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FAQs about Stony Coral Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Frequency
Related Articles: Coral Feeding,
Food/Feeding/Nutrition, LPS Corals,
True or Stony Corals, Order Scleractinia,
Propagation for Marine Aquarium Use,
Related FAQs: Coral Feeding 1,
Coral Feeding 2, Coral Feeding 3,
& FAQs on Stony Coral Feeding: Rationale,
Types, Amounts,
Techniques, Coral Foods DIY,
Commercial Products... &
Cnidarian Feeding, Growing
Reef Corals, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony
Coral Behavior, See Also:
Marine Foods/Feeding/Nutrition in the lower tray of
Marine Maintenance: |
All species and specimens have their own particular dynamic... of
how often they feed, what part of the day, what triggers them...
Trainable and change-able to extents. Meet their needs by
understanding what yours requires. Most should be fed 3-5
times weekly. RMF |
- Overfeeding Concern -
Hi, crew... <Good morning, JasonC here...> In my latest
incarnation of a reef tank (75g, up for 11 months now), I've started
feeding my corals, something I hadn't done before. It seems to be doing
the job, but I've had some issues with the skimmer's going wild, etc.,
and I wonder if I'm feeding enough/too much, or even appropriate
foods. I have a mix of LPS (elegance, open and closed brains, hammer,
frogspawn and a Scolymia), SPS (mostly Acro and Monti), and one soft
(finger leather), along with clams, Ricordea, and one Ritteri
anemone. The feeding regimen is three times a week while the pumps are
off for around 45 minutes, in which I mix 2 tsp. of powdered krill
(crushed myself), 2 tsp of Sweetwater zooplankton, and approx. 2 tbsp.
of shaved frozen Mysis shrimp. I mix this into a slurry with some tank
water, and use it for directed feedings in a turkey baster to the LPS,
Ricordea, and anemone. I also use it for the SPS, but only once the
large particles are used up (so the media is almost a cloud by that
point), although I suspect it doesn't help the SPS much. The clams get a
directed feeding of phytoplankton at the same time. For various
reasons I'm not able to use a refugium, although I have virtually every
other piece of equipment, including a reactor that keeps alk at 12 dKH
and calcium at around 450, and an AquaC 180 skimmer (which is advertised
as being for larger tanks, but I wanted an oversized skimmer); is there
anything better I can use to feed the SPS? <You could try Eric
Borneman's recipe, presented in his book Aquarium Corals.> I'm
concerned, also, that I might be adding too much food, as I've had a
hammer coral die, and a couple of SPS's lose tissue sporadically. While
I'm looking into other causes of that, I'm wondering if the feeding
regimen might actually be causing nutrient overload. <How much seems to
be coming out in the skimmer? Test your own theory and try feeding
less.> Arthur <Cheers, J -- > Coral Feeding and
Nutrient Accumulation... Hi, all (or whomever)... <Scott F.
the "Whomever" tonight!> In my latest incarnation of a reef tank
(75g, up for 11 months now), I've started feeding my corals, something I
hadn't done before. It seems to be doing the job, but I've had some
issues with the skimmer's going wild, etc., and I wonder if I'm feeding
enough/too much, or even appropriate foods. I have a mix of LPS
(elegance, open and closed brains, hammer, frogspawn and a Scolymia)
<All of which may be fed regularly> , SPS (mostly Acro and Monti)
<Also can be fed regularly with zooplankton/zooplankton substitutes>
and one soft (finger leather) <Feeding is not really as important
with this species as it is with others> along with clams, Ricordea,
and one Ritteri anemone. The feeding regimen is three times a week
while the pumps are off for around 45 minutes, in which I mix 2 tsp. of
powdered krill (crushed myself), 2 tsp of Sweetwater zooplankton, and
approx. 2 tbsp. of shaved frozen Mysis shrimp. <Sounds good for the
LPS corals, and the anemone...Particle size may be a bit large for the
SPS corals...The liquid suspension, administered judiciously, may work,
though> I mix this into a slurry with some tank water, and use it for
directed feedings in a turkey baster to the LPS, Ricordea, and anemone.
<Right on!> I also use it for the SPS, but only once the large
particles are used up (so the media is almost a cloud by that point),
although I suspect it doesn't help the SPS much. The clams get a
directed feeding of phytoplankton at the same time. <I agree that you
need to feed either the fine "juices", or just use the
phytoplankton....> For various reasons I'm not able to use a
refugium, although I have virtually every other piece of equipment,
including a reactor that keeps alk at 12 dKH and calcium at around 450,
and an AquaC 180 skimmer (which is advertised as being for larger tanks,
but I wanted an oversized skimmer); is there anything better I can use
to feed the SPS? <It would be cool to culture some live plankton, but
this is a rather tedious process...There are sources of these materials,
available from places like Florida Aqua Farms, or Indo Pacific Sea
Farms...Do a little web searching for this...> I'm concerned, also,
that I might be adding too much food, and I've had a hammer coral die,
and a couple of SPS lose tissue sporadically. While I'm looking into
other causes of that, I'm wondering if the feeding regimen might
actually be causing nutrient overload. Arthur <I agree that there may
be an issue of nutrient accumulation within the tank, possibly due to
the feeding of your corals...If there is a degradation of water quality,
such as an accumulation of phosphate or nitrate cab result in negative
effects on your corals. The solution- aggressive nutrient export
processes, particularly frequent small water changes, use of chemical
filtration media (i.e.; activated carbon and/or Poly Filter), and other
steps taken to ensure that water quality remains as high as
possible...You have made some great observations, appear to have a keen
understanding about what's going on in your tank, and a willingness to
make necessary changes. Good luck with your system! Regards, Scott F>
Feeding of Trachyphyllia radiata Gentlemen, <cheers> I
purchased a Trachyphyllia radiata two days ago. My question concerns
feeding. I have a red open brain that clearly exhibits feeding tentacles
at night, <the deeper water variety... green is more shallow water.
T. radiata and T. geoffroyi are now synonymous species> which is when
I feed it (at least twice a week -- chopped clams and/or shrimp).
<almost certainly not enough food for the coral to live 5+ years
(although likely enough for a couple of years. 3-5 times weekly if not
daily for most> The Trachyphyllia radiata is *much* larger during the
day than at night. <it is more effectively photosynthetic (by
variety not by virtue of its size)> In fact, I am amazed that the
amount of 'flesh' that is exhibited by day can be successfully withdrawn
into its skeleton at night. It's only been two days, but I have not
seen any feeder tentacles. <much more time is needed for many corals
to acclimate to new light and water quality... be patient> At a LFS,
they have an Elegance coral that must be fed by day, as it closes up at
night. <all such corals can be enticed to feed most anytime with the
right food/attractant> Is the Trachyphyllia radiata the same way,
i.e., <nit by nature at all. All of these LPS feed on zooplankton by
night> I must feed it during the day while it is 'fleshy', or will it
normally display feeding tentacles nocturnally, like my red open brain.
<only the feeding tentacles will effectively sting and draw organismal
matter. Careful not to feed large chunks of food either... very finely
minced is critical else the coral will draw it in but regurgitate it
later and still starve> I am anxious to make sure this specimen feeds
on a good meal of clam or shrimp. <more variety in the diet too
please: frozen Gammarus, mysids and Pacifica plankton for starters>
Also, the clerk who sold me the Trachyphyllia radiata said that he uses
a technique in his reef tank that consists of taking freeze dried shrimp
pellets and soaking them in Selcon or Vita-Chem, and feeding these to
his corals. <OK> Once fully saturated, they sink quite easily and
stay in place quite well. I just haven't had any luck getting the
Trachyphyllia radiata to take these or finely chopped clams. I was
just wondering about your thoughts on vitamin soaked freeze dried
<whatever> as a food adjunct to go along with finely chopped clams,
shrimp, squid, etc. FD foods are strange fare to offer and the risk
of air trapping is mild but worth mentioning. Soaking the food in Selcon
is an excellent idea though. Rely on thawed frozen meats of marine
origin> Sincerely, Mark Schwartz <best regards, Anthony PS:
if it interests you... see the following article on Trach reproduction
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyreproart.htm> Feeding Corals
Please be sure that you are feeding all of these LPS almost daily or
they starve very slowly over time (and swell while panning for light
in the meantime making you think they are growing!).<< I never used
to do this, but after reading on the WWM site, I began feeding about a
month ago. <excellent!> Twice a week (probably should be more
often, <agreed> but it's a pain :)), <understood...hence the
need and importance for upstream fishless refugia to culture natural
live plankton> I mince up krill, and add some zooplankton bought at
LFS (looks like caviar :)). Mix in some tank water, and I'm ready to
go. <very fine> However, the method is the problem: I generally do
it just after the actinic "dawn" lights come on, <Doh! When the
plankton feeding corals have begun to retract their modified feeding
tentacles from the night before!> and I turn off the powerheads and
pumps, except for the one coming from the sump to keep the overflow
going. I then take a turkey baster and try to "baste" them; for
example, place the food on the bubbles in the bubble coral. I have no
idea if it's working well or not, though. <frozen food should be
thawed, drained of pack juice and then put into a bit of tank water so
the slurry doesn't shock the coral. You will see then food being stung
by the tentacles of the tentacles are still out> It seems like
there's a lot of waste, and the little remaining current in the tank
seems like it sweeps food away before the corals (bubble, hammer,
frogspawn, polyps, mushrooms, etc.) have a chance to grab it. In
addition, the fish and shrimp/crab grab whatever they can. <perhaps
feeding a bit too much... corals don't need much... just regularly>
Is there a better way to do this? <yep... a refugium above your
tank growing your own live pods naturally> I looked through the FAQ
and your article on feeding, but I couldn't find a description of
methodology (aside from the recommendation about a turkey baster, which
I'm trying to use). Thanks...Arthur <Many variations on this theme.
Best regards, Anthony> Feeding coral Thank you Anthony.
Thanks for the help. I am a little new at the zooplankton and hope that
helps. <it will help for certain.. it is THE natural food> I do
have a few questions about feeding the zooplankton. How often, how
much? Or the usual question I guess. <varies by specimen and
bio-load in tank (available nutrients from fish, feeding, feces, etc...
actual light quality, etc) and many actors. But, I'd say 3-5 times
weekly minimum. A small feeding daily is ideal> I had been feeding my
home made clam etc mash to one and all using a turkey baster, every 2 to
3 days.... <pretty good... but more often please. Again... small
amounts are OK> Now, with the zooplankton, I am trying different
things. The first of which has been a mixture of the zoo (a piece about
the size of a small marble), <Helene... I apologize, but I have
forgotten in the flurry of e-mail if I referred you to this article
before... But... on the WWM "latest article/FAQ page We have a
bunch of pertinent reef articles there including one on "Feeding reef
invertebrates"... tells all. You really seem to have missed the
fundamentals here (prey size and composition). The food particles you
are feeding are too large (never more than 1/4")... and do pay attention
to polyp size and behavior... it is very telling about their dietary
needs.> with the phytoplankton, a little of the clam stuff (marble
size again), some vitamins...OK? or should it all be done
separately.... Varied is more important than separated or mixed.>
remember of course that I love all the little darlings but I do have a
job! <understood... that's why I keep suggesting that you simply feed
a natural zoo-substitute like whole prey gammarus, Pacifica plankton
and/or Mysis. No blending, mixing, supplementing, etc> Also, should
we take out the sponge in the overflow? <I'm sorry dear... I don't
recall what the sponge was for?> We have the skimmer going all the
time and carbon once in a while. <I'd strongly recommend using
carbon in small amounts changed frequently 24/7. Off and on use can
severely effect coral health by shocking them suddenly with increased
water clarity (less yellowing agents) from fresh carbon after an
absence> Someone said that the sponge will just catch all the
zooplankton and ruin all our efforts.... <possible yes> (keep in
mind 75 gal tank, with 6 line wrasse, Sailfin tang, blue damsel, and 3
Chromis, assorted corals, brain, pearl, mushrooms, a few others who's
names I have to get more familiar with (so much to learn so little
time), the usual clean up crew) Hard to see if the crew is cleaning up
all the food when the partials are so fine. Just not sure about the
amounts. Perhaps step up a little individual feeding for the pearl
coral? <indeed... target feeding is always better when time allows>
No Mariah Carey for the Pearl.......but maybe a little Lyle Lovett at
feeding time? <Doh! What was Julia Roberts thinking?!?! If I had
known her bar was set that low I would have flown out to LA in a
Frankenstein costume and married a celebrity> And what about soft
lighting? Aside from the romance, do they prefer to eat in the dark?
<they actually do (mentioned in the article above)... zooplankton
feeders naturally feed after the lights go out when plankton
flares/comes out at night> As usual, each thought brings a new
question.....The update for the coral book is a great help. Thanks for
sending it along.....Take it easy....Helene <thank you for your
eagerness to learn, my friend! Best regards, Anthony>
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