Purigen and PURA Pad 5/19/09
Hello Crew, hope all is going well with you.
<Tis here.>
I have a question, please. Is it safe to use Purigen and the Pura pad together in a power filter? If not, what are the dangers?
<It is fine, though no real benefit, they do the same thing.>
Thank you,
James
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Black Diamond Activated Carbon and Phosphates - 06/08/2007
Dear Crew,
<Andy>
I have been battling Cyanobacteria for a few months in my 110g reef tank that has been running a little over a year. I have read and tried everything to eliminate the BGA, but to no avail. I siphon off all the BGA from my rocks each week when I do my water changes, but it grows back full force by the next week's water change. I have limited my photoperiod, I have been very careful about feeding, I upgraded my skimmer to an AquaC EV-180, I employ a 30g fuge with Chaeto, I run a PhosBan reactor with media, I removed my bio-balls, I use RO/DI water for all my water changes/top-offs . . . you get the picture. The one variable that I have not eliminated is the use of activated carbon.
<Mmmm, the Chaetomorpha and Phosban material should remove all soluble phosphate>
In fact, I believe I can trace the start of my problem to a switch from ESV activated carbon to Black Diamond activated carbon.
<Both are fine products in my experience>
It seems that since I made that switch, the BGA went from being here and there to being everywhere. I switched because I was thinking the ESV was leaching phosphates and causing the small amount of BGA I had, but this switch seems to have only made matters worse. I've read Steven Pro's article on phosphates in activated carbon, and see that Black Diamond leached 1 ppm of phosphates in the sample, and I'm thinking this must be my problem. My water parameters check out fine--0 ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, silicates and phosphates; pH is a steady 8.3; alk is a steady 3.5 meq/L; specific gravity is 1.026; temp is 78-80.
So, today I replaced all my carbon with Purigen and am hoping that this solves my mystery. Has anyone had similar experiences with Black Diamond (or other carbons) and do you think the switch to Purigen was a good one? The guy at the LFS convinced me to try it over Chemi-Pure, as you can regenerate Purigen and it was about the same price.
Thanks for your help!
Andy
<The API product has been known to pose excess HPO4 issues, but again, as stated, this should not be a problem here. In fact, I propose removing the contactor (Phosban) as your real issue may well be a lack of this essential nutrient... that is fueling the BGA, which can exist at much lower levels than is healthy for true algae/thallophytes and other purposeful photosynthetic livestock (e.g. "corals"). Put in another ways SOME phosphate is absolutely essential... the Cyano may well be being favored by its exclusion here. Bob Fenner>

Chemi-Pure Sucks... I Think????? – 04/01/08
I Recently put a bag of Chemi-Pure in my 46 gal bowfront tank thinking it was gonna help.
<<Help what?>>
Not 24 hours later mushroom corals melting and flame angel is short on breath.
<<…?>>
Pretty sure he’s gonna die. Fungia is no longer extending tentacles and my seahare doesn't look like it’s doing to good either. I guess the real question is.. by me changing out regular carbon and adding Chemi-Pure, the amount suggested by the bottle, I was wondering if the addition of too much carbon or whatever Chemi-Pure has is what made this happen??????????
<<Not typically, no…especially if you followed the manufacturer’s instructions. If indeed the Chemi-Pure is at fault here, it’s hard to say what may have caused this reaction as you have provided no information re water chemistry/tank conditions, before and after applying the Chemi-Pure. This is a good and well thought of product, but do remove it and see if things improve. I suppose there’s always the possibility of some type of contamination…though I suspect there are other factors at play here. Regards, EricR>> <More likely the Seahare itself is the cause of issues here. RMF>

Chemi Pure Question 1/22/08
Hello Wet Web Media crew,
<Hi Danny>
Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer a quick question of mine. I just made the switch in my 75 gallon saltwater FOWLR aquarium from Bio Chem Zorb to Chemi Pure. I always changed the Bio Chem Zorb once a month, but the manufacturer of Chemi Pure suggests it only needs to be replaced every 4-6 months. I'm a bit suspicious of this, and I certainly don't ascribe to their claim that it eliminates the need for future water changes. I still plan to do my 20% water changes every two weeks. What I would like to know is how often you suggest that I replace the bag of Chemi Pure in my canister filter? Would this recommendation be equally applicable for both fish-only tanks and reefs?
<Danny, this hype is all going to depend on fish load and tank/filter maintenance. I use this product and I change the media about every four months. My tank is lightly stocked and during water changes I do vacuum the coral sand. The use of a protein skimmer will also increase the time between Chemi Pure changes.
You also mention "replace the bag of Chemi Pure". In your size tank, two units of Chemi Pure are suggested for optimal water quality.>
Thank you very much!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Danny

Please Advise, Chemipure SW use or not    12/9/07
Just checking the following set up is ok. I have a fish only 1000L tank with sump filtration. The skimmer being used is a Deltec AP-701. The outlet of this skimmer is directed into the last compartment of the sump, along with the main return pump. Along with the skimmer I am using a Sander C200 and a Pin Point ORP controller. I also have an Eheim canister that contains 10 units of Chemi-Pure, the inlet and outlet hoses are also placed in the last compartment of the sump.
<Mmm, I'd move the intake to a more anterior compartment>
I change the carbon out at around 6 months as I have a low bio load.
<And likely label some how the Chemi-pure bags... and switch out two oldest for new every month...>
Do you think that the carbon will expire fast due to the use of the ozone.
<Mmm, no>
Was thinking of removing the Eheim and only using the ozone, or would you recommend to continue using the Chemi-Pure?.
<Well... depends... on what you are hoping to "get" by its use... and if you sense you're "getting it"... Likely the Carbon plus resin product is improving water clarity, removing some undesirable materials... but "enough" to satisfy you? The Eheim is likely "no fun" to service... You could leave off with its use and see if there is a difference... Bob Fenner>
Regards
Alan

Recharging Chemi-Pure? – 11/25/07
Hello all,
<<Morning Whit>>
Thanks in advance for your help.
<<A pleasure>>
I was wondering if there is any way to recharge Chemi-Pure?
<<Not that I am aware>>
I have looked and looked, but can’t find any information.
<<This product is a combination of carbon and an ion-exchange resin. It’s not possible/practical/economical for the hobbyist to regenerate carbon (requires considerable investment in a multiple-hearth furnace capable of generating temperatures of 800 °C)…and while it “is” possible to regenerate the ion-exchange resin (generally an overnight soak in a bleach solution), the effort required to separate the tiny resin beads from the carbon will likely prove to be non-worthwhile>>
Also, what are your thoughts regarding original Chemi-Pure, and the new Chemi-Pure Elite.
<<I think the original Chemi-Pure is great stuff…the efficacy of the new “Elite” version with the added iron-based phosphate remover remains to be seen>>
Is the Elite worth the cost difference?
<<At almost twice the price with a 17% increase in volume (10oz vs. 11.74oz) I’m inclined to stick with the original, and purchase an iron-based phosphate remover separately to be run/maintained in a separate reactor>>
Thanks!
Whit
<<Glad to assist. EricR>>

Cleaning Carbon
Hi Bob,
<Richard>
Maybe a silly question.....but do you have any tips on how to clean dusty carbon before putting it in the sump? I have some Kent Reef Carbon I would like to use, but always find that no matter how many times I dunk it in a container of RO/DI water....the carbon releases black junk. I am afraid to use it since I do not want the dust to enter my tank. I have put the Kent Reef Carbon on the shelf and am using Aquarium Systems Black Diamond carbon. Less dusty.
Thanks
Rich Maurin
<Not silly, or... at least we're about the same silly... I rinse new, dusty carbon (and other filter media) in either the "Dacron" bags it comes in or I put it in, or just in a net (in the sink with running freshwater) ahead of placing it. Bob Fenner>

- Calcium Addition Questions and More -
Dear WWM,
I recently purchased the 2 part B-Ionic solution (1 gal. ea.) additive for my 240 gallon saltwater system. I have over 200lbs. of Fiji rock mixed with a smaller amount of Tonga branch live rock. <Very nice.> I have a few soft corals growing on the rock although my tank is intended for fish only with live rock. For filtration I run an oversized trickle filter (no bio-balls) with standard foam media pads that are cleaned twice weekly, separate sump with deep sand bed & more live rock. Instant Ocean salt mix is used and my current readings are:
Specific Gravity: 1.026     using refractometer
kH: 10.2    Salifert test
Alk: 3.66   Salifert test
Calcium: 320   Salifert test
pH:  8.0   Sea Test
My question is, with my hardness and alkalinity pretty much within range, should I just use the # 2 portion only? <No... is a balanced formula and both parts should be added - just reduce your dose by 10 mg or so and go into maintenance mode.> My pH is a little low as far as I can tell, so how do I raise pH and calcium without raising the carbonate hardness and alkalinity with this product? <Hmm... I'd be looking for reasons for the pH to be low - perhaps measure more than once in a day - even in systems this large, the pH will shift from high to low over the course of the day. Certainly, with your alkalinity in the useful range, you shouldn't be having pH problems per se. Perhaps it is time to add an algae sump and light opposite of your tank lighting - to balance out pH.> In the future, can I just purchase the # 2 formula only to keep calcium levels higher within the 400 - 450 range? <No. Would not do this and would use Kalkwasser in this case, if all you want to do is maintain calcium - would also help bring up the pH a little, mixed Kalkwasser being around a pH of 12.> My local fish supply store only sells it as a 2 part formula together. It would seem that using Instant Ocean keeps desired levels of kH & Alk. in check but not Calcium & pH. <Could be your source water is dragging down the buffers in the salt - all other things being equal, IO salt is very consistent, including bringing the pH to 8.4 unless your water is acidic. You might want to test there, perhaps buffer before you add the salt.> By the way, the readings above were taken 1 day after a 20% water change which is performed once every two weeks. Interestingly enough, these are the same readings I got 1 day before doing the water change on my tank. I am interested in adding more calcium to my system to help the purple coralline algae re-generate growing on my rock. <Don't go too crazy - the coralline will come along on its own and in the meanwhile you'll spend a fortune in calcium supplements. A little bit of moderation will go a long way.> I posed this question to the folks over at ESV a week ago and they haven't responded, so I have not added either formula yet.
Also, I recently received and added six 10 ounce units of Boyd's Chemi - Pure from Doctor's Foster & Smith that I laid flat on the egg crate shelf below the trickle plate in my wet/dry filter. As the directions tell you to do, I rinsed each of the bags lightly after removing them from the plastic jar while moving the media around in the bag until the amount of dust appeared to tail off under the faucet water. Well, I must have got an extremely dusty lot because even after rinsing these six bags for several minutes each, they still gave off enough dust to make my water turn light grey and 3 days later I am still rinsing my filter pads that turn absolutely black after just a day! Is this normal? <Not in my experience.> The poor sponges growing in my sump and wet/dry have become covered in this junk and I have attempted to blow them off with a turkey baster as best I can without dislodging them. <This dust will move on its own.> Luckily, my fish and soft corals don't seem to be affected by the minute dust particles at this point. I remember using this stuff years ago and don't remember it being this dirty. Last night I took them all out and re-rinsed them all and they gave off so much black dust it was like they never were rinsed at all! <Perhaps old inventory - would contact Boyd's directly.> Obviously, I will do a more thorough job next time, but would the fact that the package they came in sat out in 25°F weather for a day effect them in a negative way that would make them give off dust, or I just got the bottom of the barrel mix? <Do believe the latter.> It's the only 2 possible reasons I can think of.
Thanks!
Joel
<Cheers, J -- >

Activated Carbon question 6/14/04
Good morning crew,
I bought some Activated Carbon through an e-retailer for my saltwater tank made by Eheim called EHFIKARBON.
When I received the shipment, the packaging said for freshwater tanks only.  I thought activated carbon was activated carbon.  What makes some good for use in salt/freshwater and others for only fresh?  
<hmmm... I'm sure it is "safe" for saltwater... instead, likely just rinsed in phosphoric acid like most carbon and as such is not as ideal for saltwater aquariums with algae that can flare with excess sources of phosphorous as a nutrient>
I bought a pretty large quantity (Doh!),  what would be the harm to my saltwater tank to use this brand/type? Thanks, Scott
<I'm sure it is fine my friend... there are so many other ways to import phosphate in to your tank (not the least of which - food!), you were never free from the need to address phosphate in your marine tank. You may even have it in your tap water and will need/want a phosphate chemical media (pad/sponge/resin) anyway. No worries... just keep an eye on it. Any carbon used has far greater benefits than this minor concern of phosphate. Anthony>

Marineland's black diamond carbon
<hello guys,>
Hi Antonio, this is Jorie.
<Is there someone from WetWebMedia who has used or is very familiar with Marineland's black diamond carbon?>
I've used the product and think it works quite well, but it is NOT a miracle "cure-all" or substitute for regular water changes and general good husbandry.
<I have been researching on the net. and even in Marineland's webpage.....but there are no specific statement that they will remove ammonia and etc.>
OK, now you're addressing the lawyer-to-be in me - they are quite smart not to make such a claim.  Truly the only way to remove unwanted toxins is water changes, and lots of them.
<I already tried emailing Marineland....but no response :(>
Well, that's not good...they should respond.  How long has it been? I'm sure they get tons of e-mails, so do try to be patient...
<my questions are:
1.)  will this activated carbon neutralize/remove the following:
- ammonia
- nitrates
- chlorine
- chloramines
- nitrite
- heavy metals found in tap water
2.)  what others "deadly stuff" for fish...can this product remove?>
Ammonia, nitrite and nitrates are best removed by water changes - I can't stress this enough.  As for minerals found in tap water, chlorine, etc. your best bet is to go with a de-ionized (DI) or reverse osmosis (RO), or combination thereof, unit.  The other type of filter I like to run is called a PolyFilter - it does a great job of removing phosphates and other unwanted.  But again, even that isn't a substitute for water change!
<thanks so much!!!>
You are so welcome.  Don't mean to sound like a broken record about the H20 change, but I can't stress the importance enough.  I'd venture to say many, if not most aquarium problems are in fact caused by poor water conditions, so keep changing that water! Good luck.
<Sincerely,
Antonio>
Sincerely,
Jorie

Kent carbon, Phosphates and algae
Dear Sir's, I have had an algae problem since setting up my reef tank 8 months ago, mainly hair algae (the usual I know).  I think they call it hair algae because when you get plagued with it you pull your hair out!<HA!!>
The tank is 250uk gallons and has around 120-130kg of live rock 3x 250watt 14k metal halide lamps around 6 months old. I use Rowaphos continually. The phosphate measures 0 with the new high accuracy Deltec test kit. Nitrate also measures 0. I have used Kent reef carbon since setting up my aquarium.  I use instant ocean salt and have an AquaMedic 1000 calcium reactor set to 6.7ph and about 2 drips per second effluent. Lots of water flow with 2 Tunze 6100's, all top off through Kalkwasser stirrer with RO. Water changes, about 7% per week.
Now, my question, sorry to rattle on....<No Problem.>
Just recently I decided to test the carbon for phosphates against the AquaMedic brand. I put a few pellets of each make, 1 week old carbon into some RO water. The Kent carbon went off the scale on the Deltec test kit to around 0.6ppm while the AquaMedic tested around 0.2. I am concerned that this is fuelling my algae bloom and I am not reading phosphate in the tank as the algae is utilizing it. What do you think?<It absolutely could be the situation.> Does this sound like it could be the problem?<Yep!!! Your testing methods was a good step to take.> Any information will be of a great help....I looked under the different carbon topics but couldn't find anything of this nature. Please let me know if you would like anymore information. Kind regards, Lee
<Lee, There are carbons that contain phosphate in their molecular structure.  Is there any reason why you are running carbon in your reef tank.  If you have a sufficient protein skimmer then you won't need to use carbon.  I would also recommend testing for silicates.  They can cause algae blooms also.  Remove the carbon and physically remove the algae and see what happens.  Good Luck MikeB.>

Rinse That Carbon! - 11/25/05
Hi Again!
<<Howdy>>
Well I have finished my treatment with Cupramine and I am very happy with its results.  Now that I have basically done a 100 percent water change, added Bio-Spira and carbon, here is my question.
<<shoot>>
Might be somewhat stupid.
<<Only if not asked.>>
I bought a small pre-bagged pouch of activated carbon (from Hagen, it's AquaClear) and put it in the little Cascade filter but I realized that a lot of carbon "Crumbs" and dust came into the tank. I siphoned out as much of it as I could but I can't pin-point every spec.  Does this dust have any adverse effect on the fish?
<<Nothing to worry about mate...next time pre-rinse the carbon under the tap to rinse away the dust.>>
Thanks so much!
-Jon
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: From Stocking to Filtration Media  12/26/05
Thanks again for your expert input I am heeding your advice and removing the copperband tomorrow and possibly more fish.  
<Great to hear.>
I have an unrelated question and could not find the answer on your website.
<I’m here to help.>
I have just started a CPR refugium with Chaetomorpha and a Venturi skimmer ran by a maxi-jet 1200. I have read a lot about the use of carbon filtration such as ChemiPure being placed in a chamber after skimming and before the return.  I am new to the hobby and I am confused on the use of carbon (ChemiPure) with the system I have.  Can you please explain further and advise if this is something I should pursue?   
<Carbon is great for emergencies, such as “accidental’ pouring of unwanted substances into the aquarium or to absorb chemicals from neighboring/warring sessile invertebrates. However due tot he half-life of carbon its usefulness is over in about 24 hours. So it’s great to have on hand but in a balanced mature system, it’s quite unnecessary to continuously run carbon. Chemi-pure however is not carbon; ChemiPure is a product made by BOYD enterprises that claims to be made of an ionically charged generator/exchange unit that stabilizes pH as well as act as a chemical absorption.  I do not know the ingredients of this product and have never used it myself and thus cannot encourage or discourage its use. However I will say that personally I have never used any type of chemically reactive media except the aforementioned carbon in emergencies. The only things keeping my reef alive at the moment are live rock, copious amounts of water-flow, an oversized skimmer and a large fishless/macroalgae refugium and of course weekly/large water changes. For more personal opinions on Chemi-pure and such products I would read through/join some chat forums, we have our own here www.wetwebfotos.com/talk , very helpful folks there as well, tell them Adam sent you.>
I look forward to your
response. Thanks
<You are welcome, Adam J.>

Re: Chemical media  12/2/05
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I appreciate the suggestion to use ChemiPure. I haven't used that for this particular application, but I will give it a try. 
<<It's good stuff.  So are PolyFilters (my favorite!).  MH>>
I may get a Magnum HOB at some point, but I will try the ChemiPure first.
Thank you again. 
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>