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FAQs about Marine Substrate Selection 3 Related Articles: Marine Substrates, Deep
Sand Beds, Live Sand, Biofiltration,
Denitrification, Live
Sand, Live Rock, Biominerals in Seawater,
Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity,
Related FAQs: Marine Substrate
Selection 1, Marine Substrate Selection 2,
&
Marine Substrates 1,
Marine Substrates 2, Marine
Substrates 3, Marine Substrates 4, Marine
Substrates 5, Marine Substrates 6, Marine
Substrates 7, Marine Substrates 8,
Marine
Substrates 9, Rationale,
Reef Substrates,
Cleaning, Replacing/Adding To,
Deep
Sand Beds, DSBs 2, DSBs
3,
Refugium Substrates/DSBs,
Live Sand, Mud Filtration 1, Biofiltration,
Nitrates, Sand
Sifters, Aquascaping, Calcium, FAQs 1,
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Remember... you're not just choosing for yourself.
Cirrhitichthys aprinus (Cuvier 1829), the Blotched Hawkfish.
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Live Sand vs. Aragamax Sugar-Sized Sand,
8/7/08
Hello:
<Hi>
When creating a DSB so far what I have read on WWM is to use 4-6 inches of
Aragamax Sugar-Sized Sand. Is this considered Live Sand?
<Usually not, live sand has life in it, microfauna and flora, which is not
present in bagged, dry bags.>
If not when would you use live sand?
<I would just use a little to seed the dead sand.>
After all I have read here and all the questions asked and answered I am
planning to change my 46 gallon tank from 1/2 - 1" crushed coral to 4+ inches of
sugar size sand.
<Ok>
I plan to remove the crushed coral and add the sand. Or should I mix the 2
together?
<Remove and replace.>
Is it necessary or preferred to remove the live rock to add the new sand?
<Is best too.>
Is it ok to lay the live rock on top of the new sand or should I suspend the
live using egg crate or similar.
<Egg crate, PVC framework, or placing on the glass and adding the sand around it
is best. If placing on glass the tank should be empty of water to prevent a
sandstorm.>
Thanks for taking the time to read.
Regards,
Tom
<Welcome>
<Chris>
Re: Live Sand vs. Aragamax Sugar-Sized
Sand, 8/8/08
Hello:
<Hi>
Is below the preferred order once I remove my live rock & crushed coral:
Add the 4-6 inch DSB
Lay the egg crate on top of DSB where ever live rock will go
Put live rock on top of egg crate
Thanks,
Tom
<Ideally the egg crate would extend all the way to the glass to provide support
for the rocks, but as long as it makes a study base that will not move (fill in
the eggcrate with sand) you should be fine.>
<Chris>
|
Will any sand be ok for substrate?
08/04/2008
Hello WWM thanks for all your help thus far.
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I have a 6' tank that was fish only that has now been changed over to more of a
reef setup with loads of xenia that has increased about twenty fold in the last
five months and a few other corals, colt, toadstool, hammerhead, and a
Condylactis. I wish to replace the substrate from crushed coral to a very fine
sand. Reasons being aesthetics (I want the substrate to be perfect looking) and
to lower nitrates. I've read on your site that I should do this bit by bit and
not plunk it over the existing substrate. That I should work from one end across
to the other removing existing substrate as I go.
My questions are:
1) How much should I remove at a time? 10" in width or can I get away with more
<<I would do a 1/4 at a time, leave a couple of weeks in between swap outs to
enable life to transfer to the new sand>>
2) Present depth is about 1.5". Is 2" of the fine sugar sized sand ok
<<Yes, absolutely fine. Just bear in mind that if you want sand burrowing fish
in the future, more like 4 inches or more would be more suited>>
3) Can I use "any sand". the local supermarket sell a perfect looking fine sand
for child use, it says it has been cleaned but that's it. I don't know what type
of sand it is or what it has been cleaned with. as its for child use I would
assume no bleaches or toxins in in but I am trying to contact the manufacturer.
Does this matter?
<<Personally, I am just a stickler for sand choices and would only purchase /
recommend a proper marine substrate, like CaribSea sugar grade reef sand>>
4) If its ok should I also buy some live sand and apply top? any benefits, like
speeding up the amount of sand changed at a time?
<<Don't see any real need as life will transfer from the old sand. If anything,
just save a few cup fulls of the old top thin layer of sandbed, and spread over
the new sand to promote life>>
5) Will fine sand affect my PH or any other parameters in the tank - buffering
ability etc. I am mainly concerned about my xenia.
<<Nope, all shall be fine>>
6) I have heard that the only negative with sand of this size is the cleaning.
I've never really cleaned my substrate (didn't know I had to at first) and as a
result algae has formed at the bottom. will vacuuming be a problem or will my
critters suffice, sand sifting stars and snails 0.5" hermit crabs?
<<Normal sand sifting snails, hermits, bottom grazers etc will suffice>>
Thanks for all you help, Lex
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: will any sand be ok for substrate?
08/07/2008
Thanks for the fast response Andrew, your comments were most helpful.
<<Always a pleasure, never a chore, Lex>>
I know you said you prefer "proper" marine substrate and frankly so would I, the
only problem being that the only fine grade whit sand I can find is live from
CaribSea and I can only find it in small bags at £5.00 each. given the size of
my tank this would prove to be very costly as apposed to the child grade one
that is twice as big and under £1.00. If you know or any reasons why I shouldn't
use it, please let me know.
<<Ahhhhhh...A UK person, just like myself. In that case, please do check out
this substrate, its what I brought for my last reef tank..
http://www.atlantisaquatics.co.uk/acatalog/caribsea.html The one at the bottom
of the page. Excellent service and communications from them, certainly one of my
recommended suppliers.>>
Thanks again, Lex
<<Thanks for the follow up, please do advise me if you order from these and let
me know your experience with them. Regards and have a good day. A Nixon>>
Dolomite limestone, use as substrate
– 07/22/08
My husband and I are in the process of setting up a 90g tank at home. We
have done some research and are interested in using pulverized limestone as our
sand bed. We can't find it at HD or Lowe's but we found dolomite limestone at
our local garden center. Is this the same as the pulverized limestone I have
seen others mention?
<No. Dolomite is a different mineral in contrast to aragonite and calcite, the
more common carbonate minerals that compose limestone. Dolomite is less soluble
and has a significantly higher concentration of Magnesium. It also might contain
potentially harmful elements it enriched through its geological history.
Especially if you want to keep stony corals, I’d prefer coral sand (also known
as crushed coral, aragonite sand), which might be more expensive, but safe and
potentially beneficial for coral growth and stable water parameters. Unless you
know exactly the composition of this specific dolomite and can determine if it
is safe for aquarium use, I would not use it.>
Thanks for your help. Callie.
<Hope that helps. Marco.>
|
Dry Live Sand 4/5/08
Hi I have a question regarding DSB's I currently have two inches of
aragonite sand and want to seed it with live sand, my LFS told me to use pink
live sand (not really pink just called that) which is the type they claim to use
on their tanks which look great.
<OK>
My only problem with this is that the sand is shipped like aragonite sand in
that it is dry in a plastic bag. I was wondering if dry live sand is just a scam
or if the microfauna is able to live dry?
<There will be absolutely no seeding benefit from this sand, and for that matter
very little from water packed sand in a bag. The best thing you can do to seed
your system is to talk someone with an existing tank into a cup of their sand or
to simply add live rock to the system. Regards, Scott V. >
Re: Dry Live Sand 4/7/08
This question is for Scott V.
<Hello, with you.>
I Recently asked if dry live sand is at all reliable as a live sand and upon
further research found a company that sells wet live sand by the pound which is
perfect for me because I only need about 7 pounds to seed my aragonite sand.
They claim that there live sand has lots off little pods, worms and such but I
wanted to ask if these beneficial beasties would survive the collection/shipping
process and make it to my tank. Thanks and I will try to procure a cup of live
sand from an aged tank!
<True wet live sand will be of some benefit, much of the life in it will survive
shipping. Although simply seeding from another tank or live rock is the easiest
and most cost effective. Welcome, enjoy the new tank, Scott V.> |
Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium...
GARF "grunge"...
03/14/2008
Thank you, was hoping maybe you could respond to some of the
questions & comments I sent GARF as well ?
<<Added some comments into the email text below that you sent to GARF.>>
<<Thanks, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Thanks again !
Re: "New" 55 Gallon Reef Aquarium 03/14/2008
Good morning,
<<Good evening, Andrew today>>
Was hoping I could receive your expert advice once again ?
<<Shall try>>
Here is a copy of an e-mail I sent to Geothermal Aquaculture Research
Lab in Boise this AM. I have also included my prior e-mails to you @ the
bottom for reference if needed. One thing I forgot to ask them is if
they & now you think I am on the right track, is this GARF safe to add
w- the existing livestock or should they or it be quarantined in anyway?
<<i would only acclimatize the hermits / snails>>
I am pretty sure you are familiar w- the product but here is a link to
the site just in case.
http://www.garf.org/reefjanitors.html
<<yes, seen this before>>
Also I do have concerns about heat once the new lights are running, I am
currently right @ 80 (assuming the cheap little thermometer in there is
reasonably accurate) I don't know why it would be so high though,
ambient temperature is 70-75, has open back canopy, about 6 inches off
wall, piping is matched to pump port size. Trickle filter I thought
helped w- heat dispersion.
Current lighting is a Corallife 65w 50/50, I have an additional 4x65
50/50 Corallife retro on the way.
<<Nothing excessive to cause temp rises. Devices inside the tank also
contribute to tank temp>>
Again, thanks in advance for all you do !!
Aidan
From: Stuart, Aidan
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 8:09 AM
To: 'Leroy@garf.org'
Subject: GARF Grunge
Good Morning,
I inherited a marine aquarium & am in the process of giving myself a
crash course. 55G, has been set up about 2-1/2 weeks w- 10 gallons of
original water & the balance from LFS. Ammonia, Nitrate & Nitrites all
consistently test zero. There is I would estimate about 30-40 pounds of
live rock & about 1-1/2 - 2" of live sand from the original aquarium.
Inhabitants:
Sailfin Tang (my LFS will take him, he is small now but since will
outgrow this tank see no reason to keep him)
2 Clowns
1 Anemone (again LFS will take, want coral & have been advised I
shouldn't have this w- coral)
1 Mushroom Coral
I would like to eventually have a nice fish / coral mixture. Current
Lighting is a 65W Corallife 50/50 but I have ordered an additional
retrofit 4x65W Corallife 50/50 which will give me 3 sets of lights
available to have on different timers. 2 50/50 @ 130w & one 50/50 @ 65w
for a total available of 325.
Have a wet/dry trickle filter w- mat & Purigen only (no bio-balls) that
has a 500GPM flow, also 2 Koralia circulation pumps on order (600 GPM
per) & a skimmer in the sump.
As long as this aquarium was set up prior to my receiving (6 years, but
I don't know how long the rock was in) I would have expected much more
coralline on the rock & overflow wall. The rock I would estimate has
maybe 15% - 20% coverage, but also has green hair algae (doesn't appear
to be increasing or excessive) The overflow wall merely has nickel to
quarter size patches.
<<Coralline will arrive in time given good lighting, calcium Alk and Mag
levels>>
I don't want to get ahead of myself before adding more livestock & coral
before the tank is ready & assume getting more coralline would be the
1st step ?
<<This is no indication of a tanks suitability to house fish or corals,
the water parameters / cycling are what govern this>>
If I am correct in that I was wondering if the GARF Grunge would be the
best start (& in what qty),
<<Info stated on their website " 0NE POUND FOR EACH THREE GALLONS WILL
ACTIVATE TWO INCHES OF ARAGONITE SAND
ADD ONE POUND PER 10 GALLONS TO IMPROVE WILD LIVE SAND! " >>
if so what combination of
lighting from my above options would be best until the addition of
corals, I am assuming the 1x65w @ 10-12 hrs ?
<<8 hours is plenty of lighting>>
If I am on the right track so far what would you recommend for a rough
time estimate before I could add corals & additional fish.
<<Once the cycle has completed and a large water change has been done,
you can start to slowly stock the tank>>
Lastly here is a list of species I thought may be good for a tank of
this size that would peacefully co-exist.
Do these look like good picks & if so what qty of each would you
recommend both for compatibility & bio-load. Would order added matter ?
I do currently have the two Ocellaris, the Sailfin & anemone will be
returned before I make any additions.
Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)
Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)
Bicolor Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis paccagnellae)
Limbaugh Chromis Damsel (Chromis limbaughi) <<I would leave the damsel
out, these can get aggressive>>
Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) <<Add this fish last>>
Royal Gamma Basslet (Gramma loreto) <<I would choose this or bicolor
Pseudo.. They are very alike and you may get some aggression shown from
the Gramma to the bicolor>>>>
Re: "New" 55 Gallon
Reef Aquarium... GARF/Grunge... using WWM 03/15/2008
Thank you sir, I appreciate the advice, I assume you had no
objections to the GARF then. One forum I looked @ had to shut down a
couple of threads on the subject because they took a nasty turn, very
strong opinions on both sides.
<<Its a very debatable issue i suppose. An aspect you have to consider
is how genuine the product is? Fact is, a lot / most wont have a means
of checking out the product to ensure the specific contents. Would i use
this? No...Given time, life will be generated under its own steam. Just
my opinion of course. Hope this helps. A Nixon>>
<Aidan... take a look on WWM (the search tool...) re GARF, "Grunge"....
this "product" is a hoax... "some old guy with a hammer smashing up dead
LR"... Andrew Nixon is in the UK... likely unfamiliar with... RMF.>
|
Sand Bed, pH, and More
3/13/08
Hi Crew,
<Hello>
I have a few questions. I have had a 46 bow front reef going for about 5 yrs.
now. I have about 50+ lbs of live rock and my substrate is 4 in. of crushed
coral and live sand mixed. LFS told us to do this when we went from fish only to
reef (6 months later). I would like to go with one or the other.
<Sand>
There is a lot of detritus on the live rock. Which critters are best at cleaning
that up and are reef safe?
<You mostly, get more circulation to keep it suspended where the skimmer can
pull it out.>
Another question, I've been taking a water sample to my LFS every 2 weeks
everything tests fine except my calcium (380) and ph (7.8) I've been adding ph
buffer and calcium daily and doing 10 % water changes every 2 weeks. Any
suggestions on increasing these.
<I would do the water changes weekly, and make sure you buffer you top-off and
water change water before adding it to your tank.>
I have a Hagen test kit that I can't stand. Cal and ph are hard to read, that's
why I take my sample to the LFS.
<Ok, have you tried other brands? You can even get an electronic pH tester
fairly cheaply.>
I would like to add a star fish any recommendations?
<A Serpent Star would probably be ok.>
My tank consists of: A brand new Remora protein skimmer with MaxiJet 1200, and 2
Hydor 2 pumps for water movement.
<I have 5 smallish powerheads in my 46, I think more water movement will help
here.>
I can't think of my lighting, but I do know that it is enough for clams. Do I
need anything else to keep my tank beautiful?
<Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.>
I don't have any room for a sump or refugium. Thank you for your help.
1 maroon clown
1 yellow tang (will get rid of when too big)
<Already is regardless of size.>
1 Naso tang (will get rid of when too big)
<Same>
2 lawnmower blennies
1 bubble coral
1 flowerpot coral
1 chili coral
3 Nephthea
1 rainbow polyp rock
1 open brain coral
2 peppermint shrimp
2 Astraea snails
Everything is doing quite well in the tank.
<Good>
<Chris>
Tank upgrade
Substrate/Refugium 2/4/08
Hello, I would like to start by thanking you all for volunteering your time
to run WWM! I am an avid reader, and deeply appreciate this resource.
<Thank you, it is a pleasure to be a part of.>
I will soon be upgrading from a 55 gallon FOWLR to a 75 gallon. My current
inhabitants are a 5 “ Tetraodon nigroviridis, one 2 “Amphiprion clarkii, and one
1 1/2” Chrysiptera parasema. I don’t plan on adding anymore livestock after the
move, I’d just like them to have more room to roam.
<Yes.>
This system has been running for about 2 years. When I set up the new tank, I
will be adding more live sand and I was wondering which one to add first, the
newly purchased, or the sand from my current set up?
<I would put the old sand on top or even just mix the two together.>
Right now the depth of the sand is about 2” but I’d like to increase that to 3”
or 4”.
<Go for the 4” depth.>
I am guessing it doesn’t matter, but I really want to do this the right way and
not cause a major upset that I could avoid. I also have an Aqua-Clear 150 that
I’d like to stop using after I switch. I currently have about 40# of LR (will
add more) and an AquaC-Remora Pro skimmer. I haven’t gotten rid of the
Aqua-Clear because every time I perform maintenance, there are tons of micro
crustaceans, etc. that have made their home in the filter and I think they must
be beneficial.
<Acting as a small refugium.>
Would there be a benefit to adding a hang on refugium in place of the Aqua-Clear
even though I am not going to be keeping inverts?
<Yes, especially if you grow macroalgae for nutrient export.>
I was thinking I could put some of the filter media in the fuge to entice the
critters to switch homes. I know some advocate the removal of filters and some
still find them useful, so I’m confused about my options.
<Possibly opt for additional live rock here instead. If you can divide the area
with baffles and light it and add macroalgae this will be even better.>
I searched through the tank upgrade FAQ’s and didn’t see anything that pertains
to the sand question, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks again! Jenny
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
|
White “Cement” Substrate –
02/01/08
Hi all,
<<Greetings>>
I have set up a 120 gallon tank (48x24x24) and because of the very high flow
rates and I cannot stand the look of bare bottom I decided to use fine white
aragonite sand (2 30# bags) and white riverside cement (around 8 cups) to make a
substrate for the tank.
<<Mmm, I see… So essentially you have "poured a concrete slab” on your tank
bottom. I hope you don’t come to regret this, my friend. I can tell you from
experience, the cement mix will foster nuisance algae for some time to come>>
It is around 1-inch deep. Can you give me any info on what I should do now; it
is "setup" 3 days old?
<<You must now “cure” the concrete. If you add water to the tank now, it will
yield a pH about 12.0. You will need to let the slab “soak” for a few days to a
week under about 20 gallons of freshwater, then, remove the alkali saturated
water, add new freshwater, and repeat…continuing to do so until the water yields
a pH of about 8.5 or less after a minimum of three days in the tank>>
I assume I should treat it like the fake rock that people make correct?
<<Yes…though curing this slab in your tank as opposed to curing rock in a
plastic trashcan is going to be a bit more of a hassle>>
Soak it in water for a few weeks and watch pH levels?
<<Will take more than a “few weeks”>>
Would it be worth it to try to treat it with an acid to neutralize it?
<<Not in your tank>>
How long should I expect this to take?
<<In my experience…8-12 weeks>>
Thanks!
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Re: White "Cement"
Substrate – 02/13/08
Thanks for your quick reply.
<<Very welcome>>
So a few follow up questions if you don't mind.
<<Not at all…>>
You said that "the cement mix will foster nuisance algae for some time
to come" could you elaborate a little on this please? How long and why?
You said from personal experience so I assume you have done this cement
sand mixture before?
<<Indeed…as faux “live rock”…and don’t recommend it/won’t do it again.
Admittedly my experience is anecdotal, but cement-made materials (e.g. –
“rock”) appear to provide both a nutritive source for nuisance alga
(this, a result of the Phosphate content of the lime/limestone used to
make the cement), as well as an attachment site that favors nuisance
alga over Coralline alga. Although this example is about cement-made
rock, I see no reason why the same principles won’t apply in your case>>
I know people that have done this type of "bare bottom" tank before and
don't remember them mentioning anything about algae issues. The reason I
did this is because I want to make this a SPS tank primarily, but hate
the bare bottom look.
<<Me too…not natural at all>>
I wanted any easy way to keep detritus in check and have a very large
amount of flow without a sand storm while still maintaining the look of
sand.
<<The “sandstorm” issue with high water flow is overrated in my opinion.
Yes, there will be some movement/shifting (but this is “natural”), but
careful positioning of your flow devices will preclude any “storms” (I
have more than 14,000gph of flow with a 7-inch sugar-fine DSB in a
96”x30”x30” tank). As for “maintaining the look of sand,” I can’t
imagine this cemented substrate not discoloring/darkening to the point
that it looks like anything close to “sand”>>>>
Is there a preferred way to do this without cement?
<<As mentioned…or maybe a shallow (3/4”) substrate of coarser material
(3mm-5mm)>>
I know some people have used epoxy but it didn't work so well with the
fine sand. The other thing I wanted to run by you is this…If high pH is
the issue with not allowing me to put my live rock in the tank until the
pH comes down on its own, why can't I inject CO2 from a tank regulated
by a controller/monitor through the skimmer to keep the pH stable at 8.0
until the sand cement mixture cures and stops leaching out into the
water? This theoretically should work right?
<<It is true that CO2 will suppress pH…but it seems to me the amount
needed would render this environment just as uninhabitable as otherwise
(CO2 poisoning). If even possible, I think this amount of CO2 would
displace so much oxygen that nothing “desirable” would/could survive.
Much better to just “soak” the material in freshwater…though will be
quite the “pain” since it is cast in the bottom of the tank>>
If I use a bubble counter over time it will just stop injecting CO2 and
once I see no more CO2 being injected it should be stable at that point
correct?
<<Bubble counter?...no… A CO2 controller would be needed to monitor the
pH and the release of CO2>>
I realize this idea is a little "out of the box" but just wanted to know
if there is any solid reason why this wouldn’t work.
<<You have my thoughts on it>>
Thanks again for your time, it’s great to have such a good source to
bounce questions off and get a non-biased answer.
<<Hee-hee! Hardly “non-biased” here…and although I’m not trying to sell
you a product…I guess you could consider I am trying to “sell you” on my
opinions/way of thinking [grin]! Regards, Eric Russell>> |
DSB and new tank setup -
Follow-up, reef f' 2/1/08
Hi :)
<Hello there>
Please can you help with a few questions.
<Will try>
I recently setup a 4.5x2.5x2 (LxHxW) bowfront tank. Should be around 120 odd
gallons?
<About 7.5 gallons per cubic foot... about this>
Made a DSB of 4" using sand from the local topical beach. I think you call this
sugar fine.
<Okay>
Did the vinegar test and magnet test to check for suitability and was looking
good.
Dug a 1-1.5" pit in the sand and placed 65-70Kgs of live rock in this for a
foundation.
Then built the rock structure on top of this base.
The sand is a bit thicker below the 1st 2 inches. But it looked less white so I
used the whiter sand on top.
When you look at sand in the beach after the tide has gone in, there is a
totally dry layer on top and a bit darker layer an inch or so below.
I have used both the types. Dark below and light above.
1. The sand in the corner facing the water flow (powerhead) does not seem to
remain in place a BIT. The sand height in this place is around 2" only.
<Will move about, seek its own level...>
2. A little bit of sand is ALWAYS moving around as in a few grains hear and
there. Will it be better If I add some crushed coral that is grinded to a
slightly larger constituency? I could put this on top so the sand flies less?
<Might help, yes>
3. I plan to remove the powerhead and use a 5 gall surge. Will this wreck my
sand and make it a constant sand storm?
<Should pretty much settle down in time>
4. Will this affect the DSB? Even if I put additional sand here it will get
settled somewhere else.
<Mmm, no, not much>
5. Will my rock structure be stable? I have not used any PVC structure. Dug a
pit in the substrate for 1-1.5" and put some of the live rocks there and got a
base.
<If the rock is set on the very bottom, sturdily arranged, it should stay put>
6. I cured RAW rocks in the tank as it was being setup. I saw some pods
initially when the rock was curing and then nitrates went up to 20ppm. After
this I din see any pods. But in 2 weeks nitrates are zilch.
I could not resist myself so put a small frag of palythoa and another small frag
of zoanthids. They are looking awesome from last 1 week. Can raw rock cure in 2
weeks flat?
<Can>
I used a DIY skimmer only and did zero water changes. Lights on for 12-14 hours
(1 150W 20K Kelvin MH and 1 40W 10K Kelvin NO tube).
7. Last week I picked up a few rocks I have put in the sand bed and I saw black
to silvery material below. I guess this is rotting stuff as it smelt like that.
Is it toxic to have put the frags in?
<Possibly>
8. Can you give me any good reference to fragging zoanthids?
<What little we have on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/zoanthidreprfaqs.htm
and Anthony Calfo's "Coral Propagation" book>
They are on a big rock which cannot be broken as it is hard as granite. Have to
only scrape them off. If I try to scrape them from the base, they sometimes get
smashed as they are small. Any better way?
<Read on. An electric saw would help... perhaps a sharp chisel (do wear gloves
and eye protection)>
9. How can I attach them to my live rock?
<Read on... best to "tie" to some other material, move this into place once
secured>
10. There is a bit of macro algae that came in with the live rock. I did not cut
it off during the curing. It is of many types. Caulerpa, kelp, and some
calcareous types as well. is it ok if there are many types? Should I add more?
<Please read on WWM re Macrophyte/algae Compatability... the mix should be fine>
Cheers and Thanks Again
Ranjith
<Bob Fenner>
Circulation Questions.
Heavy Water Flow And Fine Sand – 01/30/08
Am in the process of putting together the components for my new 120 gallon
tank (4x2x2).
<<Neat>>
I want to keep SPS and clams.
<<Ahh…no “softies?”…excellent…
I don't want to utilize too much rock (75-80lbs) as I would like the tank to
have an open look.
<<I am much in agreement with this method of aquascaping. Far too much rock in
many hobbyists’ tanks in my opinion. If more biological filtration is deemed
necessary a fine-grain sand bed of 4-inches or more will do the trick…can even
be placed remotely (sump/refugium)>>
I've got some unique aquascaping planned using flexible PVC. With that in mind,
here is my circulation setup. Eheim 1262 (900gph) located directly beneath the
tank in the cabinet for my return pump with a gate-valve to control return flow.
<<Nice choice…good quality long-lasting pumps>>
I just purchased two 6-month old Tunze 6080's (2,250gph x 2, not controllable)
at a great price from a fellow member of my local reef club.
<<Very nice… I am a big fan of these pumps for water flow/circulation purposes.
I employ seven such pumps (varying models from 1600 to 3100 GPH) in my reef
display>>
This gives me 5400 gph total flow. Is this going to blow my sand all over the
place?
<<Possibly… But careful placement can mitigate this to a large extent.
Regardless of what pump/methods you use, fine sand is going to “move around
some”>>
Roger from Tunze said it's a matter of placement and that sugar-fine sand is
going to blow around regardless.
<<Ah yes…indeed so>>
What is my best bet here?
<<In what respect?>>
With everything maxed out I’m looking at 45x/hour and about 40x/hour if I
throttle back the return pump. I've read that this is an acceptable flow rate
for a SPS system but it's the DSB that's got me worried.
<<Hmm… I’m moving around about 16,000gph in my display (375g 8ft tank) when
everything is “going at once,” though this isn’t all the time as I have my
Stream pumps set up to switch randomly. I have my pumps set high on the
end-walls of the tank with magnetic mounts. I also have a 7-inch sugar-fine DSB.
I do get some blowing/sand movement when flow paths meet at times, but nothing
drastic. Gullies will form after some time, but this is usually gradual and can
be easily repaired if/when necessary by gently raking the sand down from the
high spots>>
I don't like the bare bottom look. Is there another substrate that I could use
that would be less likely to blow around and that would be acceptable to place
clams on?
<<I don’t think you will be able to go much coarser before it becomes to
large/sharp. It is my opinion that the benefits of the sugar-fine sand; as a
biological filter, in-fauna matrix, and even a clam base, outweigh any
disadvantages of movement from heavy (read that “healthy”) water flow. Regards,
Eric Russell>>
Sand For A Reef Aquarium
12/4/07
<Hi Bryan>
Any good sand substrate recommendations for a reef aquarium 96x30x30?
We want to keep sand sifting fish such as gobies, wrasse, and certain snails.
The Carib Sea Aragamax talks about only using up to 1". I was thinking 4-6"
depth for a substrate. thoughts?
We will also use a mud based substrate in our refugium in the sump.
<I'd go with fine sand, no more than 1mm, easier on burrowing wrasses, etc.
Personally,
I would go with no more than 2 1/2 inches in depth and mix with at least 20 lbs.
of live sand. I'd let this develop before adding the sand sifting critters to
insure a good population of beneficial critters. Read here for more info.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Bryan Heitman
Particular Particulate
Problem 11/28/2007
Hi Guys/Gals,
<John>
Let me start as most usually do.... You guys are great and I love the site; I am
new to reef keeping and your site has kept me out of a lot of trouble. I have a
small problem with particulates in my water and I wasn't sure if you could offer
some advice. Quick rundown on my system:
95 Gallon Oceanic wave tank
25 gallon trickle filter/sump. 90 LBS live rock
40LBS oolite sand
Coralife Super Skimmer
2 AquaClear 70 Powerheads
2 Hydor Koralia 3 Powerheads
<Mmm, where, how are these pumps arranged?>
4 65 watt PC True 03 Actinic
2 250 Watt 15,000 MH
Mated pair maroon clowns, Red Rose Bulb Anemone, Spotted Blenny, Sand sifting
goby, 3 Starfish, assorted snails and hermit crabs
I do water changes of 24 gallons monthly, I have started doing it weekly since I
have had the problem. I always use a RODI filter and mix 50% Instant ocean and
50% Instant Ocean Reef crystals. My water started to have a ton of floating
particulates after I got the clowns. I assume it was from overfeeding (Frozen
MYSIS, CYCLOP, and pellets) but since then I have cut back greatly, almost to the
point of underfeeding. The water is not cloudy and does not have air bubbles, it
just has a lot of free floating particles only visible when the Halides are on.
<A good clue>
I then purchased an Eheim Professional series 2 canister filter and it has not
helped. I added carbon filters and felt pads and every filter medium I can think
of to no avail! I even tried a 50% water change and still no change, any help on
this matter would be greatly appreciated, I want to start purchasing corals but
would like to solve this problem first.
Thank you much!
John
<I wish you had... maybe you do have, a small microscope... that you could take
a look at some of these floating bits. I suspect that the oolitic sand has some
attached small algae on it... that when your bright lights are driving
photosynthesis, cause the light weight material (actually algae with trapped gas
produced) to float about... Now... as to a solution... Perhaps mixing in some
larger diameter, more angular calcareous substrate with it would cause/help all
to stay down. Bob Fenner>
|
New Setup, DSB,
Kolorscape Play Sand 11/19/07
Hi,
<Hello>
I am finishing plumbing my new system and I am looking for aragonite sand for my
DSB. I have found Kolorscape white play sand in a local HD and am wondering if
you know whether it is safe to use and whether it is aragonite?
<Have not personally used it or seen it for sale in my area.>
I have tested several samples of different sands including some from a fish
store and non bubbles in vinegar. Please advise if I can use the Kolorscape
sand?
Thanks again,
John
<I would check some of the major aquarium forums and see if you can find people
who have direct knowledge of this product, or contact the manufacturer and find
out what it is actually made of and what additives have been used on it.>
<Chris>
Re: New Setup, DSB,
Kolorscape Play Sand 11/19/07
Hi Chris,
<Hello>
I called OldCastle and they say that it is silica based... I have also
called my LFS and they sell aragonite sand for $1 per pound
(expensive!).
<Yes it is.>
I need about 300-400 pounds for each of my two deep sand beds and about
200 pounds for my display. Is it safe to mix the two together?
<That is quite a debate you are stepping into, many say that you should
only use aragonite sand while others say that silica based sand is fine.
In my experience I have only ever used aragonite sand and have been
happy with the results, but there is debate even among the crew as to
whether it is necessary. Do a search and you can see for yourself the
differing opinions.>
Or should I use aragonite in display and silica for DSB or vice versa?
My plan was to have 2" in the display (150G, 60x24x24),
<Too much, looking for less than 1 inch here.>
8" in the lower refugium for nutrient export with macroalgae and small
pieces of LR (90G, 48x18x24), and 8" in the upper refugium for food
generation with another type of algae (90G, 48x18x24).
Can you please advise?
Thank you so much for all your help,
John
<There is much discussion here on these subjects, check out our section
on DSBs and related FAQs to get the opinions of several members.>
<Chris> |
Quick Question About Sand
From My LFS (unexpurgated...) – 11/02/07
Hello again WWM crew!
<<Hiya Shane!>>
I am trying desperately to find 250 lbs of sand to use for my DSB at a decent
price.
<<Indeed…tis unfortunate the aragonite sand so readily available from Home Depot
a few years back has pretty much all disappeared now>>
None of the Home Depot’s, Lowe’s or Wal-Mart’s around here carry the right type
of sand.
<<Mmm, well…the sand they carry “can” be used…it just isn’t of the preferred
aragonite composition>>
After looking for about two weeks, I've decided to bite the bullet, put some KY
on my arse and purchase aragonite sand from the LFS. I ran all the numbers and
the cheapest way to get the sand I need from them is by getting 17 bags of this
stuff
<http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/15381/product.web>
(http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/15381/product.web if the hyper link
doesn't work). I am assuming it would all be okay, can I get you guys' thoughts
and opinions on this stuff?
<<Should be fine>>
Ever used it?
<<Nope>>
I guess I don't mind the colored stuff; maybe it'll look neat in the tank...
Thanks,
Shane
<<It’s up to you, but since you are biting the bullet anyway, you may want to
consider buying a few 30lb bags of aragonite material in your chosen grain size
from the LFS and get the remainder of the bulk from Home Depot, etc…. The Home
Depot/garden center sand is likely the same composition (silica) as the colored
sand you are contemplating, only without the dye…might even be a less expensive
solution. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Quick Question About Sand
From My LFS – 11/02/07
Thanks for checking this out Eric,
<<My pleasure, Shane>>
I guess if it'll be okay, I will use a mixture of the HD non-aragonite sand and
the sand from the LFS like you suggest.
<<Will be fine>>
Should I layer these? Or mix it all up?
<<If you have sand-sifters (gobies) that may not appreciate the sharp edges of
the silica sand then place this on the bottom with the softer (round) aragonite
material on top…else, you can “mix it up” (will likely end up this way
anyways)>>
I was thinking about getting 120 lbs of aragonite sand and then 150 lbs of the
sand from HD's garden center.
<<Sounds like a fine plan to me, mate>>
Thanks again for the advice.
Shane
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
Sand Problem, floating bits
10/30/07
I have a 220 gallon FOWLR setup. There is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches of
sugar-fine sand in the display as a substrate. My filtering consists of about
150 pounds of live rock, a protein skimmer and a UV sterilizer.
Over the past several months, I have added a wrasse and Picasso trigger that
like to "play" in the sand. The issue with this is that my water always has lots
if sand particles floating around from them stirring the sand up. I never have
very "clear" water anymore and I miss that. The sand has been in there for about
three years. Do you think replacing the sugar-fine sand with something with a
little larger grain size might help?
<Yes>
How big is too big? I don't want to use large gravel that will create a
maintenance nightmare. Thanks for the help.
<Just about anything larger than your current substrate and smaller than crushed
coral will do the job. Anything you put in there will be stirred up, but it only
takes a slightly larger grain for it to promptly settle. Personally I like
Caribsea’s Seaflor special grade for non-reefs. It is large enough to not blow
around and not so large as to require constant gravel vacuuming. Thank you,
Scott V.>
Open remark, query from Sara to
the Crew <Re: Aragonite solubility, use as a SW substrate>
6/30/07
Hi all,
I've noticed that it's said quite often that an aragonite sand bed helps
"buffer" a marine tank. And I know a lot of people believe this. But my
question to you all is, is there any way I can convince any of you that
it probably doesn't to any appreciable degree? Or have you already heard
this story too many times before?
<Is so that many "types" of aragonite are relatively insoluble (have a
lower Ksp (product solubility constant) than the resident/extant pH of a
given desire... in a marine set-up... Won't bolster pH to the wanted
degree... but do some good in lower levels... do provide other benefits>
And I'm sorry, I know I'm new and I must be sounding like smart-arse...
but it is my birthday today, so anyone want to humor me?
:-D
Best,
Sara
<Oh! Happy bday to you! If you were here I'd spank you... What is it...
26 times? Might not do you much good, but would work wonders for moi!
Heeeeee!
BobF> |
Sara --
Up to a point of course aragonite or calcite in the aquarium will
dissolve into the water and act as a buffer. But I've heard enough
stories of old brackish water tanks gradually (sometimes suddenly)
losing alkalinity when relying on this method alone. My assumption is
that once the sand grains are covered with bacteria and algae they are
isolated from the water. I liken this to the candy coating around the
chocolate in an M&M. Anyway, eventually this barrier prevents adequate
buffering, and tank pH drops. So while I'm all for using coral sand or
whatever as *part* of the buffering system, I far prefer using
calcareous material in a filter where it can be deep cleaned or replaced
every few months (or whenever pH drop is noticed).
Happy birthday, by the way. My day has not been so good -- came home to
an aquarium flooding the living room carpet! I must be the only man in
England with a flood inside his house rather than outside.
Cheers, Neale |
Cheap Aragonite Sand…What Was It Called
Again? – 06/17/07
Hello again!
<<Hiya Rob!>>
Thanks for all your helpful advice about my sometimes stupid questions!
<<Only “stupid” when you don’t ask>>
I have yet another...!
<<Shoot>>
I have been searching at Home Depot....which bothers me because I work at
Lowe’s...,
<<Hee-hee!>>
for the sand that is aragonite based.
<<Difficult if not impossible to find of late…supposedly the company that used
to provide this was bought out>>
I've searched three stores, and asked employees. No luck!
<<Not surprising, I haven’t seen it around Columbia for several years>>
What is it called?
<<Originally…Southdown Tropical Play Sand From The Caribbean, distributed by
Southdown Inc….Later marketed in the same bag but without the “Southdown”
moniker (bought out?) and distributed by Oldcastle Stone Products…Which was also
supposedly bought out, and the sand soon thereafter disappeared from the stores.
But, rumor has it that some K-Mart stores are selling an aragonite based
product…though this too I have not found around here>>
Is the sand white?
<<Not so much…but is lighter in color than the silica sands. Aragonite sand will
also feel “soft” as compared to “sharp” Silica sand…and of course, the “vinegar
test” can confirm>>
I want a DSB in a large tank, and can really save some money here.
<<I can relate…I have a thousand-pounds of sugar-fine Aragonite sand in my
display, and another three-hundred-pounds in my refugium>>
(It’s a shame what marketing and packaging can do to prices for the same item
outside of our hobby! I guess they figure we have the money...).
Thanks again for your help!
Rob
<<Good luck with your search. Eric Russell>>
CaribSea black substrates – 05/11/07
Hi there! <Hi.> I have a question on substrates. CaribSea has a black
substrate but does that contain the trace minerals and ph stabilizer like the
aragonite substrates?
<They sell several dark substrates. Eco-Complete is black, but intended for
planted tanks. Some of their cichlid substrates are dark, too. In addition,
there is Coralline Volcano Beach, which is dark, but also has aragonite
particles. Most dark particles are probably of volcanic origin, they are
chemically rather inert and won’t help much with pH buffering. Only the whitish
broken shells, coral skeleton parts etc. in the substrates are aragonite/calcite
and will buffer your pH and while dissolving provide trace elements beneficial
to inverts for shell/skeleton construction. See the homepage of CaribSea for
more further information/pictures and search WWM entering “CaribSea” to find
further recommendations/reviews/opinions on the products. Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Marine Substrate Q; Sand Size for Goby – 05/08/07
good day to all!
<Hello Again.>
(follow-up question) sir
<No formalities, Adam or AJ is fine.>
regarding the size of my sand, it is about 1mm to 2mm, is that okay for fishes
that tend to burrow in the sand like a yellow wrasse and a sand sifting goby?
will they get hurt since it is not a sugar fine sand?
<Depends on how small the specimens are, but if your getting an average sized
goby, this shouldn't be a problem.>
thanks!
<Welcome, Adam J.>
Marine Substrate Questions 5/7/07
Good day to all the staff of wetwebmedia!
<Hi!>
I've got some concerns regarding the type/size of sand to be used, here it
goes...
<Okay.>
1. I was looking for a sugar fine sand for my 50 gallon tank but could not find
one available locally so I chose the one with the bigger grain, (just slightly
bigger), my question is that I'm planning to add a sand sifting goby and a
yellow wrasse in the future, will they be ok in the sand I bought since they
like to burrow and sift through them? will the slightly larger grains be harmful
to them?
<Well you don't say how large is my friend...so there no way to give you an
answer really. You should be able to find out the average "mm size" on the grain
you are purchasing. I can tell you that you will need a DSB for these critters
though.>
My second question is that i have some sugar fine sand in my old aquarium
(20gallons, about 2 months in operation), can I use that for the new tank?
<Yes I would use some to seed the new tank.>
If so do I still need to clean it (with saltwater or tap water?)
<If it's already in an established, functional display...no.>
or should I just directly put it in the new tank?
<See above. use to seed new sand.>
thanks in advance for your reply, more power to your wonderful site!
<Welcome/Thanks, Adam J.>
Used Sand Bed: to use or not? ...and how to level 4/26/07
Hello,
<Hello.>
I perused your site trying to find an answer to this but could not find it.
I recently bought a used 120 gallon acrylic tank. The previous owner had a reef
setup. He had a good established DSB when it was up and running. When I bought
the tank from him it had been broken down for 4-6 weeks. The sand was in
buckets. I am now getting ready to set the tank up and am wondering if it’s ok
to use this sand.
<Can eventually be of use, but will initially lengthen the time needed to cycle
and ultimately stabilize for livestock.>
It’s been in buckets in his garage so the temperature has fluctuated
significantly. The sand is dry.
<Ahh. Well, there you have it. I wouldn't bother unless you are seriously
budget-limited. Better sand can be had. Is not totally useless, but will just be
"filler" for some time.>
Also, I am placing this on a hardwood floor.
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstdfloors.htm >
The floor seems to not be level. What is the best way to level the tank to
reduce structural stress?
It needs to be raised approx .75 inches on one side.
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstdleveling.htm >
Any help you could offer would be much appreciated.
<I would simply be regurgitating what I read in the links above.>
Timothy Pleus
<-GrahamT>
Lava Rocks, marine substrates, not reading... 3/19/07
Lava rocks are believed to be porous
<Most, no... are very smooth>
and is good for bacterial growth
<No... inappropriate make-up period... almost entirely siliceous... Want
carbonates>
but many don't recommend it for Reef and marine tank because it may contain some
unknown minerals and silicates.
<Yes>
Are coral chips good enough for bacterial growth ? And how about limestones?
I heard that limestones are good.
I am using ceramic noodles (bury in coral chips) for bacterial growth with
supplement of live rocks and DSB.
I am thinking of adding in or replacing the coral chips with something that is
more porous and more effective for bacterial growth. What will be your
suggestions ?
<Yes... Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>
Broken Glass Aquarium Seal...What to do? 2/28/07
My 55 gal saltwater tank is losing it's seal (salt forming on outside
edges/corners).
<Sorry to hear that.>
I think this would be as good a time as any to change everything over to live
sand in my new tank.
<If you have sand already in the aquarium...and have live rock, the microfauna
fauna from the rock has likely made it's way to the sand.....you already have
live sand.>
I have about 30 lbs of live Fiji rock and fish in my current tank.
<...See above.>
I planned on borrowing a pump and heater to placing in my current tank and
moving my rock in with the new sand and get it up and running. How long would I
have to give the new tank/sand to adjust and should I use some of the water I
currently have in my tank?
<I would get two rubber tubs (likely about 30 gallons in volume each.) Move as
much water from the tank as you can evenly into each tub and compensate by
filling with mixed water (preferably mixed a few days in advance). Move the
livestock into one tub and the rock/sand into another. I would perform daily
water changes on each of 10% if not then 50% weekly. Put powerheads and heater
in each...make them as stable as possible your animals may be here for a
while...if you can't do this see if an LFS will house them for a week, longer is
they can. Remove the tank to a garage or well ventilated area and remove the
current silicone sealing and reseal, allow to cure for a few days. Then fill it
with freshwater to check for leaks...if it leaks...do it again. Once you have
it right, set-up the tank as you would a new tank, utilizing your old rock. If
want to utilize a new type of substrate/sand that is fine but I would add at
least a few pounds of the old sand to seed the new sand. At this point do not
add the new fish yet, monitor the chemistry and when stable then acclimate
them...much more is posted in detail on WWM.>
What sand do you like?
<Fine sized (sugar), aragonite based for most applications.>
How much sand for 55 gal.?
<Depends you want deep-sand bed (functional) or a shallow sand bed (aesthetic
appeal)?>
Kathy DeMann
<Adam J.>
Beach Sand Use in Marine Aquaria 2/28/07
Hi
<Hello.>
..love your site!
<Thanks.>
I've read over the faq on live sand but I want to collect dry sand from my
local beach.
<Uh-oh.>
I live in New Smyrna Beach, Fl, just south of Daytona. I've called every
Home Depot and every sand contractor in the county and no one sells South
Down or aragonite sand.
<No that secret has been out and mostly gone for ages now.>
I have a 55 gal and want to do 4". I was thinking of collecting it high up
on the beach, close to the dunes. If this is ok to do,
<Typically no, most beach sand is silicate in nature, and this would not be
beneficial to a marine aquarium.>
how do I go about washing?
<The problem is not cleaning, disinfecting the sand but what it is composed
of.>
Thanks a million.. Jen
<Adam J.>
Re: Are you DBL sure I can't use beach sand?? 3/1/07
Thanks for the quick reply...
<Of course.>
but I'm confused...
<Okay.>
if the marine critters are ok with it and we have a ton of them here...starfish
and the like why wouldn't it be ok for my tank?
<You are making the common mistake here of comparing something as large as the
ocean to an enclosed bio-tope not even a fraction of it's size. Please search
WWM the effects of silicates are well documented. You are not the first to ask
this question.>
Is it due to the calcium and buffering capacity?
<Somewhat...it's not as efficient as aragonite but it's mostly die to the
effects of silicate on the nutrient levels in the water, trapping detritus and
causing unbearable algae tirades.>
Also, what is your opinion of Haitian live rock compared to Fiji Aquacultured?
<Both are nice, Fijian is probably cheaper and easier to come by.>
Very grateful for your help. Thank you!
<Of course, Adam J.>
Re: Resp. to removing sand from florida beaches 3/1/07
From Kaz
I used to live in Deland near New Smyrna Beach. From what I remember the mile
long beach is a nature reserve and, as such, collection of sand is probably
prohibited anyway.
<Thank you, being in Southern Cal. I am not familiar with your law, however I do
encourage everyone to check w/ local fish&game departments before interfering
with your natural surroundings. Adam J.>
Re: Sand from beach, Necessary Filtration in Reef Aquaria 3/5/07
Wow. that was fast!
<Oh I just happened to be answering some other questions when your email came
in.>
I have another question if you would be so kind...
<Of course.>
I've put in aragonite and bought 70lbs Fiji premium which is now cycling in my
tank with powerheads and skimmer and an HOT. My question is this: What type of
filtration to go with? I've done a ton of research on wet/dry and know about the
nitrates. Therefore I was going to leave out the bioballs and basically use it
as a sump. But my tank is not drilled (couldn't be, tempered glass) so I need a
prefilter. After doing more research I'm worried about how unreliable the
prefilter and U tube can be. So what is my alternative?
<A hang on refugium.>
I've read everything on WWM on plumbing with a prefilter and there doesn't seem
to be a fail safe answer.
<There are tricks to make them more reliable, but I can't comment on hose
because I don't have any personal experience. well because I never trusted the
d@mn things to be honest.>
Shouldn't I have some sort of a filter?
<A large skimmer, lots of water flow, the live rock...you have DSB...and LOTS of
frequent water changes...accompanied with a low/moderate stocking level is what
I would aim for. If you can swing it look into a hang on refugium.>
I know live rock is the best filtration but isn't it prudent to have carbon,
<Not in a mature system...though good to have on hand in an emergency
situation.>
PolyFilters,
<Nah, can be uses but not a necessity.>
etc? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
<Welcome.>
Jennifer
<Adam J.>
Crushed coral and descriptions in the book Reef Invertebrates
2/14/07
Hello again,
<Hi there! Mich here.>
Very quick and easy question;
<Perfect!>
In Reef Invertebrates pg 37 is the "Coral gravel" and "Coral Shells" spoken
of what pet stores commonly refer to as Crushed Coral?
<Crushed coral is actually more akin to the coral gravel than the coral
shells. Coral shells are much more coarse and offers very little in
buffering capabilities.>
Seems to me it is, but wanted clarification.
<Hope that helps. -Mich>
Which Marine Substrate?...How Much? - 01/26/07
Hi Bob/staff...greetings Crew.
<<Hello>>
I have a 29-gallon system, with BakPak skimmer, 10-gallon sump, and # 30 LR. My
tank has been running bare bottom for a few months now. At first it stayed
clean, but now there is still some algae and the corals don't look as good as
they used to. My mushrooms don't expand well and zoas have been strangely
melting down suddenly.
<<Mmm, likely deteriorating water quality/buildup of nitrogenous
compounds. Stepping up water changes and employing some chemical filtration
(carbon/Poly-Filter) should help>>
I want to have a sand bed; I hate the way bare bottomed tanks look.
<<Me too>>
Can you please share your opinions on substrates, and what you think will do
well in my system, (grain size of sand, depth of the sand bed, live rock
placement) and ways of keeping the sand clean and the tank healthy.
<<Many opinions to found on this...but for me, a sugar-fine aragonite substrate
of about four-inches in depth would be my choice here. Utilizing strong/robust
water flow will help keep detritus in suspension and out of the sand bed. Do
have a look here and among the associated links at the top of the page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
Thanks for any help.
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>
Substrate sel. 11/24/06
Hi, guys and girls
<Hello Wikus! Tim answering your question today!>
I have more questions! The more I read on your site, the more faults (gaps or
possible issues) I see in my own setup.
<As do I my friend! We are all constantly learning in this hobby!>
At the moment I have a 2" to 3" layer of coarse crushed coral (2-10mm).
<That may be a problem... as it will undoubtedly collect detritus over time and
so create serious nitrate problems!>
There is loads of life in the substrate (pods, worms and small white stars (I
think they might be brittle stars) , but when stirred it clouds the water quite
heavily (Lots of detritus even with vacuuming weekly).
<The problem is that with such a thickness of coarse coral, you will not be able
to vacuum as deeply into the substrate as the detritus is able to settle.>
I've read that open brain corals would prefer a sandier substrate. I have
ordered a 55G custom built tank to use as a sump/refugium with 50kg of sugar
fine aragonite (DSB).
<Brilliant! You will no doubt see a great improvement to the quality of your
water.>
Would it be wise for me to take out the current substrate (1/3 per week) and
replace it with either sugar fine aragonite or 1-2mm crushed coral? And
considering that I will be incorporating a DSB, how thick would you recommend me
to go with the substrate? To me the substrate in the main display is only for
aesthetic reasons, but I do not mind a DSB in the main display.
<I am unsure of the size of your main display tank, but assuming that the
sump/refugium is adequately sized, you do not need a further DSB in the main
tank (though of course this would be helpful... the more the merrier!). As such,
I would recommend that the substrate be no thicker than 1/2" to avoid detritus
build up. Though be careful as the refugium is commonly overlooked when it comes
to proper maintenance routines. Be sure to properly maintain your DSB to
maximize its functionality and avoid any problems.>
Thank you very much for your time and all the valuable information.
Wikus
Re: Using alternate substrate for DSB + coral sand for buffering. -
11/02/06
Hi bob!
Thanks for replying so fast!
Just mailed you back to tell you guys what horrible laws, conditions prevail in
our country (India).
1) ALL REEF BUILDING CORALS are banned. Yes, ALL!
<Didn't know this... are there reasons stated/offered?>
2) You are not supposed to keep any 'nautilus' spp.
<Mmmmm>
3) You may keep live rocks, but you have to prove (by showing) to any authorities
that might turn up, that they do not have any hitch hiking corals!
4) The only dedicated, 'mass available' aquarium items are available from a
Taiwanese brand named 'AZoo'.
<They do have some good products>
5) All these conditions and laws are in a country, which is probably the biggest
and best source of freshwater species in the world, and many many beautiful
saltwater species.
e.g. Puntius demasoni endemic to a southern river in our country.
6) A population of 1 billion, so a very big market for aquarium manufacturers.
Still, very very slow improvements.
<Ah, yes>
And with all this, my idol bob...how can you expect us to have a variety of
crushed coral sands!? The only sand that is available is red sea 'reef base' at
an enormously overpriced rate.
<Ridiculous... so much natural material is used on your shores for various
purposes already...>
Regards, (and crying over the state of affairs in our 'nutrient rich' country)
Amod Oke.
<Heeee! Be chatting, fighting the battles we choose. BobF>
Beach Sand 11/1/06
Hello,
<Hi>
I have one quick question. I live on the Oregon coast and was curious if I were
to take wet sand (by the water) and start an aquarium with it, if the nitrifying
bacteria would live in tropical temperatures.
Brian
<Not really a good idea, most of the microfauna/flora will not survive the
elevated temperatures of a reef tank, and unknown contaminates are a real
concern.>
<Chris>
Silica Sand/Aragonite Mix in a Reef? - 10/10/06
Hey.
<<Hey>>
I wanted to get your opinion on using play box sand for a reef tank.
<<Is doable>>
I have done a lot of reading on this and have gotten contradicting opinions, as
with many issues in this hobby.
<<Indeed>>
I found sand called Kolorscape which is distributed by Oldcastle (same company
that once distributed the famous but impossible to find Southdown).
<<I've heard some about this sand before...supposedly aragonite based>>
This sand is supposedly mined in a different area and is not purely aragonite.
<<Easy enough to test>>
From my understanding the sand passes the "vinegar test" but not all of the sand
dissolves meaning it's mixed with at least some silica type sand.
<<Hmm, maybe so...still...better than "all" silica. Not that using silica sand
is necessarily bad, it just doesn't offer any buffer capacity/earth elements to
the system>>
It also clearly states on the bag that it may contain silica.
<<Ah, I see...>>
Is this really that big of a deal?
<<Not in my opinion>>
I read that silica sand is inert and won't release anything into the water.
<<I don't think that is entirely true, but I think the concern for silica sand
to foster huge diatom blooms or other maladies in our marine tanks is mostly
overrated...and even less of an issue in the case of this "mixed" sand. I've
used 100-percent silica sand in a couple marine systems over the years and can't
attribute any deleterious effects to the use of the sand>>
The source stated that it's only a rumor that won't die.
<<As with so many of them>>
In your opinion/experience have you found this to be true?
<<As stated>>
Should I spend the big bucks for aquarium sand or take a chance and save a
bundle?
<<Considering the Kolorscape does contain aragonite...I would use it>>
I have read forums where people stated that they used Kolorscape and loved it,
but the opinion was based on only a few months of use. Any thoughts?
<<Perhaps you will let us know/write a piece on its performance>>
By the way, I already have aragonite that will be used for the deep sand bed in
the refugium so buffering won't be an issue.
<<Likely wouldn't anyway...but very good>>
I want to use the Kolorscape as a 1/2 inch deep sand in the display
and am only concerned about the safety/silica issues.
<<Go for it!>>
Thank you,
Jon
<<Pleased to assist, EricR>> Silica Sand vs. Aragonite Sand - 10/03/06
Greetings again.
<<Hello>>
I am in the planning stages of a new system.
<<Great fun!>>
I have seen (play sand) for sale at several Hardware stores. I have not as yet
been able to perform the vinegar test so I can't say for certain that the sand
is aragonite or silicate based.
<<Okay>>
What is the opinion of WWM in regard to using silicate verses aragonite
substrates???
<<Mmm, the opinions will vary...but I'll give you mine. I know aquarists who
have used silica sand in FO marine systems with no problems. I have used it
myself before for the "bulk" of the DSB in a coral propagation system with no
adverse affect. Silica sand can be used, but it will offer "no buffering
properties" and tends to be sharp/abrasive to sand/bottom dwelling critters. It
is my preference to use sugar-fine aragonite whenever possible>>
Thanks
<<Regards, EricR>>
Halimeda Leaves 7/13/06
Dear Crew,
<Paul>
I have two questions regarding a batch of Halimeda leaves that has accumulated
on the surface of my otherwise sugar-fine aragonite substrate:
<Okay>
(1) Will the leaves trap detritus and contribute to a high nitrate & phosphate
problem?
<No, not likely... in fact...>
(2) Will the leaves harbor small organisms that can sustain a Mandarin Dragonet
should I acquire one?
<Will likely help, and...>
In other words, I am trying to determine if the dead Halimeda leaves have any
usefulness before I siphon them out.
<I would leave them, enjoy their beauty and utility. Are almost completely
calcium carbonate... of good shape...>
My tank is a 75-gallon reef tank with plenty of live rock, coral, anemones, and
12 small (2" long) fish that unfortunately don't eat
algae. I've had 20 of these fish (Blue Damsels, Pajama Cardinals) but I've
recently reduced the fish population to 12 in an attempt to control high
nitrates, phosphates and hair algae. There is also a 29-gallon refugium with a
small batch of Chaetomorpha that does not grow as fast as the algae.
Thanks very much,
Paul.
<If we could easily harvest such calcareous material and offer it as purposeful
substrate... it would sell. Bob Fenner>
Home Depot Sand? 7/8/06
Hello!
<<Hello!>>
I've been through your FAQs on sand and before I pay the $36 for the 40 lbs of
sand at my LFS, I just had to check on this sand called Colorscapes at Home
Depot.
<<Hmm, don't recall hearing this was calcareous...but that doesn't mean you
can't use it if it's not, just won't get the benefit of a buffer. Best I can
offer is to test this sand yourself. Place a pinch in a small container and add
some white vinegar...if it bubbles/dissolves the sand then it is calcareous>>
I've used Southdown in my prior aquarium and it seemed to
work well (after rinsing and a week of nothing but cloudiness)!
<<Mmm, yes indeed...and is what I used as well (950lbs of it)>>
I need enough sand for a 120 gallon tank, the calculator on another site says
131 pounds should give me 3". Any advice?
<<You say you've read up on sand, but have you read up on DSBs? (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm)>>
Thanks!
Regards, EricR
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