe that picture 01 is actually the same creature as in 03, but it is. Thanks for your reply!!! <Glad to be here for you. I wish I had a more detailed response for you, but sometimes the best thing to do is to simply observe...Hang in there! Regards, Scott F.> <<Marina, wishing she could find that original email w/photos!>>

Green Bulb Anemone I am a new hobbyist. 4 days ago I added a green bulb anemone and it will not stay in one place. It continually moves under the live rock where it deflates. What do I need to do to keep it in one spot?  <Hopefully you did some research on this before you bought it and have the proper lighting for it. But, it's not unusual for the anemone to move. It's trying to find the ideal spot as to current and lighting. Unfortunately they usually end up where you don't want them and there is not much you can do about it. James (Salty Dog)> 

Urgent Bulb Anemone Question and others I have a 125 Tank with 576w pc lighting (4 dual daylight and 2 dual actinic). Water Params: 0 Nitrates 0 Nitrites pH 8.5 <A bit high> Temp 76 - 77 Daily Inhabitants: Yellow Tang 2 Ocellaris Clowns 6 Small Green Reef Chromis 1 Lawnmower Blenny 1 Rose BTA Multiple Zoanthids & Shrooms (Small) And a couple of Leathers (Toadstool & Finger) I read through and usually it is just "do not worry it's just roaming the tank looking for a home". <What? Your anemone? It should NOT roam about> but... Here is the situation. about a month ago I moved from a 55 gallon (added More CURED rock, the lawnmower blenny) to the 125 which had been running with a sand substrate, 50lbs Rock and the Chromis for about a month. We just put the bulb anemone in about 4-5 days ago and for the first few days he wandered as expected and I was just moving leathers when I would think he was situated in his spot. Yesterday he kind of quit roaming and is now just "all over the place" he is refusing to anchor his foot and I have found him upside down a couple of times. <Not good... gets stung by your other cnidarians... upsets them...> The tentacles appear inflated nicely but it worries me that he is not settling on his foot. I have cut some of the powerheads off because they were just blowing him around and around. Should I be worried? <Yes> How much longer should I give it before I try something else such as secluding him for flow with more rocks (i.e. creating a calmer setting in the aquarium or removal)? <I would "tie that kangaroo down sport"... place some sort of restraint over the animal in an area with rock where you want it to stay... or move it to other circumstances... another system> He appears healthy, but I believe if he were to decline that my reaction time could be too slow to prevent harm to other inhabitants. <You are wise here> If I keep the powerheads off like they are then I do not believe I will have enough flow to make him happy and even if he settles now, will he likely move and do all of this again when I turn the heads back on? I do not want to lose him or agitate him to death, so what do I do? <See the above... do NOT let this animal roam about. Bob Fenner>

Anemone placement and feeding 11/23/04 I just recently bought a Anemone a day ago, and it looks healthy, its moves, and attaches itself to the bottom, but I've been trying to feed it with dried-shrimp, and it seems to captures it with its tentacles, but for some reason, after the shrimp was captured, the Anemone lets it go. Why is that? <Dried shrimp is not a very natural food source.  Fresh or thawed frozen meaty foods are better choices.> And another question is, I have my Anemone on the bottom of the tank, is it recommended to place it as high as possible to absorb more light? <Several anemones are given the common name "Flower anemone" some live among rocks, some among sand.  You should provide the correct habitat with intense enough light for the animal no matter where it decides to settle in.  Please do research the correct ID for this animal and it's care, and in the future it is best to do this before purchase!  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Anemone hiding under rock ledge Hey Crew, I have to say I found your site about three weeks ago and haven't been able to stop reading. >>Whoo hoo!> My setup was a 90 gal. FOWLR up until twenty days ago when I purchased my first LTA.  Currently I have only four fish a sebae clown, flame angel, domino damsel and a yellow tailed blue damsel. I wanted to move to a reef tank but can't purchase any corals because of the angels picking habit thus the anemone.  My equipment consists of RO water, canister filter, skimmer and 2 x Hagen 402 and 2x Hagen 802 power heads. Water parameters are within specs. Initially my lighting was only 260 watts of PC so I placed the anemone on the live rock 7" from the tank top.  That night he moved to the middle of the tank about 14" from the top of the tank and stayed buried in some macro algae.  Four days later my new 400 W 6500K Iwasaki light showed up and I installed it 12" above the tank top and removed the PC. I was feeding him every second day a little thawed "Reef Gourmet" food and shredded mysis shrimp.  Ten days later I moved the MH down 1".  The next day when the lights came on he continually got smaller and smaller and I assumed he was going to expel some waste.  Finally he just disappeared all the way into the little hole in the live rock and popped out the other side upside down under a ledge.  The problem is he doesn't get any light and I can't feed him until I figure out how to get it to him without someone stealing it.  He has been in this position for six days and I'm getting a little impatient. >>Sounds like some light shock to me. They generally move when they are unhappy with current for lights, so the change may have blasted it.>> My questions are; 1)     Will he move again when he gets hungry or wants light? >>Hopefully!>> 2)     Should I wait a little longer to feed him? How long can he survive this way? >>If he isn't extended he probably wont eat. You could try some small stuff, like mysids gently wafted towards him by a turkey baster>> 3)     What average height should my 400 W MH be at? >>That depends on what you want and how your animals deal with the new, bright light. I wouldn't move anything till the anemone acclimates.>> Regards, Glenn >>Rich>>

Anemone Keeps Moving I have a pink tipped Hawaiian anemone. the first week it was doing great.   now it seems that it is in constant motion- all over the tank.  its looking like its beginning to deflate and one of its tips fell off...is there a general direction you could point me in...thanks a million << Unfortunately No, I don't have any good advice.  These anemones (and most anemones) will move all over until they find a place they really like.  I would make sure you have enough light, and proper water quality.  That is the first step in making anemones happy. >> Adie <<  Blundell  >> -

Acrobatic anemone- Hi. I just purchased a 3 inch Rose Bulb anemone for my 125 gal. I acclimated the specimen for an hour before releasing the anemone into the tank. However, it appears to be upside down with it's "foot" on top on the sand substrate. Is this OK? <Nope> Will the anemone float around and right itself? <Given time it should right itself, but there's no reason to let it sit there upside down.> I tried to flip it over but it's slightly stuck to the glass. <You can use a credit card (preferably one with a low interest rate) to gently pry it off the glass, not a big deal.> So I quit trying to flip it for fear of tearing or damaging the specimen. <If you think you might tear it, then stop, 'do no harm'> Also, I have nearly 600 watts of PCs. Will this be adequate for the anemone? <Should be, try to locate it somewhere high on the rocks, although they're really the ones who decide where its final resting place will be, not you. -Kevin> Thank you in advance. Rob W. 

Killed the Clam - Illegal Bivalve Error! I had a 12" Derasa clam that was awesome looking and within 12 hours it sunk half way into it's shell, and within another 12 hours was dead, what a shame. I have no idea what caused it, <:( Try reading our FAQs regarding Tridacna spp. clams for more info> but on the bright side the shell is still awesome looking and I want to add an anemone to my tank for my 3 perculas that swim in my flower pots. Can I put an anemone in the shell, it's about 3/4 open (won't move in any direction now)? Will no direct light effect every type of anemone <Pretty much every tropical anemone available for aquarists>, or are there certain species that will stay in one place, i.e. the shell, be okay with indirect light, and be a home for my clowns? <Most likely not...even getting anemones to stay in one place can be a pain> Thanks a bunch? Good question huh? Original? <No problem. M. Maddox> 

Re: Specifics on E. quadricolor Is this an anemone that will dig it's base into the sand and spread out, or do they prefer to be on liverock? <To be honest with you...I have seen this anemone on both so I really do not know which one this species prefers. You can just add some liverock and I am sure the anemone will quickly find his favorite spot somewhere, IanB>

You can Lead a Sebae to Live Rock, but you Can't Make it Stick!  >I've had a sebae anemone for about a month and one day about a week ago, I came home from work and he had fallen from where he was perched on the live rock.  >>They don't just fall off, this is a method of moving, which means it wasn't happy where it was.  >He just kind of looked like a tumbleweed rolling in the current along the substrate. I tried repositioning him up on the live rock and he wouldn't stick.  >>Well, you can lead a sebae to live rock, but you can't make it stick. You need to figure out what it "wants". Lighting, feeding, current, something. Let it be where it is.  >I turned off my powerheads for about an hour and tried to give him a chance to adhere to the rock again.  >>Believe me, anemones have quite the sticking power, and can move against rather strong current. Powerheads won't do much to dissuade an anemone from sticking where it wants.  >After turning on the powerheads, about an hour later he fell off again. I kind of positioned him next to the live rock on the substrate figuring if he wants to go on the rock he can, but has remained on the substrate nest to the rock.  >>I think you want it up there more than it wants to be up there. If it's white, then you must address your lighting in a serious manner, as this is an anemone with no zooxanthellae - quite unhealthy.  >I've left him there for about 5 days now and he hasn't moved. Today he's just kind of tipped on his side. I'm trying to just let him be. Is this normal behavior?  >>It is for an unhappy anemone.  >He hasn't filled up quite as big as when I first got him, but still looks o.k. Should I just let him be or try to set him on the rock again? When he does fall on his side, should I try to put him upright or leave alone? I also have a LTA that has been in there for about 2-1/2 months and is doing awesome. The tank is a 50 gallon with a 125 gph canister filter, a Prizm protein skimmer and an Eco-Aqualizer.  >>You have way to much anemone for that tank. I strongly recommend you return the sebae and just keep the LTA. You may be witnessing chemical warfare (allelopathy).  >For lighting I have JBJ Formosa lights. Other occupants are 2 Nemos, 1 yellow tail damsel, 1 six line wrasse, 1 yellow tang, 2- cleaner shrimp, 1 emerald brittle star,  >>Oh lord, not a green brittle star.. Please look up Ophiarachna incrassata. I will now recommend that you research first and buy later.  >3- emerald crabs, two orange foot snails, approx 15-20 hermit crabs and snails,  >>Whoa! How many hermit crabs?? 1/10gallons is the stocking density you want here.  >1- sea cucumber. Everyone is doing great, just not sure on the behavior of this sebae.  >>Clearly it's unhappy my friend.  >pH is 8.2, Ammonia-0, Nitrite-0, Nitrate 10ppm, specific gravity, 1.022. Thank you in advance for any insight. Karl B.  >>Karl, you should know that the yellow tang, if doing well, will soon outgrow that tiny little 50 gallon tank (yes, everything is relative, and relative to a tang 50 gallons is a squish box). I am not familiar with Formosa lighting, what's important is Kelvin rating when keeping photosynthetic specimens. Again, I strongly recommend returning the sebae, the LTA alone could possibly grow too large for this tank. Of course, this is assuming it could survive the dozens of years (possibly hundreds) that encompass natural lifespan. Marina
You can Lead a Sebae to Live Rock, but you Can't Make it Stick! Part Deux 
>Thank you for the advice!  >>You're very welcome, Karl.  >I will be contacting the LFS tomorrow to arrange return of the brittle star. I'm new to this hobby, and was told they are good sand sifters - no mention of it killing my fish!  >>This is not at all unusual, my friend. Lots of misinformation to be sifted through.  >I did do some reading as you suggested. I will also see if they will take the sebae back.  >>Great, good luck, and happy reading!  >Thanks again for the advice- Karl  >>You're quite welcome. Marina

Anemone restless !! Good afternoon sunny greetings from South Africa. <Greetings from smoggy Los Angeles! Graham at your service.> Please could you assist me, after 4 years of keeping marines I have finally tried to keep anemones and purchased a long tentacle over a week ago. The problem I'm having is he just doesn't want to stick to anything I originally placed him in between rocks close to the light but he didn't want to stick to anything and started floating around the bottom of my tank . Reading all your advice you recommend the best thing to do is just to leave them and they will eventually find the best place for them which I have done but 10 days have already passed .  This guy doesn't even want to stick to the sand and move around he basically just tumbles around my tank!!! <That's an obvious sign that something is wrong with your overall aquarium. This behaviour pretty much means there is something very bad/wrong with your aquarium. This may also be a response to inappropriate substrate or tankmates. I would look into the pH, temperature and Salinity of the aquarium. These are three very important key factors to look at when purchasing an anemone. If these levels are where they should be, I would assume the animal was either not healthy to begin with and/or inappropriate substrate/tankmates.> I have a 300 liter tank with 2 x 150w MH & 2 X Actinic , Calcium is perfect , nitrates 0 , water flow is good , and I do weekly water changes , and do monthly carbon changes . What can I do?? <Email me back with more information. I need to know the rest of your water quality (especially pH, Salinity and Temperature), Substrate, and all tankmates. Without those I cannot give you an accurate response.> Werner Schoeman <Take Care, Graham.>

Moving an anemone 3/18/04 I have a Rose Anemone that has attached his foot to the bottom of a small cluster of zoo's and I can't get him off of them. Any suggestions? I don't want the zoo's to die due to lack of light and nutrients.... Thanks! <there is also some concern here for the anemone getting burned/wounded by the zoanthids. To move the anemone, you can simply peel it away from the substrate with a dull edge like a fingernail, plastic spoon or credit card. If that does not appeal to you, you may try blocking the light over the anemone in a small footprint shadow to make the anemone move off and away to a better spot. Best regards, Anthony>

BTA is a mover Hello Bob: <Hello. Graham at your service.> Do you have any tips for finding the right spot for bubble tip anemone? In what kind of spots will they stay put? <The E. quadricolor is an anemone which is naturally found in the rockwork. Its base (foot) will be wedged in-betweens rocks with only its oral disc exposed. I would recommend simply letting the anemone roam around the tank until it (eventually) finds a spot which it can settle into. (Unfortunately) anemones do not have any central brain, meaning they cannot adapt to any new environment -- their captive environment must duplicate that of which it would receive in nature. Sometimes anemones will simply move because of a little too much current to the right, or it could be something huge such as poor water quality or lack of lighting. Overall its best to let the anemone roam around until it finds a spot.> I got one a few days ago and it has moved every night for the past few nights.  My water quality is great. <What lighting and current do you have?> While it was on the glass, I took a pic of it and my new Maroon Clownfish (attached). <Very nice picture! They both look very healthy!> Thanks,
<Take Care, Graham.>

A bit of advice for an LTA Good evening! <Hello> First of all, I have to say that I love your site.  It has helped me a great deal in creating my saltwater aquarium.   <Thanks!> I have a few quick questions about the newest member of my tank.  My tank is 55 gal, it has a protein skimmer, a power head, 25 lbs of live rock (I know I need more, but sheesh that stuff is expensive), sand substrate about 3 inches deep, 2 "false" percula clowns, yellow tale blue damsel, Hawaiian tang, 5 red-tip crabs, 15 turbo snails, and of course my new pride and joy a purplish LTA.  I placed the LTA in my tank 3 days ago and my clowns are slowly starting to take to their host; however, the LTA doesn't seem to be acclimating to his environment very well.  He is still "wandering" around the tank and has not 'planted' a firm spot. The LTA at least accepts food, which I hear is quite the task for most anemone enthusiasts, but mine has a great appetite, grabbing the food with his tentacles and working it into his mouth (I know you know how it works, I just fine it so fascinating!).  LTA's mouth is great, no cuts or swelling and it never "gapes" open unless he is opening it to eat or excrete something.  The body seems to be a "textbook" orangey-red color with no wounds.  So my question is, why hasn't he found a "spot" yet?  Am I just being impatient?  Please any comments or suggestions you might have would be much appreciated. <I honestly wish I can give you an exact answer to why you're anemone is moving. Unfortunately, I can only guess why. First of all, Anemones will move to find a perfect environment to live in. Anemones have no central brain so they cannot adapt to an environment which is "almost" perfect. The anemone could be moving for simple reason, such as a bit too much current coming from the right, or possibly from larger reasons such as lack of lighting or improper water conditions. Overall, it's normal to have an anemone moving around in its new environment. However, if your tank does not meet the standards set by the anemone, the anemone continue moving around until it dies. In my opinion, intense lighting is one of the keys to success. Why do I say that? Because from my experience, Anemones have done the best under more intense lighting (such as Metal Halides), however, I have had several species of anemone do perfectly fine under power compacts. There's really not much you can do for the anemone except to continue feeding it. Eventually (hopefully), it should find a good area and settle down. Hope this helps. If you have any further questions, please feel free to email us back anytime. Graham Stephan.> Thanks, Jess

Ritteri anemone I have a Ritteri anemone that travels all around a 30 gal reef with xenia and some soft corals. what can I do to give it a reason to stop traveling or is there a better Percula host you can recommend. <Anemones will move for many reasons- sometimes there may be too much current, not enough lighting, poor water conditions, not enough food, etc. Unfortunately, Anemones cannot simply tell us what's bothering them, therefore we must try to figure it out ourselves. Your Ritteri anemone is trying to move into an area which best suits its needs. Unfortunately, it may never find this perfect environment and will continue moving until it dies. Ritteri anemones are quite difficult to care for and require excellent water conditions, intense lighting (Preferably metal halides), and an overall environment which mimics the area which it came from. There's really not much advice I can give you in this kind of situation. There's no advice I can tell you to do which would make the anemone stop moving, or to find a permanent location. Feeding the anemone foods such as shrimp, diced squid, silversides, or krill won't hurt and may actually benefit the anemone. Possibly upgrading your lighting (if you don't have intense lighting already) may increase chances in the zooxanthellae reproduction in the anemone. Other than that there's not much I can say. Telling us more about your system would help out a lot, especially in what lighting you have, how old the tank is, what filtration you use, what the water quality is, how long you have had the anemone, etc. It's impossible to say otherwise. Good luck and take care, Graham Stephan.>

Long Tentacle Anemone 11/26/03 Hey guys I have a question for you regarding my LTA.  I have a well established 100gal tank, all water parameters are normal.  I purchased (3 weeks ago) a very healthily and large LTA.   I bought this LTA in hopes my Clarkii would host, within minutes of introducing this anemone he did host...literally minutes.  Here is my issue, the LTA refuses to stick to anything.   <sometimes unknown reasons for this... other times for lack of adequate or correct water flow> I have tried placing it in a corner with rocks holding it in place, <yikes> tried to place it in a crevice in a rock to stay in place and nothing works.  For the past 3 weeks it has been drifting around the tank.  I have a Bubble Tip anemone on another part of the tank that is doing very well.   <aha... here may be part of the problem. Please do mix anemones. Motile cnidarians need species tanks. Your LTA may be sensing the chemical aggression in the water from this established anemone and is simply picking up the chemical cue and trying to evade the local> The LTA I purchased has a perfect "foot" and is extremely healthy.  The disk is over 5 inches in diameter when fully open.  It has never closed up, shriveled or anything.  It just drifts around, fully open with the Clarkii always swimming in it and into it.  I think the Clarkii may be too active and may be the reason it is not staying in place, the Clarkii just moves it around. <I highly doubt that the clownfish are the matter> Is this normal, will it eventually find a spot in the tank and bury its "foot".  I have sand as substrate which I understand is what they need to thrive.  I have live rock as well.   Am I doing something wrong, is there a technique I am missing? <I truthfully would never recommend mixing anemone species in the same tank under any circumstance. I'd recommend removing the LTA or the Rose> Please help place this wandering anemone. Thanks. <best of luck. Anthony>

Be Nice To Your Anemones! I have recently purchased a bubble-tip anemone yesterday (November 20,2003).  I floated it and dumped the bag with the anemone free swimming in the water. It quickly attached itself to the bottom of a rock that receives little or no sunlight, and it stayed there. It hasn't moved I'm starting to get worried. Should I leave it alone or is there a way for him to loosen up so I can replace him? <In my opinion, under no circumstances should you attempt to relocate the animal at this point. Prying the animal off of its substrate could cause more harm than good. Give it some time. If it's healthy, chances are that it will relocate itself into an area of the tank that provides it with the conditions that it desires...> I also have another question. I have a maroon clown and 2 large percula clowns, and they haven't noticed it yet. Will they go in it or what is the average time before they find it and start playing in it? Thanks for having an awesome site and answering my questions. Once again, Thanks, Chris <Well Chris- many hobbyists are frustrated when their clowns don't establish a relationship with their anemones. The fact of the matter is, these guys will establish this relationship if an when they feel like it! Frustrating, huh? Many clowns now available to the hobbyists are captive bred, and have never seen an anemone. They may have some "instinctive" desire to go to an anemone, but the bottom line is that they will do this if-and only if- they are ready, willing, and able. Enjoy both the fishes and the anemones, and hope for the best...Nature (and the fish) are in charge here! Goof luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Moving anemones 10/21/03 Hello All, hope this finds you well. <and to you in kind> I have a 180 gallon reef tank.  I originally put in a small green BTA (about1.5 inches across) - it is now two, each about 4 inches.  I also had a Rose BTA that was about 4 inches initially, and in now three: 8 inches, 6 inches x 2.  I was planning on selling back two of the Rose BTA?s  to the LFS, since they run $100-200 at least.  However, the difficulty comes in trying to remove them from the live rock.  Any ideas would be appreciated.  All else doing well. Dr. Mac <one of the easiest ways to move an anemone is to shade it. Place loose rubble near to the anemone... then place a dark shield in a small footprint over the anemone to block light... forcing it to crawl to a side where there is loose and easy to remove substrate. Best regards, Anthony>

Follow up on BTA vs. Coral Hey gang, <howdy!> Just a couple of follow up question for you. I am aware that you (and many of my corals) are not big fans of Anemone's in a reef tank. <heehee... quite true <G>> I have decided to give it one more shot since I really dig my BTA. My question is are there any coral types that may not be in danger from my BTA and vice versa? <in a nutshell...no. But you are welcome to mix various non-cnidarian reef inverts with your BTW... clams, tunicates, sponges, sea cucumbers, starfish, shrimp... some crabs, some macroalgae and plants, etc> I have removed all corals from reach but it is an awful lot of space. I will remove it from the tank if necessary (the Maroon Clowns will hate that), but I would really like to avoid that. <sometimes they fare well in reef tanks for even more than a few years... most often, you can expect a disaster in the tank within 3 years IMO. Pull the anemones if you don't like the odds ;) > Secondly, I recently lost an Achilles Tang to Ich. Don't know where it came from since the Tang had been there for several months, <it carried it suppressed... they are Ich magnets and truly poor aquarium specimens requiring a superb diet, very mature tank of algae (preferably with vegetable filter refugium) and most importantly... amazing water flow (20X or greater in the tank) which disturbs some coral. A species for advanced aquarists only IMO> No newcomers recently, and I have a Purple and a Yellow tang(s) that are perfectly healthy. <a source of stress to the Achilles too if only by competition for food> I am going to add a UV sterilizer to the system but what is the likelihood that it will get the other fish in the future? <I strongly feel the UV is a waste of money for this purpose (on any display with sand/gravel in it... "non-bare-bottomed")... do read my many comment s on the subject in the archives by going to the main page, http://www.wetwebmedia.com and doing a google search of the site (keyword field at the bottom) for "UV, Anthony" and read through the archives> I am pretty bummed about the Achilles but since they are pretty hard to keep and I failed miserably, I will not be getting another any time soon. By the way thanks again for all your help. You guys (and gals) ROCK ! <very welcome my friend. Do consider Ozone and a Redox controller instead if you must for disease control and many other benefits over UV. Anthony>

Bubble Tip Anemone with sunglasses - 8/10/03 Hi, <howdy> I have just discovered your website and want to  tell you how great it is. <thanks kindly... do tell friends :) > My system is small (30 g) with a 30g sump and refugium.  It is plumbed and ready for testing and  if all goes well live rock and curing.  Protein skimming and 250 pendant metal halide (10000k) lighting.   <good heavens! That's a lot of light...> My biotope will be Indo-Pacific relatively shallow water species. <fair enough then... truly an exception> My question concerns timing of anemone and clownfish occupation of the tank.  Because of the territorial nature of clownfish and the migratory nature of the BTA, it concerned me if I should inhabit these critters at the beginning or later.  Other critters will be a few SPS, clam,  possible goby, and wrasse. <The tank is too small for any anemone (or other motile cnidarians) with sessile species. It is a recipe for disaster if/when they move in the future (no doubt, while you are on vacation). Anemones are generally unnatural tankmates in reef aquaria at any rate and do best even when in species tanks only. Skip the anemone... save its life (and perhaps a tank full of livestock too) and just enjoy the shallow SPS corals and clams in this tank properly> Thanks for your help in advance Sam <best of luck! Anthony>

Anemones capability, Air pumps and Calcium Reactors 08/09/03 <Hi Stu, PF here with you> G'day Guys, A few dilemmas that I need clarification on if you wouldn't mind helping. <Well, that's what we're here for.> I have an ocellaris anemone and a pair of clowns that have been in my tank for a few years now. The anemone itself is about the size of a dinner plate. <Do you mean a Heteractis magnifica? There's no such thing as an Ocellaris anemone, at least that I've never heard of. Glad to hear it's living and thriving, it's a rare and happy thing to hear.> I was wondering whether or not the anemone and the clowns would get along with another anemone of the same species but double the size and that has a pair of ocellaris clowns with it. Would the anemones get along together, and how about the clowns? If the two anemones touch is that a no, no? <I'd say maybe to the anemones, but you'd need a very big tank to do it. As for the clowns, no, they'd probably fight. Remember, they're in the same family as damsel fish and are territorial. As for the anemones touching, I'd say no.> Are there circulation pumps on the market that are for sale that do not allow wandering anemones, sea slugs and Nudibranchs from getting sucked up and therefore creating disasters within the tank? <Well, you could hook a SCWD to the return pump from a sump (or do it as a closed loop). Tunze stream pumps are also supposed to be safer for such animals as well.> Lastly I have purchased a Korallin calcium reactor c-1501 and the co2 and regulator to go with it. The instructions that go with for the calcium reactor are only 1 page long, and from these instructions they seem to assume you have previously had experience in the setting up process beforehand. Are there any photos you have of how the connections works or clear instructions for a guy that has no experience in this area before. From my understanding the 4 outlets work like this. The Co2 outlet goes to the co2 bottle, the top air outlet is not connected and is just to let out any excess air in the chamber. The connection on the outside of the reactor with the valve I assume is the effluent to put water back into the sump, but needs to be above the water line to see the drops. Then  I assume the centre connection is for water to be collected from the tank and into the chamber, I assume this is sucked up by the pump on the top from the sump, but this is when things went wrong, no water seems to be sucking up? It says to somehow get the tank water into the chamber which I did to where I thought it looked full and also removing the air through the top outlet. When I turned the pump on and the C02 gas, you could here the pump working but no water being sucked up, the C02 was bubbling and occasionally a few drops would be sent through the so call effluent connection. About 10 minutes the fish in the tank are gasping for air and it looked like co2 was getting into the tank?? Any ideas? On the pictures it shows a blue attachment which I never recd, do you know what this is as it looks like a 2 inch tube connected by some tubing and clamped on the c02 outlet? <Well Stu, in all honesty this would be a lot easier if I was there to eyeball it. I recommend that you contact the manufacturer and/or a member of a local aquarium club who has setup a calcium reactor before. Sorry I can't do more than that, but I would have to look at it to do more. Good luck, PF> Thanks Stu

BTA vs. Coral 8/7/03 Hello crew, <Howdy> Thanks for all the helpful info on your site ! I have a schweeet Bubble-Tip Anemone in my 110 gal reef tank hosting a pair of maroon clowns. It tends to move in and out of a small cave in the rock near the bottom. <yes... quite precarious/dangerous thing about anemones if mixed with other cnidarians (never recommended IMO... species tanks only)> It also has a tendency to stretch out its tentacles to the point where it looks more like a Long Tentacle Anemone. I originally placed corals a good distance away to give it some room. <Ughhh... its just a matter of time. They will usually wait until you go on vacation> However, it has gotten to the point where it has grown and it stretches further and further so it can touch an open brain coral that is (was) a good 6-8 inches away. I have noticed occasional discoloring on the coral. Is this a result of the anemone touching it ? <quite likely... and it doesn't necessarily mean the anemone is winning... both likely are suffering from the aggression/allelopathy> Is it safe for any corals to be near it such as blasto's or frogspawn? <unrelated corals should not be placed near each other> Can I place corals near it without endangering either ? <ahhh... no> Also, on a different topic, what is the best sand sifter to eat the brown algae in the substrate ? <many possibilities... but I really like the Bullet/Dragon gobies> Thanks in advance ! <best regards, Anthony>

Mixing Anemones with Coral - a recipe for disaster 8/4/03 I recently purchased a Maroon clown mated with a green bubble tip anemone, it looked very good in the store tank, so I bought it. <they are hardy and well-suited> I asked some questions about the pair and the employee and I determined that it would be OK in my tank. <OK> Well I placed the pair in my tank after a slow acclimation and waited to see if the anemone would stay put or move to a different spot, well he did move and all seemed well except that he will not open and he looks very small and there is white stringy things coming out of the center. <aieee! Mesenterial filaments - defensive aspects. A sign of it being attacked or feeling threatened. And yes... they all move. That would be the main reason for never mixing them with sessile cnidarians like corals> All of the coral in my tank is doing well. <mixing sessile stinging animals (corals) with motile cnidarians like anemones is unnatural in most cases and a recipe for disaster in most tanks in the long run. Keep anemones in a species tank only> The salinity in the tank is 1.023 and the temp is a bit high at 81. This is all of the info that I can remember do to the fact I don't have my log book at work. Can you help me or I should say my Anemone? <do separate them from corals> Is there a book that you would recommend that has good info on the green bubble tip? Thank you, Mark White <no definitive works on such cnidarians for aquarists... but a lot of good/short passages in various works from the like of Wilkerson, Sprung, etc. Daphne Fautin has also done tremendous work in this field. Please browse our WetWebMedia archives and FAQs for much info on this anemone including tips on breeding them. The creature is Entacmaea quadricolor... also known as a BTA. Try various keyword searches with these names. Best regards, Anthony>

BTA split, now is one stuck? 8/1/03 Hi there, <howdy, partner> My BTA recently split into three (split into 2 overnight then over the course of a week, one of them split again). It was about 4-5" wide when fully open before the split and now the anemones are about 1-2" wide. <outstanding... please do take and share pics of it> My problem now is I think one of the anemones is stuck inside my decorative coral rock. I'm not sure exactly what it's called, but the coral rock is kinda shell-like and hollow and has large holes. The anemone has its foot completely inside one of the holes and hasn't moved since the split. <no worries... give it time... and feed it duly in the meantime. Have patience> Overall, the anemone seems to be doing well, and I know that a happy anemone stays put. Can an anemone ever get stuck in a hole like this, not be able to get out, and be in distress? <no> It always displays bubbles (as opposed to the other two which never do) and has been eating fairly well. I'm just a little concerned b/c the hole opening is not that big and could be constricting if the anemone grows much more. Any advice? <no worries my friend... and it can be coaxed out with manipulation of light (half shading) if necessary> Thanks!  ---Stella <best regards, Anthony>

Moving a carpet anemone Hey guys, I was wondering if you could tell me if it would be alright to place my carpet anemone in a cradle of live rock.  I have him placed closer to the light and it looks better to have him in the rock.  I was just wondering if it might be bad for him to stay in/on the rocks instead of the crushed coral. <Carpets are usually found attached to rocks. It's fine to move the anemone if the spot will have better lighting and/or water flow, but if the anemone is not happy where it is, it will move until it's happy. Careful with it though, those nematocysts pack a serious punch (read: wear gloves!) -Kevin>

Moving An Anemone The Safe Way Howdy Wet Ones!  Hope you all are doing well! <Certainly am! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!> I have a question about moving an anemone.  It lives in my 75G tank, but I have set up my 90G tank (for few months now) and am looking to move him over, he being a pretty large BTA, about 7 or 8 inches in diameter when opened up.  Naturally, he is attached to a large piece of live rock, and during the day extends upwards towards the light.  My question is this: how do I get him off the rock?  I read today in an FAQ that you can chip the rock, then I could move it over.  I don't want to move the piece of live rock he is on, it is way to big.  Can you take the anemone out of water for a minute or so, that would be the only feasible way of breaking the portion of rock off that he is on. <I'd do that> My other idea would be to put him near one of the powerheads blowing towards his base, maybe it will irritate him and he will let go on his own.  Could that damage him if it is too strong though? <Well- maybe not damage- but it could cause undue stress that can lead to problems. Just do the "chip trick"!> Any other ideas would be appreciated.  As always, thank you. Paul <Well, Paul- I'd do the least aggressive (or the least potentially damaging) maneuver...Proceed with caution! Scott F>

Wandering Anemone Hello, I have a 90 gallon reef tank which has been set up for five years. I have had a long tentacled anemone for several years and it always did great/looked great. Then, one day I came home and it had moved very close to a leather I have, it was practically draped over it. For several days the leather didn't open, so I became nervous and tried to move the anemone to a different spot. This was probably six months ago. Ever since then, it seems to just get smaller and smaller, the color doesn't look good, and it always wanders around the tank, but ends up on the back side of the live rock, near the bottom. <Not good...Anemones will generally wander around an aquarium when they are not happy where they are- or with conditions in the tank. It's important to do a thorough analysis on your system...See where your system may have shortcomings, such as lighting, filtration, or husbandry issues. Research the needs of the LTA, and what it needs to be happy...I think that you'll probably end up having to correct something in the system. Lighting is a huge issue with anemones- and one that is often overlooked, as is water circulation. Feeding is still another issue to be visited...The answers are out there. You can use the vast array of resources that we have on the WWM site to start your research!> I am wondering if this creature is doomed or is there something I can do to help it recover? I haven't been feeding it anything directly (like small pieces of formula one or phytoplankton), should I start doing this a few times a week? <I would feed the anemone regularly...Do try the Formula One to start> Thanks for your help in advance. <Good luck to you in your search for answers! Regards, Scott F>

Anemones on the move Hi I have a green anemone that was just the darkest green for months, than one day it just moved and hid under the rocks for days, I felt I should move it ,so a few days ago I did just that ,and the color is all but gone and is not returning, it seems like it is always on the move now any suggestions as to what may be happening? Thanks Joni <Hi Joni, it sounds like your Anemone took off to search for greener pastures, got confused, hid under a rock and stressed himself out.  Ok seriously, they will move if they feel something is lacking in their current position, mainly lighting and water flow.  If he took off to find a better spot, got confused and ended up hanging out under a rock, this could be very stressful on the Anemone.  Without the tank setup information and water parameters it is hard to say for sure.  I would read up on Anemone care and make sure all of the Anemones requirements are being met.  This Anemone most likely can recover but will need to be fed due to a loss of zooxanthellae.  The link below is a good place to start.  Best Regards, Gage http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>

Water change and anemone Hello crew- Hope all is well. I need your advice again. <It is, and that's what we're here for. PF in tonight.> I have a Condy anemone that has found a new favorite spot right at the top of the waterline below the lights. <That tells me your lighting is a little low for it's needs. Have you considered upgrading it?> It is time for a water change and I have been waiting for the little fella to move so I can do this. Now I have been waiting a over a week. Can I just do a water change and let the Condy hang on the side till I fill back up or will this cause some sort of damage? <I would think if would be ok, if you lower the water level very slowly, and I mean very slowly. Like well over an hour so it can move if it wants to.> I would be changing about 40gal, so it would probably hang there for half an hour. <Have you thought about doing several smaller water changes over the course of a week? Say 10g's four times?? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again and have a great weekend Dennis <Well, hopefully I've given you some advise you can use. Do look into the lighting on your tank. Have a good weekend, PF.>

Anemone On The Run? The Ritteri I have had for seven months has suddenly gone wandering.  It isn't much of a problem because it's isolated (so far anyway!) by rock work on one side of my 120 gal tank.  It has grown noticeably since I put it in the tank (from about 3 inches to about 4 inches across the oral disc), it is still very sticky, eats well, and the water conditions have been very stable (nitrates increased to 10 ppm for a couple weeks while my wife was feeding).  It has plenty of light and current, plus two percula clowns.  Everything else in the tank - fish, sps, lps, clams, and shrimp I have read a lot about anemones being slow to exhibit visible signs of stress and can often enter fatal spirals before we notice something is wrong.  Is this sudden wandering a sign of trouble?  Is there anything you can do to reduce it's wandering? <The sudden wandering is generally a sign that the animal is looking for different (better?) conditions than it had in its previous position. Could be due to water flow changing, light intensity varying (are those bulbs due for replacement? Or- did you change to a different spectrum/wattage of bulb?). Ask yourself what changes in the environment (if any) could have precipitated the anemone's "walkabout"> I was wondering if I should feed it more than a couple small krill or silversides a week but I worried about it getting too big too fast.  Like I said, the wandering hasn't been a problem in terms of other corals or powerheads, I was just hoping to get an idea of potential problems and try to head them off before the get too serious. <Good thinking! I would look at any potential environmental changes (good or bad) as a possibility. Also, I'd consider things that aren't so obvious, like possible harassment by other animals, etc. As far as the feeding is concerned, I think a couple of feedings a week with the foods that you mentioned should be fine> Bob <Well, Bob- keep up the good work with this animal...Monitor it's "relocation", and adjust any environmental parameters which require "tweaking". Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Roaming anemone Hello, I recently purchased a long tentacle anemone. I know that they will move around until they find a perfect spot in the tank.  My anemone keeps flipping upside down.  I will place it back upright, but before you know it the anemone has managed to flip upside down again.  Is this normal for the anemone to do this, if not what can I do to help.  <He is likely just trying to detach to let the current take him to a different part of the tank.  Also make sure your lighting is adequate. Cody>

Condylactis and other cnidarians >Hey guys, >>And gals.  Marina here. >Have a quick question, In my tank right now I have a Condylactis Anemone, Xenia, Long spine Urchin, Sand Sifting Star, and a few fish. I am planning on getting a pair of True Percula Clowns for my tank. I will be getting rid of everything else before I do so. With the Clown fish I plan on getting a host anemone. I know you guys do not recommend anemones but I would really like to get one. >>The issue here is the ability of the aquarist. >Mine I have now has done great probably doubled in size and I keep it very healthy. >>Condylactis are considered almost bullet-proof (no one seems to have trouble growing Aiptasia, so we can include those pests as well).  They are a far cry from something as demanding as, say, a sebae. From what I have read in your FAQ's and other info on your site is that the Sebae Anemone would be the best bet for the True Perculas. Would you agree with that? >>Sebae, or possible a Bubble Tip Anemone, which tend to be more forgiving in general. >Okay now my real question, I need to get my Condylactis Anemone out but it has gotten itself deep down in a crack of my live rock. The only way I could think of to get it to move was to cover the light where it shines on it and hopefully it would move on its own. I do not want to risk tearing its foot by trying to pull it out of the crack. What would be the best way to get it to move to a surface where it can be easily removed? >>Unfortunately, once an anemone finds itself a place it likes, you're going to be hard pressed to get it to remove itself.  You *could* try this method, I can't tell you whether or not this will definitely work.  What about just removing the rock it's anchored itself to? >Also with the host anemone that I get will it be a threat to the Xenia? >>Yes.  Mixing cnidaria, especially motile versus sessile really is not a good idea.  Actually, I'm going to leave no doubt in your (or anyone else's who might read this) and say that it's a terrible idea, especially in the confines of a tank. >I spend a lot of time on your website and can never really find an exact answer. I hope I am not bothering you with my questions. >>ABSOLUTELY NOT!  You are not bothering us, you're helping us add to the vast amount of information that is out there, but that hasn't answered your question.  Don't think for a minute that you're the only one out there who's had the same questions! >Thanks, Chris Hepburn >>You're welcome, and here are some links again--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidaria.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm >>Marina

Live Rock Placement and Lighting for anemone >I just got in another shipment of live rock and I want to design my 65g tank specifically for a future BTA anemone.  I have 1 175w MH in the center of my tank as well as 2 96w compact fluorescents. Do I need to build the rock up as high as possible for the anemone or can it be a certain distance under the water under the MH?  If necessary I could build the rock almost to the surface.  Thanks! >>Wow!  Sounds like you're going to be ready for anything.  Look here for some general lighting information on anemones--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm Since you can, why not build something of a miniature mountain range that will allow the anemone to find its own place of preference (which it'll do anyway)?  Hope this helps!  Good luck, Marina.

Moving anemones up to a larger tank Ok after learning that my tank is WAY to small for my inhabitants, I am upgrading to a larger tank, however due to expenses its about 2 weeks away from purchase, I am going to try and speed up the process by attaching my current tank to the new one after a couple weeks so that the water params are the same when I move everything over... what is the best/least expensive way to do this since it wont be a permanent thing? and what are the major signs of health decline in LT anemone's, feather stars, and Nudibranchs? I bought all before I came here, surprisingly enough all have been alive for about 2 1/2 months with no sign of decline.. but am I missing the signs? all help is appreciated thanks <The new tank will have to cycle. This will take from 4-6 weeks. If you have live rock in the current tank, you can use that to help the process along. After the new tank cycles, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, then balance the other water parameters, specific gravity, pH, Alkalinity, Calcium, temperature and reacclimated the livestock to the new (cycled) tank. Hope this helps. For info on the anemones start here and follow the blue links at the top of the page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm. Don>

Moving LTA  2/19/03 I have a long tentacle that I got about a week ago. the prob I have with him is that he is floating all over the tank and wont attach to anything. He is fully opened while floating. I have tried setting him in different spots but he wont stay put. He was fine at the pet store. What could be the problem. He is eating healthy and looks in excellent shape. Any suggestions?<First thing what is the size of your tank?  Lighting consists of what...?  I believe he is looking for a place with just the right amount of light.  Problem is that he hasn't found it yet!  It is normal to have them "crawl" around, but to float for a week.  Have you checked his/her "foot"?  Maybe the anemone's foot was injured in transport?  Just some ideas!  Need more info on your setup!  Get back with me please.  Phil

- Tank Raised Anemone Placement - Hello at Wet Web, <Hello, JasonC here...> I have a tank-raised Bubble Tip anemone coming in on Saturday, along with an immature mated pair of Yellow-Striped Maroon Clowns, and I've read that placement for the Bubble Tip is best accomplished by putting it either on or under a piece of live rock with a good crevice in it. <That helps, but doesn't always work.> I know they prefer to attach to rock, so in an effort to place him the best I can when he arrives, I'd appreciate your ideas on doing just that. <I think your stated plan is probably your best shot. Perhaps turn down the flow in the tank, remove a power head or two until it is attached - that way it isn't blown about the tank.> I know he may wander a bit until he's happy--just thought you may have some helpful ideas. Also, knowing how the clowns will protect their anemone, any ideas on feeding the anemone without being attacked by the Maroons? <With a turkey baster or large syringe.> Many thanks, Peggy <Cheers, J -- >

Atlantic anemone Hi, <Howdy> I read interest you FAQ's regarding the Atlantic anemone.  I have a green one that I purchased as a charity case over a year ago and it has since grown to approx 10" diameter when extended with a 3" diameter disc in my 75 gal tank.  My tomato clown took up residence with it several months ago and though it seems to be a one sided relationship on the clowns side the anemone has thrived.  My question is - I have been told that the anemone will 'sting'  and consequently kill corals and other anemones. <Mmm, well this is possible... but not necessarily so. They do live amongst such animals in the wild...>   I have added several small corals to my tank and they are doing well where currently placed, but if Mr. Anemone decides to move again it will have contact with them. It has stayed in the same place for a few months so I am hoping it is happy there.  Am I waiting for disaster to happen? <Can't say. Some specimens do go "wandering", generally following a deficit in their current situation, very commonly low light intensity, phase shift of "old" lamps. If they're all getting along chemically for now, I wouldn't be overly concerned. You are likely to see something happening if it does decide to move before real trouble. Bob Fenner> Thanks, Nancy D

Nomadic Anemone Hi... <Scott F. here with you today> I have a recently-purchased bulb anemone which, until now, has resided quite happily (for a few weeks) in a particular bottom corner of the tank.  Last night he went for a walk, and is now perched on a pink polyp rock (or at least he was when I left for work - he may have moved again by now).  Should I "pry" him off and return him, or find a new spot for him? <Do not attempt to remove it by any means, okay? You may injure it severely! Even though it may not be a desirable location for you, apparently the location is desirous for the anemone( could be current, light, etc.)!> I don't want him damaging the polyps, and I'm wondering, if he stops for a break, how long I should wait before forcibly moving him? Arthur <A good question- and I understand your concern, but I'd really just wait it out and hope that it settles in for a long stay. take care! Scott F.>

lt anemone Hey guys, <<Hey Derrick,>> I have a question regarding my LT anemone. I have had it for about 6 months and it has been doing very well, in fact it has almost doubled in size. The problem that I am having started a few weeks ago, when it started moving to the back of the aquarium in a rather shady spot. I left it alone for awhile until I started noticing it becoming smaller and losing its color in some of its tentacles. I moved it back to the original spot it had been for 5 months, it started getting its color back in the tentacles that were turning white. Next thing I know it has now moved again to the back of the tank. What can I do?? I have read so many times that you should just let them move to wherever they want, but I have a feeling that it will just decline in health if it stays back there. 90 gallon 6x65 PC lighting 4 Clarkii clowns 80 pounds of live rock all parameters are good! Thanks for the help Derrick <<I would let it go where it feels right. They sometimes move to an area of less light to split. One thing you don't mention is feeding and you should be feeding your anemone every other day 1/4" size pieces of raw shrimp, scallop, mussel, clam, silversides, etc. If you haven't been feeding him we found your problem. They contain photosynthetic algae and require feeding as well or they slowly waste away and die. BTA's are slightly less light hungry than some of the others. Hope this gets him perked up, Craig>> 

Anemones Hi, How does one acclimate and "install" an anemone? Do they sting? <They are capable>Do they grab onto the plastic bag so that you have to pick them up?<sometimes> Can they be in contact with air during the transfer or will they die like a sponge? <I would make the time in contact with the air as short as possible> I'm not getting any so don't worry :-D. I was just wondering how it's done.  Wes <Anthony has a good article about "Acclimating Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting"  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm There are also some good FAQs on the topic here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimfaq2.htm Hope this answers your question - Gage>

Anemone / Coral compatibility Hi Bob (or WetWebMedia crew), <cheers> I currently have a green carpet anemone in a 30-gallon tank.  <holy cow... a tight fit even in the short run. These anemones get a couple of feet across in diameter and are extremely aggressive. They need quite a lot of light (high intensity fluorescents or metal halide) and almost daily feedings to survive. Else they will hang in for a year or two before finally starving to death> Is it possible to add hardy soft corals to this setup (leather, colt, mushrooms, button Polyps, star polyps)?  <under no circumstance would this work in a 30 gallon. Quite frankly, anemones and corals are almost never to be recommended together... it is an unnatural mix in most cases and the ensuing chemical aggression in the water will cause great duress to all.> I've read that many of these animals will sting each other.  <absolutely... they are best kept in a species tank> Is there a way to tell if corals are compatible with each other?  <its best to group corals in tanks by family or group. Like... soft corals only... LPS only or SPS only. Mixing groups can be quite challenging... especially in a small tank like a 30 gallon. Be sure that you have a skimmer that produces dark skimmate every single day and that you change your carbon weekly> I've read that you should keep corals 8-12 inches apart,  <pretty good> yet a lot of pictures and pet stores have corals practically sitting on top of each other.  <most pet stores also have their tanks overstocked but do daily water changes to compensate... catch the drift :) > Is it safe to place members of the same genus closer together? <in some cases yes> Another question... should I avoid star polyps? I've read they can overtake an aquarium over time? Is there a species that won't spread so rapidly? <they can grow fast... but many species do. Almost any coral you pick will out grow a 30 gall in a year. Simply learn some good coral propagation techniques to control growth> One last unrelated question... is Hawaii the best state to live in to go scuba diving on a regular basis?  <beautiful... but the water is cool and coral development is not a good for this northernmost coral reef. Much good diving in the Caribbean from Florida. Better diving by simply traveling from your home randomly out to the Red Sea and Indonesia.> I'm currently land locked in Illinois, but would like to move to a place where I can scuba dive easily. The only other place I know of in the US with a coral reef is the Florida Keys, but I don't really want to live in Miami. <all depends on the kind of diving you seek. Sponges and gorgs in Atlantic, many stonies in Hawaii but few soft... a plethora beyond that. What of living in Puerto Rico?> Thanks for your time and rapid response, Jeremy G.
<best regards, Anthony>

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