- Setting Dual Heater/Chiller Controller -
How are you Gents... <Fine, thank you.> Thanks for reading... question is regarding my temp control. I have a pacific coast chiller 1/4 HP with its own built in digital temp control... and my 500 watt Gen x titanium heater also with its own temp control (dial) the heater also has a temp probe that is supposed to be submersed... I want to hook both of these units up to my 3 digit dual stage medusa controller... my question is since all items have their own temp control built in what do I set each one on... <Set the heater and chiller to full on, and let the medusa regulate between the two. Alternatively - and especially if you want a margin of error - set the heater just below the low point on your Medusa, and set the chiller to just above the high point of the Medusa, and this way if the Medusa fails, you won't be without heating or chilling.> and also being that the medusa has a temp probe to be submersed do I need to use the one on the heater...? <Either way, and especially if you want the heater to "work", then yes, all temperature probes should be in the water.> thanks for your time guys....
<Cheers, J -- >

- False Reading on pH Monitor -
Hi gang:
I've been running a pinpoint pH monitor for the past few months and generally love it... but a couple weeks ago I noticed a strong upward trend in my pH readings. The readings got to the 'YIKES' range... and I was trying to sort things out when I noticed an extremely tiny 'Lo Bat' message in the upper left corner. A slapped in a new 9 volt battery... and found my pH in the usual range, fortunately before attempting a massive/drastic fix. So I figured I'd offer my experience to others as something to watch out for... <Indeed, and thanks for sharing. Would also add to your list of things to check, to remove the probe from the tank from time to time and allow to rinse in some fresh water, distilled or RO/DI to allow the probe to live a little longer.> Maybe they should've arranged for the pH reading to 'flash' or for the gizmo to just stop working once power drops below where it needs to be... <I'm sure it would have stopped working soon enough. No worries - you've sorted it out now. Cheers, J -- >

Hello and Thanks again...quick question 5/31/04
I have included some photos this time to aid you in visualizing the tank  setup so you can help me out.....Thanks for taking the time...First question is about auto top off....what is the correct way to do it on a 120 gal. reef and what is the best equipment to do it with...ro/di Tunze osmolator etc? ro/di to storage container with float valve? Then Tunze osmolator hooked to storage tank and display or sump to activate auto top off?
<I am not a big fan of auto top off devices because of the risk of failure.  I would suggest that whatever delivery method you choose that the water be drawn from a reservoir.  This will limit the amount of water that can run into your system at once if the device sticks open.>
Also the second question is about pump sizing...I have included the pictures for this purpose....
<Your pic was not attached, but I will try to do my best without it.>
The return pumps... I will have 2...one for each side of the tank and I am looking for 1500 to 1700 gph total between both of them...
<Good plan.  Having two pumps offers a nice measure of safety if one fails.>
From each pump the return line runs up through the custom overflow box with dual 1 1/2 Durso standpipes (o.d) into a "T" connector one output runs along the upper portion of the tank to the top right rear corner with a ball valve attached to regulate flow....the other part of the t runs down the outside of the overflow box and to the front bottom corner ...second return pump repeats the same sequence on the left side of the tank. (see attached photos)
<I think I understand your description.  Be sure that you place at least one outlet very near the surface of the water.  This outlet will allow air to enter and prevent siphoning back to your sump if the pump stops.>
taking into consideration the return line layout (3/4 " pvc) what pump would reliably give me the output for that side of the tank to reach a combined total of 1500 to 1700 gph..
<Many submersible or external pumps will fit the bill.  Look for models in the 1000 gph range each to get your desired flow after frictional and head losses.  I am a big fan of Iwaki and GRI for external pumps and Mag-drive and the new Quiet-One for submersibles.>
and also how can I stop the tank from draining if the pump fails being that two outputs will be in each front lower corner?  Thank you for your time...
<See my comments above about placing outlets near the surface.  Best Regards.  Adam>

Heater/Controller Compatibility
Bob,
<Scott F. here today!>
I have a Custom Sea Life 1/3hp chiller with the two stage controller. As I know they are out of business it has been a bit difficult to get information about the product. I also need to get a heater and the unit has provision for a heater, so what heater is appropriate to use with this controller?
Thanks much for your help!
-Tom-
<Well, Tom, I have a CSL Chiller on one of my tanks (for now- I think the unit sounds like a 747 on takeoff, so it's on its way out soon!), and I use Ebo Jaeger's with no problems. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.> 

- Computer Gadgets -
Do you know of any gadgets, such as a ph digital monitor that you can hook into your computer that records the history of readings? or temperature, nitrate, calcium, etc.? <Well... how deep is your wallet? There are currently devices that qualify as complete monitor controllers - Octopus and Aquadyne are the two prominent players, but neither are cheap. I've often wanted to develop small scale devices that could monitor individual items but as yet have found an benefactor to finance such endeavors.
Cheers, J -- >

Getting His Reef Tank Wired!
30 years ago I had a marine fish tank, said I would never do it again, but here I am.
<Glad to have you back! I'm sure that you'll have even more fun now!>
I now have a 75 gal with sand and live rock curing and cycling. I am also a gadget freak and would like to have electronic monitoring of the important conditions in the tank. In looking at the posts on your site I could not find any agreement as to which brands or types of monitors are most used and trusted. I do not know what all is measurable by meters and what must be done with test kits, but the more electronic the better for me, I know this is not the least expensive way but neither is a reef tank. If you have the time I would appreciate any suggestions of types and brands. I would like monitoring rather than testing meters but testing is still better and test kits.
Thank you for your time   Carson Crenshaw
<Well, Carson, if you're into electronics, I'd look into many of the fine quality electronics put out by companies like American Marine, Octopus, etc...Too many to mention here. However, pH monitors are very useful, as are many of the ORP monitor/controllers...Check out the Tunze web site if you really like these kinds of gadgets...tons and tons of high quality stuff out there! Have fun! Regards, Scott F> 

- Infrared Auto Top-off? -
I saw on your website that infrared auto top-offs are the best.  Where can I buy products like this?  Thanks! Mark
<It took a few google searches to come up with something, but I came up with a product called AquaSense. Here's some reviews:
http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/reviews/productreviews/aquasense.htm by Bob Goemans and http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish/library/articleview2.asp?Section=&RecordNo=185 by Richard Harker. I'd check with Marine Depot b/c I found this  http://www.marinedepot.com/dp_aquasense.htm on their site, but with no price or availability. Good luck and let us know how it goes! -Kevin>

Auto-Pilot
Do you know of or know of someone who could possibly direct me to a website or company that has computerized monitoring equipment for a home pc that will monitor everything I would need chemically wise in a reef aquarium? thank you for your time.  thanks, Jon
<Never tried anything like this, but http://www.automatedaquariums.com/index.htm.  Best of luck! Ryan>

Re: Neptune aquacontrollers
Hi guys,
I'm was thinking of buying a Neptune aquacontroller for my reef aquariums, What do you guys think about that controller/monitors.
Thanks
<No experience with Neptune, but controllers are a great way to automate many functions and params. There are several brands available. Perhaps go to WetWebForums and ask others about their experience with Neptune?  Craig>

Personal Opinion on equipment (controller) 2/16/03
Again, I'm back to pick. What's yer opinion on the AquaController II system?  Worth the money for someone who would rather let automation rule the tank? Or a waste of money?
<Not a waste at all. I have a complete Octopus 3000 outfit myself and love it. They are not fundamental pieces of equipment, but are very useful for serious aquarists that want to refine/finesse husbandry. Anthony>

Web-enabled aquarium 
Using the Web to save lives—tiny lives
Aquarium WebCams abound on the Internet. Apart from providing a nice picture, WebCams aren't an important part of the hobby. But a Web-enabled aquarium that monitors itself and reports serious problems to its owner is a big help to aquarium aficionados. I used a tiny, self-contained Web server with temperature probes and remote control switches to build a system that lets me monitor—and manipulate—my ocean reef aquarium from anywhere in the world. Saltwater aquariums in particular require constant vigilance to maintain the narrow temperature range compatible with sea life. It can take months to establish a complete ecology in the simulated ocean reef—the most challenging saltwater environment. You can lose that time investment in a single day if water temperature strays.
I used Dallas Semiconductor's teeny Tiny Internet Interface (TINI) micro-Web server and digital sensors to put my tank on the Web. By itself, the TINI is the size of a standard SIMM memory module, and when it's plugged into its Systronix TINI Initial Learning Tool (TILT) chassis, it's only slightly larger than a paperback novel. The TINI is a completely self-contained Web server that runs Java servlets, and it can communicate with sensors and controls by using Dallas Semiconductor's one-wire interface and iButton devices.
The Web-enabled system lets me remotely view temperature graphs and other status sensors, as well as remotely turn on and off support devices such as lights, chillers, heaters, and pumps. For example, if the temperature gets high, I can turn off the lights and activate a backup chiller. Already, this system has twice saved my micro-ecology from virtual extinction.
http://www.connectedhomemag.com/Networking/Articles/Index.cfm?ArticleID=24760

The fish started it (Automated systems controls)
<Neat>
It was a fishy way for a scientist to start wiring houses onto Web
Monday, September 18, 2000
The fish started it.
Yi-Min Wang, a scientist at Microsoft Research, loves his fish. And so he used to worry about them, especially when the occasional storm rolled through and knocked out power. Wang would rush home to check on his fish tanks.
"I thought to myself, this isn't right," he said.
What wasn't right is that Wang is a leading computer scientist at Microsoft -- surrounded by all the technical expertise and resources the company has to offer -- and yet he still had to drive across town simply to find out if his five fish tanks were working.
"It was ridiculous," he decided. So Wang shifted some of his efforts away from his official Microsoft Research focus on systems networking over to figuring out how to make his fish tanks accessible over the Internet.
The result is "Aladdin" -- Wang's up-and-running project (now official and involving colleagues Wilf Russell and Anish Arora) that demonstrates how to wire a house onto the Web using existing home wiring and relatively inexpensive off-the-shelf technology.
There are companies out there already marketing "smart home" technology, Wang noted, but many of these systems are often pricey, specialized or not really too smart.
What the Microsoft scientist wanted to create was a relatively cheap and reliable smart and wired home that didn't require specialized wiring or new technologies.
"In order to get home networking to take off, we need to rely on existing wiring," Wang said.
"Wire is just wire and any wire can carry bits."
Using some Radio Shack devices, his home's telephone lines, standard electrical wiring and radio frequencies on the airwaves, the Microsoft scientist now has a home that does a lot more than simply allow him to check on his fish.
Aladdin is a system of six PCs that are connected to each other and to devices in Wang's home. They monitor what's happening and talk to each other using the power lines in the home as well as the telephone lines.
Wang's house knows when you plug in a lamp or an appliance.
Using those PC "eyeball cams," Aladdin allows Wang to visually check rooms in his home from anywhere using his laptop. He can see if the garage is open, if the lights are off or if there's an intruder.
If he wants to close the garage door or turn on some lights, he can send his house an e-mail message.
Hit "send" and the garage door closes, the lights go on.
If something happens at home, like a leaking fish tank, a sensor informs the house network and the house automatically sends Wang an e-mail alert.
All this is based on some pretty sophisticated software techniques developed by Wang and his colleagues. But the aim of Aladdin is to create a system that anyone can use.
"I don't want to have to learn anything to make this work," said Wang's wife, Emerald Chung. Her favorite use of Aladdin, she said, was when they came home late one evening and their two young boys, Jeffrey and Andrew, fell asleep in the car.
They pulled into the garage and decided it would be best to wake them gradually.
"We asked the computer to keep asking them to wake up," Emerald Chung said. The eyeball cam in the garage allowed the parents to see when the boys finally woke up.
"It's cool," Jeffrey said.
Wang and his colleagues have also worked on maintaining security in the home network so would-be cyberburglars can't intercept -- or manipulate -- commands on the Internet to gain illicit access or information. All the signals sent to and from his house are encrypted and contain an embedded password.
Simplicity and reliability is key, too, he said.
"People won't want a system that is only 95 percent reliable," Wang said. Aladdin has to be as reliable and simple to use as the telephone, he said, which means it will need to be flexible and "self-stabilizing."
Self-stabilization, Wang explained, means the home network will have to be able to adjust to changes (like power outages) without requiring the homeowner to do anything.
Aladdin isn't a system ready for mass marketing yet, he noted. The project, he said, is simply to show that wiring your home to the Internet isn't waiting for major new innovations. Wang's wired home may sound futuristic, but it's not that far off in the future.
"In a few years, it will seem really weird to people that there was a time when you couldn't check on your house as easily as you can now check your stocks or the weather," Wang said. "This is an obvious extension of the Web."

Dosing Solution
Hi Bob, I am a Mechanical Engineer working on a dosage problem with my solution. I am making a gallon of solution of Kalk. to drip into my Saltwater tank. I would like to leave the gallon of solution below the tank in side of the cabinet. The approx. amount of drops that are going into the tank is 7ml/min. (.166 ml/sec.) Using this amount I have designed a way to dose into the tank without leaving a gallon of solution on top the tank to be siphoned. If I had a sump I wouldn't be in this situation. My questioned is if I dose into my tank every hour using the above amount(7ml/min.)= 420ml/hr. will this amount have a negative affect in the tank?
<Mmm, for how big a tank? This is a bunch of material if saturated for a typical hobbyist system... might overflow it even... And, you don't want to apply the kalkwasser during the day... at least probably not. Are you infusing carbon dioxide? Do you plan to utilize a pH controller or some other automated metering device with the supply? Please read the following "kalk faqs": http://wetwebmedia.com/kalkh2ofaqs.htm>
I know that
Kalk. has some kind of residual effect I am not to sure. 
I may perform a
test but I figured I would ask for your opinion first.
Thanks, David Garcia
<I would study first. A few, very important effects... potentially and really toxic. There are other, better ways of supplying calcium, hydroxides/pH stability, other biominerals... Bob Fenner>

Re: Dosing Solution
I have a 45 gallon tank the Bio load is not very high I only have Live Rock and 1 Starfish. I also use a EcoSystem w/ a "PROTEIN SKIMMER". I know Eco proclaims not use a protein skimmer however, it is beneficial to remove some waste.
<Agreed... though Leng Sy (the owner/manager) is a friend, indeed an advertiser/sponsor of our principal site (WetWebMedia), I am of the same opposing opinion>
I may use a buffer type chemical like the Kent A&B. The only problem I have had in the past is I could never get my Calcium above 350 PPM. 
<This is likely fine... you can read about why this... and alkalinity mentioned below are likely challenged, limited in your system on our site>
and my Alk to be stable. I would add these chemicals two or three times a week, maybe I should lower the dosage to once a week and see if that will work.
<There's more to this then simply changing the dosage interval. Read on. Bob Fenner>

Marketing feed back request (and general promo.)
Hello Fresh Water and Aquarium Magazine;
<Fwd.ed by Sue Steele, Art Goddess at FAMA to RMF>
Benke Company, Inc. has developed a new aquarium controller.
We are seeking marketing feedback from experienced aquarium professionals and distributors.
The objective of this controller is to provide an automated aquarium environment that helps to protect the users investment in fish. 
Our new aquarium controller will retail for $139.00 
<A bargain comparatively>
The aquarium controller has the following features: 
1 Controls tank temperature to 1 degree accuracy with a sold 
<a faux pas> state temperature sensor. 
2. Provides two built in 110 volt A.C. sockets, to provide heater power and a pump power socket. 
The pump power outlet turns on a users pump in a reserve tank when the liquid level sensors indicate the water level is low.
2. (Optional) liquid level sensors allow automatic filling of the aquarium tank from a reserve tank. 
3. Monitors for all error conditions: Temp sensor not responding, Heater element is not working, water Level sensors stuck,
and other internal controller detected error conditions. 
Error conditions are reported via a local audio enunciator and via an RF link to our (optional ) wireless 110 monitor product. 
see www.wireless-house.com for details. 
4. Has optional plug in accessory to accommodate two 10 Amp heaters.
5. User setup, controller configuration and error condition display are available by using the FREE windows software. 
6. Contains a built in GFI for protection against shock hazards. 
7. An optional fish feeder plug in accessory will be available at a later date.
8. The MS Windows software supports 248 user defined programmable timed events that can control (optional) output devices. 
9. Optional PC to Controller hardware interface required if using the FREE windows software. 
Please down load and review the PDF file on this new controller @ 
http://www.wireless-house.com/Applications/Aquarium_P1/Aquarium_P2/aquarium_p2.html 
Will this item help increase your aquarium sales ? 
We would appreciate any feedback on the features of this product you may have to this new product 
or any of our www.wireless-house.com products.
<Nice ad, release... like the mention of "options" and "FREE software" juxtapositioning>
Thanks,
James A. Benke
President
1-440-256-9838
<Will post your msg. on our site: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcontrolfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Fwd: Marketing feed back request
Hi Bob;
Thanks for you kind words of encouragement regarding our marketing release.
In one day after the release, we have received a number of very positive responses for aquarium distributors.
This product is more than 95% percent software and has consumed a lot of time and effort and money.
Thanks for posting it on your site, I appreciate your help.
Thanks,
James A. Benke
President
<You're welcome my friend in the trade. Please call on me/us if we may be of service, further input. Bob Fenner>

Techy automatic aquarium for Wired magazine? 
Hi Bob-- I'm a products editor at Wired magazine who's always on the lookout for innovative new stuff. It occurred to me that there's probably a lot of interesting things going on with aquariums-- ideally, I'm looking for something ready-made and stand-alone, like an automatic system that feeds, heats, filters, balances chemicals, etc. under digital control-- something that could "cross over" to non-hobbyists who just want to spend a lot and take the easy route to having an aquarium, either fresh or marine. 
I don't really know how far-fetched this is, but would like any suggestions or pointers you might have. What are some companies out there who are pushing the technology envelope (apologies for using that phrase...) with aquarium products that would have mass appeal? 
Who's pursuing the fun, ambitious new technology ideas? 
Thanks very much! 
Paul Spinrad 
Section Editor
<Hmm, well there are "stand alone" aquatic environments manufactured in the US (Marineland Eclipse's) that don't involve controllers with their mechanicals... and ones elsewhere (Eheim in Germany)... but a nice small story might be built around a local (southern Cal.) company named Aquadyne and their Octopus Controller series (see link to them on our sites link page: 
www.wetwebmedia.com)... About the most sophisticated product for monitoring, controlling (linking to peripherals like dosage pumps, probes, heaters, wave makers, lighting...) in the ornamental aquatics field... used in aquaculture, public aquariums as well as consumers systems. Bob Fenner> 

Re: techy automatic aquarium for Wired magazine? 
Thanks very much-- wow, I'm really impressed by Aquadyne! I'll call them. I appreciate your help! 
Paul
<Anytime. Bob Fenner>