 |
|
| Home | Marine Aquariums |
Freshwater Aquariums |
Planted Aquariums |
Brackish Systems |
Ponds,
lakes & fountains |
Turtles & Amphibians |
Aquatic Business |
Aquatic Science |
Ask the WWM Crew a Question |
| Please visit our Sponsors | ||||
Problem with Leopard Wrasse. Poisoned with antibio./Algicide use
6/6/18 Leopard wrasse, Hlth.
9/23/10 Leopard Wrasse- Maintaining Established
Circadian Rhythm 1/30/2010 Leopard Wrasse Success, hlth.
f' 8/3/09 Leopard Wrasse, Pseudocheilinus
incomp. -- 04/12/09 Macropharyngodon Acclimation (Where did it
go?) -- 04/08/09 Female Percula vs. Female Leopard
Wrasse...help! 3/27/2009 Leopard Wrasse Compatibility, ScottF 11/29/08 Hi, <Hey there! Scott F. in this evening/morning!> I have two beautiful Macropharyngodon bipartitus, both are eating well. <Wow- Quite an accomplishment. Many folks are not as successful in getting these beautiful fishes to eat> One resides in my 75g reef tank, and the other in my refugium because they refuse to coexist. I bought two because they didn't have three at the store. I have about 125 lbs. of live rock with plenty of places to hide, and a three to six inch deep sand bed. I have read that Leopard Wrasses do better in groups, and I want to keep them as such. <They can do well in groups, but typically, you'd want a group of one male to several females. Most of the time, males will fight when housed together. I'd hazard a guess that you have two males, based on their inability to co-exist peacefully.> I just wanted to see what you guys think before I take the plunge and get another one. It's hard enough catching one, and I don't want to have to catch two. It seems like the only corals that I knock over, or break, are my favorites. <Boy, can I relate to that issue!> Should I risk it and get another, or should I trade one off due to the fragile nature of this fish? <Well, if it were me, I'd be inclined to keep just the one that you already have in the display. If you must get more, I would purchase at least two more. However, I believe that your aquarium is too small to effectively house a larger population of these fishes. They would need more physical space and the foraging opportunities that a larger system can provide.> Thanks, Jeff <My pleasure, Jeff. Enjoy the beautiful specimens that you have! Regards, Scott F.> Macropharyngodon bipartitus, RMF go 11/29/08 Hi, <Jeff> I have two beautiful Macropharyngodon bipartitus, both are eating well. One resides in my 75g reef tank, and the other in my refugium because they refuse to coexist. <Mmm, happens... perhaps both are too close to being male...> I bought two because they didn't have three at the store. I have about 125 lbs. of live rock with plenty of places to hide, and a three to six inch deep sand bed. I have read that Leopard Wrasses do better in groups, <Mmm, no... not expressly... sub-adults, initial phase individuals are sometimes encountered as such in the wild, but never terminal phase/males... and if a male is present, female/s "lag" behind quite a distance (larger than any hobbyist system)... Leopard wrasses can be kept as a "pair" with one determinant terminal phase individual IF there is sufficient room... but generally with only one initial phase specimen...> and I want to keep them as such. I just wanted to see what you guys think before I take the plunge and get another one. <I would not do this... unless it were a very young initial/juvenile phase indiv. AND you had a much larger system (at least six feet long, 150 gal.s or so... or bigger)> It's hard enough catching one, and I don't want to have to catch two. It seems like the only corals that I knock over, or break, are my favorites. Should I risk it and get another, or should I trade one off due to the fragile nature of this fish? <I'd do the latter> Thanks, Jeff <Welcome. Bob Fenner> Leopard Wrasse Compatibility 2/23/09 Hello Crew, I asked you guys a question about Leopard Wrasse compatibility a few months ago. I had two Macropharyngodon bipartitus that refused to coexist. <How big a tank? Two males?> One was in the display, the other was in the refugium. I neglected to mention they were both about 2 inches, both female. <Oh!> I was getting ready to upgrade to a 180g to maintain multiple specimens. I installed an AquaC EV-180 on my 75g "Sps" reef. I purchased more rock. I ordered a bunch of frags to grow out. I stumbled on a Macropharyngodon geoffroyi that was eating, at my LFS too. I decided to introduce it to my display along with the wrasse from my sump. It worked! There was very little aggression at first, now there is none. Sorry if it sounds like I disregarded your advice, I would have upgraded that week if I had to. I value your opinions. Back when I first put in the two M. bipartitus, I put the most aggressive one in the sump. They were separated about a month, and the one in the display doubled in size. The one in the fuge didn't grow at all. I guess it was the small space, because there was plenty of food. I am still going to upgrade. Maybe next week, maybe next year, whenever I find a deal that I can't pass up. In the meantime, I want to keep stocking my current tank. I currently have a Paracentropyge multifasciata, and the 3 Leopard Wrasses. Would it be risky to add a Siganus unimaculatus to my current tank? <Mmm the 75? If it's small...> I'm worried my angel might get too close to the spines when it tries to show the new guy that he's the boss. If something happened to it I would die. I also want to add a Pseudochromis fridmani, but I can wait until I get a bigger tank if I must. I don't want to mess up my equilibrium. The stock list for the big tank is: Paracentropyge multifasciata Macropharyngodon bipartitus x 2 Macropharyngodon geoffroyi Chelmon rostratus Pseudochromis fridmani Pseudanthias bartlettorum x 5 I want more than that in there, that's just the must haves. <This is about "all full up" psychologically/behaviorally> I will probably add some Fairy Wrasses to the list. I may substitute a Forcipiger flavissimus for the C. rostratus, depends on availability when I take the plunge. Do you have any suggestions on anything I could add now? <Yes. Nothing> I don't like Tangs. I have read pretty much every book I can read on the hobby, and researched until I felt like I had sand in my eyes. I just want some opinions from outside of Memphis, there isn't much variety here. Thanks for all of your help. Jeff Crowder <Keep saving, planning for that larger system. Bob Fenner> Blue Star Leopard Wrasse... misplaced 10/3/08 I purchased a Blue Star Leopard Wrasse yesterday afternoon from my LFS. <Mmmm, Macropharyngodon bipartitus... not a species, genus easily kept...> They had just gotten the shipment in that morning. <Ah, and not a good practice to buy such touchy animals on their arrival> I acclimated it slowly, and once added to the main tank it immediately hid behind some rocks. <Natural behavior> A few hours later I dropped in a frozen brine shrimp cube, <Mmm, not a food I would use regularly> which enticed him to come out for a few moments and eat one lonely shrimp before burying himself in the sand where he has been ever since. <Again, typical> When it was swimming about, however, I noticed that it's top fin had a split in it, like it was torn from the top of the fin all the way to it's body. It didn't seem to be having trouble swimming, but it was only visible for a minute or two. Should I be worried? <Re?> I have had my 38 gallon tank <Too small for this genus> running for around 6 weeks <And too new> and I have 2 Ocellaris Clowns, 1 Sally Lightfoot Crab, <Predaceous> 2 what I believe to be turbo snails, and several Blue Leg Hermits. I purchased the tank that had just been broken down about a week earlier with established live sand and a couple pieces of live rock. I used RO water to fill the tank and lots of fully cured Fiji live rock which has some beautiful mushrooms on it that I didn't know about! I checked my nitrate levels often and slowly began adding inhabitants once they leveled off (only took about 3 weeks). The Ocellaris clowns have been healthy and eating fine, as well as the inverts. I plan to stock copepods and feed live shrimp. Hope this is enough info! =) <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/macropharyngodonfaqs.htm and the linked files above. I do hope this wrasse "surfaces"... but its chances of living in this setting are vanishingly small. I strongly encourage you to read (quickly), and return this fish to the store. Bob Fenner> Leopard Wrasse…Bare-Bottom Quarantine? (Absolutely Not!) - 08/21/08 Hey Guys! <<Hey Jenna!>> I am planning on getting a leopard wrasse from a trans-shipper. <<Mmm, a difficult fish to keep. A very poor shipper…but admittedly, is quite hardy once acclimated/feeding in my experience. Though this is not to be taken as an endorsement for the inexperienced and those unwilling to take special measures to try to keep this fish>> I know these guys are hard to get onto frozen but I am up for the challenge! <<Feeding is certainly a challenge…but so many of these fish simply do not survive the collection and transport process, period. I've seen entire shipments (retail facility) perish within a day or two. And those shipments that didn't totally perish usually suffered at least 50% mortality. I would discourage all but the most advanced hobbyist from attempting this fish…and even then, much is in the hands of the collector/shipper re this fish's chances for survival>> My question is I have a 10 gallon QT tank, which is bare. <<Totally unsuitable here/for this fish. If you do go through with attempting this fish, I strongly suggest you place it straight away in the display…which is hopefully a mature system of some size with a deep bed of fine substrate and a good population of small crustaceans supported by an in-line refugium>> I know the wrasse like to bury itself in the sand, would adding PVC pipes and a maybe a cave of some sort help? <<Nope>> I do not want to add sand to the QT tank but I want this fish to survive as well. <<Read all you can re this genus of fish (Macropharyngodon)…here's a place to start (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macropharyngodon.htm), continuing among the associated links in blue. Do also search other sites for info on this genus. If you have time/resources/the discipline to prepare, the most successful "receiving" system I've seen for these fish was a 60g tank (you could get by with a 20g-30g for a single specimen for the short-term) in the back room of a retail facility that had been set up with a 5" deep bed of sugar-fine sand and a VERY DENSE growth of Caulerpa macro-algae (C. Mexicana). The tank had initially been left to run fishless for a couple months before the first fish was introduced, and fed daily to foster large populations of food organisms. The Leopard Wrasse would dive immediately in to the sand upon introduction and wouldn't reemerge for up to several days (assuming any survived the shipping process). Upon reappearing, the wrasse would have plenty to feed upon, initially, from the available biota in/on the sand bed and macro-algae. The dense growth of Caulerpa also allowed the fish to "hide out" from onlookers and each other. After a few more days of settling in, the wrasse would be offered New Life Spectrum pellets a couple times a day. Most all the fish that took to the pellets survived and even thrived…those that did not take to the pellets usually perished in short order. Take what you want from that, but based on what I already know and have seen and/or experienced first-hand re this food…I encourage you to use the Spectrum food as well>> Thanks in advance! Jenna Adams <<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
One fish that's barely alive!!!!! Help! Leopard wrasses, beh., fdg. 02/27/2008 Last month we bought a Macropharyngodon meleagris wrasse. It then disappeared for I don't know how long. Presuming that it had swum into an anemone, we went out on Sunday and bought two Macropharyngodon geoffroy. When they were introduced to the main aquarium, the pair swam about. When I put my hand in to clean the tank they bolted into the sand. No one saw them at all on Monday, that is until I tore the take apart. <<Yes, I can understand this, its their self defense mechanism which is to bury themselves in the substrate. What size of tank is this and how long has it been running?>> I was cleaning the gravel under the larger anemone's rock, when the supposedly dead wrasse flew out of the sand like it was being chased by the devil. It was barley thicker than three pieces of paper. Then it dove behind the largest rocks and into the sand. I frantically drained half of the tank, put the corals and coral covered rocks into the other aquarium. I got all of the fish out, and began my search for the three leopards. Once everything was back to normal, I tried to feed the starved leopard. It ate one Mysis shrimp. I then resorted to a trick that always works. To weak to swim away, I used my gloved hand to hold the fish. Using a needleless injector, I placed the wrasse's mouth to the injector, and fed it daphnia. It ate, it was almost like feeding a baby dolphin. But I have no idea what it does want to eat. The guy at the store fed the fish flakes. But how can I feed them, if they never come out? <<With this fish, its a case of do whatever it takes to feed until it has generated enough strength to do this for itself. These fish should only be introduced into a "very" well established full reef which has a refugium. These feed on natural foods from the sandbed like pods etc etc..If you can get this to readily accept prepared foods, then all the better, however, I would not solely rely on this as its food source>> <<Thanks for the questions and good luck with these "very" delicate species. A Nixon>>
Re: Leopard Wrasse in Sand Bed for Extended Period - 12/17/07 I was very happy, I saw him swimming around this morning and he even ate. <<Very good to know>> By the way I got it from the pet shop I work at so I observed him for over two weeks to make sure he ate and was healthy <<Excellent>> Thanks for the tips though. Thomas <<Thank you for the update. Regards, EricR>> Macropharyngodon bipartitus (Blue Star Leopard Wrasse) Leopard Wrasse- In A Refugium? 11/26/07 Hi Everyone, <Hiya! Scott F. in today!> I've been reading through your site for a long time and found it to be a great help. I have a 90 gallon SPS/LPS display tank with a 30 gallon sump and a 36 gallon refugium. As of right now, the refugium has 20 lbs of live rock, a deep sand bed, and assortment of various macroalgae. I've been looking into adding a fish into the refugium. I was wondering how a Blue Star Leopard wrasse would work in the fuge. I have searched many sites regarding this wrasse, half of the sites state that this fish cannot live in a tank smaller than a 50 gallon and others say no less than a 30 gallon. Is it the total volume of water in the system or the overall swimming space? Being the system has more than enough volume of water for this in particular fish, Will this work out ok or am I better off looking into some other fish? Thank you very much! Erika <Well, Erika, it's not so much a function of physical space with this species. Yes, it needs ample room- but "space", in this example, is more of a measure of the ability of a system to support the fish's nutritional needs. Larger systems typically generate larger populations of natural food supplies (i.e.; copepods, amphipods, Mysis, etc.). The real challenge with the Leopard Wrasses is supplying them with the quantity and type of foods that they need. You might be able to get them to take prepared foods, which is a plus. However, if they need to depend on natural food sources, at least at the start, an established system of decent size is a plus. Another thought that I had: The function of a refugium is to provide a source of nutrient export/processing for the display aquarium, and to supplement the display with natural foods. As such, you want to maximize this potential productivity by eliminating predators form the refugium! Why would you want to diminish this process by placing a (predatory) fish in there? A healthy foraging Leopard Wrasse can have a significant impact on the refugium's total productivity. Better to see if the fish can be accommodated in your display aquarium. If you're up for the challenge, this fish can be a spectacular addition to your system. Select a healthy specimen, acclimate and quarantine carefully, and you may enjoy great success! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Macropharyngodon kuiteri-- anyone? 9/9/07 Hi Bob and Co., <Art> What do you know about Macropharyngodon kuiteri, one of the Leopard Wrasses? <Mmm, nada... looks like it was named in honor of Rudie... Likely similar in care, lack of hardiness as the other Leopard Wrasses> The only information I can find is that it seems to be smaller than other members of the family (10cm, about 4" if I did my conversion correctly), which is good, and that it comes from deeper waters than other members of the family, so it may have different feeding habits. <Mmm, again, doubtful> Of course, I'm hoping that you know all about this fish, and that 'different' means 'easier to keep' (but I think I know better!) Thanks in advance, Art <Have never seen this fish... above or below water: http://fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=13141&genusname=Macropharyngodon&speciesname=kuiteri Our brief coverage of the genus here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macropharyngodon.htm and the linked Related FAQs file above. Bob Fenner> Blenny questions--oh, and a wrasse/mandarin question! Comp. Ecsenius, Macropharyngodon, 4/10/07 Good morning and thank you for your wonderful site. I have just spent a couple of hours reading but I am a little anxious still, so thought I would ask you directly. I ordered a Tailspot blenny( Ecsenius stigmatura) and was sent a bicolor blenny instead. <The most common species...> They will send me the Tailspot soon, but in the meantime, I have to decide what to do with the bicolor. It is currently in my little 14 gallon Nano with two pearly Jawfish and a hi-fin banded goby. <Mmm... not compatible here> I know he can't stay there. I would like to put him in my 7 year old 150 gallon reef, but I have a large Midas blenny in there and I have had him several years. <Might go in this sized volume...> He swims with my Lyretail Anthias school <Neat! What this species does in the wild...> and ignores everyone else, (except very occasionally my flame Hawkfish, not fond of him) but this is another blenny. <Yes... of the same genus> Once the bicolor goes in, I can't retrieve him. The midas has one little hole that is his special favorite (to the point that he deliberately knocked a coral fragment off--I watched him do --that I placed near his cave) so as long as the bicolor avoids that...... Is it worth a try? <A tough question... I would likely give this fish away ahead of risking real aggression in your 150... And I want to mention I would not place the other Ecsenius in the small tank either...> Secondly, I lost my green mandarin after 5 years and so I bought another very large female mandarin recently. I have a spotted female already (this is in the 150 gallon) and I had read that females get along. (My previous green was a male. ) Well, it turned out I didn't have to worry about the spotted mandarin, because my ornate wrasse just attacked the new mandarin mercilessly, buffeting her and feinting at her, as though biting--it was constant. The strange thing is that the mandarin acted as though nothing was happening <A strategy of the species... plus their slime is unpalatable...> and yet the harassment was so vicious and so consistent that I knew she couldn't eat or settle at all. (The wrasse wouldn't even come away from her to eat! and he is a pig.) I also know that although he didn't appear to be actually biting her, no obvious wounds) he does have some teeth and it did seem that the blows from his body would evidently do damage. This shocked me because the wrasse has never been a issue with anything, even all the shrimp and snails. I couldn't catch the wrasse but I did manage somehow to catch the mandarin and I threw her in my 29 gallon Nano. I know you will say she can't stay there, but is there some way I could feed her from the rotifers in the 150 's refugium? <Yes> I feed very well, and very diversely and there is plenty of live rock and corals in there. (The Nano is a 3 year old established tank with a small fairy wrasse, a six-line wrasse and a orange spotted shrimp goby with his pistol shrimp ) Patiently awaiting your scolding on the mandarin/Nano issue and your advice on the blenny. :) <Heeee! I wish you were in our neighborhood, so we could visit, I could see your systems> Thank you very much, Jeanne <Bob Fenner> APOLOGY AND CLARIFICATION Hello there, I just sent an e-mail about blennies (and a second question about my mandarin) and I need to clarify. I apparently do NOT have a bicolor blenny that I need to place but a "flametail" listed on their site as Atrosalarias sp. (Does NOT look at all like a lawnmower blenny. Has a small Ecsenius head and body and is dark, almost black with a yellow tail. ) Should be less of a problem since it is not an Ecsenius? Or is this a more aggressive fish? Jeanne Brown <Actually, the chances of avoiding WWIII are greatly diminished with this change... This is the species I take it: http://www.vividaquariums.com/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=01-1629-10 I give you good odds that the current Ecsenius will leave this fish alone... now, about that offending Labrid... Bob Fenner> Leopard and Fairy Wrasse Together? - 03/10/07 comp., sel.
Hope all is well crew. <<Doing fine, thank you>> My
question for today is would a leopard wrasse get along with my yellow
sided fairy wrasse. <<Is likely, yes>> The tank is a 90
gallon reef. <<Too small really...do you have a large and mature
in-line refugium to help provide a ready supply of foodstuffs for these
little understood and often quite difficult to feed fishes?>> I
really like the potters leopard wrasse. <<A beautiful
fish>> But all are Beautiful. <<Indeed>> What Leopard
would you suggest? <<None are easy...all are delicate shippers
and fussy to get to feed. The majority (80%?...maybe more?)
don't survive more than a week or so after capture. If
you can find one that is already feeding on Mysis and/or New Life
Spectrum pellets (the latter is important for long-term health in my
experience) then you may have a chance of keeping one of these amazing
fishes alive. But if you have any doubts...either in the
health/vitality of the fish or your ability to provide for its
long-term well-being...do please pass it up for a more suitable
species. Regards, EricR>> Splendid Leopard Wrasse 10/27/06 Hi there <Hello> I am thinking of getting a bigger tank and was just wondering how hard splendid leopard wrasses are to obtain, look after and feed. <Toward the ends of the scale for marine fishes... not easy> I have been reading about them but have not found much concrete info. <... please see WWM re the genus Macropharyngodon> I really want one of these spectacular fish. Could it be housed in a 80 gallon tank if I provide it with three inches of sand bed and plenty of live rock, live sand, an abundance of copepods and other peaceful tankmates. <Mmmm, maybe> Also I was wondering whether tangs in general are aggressive or would harass other fish such as the splendid leopard wrasse. <... see WWM re...> Thank you for all of your help from Viv <BobF> Goby and wrasse questions... Champagne livestock tastes, Bud tank 8/23/06 Hi. <Hey there!> I have a 45 gallon tank with the following critters - a clownfish (currently residing in an anemone), firefish goby, pajama cardinal, diamond sand goby, scarlet cleaner shrimp, some Christmas tree rocks, some coral frags, some snails and a scarlet legged cleaner crab. I saw a beautiful fish the other day, the store rep said it was an African Aurora Goby which I think is called Amblyeleotris aurora?) <Maybe> and he priced it at $80. <Man! I got out of the fish collection biz much too soon!> I looked on an internet site and saw something very similar but it was called a Pinkbar goby (for $30), and it was listed as originating from either Indo Pacific or Maldives, aka Cryptocentrus aurora. They look so similar to me, is there any difference? <Mmm, nope... try putting both names into fishbase.org...: http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=12694&genusname=Amblyeleotris&speciesname=aurora is the same species... is an Amblyeleotris> And is there a difference between the Indo Pacific one and the Maldives one? <Mmm, maybe slight geographic variation in color, markings... and likely cost... the further away... the higher> Also, are they hard to keep, and will there be any compatibility problems with my current fish? <Your 45 may be too small to provide sufficient habitat for this shy species to "feel comfortable"... Do you intend to supply an appropriate Alpheid symbiont? I also saw a lovely leopard wrasse; again, would there be any compatibility or feeding problems with this fish? Thanks for your time, Ak <I would not encourage someone to try a genus Macropharyngodon Labrid in such a setting. Bob Fenner> Reclusive Leopard Wrasse... I just purchased a leopard wrasse. Everything seemed to be going well for the first hour or so then I noticed my red spotted Hawkfish starting to get a little territorial and chase a little. <Unfortunately, this is not uncommon behavior for the Hawkfish...These guys share common niches, and there will be some initial squabbling. Is this after you quarantined the fish? Please do quarantine all new acquisitions in the future, for the health of your new and existing inhabitants...Quarantine is especially useful for finicky eaters like Leopard Wrasses, which are often malnourished from the rigors of capture and shipping. If nothing else, quarantine serves as a "hardening" period for them.> I proceeded to try to remove the Hawkfish for a short period until the wrasse could get acclimated but I could not catch the fish. I returned a few hours later and have not seen the wrasse in about 8 hours. I checked behind the tank and no luck. I have a glass top that covers all but about an inch and a half of the back where the return exits the tank. Any recommendations? Do they have a tendency to bury for a period before getting acclimated enough to come out or do you think the Hawkfish has driven it crazy? Thanks, Chris <Actually, Chris, these wrasses are known for literally burying themselves in the sand for extended periods of time while acclimating to a new situation. They are notoriously reclusive at first, but will "come around" over time, once they feel comfortable and are aware of no threats. Do keep an eye peeled. Again, because of the relatively delicate nature of these fish, quarantine really helps. Not everyone is successful with them. For more information, do read up on the WWM site about these fish. I also recall an excellent article about them in a past issue (like 2-3 years ago) of Advanced Aquarist online magazine that had some great insight into their care. If you can meet their special needs, these are wonderful, unique fishes! Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.> Doomed leopard wrasses? hi everybody, I think the leopard wrasses, especially the guinea fowl wrasse is super beautiful. however, after reading your description it sounds kind of like they are similar to mandarins: very difficult to keep. I have a 125 gallon reef. I don't have a mandarin because I just don't like keeping anything I can't feed. I just don't want to rely on my reef to supply all their food. do leopards eat frozen food, etc? if they do, do you think they would mix well with a solar fairy wrasse and a tricolor fairy wrasse? ps. tell Anthony I am eagerly awaiting his next book thanks, john Kim ***Hi John, Some people have success with this fish, but not enough for me to feel comfortable recommending one for your tank. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the reasons why. There are so many beautiful, hardy fishes that do well in our tanks, no reason to take chances on a fish that in all probability will not adapt. Regards Jim*** Macropharyngodon ornatus - Telling male from female Hi, Can you tell me if there is a way to differentiate male from female Ornate Leopard Wrasses, Macropharyngodon ornatus? I checked the WWM FAQs and found a great picture of my wrasse in Bob Fenner's article "Leopard Wrasses, the Genus Macropharyngodon". It looks exactly like the lower of the 2 pictures of the M. ornatus. I've also found information on how to tell the difference between male and female M. meleagris, but can't seem to find the same information for M. ornatus. Thanks for your help. Joe Jankauskis <Dr. Randall's got a pic ob both sexes on Fishbase.org: http://www.fishbase.org/Photos/ThumbnailsSummary.cfm?ID=12724 Males are decidedly a bit more drab here. Bob Fenner> Mixing Leopards Hello! <Hi there> First, a thanks to Bob for speaking to SCMAS last Friday night. I'm the guy with the Multibar angel that shared a table briefly before the talk, which was very informative by the way. <And very enjoyable for me> Anyway, I have recently become enamored with the idea of keeping several different Macropharyngodon species together, specifically M. ornatus, M. geoffroy, M. negrosensis and M. meleagris. Some preliminary research indicates that this is possible provided that there is only one male in the tank. So I have a couple of questions that some of you may be able to help answer: <Okay> Is it best to get several smaller fishes and place them in the tank together at the same time? Basically juveniles? <I would think so... though you are likely very aware that the wrasses of this genus are hard to ship, restore to health from collection, keep period... smaller ones even harder> What is the approximate size limit of a juvenile Macropharyngodon? <Anything under about three inches total length in my estimation.> Assuming that the tank will have a productive refugium, what size tank would you recommend for 4 or 5 leopards in this arrangement? <At least eighty gallons> Also, there are a couple of wrasses that look similar Macropharyngodon, but aren't. I think Halichoeres such as ornate/Christmas and dusky wrasses. How would these guys do in there with the Macropharyngodon? Or would it be the same, there could be only one male? <I would skip on similar appearing fishes> Finally, would they be OK with a small harem (1 male and 2-3 females) of fairy wrasses in the same tank? Would there be aggression issues between the male Macropharyngodon and male Cirrhilabrus? <Not directly, except for food usage, but much better to look outside the Labrids is my guess> Thanks for you time, I appreciate it. Mike <Thank you for writing in with your interesting speculations, plans. Bob Fenner> Macropharyngodon ornatus wrasse Hi, guys, <Hello> Curious about your thoughts on a Macropharyngodon ornatus. I know this genus is very temperamental. My LFS has one in their main show tank and is willing to trap it for me. It has been in their reef show tank several weeks and came from a hobbyist's tank where it had been established for some time (about one year I believe, maybe more). It was out and about, no damage, no signs of starvation. These are a beautiful wrasse as you know but they have such an abysmal track record from what I can tell. My tank is a 55G reef with my H. crispa, soft corals, modest fish load. The one likely problem fish is a Halichoeres melanurus which is a very peaceable fish but as it is about the same size and type coloration of the M. ornatus, it would seem risky. <Yes> I guess this is an elaborate way for you to confirm I shouldn't get this fish :-( but these are one of my favorites and I always told myself I'd consider it if an established one came out of someone's tank. What do you think? Pass on it? I've had the H melanurus for some time so I'm not going to trap him to swap him out (seems kind of heartless ;-) Thanks, Marc <Only way to find out... wish the tank were larger, absent the Halichoeres wrasse, but the Leopard does sound like a winning specimen. Bob Fenner> Blue Linckia, leopard wrasses and angels Good evening Bob! <cheers, bub... Anthony Calfo in your service> Well, I know you've probably heard this a hundred times now.... I bought something for once without doing any research, a blue Linckia~ I was at a wholesalers and it was $5 and I've always wanted one. <impulse and cheap price... a recipe for death> Don't shoot me! <oops...sorry. I jumped the gun on the harassment> As soon as I put it in the tank it promptly disappeared into the woodwork, "Great! I just bought a lovely blue star that I'll never see!" hehe. <or worse... it will starve, dwindle and die back in the rockwork and wipe out the while tank when you go on vacation. Have a nice Holiday! <G>> He's being more social nowadays and hanging around the clams. (Been in the tank about 2 weeks now) I read the FAQs and he's relatively healthy, he was kind of a grey/blue when I bought him, but he's not "cob webbing" or anything. Ok, my question is do they have any food requirements other than detritus and micro creatures? <wow... these starfish like most sea stars need a lot of food. If you do not/cannot target feed them weekly if not daily, then they need very large aquariums (over 100 gallons) and very mature displays (well over 1 year old with a lot of live rock). Else they will slowly starve over a period of months like most. Surely not to live beyond one year, I am truly sorry to say> Currently he's in one of the most beautiful/healthy 58gal tanks in Miami that has been established for over 5 years. ;] It has a 3"+ fine sand bed, tons of little benthic critters, etc. <awesome... the maturity of the tank is a tremendous help. Still... spatially... it is a bit small in surface area to sustain this deposit feeder. Especially if you have any blennies, gobies, tangs, etc that graze the rock competitively> Other than fish food (Spirulina flakes and pellets) I feed the tank Dt's concentrated plankton every other night, which the brittle stars seem to love. Also, are Linckias nocturnal? <yes> It doesn't seem to move around during the day at all, like the brittle stars. Is it normal for Linckias to stay in the same position for a day and a half or more? <common for imported ones...duress> Do they feed on diatoms that accumulate on the glass as well as feeding on stuff in the sand? <not only diatom algae per se> His suckers seem to be in good shape, nothing looks irregular. <good to hear... a good sign> Just they move really slowly, so a person tends to worry. <understood> And he doesn't seem to get all excited like the brittle stars when I add plankton. ;] <true... he is a strict detritivore... no suspension feeding at all> On another note, (thanks for reading all this, I have a special skill at rambling!) would a leopard wrasse and a yellow Coris wrasse be compatible? <likely not... and you truly must avoid putting a leopard wrasse in a tank this small. They are categorically very difficult to sustain for more than a year or two. Best success is in huge aquaria (over 200 gall) with few other fishes> And would they be compatible with a bicolor blenny? <stick with the yellow Coris and you will likely be fine... although there is always a chance of territorial aggression from the blenny> (My bi-color is currently in my 10gal Nano, where he is king, I can't wait to see his expression when I put him in the 58g that I'll be moving to once my boyfriend has the 75g setup, Heehee Two reefers living under the same roof is a dangerous combination. ;]). Also, are Rusty Angels reef safe, hardy, okay for keeping w/ above mentioned fish? <now that's a hardy choice :) Seriously... a fine angel. Reasonably hardy and easy to feed... tends to be long-lived in captivity. As far as reef safe... eh... as reef safe as dwarf angels get (nibbler)> If so, should I keep a pair or single? Okay, that's it I swear!! <oh... you are headed for a smack <G>. You do recall that you have a 58 gallon aquarium, don't you :) > Oh, can you sex bicolors? <is this a trick question... Ok, I'll bite: yes... the male is the one wearing the smoking jacket and the female wears a silk Kimono> The males are so pretty during mating time. <OK> Thanks so much for everything, I think you guys are awesome and I hope to know as much as you do someday. Sweet dreams~ Morgan Moore <ha! Thank you for putting up with the wise guy in your luck if the draw. Best regards, my friend> |
|
|
Features: |
|
| Featured Sponsors: |
