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FAQs about Faviid Coral Disease/Health, Pests 2

FAQs on Faviid Disease: Faviid Disease 1, Faviid Disease 3, Faviid Disease 4, Faviid Disease 5, Faviid Disease, 
FAQs on Faviid Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 

Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Faviid Corals

FAQs on Stony Coral Disease: Stony Coral Disease 1, Stony Coral Disease 2, Stony Coral Disease 3, Stony Coral Disease 4, Stony Coral Disease 5, Stony Coral Disease 6, Stony Coral Disease 7, Stony Coral Disease 8, Stony Coral Disease 9, Stony Coral Disease 10, Stony Coral Disease 11, Stony Coral Disease 12, Stony Coral Disease 13, Stony Coral Disease 14, Stony Coral Disease 15, Stony Coral Disease ,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing: Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Type: Brown Jelly Disease,

Recovering from Sandy - Is my coral dead?    11/11/12
> Hi
> I appreciate you reading my question. I lost power for a week due to Sandy. My only loss was my fish tank so I am very lucky.  I have a 30 gallon reef tank with live rock, two brain corals (Favites or Goniastrea and a Trachyphyllia geoffroyi), some soft button and leather corals (Zoanthid, Protopalythoa and Rhodactis) and two Damsel fish.  The tank is 8 years old and I have kept the coral for at least 6 years. Prior to the power outage, I changed 25% of the water every two weeks and during the weeklong power outage I periodically tried to circulate the water (with a cup) and I performed two 2.5 gallon water changes.  Despite my efforts, the tank suffered from lack of filtration, light and warm water.   I have attached two photos: the first taken in 2007 when the coral was very new to my tank, the second taken today, one week after power was restored to my house.   My questions are simple.  Is my brain coral dead?
<Not quite all the way dead>
 Should I remove them from the tank
<I would not move>
 The fish, button and leather corals all seem to be OK. 
> Thank you again. I appreciate your expert advice.
<Keep the faith... as long as there is some attendant tissue, just white (not algae covered) skeleton, these Stony corals may well come back. Bob Fenner>

Re: Recovering from Sandy - Is my coral dead?    11/15/12
Thank you for answering the question so quickly. The open brain coral is recovering nicely. I am not sure about the other one. I will continue to monitor.
<Ah good. BobF>

Sick Candy cane?  12/30/06 Hello and thanks for reading my question. <Hi there!  Mich here reading your question.> I have a teal candy cane coral that is showing signs of tissue regression.  The polyps themselves look fine, but the tissue is receding from the base drawing closer and closer to  the actual polyps leaving the skeleton exposed at the base.  My water parameters are as follows: salinity 1.025 temp 79-81 pH 8.3 nitrites 0 nitrates <5 <How are your calcium levels?  I suspect this might be part of the problem.  I see a Yellow Leather (Sarcophyton elegans) in the photo.  Sometimes you will also see evidence of unhappiness related to allelopathy.  Candy Canes (Caulastrea) typically lose the chemical warfare battle.>   For lighting I have 2 65 watt actinics and a 150 watt MH.  The coral is located about midway in the tank.   I add Phytofeast and Cyclop-eeze about twice a week.  Is there anything I can do to help this coral? <Test your calcium level.  You might try some direct feedings also.  Caulastrea usually will respond to meaty foods such as Mysis shrimp, even small pieces of scallop, fish or shrimp.  Be sure to turn off you circulation before feeding. They will engulf pieces up to the size of a grain of rice with ease.>    It is the bluish green one in the center of the photo. Thanks for your help. <Welcome.  Good luck!  -Mich>
Re: Sick Candy Cane part 2 12/30/2006 Dear Mich, <Hi Angela, Mich here again.> Thanks for your reply. <You are very welcome.> Should I try moving the coral further away from the yellow leather or is the effect of the chemical warfare the same for all places in the tank?   <It will in theory be more concentrated closer to the source, in this case the leather, but will obviously circulate throughout the tank.>     Should candy canes not be kept in the same tank as yellow leathers? <They would do better in different systems.> My calcium is at 400...I do not add calcium, but I do weekly water changes with Tropic Marine Pro Reef Salt, so my calcium level seems to stay stable.   <Your calcium levels are fine.> I looked more closely today and the polyps showing the most regression are those on the lower side that get the least amount of light.   <This could be the cause.> Should I move the coral further up in the tank or angle it differently? <I would try angling it first.>   Thanks so much for your help. <I think you helped yourself.  -Mich>

Strange encrusting coral... actually strange lack of info. query   11/6/06 Hi, Newbie here. Not real good at maneuvering the site yet, but I checked everywhere I thought appropriate, both on WWM and internet, and could not find an answer. I will not bore you with complete tank set up for ID question. I have a 4 month old Fox Coral, <The Euphylliid?> that started a few weeks ago recessing. It gets fed regular and seemed very happy with its tank location Med flow and high in the tank under 40 watt PC. I looked closely and found what appeared to be a brown flatworm. I think, I have finally located enough photos to say this is some sort of Cyphastrea ocellina or crusty star coral. <?... the Faviid?> It is tan in color. I can find photos, but no information on this thing. It seems to be growing very fast. Does my conditions seem favorable for such coral? <Which? Actually your lighting is a bit low for either> Is it harmful to my fox? Is it LPS, SPS, or what? <What? The Faviid? See WWM re...> Should I try and remove it from the fox coral and if so how, or.......is the fox going to die (skeleton exposed) and I should let it have the space for encrusting? Thanks in advance for your help.                       Cindy <... Where is information re water quality? Maintenance, feeding?... Please... read what is archived on our site for these species. Bob Fenner>
Rare Faviid?/Repeat Post? - encrusting... 11/07/06
Hi, Newbie here. <<Hi Newbie!>> I am not real good at maneuvering the site yet, but I checked everywhere I thought appropriate, both on WWM and the Internet, and could not find an answer. <<Ok>> I will not bore you with complete tank set-up for ID question. <<...?>> I have a 4-month old Fox Coral, that started a few weeks ago recessing.  It gets fed regular and seemed very happy with its tank location, medium flow and high in the tank under 40 watts PC. I looked closely and found what appeared to be a brown flatworm. I think I have finally located enough photos to say this is some sort of Cyphastrea ocellina or crusty star coral. <<Interesting>> It is tan in color. I can find photos, but no information on this thing. <<Have you seen this?   http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/401-500/Species%20pages/438.htm >> It seems to be growing very fast.  Do my conditions seem favorable for such coral? <<Apparently>> Is it harmful to my fox? <<Will probably "overcome">> Is it LPS, SPS, or what? <<It is a LPS...in the same family as Faviids and would need the same care>> Should I try and remove it from the fox coral and if so, how or...is the fox going to die (skeleton exposed) and I should let it have the space for encrusting? <<Up to you, though attempting removal may result in the demise of both>> Thanks in advance for your help. Cynne <<Very happy to assist.  Eric Russell>> This is the original email, I sent yesterday.  I wasn't sure if you had received it or not. <<Indeed it was (received)...have you checked the dailies?>> I appreciate you taking the time to get back with me on this. <<No problem Cynne...is what we do...>> I was very careful to check the grammar and spelling before resending. <<Much appreciated>> I also searched your site, the best that I could before asking. <<Also much appreciated>> I have been using your site, for research, for months. <<Excellent...hope you have found it useful>> I cannot guarantee I will not repeat a question, or include a typographical error, but it will not be for lack of effort on my part. <<Is all we can ask...>> Thanks again for your work here.  Your efforts do not go unnoticed by all. <<Ah, thank you very much for this...redeeming to know.  EricR>>
Re: strange encrusting coral   5/8/06
Hello Bob, <Wayne> Thanks for the reply. My apologies for not using scientific names, <Mmm, not necessary... but your message just wasn't clear to me... at one point you referred to a flatworm... and then asked questions of another hard coral...> I haven't been at this long. I will check the info. provided for the Faviid. Water perimeters are all perfect. Nitrates <20, <I would strive to keep this below 10 ppm> Nitrites 0, pH 8.4, Ammonia 0, Salinity 1.024, Temp 75, I do realize lighting is a little as well as temperature is a little low, however, I am maintaining a seahorse tank with mostly gorgonians sponges and soft corals. <Can be done... do live with these in the wild... as well as many more noxious groups of organisms> I use an Emperor bio wheel filter system, Red Sea prism skimmer, and 2 Maxi jet 400 power heads. This is a fifty-five gallon aquarium and the set-up was designed and maintained with the assistance of Pete Giwojna <A fine gentleman, "keeper of the faith" in our interest> from OR, who, by the way recommended I direct most coral issues to you. Thanks again for your time and I will get the info I need now in regards to my new found Faviid. Have a great day. <Thank you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>
Re: strange encrusting coral.   5/8/06
Thanks Again, <Welcome> The flatworm was a reference to the shape of the hard coral. <Ohhh> I apologize for the confusion. Have you any recommendations on the nitrates? <Yes... read on WWM re... much posted re "causes", cures> I currently perform 2-3 water changes weekly, use a poly filter and nitrate sponge. <Mmm, perhaps the addition of a sump/refugium, macroalgae, DSB..> I blame it on 2 feedings a day. I can't cut the feedings back, but I am concerned with the nitrates. I cannot seem to get algae to grow, except the occasional brown diatoms. When I buy Macroalgae it dies in weeks, My low lighting perhaps? <Mmm... could be... but might be due mainly to other influences... Perhaps the already established mix of algae... a lack of some essential nutrient (rate limiter)... Bob Fenner Thanks Cynne
Re: Rare Faviid? - 11/09/06
Hello, <<Howdy>> Thanks so much for your help. <<My pleasure>> You were right on the money with the Faviid description, and without a photo too, I am impressed. <<Mmm, don't be "too" impressed <grin>...after all, you did provide the scientific name>> I guess my fox coral is doomed:(. <<Probably...as the Faviid grows it will prove to be quite aggressive/will likely extend sweeper-tentacles to kill the fox coral>> I find this hard to believe that under such low lighting, not only was the fox coral happy, but the Faviid showed up as well. <<Many Faviids do very well under moderate lighting>> I can tell it's growing daily from the distance it has before actually touching the fox coral itself; currently it is just growing on the skeletal base. <<Will eventually overgrow/encrust entirely>> Thanks again. Cynne <<Very welcome.  Eric Russell>>

Candy Cane Coral ... misplaced/health   9/5/06 Good Evening All, First I'd like to thank you for your informative site as it has assisted me through all stages of this hobby. <Welcome> I recently purchased a  Candy Cane Coral with about 15 - 20 heads. The issue seems to be now a few of those heads are receding and two of them has completely melted away. All my other corals seem to be doing OK, I even purchased a Brain coral (what the LFS called watermelon coral due to it's pink color) the same time I purchased the Candy Cane Coral. <And quarantined both?> Everything else is doing fine, Yellow Leather, Crocea clam, Clove polyp (recovering possibly from high phosphate levels due to the Proper PH 8.2 I've been adding), Bubble Coral, assorted polyps and mushrooms. It's a 50 gallon with a 30 gallon refugium and 10-15 gallon sump. The lights are on nine hours MH 150w 14,000K with two hours of 65w PC X 2 daily. The Candy Cane coral is located towards the top with decent current, the heads with receding are on opposite sides of the coral. Please help! I want to save this coral any way I can. <It is a/the loser amongst a mix of non-compatible "mixed garden" cnidarians...> Water parameters seems to be good except for low calcium. Ammonia 0 Phosphate <=1 Nitrate 5-10 Nitrite 0 KH 7 Calcium 350 James Yan <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm and the linked files above. There are ways/means of granting oneself more "chances" of success with such mixes... see WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Re: Candy Cane Coral  9/6/06
Thank you for your quick response! Hope you had a wonderful labor day weekend. <All days are about the same wonderful to me> Would separating some of the corals, for example, moving the mushrooms to the refugium help or remove them all together? <Either one...> I have traded a large chunk of mushrooms to the LFS recently to decrease the possible chemical warfare going on. I'm trying to balance my tank for more LPS corals with some polyps and possibly keep the yellow leather as the only soft coral besides assorted polyps. <... need to read...> No hard corals will be added. Does the WWM have articles where there are suggestions possibly mixing corals? Thanks again! <All sorts... start reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Bob Fenner>

Candycane skeleton disintegrating   8/22/06 Greeting from Nova Scotia <Hello from San Diego, CA> I have a small coral reef tank since 9 months that causes no troubles. One of mine Candycanes got now about 11 branches (had 7 or 8 when we got it) and it's doing really good (dividing, long tentacles at night, bright colours, etc...). Two days ago however, I noticed that 2 of the branches are actually disintegrating. I am talking about the skeleton at the back of the polyp, and surprisingly enough, the polyps at the end of those branches are looking awesome and do not seems to be bothered at all. I am suspecting a lack of Calcium and/or the fact that my pH might be a bit too low (7.8/8.0) <Could be more...> so it drives the carbonate equilibrium of sea water toward the HCO3- side but I am not sure. A friend of mine (has a big coral reef tank) said that it might be the fact that my Candycane is submitted to water flow that are two high. <Another factor> I doubt it, but do you have any suggestions ? Thanks so much in advance Flavienne <Mmm, the ultrastructure of the alkaline earth skeletal matrix is likely "missing" something... happens frequently with (your as stated) imbalance of calcium, magnesium and alkalinity... Do you have the "Kalk habit"? This is a common situation (soft skeletons) with this use... other methods of supplying ready alkaline earth, carbonate produce "harder" bio-matrix (calcium reactors, two part supplements...). Bob Fenner> -------------------------------------- Dalhousie University Department of Oceanography

Favia brain received in bad condition   7/8/06   Hello again.  So I work at a LFS and on their stocklist has a red Favia brain which sounded appealing to me and it was rather expensive, so I expected something great.  Well I did not receive anything great, but because I asked the owners to order it for me I took it and kissed the cash goodbye.  The problem is, it is suffering from major recession.  My question is can it be nursed back to health, and can it cause any other corals in  my tank to have problems? <Yes, and unlikely, but can add to overall "stress" for sure> It doesn't appear to be suffering from any infection, it was probably just in a bad "holding" tank for a while.  To me it just appears like it was not fed properly or was in bad water. <I concur> The other corals I have in my tank are: Favites brain, torch coral, Trachy brain, green star polyps, and some finger leathers and mushrooms all of which are doing very well.  My water quality is excellent, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, phosphate 0.1, calcium 400, alk 10 dKH.  So with proper feeding (by the way his tentacles did extend last night to my surprise) and excellent water will it be ok? <Likely so> I usually feed finely chopped Mysis to my brain corals.  I have attached a picture which is a little blurry and from that I hope you can tell me if this coral can be saved. <Can be... You do administer weekly iodine/ide/ate?> Thank you very much, Ryan Nienhuis.  P.S. I did contact the wholesaler the coral came from and she said she would make things right....there not all bad.  Once again thank you in advance for your advise. <Ah, good. Thank you for writing so clearly, completely. Bob Fenner> Thank you very much for the response I really appreciate it.  If it is OK with you I will give you periodic updates on the corals health.  Thanks again, Ryan Nienhuis. <Would appreciate this. Thank you, BobF>

Re: Favia improvement  7/15/06   Thanks for the response.  Another thing, although the red Favia is improving I have only seen it's tentacles come out once. <Things take time...>   Any suggestions (tried the juice and turkey baster trick)?  The only time the tentacles came out, I was fooling around with the powerheads, any idea why this would trigger such a response? <Yes, improved circulation, oxygen...>   My replies don't seem to be getting through to you but I will try again.  Hopefully I will not bother you for a while with any more questions.  Thanks again, Ryan Nienhuis. <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Favia brain update  7/23/06   Hello again.  I told Mr. Fenner I would keep him updated on a Favia brain I received in absolutely terrible condition.  It has improved greatly over the past couple weeks and is now opening its tentacles at night so I can feed it. <Ah, good>   The color is coming back and the recession is slowly fading, although still evident.  I do have a new question, I have read the article on your site about Aiptasia and I have a reproduction crisis.  The dumb things are going crazy.  Little babies are floating in the tank...what do I do? <Your options are posted on WWM as well...> It seems the more I try to kill the more they reproduce (@#$%).  It could, and probably is a result of overfeeding, trying to save the coral and get the new fish to eat. <Very likely nutrient abundance is a factor here>   My water parameters are excellent which leads me to believe nutrient export is good.   <... Or... imagine... that nutrient uptake is excellent... eh?> I also have a issue with a Kole tang harassing a newly purchased blue flavivertex Pseudochromis,  it does not appear to be trying to hurt it, just chasing it which makes it hard to feed...any ideas?   <If not apparently harming it...> By the way my water parameters are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, calcium 400 ppm, alkalinity 10 dKH, phosphate 0.1, and pH 8.3.  Tank is 90 gallon with 20 gallon (half full) sump and aqua c remora pro skimmer.  Tank inhabitants Kole tang, false percula clown, blue flavivertex Pseudochromis, cleaner shrimp, Montipora, Acropora, Trachy brain, Favites brain, Favia brain, green star polyps,  torch coral, several mushrooms, finger leather, several unpurchased green sponges, Trochus snails and a queen conch.  Sorry if this was a little lengthy didn't want to leave anything out.  Thanks very much, Ryan Nienhuis (again).  Oh yes by the way I have included pictures of purchased Favia before and a couple of weeks after. <Thank you for this update. Bob Fenner>

Sick or just over-illuminated Faviid; neon green trumpet discoloration... a paucity of info.    7/1/06 Hello, I did a lot of searching and learned a lot I might add, but I could not find the answer to my question.  I have a fluorescent green trumpet.  Within the last few weeks the color has been changing a bit. I am starting to see brownish colored stripes going through them.  One of the heads has turned that brownish color.  It is not letting any mucous out.  I am unsure if this is still brown jelly disease or maybe a lighting issue. <More likely this last... where's info. re your water quality, history of maintenance, nutrition...?>   We have 5.4 watts per gal in a 72 gal tank and he is pretty high up, about 8 inches from the top.  If a pic is needed, let me know.  Thanks! Chris <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviiddisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Caulastrea - potential parasite  - 05/22/2006 Hello crew, <Bob... it's... Bob> I wanted to thank everyone for all the help I've received from reading you FAQs.  Finally, after 8 months in the hobby, I have a question that I can not find the answer to.  I purchased a Caulastrea coral about two weeks ago and the coral is currently in quarantine. <Good> All polyps seem to be doing well except for the one that is shown in the attached photo. <Great pic> Several times in the past two weeks I have noticed a brown substance being expelled from the malformed polyp, which I assumed to be Zooxanthellae. <Mmm, or just waste...> However, a few days ago I noticed what appeared to be a tube was protruding from the mouth of the polyp.  Also, although it can't be seen in the photo, I have noticed what appear to be two ~2mm long antennae protruding from the tube. Finally, unlike all other polyps this one has never extended its feeding tentacles at night. Any help you could give me about the nature of this potential parasite and any actions that could be taken to remove it would be much appreciated. Thank, Mark <Might be a boring organism... likely a worm/Polychaete, or possibly just the polyp recovering from collection, shipping trauma... I would continue your observation, finish the quarantine and place this animal. If it is indeed a parasite, space or more deleterious in nature, it will likely perish in time (and not reproduce) in your main system. Bob Fenner>

About trumpet coral... health, systems  - 05/20/2006 Hey guys, I bought a trumpet coral from my LFS (which I actually work at now) and it doesn't seem to be doing so hot.   It looks normal during the day, but never really fully expands.  At night it shows it sweeper tentacles and it eats regularly, but like I said it never fully expands and some of the polyps have some bone showing through the tissue.  Is there anything I can do to help him out.  By the way, my water tests 0 for Nitrite and Ammonia, Nitrate is less than 5 ppm and pH is around 8.2-8.3.  I dose Kalkwasser and I do regular water changes to keep up trace elements and add a little purple up also to help with that.  He is under 130 watts of power compacts about 4 or 5 inches from the surface.  Any advice would be awesome.   Thanks guys. <... I would take care re adding these adjuncts... do so in water to be changed out, that is pre-mixed, stored... And read here: http://www.google.com/custom?q=trumpet++coral+health&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com Bob Fenner>

Brown Jelly infection on candy cane? The Amazing Kreskin? Can't see this far, guess re system, history...  10/19/05 Hey guys,   <What about the ladies here?> I have a candy cane coral of which one polyp has brown filaments in the center.  Is this brown jelly? <... can't tell from here>   I recently lost a hammer coral to brown jelly and I'm afraid that it has spread in my tank.  If so, should I cut off the polyp or siphon it off? <... under what circumstances? Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/faviiddisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Disintegrating Candycane polyp 10/13/05 Hi All, I've had my 34 polyp Candycane now for approx. 1 1/2 years. Actually, polyp count was 24 when it was purchased and has since been splitting and looking really good. Within the last two weeks, I've noticed the outer edges on two polyps lose its fullness but not quite emaciated.  Then: 1) the mouths stayed open, 2) the center green flesh on one pulled away from the mouth causing a gaping hole and brown mesenterial filaments are showing.  The other polyp's brown outer flesh in one location has started to drip, taking with it two spines!  It just hangs from the polyp. I've checked the FAQ section and was unable to come up with an example of my problem. I would appreciate it if you could help me figure out what's going on with my beautiful Candycane before whatever it is affects the whole head. <Congrats on your success with this coral! What you are seeing has been described by other aquarists and seems to be a form of reproduction. Eventually, the "dripping" tissue will fall free from the parent polyp, and if they find (or are placed on) a suitable substrate, they will survive and grow.> Water parameters: SG 1.026, pH 8.1 (can't get it higher?), dKH 10.9, Alk. 3.66, CA 395 Nitrate 10, Nitrite 0, Amm 0, phos. 0. I do a 12 to 15 gal water change every week on my 55 gal. Thanks for your help. Lynn  <Keep up the good work! Best Regards. AdamC.>
Disintegrating Candycane polyps part 2 10/16/05
Hi Adam C, Thanks for the speedy reply and news that my Candycane is reproducing. How is that different from each polyp splitting itself in half to form new polyps other than maybe dripping forms new individual colonies?  <I don't know, and I don't think anyone else does. Some suspect that it is stress related.> Also, how about the polyp that developed a gapping hole around its mouth and one can see the mesenterial filaments inside? I can see a couple of spines inside the hole. Has this polyp had it? If so, should I cut that particular stalk away? Thanks again for your help. Lynn  <It is hard to guess if this is part of the same process or not. I would keep an eye on it. As long as it does not develop signs of any kind of infection (brown or white jelly like material), I would not worry about removing it. Best Regards. AdamC.>

Favia Brain Problem - 07/04/05 I have a very large Favia Brain.  I have had it for a very long time. <<Excellent>> Last night I noticed a couple of white, crusty like spots on it.  Tonight there seems to be a few more.  I touched the spots and they are hard.  What is it and what can I do? <<Mmm...hard to say really without seeing it.  May be exposed skeleton from some physical trauma (added any new fish/inverts?).>> I have metal halides and blue VHO light system.  Everything else seems to be okay.  Please advise ASAP. I added a few drops of Lugol's solution tonight. <<The iodine can be beneficial as an aid to healing if this is indeed an injury, but be "very" careful with the dosage.  Optimum water conditions/frequent water changes are also needed to help avoid secondary bacterial infections.>> Judy <<Eric R.>>

Bubble In The Candy Cane - 06/24/05 Hey guys how are you? <<Well...thank you.>> Well the last days in the reef have not been so great. <<uh oh>> First I came home and saw my yellow tang tail first caught in a power head! <<Curious, these fish are usually able to avoid such calamity.>> I did all I could but overtime stress got to him :(  Since my tang was a massive grazer my hair algae is starting to bloom! <<The tang was only treating the symptom.  Do look to your water quality/husbandry to determine/correct the problem.>> Now I  see my candy cane coral has a bubble in it!.....What else could happen? anyway, will my candy cane pass/expel this bubble or is this life threatening? <<Have experienced this in the past myself...the coral should absorb the bubble in time and will be fine.>> I have him under about 7 inches of water that's crystal clear due to carbon. My lighting isn't that powerful though I have 1 65 watt 7100K actinic and one 65 watt daylight. Please help I would hate to lose another inhabitant! <<No worries mate.>> thanks for your help, Aaron <<Regards, Eric R.>>

Candycane dying Hey guys, <Nilesh> I have 155 gal new tank established for the past 4 months with live, skimmer, 4-802 powerheads,  175 watt venture MH bulbs.  I bought this tank second hand and inherited a Candycane coral.   <Okay> For a while, about 2 months the coral was doing fine but lately I've noticed that the coral is bleaching.  Also the green pigmentation, I guess Zooxanthellae sort of split open.  Is this coral dying? <Doesn't sound/read as if it is well> Can I save it? <Probably> All my parameters are normal... salt, pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, temp.  The coral is placed in medium depth, no direct lighting, and medium flow.  I haven't really spot fed the coral...I thought that the light would provide enough food.  What do you think? <Lighting is not a sufficient source of nutrition for this species... a healthy refugium might supply other food... but...> The calcium may be the problem, it's 280.  I know that this is low but I'm having a hard time maintaining it at 400+.  I don't have a calcium reactor, so I've been  using Tropic Marin's Bio Calcium with trace elements.  Do you think that the low calcium/trace element level is causing the death or lack of growth? <Definitely is contributing to the poor health>   Since it's a new set up, I.e. it's still going through those awful algae phases...I'm at Cyano right now and the coral has quite a bit of hair algae on it.  I've tried to blow it off with a powerhead. it works but comes back... is this preventing the Zooxanthellae from taking in light?   <Among other ill-effects> Last question, I'm wondering why my levels of calcium has fluctuated from 400 to 280 in 2 weeks.  I've been doing 5% water changes and have been adding calcium. I'm guessing that the calcium is used up for coralline algae growth although I don't see any coralline at this time.  Pleas help...Any info would be appreciated Nilesh <These questions and the next several sets that you will have are posted on WWM... please take the time to read what is posted there re your species health, environment, feeding... calcium... And soon. Your system will fare better with your knowing what you're about here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Candycane dying
  Hey guys,   One more addition to the info which I left out.  I had a pink tip anemone in the tank which got crushed when a rock fell over it.  I wasn't sure if it was going to die so I watched it for a day.  The next day, it stunk!  I immediately threw it away.  Do you think that the anemone released toxins or waste that killed my Candycane?  I've tested the ammonia and it is less than 01.     The cane started dying a day later...   Nilesh <Definitely could be related... again, please stop spending your money experimenting... and read/study... these organisms cannot be successfully mixed, placed near each other. Bob Fenner>  

Favia sp. Tissue Recession 3.21.05 Hi, <Hello, Ryan with you> I've had this Favia for at least 6 months and in the last 4 weeks I've noticed tissue recession along the lower edges of the skeleton. Since noticing the tissue recession I have religiously made weekly water changes of 5-7 gallons, changed each lamp in the canopy and routinely added supplements (Iodide, Reef Complete, Reef Plus, Reef Trace, Seachem Calcium) and yet, the tissue recedes further. The tissue isn't receding all the way around the coral, only on the side nearest the a Sinularia and adjacent to the aquarium's back wall. <Sand bed creatures can also disturb a Favia that lives directly on the bed. Have you considered elevating the Favia a few inches with a few pieces of rubble?> I inherited this 75g tank from a friend in August '04. At the time, it was powered by only 120w of mixed fluorescents and had only the Sinularia and a Lemon peel tang. I've upgraded the canopy's lighting to 252W Fluorescent (96w PC 10K, 96w PC Actinic 03, 30w 20K and 30w Actinic 03). Filtration is wet/dry filter/sump and an AquaC 120 Skimmer (the skimmer is 2 weeks new and the system was run w/out a skimmer for at least two months prior to installing the AquaC 120. The tank came with a Sanders round hang on, but I could never adjust it correctly.). The tank has a thin crushed coral bed (up to 1" deep, large grain), and the lower portion of the sumps has Aragonite sand). <Okay> Current residents are: A small blue tang, one Ocellaris clown (the other went down the overflow box), 1 cleaner shrimp, several red leg hermits, a handful of snails (several varieties), Red-Orange w/ black speckles Fromia, and several small brittle stars (one of which resides inside the rock the Favia has encrusted). Cnidarians include: Entacmaea Quad (1), Trachyphyllia (1), Short tentacle Fungia (1), two rocks encrusted w/ green star polyps (small polyps), several colonies of Zoos, 1 rock covered w/ Parazoanthus, 6 Ricordea Yuma (5 added to tank on 03/18/05), 1 Ricordea floridae, 2 Rhodactis (added to tank on 03/18/05), several Discosoma Shrooms and 1 large rock covered with some type of soft coral. Water parameters are: Ammonia-Low, Nitrite-Low, Nitrate-Low, Calcium 430, Alk 12. Salinity 1.024-1.025 and PH 8.1-8.2 <What is low? No nitrite/ammonia should be present. If they are, even in trace amounts, it can be lethal to this type of animal.> What can I do to save this coral? <Give him a bit of a lift, and supplement his feeding with a weekly feeding. If you are having any ammonia/nitrite issues, these should be corrected ASAP. Good luck! Ryan>

Favia Tissue Recession pt. 2 ( 3.24.2005) Hello and thank you for the reply. <No problem! Ryan with you again.> The Favia is elevated at least 8" to 10" atop LR (has been so since purchasing it). <Nice> Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate test at 0. The Favia hasn't extended its tentacles in a long time (I'm up in early in the mornings before the lights come on and I haven't seen the tentacles in a long while, I assumed it was getting plenty of nutrients from the Zooxanthellae) and I've never been able to get a reaction from food while the lights are on (other than the polyps mouths opening very slightly). <Certainly a sign of stress. Keep the current higher in the area to dilute the chemical warfare, if any. Keep the water changes regular.> Is there any chance that my Sinularia or any of the polyps are having a chemical war at the Favia's expense? <Yes, it's a good possibility. Google allelopathy, and read up a bit. There are some easy ways to make nice! Good luck, Ryan> Thanks, Ken PS Should I increase wattage closer to 5w/gal? I'm currently @ 3.36 on a 24" tall aquarium. <If PC/VHO, yes. Metal Halide should be penetrating deep enough for a decent amount of usable light. Thanks, Ryan>

Brain coral  <Hello EAM917> We have a 46 gal reef tank which has been working for approx 7 months.  A few months ago we got a green brain coral.  It would change size during the course of the day and evening.  Usually large during the day and much smaller in the evening.<Sounds normal> During the past 3 or 3 days it has not changed size, it is small. The sides appear to have some white coloring which we have not seen before.<Sounds like bleaching> Do you have any idea what is happening and what we should do.<Several factors can cause this.  First, what kind of lighting are you using?  Do you feed your corals?  The hard corals of which the brain is a member of require very intense lighting of the proper spectrum to survive along with good water movement. Answer the questions I have asked and we can try to help you. James (Salty Dog)>Thanks Elizabeth
Re: Brain coral, health
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. <You're welcome Elizabeth> We have never heard of bleaching, what is it  & can it be corrected?<In a nutshell bleaching occurs when things are not to the corals liking>  We use a coral life Aqualight double strip 34 in 96 w Actinic and 96 w 10000k square bulb.  Water movement in the tank is good.  We are using flake food for the fish and were never told by the store to use anything else. They said they would get their food from this. Do you think this coral can be saved.<What is the height of your tank?  The PC lighting may not be intense enough for the brain coral.  Corals don't require feeding on a daily basis but a weekly feeding is good.  DT's phytoplankton is a good choice. As far as saving the coral, keep your lights on for 12 hours, replace the bulbs if they are over one year old, do 10% water changes weekly. There is no cure in a bottle that will save corals, just good sound maintenance of the aquarium is all you can do for now. James <Salty Dog)> (Thanks Elizabeth
Re: Brain coral, health
My husband said to tell you that the nitrite and ammonia is 0ppm however the nitrate is over 160ppm.  Would that stress it.<yes, corals do require pristine water quality.  This tells me you do not do 10% weekly water changes.  This helps reduce the nitrate level by dilution.>  He has put in a nitrate sponge<the nitrate sponge is fine but nitrates have to be controlled at the source of the problem or the levels will just return>in the filtering system to try to lower it earlier today and did a water change  6 days ago.  The water temp is 78. Thanks Elizabeth<James (Salty Dog)
Re: Brain coral
We have done 2 water changes and the levels are still high.  Any suggestions to lower it.  I was wondering, parts of the brain are looking better and are enlarging during the day.  You can see them moving or pulsing like water is going through them.  I don't know what actually causes that.  Other parts seem to have split  open and you see an off white color that appears skeletal.  Is there a possibility that parts will continue to live on the brain coral or is it just a matter of time before the entire brain changes to white.  If this happens is it dead ?  Thanks Elizabeth <Elizabeth, if you have a canister filter I would recommend you get some "Chemi-pure" and use this.  It is an excellent product for removing nutrients in the form that protein skimmers will not take out.  You do have a protein skimmer, correct?. James (Salty Dog) Re: Brain coral part 2 Sorry the mail somehow was sent.  I am bad on the computer. We did a water change again last night.  The brain is enlarging during the day but only is some sections.,  We can see is moving or pulsing like water is going through it.  Some parts seem to have split open and you see an off white color that appears skeletal.  Is there a possibility that parts will continue to live on the brain or is it just a matter of time before the entire brain changes to white.  If this happens is it dead.  Thanks Elizabeth <Hello Elizabeth, One thing you have to keep in mind with keeping hard corals, or anything marine for that matter is that weekly water changes (not just till things get better)  is one of the best things you can do for the overall health of the tank.  It not only removes nitrates etc. by dilution, but also replenishes traces elements that have been absorbed by the animals.  You will know when the brain is dead.  You will end up with a white skeleton.  These corals are not one of the easiest to keep.  The elegance or bubble corals are a little easier to maintain.  James (Salty Dog)
Re: Helping injured brain coral 1/12/04
This is for James, Salty Dog.  You have been helping me with a problem with the 46 gal reef tank.  I was just wondering if a brain coral could still live when a portion of it is damaged or will it eventually die? <Anthony Calfo with a contribution as well :) indeed, most any can survive and recover with adequate water quality (do not move the animal and stress with a change in light... provide good turbulent water flow but never laminar, etc.). The addition of small amounts of iodine (reef supplement) may be of some indirect benefit too. Feeding the coral with tiny bits of food (Mysids or Pacifica plankton... nothing larger) will be of tremendous help! 3-5 times weekly. Best of luck, Anthony>
Helping injured brain coral 1/12/04
This is for James, Salty Dog.  You have been helping me with a problem with the 46 gal reef tank.  I was just wondering if a brain coral could still live when a portion of it is damaged or will it eventually die? <Anthony Calfo with a contribution as well :) indeed, most any can survive and recover with adequate water quality (do not move the animal and stress with a change in light... provide good turbulent water flow but never laminar, etc.). The addition of small amounts of iodine (reef supplement) may be of some indirect benefit too. Feeding the coral with tiny bits of food (Mysids or Pacifica plankton... nothing larger) will be of tremendous help! 3-5 times weekly. Best of luck, Anthony>

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