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FAQs about Stony Coral Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Frequency
Related Articles: Coral Feeding, Food/Feeding/Nutrition,
LPS Corals, True or
Stony Corals, Order Scleractinia, Propagation
for Marine Aquarium Use,
Related FAQs: Coral Feeding 1, Coral Feeding 2,
Coral
Feeding 3, & FAQs on Stony Coral
Feeding: Rationale,
Types, Amounts,
Techniques, Coral Foods DIY,
Commercial Products... &
Cnidarian Feeding,
Growing
Reef Corals, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony
Coral Behavior,
See Also: Marine Foods/Feeding/Nutrition in the lower
tray of Marine Maintenance:
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All species and specimens have their own particular
dynamic... of how often they feed, what part of the day, what triggers
them... Trainable and change-able to extents. Meet their needs by
understanding what yours requires. Most should be fed 3-5 times
weekly. RMF |
- Overfeeding Concern -
Hi, crew...
<Good morning, JasonC here...>
In my latest incarnation of a reef tank (75g, up for 11 months now), I've
started feeding my corals, something I hadn't done before. It seems
to be doing the job, but I've had some issues with the skimmer's going wild,
etc., and I wonder if I'm feeding enough/too much, or even appropriate
foods. I have a mix of LPS (elegance, open and closed brains, hammer,
frogspawn and a Scolymia), SPS (mostly Acro and Monti), and one soft (finger
leather), along with clams, Ricordea, and one Ritteri anemone. The
feeding regimen is three times a week while the pumps are off for around 45
minutes, in which I mix 2 tsp. of powdered krill (crushed myself), 2 tsp of
Sweetwater zooplankton, and approx. 2 tbsp. of shaved frozen Mysis
shrimp. I mix this into a slurry with some tank water, and use it for
directed feedings in a turkey baster to the LPS, Ricordea, and
anemone. I also use it for the SPS, but only once the large particles
are used up (so the media is almost a cloud by that point), although I suspect
it doesn't help the SPS much. The clams get a directed feeding of phytoplankton
at the same time.
For various reasons I'm not able to use a refugium, although I have virtually
every other piece of equipment, including a reactor that keeps alk at 12 dKH and
calcium at around 450, and an AquaC 180 skimmer (which is advertised as being
for larger tanks, but I wanted an oversized skimmer); is there anything better I
can use to feed the SPS? <You could try Eric Borneman's recipe, presented in
his book Aquarium Corals.> I'm concerned, also, that I might be adding too
much food, as I've had a hammer coral die, and a couple of SPS's lose tissue
sporadically. While I'm looking into other causes of that, I'm
wondering if the feeding regimen might actually be causing nutrient overload.
<How much seems to be coming out in the skimmer? Test your own theory and try
feeding less.>
Arthur
<Cheers, J -- >
Coral Feeding and Nutrient Accumulation...
Hi, all (or whomever)...
<Scott F. the "Whomever" tonight!>
In my latest incarnation of a reef tank (75g, up for 11 months now), I've
started feeding my corals, something I hadn't done before. It seems
to be doing the job, but I've had some issues with the skimmer's going wild,
etc., and I wonder if I'm feeding enough/too much, or even appropriate
foods. I have a mix of LPS (elegance, open and closed brains, hammer,
frogspawn and a Scolymia)
<All of which may be fed regularly>
, SPS (mostly Acro and Monti)
<Also can be fed regularly with zooplankton/zooplankton substitutes>
and one soft (finger leather)
<Feeding is not really as important with this species as it is with
others>
along with clams, Ricordea, and one Ritteri anemone. The feeding
regimen is three times a week while the pumps are off for around 45 minutes, in
which I mix 2 tsp. of powdered krill (crushed myself), 2 tsp of Sweetwater
zooplankton, and approx. 2 tbsp. of shaved frozen Mysis shrimp.
<Sounds good for the LPS corals, and the anemone...Particle size may be a bit
large for the SPS corals...The liquid suspension, administered judiciously, may
work, though>
I mix this into a slurry with some tank water, and use it for directed feedings
in a turkey baster to the LPS, Ricordea, and anemone.
<Right on!>
I also use it for the SPS, but only once the large particles are used up (so the
media is almost a cloud by that point), although I suspect it doesn't help the
SPS much. The clams get a directed feeding of phytoplankton at the
same time.
<I agree that you need to feed either the fine "juices", or just
use the phytoplankton....>
For various reasons I'm not able to use a refugium, although I have virtually
every other piece of equipment, including a reactor that keeps alk at 12 dKH and
calcium at around 450, and an AquaC 180 skimmer (which is advertised as being
for larger tanks, but I wanted an oversized skimmer); is there anything better I
can use to feed the SPS?
<It would be cool to culture some live plankton, but this is a rather tedious
process...There are sources of these materials, available from places like
Florida Aqua Farms, or Indo Pacific Sea Farms...Do a little web searching for
this...>
I'm concerned, also, that I might be adding too much food, and I've had a hammer
coral die, and a couple of SPS lose tissue sporadically. While I'm
looking into other causes of that, I'm wondering if the feeding regimen might
actually be causing nutrient overload. Arthur
<I agree that there may be an issue of nutrient accumulation within the tank,
possibly due to the feeding of your corals...If there is a degradation of water
quality, such as an accumulation of phosphate or nitrate cab result in negative
effects on your corals. The solution- aggressive nutrient export processes,
particularly frequent small water changes, use of chemical filtration media
(i.e.; activated carbon and/or Poly Filter), and other steps taken to ensure
that water quality remains as high as possible...You have made some great
observations, appear to have a keen understanding about what's going on in your
tank, and a willingness to make necessary changes. Good luck with your system!
Regards, Scott F>
Feeding of Trachyphyllia radiata
Gentlemen,
<cheers>
I purchased a Trachyphyllia radiata two days ago. My question concerns
feeding. I have
a red open brain that clearly exhibits feeding tentacles at night,
<the deeper water variety... green is more shallow water. T. radiata and T. geoffroyi are now
synonymous species>
which
is when I feed it (at
least twice a week -- chopped clams and/or shrimp).
<almost certainly not enough food for the coral to live 5+ years (although likely enough for a couple of years. 3-5 times weekly if not daily for most>
The Trachyphyllia
radiata is *much*
larger during the day than at night.
<it is more effectively photosynthetic (by variety not by virtue of its size)>
In fact, I am amazed that the
amount of 'flesh' that is
exhibited by day can be successfully withdrawn into its skeleton at
night.
It's only been two days, but I have not seen any feeder tentacles.
<much more time is needed for many corals to acclimate to new light and water quality... be patient>
At a
LFS, they have an
Elegance coral that must be fed by day, as it closes up at night.
<all such corals can be enticed to feed most anytime with the right food/attractant>
Is
the Trachyphyllia radiata
the same way, i.e.,
<nit by nature at all. All of these LPS feed on zooplankton by night>
I must feed it during the day while it is 'fleshy',
or will it normally display
feeding tentacles nocturnally, like my red open brain.
<only the feeding tentacles will effectively sting and draw organismal matter. Careful not to feed large chunks of food either... very finely minced is critical else the coral will draw it in but regurgitate it later and still starve>
I am anxious to make sure this specimen feeds on a good meal of clam or
shrimp.
<more variety in the diet too please: frozen Gammarus, mysids and Pacifica plankton for starters>
Also, the clerk who sold me the Trachyphyllia radiata said that he uses
a technique in his reef
tank that consists of taking freeze dried shrimp pellets and soaking
them in Selcon or Vita-Chem,
and feeding these to his corals.
<OK>
Once fully saturated, they sink quite
easily and stay in place quite
well. I just haven't had any luck getting the Trachyphyllia radiata to
take these or finely
chopped clams.
I was just wondering about your thoughts on vitamin soaked freeze dried
<whatever> as a food
adjunct to go along with finely chopped clams, shrimp, squid, etc.
FD foods are strange fare to offer and the risk of air trapping is mild but worth
mentioning. Soaking the food in Selcon is an excellent idea though. Rely on thawed frozen meats of marine origin>
Sincerely,
Mark Schwartz
<best regards, Anthony
PS: if it interests you... see the following article on Trach reproduction http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyreproart.htm>
Feeding Corals
Please be sure that you are feeding all of these LPS almost daily or
they starve very slowly over time
(and swell while panning for light in the meantime making you think they are
growing!).<<
I never used to do this, but after reading on the WWM site, I began feeding
about a month ago.
<excellent!>
Twice a week (probably should be more often,
<agreed>
but it's a pain :)),
<understood...hence the need and importance for upstream fishless refugia to
culture natural live plankton>
I mince up krill, and add some zooplankton bought at LFS (looks like caviar :)). Mix
in some tank water, and I'm ready to go.
<very fine>
However, the method is the problem: I generally do it just after the actinic
"dawn" lights come on,
<Doh! When the plankton feeding corals have begun to retract their modified
feeding tentacles from the night before!>
and I turn off the powerheads and pumps, except for the one coming from the sump
to keep the overflow going. I then take a turkey baster and try to
"baste" them; for example, place the food on the bubbles in the bubble
coral. I have no idea if it's working well or not, though.
<frozen food should be thawed, drained of pack juice and then put into a bit
of tank water so the slurry doesn't shock the coral. You will see then food
being stung by the tentacles of the tentacles are still out>
It seems like there's a lot of waste, and the little remaining current in the
tank seems like it sweeps food away before the corals (bubble, hammer,
frogspawn, polyps, mushrooms, etc.) have a chance to grab it. In
addition, the fish and shrimp/crab grab whatever they can.
<perhaps feeding a bit too much... corals don't need much... just
regularly>
Is there a better way to do this?
<yep... a refugium above your tank growing your own live pods naturally>
I looked through the FAQ and your article on feeding, but I couldn't find a
description of methodology (aside from the recommendation about a turkey baster,
which I'm trying to use). Thanks...Arthur
<Many variations on this theme. Best regards, Anthony>
Feeding coral
Thank you Anthony. Thanks for the help. I am a little new at the
zooplankton and hope that helps.
<it will help for certain.. it is THE natural food>
I do have a few questions about feeding the zooplankton. How often, how much? Or
the usual question I guess.
<varies by specimen and bio-load in tank (available nutrients from fish,
feeding, feces, etc... actual light quality, etc) and many actors. But, I'd say
3-5 times weekly minimum. A small feeding daily is ideal>
I had been feeding my home made clam etc mash to one and all using a turkey
baster, every 2 to 3 days....
<pretty good... but more often please. Again... small amounts are OK>
Now, with the zooplankton, I am trying different things. The
first of which has been a mixture of the zoo (a piece about the size of a small
marble),
<Helene... I apologize, but I have forgotten in the flurry of e-mail if I
referred you to this article before... But... on the WWM "latest article/FAQ
page
We have a bunch of pertinent reef articles there including one on "Feeding
reef invertebrates"... tells all. You really seem to have missed the
fundamentals here (prey size and composition). The food particles you are
feeding are too large (never more than 1/4")... and do pay attention to
polyp size and behavior... it is very telling about their dietary needs.>
with the phytoplankton, a little of the clam stuff (marble size again), some
vitamins...OK? or should it all be done separately.... Varied is more
important than separated or mixed.>
remember of course that I love all the little darlings but I do have a job!
<understood... that's why I keep suggesting that you simply feed a natural
zoo-substitute like whole prey gammarus, Pacifica plankton and/or Mysis. No
blending, mixing, supplementing, etc>
Also, should we take out the sponge in the overflow?
<I'm sorry dear... I don't recall what the sponge was for?>
We have the skimmer going all the time and carbon once in a while.
<I'd strongly recommend using carbon in small amounts changed frequently
24/7. Off and on use can severely effect coral health by shocking them suddenly
with increased water clarity (less yellowing agents) from fresh carbon after an
absence>
Someone said that the sponge will just catch all the zooplankton and ruin all
our efforts....
<possible yes>
(keep in mind 75 gal tank, with 6 line wrasse, Sailfin tang, blue damsel, and 3
Chromis, assorted corals, brain, pearl, mushrooms, a few others who's names I
have to get more familiar with (so much to learn so little time), the usual
clean up crew) Hard to see if the crew is cleaning up all the food when the
partials are so fine. Just not sure about the amounts. Perhaps step
up a little individual feeding for the pearl coral?
<indeed... target feeding is always better when time allows>
No Mariah Carey for the Pearl.......but maybe a little Lyle Lovett at feeding
time?
<Doh! What was Julia Roberts thinking?!?! If I had known her bar was set that
low I would have flown out to LA in a Frankenstein costume and married a
celebrity>
And what about soft lighting? Aside from the romance, do they prefer
to eat in the dark?
<they actually do (mentioned in the article above)... zooplankton feeders
naturally feed after the lights go out when plankton flares/comes out at
night>
As usual, each thought brings a new question.....The update for the coral book
is a great help. Thanks for sending it along.....Take it easy....Helene
<thank you for your eagerness to learn, my friend! Best regards, Anthony>
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