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FAQs about Stands, Supports for Aquariums: Leveling
Related Articles:
Aquarium Stands, Marine Tanks,
Canopies, Covers &
Lighting Fixtures,
Related FAQs: Aquarium Stands 1, Aquarium Stands 2,
What to Use, About Floors
Underneath, DIY,
Finishing/Coating,
Commercial, Modification,
Repair, & Tanks,
Tanks 2,
Tanks 3, Tanks 4, Aquarium Repair 1, Acrylic Aquarium Repair, Used
Aquarium Gear, |
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Aquarium Stand Leveling Mat – 05/06/08
Robert, Anthony, All;
<<Eric here…Bob is still about, of course…but Anthony has moved on to other
endeavors>>
Have not chatted in a while and hope you are all well.
<<Speaking for myself, yes…thank you>>
Getting ready to install another 75g tank with all the 'wisdom' from the years
:)
<<Excellent>>
Question: 75g AGA-MF glass tank. Oak stand appears level to all my checking.
<<Okay>>
However, it will be going onto carpet and against a wall.
<<Mmm…I see>>
Previous aquariums there needed to have slight shim in front.
<<Indeed…the carpet “tack-strip” tends to create a bit of a “rise” along the
walls>>
This is something wifey say "No" to now.
<<Hmm…may have no choice, mate>>
So, I was hoping to utilize something akin to a 1/8" exercise mat, either blown
poly or high density rubber.
<<This won’t “fix” the problem with the ridge along the wall…and I don’t
recommend adding another layer of padding on top of an already padded carpet,
anyway>>
I would probably glue/affix Pergo to the top to ensure that it leveled as 'a
whole' and not just one corner, which would stress the cabinet more than the
tank. Almost like a floating wood floor area on carpet.
<<This thin laminate flooring will not have enough structural strength/integrity
to be of use. You need to use a single piece of ¾”or thicker plywood
sheeting…and even then, this will require “shimming” along the front if placed
close to the wall>>
Your thoughts?
<<I understand your dilemma concerning the Mrs.…but I feel your current plan
will not work. You can’t “float” a 75g tank and stand on top of carpet. I think
your best option is to utilize a piece of plywood as explained, with dimensions
matching that of the tank stands base, to provide a solid support under the
tank. And yes, if this is placed close to the wall, or if the floor is just not
flat and level in general…you “will” have to shim>>
Thanks much!
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Leveling on an old warped floor, Reading,
using WWM 5/4/08
Hi,
I just bought a 55gal tank (48 x 12.5 x 21 inches) with a stand of standard
construction 1/2" particle board (pretty sure it is level). However, I am
moving into a 1930's house on the third floor on hardwood. I am not 100% sure of
the construction, but am trying to place it near an outside wall (my best
option). Should I be more concerned about the weight issue against this outside
wall?
<Yes>
I would be happy to put foam btwn tank and stand.
<Not of use here>
The main problem is the floor is obviously and grossly unlevel throughout the
house. With a small amount of water the difference is that the front right
corner (away from wall) is 3/4" lower than back left. So from left to right I
drop a 1/4" and from back to front I drop 1/2" (over 12.5 inches!).
<!>
I cannot adequately shim this amount,
<Sure you can>
and may have difficulty finding someone who can actually cut anything like that
to specs.
<Such shims are available pre-cut from Lowe's, Home Depot...>
Thinking of screwing plywood boards together for extra support for the flooring,
but completely unsure of how to compensate for such a large difference in the
level and keep everything stable and safe. Please help.
Sincerely and with great admiration of past articles,
Jayson
<I would cut, place a good piece of ply (3/4" or even 1") under all legs of the
stand, shim up the ply... the pre-cut wood from the hardware store... fashioning
all w/o the tank on... coating the level-device (with a urethane, varathane),
perhaps staining ahead to match the floor, stand... You have read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
the linked files above? Bob Fenner>
Issues
involving leveling and placement 2/27/08
Hi Bob,
First off let me say Thank You. I have learned so much reading through
your posts. You have unknowingly help me in so many ways.
<Ahhh!>
I have finally felt the need to write you cause I'm sort of at a loss
and besides the 2 hang-ups, I would like to know how a pro like you
thinks I'm doing. I have a 4 month old 10 gallon, 1 month old 44 gallon
hex and just purchased a used 110 gallon saltwater tank all glass 1/2"
(Marineland built 01') and standard pine stand (Perfecto) cost me $200.
<Bargain>
I plan to use this set-up for freshwater. It has two drilled holes in
the back corners. I re-silicone in existing bulkheads and piped in 90
degree joints and ball levers to each (just one of the issue you've
helped with). I plan on adding a Penn Plax 1200 canister filter to make
use of the existing holes. I also will be placing a 48" weighted bubble
wand down around some rock I will pick up at HD ( lava rock, slate,
quartz, or onyx). I am using 2 or 3-50lb bags of pool filter sand as
substrate,
<Mmm, am not such a fan of this silica... hard to keep clean... doesn't
do much biologically...>
I have Cory Cats and an Elephant Nose that will appreciate it.
<Is this the "flat" whitish shiny material? If so, Corydoras don't
really like silicates>
As far as decor goes I'm trying to recreate African river bed so some
plants, rocks and petrified/driftwood will be it. My issue has been
placing the tank. Right now I have it on my second floor Master Bedroom
on hardwood flooring against the staircase wall which I've been told has
doubled up floor beams along that wall, then another one 12" from that.
So the tank being roughly 48x24x24 is sitting parallel with 3 floor
beams. To my calculations that's like a Geo Metro being parked in a
4x2x2 space in my room once full....eeks.
<Heeee! Not quite Geo>
I could move it against the front wall of the house which is obviously a
load bearing wall, my Hubby does not like this idea cause that is
directly over our couch as opposed to it being over a hall closet like
it is now. My 3rd option is I could bring it down stairs (which is still
not concrete cause I have a basement) so the same issues would be
present but more load bearing walls available. I don't really like that
idea cause I have 3 tanks down there now and really want one in my room.
I don't go in the basement at all so I don't want it down there. My
thoughts on this is to just not worry people use water beds which carry
much more water/wood weight and place them where ever they want.
<Yes... but... note how the weight is "spread out">
Any thoughts?
<Yes... I'd have that hub-ster make a piece of one piece plywood to put
underneath all feet of the stand... to do the same spreading... Shim
this up if the whole caboodle is not level>
Other situation on hand.... I have used a playing card to check the
leveling of the tank on the stand and on the front left side a 6" area
and rear right back a 10" area at/around the corners I can pass the card
straight through. What can I use to help this without lifting the tank
off the stand?
<I would lift all off... place a piece of compressible foam under... and
the stand on the ply as above...>
I ask cause I cannot pull the tank out of the stand without breaking at
least one bulkhead seal, due to them being so close
<Mmm, better to cut, put in a union for both now...>
the back corners and inner wood frame of the stand would not allow it.
Also the tank just sits on top the stand not fitting into a lip and
their is no center support touching the tank at all except the one on
the tank itself (the black trim which covers around the top bottom and a
middle bar from front to back on both top and bottom) is that normal?
<Yes... but I would put one in myself...>
My 44 Hex has a lip is sits in on the stand. Should I break the seal and
build a lip up around the stand?
<Mmm, I would break the seal... but not put a lip... unless you live in
an area subject to seismic activity>
but then it would be virtually impossible to move the tank in or out of
the stand. Do you think I should try adding the 1/4 foam board from HD?
<Yes>
If so do I just add a small piece where needed? or lay the whole board
across the top (cutting out spaces for the plumbing of course)?
<The latter>
I attached a picture so you could see it. Thank You for your help in
advance, Tammy W.-Upstate NY
<Welcome. BobF, Southern Cal.> |
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How level does a tank have to be ?/
Acrylic Repair
Tank Leveling/Sump Repair 2/15/08
Dear Crew,
<Eric.>
You’ve helped me with my various setups in the past, including this one, and was
hoping you can answer this. I am setting up a 65 gallon AGA RR tank. The tank
sits on a heavy duty wood stand that was built by the original owner.
The setup sits on a concrete basement floor ( no carpet, etc. ). The tank is
level lengthwise, but the front is about ¼” lower than the back.
<Not good.>
If I am correct in assuming that that is a problem, what is the best way of
leveling the tank?
<Shimming, cutting long tapered pieces to give support over the entire weight
bearing areas of the stand.>
Should I shim it or run a length of ¼” wood under the front.
<The latter, along with long shims down the side to distribute the load.>
If shimming, do I place shims the whole length, and along the sides where they
are now raised?
<Yes, just combine this with the continuous piece in the front.>
The shims will probably protrude from under the tank. Can I trim them?
<Yes.>
The setup also came with a DIY acrylic sump which has a leak.
There are no visible cracks in the vicinity of the leak so I am assuming it is a
bad seal. I’ve been told to use Weldon to repair it but can’t find it locally.
<This sounds like a leaky seam. WeldOn will fix this, do be sure to thoroughly
clean the area of any salt or other residue first (just rinse with water).>
I have found a hobby shop that carries a product called Tenax 7R, which the
owner says he used to repair his acrylic skimmer. Would this be ok to use?
<Yes, this will work fine.>
Thanks,
Eric
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
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Getting a Planar
Surface for a 75g Home-Built Stand 2/1/08
Hi Bob & others,
<Hello Jase, Scott V with you.>
Have just spent the past hour or more reading your articles on aquarium
stands, especially
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstdleveling.htm . Wow, what a lot of great
info!
<Many innovative solutions.>
I have a home-built stand for a 75g aquarium and am very pleased with
how everything came out, but find that the top isn't exactly planar.
<Happens to the best of us.>
With the tank sitting on it, I have a gap that is perhaps 1/16" under
one of the corners extends at least a foot in each direction. The tank
has a plastic frame around the bottom which holds the glass up maybe
1/8" off the stand -- including a strip that runs front-to back across
the middle. So... it only actually rests on this 1 1/2" wide strip
around the edges and across the middle (I think this is pretty standard
for glass aquariums?)
<Yes.>
I'd like to get a once-and-for-all solution to the non-planar problem,
and was thinking of trying to coat the contact strips of the top of the
stand with something that would mold exactly to the tank shape --
something like Bondo, wood putty, etc. I see a couple of mentions of
self-leveling epoxy for this purpose. Can you explain a bit further?
What would this be sold as?
<Fiberglass resin poured into a reservoir made on the top of the stand
will self level.>
Seems like it might be less mess/hassle
<It is, but for some a good alternative.>
to find something with a paste-like consistency that I could set the
actual tank on and then let harden -- to get an exact custom-molded fit.
Question is just what to use?
<I like the Bondo idea, it is basically the same fiberglass resin with a
glass filler mixed in. Use Vaseline or some other release agent on the
tank (only for glass aquariums).>
Finally, I've mounted the stand on 8 sturdy casters (2 at each corner--
yes, it's going on a very strong floor). I've checked to be sure they're
rated for this much weight, but wonder how concerned I should be about
whatever minor flexing/bumping will occur if I roll it full. Thoughts?
<This can be done, but I would not risk rolling a full tank. 75 gallons
is a lot of water! At the very least, put a couple of the castors in the
middle to limit flexing.>
Thanks so much, Jase
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
Re: Getting a Planar
Surface for a 75g Home-Built Stand 2/1/08
One possible solution occurred to me yesterday: expanding insulation
foam. I'm thinking I'd figure some way to create a 1/2" or so gap
between the tank and the stand, then spray expanding foam into that gap.
Of course I'd need to trim excess afterward and figure out some
way to prevent the foam from sticking to the tank (layer of foil taped
to the tank bottom first?), but it seems that that would create the
sort perfectly even support I'm looking for. Thoughts? Heard of anyone
trying something like this?
<Yes, I have actually seen this done and it can work. For the amount of
correction you need you could get away with a piece of insulating
Styrofoam to set the tank on. But, being a perfectionist when it comes
to water holding tanks in my home, I really like the Bondo idea. It can
take the load, but does shrink I believe 15% as it cures (not noticeable
over 1/16”). Good luck, Scott V.> |
How level is level enough?
1/3/08
Hey Guys, great site!
I am setting up a 55 gallon ( 4 x 1 base ) on a wood stand on a carpeted floor
(sound familiar?). Naturally, when I set the tank on top of the stand, it was
off slightly. So, I began using wood shims to level the tank. I'm wondering if
being about 1/16th of an inch out is ok? I've asked the guys at the local pet
store and they simply responded with "it should be perfect". I've spent the last
week and a half tweaking the shims, filling it, letting it settle, and
measuring.
I have a smaller 10 gallon tank on a solid wood dresser that I've leveled with
a piece of Styrofoam. The Styrofoam is great, but I'm not sure if it's possible
for me to do this with my new 55g setup.
Instead of the tank sitting "inside" the stand, there is about an inch wide lip
that the tank sits on top of. The pet store guy was baffled by this and didn't
have any advice for me. I would prefer not to shim because it seems like it
places pressure points on the corners. What is my best option for this type of
stand?
Chris
<Hello Chris. When setting up a big aquarium, you want to make the tank as level
as possible. This is usually easier by adjust the floor or stand that the tank
is going to sit on. That said, teeny-tiny errors shouldn't be a problem. The 180
litre tank next to mere is definitely not flat by a similar amount to yours, and
is fine. Anyway, you can use Styrofoam under tanks of all sizes, but do be aware
that some aquaria are specifically designed NOT to be used with Styrofoam
(typically they have external plastic bracing or trim along the bottom edges of
the tank, and the foam interferes with this somehow). On the other hand,
Styrofoam is generally safe with tanks that have a plain glass base pane with no
bracing or plastic trim at all. So you need to review the instructions that came
with your aquarium beforehand. Cheers, Neale.>
Leveling a 90g 1/1/08
Hello! Happy New Year's Eve!
<Hello, happy New Year now.>
I've been struggling all week to level my Christmas present, a 90 gallon AGA
(MegaFlow).
<Nice gift.>
My question is whether/if I can salvage my DIY stand constructed from 4x4's
(six) and 2x4's. Despite the fun in building it, it's just not level/planar.
<Leveling can of course be fixed via shims on the bottom of the stand, but how
non planar is it?>
The last ditch effort was to cut a 3/4" plywood piece (49"x20") to fit between
the stand and the tank, hoping to distribute the weight. I know well enough
never to shim between the tank and stand, but is it at all acceptable to shim
between the top of the stand and the bottom of the plywood to close the gaps?
<Maybe tricky to do. If you can cut the wood to make more of a wedge than just a
shim, keeping even support around the perimeter where the tank will sit (leaving
no gaps between plywood and stand).>
Again, nothing would come between the plywood and the tank- just the stand and
the plywood.
Otherwise, I'm thinking I may have made a reasonably nice workbench.
<Wow, have I built a few of those. Do also consider the possible use of a self
leveling epoxy on the top to give you a planar surface. If all you have built so
far is the frame and it is very far off it may be less work to redo the stand.
Whichever route you go be sure to place a piece of foam board between the stand
and tank.>
Thanks very much!
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
Acrylic tank leveling
12/17/07
First off I would like to thank you for all the great info on your site, and
thanks for your time answering my question.
<My pleasure.>
I have a 29 gallon acrylic tank on a hardwood stand with 6 feet.... Tank was
level when I set it up 9 months ago and now is not.
From left to right it is a 3/16ths off and from front to back it is 1/16th.
<Not ideal. When it was level nine months ago, was that empty or full? That
could explain the difference.>
I have read in other places that acrylic is far more forgiving to these leveling
issues.... is this true or should I be worried/tear everything down
and re-level.
<The current situation would not worry me too much. What grabs my attention is
the fact that it is changing. Something is giving out/compressing.>
I think the floor under the stand is my issue so I am thinking if it gets any
worse I will move it to another location in my living room.
<Sounds like the culprit.>
Would it be safe to leave as is or should I just bit the bullet?
<I would move it, perhaps check the floor if you have access to it underneath.
It is likely possible to reinforce under the tank.>
Thanks again for all your help and advice
Alex
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
Leveling an
Aquarium... actually, its stand on an uneven floor 8/16/07
I read through your web site looking for information on my problem,
especially the sections on stands and leveling an aquarium. Although it
was very informative i didn't find any posts similar to my current
circumstance so I'm writing in hopes you'll be able to guide me further.
<Okay>
Let me give you some history on my problem thus far.
8 years ago I bought a 150 gallon aquarium and stand from my local chain
store. I set up the tank and it was fine for the first 5 years.
It then split a seam on the bottom panel and developed a slow leak.
The leak was so slow in fact that it gave me time to remove my fish and
empty the tank. I took the tank back to the chain store and they
exchanged it with a new tank and stand.
<Nice>
The replacement was fine for about a year and a half when it developed
the same problem as the first one. A slow leak on the bottom panel, in
the back seam.
<...? Unusual>
I took it back to the chain store and they exchanged it again for a new
tank and stand.
<Super...>
I brought home the third replacement and set it up with a lot of
misgivings and paranoia that it would happen again but i figured the
third times the charm or whatever and tried to not let it get to me.
The tank was fine for about a year and 8 months when it also had the
same problem. It developed a slow leak via the bottom panel. Again i
took it back to the chain store and they replaced it with a new one.
<Something awry...>
The fourth replacement was set up on march 21st of this year. I need not
say that my paranoia and apprehension could not be placated this time,
nothing i tried made my feelings any less intense. After setting it up i
spent the next two months checking it every few minutes. Never wanting
to leave my home for any extensive amount of time cause it felt like i
was just waiting for the other shoe to drop. Then this past July i was
in bed reading when i heard what sounded like a loud crack followed by
rushing water. The tank this time around instead of developing a slow
leak on the bottom panel seams had cracked from the left side to the
right side of the bottom panel. I ran outside and grabbed a 32 gallon
rubber maid trash can i use for tank maintenance and ran inside and
began to fill it up with water as fast as i could so i could save my
fish. By the time i finished removing my fish they where all on the
gravel bed gasping for air.
I returned the tank and got a 5th replacement 2 weeks after that. Its
been sitting there empty while i try to figure out why this keeps
happening to me.
<The floor and/or the stand is imperfect...>
I posted about it in a couple places and people suggested it sounded
like the tank could be suffering some kind of torque or possibly be on
an uneven surface.
<Yes>
So i went to home depot and bought a carpenters level. I live in a one
story house which is built on a concrete slab. Before the tank was set
up the room its in was tiled and the floor was evened out by the people
who installed the tile. I decided to check the floor and it was level,
none of the tiles are cracked or appear warped in any way. I placed the
stand in place and checked it for wobbles and used the level on it and
it was level. I put the tank in place on the stand and used the level on
it and the tank is level from right to left but when i used the level
from the front to the back its off level.
<Yes... how much?>
I then tried to apply some of the knowledge i gained from searching the
web. I placed a 3/4's inch thick sheet of Styrofoam between the tank and
the stand to cushion the tank.
<Only "good" for about 1/16" of difference...>
I then used the level but still from front to back the tank shows its
off level. I decided to fill the tank just to the top of the bottom
trim. The water level is even at the front but its 1/8th of an inch
higher in the back.
<... too much>
While trying to ascertain the difference in water level i also noticed a
gap between the tank and the Styrofoam. I can easily slip a sheet of
paper between the tank and the Styrofoam in certain areas along the
length of the tank. Its not sitting flush on the Styrofoam.
<Not good>
I emptied the tank and tried using shims but i only managed to make the
tank more uneven than it currently is.
<The shims need to go under a continuous piece of material under the low
run of the stand...>
Also since the bottom of my stand is perfectly flat using shims creates
gaps under the stand that I'm not entirely comfortable with at all.
<Me neither>
How can i better pinpoint what is causing this discrepancy and how can i
fix it cause I'm feeling totally lost. Could 1/8 an inch cause the
bottom panel to torque and crack if not split a seam?
<Yes>
I don't want to fill up the tank until I'm certain its not just going to
be another repeat of the failures of the prior 4. Up until now i would
have thought 1/8 an inch to be negligible but now after my experience i
don't believe that is the case anymore.
sincerely,
Marsiggy
the tank as i got it.[] with Styrofoam []
<You are fortunate that the source replaced this tank... period... and
that it didn't suffer a catastrophic failure or hurt someone... Again,
the stand itself needs to be made level, planar and strong... perhaps by
applying a piece of ply under all, shimming this up consistently. Bob
Fenner> |
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Stand Question Please Help!! – 07/18/07
Hi - I love your website and it has tons of great info. I am relatively new
to the hobby and I just bought a 45 gal (36?Lx24?Hx12?w) tank made of ¼? glass
that has good looking seals that I plan to setup with brackish water. The only
thing is that the stand is a little strange and leans back towards the wall
making the empty tank unlevel by about 1/8?. I figured that I can probably
easily correct this by sanding or shimming the bottom of the stand (which would
true the vertical supports as well), but after looking at the setup closer, I
realized that the stand supports the tank by actually sitting the bottom pane of
glass onto a wooden box on the top of the stand with the plastic edges hanging
over. (it's sorta hard to see in the photo but maybe it helps?) The previous
owner had no problems with the tank, but since I was going to level the stand
anyway I was wondering if supporting the tank by the bottom pane of glass is OK
and if I should put some foam or something between the tank and the stand.
Thanks for any help!!
Lenny
<Hello Lenny. A 45 gallon tank is a *great* starting place. It's big enough to
give you lots of room for fish and good water quality, while small enough to be
manageable and easy to care for. So good choice. OK, as for the tank stand. It
certainly is a good idea to keep the tank as level as possible. But I can't
imagine 1/8th of an inch making much difference either way. So if the tank is
stable now, I'd just leave it. But that's your call. Anyway, as for adding foam,
unless the aquarium instructions say to do so, don't. Modern all-in-one aquarium
sets are usually designed for the glass tank to rest within a plastic frame, and
this frame spreads the weight to the wooden cabinet. Relatively few seem to have
the glass sitting on the foam and the foam sitting on the wood. If your tank is
inside the plastic frame at the bottom, then best not to add any foam. Check
with the manufacturer if in doubt. Good luck! Neale> |
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Leveling a 75g AGA Stand – 03/07/07
Hi,
<<Hello>>
Apologies if this been answered but I am new and perhaps not understanding
clearly.
<<Ok>>
I set up a 75-gallon AGA aquarium on a pine AGA stand. The aquarium sits flat
on the stand- can’t get a piece of paper through anywhere.
<<Good>>
The stand sits on a hardwood (2 ¼” oak) floor, perpendicular to the floor
joists, so it’s sitting across 3 or 4 joists.
<<Also good>>
This type of stand is in contact with the floor all the way around. It is level
front to back. Side to side it is not level (I’m using a 4’ carpenter
level). The right end is a smidge over 1/8” lower than the left end.
<<Mmm...as long as the tank and stand both sit flat and flush this is of little
consequence in my estimation, unless you plan to fill this tank to the rim>>
I cut a strip of pine and slid it under the right end of the stand.
<<Not good enough I’m afraid. If you shim the stand you will need to cut angled
shims long enough to support the entire bottom edge (fill the gaps)>>
The bubble is now between the lines but favoring the right line – I raised it a
smidge to high. Probably this is close enough right?
<<If you support the “entire” bottom edge, yes>>
But now the stand does not sit flush on the floor.
<<Indeed>>
I’ve seen comments about putting plywood down and then shimming between the
plywood and stand, but that would seem to create the same problem unless I shim
the gradation all along the front and back.
<<Agreed>>
Is that what I need to do?
<<If you shim at all...yes>>
Or is the 1/8+” variation not worth worrying about at all?
<<I would think this could be easily concealed by the tank trim. As previously
indicated, if the tank and stand are fully supported without any
twisting/binding and the only issue is the slight “slope” to the floor
then...tis up to you!>>
Not getting it…Thanks.
Kevin
<<Nah...you are “getting it” better than you think. EricR>>
Re: Leveling a 75g AGA Stand - 03/07/07
Thanks - you made my day! I'll live with the 1/8" slope (ok, after more
precise measurement it's 3/16" slope) and avoid the shimming nightmare...
Kevin
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>
Leveling An Oceanic 75gal Reef Tank - 02/19/07
First off I would like to thank you for the great source of information on
your website.
<<We hope you find it useful>>
You guys have answered a lot of my questions by answering other people's
questions.
<<Ahh...excellent>>
Thanks.
<<Quite welcome>>
I was able to successfully level my tank by putting a 1-inch thick piece of
aspen under the stand. (The stand is built by
Oceanic and is fit to the tank.) I then put shims between the floor and the
piece of aspen, not between the stand and the piece of aspen.
<<I see>>
(I read on your site that something stronger than plywood is better so I got the
aspen.)
<<Mmm, yes...though I find a couple sheets of 3/4" ply that have been "glued and
screwed" together are "quite" rigid>>
I found that shimming between the floor and the aspen put less pressure on the
stand.
<<This will work fine as long as the piece of Aspen is strong/rigid enough not
to flex under the weight of the filled tank and stand>>
So... here is my question. The tank is level, I can't fit even a playing card
between the bottom of the tank and the top of the stand, but the tank and stand
sway a little bit.
<<Mmm...>>
Not much, but when I push of the top of it, it will rock from side to side
slightly.
<<I would need to "see" this movement to be sure. A "very small" amount of
movement might be expected considering the weight involved and the high center
of gravity, but if the tank moves easily then I suspect you don't have the stand
adequately supported or the stand is not strong enough for this tank...or maybe
even, the floor itself requires shoring-up from below>>
Should I add shims all the way around the bottom of the aspen, or is this okay.
<<If the movement is due to gaps between the board and the floor, then use the
shims to firm it up>>
OR... do I need to fix this problem immediately.
<<...? If this is indeed a problem with the construction of the stand or gaps
in the support as mentioned then yes, it needs to be addressed now>>
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Patrick C.
<<Hope it helps, EricR>>
Re: Leveling An Oceanic 75gal Reef Tank - 02/20/07
Eric,
<<Patrick>>
Thanks for your quick reply.
<<Quite welcome>>
I was able to fix the problem by bracing the tank against the wall. <A very good
thing. RMF>
<<Excellent...I take it then that it was not a structural issue with the stand>>
There was such a minimal amount of movement that it wasn't hard to fix. Now the
tank and stand are as sturdy as they could get.
<<Good to know>>
Thanks again for your advice.
Patrick C.
<<Thank you for the follow-up. Eric Russell>>
Question about leveling.... 2/16/07
So i
<I...>
moved to a new house about a month ago, and this past weekend i brought my
75 gallon fish tank. After setting it up, and introducing fish, i noticed
it wasn't level!!!... I'm just wondering what the best thing to do is.
<Read on WWM re...>
It is only uneven in one direction, from the back to the front, with the
back water level being about 1/4" lower than the front water level (looking
at the tank from either side) is it safe to keep it like this?
<No, not IMO... too likely to fail catastrophically.>
i don't believe there is any "twist" involved, just the floor is
uneven. I can move the tank to another area, or shim it. I have a Sedona
series stand, which is on the ground all the way around except for the
most of the front (see this link:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11425&Ntt=perfecto
+sedona&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=0&Nty=1)
If i was to shim it, what kind of material should i use and how big?
<I would cut, seal and place a piece of 1/4" plywood (of harder wood if
possible) underneath the entire back (long) edge of the stand... twixt it
and the floor>
also when 'shimming', where exactly does the shim go? along the whole
base? or can it just go in the front? Thank you.
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: question about leveling.... 2/16/07
Hi again,
I just read your reply, but what you said doesn't make sense. If I put a
piece of plywood along the whole BACK edge of the stand, that would make the
problem worse. As I said the water level is lower in the back than the
front (measuring down from the top trim)....
<Oh... sorry re... I mis-read... The front needs to be raised?... Sheesh!>
so the tank is angled down from the back to the front......
<Very common... the middle of floors being lower (sagging) than the walls>
what i need to do is shim the front of the stand! I actually tried this
last night, after reading through your archives, and other websites.... I
basically put two side-by-side wood shims under the left and right side of
the front (total of 4 shims). I then put a stack of shims (alternating, so
they form an even size piece) underneath the middle-front of the tank where
the stand doesn't touch the ground for extra support.
<Again... I would support the entire stand edge...>
the tank appears to be leveled after using a carpenters level.
The bubble is in the same place on all parts of the tank.
<Good>
It's not exactly centered within the two lines, but the entire bubble does
rest within the lines....
Do you think what I did will be good enough to hold? Thanks
Dave
<Yes I do. Thank you for the clarification... I've got to drink my coffee
before reading, responding! Bob Fenner>
Leveling a Flat Bottom Oceanic 75 stand..... 7/22/05
Hello WWM crew,
First, Thank you for taking the time to read my question. I assume you read
TONS of questions and it is difficult to keep up with the answers. I have read
through your site and Googled but can't find the exact answer to my question. I
really need your help on this one before I set up further.
<Okay>
I am replacing a 55 gal tank, which is 20 years old, with a 75 gal Oceanic Tank
and Oceanic stand (49 X 19). The Oceanic stand has a solid, thick, flat bottom
which is great for dispersing the weight of the tank (across the surface
area). My question .... err hmm... problem is that the 55 gal stand did not
have a solid bottom and it was shored/shimmed to make it level (3/8 inch front
to back). If I want to level (and planer) the 75 gal also... which I do... Do
I just shim the bottom of the Oceanic stand but defeating the purpose of the
flat stand bottom OR Can I put a piece of plywood between the floor and the
stand and shim between the plywood and the stand.
<This latter route is correct>
My focus is to level the aquarium and still effectively disperse the weight
across a large surface area.
Thanks again for taking the time to answer my question,
Steve
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
Tank not level 8/9/05
Hi,
<Hello Tom>
I have a 38 gallon glass tank sitting on a commercially purchased oak
stand. The stand is on a carpeted floor. The house was built in 1992.
The tank has been in use for maybe 7 years now. Today, for some reason, I
noticed that the tank is not level. It is 36 inches wide, and the water level
appears to be 1/4 to 3/8 inches higher at on end than at the other.
<Yikes... too much>
I can't say whether it has been out of level like this for 7 years and I never
noticed, or whether it just went out of level in the last 2 weeks while I was on
vacation. If it just went out of level, the house must be settling or
something.
My question: is this bad enough that I have to fix it, or can I just watch it
carefully to be sure it doesn't get worse?
Thanks,
Tom
<If this were my glass tank I would drain it down. shim the base of the stand...
Bob Fenner>
Tank Level 8/11/05
I have a new 90 gallon oceanic and the related oceanic stand. It is
not up
and running yet. I've noticed that the tank by and large appears to
rest on
the ends of the stand - by that I mean, there appears to be about 1/16th
of
an inch gap between some of the long run of the tank and the stand. Is
this
a major issue or build concern?
<Is the gap present when the tank is filled, or just empty? If the
latter, not likely a problem>
Should I try to remedy this somehow myself,
contact oceanic, or let it be? Thoughts? Thank you.
<I would fill it and see if the tank, stand "settle"... If so, I would
not be concerned. Bob Fenner> |
Re: Tank Level 8/11/05
Just for point of reference, the gap in the front is at its maximum (and
not
the entire length) the width of 7 stacked standard sheets of 8 ½ by 11 ½
paper. Five stacked will run about 70% of the width of the front. Two
stacked will run about 70% of the width of the back. No paper will
penetrate between the tank and the stand on then width ends of the tank
or
toward the last 6 inches or so on the front and back long sides. Does
that
all makes sense?
<Yes>
Major issues? Couldn’t I just add minute shims along the
long runs of the tank to eliminate the gaps?
<Mmm, no... better to insert a layer of "foam" twixt the entire area
that meets the stand for small gaps... and if shimming, to shim the
stand itself... Bob Fenner>
Thank you. |
Re: Tank Level 8/11/05
I'll give it a fresh water fill to see what the result is. Frankly, I
would
never have spotted this issue but for the fact that I fired up my light
on
top of the tank (for grins) and noticed a little sliver of light between
the
tank and stand in front.
<Ahh>
Honestly, would any ordinary person have checked
to see if all points of a tank were in complete contact with a stand
other
than with a casual eyeballing?
<Mmm, don't know... but I would, and am exceedingly ordinary>
This particular issue never would have
crossed my mind inasmuch as when you buy a tank and its purposefully
designed stand you assume, as a consumer, that the two will be
compatible
and issue free, without more.
Thanks for your time. I appreciate your website.
<Welcome... most commercial wood stands are pine... soft, giving to a
degree... much more often real trouble are the floors that stands, tanks
are set on... these are more and more often... off! Neither level nor
planar... Cheers, Bob Fenner> |
Re: Tank Level 8/13/05
Bob - I thought you might like to hear the response of Oceanic:
"Hello and good day to you! When purchasing a new tank and stand set up,
most people don't know that there will be a small gap between the tank and
stand. There is no reason for concern, when placing all the decorations and
water in your tank, it take's a little while for it to settle in and level
out. I hope this put some ease to your mind. Thanks!"
We shall soon test the veracity of this assertion.
<Indeed... thank you for sending this along. BobF>
|
Re: Tank Level 8/15/05
Bob - I hate to continue to pester you with this matter, but I feel like I'm
at a point where I can't make a decision one way or another in terms of
moving forward with confidence, and it helps to hear from an impartial
person. I'm not sure I have complete faith in Oceanic's comments (though
they are seemingly somewhat true, and perhaps can only be borne out by a
complete filling of the tank, together with salt, sand and rock - see
below). Also, I don't see (or understand) what good foam would really do
for me here, if at all (discussed below).
Today, I filled the tank up about 90% of the way with fresh water (i.e.,
about 2-3 inches below the top overflow teeth). Indeed, the tank did settle
down a fair amount. You'll recall, my largest gaps in the long runs of the
tank at any one point were about 7 compressed pieces of paper in width.
<Yes>
Filled as noted above, the following is where I stand today:
Front Run - There exists 2 spots at 6 inches in length where two compressed
"test strips" of paper will slide through. At those same general locations,
only now expanded to 9 inches in width, one piece of paper will fit through
and slide back and forth. So, indeed an improvement. Still, I guess using
crude math/testing, about 37% of the front run is not in contact with the
stand (it does touch in the middle of the front run).
As for the tank back:
In the middle section only, there is a 28 inch run where paper one sheet in
width will slide through. 22 inches of that same run will permit paper 2
sheets in width to penetrate and slide back and forth. Finally, of that
same run, 19 inches will permit 3 sheets of paper to penetrate between tank
and stand. Paper pieces four pages in width will not go through anywhere in
back. As such, it seems worse in back, though again, better than prior to the
water being added.
First of all, would you take some other corrective action if this were your
tank in your living room, or would you proceed under Oceanic's advice to not
be concerned and believe it will settle correctly over time with water and
"decorations" - taken to mean I guess sand, rock, etc.?
<Probably not... unless the floor the stand is sitting on is not strong, level
and planar, I strongly suspect the tank will indeed "settle in" in a few
weeks...>
Based on the above,
I'm guessing some more settling will occur with it being full with water
and, perhaps more importantly, with rock and sand added.
<Ah, yes>
Will it be enough to ensure full contact of tank and stand?
<Very likely so>
Who knows I guess. It somewhat disturbs me that I have to fret over an issue
like this given the tank and
its designed for stand were manufactured by a presumably decent company.
<Better to be concerned... avoid trouble, then not>
Interestingly, at one local LFS, I did note that gaps between tanks and
stands doesn't appear to be particularly uncommon (as noted by Oceanic) as I ran
across a couple other Oceanics with similar issues.
<Correct... I have seen glass and acrylic tanks sort of suspended from corners,
just parts of the stands under them... around the world>
If you wouldn't feel comfortable proceeding as is, would your solution for
your living room involve using foam of some sort between tank and stand?
<Mmm, not at this point... the foam can help with such small gaps as you have,
sudden jarring in areas like S. Cal. where the ground shakes...>
If so, what depth of foam? Type?
<Mmm, closed cell... white... from HD...>
Lastly, how will foam really help, particularly here?
<I don't think so... not necessary in your circumstances>
I'm guess you might say that the foam will tend to
normalize irregularities (not sure there are any) and perhaps spread the
tank weight out more evenly. However, as to the latter, I don't see how
that is truly possible If a tank and stand are not planar and most of the
weight is on the ends, even with foam it will remain so, will it not, as
where the weight is the foam will simply be crushed down more so you've
really gained nothing - the weight remains set on the ends? Yes? No?
<Mostly yes... though, as a mental exercise, imagine the effect of adding layers
of foam... at some point the force is more distributed>
General thoughts? Perhaps this whole issue is generating undue concern on
my part, but it remains frustrating and isn't leaving me with a good
impression of Oceanic. Being an attorney, perhaps I should review Oklahoma
law to see if the implied warranty of merchantability (here, fitness for a
particular purpose - i.e., that the tank and stand can in fact keep 90
gallons of saltwater off the floor) can be disclaimed....I doubt seriously
that Oceanic would swap tanks until the original is shown to fail - an
unacceptable situation, particularly where the only recourse may be a new tank.
Thanks Bob.
Cheers,
Jon
<Most glass tanks fail (catastrophically) due to sudden changes in torsional
force (a physical jarring usually) rather than constant "semi-unevenness" on a
stand/support. In the vast majority of cases I would not be concerned with a
situation as yours... more likely to have troubles with errant baseballs, etc...
Bob Fenner>
|
55 gallon leveling 11/24/05
Hey there,
I was wondering about how I should go about leveling my 55 gallon aquarium,
the stand is already leveled, but the center of the tank sits about 1/8th of
an inch high,
<Mmm, too much...>
leaving a gap my drivers license can slide into, I was
wondering if I could use carpet padding to put under the tank to support it?
Would this be a good idea?
Thanks,
Jerome
<Is a good idea. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the Related FAQs linked above. Bob Fenner>
55 gallon leveling - II - 11/25/2005
Hi Bob,
<Actually, Sabrina here, in his stead, as he's out for a while.>
So do you think the carpet padding would be enough to stick between the tank and
the tank stand, or do you think I should go with Styrofoam?
<I would go with the Styrofoam.>
If I am to go with Styrofoam, what thickness would you recommend me getting?
Thinnest I can seem to find at a reasonable price is 1/2".
<This would be fine.>
Thanks, Jerome
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Set Up/Level Tank 3/15/06
I just checked how level my tank is since I first set it up almost three
months ago. The bubble (on my level) is slightly outside the line. The
measurement from the base of the glass tank (Not the stand) to the wall is 3
5/16" at the top it is a little more than 3". So in other words the top of the
tank is a little more than a quarter of an inch closer to the wall than the
base.
The tank has been there since the last week in December. It is on carpet which
is on a first floor concrete slab. Given the task of re-leveling an
established 1000 pound (90 gal rectangle. + rock + sand) tank what would be
considered excessive and require the breakdown and re-leveling? <Not bad enough
to mess with. Now if 1/4 of the bubble were outside the line I'd re-level the
tank. More important that there is no twisting of the tank.>
As always thanks for the help. <James (Salty Dog)>
Diver
Tank on the level? 03-21-06
Hi. I have owned a fish tank for over 7 years now, and about a year ago I
moved it to my room. I was looking at the tank and realized I never checked to
see if it was level. Now that I look at it the left side of the tank, [I can
see] the water is a little bit higher. Is this a problem? It's been in my room
like this for a year.
<Hello. Short answer: It depends on the size of the tank you're talking about,
and the size of the differential. I haven't seen a longer tank yet that was
perfectly level (the floors were not level. As long as it is on a planar
surface, I would not be inclined to worry about it too much.
By the way, just a friendly reminder to please take the time to check your
English before sending off the e-mail so we don't have to. Best regards, John.>
Please help
PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew
Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! -
03/22/2006
I have a tank in my bedroom. It's been in my room for a year, and I just
noticed that it is unlevel.
<Are you sure? You wrote in about this same situation just the other day. It
was on the Daily's also.>
On the left side of my tank the water level is about a half of a centimeter
higher than the right side.
<As you've explained already.>
I was told that it is ok if your tank isn't perfect.
<Ah, yes! I remember the crew member explaining why he stated so as well.>
Is that true and will the water put to much pressure on the left side of my
tank?
<Yes! 'Tis true to a certain extent. Depends much on, as you were told, how
"off" it is, being set on a planar surface, Etc. You are fine. Please except
the answers you get from our Crew. You've written in at least six times this
week, with only three questions (possibly two). Every response you've gotten
has confirmed the previous response. The only other thing that hasn't
changed? You still don't correct your grammar, spelling, capitalization! We
don't have the time for this. We HAVE TO correct these as we answer them for
posting/archiving so others can read/understand the discussion. If you wish
to send me yet another "hate mail" over this response (yes I saw your last)
then so be it. What ever it takes, please stop abusing the valuable resource
that is Wet Web Media and it's Crew.>
Oh yeah, it is on a stand made for aquariums.
<Well...at least it's not made for potato chips.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QueryCorrsRefPg.htm - Josh>
Re: PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew
Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! -
03/23/2006
Ok, I <I> am sorry. What is a planar surface?
<Simply a surface with zero curvature. You don't want to place your tank on a
wavy surface.>
And im <I'm> not trying to be mean but where do you guys get your facts from?
<Facts about? Do you mean, are we making this stuff up or did we actually learn
it somewhere? - Josh> <<What a day! RMF>> Re:
PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew
Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! -
03/24/2006
Yeah, did you guys learn this somewhere?
<?>
Oh, My stand is flat, but at the very ends of the stand it curves instead of
being straight down.
<You mean like rounded edges? You don't want any gaps between the bottom
edge of your tank and the top surface of your stand.>
Should I <ARRGH!! That's it, I've just ripped all of my hair out!>worry?
<No.>
I mean this stand is meant for a fish tank.
<Good plan. - Josh>
Best support for 60 gal window tank... as "in" place of the window!
4/16/06
My name is Don I recently built a 55-60 gal tank with 1/2" glass. The
dimensions are 9 1/2 deep X 37 wide X 38 height.
<Wow... hope you have long arms Don>
It will be placed on a 1 x 10 x 37 pine board that sits on top of a masonry
wall.
<I'd put a thin piece of foam twixt this tank and the pine...>
This opening used to be a window that was removed to provide an opening
between two rooms. For the most part, the board is level ....but one corner is
not.....without the tank in it I can see about 1/8 inch drop.
<... I'd level this out for sure... with masonry>
I guess my question is, besides Styrofoam, which I do not think will solve my
leveling problem what other type of compressible material could I use for this
application??
<Yes... perhaps an epoxy-based repair... this is too much gap>
I'm not sure yet how much it's going to weigh with everything in it. ( Gravel
and other things. )
<Count on about ten pounds per gallon total>
The other question is should I build a flat steel plate frame and shim it with
something like automotive Bondo that's not compressible and then use 1/2 inch
or thicker Styrofoam to separate the glass from the metal ?
<This is one approach, yes>
The top edges on both sides of the wall will have supports so no one can
accidentally push the tank out of the opening, once it is level...
thank you for your input
Don
<Mmm, what else to mention... This tank is going to be a proverbial "bear" to
keep clean... and thermally stable... with exposure to the elements, sun... It
may well be that you'll want to make this container into something other than an
aquarium here. Bob Fenner>
New 125 not level - 4/11/2006
Ok ive
done a search but Im
still unsure what to do here. I just finished putting up my new 125 gallon
transferring corals fish rock from my old 55. Got it full and realized I am a
little over 1/4 inch off level from left to right.
front to back is ok. I did shim a little on the front right but still not good.
So how serious of a problem is this?
<Could be real trouble>
should I address immediately or am I ok for a while to see if it settles some?
Should I completely drain or am I ok. Not sure what to do and how soon?
<If it were me/mine, I'd empty, re-level and use a bit of support material as
detailed on WWM. Fix your English before mailing us please. Bob Fenner>
180 AGA with twin overflows question - 05/19/2006
Hello WWM Crew,
Love your site. Your FAQs are always the first place I look when I have
aquarium questions, and I couldn't seem to find the answer to the issue I am
facing with my brand new 180gal (6'x2'x2') AGA with twin Mega-Flow overflows and
an AGA Model 4 Sump.
The tank is built into the wall in my basement, on a DIY stand made from 4x4s,
2x4s, plywood, and carriage bolts. The concrete basement floor is not level,
but I purchased a 4' carpenter's level to help me with properly leveling the
aquarium. I spent the better part of an afternoon leveling, filling, draining,
shimming, and re-leveling the aquarium until I've reached the point where I am
satisfied that the tank is level. The bubble is inside the lines no matter
where I place the carpenter's level on top of the aquarium.
Here comes my problem, I fill the tank up and the water spills over the overflow
boxes, but the left overflow box seems to fill up faster than the right overflow
box. Does this mean that my tank is still not level? It took the right
overflow box almost another full minute to fill to the point where the water
drained down the Durso standpipe into the sump.
Could this be an issue with the way my tank was manufactured, as in maybe one
overflow box was off by a few MMs when it was assembled/siliconed? Or is it more
likely that my tank is still not "perfectly" level? Is this something that I
should be concerned about? Will this reduce my flow significantly out of the
right overflow box into the sump?
Any thoughts you may have are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
<<Dave: I have the same tank on a stand. While I don't have stand pipes, my
overflows seem to drain about the same. It could also be the height of the
teeth at the top is different or the number of teeth on one side versus the
other. If you are convinced that your tank is level (you might want a second
opinion from someone else to make sure), then everything will probably be
OK. Another test of whether it is level or not might be performed by measuring
the height of the water to the top of the tank with a ruler around various
points. If it's the same, you're probably level. Best of luck, Roy>>
180 Starfire Oceanic with 1/4" higher corner
- 05/13/2006
Dear Crew:
<Tim>
Wow! What an impressive collection of knowledge you provide! Thank you. I have
been reading for weeks, and although I have searched and read, and read further,
I have some specific questions I am not 100% sure of. I may be re-iterating that
which has been answered often before. If so, your kindness once more, please!
<Hotay!>
My major concerns are about leveling the tank (see below), but here are the
data of what we have running:
We are 1/2-year freshwater enthusiasts, progressing from 20g to 55g to now 180g
freshwater. Your website has helped us so much! Thanks. The latest (and perhaps
last for a while) tank has cycled and we are nearing adding a dozen
angelfish. We have 6 Bolivian rams, a Kribensis female, a Venezuelan (German)
ram, 9 head/tail-light tetras (nobody eats them!), and 9 red wag platys. They
love their tank, and are displaying great colors. For lighting we have 2x 24"
Aqualights (temporary), 3x 450W MHs (was intended as a saltwater by prior owner,
look beautiful when we are home in the evening, great shimmer effect, we run 1
or 2 at night for 2-3 hours), 1x 160W VHO AquaLight 10k and 160W actinic (not
yet wired).
<I'd switch this lamp out for more "white">
Water temp rests at 80-81 degrees. Water acidified to 6.8pH (local is 7.6),
nitrate 10ppm, nitrite 0.25ppm, ammonia 0.125ppm,
<Mmm, these last two... should be zip>
hardness 80. Below tank is 30 gallon sump with bio-balls, 1200gph (soon to be
3600gph) pump; substrate is slate, various types of washed gravel, small area of
sand, numerous sword plants, some others. Fish generally very excited about
life, eat tropical crisps, live blackworms, mini cichlid granules for the rams,
and occasional veggies. Canopy is 14" tall (yes, a beauty, we love it). Tank
stand is standard 32" tall. Not totally Amazon biotype, but general idea is
there.
The tank seller is a LFS-store owner, who never set up his dream marine tank,
and sold it to us. Starfire 3 sides, high-grade ballast for MHs, all appears in
a great shape. Never had water before. It has been water-filled for 3 weeks now.
He came and plumbed it, and set it up. He is still helping, but I have concerns
about some of the advice. The tank (72"x24"x24") sits on an Oceanic 180g oak
stand, on 18" size tile floor which is generally planar and level, however the
front left corner of the tank is 1/4" lower water level than the other three
corners (so, its 1/4" higher on the tile, correct? yikes?).
<Yes, yikes>
He made little deal of this and suggested shims from HD.
<Needs to be done... stat! Drain this tank down...>
After reading your wonderful resources, I see that shimming while full is
foolish, and we need to empty. The Oceanic stand has continuous contact with
the floor. The tank appears to have fabulous contact with the stand (I don't see
where I could place a drivers license or pieces of paper between tank and
stand). For that matter, cannot place paper between stand and floor, yet the
water level is clearly off by 1/4" at front left corner.
It seems this is not a good place to leave it. Placing a spirit-level on canopy,
tank side, stand and floor yield similar results, about 1/8 of the bubble is out
of the square. The rise from left-back to left-front side is 1/4" over 24" from
right front to left front rise is also 1/4" (of course). Silicone appears okay,
minimal bubbling anywhere, definitely no bowing (of course glass is extra thick
because of starfire grade).
<... yes... this laminate, like all glass is a super-cooled liquid, not really a
"solid"... can/is "giving" a bit here, along with the Silastic sealant... but
not a good gamble>
Here is my plan (please critique and correct):
1. remove canopy, drain 140-150 gallons into temporary Rubbermaid containers
nearby, lights off to save the plants, 30gallons remain in tank with gravel
2. perhaps move rams into temporary 10g (new) tank with the same water, Neons
into another 10g and platys into another 10g (we can get new ones for $8 each,
seems cheap investment)
<I'd remove some of the rock perhaps, but not the fishes... too stressful,
unnecessary>
3. remove some of the slate and larger rock (we could clean the algae bloom off
at the same time by boiling the rock)
<I wouldn't boil...>
4. shim right front corner approx 1/8", check level and planar (if it is, fill
in every 4-6 inches with shims that do not change level or planar status)
5. shim left rear and right rear corners the same, reinforce every 6 inches,
check level and planar all around
6. this leaves the rear ground-contact of the stand unsupported, but may be hard
to shim because close to wall. Struggle on and shim it, ignore it, or should we
rather be thinking of moving the entire stand and tank, placing foam or plywood
on the tile (please say no to this), then stand on top of that, then tank on top
of that, then refill to 20-40 gallons, and recheck level and planar (possibly
shim again)
<Not necessary to add the padding>
7. add more water back, check level and planar
8. add fish
9. top off to allow water circulation to resume, plug in pumps etc
From what I have read the 1/4" higher at front corner is potentially very bad,
but may be reasonably remedied with the shims.
<Yes>
I wish 1 corner was 1/4" lower, then only a few shims. The way it is, we will
have to shim 3 sides (really should be 4). Going back to the LFS guy, he was
not too worried because it is a solid bottom stand.
I want to correct the problem soon, but am hesitant to rush in and make it
worse, and really regret. We have adequate Rubbermaid containers to safely
store 150gallons water temporarily, and I have external PVC inventions to both
drain and restore the water level.
We also have established 3x10g, 1x20g and 1x55g tanks, but the pH is nearer to
7.0 in each.
Sorry if this is overbearing detail, but wanted to provide enough for you to
answer. We love this tank, I want to make sure we do a very good job. My
significant other thinks I am way too engrossed in the whole thing, and just
wants to get the angels in there (now that the tank is cycled).
Thanks so much! Eagerly awaiting your thoughts.
Best,
Tim in Florida.
<Thank you for writing so thoroughly, clearly. Good luck, life with this
project. Bob Fenner>
Set-Up/Tank Leveling 4/25/06
Jon from NB Canada <James from Michigan>
Hi, I would like to say your site is great. <We thank you.>
I have a 55 gal tank with a homemade stand, it has 2x4's on all 4 sides top and
bottom. My question is first on water level. Right know I have a difference of
1/16 of an inch at one corner. Is this acceptable? <Yes.> Second you suggest
foam for between the tank and stand to take up imperfections. I don't have foam
but was wondering if a thick blanket would work. probably about 1/2 inch thick.
<Styrofoam works well and is cheap. Don't like the blanket idea.>
Thanks for the help
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jon
Big Tank Not Level On Stand - 08/26/2006
Hi there, I realize there are quite a few questions very similar to mine,
but my problem is slightly different. I have a 180 gallon tank that measures
6x2x2, I believe it is the standard size. My tank sits on a metal stand, both
were purchased special order from a very reputable independent store in my city.
The tank however does not sit perfect on the stand. The front right corner, and
the rear left corner, do not rest on the tank stand, and I can see about a 1mm
gap. So it's like the bottom plate of glass is slightly twisted.
The tank is completely empty at the moment. Some places I have read suggest
filling it, and the tank will "settle" and be fine. Others say to shim, some say
to put Styrofoam, and some say a wooden board underneath the tank. Some places
even say don't do one of the other things. What would be the best thing to do?
The tank itself, stand, and floor are all level entirely within the lines at all
ends. Thanks in advance!
< Notify the store owner or manager where you bought the tank and let them know
what is happening. Get recommendations from him and ask him about the guarantee
against breakage and leaks. If he says it is OK then place the stand and tank up
in your driveway, outdoor patio etc, just on a competent flat surface and fill
it up. I an guessing than the weight of the water on the tank will settle on the
stand and things will flatten out. If no problems are observed and the tank has
flattened out the stand then you should be Allright. If anything does break or
leak then it will happen outdoors and not in your living room. Check the floor
in you house and make sure it can handle the additional weight. A 180 gallon
tank will weight close to 1800 lbs after it is set up.-Chuck>
Aquarium Leveling 8/16/06
Dear WWM Crew,
Hello and thank you for taking the time to read this message. I have a
problem and would greatly appreciate your advice on the matter.
I recently finished the construction of a DIY aquarium stand for a 30 gallon
aquarium. I was overall pleased with the stand's stability and looks. The
design has (4) 2x4s as legs and are secured perpendicularly by 2x4 frames at the
top and bottom of the legs. The top and the bottom both have 3/4 inch plywood
panels that cover the frames. I brought it into the house and placed it in the
intended spot. I leveled it using a carpenter's level and a few shims. (My
basement floor is not exactly even.) After that I placed the aquarium on top of
the stand and noticed that the aquarium could "rock". The best way to explain
it is that when you press down on the rear right corner of the aquarium the
front left corner lifts off the stand a rough 4 mm and vice versa.
<Yikes... yes, the floor is "strong enough" to show it level w/o the added
weight on it...>
If you hold down one corner of the aquarium and measure the gap on the other
side it comes out at about a 4 mm gap that spans 29" along the
aquarium. I think that the top plywood panel is bowed upwards in the middle
and is causing the problem.
<Mmm, not likely... if attached (nailed or screwed) about "right", every six
inches or so along the top of the two by's... would be planar, flat...>
I have read in related questions that others having a seemingly similar problem
have utilized a Styrofoam pad between the aquarium and the stand. Is my problem
too severe for this solution?
<Not really... best to put an equivalent weight on the stand, level it then...>
Obviously shimming one edge of the aquarium wouldn't work. I haven't attempted
to fill the aquarium or plan on doing so until I have solved the problem.
<Thank goodness>
If you think the foam would work please also suggest a thickness. Or if you
have any other ideas please do not hesitate to voice them.
Thank you for your time,
Andrew
<Weights... perhaps thick books... and shimming the stand. Bob Fenner>
New Setup Out of Level - 12/06/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I'm new to your site and I'm glad I found it.
<<Me too!>>
It's a fantastic site.
<<Thank you...a collective effort>>
But I couldn't find an answer to my specific problem.
<<Ok>>
I just got a new 55 gallon aquarium and of course it was out of level, but left
to right.
<<Mmm...have you determined if it is the tank or the stand? Or maybe your
floor?>>
I got it level using a 1x2 under the right side of the stand.
<<That is a "lot" of adjustment...if the problem is not your floor being out of
level (often the case); I would seriously consider returning this setup>>
I'm assuming I should put support in the gap between the stand and the floor.
<<If you go further with this setup yes, you will need to provide support under
the entire length of the stand>>
If this is right, what do I need to use? Would shims be okay?
<<If you have the means (or know someone with a table saw/woodworking skills), a
piece of wood as long as the gap and "ripped" to the proper angle would be
best...otherwise...bridging the gap with shims could work. You will need to
place the shims in pairs facing one another and "push them together" until the
gap is filled. But I must state, with as much deflection as you describe I
would rather see you try to get the setup replaced rather than trying to "shim"
such a large gap>>
And front to back, it's about a 1/16th out. According to your FAQs, this should
be okay, correct?
<<I would make the stand as level as possible in both directions>>
Also, the stand is higher in the middle, about a playing card or two.
<<This amount of deflection should be of small consequence...an acrylic tank
will flex slightly to adjust...a glass tank will likely not even touch depending
on the thickness of the bottom "surround">>
(My wallet is upstairs and my wife is asleep and I don't want to wake her to get
my drivers lic.).
<<...?>>
Will this settle when the tank is filled? Or should I use the Styrofoam?
<<I always prefer to use foam under my tanks>>
If I do need to use the foam, how do I do it?
<<For glass tanks, I use a piece sized to and just thick enough to fill the air
space under the tank when it sits on the stand...for acrylic tanks I use a piece
of 1/4" foam sized to the outside bottom dimension of the tank>>
Thank you so much for your time and your dedication to helping us novices.
Thanks,
Jeff Gerhart
Houston, PA
<<A pleasure to share. Eric Russell...Columbia, SC>>>>
Re: New Setup Out of Level - 12/06/06
I forgot to mention I bought the stand when I bought the aquarium. I don't
know if this matters to you or not.
<<All the more reason to "take it back" for replacement>>
Thanks again,
Jeff Gerhart
Houston, PA
<<Regards, EricR>>
R2: New Setup Out of Level - 12/06/06
It's not the stand or the tank, it's the floor. Mickey Mouse and Goofy
built the house and there isn't a level spot in it....it's fun to try and
drywall.
<<Ayeyiyi...3/4" drop in a four-foot span!...must feel like you're rolling down
hill *grin*. Good luck leveling the tank...do make sure whatever you use is
stable and supports the entire base of the stand. EricR>>
Leveling tank 12/26/06
<Greetings! Mich here.>
I recently purchased a 240 gallon tank with stand I notice the tank is ¼ in off
to one side the tank sits on carpet so do I level the tank before adding water?
<I think this would be wise.>
This tank is very difficult to move and I know the tank will settle but how
much?
<Depending on your setup, you may want to consider putting a sheet of solid
insulation between the tank and the stand. This will assist with leveling your
setup. Hope this helps. -Mich>
Re: leveling tank 12/27/06
<Hello Lee, Mich with you again.>
Thank you very much for your reply the only problem I have is that the type
stand I have (wood) has a lip that goes around the tank making it difficult to
put insulation in between could I put something between the stand and carpet to
make sure I have no weak spots when I adjust the 1/4 inch on the one side ?
<Is a viable option. Still may want to consider a very thin piece of rigid
insulation in between the tank and the stand. It is very easy to cut this type
of insulation to the correct size, (usually has aluminum foil on both sides) but
you may want to get the thinnest you can find. Whatever you decide works best
for you, it is important that everything is as level as possible and the weight
is evenly distributed.>
Thank you very much for your advice
<You are very welcome. Good luck! -Mich>
Lee
Tank Stand
Help Me Crew!
I built my own stand for a 120g tank (60x18x24) some months ago. I
was not ready for the tank at that time, so I had a 46 gallon bowfront on it up
until last week when I bought the 120g for my pair of Oscars.
Well I have the tank on the stand, added the substrate, and excitedly am ready
to fill when I notice that in the front only a foot on each end of the tank is
solidly making contact with the top of the stand. I can slip a piece
of paper easily underneath everywhere else. The back, however, seems
to be touching except in a few spots. All four corners are
solid.
<Oh oh>
The top of the stand was pieced together with leftover plywood (all cut from the
same sheet) and I have done this several times on other stands without
issue. Is this really dangerous to fill the tank as
is? What are your best recommendations?
<My only recommendation is to carefully empty the tank and insert something
that will make all edges of the tank touch the stand equally. If the gap is
small, perhaps inserting some closed cell Styrofoam sheet will do (available at
Lowe's, Home Depot...). Leaving it as is, particularly if a glass tank, is
asking for trouble... it may split a seam. Bob Fenner>
Thanks as usual, Ryan AchenbachTank and stand
I have a 29 gallon wide tank that has been set up for about 2 years, and
right after I first set the tank up I noticed a gap in between the center of the
lengthwise section where the tank and stand meet. It's been in the back of my
mind for a while and was wondering if I should do something about it.
<I would... take the tank down (as in empty it as if you were moving...
please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm) and repair the stand
(straighten it), and/or place material (like a cut sheet of plywood) under the
entire bottom (edge) such that it is all coming in contact in the same way.
Please read here re stands: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm
It's not uncommon for tanks in your situation to "crack" w/o any
(further) apparent cause. Bob Fenner>
Aquarium unstable - please
advise
Hello All
<Hi Barry>
Thank you for taking the time to assist this newbie. I have read all your
articles, but still cant find the answer to my problem.
Been running tank(91x32x34) for 3 weeks, haven't started adding fish to my
tropical tank yet.
I've got a problem with vibrations from the traffic of people walking in
the room causing water level movement.
I have been told that it wont be too much of a problem for the fish
(except that they may start hiding in the rockwork)
but I am concerned about the stress to the glass from the weight of the
shifting water.
The floor consists of wooden floorboards. I include pictures.
<Yikes... very VERY dangerous situation!>
I tried putting a piece of wood under the stand and tried putting in
another position in the same room, but that never helped.
The current spot is great for viewing. I am considering getting a metal
shelf manufactured or alternatively anchoring the stand to the wall,
but don't know where to start.
<I do. Drain this tank down... NOW, and nail or better screw a set of
boards (likely one by's will do) around the base (outside) the tank stand
(yes, into the floor)...
AND shim up the legs/base of the stand to make sure it is level and
planar. Please see here on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm>
What would you recommend to stabilize the tank and how do I go about doing
it?
I want a community tank, but I'm not sure which fish to get. Can you
suggest non aggressive, active & a colorful mix of fish?
thought of getting cardinal tetra. neon tetra. clown loach. platy. swordtail. clownfish
does it make a difference if I get them all at once or should I get any
specific hardy ones first to get the cycle started.
already added Nutrafin cycle + aqua plus tap conditioner. Ph level is +-
6.5 at the moment. Any other advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you soo much, I appreciate the help.
Barry
<No worries, concerns about what you want to place in this system, BUT
real trouble with the tank as it is now... it could BURST and cause real
damage, injury. Please do drain it down NOW and effect the repairs listed.
Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Tank out of level, again
Howdy,
<Hi there>
I've got a 38-gallon All-Glass marine tank that was purchased about 4
months ago to replace a 30-gallon that had a seam let go (luckily I arrived
home apparently seconds after it happened and didn't lose a single
critter). Inspection revealed that the tank, although level when it
had
been set up, had slowly gone out of level (it's on a carpeted floor with a
thick pad underneath the carpet). I suspect this, combined with the
fact
that the tank was about 20 years old, was it's downfall.
When I set up my 38 I was really super-paranoid about getting it level,
and it was right on the dot. Recently I've noticed that it no longer
is.
<Oh oh>
It's not way way off yet, but I'm concerned after what happened
before. Anyone have any ideas (or experience) on how to level afully-stocked tank? I don't want to have to break it all down
again! I
can drop the water level maybe by half for the process, it's actually
holding about 26 - 27 gallons of water after the live rock and such is
figured in. Thanks for any advice you can give!
-Mike Gorman
<Please do take the time to empty the tank... this is the ONLY safe way to go
about re-leveling it. Also, am curious as to what caused it to "go out of
level"... If the cause is floor settling of some sort, I encourage you to
place a thick enough (3/4" or more likely) piece of plywood under all feet
of the stand/support to spread out the force/mass and shim this support in turn.
Bob Fenner>
- Leveling the Tank -
Hi,
this is Mohammed again, and I am having a small problem with the tank not
sitting level right now. I tried asking the question on the forum and took
advice from many people and heard all sides of the story but I am still not convinced
on which way to go!
My stand is an "E" shape, i.e.. it has 3 parallel legs with the front of
the tank sitting perpendicular to the three legs. My 80gal tank sits on the
stand and there is a twist in the tank! the water level is 1/2" off on the
back right side and 1/4" off on the front right side.
I was given the advise of shimming the stand, and I did go and buy the shims,
but they look very weak to me and I don't think they will hold ~1000lbs. So I
would rather not do this if there is an easier and safer way to go. <In my
opinion, this is the easiest and safest way to go... I've done this myself with
a 180g tank and it works just fine. The weight is not such an issue.>
I was also given the advice of using Styrofoam between the tank and the stand by
many people, however the physics behind that does not make sense to me (even
though it is the way I want to go because it is the cleanest and safest). Is it
true that this works? <I've never tried this as a self-leveler, and I'm not
convinced it would work. If the stand is not level, then the Styrofoam won't be
level either... leaving us with a tank that's not level.> If there is a
heavier side, and I put Styrofoam, wouldn't that same side sink/dip even more?
<Is in line with what I'm thinking.>
Please help me because I am a bit confused. <Use the shims, it will work and
be plenty safe.>
thanks
Mohammed.
<Cheers, J -- >
Fun With Foam...
Hello WWM crew and Happy Friday!
<Hey there! Scott F. with you on Saturday (better late than never, I
guess)!>
I am about to setup and fill with water my new 75 gallon AGA black
plastic framed tank. I wanted to add Styrofoam under the tank to help
buffer any inconsistencies, while the stand appears to be plane and level, I am
worried that even a slight inconsistency would eventually spell disaster. Is
this presumption correct?
<It's a good premise to operate on. On the other hand, I think that you need
not be overly concerned, if you are using a very thin layer of foam. Being soft
material, it should conform to the weight of the tank and contents. However, do
check with the tank manufacturer, just to be sure!>
I bought pink construction Styrofoam sheets at my local HD, and my
question is where does the Styrofoam go? Clearly between the tank and
the stand, but do I cut the foam so that it is flush with the black plastic
frame? Or do I cut so that the black plastic frame hangs over the
foam, and the foam rests directly on the bottom glass?
<That's what I would do, then you can trim the excess foam>
I have cut it so that it is flush with the frame (so that the foam is exactly
the same footprint of the tank, not a mm more), but I am not quite sure if this
is right I appreciate your help here, as I am about to set this up and do not
want a flood. James
<Agreed. If I were to do this, I'd certainly do it the way that you did it.
Again, just to be sure- check with the manufacturer>
Well, James- I think that about covers this! (No pun intended)
How to level my tank.
Hey all!
<Hello>
Just set up a 55 gallon freshwater tank. was keen to get going and I have
realized that the tank is not level. WAY not level. I've
been sitting
with it for a while but it has to be fixed pronto. The tank is
sitting
on a 1" piece of Styrofoam, but should I level the tank stand or can I
level the tank with shims between the Styrofoam and the tank stand.
Either way I have to drain the beast.
<Mmm, first need to know the origin of the lack of level... is it the floor?
The stand? Start from the bottom up... and level and make planar the entire
floor and possibly (if it is not the root cause) the stand itself... don't rely
on a piece of foam to even any unleveled surface. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your input.
George Meldrum
<Drain the tank... and level "all the floor" with one piece of wood
under all legs... this can be shimmed between it and the floor.>
- Leveling An Aquarium Stand and More! -
Hello,
<Hello to you, JasonC here...>
4 questions (for the price of 1. Thanks for the patience from someone
returning to the hobby.)
Question 1:
First, let me say I am very impressed with the web site. The amount
of information is staggering. But, I can't find any info explaining
how to level a tank and stand. <There will be after today!> I have a 125
gallon glass tank (72lx18wx23h) that will be setting on an oak stand. The stand
will set on ceramic tile. I am pretty certain the stand will not set
completely flat on the tile, as most tile floors are not completely flat. The
stand will be custom made by a local stand maker (I want a 31" opening for
sump access.) It's not an open stand with 4 corner
posts. The support will come from the walls of the stand which will
be made from oak plywood. Therefore, there are long edges that need
to be supported by the floor. <Yeah... do this, obtain some shim-wood from
the hardware store - this stuff is typically used for shims in doorways and
windows during construction and remodeling. Then, put the tank on the stand in
the intended location [don't forget to space away from the wall] and then put
enough water in to cover the bottom, and raise the level just above the bottom
frame of the tank - this will be your level. Then, find the low point and begin
sliding in the shims, tapping into place lightly with a hammer. Work your way
around the tank making sure to fill any spaces between the stand and the floor.
Also make certain that you don't put the shims in so tight that you end up
making the low corner into the high corner. Chances are good that you won't get
it the first time, but be patient and you will be rewarded with a level tank -
once your work is complete, use a utility knife with a sharp blade to trim the
shims flush with the cabinet.>
Question 2:
My setup will be the 125 gallon FOWLR tank with a 1/2" to 1" fine sand
bed and a 65 gallon refugium. The refugium will have a DSB with
critters, LR and macro-algae. My question is: In what
order to I introduce the following items:
a) Live rock into fish and refugium tanks
b) Macro-algae into the refugium
c) critters into the refugium
d) Fish into the fish tank
e) bottom-cleaners into the fish tank (stars, etc.) <In this order: A - B - C
- E - D >
Question 3:
This may seem to be a simple question, but again I have not seen an answer.
<No worries.> If the refugium contains macroalgae and sand-dwelling
critters (amphipods, copepods, worms, etc.) does this tank need to be fed?
<It won't hurt at the onset, especially if you're not feeding fish at the
time.> If I add shrimp I know they would need to be fed, but what about the
sand dwellers? <They all need some food - be very stingy with the food.>
Question 4:
My son would like a 29 gallon FW tank in his room (30lx12w), but the carpet in
his room is plush. I'm trying to determine how to place the tank in the room
without it falling over and having it remain level. One idea is to purchase
leveling furniture legs and attach them to the stand. This would let
the 4 corners sink into the carpet to the concrete? Does this sound
like a good idea? <Well - the smaller the area of contact with the floor, the
higher the pounds-per-square-inch in the contact area. I would think that once
the tank is full, there will be enough weight to keep the whole thing steady -
I've kept a 75 gallon tank on plush carpet before for years, no problem. Just no
Tarzan games on the tank...>
Thanks for a great site!
Eric
***
<Cheers, J -- >
"Tanks, Stands & Covers for Marine Aquarium Systems" -
4/21/2003
To the crew:
I just read the above titled page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm,
and I have a
question. Under "Stands" you wrote of the terms
"level" and "planar". In the "Level"
paragraph, you
wrote "adjust with shimming legs/base of the stand".
In the "Planar" paragraph, you seem to refer to the
area between the stand and the aquarium being flat to
each other. No problem there. My problem is
this: I
had to shim the base of my stand, which now makes the
tank water "level", but the area between the stand and
the floor no longer "planar".
<Mmm, not the space here (betwixt floor and stand) that needs to be planar,
but tween the tank and stand>
Am I missing something
(related to the subject, please :)? Isn't the shim
causing a problem as well as solving one? Are there
special shims and I only have regular shims? Thanks, Rich
<Shims are shims to my understanding. But better that they be long/er and
wide/r and non-compressible than not. Bob Fenner>
Iron stand and leveling
Hello,
I have a 55 gal tank on an iron stand. I just moved and it now sits on a concrete floor that is of course not level. I see so much online (including your wonderful site) about shimming. Though there are never any pictures of this process I imagine this entails using wedge-shaped wood under the stand--wood stands.
<Yes... but the shims may be other material... sometimes metal shims are better>
My iron stand's two front legs contact the floor with U-shaped iron bars. They are relatively thin. How would I go about shimming and/or leveling these?
<Mmm, sometimes... it's better to actually have a piece of plywood under all
four feet and shim up this material... You can use the tank itself as a level...
with just a bit of water to coat/make an even bit of water on the bottom... or a
carpenter's level (again, on the tank itself, on the stand...)>
Currently one side is 5/8 of an inch higher than the other.
<Yeeikes!>
It is completely level front to back....
Thanks.
Lance
<This is quite a bit of difference... glad you didn't try filling it yet. Bob
Fenner>
Nearly Flat Tank Stand - 07/09/05
Hello Crew!
<<Howdy>>
I love your site; it has helped me numerous times!
<<Glad we could be here <G>.>>
I just purchased a 180G glass tank and built a stand for it.
<<I love DIY.>>
I purchased the straightest wood I could find, and surprisingly, the top surface
of the finished product is near perfect in flatness. Note the word NEAR.
<<I did.>>
If I put my straightedge along the surface I can see some light come through;
I'm guessing there is a gap of a millimeter or less.
<<Hmm...ok.>>
Based on information I have found on your site, the consensus is that I should
put some foam under the tank to ensure uniform contact with the stand.
<<A popular solution, yes.>>
So my questions are as follows: I bought some half-inch, pink insulating foam
from my local HD, is this too thick?
<<Possibly>>
Secondly, there is a quarter-inch gap between the base of the tank and the
bottom of the glass. Do I need to worry about any pressure on the bottom piece
of glass as the foam squishes down?
<<Excess pressure on the bottom as the edges settle is certainly a concern, but
if the foam is "soft" there's probably little worry as it should compress
nicely. As your gap is so small... To allay your fears you might consider using
the blue fan-fold foam insulation (also at HD) which is about 1/4" thick.>>
Thanks again!
Dave
<<Regards, Eric R.>>
Leveling my tank
Hi crew. I have a 135G glass tank and I checked to see how level the stand is by running my driver's license between the tank bottom and the top of the
stand.
<Good technique>
There are a few spot where the license will fit through so I wanted to put Styrofoam underneath like the site suggests. My question is what
size Styrofoam? Lowe's carries 1/2", 3/4", and 1". Which one would be best?
<For this size tank, gapping, the half inch will do>
Further more, will that solve the problem?
<Yes, very likely so>
Thank you. Mike
P.S. I have sent a diagram of my proposed setup twice now and haven't gotten a reply, but I think it could possibly be on my end.
<Mmm, we do have trouble (more rather than less as time goes by) with some emails, attachments... have asked our service provider re...>
The file size is 1.67 MB. Is that too big for you to receive?
<Maybe. Alternatively, please try sending to my personal address: fennerrobert@hotmail.com>
I sent it with AOL first, then I used Picassa, a picture program.
<A really neat program>
Is there anything else I can do so you will get the diagram? Tanks!
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Leveling my tank, cont'd
Hello again. You recommended that I use 1/2" Styrofoam sheet to put
between
my 135G tank and stand due to the stand not being flat. I have gotten it
back onto the stand and it closed up most of the gaps, however there is
still one corner that has a gap, probably 1-2 mm. I am wondering if I
should get a thicker piece of Styrofoam, or try to fill with tap water and
see if it settles down and closes the gap. What do you think would be the
best way to go? Thanks again. Mike
<Am feeling uncomfortable recommending a thicker piece here... I would shore
up the stand (a wedge or two under the closer leg/s... and see if this
brings the surface to level, planar. Bob Fenner>
Re: Leveling my tank, cont'd
Bob, thank you for the reply. I sent another message last night because
I
thought you had not gotten this one. Sorry for that.
<No worries. Did see this. We're running a bit behind... as usual>
Also, my stand does
not have legs, the bottom and top is 2X4's that are laying flat.
<Mmm, well, there's got to be "some bottom" to the whole structure... this
is what needs leveling, shimming>
So the
only way shims would work is if I put them directly under the tank which
would mean that the tank would not be supported by the entire stand but
rather just the shims.
<No! As you know>
Further more, then I don't understand how the
Styrofoam would be effective. Please help me, I am at a loss on how to
remedy this. Thanks.
<The foam/base is good for a small amount of uneven-ness of the stand
base... but not a good idea to rely on it for more than a few millimeters
over a few feet run... The sealant, glass can "give" a bit, but not too
much. Bob Fenner>
New 75 gal setup question, tank not lying flat on stand
I have a recently set up top fin 75 gal tank and stand. One thing I noticed
in the back is that the tank is not sitting exactly flush in the middle of the stand.
<Yikes....>
You could slide a paper between them barely, but this just highlights that it is not exactly flush at this point the exact center out
about 10 in each direction. All the corners and front are flush. Is this ok?
<No>
Is it better to have foam between the tank and stand?
<Ah, yes!>
I have heard both sides and some manufacturers will tell you not to do this. Please
advise.
Thanks
Will
<All edges of the tank must lie flat/planar and level... All manufacturers I know of will NOT warranty their tanks if this is not provided on their stands. Bob Fenner>
Stand Leveling Problems -
Hi guys,
I am just about to set up my 120 gallon tank in my basement. My LFS owner is a
friend of mine and he is helping me build a nice solid oak stand for it. The
problem is my basement is horribly unlevel, and something is going to have to go
under the stand to level the tank. I don't want to cut the stand nor do I think
it would work for the way it's built. The only thing I can think of is to make a
box out of a strong wood that would level out a 5 foot by 2 ft section of my
basement. That way I could set up my tank rite on top of it and whenever the
tank came down (I'm going to college in a year) the stand would still be level.
Would this work. Any other ideas? <It would work... I suppose it depends just
how uneven your basement floor is. I've kept a tank in my basement before, and
it's safe to say that very few concrete slabs are perfectly level. What I did
was fill the tank just one inch - enough to see the water above the trim, and
then used shims [available at Home Depot] added around the outer edges to level
the tank. If you've got large changes in grade - over half an inch, then you
probably do need to consider other options to level this out.>
Thanks, Jake
<Cheers, J -- >
Taking His Tank To A Whole New (Even) Level!
Scott,
<Hello again!>
Thank you for you reply.
<You're quite welcome!>
If you don't mind, I would like to ask you a few more questions. I got the regular pine stand sold by AGA and I'm planning to set it up in a room with hard wood floor. I already reinforced the bottom of the stand so that my sump does not crash through the thin ply that AGA puts in.
<You're not the first person who has mentioned that to me!>
Yesterday, I was about to start shimming the stand to make the tank level (the front needs to go up only about 1/8") and then thought that the individual shims could put more pressure on some of the floor planks than the others. But perhaps this is not an issue since the planks are nailed to the plywood under it, the tank will be standing right next to a load baring wall and will be supported by a number of 2x8's.
So when you shim a stand like mine, do you put a few shims under the stand to get it level, or do you try to distribute the pressure on as many shims as possible (note that the bottom of the sand is constructed as a frame, it does not have 4 legs)?
<Even distribution of weight is essential! You certainly don't want to create any uneven pressure on one of the tank walls.>
On your web site I saw a few recommendations to put 3/4" piece of plywood under the stand. Is this needed with this type of floor/stand?
<Purely subjective...No right or wrong on this one. If it keeps things nice and level, and helps distribute the weight of the tank evenly, it's not a bad idea.>
If so, do you put the shim between the ply and the stand, or between the ply and the floor?
<I'd place it between the ply and the stand, myself>
Thanks, Petr
<My pleasure, Petr. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Teetering Tank - Very Scary (3/7/04)
First of all, I would like to say that you guys are wonderful.
<Thanks> I am having a problem with my 90 gallon Oceanic bow front
aquarium. I installed shims under the stand to level the aquarium. After filling
the aquarium, it remained level, and I thought I was home free. The problem I am
having is that the aquarium is sitting on such thick carpet, you can rock the
tank if you make sudden movements by it (i.e. jump a little/run by). Oceanic
stands are flat on the bottom, so it really doesn't "dig" into the
carpet like my old stand did. The stand is very narrow, and tall, so I think
this only adds to the problem. What are your recommendations? The best way to
describe it is that the stand is merely floating on the top of the carpet. While
I don't think anybody is going to rock the stand enough to send it crashing to
the floor, I am concerned about the minor movements due to the carpeting. The
last thing I want is to create extra stress by these possible movements. Please
advise. Thanks, Matt
<Matt: This is an EXTREMELY dangerous situation, especially if you have small
children. Any degree ability to rock can lead to toppling in the right
circumstance. Toppling the tank could easily kill a child. And actually, a large
shard of glass in the right spot could kill an adult. I recommend you drain the
tank right away. Then: Choice #1: find another place for it where there's a hard
floor. Another option: Have a carpet person come and cut a hole in the carpet
big enough to accommodate the stand. You could put down vinyl flooring in that
space and put a proper edge/border between it and the carpet. Steve Allen.>
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