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FAQs on Chemical Filtration, Types/Selection
Related FAQs: Carbon 1,
Carbon 2, & FAQs on
Carbon: Rationale/Use,
Placement, Renewal,
Negative Reactions, Sources/Brands, &
Marine Chemical Filtrants Related
Articles: Marine Chemical Filtrants,
Zeolite Filters: A Discussion of What Zeolites Are and How They
Function by Jens Kallmeyer,
The ZEOvit System: A New Concept in Reefkeeping by Alexander
Girz, All life needs some of the
chemicals potentially/actually removed by such. | MD.JPG)
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Caribbean Biotope, stocking, new tank media replacement and substrate
for Jaw Fish 4/25/09
Hello all,
<Hello, sorry for the slow response here.>
Thanks in advance for answering my questions and for being (at least for
me) one of the best online sources of information.
<Welcome!>
My question is this I read you FAQ on Caribbean Biotope and I wanted to
start my own but with some slight differences. I was going to add LR to
both sides and leave the center open or maybe just on one side and leave
the rest an open area would the latter be better for everybody?
<Either can work fine, tis more of a personal aquascaping choice.>
I have 3 fish now a Royal Gramma, a Lawnmower Blenny, and a Yellow Clown
Goby and 2 Peppermint Shrimp that I want to add to my new system.
My new system is a Red Sea Max 65 Gallon all in one and because it is a
new system I will leave it fallow for 2-3 months or more so it can get
established or my wife makes me.
<LOL! NO reason to wait so long unless you are curing new rock...even
then you can accomplish the swap once it is "cured". See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm>
For stocking I was going to add some more fish but I don’t know what
else to put in there and my wife want to put fish that are seen and not
hidden and I don’t want to push my bio load because I want to make a
reef safe tank with some species of coral that will go with my lighting.
<Okay, again a very personal choice of taste. Research re suitability
and compatibility will show you the way.>
My next question is should I replace my foam media with a different type
of foam? Also should I replace my ceramic pieces for LR rubble?
<What, where? Do you have LR in the main system?>
My last question is the substrate for the Jaw Fish, I read your FAQ on
Jaw Fish systems and I want to make sure that I have my “ducks in a row”
before I start. Can I add 30lbs of Aragonite Aragamax sugar sand, (1st
layer) 40lbs of Ocean Direct Caribbean Live Sand (2nd layer) and 10lbs
of Florida Crushed Coral sand (3rd layer) or would I have to add more to
make my new Jaw Fish happy?
<This will put you at about the bare minimum IMO. I would include some
more CC or even some larger shell type pieces.>
Thank You,
Ramon and Sons
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Caribbean Biotope,
stocking, new tank media replacement and substrate for Jaw Fish 4/26/09
Thank you for answering my question,
<My pleasure.>
The tank has been set-up for about a week and it has some base rock and
a piece of LR, I will be transferring some of my LR from my 29 Gallon
that is already running but I have BGA on the rocks and I'm in the
process of trying to get rid of it via a 10 gallon tank with a skimmer
and water changes.
<Ah, good, steady with the battle.>
The tank it self has a compartment in the back of the tank that has a
foam block (black) that keep air bubbles from going into the pump and
back into the tank, it also has and area that houses 1 bags of ceramic
media( rings) and a platform that holds 2 bags of carbon.
<Okay.>
I was thinking about changing the carbon for a bag Chem-Pure Elite and
adding a bag of Purigen while removing the foam because of the build up
it might cause but I wanted to know should I do it during the cycle
process?
<You can leave it be, but be sure to rinse it frequently. The other
medias are fine, but of little value over just carbon in most cases.>
My other half wanted the water changes to be at least once a month so I
don't know what I should do to keep her happy and not put me in the outs
with he as far as spending all the money.
<Well, no way around it, smaller more frequent water changes are just
better.>
She also said that I can have a Refugium but no more DIY's.
<Dang! DIY is fun!>
I also will be adding another 20 lbs of substrate to the tank, it is by
RedSea (Reef Base) would this be good to add or another type.
<Sure, sounds good, Scott V.>
Use of Purigen/Carbon/Polyfilter and Algae 8/6/08 Good Evening,
<Hello Sean.> I have been battling some green hair algae problems and
it was recommended to me by one of your crew (M. Maddox) to use Purigen,
activated carbon, phosphate sponge and Polyfilter. <I would pick one
of these, not the phosphate sponge. Running all of this will do too much
and start a whole new set of issues. The best course of action would be
to find the fuel source for the algae and control it.> I do regular 7
gallon weekly (at least) water changes with only RO water. I also picked
up a protein skimmer (CPR SR3) which has been up and running about 2
weeks now. My question is does Purigen require water to be forced
through it like carbon and phos sponge? The directions don't say
anything specific like the phos sponge and carbon directions do. <You
will need to flow water through it, yes.> Also I have an 29gallon
Oceanic BioCube and I'm trying to find places to stuff the media bags.
Would it be in my best interest to use a canister filter or would
stuffing media bags into high flow areas accomplish the same thing?
<This is one point of consideration re which media. If you do not have a
suitable space for bagged media, the Polyfilter is a good choice.
Really, there is no need to run both.> Also can/should I mix
different medias together into a single bag and put it in high flow (I
know this won't apply to phos sponge because it needs to be removed in 2
days)? <You could mix, but doing so takes away your opportunity to
remove one or the other if need be.> Also how much of these medias
can/should I use (not much indication on directions)? <A few
tablespoons of carbon is all for a system this size. The Polyfilter can
be cut to fit your filtration on the tank, this will force the water to
flow through the filter.> I have heard that carbon can potentially
bleach corals. Is this true? <It some systems the sudden use of too
much of these filtrants can cause shock, both chemically and physically;
lighting intensity increase due to increased water clarity.> Thanks
for any and all help! Best regards, Sean <Welcome, I have
included a link below for you. This will give you the general idea
behind what to look for battling the algae. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
Even the Italians do it :) 2/6/03 Normally I bother Calfo, now I
try this address! <I'm over here too, my friend. Buon giorno from
America> What You suggest for Activated Carbon in a SPS tank...
continuous use? 2 days-month use? And for quantity? <yes, my friend..
continuous use in small portions changed weekly for full reef tanks,
especially. Perhaps 3-5 ounces per 400l weekly... just an estimate,
though. Let the color of the water (yellowing agents) be your guide >
Thanks MUCH! Marco, Italy <Ciao m'amico, Anthony> Pod
culture, carbon Hello Anthony, Bob et al ! <Hi Roger>
Thanks to all of you, your assistance is Priceless. Read
a lot of FAQ's, still haven't found a sound answer. Just finished
building an 22 gal acrylic sump. Was going to be a wet/dry but I read
the section on bio-balls! Modified it now to a 22 gal refugium.
<Ahh, "a stitch in time, saves your mind!"> My Nitrates have long
been 0.2 but I'd still like to incorporate a 4' sand bed and really
would like to make this a pod factory. I'll start gathering some LR
rubble from the LFS but in the interim, is there anything else I can add
to optimize the space? <Some macroalgae> Would lava rock work as
a good habitat for the pods? <Not really> In essence, what
would constitute "prime" pod habitat ???? <Mounded LR,
macrophytes... there are actually MANY organisms considered "pods" that
live in diverse habitats.> Second question. I have access to
commercial grade anthracite coal used in water purification
plants. Particle size is about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch long. Can I use
this without harming the tank inhabitants (fish, corals and inverts)?
<Likely yes... talk with the "folks in your lab" re this application,
find out how much "free" phosphate this product is likely to leach...
get their input on preparing it (likely at least soaking for a day ahead
of use) and try just a few ounces (in a Dacron bag) to see what sort of
effects...> I "think" I remember reading that "activated" carbon
is actually anthracite plus some process. Could you explain the process
or the difference? What makes carbon "activated" <Not in a short
space... Again, I encourage you to ask these questions of the "lab"...
and the Net for that matter! Bob Fenner> Thanks a ton
! RJS Redding, California
Non-Aquarium-Specific Carbon
Alternative? Hi WWM Crew! <Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Is food grade activated carbon as used in RO systems suitable for marine
aquarium filtration? I just found that it's ten times cheaper than
activated carbon marketed for aquarium use. Thanks Timon <Well,
Timon- I'm always a bit wary of using non-aquarium-specific products for
our purposes. Initially, you'd think that carbon used in water
purification would be okay for aquarium use- and it might be! However,
my concern is the potential of the carbon to contain and leach
phosphates into the water; a substance that we as hobbyists are always
trying to eliminate. My best thought is to contact the manufacturer to
confirm whether or not the carbon contains phosphates or other
potentially harmful substances. If you can get positive answers to those
questions, it may be possible to use this carbon. Regards, Scott F.>
Non-Aquarium-Specific Carbon Alternative? (Pt.2) Hi Scott,
thanks for your reply. <You're quite welcome!> Is there any way
to test for this? E.g., soak the carbon in water overnight and test the
water for phosphates? Thanks Timon <Well, Timon- that's
essentially the way that I'd test for it. Do be sure to take a "control"
test of the water prior to placing the carbon sample in, to get a
"baseline" reading of phosphate in the water. Ideally, you'd use RO/DI
water for this test. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Carbon in aquaria and human consumption 6/12/06 Greetings Crew,
<Hello> I have been reading through past posts about the use of
carbon in marine and freshwater systems and have a question. <ok> In
answering questions on carbon and how long it lasts, more than one crew
member responded that carbons' usefulness lasts only a few hours to a
day or two at most. <Yep> It is suggested that after this period it is
no longer 'activated' so to speak. I know that Brita and other
manufactures use carbon for their water filters. They also allow for 30
days or so of usage before replacing. Does this mean that their filters
aren't actually doing anything for 29 of those 30 days?
Thanks for any help in clearing this up...no pun intended) : ) Eric
B. <Some of it is marketing, who would buy a filter that needs to be
replaced every day, and some is the environment. Tap water is going to
have a lot less "stuff" in it to remove than the water from your average
fish tank. The city water system sees to that. Also the amount of
water running through a "Brita" like filter adds up to at most probably
10 gallons a day, while a filter on a normal powerfilter could push
through 10X that in one hour. Carbon basically has only so many holes
in it to fill up with unwanted material. The rate which these holes
fill up depends on the concentration of impurities in the water and how
much contact time with the water it has.> <Chris>
Carbon Questions Part II 6/14/06 Thank you
Chris for your feedback <Sure> So the less impurities in your water the
longer the life of the carbon. <Mostly yes, depends on the type of
impurities, some are more easily absorbed then others.> I was confused
by the other posts and the mention of carbons' 'half life'. They
created the impression that carbon had a limited life, no matter what;
in essence, that it broke down in a matter of hours, regardless of what
or how much was passed through it <The reality in aquariums, few hours
to a few days.> One final question, what purpose does the carbon serve
then, after the initial 24 hrs? <Will work in limited capacity for a
while, mostly just not worth taking out.> Many posts suggest running
carbon 24/7. <Like many things in this hobby, opinions differ
greatly. I myself do not run carbon, and when I do feel I need
something I run poly-filters in their place. Many do swear by it and
have success using it.> Eric B. <Chris>
Filter Media/Large Commercial Systems 7/5/07 I just found your
website while doing research on toxin adsorption. You could spend weeks
here; it's great. Since I don't have that much time, could someone
tell me if there are lower cost alternatives to using bulk, granular,
activated carbon as a filter medium in 2,000 gallon food fish tanks?
GAC must be priced for its potential to form diamonds in the future.
<Gary, if this is a marine system, you may want to invest in a
commercial skimmer. Prices for these are $700 and up. Here is a link
to one site, but a Google search should produce many more.
http://www.aquatictech.com/skimmers.htm I know of no other media that
would be less expensive than carbon, Mr. Fenner may have some input
here. You would get a better price per pound if you bought in bulk. You
may want to contact some of the manufacturers of carbon for pricing in
this regard.> Thanks. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Gary
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