Re: Tiger Jawfish Keeps laying eggs, and unidentified coral (Favites color Q) -01/29/2008
How can I bring back the color of the Favites? The new mouths are very colorful is there any way I can bring the color back to the old mouths that are bleached?
<Just feed it well, be patient... the color should return in time.
Best,
Sara M.>
 

Question on Mushroom Coral and Candy Cane Coral... a Fungia, not a Corallimorph  11/21/07 Hi, <Hi Sammy!> I have this mushroom coral for 2 weeks now. <You have a Fungia, occasionally called a mushroom coral, not a Corallimorph, which is more typically called a mushroom coral. More here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fungiidae.htm > It seems to bloom only when the lights are totally off. <Yes, this is not atypical.> Here are photos of it with the light on, with only a flashlight, and lights totally out. <I see.> I currently have it half way down the water column with medium water flow. Should I move it down onto the sand <Yes, but be aware, these corals ARE MOBILE. Yes, that right, they are capable of moving, even capable of climbing! And their mucus can be quite toxic. So the Fungia need to be kept at a distance from other corals.> or in a shadow from the light? <In the light is fine.> Is this normal? <Yes.> I also have a candy cane that is doing the same thing. <This is normal. More here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidae.htm > When I bought this coral, it was quite bleached. It is not starting to get some green coloring. <Good.> I have seen candy cane corals opening in full light at the LFS. <Yes, some gradually accommodate.> But mine will only open when the lights are off. <Again, not unusual.> Is this related to that fact that it was bleached? <Not necessarily.> What is the best thing I can do for this coral? <Feed it at night when it is open, finely minced pieces of meaty foods.> Move it to a very low light location? <No.> Here are photos of the candy cane. <I see.> Flash shot with lights off. <Came out pretty well for just being illuminated with a flash light!> Thanks for your help. <Welcome! Mich> Sammy

Candycane skeleton disintegrating   8/22/06
Greeting from Nova Scotia
<Hello from San Diego, CA>
I have a small coral reef tank since 9 months that causes no troubles. One of mine Candycanes got now about 11 branches (had 7 or 8  
when we got it) and it's doing really good (dividing, long tentacles at night, bright colours, etc...). Two days ago however, I noticed  
that 2 of the branches are actually disintegrating. I am talking about the skeleton at the back of the polyp, and surprisingly enough, the  
polyps at the end of those branches are looking awesome and do not seems to be bothered at all. I am suspecting a lack of Calcium and/or  
the fact that my pH might be a bit too low (7.8/8.0)
<Could be more...>
so it drives the carbonate equilibrium of sea water toward the HCO3- side but I am not sure. A friend of mine (has a big coral reef tank) said that it might  
be the fact that my Candycane is submitted to water flow that are two high.
<Another factor>
I doubt it, but do you have any suggestions ?
Thanks so much in advance
Flavienne
<Mmm, the ultrastructure of the alkaline earth skeletal matrix is likely "missing" something... happens frequently with (your as stated) imbalance of calcium, magnesium and alkalinity... Do you have the "Kalk habit"? This is a common situation (soft skeletons) with this use... other methods of supplying ready alkaline earth, carbonate produce "harder" bio-matrix (calcium reactors, two part supplements...). Bob Fenner>
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Dalhousie University
Department of Oceanography

Candy Cane Coral...Turn Off Your Brights  - 05/19/2006
Hello WWMC !!
<Hello Esteban>
Always a pleasure to have someone to send an e-mail too that will guarantee a great response!
<Thank you.>
I have had a nice colony of about 15 1 inch pink Caulastrea (trumpet coral) <Caulastrea curvata>  about halfway vertical up my 125 gallon and half way horizontal in the tank.  I was using two 175 watt MH's on for 10 hours and two 6 foot blue HQI actinic bulbs on for 12 hours (1 hour on before the MH turn on and 1 hour after the MH shut off) for about 3 months.  The colony would come out beautifully - which after my reading I am guessing was because it was reaching out for more light.  Well, I switched the MH's to two 250 MH's running for 10 hours, and the same 6 foot bulbs running for 12 hours.  That was last month.  About two weeks ago, I noticed that the heads of the coral were not as expanded as before.  They will come totally out for an hour or so in the middle of the 10 hours, then close back up.  Their tentacles still come out when I am feeding the tank.  I'm worried that something might be wrong?  The water levels are still consistent with No ammonia, Nitrite, PH 8.5, nitrates around 40, calc 440, 1.025 SG.  I have not changed my usual dosing of iodide, C-balance, Reef Calc, Reef Plus, Reef Complete or Magnesium.  Should I consider moving the coral lower in the tank?  Is it getting too much light?
<I think they are going through a light adjusting period with the more intense lighting.  These corals only require moderate light and they generally do not open their feeding tentacles until the lights go out.  My Candy Cane <furcata> has never opened during the daylight photoperiod.  You may want to try putting them in the lower level of the tank to encourage opening.>
Thanks mucho!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

Candy cane coral growth, system 7/14/05
Hello to all, it's been awhile since I have posted a question, I have a large colony of candy cane coral about 3 years in my tank. The colony has about fifty heads and is growing well, however over the last month or so I have noticed an unusual growth pattern. Certain heads appear to be growing together where the tissue touches forming what looks like a bubble that eventually covers both heads. Nothing in the tank has changed except my upgrade to a Deltec calcium reactor.
<Ahh!>
  As of 7/11 my parameters were Alk 10.2, Cal 420, PH 8.0-8.2, Mag 1330, Temp 78-80. The coral is mid way up in
my tank with good flow and under (not directly) 250 watt HQI lighting.
I am concerned about this coral as it is the only coral that appears to have this issue. Is there anything I can do?
<Mmm, nothing you have to do...>
Could this be an indication that fragging is needed?
<Not needed...>
Thanks
Mike Winston
<You have a situation of "natural development" in your aquarium here... with this Faviid, conditions... you can break it up, move parts elsewhere, but the growth you describe so well is to be expected, given the conditions you're providing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Candy cane coral 7/14/05
Thanks for the reply, can you explain what you mean by "natural development"
Thanks again.
Mike
<Will try... but the adverb "natural" throws me... The coalescing growth you mention is a foregone conclusion... given aquarium lighting, the abundance of calcium, balance with magnesium, alkalinity in a stable, less-than (here's that word again) natural circulated environment. BobF>

Open brain coral, Shrinking open brain coral?
Hi guys, sorry to bother you, but the chatroom couldn't answer my question about a green open brain coral. 
<no bother at all, Anthony Calfo in your service>
This coral has been in my tank for about 2 months. It has been healthy and fully expanded at all times. Yesterday I looked at it and I could see its skeleton. It was totally deflated. It still has the green coloring, but you can see all the hard plates. 
<called septa>
What could happen in 8 hours? 
<little that wouldn't affect other coral/fish. You simply are observing the animal perhaps after it has passed a threshold... more below>
water parameters are normal- same as they have been since I got the brain. Nothing has been added or changed in/or to the tank. No other inhabitants have been affected fish, anemone, mushrooms starfish, polyps etc....) Today, I picked it up to see if something had damaged it from the bottom sits on sand bed) nothing. It didn't smell, so I assume its not dead. I replaced it in the same spot, and checked that the powerheads were not blowing on it. Do these corals take a break sometimes, or is something seriously wrong? Thanks Chantillylace
<although a cycle of polyp extension is quite normal with this and many LPS coral species... the problem of attrition is quite common with this animal in captivity. By some measures, this animal can only satisfy its daily need for food/carbon by 2/3 through the products of photosynthesis. That boils down to the animal needing to be fed almost daily and certainly weekly in captivity. If you haven't been feeding it much or at all, that is easily the culprit. Food should be meaty (zooplankton substitutes) and fine (1/4-1/2 inch... no chunks!). Do search the WWM site and message board archives for like posts on coral feeding. Kindly, Anthony Calfo>

I don't think the brain Coral was pooping.....
Hello Bob or Anthony,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
So, here's my problem, I've had my Faviid Pineapple brain for about 3 weeks now and I don't think its doing so well, just to refresh, I've got a 25 gal mini reef, LR LS, with a eclipse hood, with a 32w PC 1/2 daylight, 1/2 actinic, the brain is about 12in from the light, 
<needs to be higher in the long run under these modest lights... remember, the Blastomussa sp "Pineapple brains" are low light, but the Faviids tend to be quite high>>
with a bicolor blenny, and
Firefish goby, also have yellow polyps and green button polyps that are
doing terrific, and some mushrooms that are doing well too.
recent explosion of worms all over the place and a LOT of baby brittle
stars.
<very nice indeed>
So, the brain looks like its receding on one edge right now, and maybe on
one other, I noticed when I put it in the tank that during the first week it
looked like it was pooping, expelling some brown stringy stuff, but it
hasn't done that since, 
<either excrement or packets of zooxanthellae and since you having reported any loss of color (so-called "bleaching"), we are still betting on the poop>
and the mostly all of the polyps are still a bright
green, with brown ridges around them. Every night it still puts out a bunch
of feeding tentacles, and there is a filter feeder of some sorts living in
the middle of the colony. 
<many common creatures embedded... barnacles (shiny pulsing threads kicking out from crevice)>
Now, I did notice a spike in my nitrates from 0
to 5ppm, and I've been having a little trouble maintaining the alkalinity
since I put the coral in the tank, though the calcium is still at 450 ppm,
and ph is at 8.4, 
<very fine>
I'm having trouble keeping the alk at 3.5 meq, right now
when I just tested it was at 2.2, 
<yes, indeed low>
so, I'm going to add some more supper
buffer. I've been supplementing with Iodine and Strontium, but this coral
doesn't look as nice as when I got it 3 weeks ago. What could I be doing
wrong? 
<the lights aren't bright enough for starters... moving up will help some>
I stopped feeding Mysis shrimp everyday and cut it back to every
other day, 
<yikes... will die faster this way with weak illumination too... needs carbon from food not produced by symbiotic algae under weak light>
and I only fee like half a cube, not to much flake food either,
<flake food is inappropriate in this case>
and a changed the filter pad and stuff to reduce the nitrates,
Any suggestions?
<again... keep small frequent feeding and move within 6" of surface>
David
<best regards, Anthony>

Re: I don't think the brain Coral was pooping.....
Thanks Anthony!,
<very welcome, David my friend>
I'll try moving the brain up closer to the light, I'm definitely going to
have to get more LR for my tank, make the base higher. 
<LR is always a good investment in the tank>
I'll cut the cubes
in 1/3s, problem with my feeding, 
<remember...very fine/shredded food is necessary. Cube foods are often gelatin based and hold together in a large and hard to digest chunk.>
is that the brain doesn't put out the
feeder tentacles until about 1-2 hours after the light goes off, is there a
way to convince it to do this earlier? 
<yes, take the thawed pack juice from frozen meaty foods (that is generally discarded for fear of contributing to algae in the tank) and put a spoonful as an attractant into the aquarium prior to feeding. After 15 minutes or so, the feeding tentacles will usually come out. Shrimp type prey (cocktail, mysids, krill, etc) usually works best for this.>
or, should I just concentrating on
feeding twice a day, once for the fish and the yellow polyps, and then again
once the feeder tentacles come out?
how does that sound? Thanks!!! David.
PS. yea every night when the lights go out more and more things come
crawling out of their wholes, its rather amazing, I just can't get over all the brittle stars, is there a microscopic variety of them? 
<yes... and livebearing/fast breeding>
or are these
really baby's of the bigger variety? 
<nope...very unlikely>
I'll tell you the Firefish is enjoying
it, I caught him/her (that's why we named it Lola) trying to get down a leg yesterday!
<hehe...got to love it. Tell Lola to crunch all he/she wants... they'll make more <wink>. Kindly, Anthony>

Coral Questions
Hello, it's Ari again. All's well with the tank. Crabs are molting, fish are loving life and getting along. Corals are all coming along beautifully. Currently, my 25 gal. reef has the following: clean up crew, sally lightfoot, emerald crab, 2 starfish, strawberry Pseudochromis, yellow watchman goby, Banggai cardinal and flame angel. Corals are 1 green open brain, bubble, frogspawn, mushroom, trumpet. All levels are in check and water is crystal clear. All organisms thriving. My question is about the green open brain. Yesterday it did something that perhaps it does each day but this was the first I'd seen in 4 weeks of ownership. All of a sudden it got very thin -- you could basically see the skeleton and then it opened each of its three mouths and blew red waste into the water. At least I think it was waste. Is this normal behavior? Last night it was feeding
with all tentacles out and this morning it is great. I've just never seen this before. Is that how it excretes waste? I'm thinking that it must be b/c the starfish immediately came out from under the rocks and both of the were all over it. Any help would be great.
<You are right, it sounds like normal waste excretion.>
Also, could you tell me if I'm reaching my maximum fish load. I'd love a long-nosed Hawkfish.
<You are definitely pretty full already.>
Thanks, and GREAT BOOK. Ari
<You are quite welcome. I know Anthony and/or Bob will enjoy the compliment. -Steven Pro>

Closed Brain Bubble- 5/28/03
Thanks to Anthony, the "doughnut surgery" on my overgrown toadstools was a success, the patients are fine and children were born. [trimming the perimeter of Alcyoniids to control growth]
<excellent to hear, my friend! If you took any pictures, please share them with us>
My closed brain coral has done  well for two years with little growth, but it seems healthy with the green pockets  brightly colored glowing under the blue actinic. Lately, I see two bubbles growing along its bottom edges, one is over an inch, the other about 1/2 inch. They are somewhat transparent and have a green  spot on them. Should I be concerned or be doing anything?
<hard to say... could be a couple things... leaning towards bad: a change in lighting (usually an increase from cleaned bulbs/lenses or new lamps) can cause stress induced polyp bailout symptomatically similar to what you see. In other cases, it is caused by aggression from an aggressive neighbor nearby or touching>
There are two large polyp colonies on either side of the brain. Perhaps I should remove some of them.
<Hello! neighbor>
I have too many polyps in my system but haven't come up with a method to remove them other than pulling them off the rock one at a time with tweezers. Any suggestions?
<yep... diagonal pliers that bite the rock at their base and skin them off the substrate with a slight sliver of rock underneath. Much faster and less damaging (fear of the polyps exuding palytoxin that harms the coral or you (!) over time from you tugging on their heads with tweezers <G>>
I do have a green globe urchin which stays busy eating coralline algae, mostly off the back of the tank where it is thick. He has never been seen near the brain or other SPS corals.
<no worries... not suspected>
My water chemistry remains perfect with nitrates usually un-measurable and ORP between 300 and 350. Ca at 350 to 400.Temp.is chiller controlled at 78F. Even with R/O, D/I, ozone, macro algae refugium, less than 1/2 the recommended bio load, regular bulb replacement,  and weekly 10% water changes I still have more than my share of red and brown algae. I conclude that this is something that must be lived with. Do some people really live without it?
<possible... all about nutrient control. No nitrates does not mean no nutrients. Just none that you have a test kit for ;) The skimmer is the key. That and strong water flow (towards 20X)>
I'm off to Cozumel for a family diving trip with a new digital camera and case. Does Bob use the "white balance" settings?
<not sure... I thought he mostly used Tequila to get the best shots>
Howard in Wisconsin
<Antoine in space>