|
| |
|
FAQs about Faviid Coral
Disease/Health, Pests 1 Related Articles: Faviid Corals,
Related FAQs: Faviid
Disease 2, Faviids 1,
Faviids 2, Faviids 3,
Faviid Identification,
Faviid Behavior,
Faviid Compatibility,
Faviid Selection,
Faviid Systems,
Faviid Feeding,
Faviid Reproduction/Propagation,
Stony/True
Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral
System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral
Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior,
|

|
Trumpet Coral 5/16/05
I have a trumpet coral that is losing some polyps. It has always made its polyps bigger than the other two colonies close by, making large bubbles in between the new growth. Lately, the large bubbles have burst, the skin falls off, and it (the skin) is making new polyps. I have researched my books, but can't find anything about it. The coral was fed regularly, and the other two
Caulastrea colonies in the tank are doing fine, and look normal. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike
<Nothing at all to worry about... this is well reported in aquariums. You can strategically place new substrate so that the daughter polyps can land on it and attach and grow. Best Regards.
AdamC.>
Brain coral
Hi I have had my brain coral for like 1 week and it won't open up. It
has some bleach marks the fish store had it for a day under metal halides. I
see it swell up just a little bit like a few quarter size pieces swell up and
the base where the mouth is on swells up some. Here is a picture of it. I
also tried feeding it liquid food and Mysis.
<Sorry my friend but the picture
didn't make it. I sounds to me like the coral may have not been healthy to
start with. You didn't mention what kind of lighting you have. Try sending the
pic again and we should be able to provide a better answer. James (Salty Dog)>
LPS bleaching
Hi Guys,
<< Blundell today. >>
I have an LPS (some type of Favia) that had 'oozed' a quantity of white 'stuff'
over the surrounding rock during the night. When I washed away the ooze, the
polyps in that area had lost their color/flesh, and all that remains is skeleton
('damaged' area accounts for about 25% of coral). << Doesn't sound good. >> The
same thing occurred a few months back with this coral, but on just a single
polyp - didn't worry too much at the time as it seemed to recover OK, looked
healthy enough, and was opening fully each evening. Won't bore you with all my
water parameters but can't be too bad as I have quite a bit of stuff that I'm
told won't possibly survive in tanks that are doing great (Goniopora, anemones,
Gorgonians).
Can you please explain this phenomenon? << Not really. Could be caused by lack
of water motion, as many corals slime out to remove waste products. Increased
water motion can help them. More likely a light problem (in my mind). But if
all else is doing well, then I wouldn't guess that. Soooo, I guess I would do a
small water change and wait it out. >>
Cheers!
<< Blundell >>
HELP !! Candy Cane Coral and Parasites 4/29/05
I've recently ran into a problem with a Candy Cane Coral Frag. It has been
in my tank for a few weeks now and one of the polyps was damaged when I got
it. The rest looked healthy and after a few days in my tank began developing
good color and inflated polyps. The damaged polyp even seemed to be coming
back. However, about a week ago I noticed white "things" (I'll refer to them as
parasites from here on) all over the damaged polyp. I kept my eye on them
and they would come and go but always overwhelming the polyp.
<from the image these are clearly not parasites but instead are mesenterial
filaments from the coral being stressed>
So last night I decided to do a freshwater dip for 30 seconds, making sure to
match pH and Temp. The parasites seemed to shrivel up and I thought I got them.
However within minutes they came back in full force.
<because of the stress of the dip>
As I watched them seemingly come out of nowhere I noticed them begin to show up
on the healthy polyps too. I watched this happen very slowly, too slowly to see
these things moving. As far as I could tell they came from between the polyp and
the skeleton and in some cases looked as if they were pushing through the tissue
in the middle of the polyp. I documented the take over at the following site
(thumbnails are clickable to a larger version) The first pic in the series is
before the freshwater dip.
http://users.arczip.com/manfrotto/images/Photohost/candy%20cane.html
And this link will take you to the photograph I took of it this morning
http://users.arczip.com/manfrotto/images/Photohost/candy_morning.jpg
I've asked around and can't figure out what these are and I don't know what to
do next. I appreciate you opinions and comments very much on this. Sincerely
Michael
<do a keyword search on our website and beyond for "mesenterial filaments".
Continued good water quality and feeding/water flow will recover this coral in
time. Have patience my friend. Anthony>
HELP !! Candy Cane and Parasites II 8/31/04
Thanks Anthony for getting back with me. I'm glad to hear that these aren't
parasites, I thought I was in for a plague. I actually considered that these
may be a part of the coral but I always assumed, more or less, that any
defensive posture was expelled from the mouth not from the sides of the coral
< a common/understandable assumption>
and that they (the mesenterial filaments) would sway in the
water instead of clinging to the polyp. I've not messed with the coral since
that first FW dip and it has begun to come back again, although I did loose the
one already damaged polyp. Not too worried about it though since I know I can
work on growing this frag without concern. Thank you again for your help. By
the way, feel free to use any of those pics as helpful reference if you'd like.
Michael
<thanks kindly, my friend. Anthony>
Torch or Candy Cane coral
Hello Crew,
Another day in this excellent hobby. Another day to worry about things huh?
Quick question. Do Candy Cane corals recover from damage? I have a cluster
with 9 polyps but recently I was onvacation for 3 days and one of my
triggers damaged 3 of the polyps (1 now has tissue only in the middle - and
the other 2 were partially bitten). Will they grow the stony part back
(assuming they will not get damaged again? I made the mistake and left the
lights on every day and the trigger, which was left unfed, turned against
it. I have previously left my fish unfed for a weekend or so but with no
incident. I've had this coral for a year. I am adding iodine/calcium/trace
elements as per direction. I can see the tissue on the coral trying to
connect but I'm not sure if the stony part will grow back?
>>The coral should recover and the stony part may or may not grow back. The
important part is to make sure there is no further damage.
Are you testing for iodine and calcium and other trace elements? A good rule of
thumb is to only add what you can test for because otherwise you can easily be
overdosing or just wasting money. I am not a big fan of adding anything other
than a two part Ca solution regularly, and with regular water changes your trace
element levels should stay at the correct level.
Rich>>
Keep up the good job - I always consult your site when in doubt. It is an
excellent source for reference.
Have a nice day.
Dimitri
Losing His Brain? (Brain Coral In Trouble?)
Wet Web Crew,
<Scott F. here today!>
Hello all! Let me take a moment to suck up.... You rock! I've
learned a ton from your site, and always check there for any questions I
have. Great resource! Thank You!
<No need to "suck up!" We're all fish nerds, just like you! Well, maybe
a bit more weird, but nonetheless harmless!>
This is a coral I recently ordered. (I've included a current picture
along with the one from the site I bought it from ... I'm guessing you
can tell which is which?)
<Doh! I couldn't open the attachment, so I'm not able to make an ID for
you here...Grr>
Prior to this, I've purchased all my coral from local shops, but I
haven't been able to locate a maze brain, so I gave mail order a
shot. What came was, well, less than ideal. Is there anything I should
do to try and nurse this coral back to health?
<Unfortunately, common names for coral are not much help, as many
different coral species can go by this moniker. Let's assume that we're
looking at a Platygyra or Leptoria, the two most commonly found species
to carry this "Maze Coral" name...Well, Leptoria is extremely rare, but
misidentification is not uncommon! Anyways, Platygyra can bleach pretty
easily if it is injured, or if conditions are not to its liking. Often,
they are collected intact, which makes the chances for survival and
growth much higher. If the specimen has been damaged by hammering it off
of the reef, the coral will have a much tougher time adapting to
captivity, and resisting disease. My best advice for an injured Faviid
coral would be to provide clean water, moderate to strong water flow,
and bright lighting (once the colony has acclimated to it, of course).
Keep the coral away from "pickers", like Centropyge angelfish, and do
offer fine zooplankton foods, such as Cyclop-eeze or Liquid Life "Coral
Plankton". If you see necrotic tissue, be sure to remove it at once. Try
not to disturb the damaged coral excessively, if possible.>
Can you estimate it's likelihood of survival?
<If you can stop any advance of necrosis or bleaching tissue, it's
chances of recovery are probably pretty good...Only time will tell>
You'll note the attached text, also. It includes a description of the
coral's condition. I have yet to hear back from the shop. Mickey
<Sorry again that I couldn't get the pic, Mickey. I hope this general
information was of some use, though. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
|
|
 |
New Open Brain Health - 10/27/03
I recently purchased my first live coral - a brain coral. <Very
well> It's about 3" long and has pretty fluorescent green
coloring. It is very hard and relatively flat. Since I have purchased
it (only about 10 days ago), I have seen pictures of other brain corals that are
"fluffy" and appear to have fluid inside them. <Yes. Fascinating to
watch> My coral has not changed in ANY way since I purchased
it. Is it dead? <Likely not. Is the color bleached in any way? is
the white of the skeleton showing through? Should be placed low in the tank
preferably on a sandy bottom with some room for expansion> Was it dead when I
purchased it? <I don't know was it? It is not necessarily dead because it is
not expanding> What should I be looking for? <Tentacles
extracted around the inner rim (feeding) and expansion of polyp> I tried
looking for diseases on the net & saw bleaching etc. <On our site???? We
have more than that!!> I just need to know if it's young &
that is why it looks that way and that I should be patient or it's dead. <Be
very patient!! Don't move it. It could still be in an adjusting phase. Read all
that you can about Trachyphylliidae here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphlliidae.htm>
Please advise. <Knowledge is have the battle. Read through the various FAQs
and articles for Trachyphyllia -Paul> Thanks so much for
your time. JoAnne
Does my Brain (coral) need help?
Hi Crew ! You've been great help in the past so lets try it
again.
<Glad you have benefited!>
Presently have a 46 gallon bow front with roughly 90 lbs of live rock and
assorted healthy fish. Tunicate and sponge growth here and there. I would think
this is a sign of a healthy tank also. Lighting consists of one Coralife 10k and
one Hagen Marine-Glo actinic staying on 9 hours per day. Good filtration and
moderate skimmer. I am a believer in Tom Walsh's theory that you don't have to
have a complex system to be successful in this hobby just good husbandry.
<All sounds reasonable. I do also subscribe to the KISS
principal... Keep It Simple Stupid!>
Now to my question. I was given a Green Closed Brain Coral two weeks ago . I
have never kept corals before but have read that the Favia? was a good beginner.
I have noticed that in the last week it is showing some brownish coloring around
some of the edges.
<A picture is worth a thousand words here.... This is most likely
"browning out" due to differences in (likely less) light in your tank. If
the tissue looks in tact, but is just changing color, I would not worry.>
I have always used SeaChem Reef Calcium and Reef Complete but have been out
since this coral was added. I dosed the tank last night and also added Reef
Plus. What do you think will happen now. Will he recover from this? Will the
supplements get him on the rebound? His feeder tentacles are out when the lights
come on however. Thanks for your help. Randy <The only way to be
sure what supplements are necessary is to test for those elements. My
suggestion is to supplement only calcium and alkalinity (should be checked
often), and nothing else unless you are testing for it. In most
cases, regular partial water changes will supply enough of everything else. Over
use of supplements can easily lead to overdose. Occasional feedings
of finely chopped meaty seafoods will also be of great benefit. Best
Regards. Adam>
Caulastrea decline from shipping stress - 2/20/04
howdy, yesterday I receive my candy cane coral I ordered, only to find it
appears the skeleton is protruding from some/most of the polyps <from the
picture it looks a bit stressed. Acclimate, keep low in the tank and keep up the
water quality. Do you feed? Try to target feed>... can u please tell me this
is normal and it will grow back? <Likely will grow back in time with
maintenance done on your part.>
P.S the polyps have not inflated yet.. is it doomed? <Always a possibility
but these are fairly hardy corals. Place at the bottom of your tank to help it
acclimate to your lighting. Also, let the company know immediately of the issue
upon arrival. Good luck to you and your coral. ~Paul>
P.S.S my camera sucks ;)
Brain Polyp Bailout - stress induced 2/8/04
Dear Anthony, See photos attached of a massive polyp bailout and a new
brain coral starting life from bailout. I get a bailout from
the big coral about every three weeks or so and several have "taken
root" on nearby rocks. Can I continue to make more small brain corals
in this way?. Any way to make a "bed" for the bailout to plant
in? Howard
<polyp bailout is usually a stress induced reproductive strategy and
weakly successful in aquaria in the long term (the donor will likely die
in time if not rescued). Looking at the pictures you've provided... the
source of stress is clearly the encroaching zoanthids which are
(chemically) fiercely aggressive. Your brain "knows" its days
are numbered... likely to be killed within a year if the zoanthids
continue. As to the polyps themselves... yes, they can be saved/viable but
are not inclined to be fast growing or particularly successful sitting in
the same tank/water that caused the polyp bailout of the parent. Its a
very good rule of thumb to maintain a minimum of 10" between all
corals... and be sure to use carbon or some other chemical filtration
regularly (changed weekly in small portions). Large weekly water changes
and zone use too will help temper allelopathy causing these
issues/bailout. Best of luck! Anthony> |
 |
 |
Gall crab 1/13/04
I have what I believe to be a female gall crab living in my closed brain
coral. Should she be removed? Thanks much! Jeff Wagner
<they are rarely a problem my friend... the coral will usually grow around
them. If your coral exhibits normal polyp cycles and feeding... no worries.
Anthony>
Green open brain necrosis 4/14/04
First off: this site is incredible! You guys are one of the best
resources I've found yet (still new to the hobby though).
<Thanks for the kind words!>
Anyway regarding my problem, I searched & browsed the site/FAQs, and got
some good info, then tried the public forum, but no responses, so here goes. In
a nutshell, after being out of town for 5 days my open green brain is suffering
serious tissue necrosis which was not at all evident before I left.
<You will find that one of the amendments to Murphy's Law states that these
things will always happen when you are out of town.!<g>>
This is a new 37 gal tank (2 months old), but the brain was doing quite well
before I left town (already in the tank for 1 month, bad advice from my LFS). When
I returned from my trip everything in the tank looked fine except for the brain,
which showed a small area of what looked like irritation (bright green spot,
slightly dented-in looking). Today it's blossomed into full-blown tissue
necrosis across one lobe. I lifted up the brain (from the base, using a glove)
and upon closer inspection the affected polyp tissue looks like it has some tiny
holes bored into it--like
termite holes in wood.
<Open brains are a bit more sensitive to water quality than most folks
consider them to be. They are also one of the corals most commonly
picked on by fish. Their fleshy inflated tissue can be easily
damaged.>
Here are some possible culprits/factors:
(1) a few days before I left town I added new cleanup crew members, an
assortment of snails (Astrea, Nassarius, Ceriths) and some small blue leg
hermits. Could these be doing damage? I've seen them waltzing through the button
polyp but never anywhere near the brain. (The button polyp and finger leather
are a good 18" away from the open brain, which is on the sand with decent
light exposure and moderate water flow (no direct laminar flow)).
<It is possible that the hermits damaged the brain, but unlikely. Any
fish that may be nipping?>
(2) the inverts had been added to battle green hair algae which started blooming
a week or so prior. I set up the tank with dechlorinated tap water but have been
using RO/DI for about 3 weeks now. So there are probably still some phosphates
in the tank. I just read a reference to boring green algae on your site but
didn't find much info on it. I'm guessing this is unrelated to run-of-the-mill
nuisance algae but that's a newbies guess. The tiny holes got me thinking.
<Such boring algae are quite rare, but conspicuous when encountered. The
real issue is that when exposed skeleton becomes colonized with algae, the
coral has a hard time overgrowing it.>
(3) While I was gone the house sitter only topped off water with my RO/DI
supply, but I think the weather was hot: when I got back the water level was low
and specific gravity had shot up to like 1.027 from the normal 1.024. This would
have been for 2-3 days at the most.
<No concern over the rise in SG.>
(I performed a 10% water change and brought the salinity down to 1.025, then
1.024 the next day. All other tests were not that
remarkable--ammonia, nitrite, nitrate were zero, pH 8.3, temp. 77,
alkalinity 3.5 meq/L).
<Keep in mind that drops in salinity are far more stressful to inverts than
rises. Water quality sounds fine.>
(4) I have never fed the coral in the 4 weeks I've had it (more bad advice from
the LFS). I just fed the poor guy some minced fresh shrimp per guidelines found
on your site.
<Great! Pieces up to the size of a marble or so should be greedily
accepted.>
(5) A week or so ago I moved the coral to the corner of the tank, as in its
previous location it was growing upwards into a rock overhang and I was afraid
it would get an abrasion. The new location should be getting plenty of light but
it's possible water flow is weaker in that area. Even so, would that cause
tissue necrosis?
<Perhaps you are seeing the effects of previous damage? Open
brains prefer moderate current, but are very tolerant of fairly low current.>
Thanks for any advice. I have pics if that would help but it basically looks
like the green brain 2/3 of the way down this page, but worse:
www.wetwebmedia.com/corldisfaq2.htm Your fan, John MB
<My hunch is that there was some damage, and the coral was not able to cope
because of the immaturity of your tank. There are no measurable
parameters that suggest maturity, and it is a very non-specific term. Suffice
it to say that corals do better in systems that are at least a few months old. Best
regards. Adam>
Candy Cane and Anthelia questions 8/1/04
Hello. I've spent many hours on your site and I must say it's a great
resource. <Great to hear!>
I have a question about a stony coral I have (candy cane). Last night I
put a flashlight on it and noticed that between the stony columns is
growing a yellow kind of "fuzz" or something. I am not sure if it is a
disease or algae or what. Otherwise the coral looks healthy. Inflated
during the day and tentacles out at night for feeding. You can only see
this stuff at night when it's slightly deflated. I have attached an
image so you can see what I
mean. We've had the coral for about 3 months now with no problems.
<This is nothing at all to worry about. It is an encrusting sponge and
a very common occurrence between the branches of stony corals.>
Several other corals in the tank are soft ones. This is the only hard
coral. The tank is a 45 gal less than 6 months old, all readings are
zero, calcium is at 440 and pH is at 8.2 (we originally started it from
cycled water from our aquarist friend back then). I reduced the picture
and have a larger one if needed.
On another note, the anthelia has been struggling for days. I suspect
it's the pH but I am not sure since it's not excessively low. Would it
help to raise it and by how much? Also, there is a "life-form" attached
near by and I wonder if this is affecting it. At first I thought it was
a new colony of anthelia but now I
wonder if it is an unrelated different coral. A picture of this is
attached as well. Thank you for your help. Daphne <A pH of 8.2 is
perfect. What about alkalinity? IMO, Alkalinity is probably the most
important parameter to test regularly in a reef tank. The coral in the
picture is actually Clavularia. There are several things growing within
and around it: Valonia (bubble algae), hair algae, some Caulerpa and
some kind of mushroom anemone. Any or all of these things could be
affecting the Clavularia. I would try to move the mushroom, test
alkalinity and correct with a good quality buffer if necessary and be
sure that you have plenty of water movement. This is a tough coral that
should recover easily under good conditions. Best Regards. AdamC.>
|
 |
 |
Moon Coral
Anthony,
<cheers>
I purchased Favia (moon coral) a week ago and have started to notice the lower edges of it starting to turn brown.
<many possible reasons for this... are your nitrates a bit high by chance?>
It is placed on top of the LR about 10" from the surface. Lighting is 3; 250 watt MH with 6500
Iwasaki bulbs, and 2 160 watt VHO, located 10" above the tank. I have Sprung's book on Coral and used his
reference chart to locate the coral.
<although I generally do not recommend 250 or 400 watt halides to most aquarists
unless they are keeping SPS or clams, Faviids are generally high light creatures and I'm comfortable with your choice of placement>
Flow is directed almost directly across it.
<laminar flow can be stressful... do adjust to surge or random turbulent if possible, else watch for stress or tissue erosion>
All my other corals are fine, water quality and temp are text book.
<what book? :p>
Thanks, Mark Johnson
<my preliminary opinion is that it is an inevitable but acceptable acclimation to the new lighting scheme. The fact that this color change is not a paling shift indicates a possibly favorable (health of coral, not necessarily
aesthetically pleasing) acclimation to me. Best regards, Anthony>
Dying or propagating trumpet?
Okay Anthony, I drew my trumpet colony and the "fallen soldier", (and had fun doing it I may add)! Hope you can diagnose it now.
<actually a big help! And a good example of the importance of us all trying to use scientific names whenever possible. What you have is not a coral and arguably not a trumpet "coral" according to common name usage (not your fault.. you repeated as told <G>). What you have is a
Zoantharian... most likely Palythoa. Not a true coral but fairly called a reef invertebrate. Also known as button polyps, this creature is incredibly hardy! Often remains closed if it gets too much light or not enough food. The bud that fell off most likely was propagating indeed. My previous comments were in regards to the large polyped stony coral also known as trumpet or candy coral, Caulastrea furcata. My advice is to relax... these corals can remain closed polyped for some time! Do not move the colony around in different positions... this will delay the polyps opening. Do be sure to offer a tiny bit of food weekly or more if there is little or no fish
feeding in the tank. If the fallen polyps attached to the new rock quickly then it is a very good sign. Keep your eyes open for a fine brown diatom sheen or any necrotic infections. Keep moderate random turbulent water flow over it. Scrub any algae of debris off with a soft bristled tooth brush in a
separate bowl of seawater outside of the aquarium (discard water afterwards).>
Thank you, Pam
PS Hope you can manipulate the file, it's rather large. It opens with Microsoft's Photo Editor.
<best regards, Anthony> |
|

|
Dying or propagating trumpet?
I hope you guys are well paid to answer all these letters, because here comes another!
<ahhh... we are all very well paid. Great riches in friendship>
What does it mean when one of the "trumpets and neck portion" of a trumpet coral, falls off?
<I assume that you are talking about the colored flesh... not the actual hard skeleton?>
Yes, I AM still obsessing over my trumpet colony. It's going through so many changes. One of the guys at my LFS said it was trying to spread. It looks to me, like it's trying to die!
<very simple... if it degraded/rotted/dissolved then yes it is infected and dying. If the
polyp simply bailed whole but undisturbed and is now blowing around the aquarium like a bowling ball... then the coral polyp ejected out of stress which is a sort of desperate form of reproduction. Send a picture and I will confirm>
Thank you, Pam
<kindly, Anthony>
RE: trumpet corals still in trouble!
I had a nice long letter for you when my monitor went black and my PC crashed.
Ahhhh!
<Ughhh! I so hate when that happens!>
But the jest of the letter was this. I bought Hagen's Ph Wide Range tester.
<ahhh... yes... there is a big part of the problem right there.. a gross and barely accurate range on the high end>
Difficult to read. The color chart is all off as far as I can see. I wasn't sure if I was seeing 8.5 or 9.0.
<wow...yes, agreed. Please don't put much stock in a kit like that>
At any rate, I'll go out and buy the original Aqua Lab tester for ph and BC. From your tone, it sounded like my ph could never get that high with a buffer, is this so? <VERY unlikely! Most buffers and bicarbonate and as such are difficult to get much over 8.3 Further more, if it were so... 9.0 is so stressful I would expect you to be telling us of so many more problems if it were true>
I added 1 spoon to every gallon, I have 55 g but put in 45 spoons. What do you think about that?
<HOLY cow!!!! Is that what the directions said?!?>
Too much too soon?
<understatement of the week!>
I'll go to my LFS tomorrow and spend more money, (originally, I was trying to save money, hence the Hagen product, seven bucks!)
<hmmm... at any rate... a single large water change (or more) is necessary to dilute the problem else you can expect problems with calcium later as well>
Oh, and some good news, (please tell me I did good!). I ordered a Kent Nautilus Skimmer and MAG7 PUMP at Champion Lighting & Supply, I hope this is a good product.
<hmmm... looking through our archives, you would/will notice we strongly recommend Aqua C and Euroreef
skimmers a lot. There are strong reasons for it. More than a few decades of experience between us here on the crew. It is not to say that there aren't other good skimmers out there... but in the big picture of getting bang for your buck (reliability, ease of maintenance. longevity, reputation,
customer service, etc) there is a definite reason for such mention. Do consider that this site is free and at least in the case of the Euroreef skimmers, we do not even take their advertising dollars.
That's honest advice. As far as your Mag pump... I like them very fine. They do give you what you pay for.>
www.ChampionLighting.com
<I like the product selection at this company... very diverse for reef aquarists... quite frankly, I think they would benefit greatly by advertising on this site... I wish they would. I believe our traffic would appreciate and support their products>
Thanks for listening and Happy Memorial Day!! Pam
<thank you, dear.. best regards. Anthony>
Trumpet corals still in trouble!
Hello guys,
<cheers, love. Anthony Calfo in your service>
still having problems with my Trumpet Coral. My Ph I have been working on if you can possibly recall out of the 100's of emails a day. I bought a buffering agent by Seachem. I added according to the directions. The Ph shot up to 9.0 !
<that honestly seems very unlikely. I would seriously doubt the accuracy of your test kit. Please do confirm against two others (hopefully one digital... local LFS, aquarium
society friend, etc)>
The coral looks terrible. Closed. I thought they were coming around for a few days because they began to open, but today, no good. I guess this is the end hmmm? Should I take them out soon before they pollute and raise my nitrates?
<OMG no!!! Irritated coral can remain closed for weeks...even months! If they were dying you would see a sudden necrotic foul mess. If your pH really is/was 9.0 or higher you would se severe reactions from many/most other corals, fish and/or inverts. The trumpet is simply unhappy... the real problem is your water chemistry and test equipment possibly... not the coral!>
The camel shrimp are walking all over them, I guess looking for a meal. I don't want to take them out too soon,..... what do you suggest?
<pH problems (skewed Alk from buffer or pH from Kalk, etc are EASILY corrected with a couple of large water changes...simple dilution to get you back to bar. Your immediate solution is single large water change or two away (premixed, aerated, salinity, ph adjusted if necessary). Aquarists can even do 100% water changes without a single mortality if fast and prepared well enough if it is warranted. Really, my friend... do
relax, take stock and reassess the problem and attempts at solutions you have made. Let's figure this out>
Thanks Pam
<best regards, Anthony>
| |
|