Favia-Bleaching-Lighting? -03/28/08
I recently got a Favia specimen. It is about the size of my fist, and is for the most part a powder blue. It has long brown splotches around the ridges, but I am sure that this is the natural coloring. Though especially around the top and not around the sides of the coral it is beginning to become pale around the ridges, but not in the mouths. They are still very brilliant. I think that lighting is the issue. Is it possible for a Favia to have to much light?
<Yes and no. They can acclimate to just about any level of lighting (even intense lighting). However, this takes time. It sounds like the coral is starting to bleach in response to a sudden change in lighting.>
How much is good. The coral was about a 10 inches form the surface where there are two VHO bulbs. One is actinic and the other is 50/50.
<What was it under previously, when you purchased it?>
I recently moved it to the sandbed, which is about 18 inches from the surface.
Was this right? What should I do? Are there anymore details I should include?
<Again, if it's a lighting issue, it's an issue of *change* in lighting. You should find out what kind of lighting the coral was under previously, then try and place the coral under similar lighting before slowing moving it to where you want it. If it continues to bleach, be sure to feed it well. Bleaching is not a death sentence. Corals "often" bleach out, then recover. Please see here for some additional info on Faviid health:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviiddisfaqs.htm
Best,
Sara M.>

Trumpet Coral... env. hlth... need useful data   11/26/07
OK. I think I've made a mistake, but want to check and see whether it's salvageable. I've got a trumpet coral I've had for a few years. I had a tank leak and did an emergency switch to a larger tank. When I moved everything, I figured this was a good time to upgrade a lot of stuff and bought a MUCH better light (outer orbit T5HO).
<Mmm, what sort and from what previously?>
Initially, everything responded well to increased light. This was in part, I think, due to the fact that there was a film on top the water until I finally got the sump/overflow set up. I've never seen the trumpet coral look so good. NOW, however, the trumpet coral looks like it might be burned. I have two pieces. One up higher, and one in the middle of the rock wall. The one at the top has a red mark or two on it and is behaving strangely (tentacles out in the middle of the day kind of strange) but never fully opening to what it can be. The one in the middle has gone white almost. Not dead and still looking fine at night, but white. I've moved them both to the bottom of the tank after reading a few things on your forums (which have saved me more times than I can count). I'm wondering whether that's enough and what steps I should take if any that I haven't already. At least I know now that start the corals arriving this week at the bottom till they adjust to the light ;)
<Mmm... could you send along some close up images? And list your other life, particularly photosynthetic sessile invert.s... Bob Fenner>

Re: BTA & Candy Cane Coral Concerns – 09/14/07
<Hello again Jackie.>
Thanks for the valued information.
<You're welcome.>
Sorry to hear about your Cleaner Shrimp.
<Thanks. Was quite a while ago now.>
I have another question regarding the Candy Cane coral.
<OK.>
Do they, throughout the course of a day, change from soft to rock hard?
<They can change, though rock hard is generally not happy.>
Or is that a sign that all is not well?
<Prolonged periods of rock hard is not a good sign... consult a doctor if lasting 4 hours or more... oh wait... that's something else... heehee!>
Also, how important is Strontium for LPS corals?
<If you do regular water changes you should be fine. You may want to check your calcium levels.>
Again, thanks for all the good advise your team provides.
<On behalf of Bob and the crew, you're welcome! Mich>
Jackie

Healing Favites    7/25/07
To the truly amazing staff at WetWeb,
<I'm good with this. There are some wonderful people here!>
I am new to marine systems,
<Welcome o the briny world CJ!>
with a year old 60 gallon and a copy of Mr. Fenner's book- which drove me to become the marine junkie I now am.
<Mmm, yep, been there.>
I follow Mr. Fenner's advice religiously,
<You are wise. Thought the website is more up to date than the book with some things.>
and what I cannot afford, I make.
<You are lucky to have these skills.>
My tank somehow became a refuge for rescued fish and coral. Sadly, I usually receive neglected animals that this site recommends not be collected or sold.
<This is sad.>
Although constantly daunted, I am quite proud of my unexpected successes. (Those at WetWeb should be too, as this site is my largest reference!)
<Good to hear!>
The issue: I recently acquired a Favites in terrible condition. It is eating now, and plumping up a bit- no problems there.
<Very good!>
However, when I received the Favites, it had receded to approximately one third (flesh covering skeleton), perhaps due to lighting or feeding. (I have many pictures, if you need one).
<Pictures usually help.>
It must have been this way for some time,
<Likely so.>
as the exposed skeleton is covered in coralline, and along the periphery of flesh are a handful of what I thought where small feather dusters. Upon concentrated inspection, these dusters' appear to be some type of tubeworms that secrete a 'slime web', and have no head.
<Sounds like small worm snails of the family Vermetidae, generally harmless filter feeder casting out their mucus net to collect food.>
I would like to know if I should attempt to remove the worms, and if they are harming the Favites (or inhibiting it's healing).
<Generally no, these should create a problem, not unless there is a significant amount of mucus that the coral had difficulty removing.>
I believe this poor guy might come back, if helped along.
<Hopefully!>
I appreciate any advice that can be given, and thank you so much for taking the time with this, and every question. --CJ
<Thank you for your kind words. You are most welcome! Mich>

Candy Cane...Nursing Caulastrea Back to Health – 6/19/07
Hi Crew,
<Hello, Mich with you tonight.>
I just picked up a candy cane that I volunteered to nurse back to health.
<OK.>
I have some candy canes and each head is nice and plump. They are brown or tan outside and green or teal inside.
<OK.>
The one I just got is tan and green but it is in bad shape. Some heads are just skeletons but many have some brown but very little. The skeletons are poking through the 'meat'. It
looks very different than mine in that mine are like a tree with branches upward. This one is almost round. It does have a main stem but the heads are going out in all directions and it is actually a ball shape. This makes it impossible to get light to all heads. I can not figure out how it grew this way. When you look at it it just looks like a ball of candy cane
heads. Any suggestions?
<Yes. You will likely need to hand feed this coral to bring it back. I would try Mysis shrimp soaked in Selcon. Depending on how badly this coral has shrunk you may even need to cut up the Mysis into very tiny pieces. This can be a very tedious job, typically requiring tweezers, keeping thieves away (i.e. shrimp, crabs, fish) and stopping all water movement in the tank for an hour or more so the polyp has a chance to engulf its food. When done daily or multiple time a day, you often get quick results. Lighting alone probably won't bring this coral back, regardless of its shape. That being said you could always frag it. It is quite simple to do, particularly with corals of this type. It is often easy enough to break it by hand if there is enough room to get your fingers in there. But right now, I think I would keep this coral in one piece and move it to a place where you will be able to access it easily and keep food in it's mouths.>
Thanks
<Welcome! Mich>

Re: Candy Cane...Nursing Caulastrea Back to Health  7/28/07
Hi Crew,
<Greetings Mich here again.>
Regarding my sick Caulastrea. It has improved a little but I have not been able to feed it. I add Selcon to the water but since I have not seen it send out any tentacles I have not been able to feed it.
<You do not and should not wait for feeder tentacles. You need to place very tiny pieces (size of a pin head) of food near/in its mouth. (The mouth is the small circle in the center of the polyp.) Cyclop-eeze works well or very tiny pieces of mysis. It may take several tries and a lot of patience before the mouth swells and opens, but with time it should. If these Caulastrea were in as poor condition as you say you may not see tentacles for quite some time.>
I am practicing the feeding by feeding my others that have their tentacles extended which is something I never tried before. Is there any way to get it to extend its tentacles.
<Get the food into its mouth first. This is what's most important. Right now you are giving a baby a spoon and food and wonder why the infant isn't feeding itself.... Neither the baby nor this coral has the capacity at this point. You need to put the food near/in the coral's mouth.>
I check most nights after the lights are out and so far no luck. My blue Caulastrea seems to have a few heads with the tentacles out even after the lights come on in the morning. But the sick one is not cooperating.
<It's not cooperating because it's incapacitated. Tiny foods, near the mouth... as described below... tweezers, no circulation, multiple times a day. You may want to position these corals so the mouth is facing upward so you don't have to fight gravity as well.>
Thanks
<Welcome! Mich>

New Brain Question. Symphyllia radians troubles  – 05/08/07
I recently purchased a new brain coral, Symphyllia radians.
<Cool.>
I seem to be having a problem with the coral now.
<Let’s see what we can do about that!>
The tank is a 92g with ample live rock/live sand. Water parameters are: temp 78-79, pH 8.2, Ca 400, Alk 10.5, nitrates 0, nitrites 0, phosphates 0, Salinity 1.025.
<Acceptable.>
The coral seems to have some stringy substance around the edge of the coral and near the mouths. It reminds me of a mushroom that is expelling its guts.
<Could be expelling zooxanthellae. Are there any noxious soft corals or anemones in the tank, and if so how close? Also what type of lighting so you have and in what relation is the animal to it? Do you know the lighting if the system from which the tank came? Where in the tank is the animal placed and what is the flow like in that area? Sorry for all the questions, but they will help me to help you better.>
I have only had this coral for about 6 days, so I am guessing that it is stress.
<Surely a factor…is a traumatic change for naturally immobile (for the most part) creatures.>
I acclimated for around 1:45 by drip acclimation. Can you advise me how I can help the coral?
<Answer my questions above and I will able to so.>
I really want to get the coral in great shape and feeding again. Thanks for your help.
<Brian, I look forward to your next e-mail.>
Brian
<Adam J.>

Re: Symphyllia radians troubles  – 05/08/07
Thank you for you quick reply.
<No problem.>
Below is the original message that I sent you. My tank is a 92g corner tank. The only noxious corals that I can think of would be GSP or leathers I have, but both of those corals are pretty distant in the tank.
<Still could be affecting the denizen in question, especially if the brain is "down-wind." I'd run some carbon to be on the safe side.>
The tank is mainly an LPS/Softy tank. Inhabitants include: mushrooms, zoas, Kenya trees, GSP, hammer coral, another brain, clams, leather trees, devils hand leather, finger leather, sea pen (this sea pen has been in home aquaria for several years, and I am very proud of it),
<Several years huh? That is something to write home about considering most don't survive shipping. Though you do have a lot of different cnidaria life in the tank, I would not be surprised if they were negatively/chemically interacting.>
and frogspawn. I have the GSP isolated in the upper, rear left corner of the tank. The brain I isolated in the upper rear, right of the tank.
<In the rockwork? Is it arranged in such a manor that it can expand without the tissue coming into contact with the rockwork. The "scraping" of tissue could cause tissue retention. Just FYI.>
These Lighting is 5x39W T5s (it is an Aquactinics fixture); the coral came from 400W 20K MH lighting at Reefermadness.
<So it may be still be adjusting.......>
The way my lighting is setup, the back part of the tank is somewhat of a shaded area since I am lighting a corner tank with a strip of light. I have this coral placed in a low flow area; the tank has 3 Tunze 6025s (660 gph/each), 1 Tunze 6045 ( (1189 gph), and the return pump for flow. Should I try placing the coral in a different spot on the sand bed? I initially had it on the sand bed, but then I saw the stringy stuff and moved it to a low flow/low light area higher up (I know that doesn't sound right, but as I said before the back of my tank is low light).
<If you can find enough room on the sand bed I would prefer it there for the reasons I mentioned above. However, I fear that to many movements in such a short-time period might prove more detrimental. Unless the animal exhibits any obvious negative behavior (bleaching. etc. .) I would leave it where it is for now, as long as it is positioned in a manor where it will not "scrape" the rockwork.>
Thank you for your help with this.
<Anytime.>
Brian
<AJ.>

Re: What is wrong with my brain coral?    1/21/07
Hello,
I just wanted to ask a couple more questions, you had stated that allelopathy was very likely I was wondering if this was a possibility even though the closest other coral to him are the white star polyps at ~8-10"?
<Yes... chemical can be as profound as physical contact>
And yes I do know I should have waited until my parameters were in check before adding him to the tank, it was my fiancι's impulse buy (never again with something as delicate as coral/fish).  Also, this is only occurring on 1/4 of his surface area at most.
I have read that I should probably put that part of him in a darker area (to promote healing , if possible) as it currently gets pretty direct light.  Yes it is in a similar location a to where it was at the LFS, possibly a couple of inches closer to the light in my system.  It doesn't really look like jelly disease.
Also, when he opens up at night, more mesentery fibers become present, as the day progresses, with current etc, they blow off.
<This is a natural behavior, time frame>
  I'm not sure if that is relevant but figured I would include it.  Thanks again for all your assistance through my idiotic decisions.
-Jason
<Patience and observation are your best tools here. Bob Fenner> 

Strange encrusting coral... actually strange lack of info. query   11/6/06
Hi, Newbie here. Not real good at maneuvering the site yet, but I checked everywhere I thought appropriate, both on WWM and internet, and could not find an answer. I will not bore you with complete tank set up for ID question. I have a 4 month old Fox Coral,
<The Euphylliid?>
that started a few weeks ago recessing. It gets fed regular and seemed very happy with its tank location Med flow and high in the tank under 40 watt PC. I looked closely and found what appeared to be a brown flatworm. I think, I have finally located enough photos to say this is some sort of Cyphastrea ocellina or crusty star coral.
<?... the Faviid?>
It is tan in color. I can find photos, but no information on this thing. It seems to be growing very fast. Does my conditions seem favorable for such coral?
<Which? Actually your lighting is a bit low for either>
Is it harmful to my fox? Is it LPS, SPS, or what?
<What? The Faviid? See WWM re...>
Should I try and remove it from the fox coral and if so how, or.......is the fox going to die (skeleton exposed) and I should let it have the space for encrusting? Thanks in advance for your help.                       Cindy
<... Where is information re water quality? Maintenance, feeding?... Please... read what is archived on our site for these species. Bob Fenner>

Rare Faviid?/Repeat Post? - encrusting... 11/07/06
Hi, Newbie here.
<<Hi Newbie!>>
I am not real good at maneuvering the site yet, but I checked everywhere I thought appropriate, both on WWM and the Internet, and could not find an answer.
<<Ok>>
I will not bore you with complete tank set-up for ID question.
<<...?>>
I have a 4-month old Fox Coral, that started a few weeks ago recessing.  It gets fed regular and seemed very happy with its tank location, medium flow and high in the tank under 40 watts PC. I looked closely and found what appeared to be a brown flatworm. I think I have finally located enough photos to say this is some sort of Cyphastrea ocellina or crusty star coral.
<<Interesting>>
It is tan in color. I can find photos, but no information on this thing.
<<Have you seen this?  http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/401-500/Species%20pages/438.htm >>
It seems to be growing very fast.  Do my conditions seem favorable for such coral?
<<Apparently>>
Is it harmful to my fox?
<<Will probably "overcome">>
Is it LPS, SPS, or what?
<<It is a LPS...in the same family as Faviids and would need the same care>>
Should I try and remove it from the fox coral and if so, how or...is the fox going to die (skeleton exposed) and I should let it have the space for encrusting?
<<Up to you, though attempting removal may result in the demise of both>>
Thanks in advance for your help. Cynne
<<Very happy to assist.  Eric Russell>>
This is the original email, I sent yesterday.  I wasn't sure if you had received it or not.
<<Indeed it was (received)...have you checked the dailies?>>
I appreciate you taking the time to get back with me on this.
<<No problem Cynne...is what we do...>>
I was very careful to check the grammar and spelling before resending.
<<Much appreciated>>
I also searched your site, the best that I could before asking.
<<Also much appreciated>>
I have been using your site, for research, for months.
<<Excellent...hope you have found it useful>>
I cannot guarantee I will not repeat a question, or include a typographical error, but it will not be for lack of effort on my part.
<<Is all we can ask...>>
Thanks again for your work here.  Your efforts do not go unnoticed by all.
<<Ah, thank you very much for this...redeeming to know.  EricR>>

Re: strange encrusting coral   5/8/06
Hello Bob,
<Wayne>
Thanks for the reply. My apologies for not using scientific names,
<Mmm, not necessary... but your message just wasn't clear to me... at one point you referred to a flatworm... and then asked questions of another hard coral...>
I haven't been at this long. I will check the info. provided for the Faviid. Water perimeters are all perfect. Nitrates <20,
<I would strive to keep this below 10 ppm>
Nitrites 0, pH 8.4, Ammonia 0,
Salinity 1.024, Temp 75, I do realize lighting is a little as well as temperature is a little low, however, I am maintaining a seahorse tank with mostly gorgonians sponges and soft corals.
<Can be done... do live with these in the wild... as well as many more noxious groups of organisms>
I use an Emperor bio wheel filter system, Red Sea prism skimmer, and 2 Maxi jet 400 power heads. This is a fifty-five gallon aquarium and the set-up was designed and maintained with the assistance of Pete Giwojna
<A fine gentleman, "keeper of the faith" in our interest>
from OR, who, by the way recommended I direct most coral issues to you. Thanks again for your time and I will get the info I need now in regards to my new found Faviid. Have a great day.
<Thank you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>

Re: strange encrusting coral.   5/8/06
Thanks Again,
<Welcome>
The flatworm was a reference to the shape of the hard coral.
<Ohhh>
I apologize for the confusion. Have you any recommendations on the nitrates?
<Yes... read on WWM re... much posted re "causes", cures>
I currently perform 2-3 water changes weekly, use a poly filter and nitrate sponge.
<Mmm, perhaps the addition of a sump/refugium, macroalgae, DSB..>
I blame it on 2 feedings a day. I can't cut the feedings back, but I am concerned with the nitrates. I cannot seem to get algae to grow, except the occasional brown diatoms. When I buy Macroalgae it dies in weeks, My low lighting perhaps?
<Mmm... could be... but might be due mainly to other influences... Perhaps the already established mix of algae... a lack of some essential nutrient (rate limiter)... Bob Fenner>                                                                           Thanks
Cynne

Re: Rare Faviid? - 11/09/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
Thanks so much for your help.
<<My pleasure>>
You were right on the money with the faviid description, and without a photo too, I am impressed.
<<Mmm, don't be "too" impressed <grin>...after all, you did provide the scientific name>>
I guess my fox coral is doomed:(.
<<Probably...as the Faviid grows it will prove to be quite aggressive/will likely extend sweeper-tentacles to kill the fox coral>>
I find this hard to believe that under such low lighting, not only was the fox coral happy, but the faviid showed up as well.
<<Many Faviids do very well under moderate lighting>>
I can tell it's growing daily from the distance it has before actually touching the fox coral itself; currently it is just growing on the skeletal base.
<<Will eventually overgrow/encrust entirely>>
Thanks again.
Cynne
<<Very welcome.  Eric Russell>>

Candy Cane Coral ... misplaced/health   9/5/06
Good Evening All,
First I'd like to thank you for your informative site as it has assisted me through all stages of this hobby.
<Welcome>
I recently purchased a  Candy Cane Coral with about 15 - 20 heads. The issue seems to be now a few of those heads are receding and two of them has completely melted away. All my other corals seem to be doing OK, I even purchased a Brain coral (what the LFS called watermelon coral due to it's pink color) the same time I purchased the Candy Cane Coral.
<And quarantined both?>
Everything else is doing fine, Yellow Leather, Crocea
clam, Clove polyp (recovering possibly from high phosphate levels due to the Proper PH 8.2 I've been adding), Bubble Coral, assorted polyps and mushrooms. It's a 50 gallon with a 30 gallon refugium and 10-15 gallon sump. The lights are on nine hours MH 150w 14,000K with two hours of 65w PC X 2 daily. The Candy Cane coral is located towards the top with decent current, the heads with receding are on opposite sides of the coral. Please help! I want to save this coral any way I can.
<It is a/the loser amongst a mix of non-compatible "mixed garden" cnidarians...>
Water parameters seems to be good except for low calcium.
Ammonia 0
Phosphate <=1
Nitrate 5-10
Nitrite 0
KH 7
Calcium 350
James Yan
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. There are ways/means of granting oneself more "chances" of success with such mixes... see WWM re. Bob Fenner>

Re: Candy Cane Coral  9/6/06
Thank you for your quick response! Hope you had a wonderful labor day weekend.
<All days are about the same wonderful to me>
Would separating some of the corals, for example, moving the mushrooms to the refugium help or remove them all together?
<Either one...>
I have traded a large chunk of mushrooms to the LFS recently to decrease the possible chemical warfare going on. I'm trying to balance my tank for more LPS corals with some polyps and possibly keep the yellow leather as the only soft coral besides assorted polyps.
<... need to read...>
No hard corals will be added. Does the WWM have articles where there are suggestions possibly mixing corals? Thanks again!
<All sorts... start reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Bob Fenner>

Candycane skeleton disintegrating   8/22/06
Greeting from Nova Scotia
<Hello from San Diego, CA>
I have a small coral reef tank since 9 months that causes no troubles. One of mine Candycanes got now about 11 branches (had 7 or 8  
when we got it) and it's doing really good (dividing, long tentacles at night, bright colours, etc...). Two days ago however, I noticed  
that 2 of the branches are actually disintegrating. I am talking about the skeleton at the back of the polyp, and surprisingly enough, the  
polyps at the end of those branches are looking awesome and do not seems to be bothered at all. I am suspecting a lack of Calcium and/or  
the fact that my pH might be a bit too low (7.8/8.0)
<Could be more...>
so it drives the carbonate equilibrium of sea water toward the HCO3- side but I am not sure. A friend of mine (has a big coral reef tank) said that it might  
be the fact that my Candycane is submitted to water flow that are two high.
<Another factor>
I doubt it, but do you have any suggestions ?
Thanks so much in advance
Flavienne
<Mmm, the ultrastructure of the alkaline earth skeletal matrix is likely "missing" something... happens frequently with (your as stated) imbalance of calcium, magnesium and alkalinity... Do you have the "Kalk habit"? This is a common situation (soft skeletons) with this use... other methods of supplying ready alkaline earth, carbonate produce "harder" bio-matrix (calcium reactors, two part supplements...). Bob Fenner>
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Dalhousie University
Department of Oceanography
 

Favia brain received in bad condition   7/8/06   Hello again.  So I work at a LFS and on their stocklist has a red Favia brain which sounded appealing to me and it was rather expensive, so I expected something great.  Well I did not receive anything great, but because I asked the owners to order it for me I took it and kissed the cash goodbye.  The problem is, it is suffering from major recession.  My question is can it be nursed back to health, and can it cause any other corals in  my tank to have problems? <Yes, and unlikely, but can add to overall "stress" for sure> It doesn't appear to be suffering from any infection, it was probably just in a bad "holding" tank for a while.  To me it just appears like it was not fed properly or was in bad water. <I concur> The other corals I have in my tank are: Favites brain, torch coral, Trachy brain, green star polyps, and some finger leathers and mushrooms all of which are doing very well.  My water quality is excellent, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, phosphate 0.1, calcium 400, alk 10 dKH.  So with proper feeding (by the way his tentacles did extend last night to my surprise) and excellent water will it be ok? <Likely so> I usually feed finely chopped Mysis to my brain corals.  I have attached a picture which is a little blurry and from that I hope you can tell me if this coral can be saved. <Can be... You do administer weekly iodine/ide/ate?> Thank you very much, Ryan Nienhuis.  P.S. I did contact the wholesaler the coral came from and she said she would make things right....there not all bad.  Once again thank you in advance for your advise. <Ah, good. Thank you for writing so clearly, completely. Bob Fenner> Thank you very much for the response I really appreciate it.  If it is OK with you I will give you periodic updates on the corals health.  Thanks again, Ryan Nienhuis. <Would appreciate this. Thank you, BobF>

Re: Favia improvement  7/15/06
  Thanks for the response.  Another thing, although the red Favia is improving I have only seen it's tentacles come out once.
<Things take time...>
  Any suggestions (tried the juice and turkey baster trick)?  The only time the tentacles came out, I was fooling around with the powerheads, any idea why this would trigger such a response?
<Yes, improved circulation, oxygen...>
  My replies don't seem to be getting through to you but I will try again.  Hopefully I will not bother you for a while with any more questions.  Thanks again, Ryan Nienhuis.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Sick or just over-illuminated Faviid; neon green trumpet discoloration... a paucity of info.    7/1/06
Hello, I did a lot of searching and learned a lot I might add, but I could not find the answer to my question.  I have a fluorescent green trumpet.  Within the last few weeks the color has been changing a bit. I am starting to see brownish colored stripes going through them.  One of the heads has turned that brownish color.  It is not letting any mucous out.  I am unsure if this is still brown jelly disease or maybe a lighting issue.
<More likely this last... where's info. re your water quality, history of maintenance, nutrition...?>
  We have 5.4 watts per gal in a 72 gal tank and he is pretty high up, about 8 inches from the top.  If a pic is needed, let me know.  Thanks!
Chris
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviiddisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

About trumpet coral... health, systems  - 05/20/2006
Hey guys, I bought a trumpet coral from my LFS (which I actually work at now) and it doesn't seem to be doing so hot.   It looks normal during the day, but never really fully expands.  At night it shows it sweeper tentacles and it eats regularly, but like I said it never fully expands and some of the polyps have some bone showing through the tissue.  Is there anything I can do to help him out.  By the way, my water tests 0 for Nitrite and Ammonia, Nitrate is less than 5 ppm and pH is around 8.2-8.3.  I dose Kalkwasser and I do regular water changes to keep up trace elements and add a little purple up also to help with that.  He is under 130 watts of power compacts about 4 or 5 inches from the surface.  Any advice would be awesome.
  Thanks guys.
<... I would take care re adding these adjuncts... do so in water to be changed out, that is pre-mixed, stored... And read here: http://www.google.com/custom?q=trumpet++coral+health&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
Bob Fenner>

Brown Jelly infection on candy cane? The Amazing Kreskin? Can't see this far, guess re system, history...  10/19/05
Hey guys,  
<What about the ladies here?>
I have a candy cane coral of which one polyp has brown filaments in the center.  Is this brown jelly?
<... can't tell from here>
  I recently lost a hammer coral to brown jelly and I'm afraid that it has spread in my tank.  If so, should I cut off the polyp or siphon it off?
<... under what circumstances? Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/faviiddisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Disintegrating Candycane polyp 10/13/05
Hi All, I've had my 34 polyp candycane now for approx. 1 1/2 years. Actually, polyp count was 24 when it was purchased and has since been splitting and looking really good. Within the last two weeks, I've noticed the outer edges on two polyps lose its fullness but not quite emaciated. 
Then: 1) the mouths stayed open, 2) the center green flesh on one pulled away from the mouth causing a gaping hole and brown mesenterial filaments are showing. 
The other polyp's brown outer flesh in one location has started to drip, taking with it two spines! 
It just hangs from the polyp. I've checked the FAQ section and was unable to come up with an example of my problem. I would appreciate it if you could help me figure out what's going on with my beautiful candycane before whatever it is affects the whole head.
<Congrats on your success with this coral! What you are seeing has been described by other aquarists and seems to be a form of reproduction. Eventually, the "dripping" tissue will fall free from the parent polyp, and if they find (or are placed on) a suitable substrate, they will survive and grow.>
Water parameters: SG 1.026, pH 8.1 (can't get it higher?), dKH 10.9, Alk. 3.66, CA 395 Nitrate 10, Nitrite 0, Amm 0, phos. 0. I do a 12 to 15 gal water change every week on my 55 gal. Thanks for your help. Lynn 
<Keep up the good work! Best Regards. AdamC.>

Disintegrating Candycane polyps part 2 10/16/05
Hi Adam C, Thanks for the speedy reply and news that my candycane is reproducing. How is that different from each polyp splitting itself in half to form new polyps other than maybe dripping forms new individual colonies? 
<I don't know, and I don't think anyone else does. Some suspect that it is stress related.>
Also, how about the polyp that developed a gapping hole around its mouth and one can see the mesenterial filaments inside? I can see a couple of spines inside the hole. Has this polyp had it? If so, should I cut that particular stalk away? Thanks again for your help. Lynn 
<It is hard to guess if this is part of the same process or not. I would keep an eye on it. As long as it does not develop signs of any kind of infection (brown or white jelly like material), I would not worry about removing it. Best Regards. AdamC.>

Favia Brain Problem - 07/04/05
I have a very large Favia Brain.  I have had it for a very long time.
<<Excellent>>
Last night I noticed a couple of white, crusty like spots on it.  Tonight there seems to be a few more.  I touched the spots and they are hard.  What is it and what can I do?
<<Mmm...hard to say really without seeing it.  May be exposed skeleton from some physical trauma (added any new fish/inverts?).>>
I have metal halides and blue VHO light system.  Everything else seems to be okay.  Please advise ASAP. I added a few drops of Lugol's solution tonight.
<<The iodine can be beneficial as an aid to healing if this is indeed an injury, but be "very" careful with the dosage.  Optimum water conditions/frequent water changes are also needed to help avoid secondary bacterial infections.>>
Judy
<<Eric R.>>

Bubble In The Candy Cane - 06/24/05
Hey guys how are you?
<<Well...thank you.>>
Well the last days in the reef have not been so great.
<<uh oh>>
First I came home and saw my yellow tang tail first caught in a power head!
<<Curious, these fish are usually able to avoid such calamity.>>
I did all I could but overtime stress got to him :(  Since my tang was a massive grazer my hair algae is starting to bloom!
<<The tang was only treating the symptom.  Do look to your water quality/husbandry to determine/correct the problem.>>
Now I  see my candy cane coral has a bubble in it!.....What else could happen? anyway, will my candy cane pass/expel this bubble or is this life threatening?
<<Have experienced this in the past myself...the coral should absorb the bubble in time and will be fine.>>
I have him under about 7 inches of water that’s crystal clear due to carbon. My lighting isn’t that powerful though I have 1 65 watt 7100K actinic and one 65 watt daylight. Please help I would hate to lose another inhabitant!
<<No worries mate.>>
thanks for your help,
Aaron
<<Regards, Eric R.>>

Candycane dying
Hey guys,
<Nilesh>
I have 155 gal new tank established for the past 4 months with live, skimmer, 4-802 powerheads,  175 watt venture MH bulbs.  I bought this tank second hand and inherited a candycane coral.  
<Okay>
For a while, about 2 months the coral was doing fine but lately I've noticed that the coral is bleaching.  Also the green pigmentation, I guess zooxanthellae sort of split open.  Is this coral dying?
<Doesn't sound/read as if it is well>
Can I save it?
<Probably>
All my parameters are normal... salt, pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, temp.  The coral is placed in medium depth, no direct lighting, and medium flow.  I haven't really spot fed the coral...I thought that the light would provide enough food.  What do you think?
<Lighting is not a sufficient source of nutrition for this species... a healthy refugium might supply other food... but...>
The calcium may be the problem, it's 280.  I know that this is low but I'm having a hard time maintaining it at 400+.  I don't have a calcium reactor, so I've been  using Tropic Marin's Bio Calcium with trace elements.  Do you think that the low calcium/trace element level is causing the death or lack of growth?
<Definitely is contributing to the poor health>
  Since it's a new set up, I.e. it's still going through those awful algae phases...I'm at Cyano right now and the coral has quite a bit of hair algae on it.  I've tried to blow it off with a powerhead. it works but comes back... is this preventing the zooxanthellae from taking in light?  
<Among other ill-effects>
Last question, I'm wondering why my levels of calcium has fluctuated from 400 to 280 in 2 weeks.  I've been doing 5% water changes and have been adding calcium. I'm guessing that the calcium is used up for coralline algae growth although I don't see any coralline at this time.  Pleas help...Any info would be appreciated
Nilesh
<These questions and the next several sets that you will have are posted on WWM... please take the time to read what is posted there re your species health, environment, feeding... calcium... And soon. Your system will fare better with your knowing what you're about here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Candycane dying
  Hey guys,
  One more addition to the info which I left out.  I had a pink tip anemone in the tank which got crushed when a rock fell over it.  I wasn't sure if it was going to die so I watched it for a day.  The next day, it stunk!  I immediately threw it away.  Do you think that the anemone released toxins or waste that killed my candycane?  I've tested the ammonia and it is less than 01.
    The cane started dying a day later...
  Nilesh
<Definitely could be related... again, please stop spending your money experimenting... and read/study... these organisms cannot be successfully mixed, placed near each other. Bob Fenner>
 

Favia sp. Tissue Recession 3.21.05 Hi, <Hello, Ryan with you> I've had this Favia for at least 6 months and in the last 4 weeks I've noticed tissue recession along the lower edges of the skeleton. Since noticing the tissue recession I have religiously made weekly water changes of 5-7 gallons, changed each lamp in the canopy and routinely added supplements (Iodide, Reef Complete, Reef Plus, Reef Trace, Seachem Calcium) and yet, the tissue recedes further. The tissue isn't receding all the way around the coral, only on the side nearest the a sinularia and adjacent to the aquarium's back wall. <Sand bed creatures can also disturb a Favia that lives directly on the bed. Have you considered elevating the Favia a few inches with a few pieces of rubble?> I inherited this 75g tank from a friend in August '04. At the time, it was powered by only 120w of mixed fluorescents and had only the Sinularia and a Lemon peel tang. I've upgraded the canopy's lighting to 252W Fluorescent (96w PC 10K, 96w PC Actinic 03, 30w 20K and 30w Actinic 03). Filtration is wet/dry filter/sump and an AquaC 120 Skimmer (the skimmer is 2 weeks new and the system was run w/out a skimmer for at least two months prior to installing the AquaC 120. The tank came with a Sanders round hang on, but I could never adjust it correctly.). The tank has a thin crushed coral bed (up to 1" deep, large grain), and the lower portion of the sumps has Aragonite sand). <Okay> Current residents are: A small blue tang, one Ocellaris clown (the other went down the overflow box), 1 cleaner shrimp, several red leg hermits, a handful of snails (several varieties), Red-Orange w/ black speckles Fromia, and several small brittle stars (one of which resides inside the rock the Favia has encrusted). Cnidarians include: Entacmaea Quad (1), Trachyphyllia (1), Short tentacle Fungia (1), two rocks encrusted w/ green star polyps (small polyps), several colonies of Zoos, 1 rock covered w/ Parazoanthus, 6 Ricordea Yuma (5 added to tank on 03/18/05), 1 Ricordea floridae, 2 Rhodactis (added to tank on 03/18/05), several Discosoma shrooms and 1 large rock covered with some type of soft coral. Water parameters are: Ammonia-Low, Nitrite-Low, Nitrate-Low, Calcium 430, Alk 12. Salinity 1.024-1.025 and PH 8.1-8.2 <What is low? No nitrite/ammonia should be present. If they are, even in trace amounts, it can be lethal to this type of animal.> What can I do to save this coral? <Give him a bit of a lift, and supplement his feeding with a weekly feeding. If you are having any ammonia/nitrite issues, these should be corrected ASAP. Good luck! Ryan>

Favia Tissue Recession pt. 2 ( 3.24.2005)
Hello and thank you for the reply.
<No problem! Ryan with you again.>
The Favia is elevated at least 8" to 10" atop LR (has been so since purchasing it).
<Nice>
Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate test at 0.
The Favia hasn't extended its tentacles in a long time (I'm up in early in the mornings before the lights come on and I haven't seen the tentacles in a long while, I assumed it was getting plenty of nutrients from the zooxanthellae) and I've never been able to get a reaction from food while the lights are on (other than the polyps mouths opening very slightly).
<Certainly a sign of stress. Keep the current higher in the area to dilute the chemical warfare, if any. Keep the water changes regular.>
Is there any chance that my sinularia or any of the polyps are having a chemical war at the Favia's expense?
<Yes, it's a good possibility. Google allelopathy, and read up a bit. There are some easy ways to make nice! Good luck, Ryan>
Thanks,
Ken
PS Should I increase wattage closer to 5w/gal? I'm currently @ 3.36 on a 24" tall aquarium.
<If PC/VHO, yes. Metal Halide should be penetrating deep enough for a decent amount of usable light. Thanks, Ryan>

Brain coral 
<Hello EAM917>
We have a 46 gal reef tank which has been working for approx 7 months.  A few
months ago we got a green brain coral.  It would change size during the
course of the day and evening.  Usually large during the day and much smaller in
the evening.<Sounds normal> During the past 3 or 3 days it has not changed size, it is small.
The sides appear to have some white coloring which we have not seen before.<Sounds like bleaching> Do you have any idea what is happening and what we should do.<Several factors can cause this.  First, what kind of lighting are you using?  Do you feed your corals?  The hard corals of which the brain is a member of require very intense lighting of the proper spectrum to survive along with good water movement. Answer the questions I have asked and we can try to help you. James (Salty Dog)>Thanks Elizabeth

Re: Brain coral, health
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. <You're welcome Elizabeth> We have never heard of bleaching, what is it  & can it be corrected?<In a nutshell bleaching occurs when things are not to the corals liking>  We use a coral life Aqualight double strip 34 in 96 w Actinic and 96 w 10000k square bulb.  Water movement in the tank is good.  We are using flake food for the fish and were never told by the store to use anything else. They said they would get their food from this. Do you think this coral can be saved.<What is the height of your tank?  The PC lighting may not be intense enough for the brain coral.  Corals don't require feeding on a daily basis but a weekly feeding is good.  DT's phytoplankton is a good choice. As far as saving the coral, keep your lights on for 12 hours, replace the bulbs if they are over one year old, do 10% water changes weekly. There is no cure in a bottle that will save corals, just good sound maintenance of the aquarium is all you can do for now. James <Salty Dog)> (Thanks Elizabeth

Re: Brain coral, health
My husband said to tell you that the nitrite and ammonia is 0ppm however the
nitrate is over 160ppm.  Would that stress it.<yes, corals do require pristine water quality.  This tells me you do not do 10% weekly water changes.  This helps reduce the nitrate level by dilution.>  He has put in a nitrate sponge<the nitrate sponge is fine but nitrates have to be controlled at the source of the problem or the levels will just return>in the filtering system to try to lower it earlier today and did a water change  6 days ago.  The water temp is 78. Thanks Elizabeth<James (Salty Dog)

Re: Brain coral
We have done 2 water changes and the levels are still high.  Any suggestions
to lower it.  I was wondering, parts of the brain are looking better and are
enlarging during the day.  You can see them moving or pulsing like water is
going through them.  I don't know what actually causes that.  Other parts seem to
have split  open and you see an off white color that appears skeletal.  Is
there a possibility that parts will continue to live on the brain coral or is it
just a matter of time before the entire brain changes to white.  If this
happens is it dead ?  Thanks Elizabeth <Elizabeth, if you have a canister filter I would recommend you get some "Chemi-pure" and use this.  It is an excellent product for removing nutrients in the form that protein skimmers will not take out.  You do have a protein skimmer, correct?. James (Salty Dog)

Re: Brain coral part 2
Sorry the mail somehow was sent.  I am bad on the computer.
We did a water change again last night.  The brain is enlarging during the
day but only is some sections.,  We can see is moving or pulsing like water is
going through it.  Some parts seem to have split open and you see an off white
color that appears skeletal.  Is there a possibility that parts will continue
to live on the brain or is it just a matter of time before the entire brain
changes to white.  If this happens is it dead.  Thanks Elizabeth <Hello Elizabeth, One thing you have to keep in mind with keeping hard corals, or anything marine for that matter is that weekly water changes (not just till things get better)  is one of the best things you can do for the overall health of the tank.  It not only removes nitrates etc. by dilution, but also replenishes traces elements that have been absorbed by the animals.  You will know when the brain is dead.  You will end up with a white skeleton.  These corals are not one of the easiest to keep.  The elegance or bubble corals are a little easier to maintain.  James (Salty Dog)

Re: Helping injured brain coral 1/12/04
This is for James, Salty Dog.  You have been helping me with a problem with the 46 gal reef tank.  I was just wondering if a brain coral could still live when a portion of it is damaged or will it eventually die?
<Anthony Calfo with a contribution as well :) indeed, most any can survive and recover with adequate water quality (do not move the animal and stress with a change in light... provide good turbulent water flow but never laminar, etc.). The addition of small amounts of iodine (reef supplement) may be of some indirect benefit too. Feeding the coral with tiny bits of food (mysids or Pacifica plankton... nothing larger) will be of tremendous help! 3-5 times weekly. Best of luck, Anthony>

Helping injured brain coral 1/12/04
This is for James, Salty Dog.  You have been helping me with a problem with the 46 gal reef tank.  I was just wondering if a brain coral could still live when a portion of it is damaged or will it eventually die?
<Anthony Calfo with a contribution as well :) indeed, most any can survive and recover with adequate water quality (do not move the animal and stress with a change in light... provide good turbulent water flow but never laminar, etc.). The addition of small amounts of iodine (reef supplement) may be of some indirect benefit too. Feeding the coral with tiny bits of food (mysids or Pacifica plankton... nothing larger) will be of tremendous help! 3-5 times weekly. Best of luck, Anthony>