Aquarium Leveling   8/16/06
Dear WWM Crew,
    Hello and thank you for taking the time to read this message.  I have a problem and would greatly appreciate your advice on the matter.  
    I recently finished the construction of a DIY aquarium stand for a 30 gallon aquarium. I was overall pleased with the stand's stability and looks.  The design has (4) 2x4s as legs and are secured perpendicularly by 2x4 frames at the top and bottom of the legs.  The top and the bottom both have 3/4 inch plywood panels that cover the frames.   I brought it into the house and placed it in the intended spot.  I leveled it using a carpenter's level and a few shims.  (My basement floor is not exactly even.)  After that I placed the aquarium on top of the stand and noticed that the aquarium could "rock".  The best way to explain it is that when you press down on the rear right corner of the aquarium the front left corner lifts off the stand a rough 4 mm and vice versa.
<Yikes... yes, the floor is "strong enough" to show it level w/o the added weight on it...>
If you hold down one corner of the aquarium and measure the gap on the other side it comes out at about a 4 mm gap that spans 29" along the aquarium.  I  think that the top plywood panel is bowed upwards in the middle and is causing the problem.
<Mmm, not likely... if attached (nailed or screwed) about "right", every six inches or so along the top of the two by's... would be planar, flat...>
I have read in related questions that others having a seemingly similar problem have utilized a Styrofoam pad between the aquarium and the stand.  Is my problem too severe for this solution?  
<Not really... best to put an equivalent weight on the stand, level it then...>
Obviously shimming one edge of the aquarium wouldn't work.  I haven't attempted to fill the aquarium or plan on doing so until I have solved the problem.
<Thank goodness>
If you think the foam would work please also suggest a thickness.  Or if you have any other ideas please do not hesitate to voice them.  
    Thank you for your time,
    Andrew             
<Weights... perhaps thick books... and shimming the stand. Bob Fenner>

AquaC Skimmer Selection/Stand Modification - 08/05/06
WWM Crew,
<<Scott>>
I am going to be setting up a 180 gallon acrylic reef system with LPS corals in the near future.
<<Neat!>>
I currently have an All-Glass stand (24" tall), but don't have the tank yet.  I have recently been told that since I am setting up an acrylic system (this will be my first), that acrylic tanks need support for the entire tank and I will need to attach a sheet of plywood to the top of the stand (no problem).  Is this true?
<<That is correct, and keep in mind this is all that will be supporting the tank in the center of the stand...I suggest a "minimum" thickness of 3/4".  And since I like my tanks a bit higher than "standard" tank stand height anyway, I would even consider two layers of plywood>>
Now for the skimmer, I recently read your skimmer articles
(thanks...they were extremely helpful) and it appears as though you have nothing but good things to say about the AquaC line of skimmers and that their customer service is 2nd to none.
<<Indeed, have spoken with the owner/President (Jason Kim) on occasion...an extremely nice/helpful fella.  There are other great skimmer brands out there (Euro-Reef is my current fave), but I think you'll be quite happy with AquaC>>
The EV 180 is rated to 200 gallons and the EV 240 is rated to 350 gallons (of course you already know this).  Since my stand is 24" tall and the 240 is 26" tall, would the 180 run the tank efficiently or would I be better off somehow modifying the stand (any suggestions) to accompany the 240 (not sure how much additional space I would need to remove the collection cup).
<<Well Scott, as I recall, Jason's design allows you to remove the skimmer cup with as little as 1/4" clearance, but that still won't allow you to put the 240 in your current stand.  If I were to have a look at your stand/had a detailed description I could recommend a way to increase the height (if possible), but otherwise I'm reluctant to make suggestions.  As for the EV-180 servicing your system, yes, I think it would unless you plan to stock very heavily in which case a larger/different brand that fits the stand might serve better>>
Thanking you in advance for your feedback and keep up the great work.  This is a great forum.
<<Thank you for the kind words…for writing so well>>
Scott  
<<Regards, EricR>>

Oceanic aquarium, custom stand - 07/26/06
Hey guys.  
<<Hey, Kevin. Tom with you.>>
I had delivered to my house yesterday a 215G Oceanic aquarium.
<<If this were in color, you'd see me as green...with envy. :)>>
I built the stand myself so I could tie it in with a wet bar that it sits behind. I have experience in furniture making, so the stand is really well built, and is perfectly planar and level. The stands top is a piece of 3/4 ply board that is larger than the aquarium itself, with the supports being right under the aquarium as well as having the plywood supported on its edges that are not under the aquarium.  I hope this makes sense?  
<<Does to me. Got a basement full of sawdust-creating equipment myself.>>
When the aquarium was placed on the top, which I had marked off for the exact placement, I later noticed a gap between the front, long edge of the aquarium and the stand.  I can snugly slide about 5 playing cards within the widest part of that gap.   
<<1/16", from my quick measure, Kevin.>>
The back edge of the aquarium also seems to not fit snugly, but with only room for perhaps two playing cards to fit.  The two short edges and the four corners fit perfectly tight.
<<Good.>>
Because the top is larger than the aquarium itself, I'm still able to place my 6 ft metal level right in front of the aquarium and it still shows no gaps between the level and the stand.  I checked my level against a few other flat surfaces around my home and it is fine, so this gap is due to the construction of the aquarium itself, and not my stand.  I'm positive on this fact!  
<<I'm still with you...>>
I was recommended to not place a foam or rubber matting between the aquarium and the stand, as the store that I purchased it from said that as long as the stand is flat and planar, it was unnecessary, and there was always a chance for the mat itself to become kinked in the placement of the aquarium.  
<<Agreed.>>
After watching them place and slide the aquarium into position, I can see why this would be true, at least in my particular case.  What would be your opinion on this situation?  
<<My opinion is that there will be some "flex" in the aquarium as weight, i.e. water, is added, bringing the bottom completely to rest on your stand. Based on what you've shared here, it can't go any farther than dead, flat level.>>
Could I slide playing cards between the tank and the stand, along the length of the gap, so that this gap is thus filled, or would this
itself perhaps cause a problem if the tank then wants to settle once full?
<<Don't "shim" anything. The frame members and tank bottom need to "settle" equally. Shimming the frame alone will create stress points on the bottom plate of the tank that could pull the bottom away from the lower-front and, lower-rear, frame members, particularly at the highest shim points.>>
I went with Oceanic due to their reputation as being a very good maker of aquariums, but I also know that they will not guarantee the aquarium if it's not placed on one of their stands, so I'm more than a bit concerned.
<<Understood. Why not call the outfit out that delivered and placed the aquarium? Express your concerns to someone who knows what he/she is talking about. I'm willing to wager that the 1/16" of "deflection" is not going to be a problem but, then again, it isn't my money, is it? :) Worst case, so to speak, have it returned and have another delivered. A pain in the backside, to be sure, but for the kind of money you're spending, you deserve to be confident that all is well.>>
Thank you very much.
Kevin Jackson            
<<Good luck, Kevin. Tom>>

Re: Oceanic aquarium, custom stand - 07/26/06
Tom,
<<Hi, Kevin.>>
Thank you so much for your timely and well thought out opinion.  What you said is what I basically expected to hear, and yes 1/16" is the correct measurement.  
<<Great minds, Kevin. :)>>
I do have a call into the store from which it was purchased, which is a marine store with an experienced staff.  
<<Excellent.>>
I also have an email into Oceanic Systems themselves, but thought I would get an experienced 'outside' opinion since the last thing I'm sure they want to do is come back and pick that brute up again!  
<<I'm sure you're right, Kevin, but this is going out to all of our readers. Oceanic, indeed, has a fine reputation. You'll be more than satisfied with the results of their efforts as well as those of your own. >>
Thanks again.
Kevin    
<<Any time. Be talking... Tom>>

A little freaked out ... drilled glass tank worries/worrier   7/26/06
Hello Crew, well to the point.... I'm literally days away from setting up my new 180, beautiful stand/canopy done, Lifereef sump/skimmer, 6 *80W T5 with 2 * 250 MH HQI retro,  etc etc etc. I got great stuff and took my time buying and planning, reading and asked lots of questions (a few here).. Well I'm just about ready to go and I was on Reef Central tonight only to see a picture of a 180 show like mine that cracked on the bottom that was drilled!!! It has freaked me out a bit. My tank was built by a local guy with 1/2 inch glass, I got All-Glass to send me their braces for the top and bottom and siliconed in custom built acrylic overflows. The bottom pane has 8 holes in it. 2 in each overflow and 4 in the corners for Oceans Motions device. The tank I saw on RC cracked because his holes were in the middle from the weight of the rock. So I would like some reassurance or some pointers
1) Is this not safe?
<Should be fine>
2) I plan on a 4" DSB with 200 lbs of live rock so you have idea of weight.
3) Can I support it better to be more strong along with the All-Glass brace? Maybe Styrofoam or something.
<A good idea to assure the tank itself is on a support that is complete, strong, level and planar... Have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above?>
I can provide pics if needed, the stand is solid and custom designed buy a contractor experienced in aquatic design and is lipped so the bottom of the tank slides nice about 1" inside.
Hopefully I am OK here and you calm me, but better safe then sorry.
Thanks Jeff
<Likely all will work out here. Bob Fenner>

Finding Out If My New House Can Support My Tank.   7/3/06
Hi WWM crew,
<Hello Alex>
I'm moving to a new house soon and I'm not sure if my new house's floor can support the weight of my tank. I have a 90G tank with a 33G sump. I never thought a tank this size could cause trouble. However, in the old house (the one I'm living in now), the tank was located on 1st story with a wooden floor, it was there for a bit over one year, and after I moved it to the garage a few days ago, I actually found out that the floor was uneven. I went down to the basement and I can see that the part of the ceiling of the basement underneath where the tank was to is a bit lower than other part of the ceiling. I suspect it is partly due to the fact that over the course of the year there was a few times of water leaks caused by my skimmer at the sump which poured well over 10~20G on my floor. I'm wondering if it is the water leaks that soften the wooden floor and probably even the wood structure of the house and therefore caused the floor to actually lower?
<Quite possible, yes.  Just the water alone weighs in at over 700 pounds.>
The new house that I'm moving into is just a normal wooden house like so many in North America, I believe though, I have not yet been able to really confirm that. Are there ways I can easily find out if the floors can support the weight of the tank or not? If not, I'll probably have to leave the tank in the garage.
<Most homes will have 2x10 joists on 16” centers, which should not pose a problem supporting the weight of a 90-gallon tank.  I’d stay away from metal stands where the weight is just distributed through four small areas. Cabinet type stands spread the weight out much better as they have a larger footprint on the floor.>
Thanks!
<You’re welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Alex

New to the hobby . . . a little advice ... MacL's Back!!!
Hey To all of you at WWM! <Hi there, MacL here after a long hiatus.>
The hobby of fish keeping has just recently became a very serious interest of mine, I housed a few 10 gallon tanks for years but just recently increased my tank sizes... a lot. <Beware it can become seriously addicting.> I am still living at my parents house, because I just graduated from high school, so my room has became the show room for my two aquariums. I have a 46 gallon bowfront FW tank and a 55 gallon SW tank. <Very nice.> I have a picture attached to give you a better idea on the situation. <Unfortunately the picture didn't make it to me. Sorry!> The floor seems to be holding these two aquariums fine. I searched on your FAQ's on aquarium stands and floor support and found that the type of iron stand supporting my 55 gallon should have a piece of plywood under it!!! <The plywood spreads the weight and basically, for lack of a better word, cushions it. It also provides bracing so the legs don't bend and fail on you. Always a good idea to prevent a problem.>  I would drain my tank and get right on that but I plan on taking the 46 and 55 out of my room and just keeping a 125 gallon aquarium with a nice level wood stand. My parents seem concerned with this (which is understandable) but it is only 25 gallons more of weight. <It is indeed just a little bit more weight but it does have a little to do with weight disbursement. What you also need to remember is that water weighs 8 lbs per gallon so when you figure 125 gallon you have around 1000lbs of weight. Most people do not have the support beams in their house to hold that and need to do some additional bracing unless they use a load bearing wall.> I do not see this being a problem as long as the weight is equally distributed. I am hoping you guys can help me out because the only reason for upgrading to a 125 is from all of the useful information I found regarding proper tank sizes for fish. <Absolutely the way to go, the larger the tank, absolutely the better for many, many reasons.> My local fish store which does strictly saltwater fish convinced me that a baby striped pufferfish (around 3 inches) and a large lionfish (around 7 inches) would do just fine together in a 55 gallon tank! <EEEEEKKKKKK.>
I don't want my poor animals growth to get stunted from such a small tank.
My striped Pufferfish has been very stressed since I introduced the lionfish. <Not surprising, have you seen the size of the lionfishes mouth? Reminds me of some people I know digging in at the local buffet.> The lionfish seems territorial but has never attacked my little friend. All my puffer fish does now is lay on the bottom hiding in openings of live rock except for when food is dropped in at nights. I honestly think that the only reason for this is that fact that the tank is to small and extremely over crowded. I searched and found the striped puffer fish can reach 15 to 20 inches, is this in captivity or in the wild? Again the big question I have really concerns my floor supporting the weight of a 125 gallon. With a sturdy stand and foam or ply-wood underneath I hope it would not be a concern, if so could you please point me in the right direction of what to do for it to work. <Are you on the first floor or the second floor? That makes a huge difference!> The house is probably a little over 25 years old. My Local Fish store said a tank of 180 gallons would be fine in my room because the weight would even out to be around a pound to each square inch... I trust your advice much more than theirs especially after they sold me those animals knowing I had such a small tank. <I have to say that it really depends on the location in your house. Where you plan to put the tank. If it won't work in the location you planned perhaps some negotiations with your parents. Do you have a basement?> I learned my mistake and do all my research on WWM now, thanks a lot guys. Also in the past I have emailed to you, I found a few of my messages answered but had trouble searching and finding the rest of them, I think this is because I was new to the site and didn't know where to find them. I am pretty sure I have it figured out now though, do I click on the "today's FAQ's page?" I figure I do although I didn't see a special section for the Saltwater FAQ's. Just Fresh and Brackish. <Look under Marine.>
Also to give you a better idea on the setup of my room for the support of a 125 I took a picture which includes the 46 gallon bow front (left side) and the 55 gallon Saltwater (right side). Both are on the same wall. And a picture of my very large lionfish as well if you had any interest in seeing it! I picked him up pretty much full grown for only 30 dollars.. The guys at the LFS enjoy my company there and sell me fish extremely cheap. <That's a good thing and a bad thing when they sell you a fish that doesn't work for the size of your tank. Obviously though you are on the right track.>
Again thanks for taking the time to read through this email and answer my questions! Do you guys get paid to do this ? I hope so!  <Nope no payment. Good luck. MacL>
-Peter

Tank Shimming/Carpet Woes - 06/20/06
Hello Bob and/or fellow WWM folks.
<<Fellow Eric here>>
I noticed my 75g mega-flow (with 20g tank, as sump, filled to ~15g) is out of level.
<<Mmm...>>
I have not checked the degree, as of yet, but it is clearly visible from the carpet.
<<Placing a tank on carpet, while surely a "doable" thing, can often be problematic...not to mention hard on the carpet>>
I discovered this, unfortunate, detail this morning.  This tank took the place of the 55 gallon that sat in the same place.  This tank (AGA) is on a pine stand which in turn is on ¾" plywood placed over carpet to distribute the weight.
<<Even so, differences in density of the materials bonded together to make up the carpet pad can lead to variances in "compressibility" of the pad leading to the issue you now face>>
Now, from the wall, the tank is off level where the back is higher and the front is lower due to the compression of the carpet.
<<Ahh...you may be too close to the wall with the plywood and catching the "tack-strip">>
I picked up shims and here is the plan:
<<Shims eh...you're making me nervous...>>
1. Get the 55g and fill with water and live rock from the 75.  I also have some Rubbermaid containers large enough to serve.
2. I am going to leave the fish in as I can pump the water both to and from with a spare Mag-Drive pump.
<<...?>>
3. I intend to shim between the carpet and the plywood as the stand seems very much even on the board and the compression is in the carpet.
<<Careful here, be sure you know what you are doing...if the plywood is not "fully" supported it WILL flex>>
4. I am going to retest the level and shim as needed while refilling the tank adjusting for any area out of level.
I have the wooden shims and I also picked up some ¼" aluminum stock metal in 3' lengths that I can use.  Emptying the tank seems safest from everything I read thus far.
<<Yes, definitely empty the tank during this adjustment>>
I am fairly certain this is from the carpet and not the floor past the normal settling that is present in our home.
<<Am in agreement>>
This was a lousy discovery but better than a broken tank for missing it longer.
<<Yes>>
Is there anything I am missing here or should be inclined to focus on more so?
<<Other than cutting out a space in the carpet for the tank, no.  Do Make sure the plywood is fully supported and not just propped up along the edges, and be aware the plane will likely "shift" as weight is added>>
Should I be concerned with over compensating as the back end could also settle?
<<As you stated, it is likely not the sub-floor that is the problem (though this too could be less than "flat and level").  Maybe you could try just moving things out a couple inches from the wall and see how it measures up>>
Should I instead (I will need help from friends to do this) move the tank and remove the carpet beneath?
<<This would be my preference if at all a possibility>>
If you respond via email; this is my work email so I will receive it tomorrow.  I will likely attempt to level with the shims tonight.  I will readjust as needed.
<<I hope all goes well>>
Thank you.
James Zimmer
Garfield, NJ
<<Quite welcome.  Eric Russell...Columbia, SC>>

Large Tank...Safe on Second Floor? - 06/15/06
Hey To all of you at WWM!
<<Hey there Peter!>>
The hobby of fish keeping has just recently became a very serious interest of mine, I housed a few 10 gallon tanks for years but just recently increased my tank sizes... a lot.
<<Cool!>>
I am still living at my parent’s house, because I just graduated from high school, so my room has become the show room for my two aquariums.  I have a 46 gallon bow front FW tank and a 55 gallon SW tank.  I have a picture attached to give you a better idea on the situation.
<<Hmm...no picture attached...>>
The floor seems to be holding these two aquariums fine.
<<For reader clarification...we're talking about a second-story room>>
I searched on your FAQ's on aquarium stands and floor support and found that the type of iron stand supporting my 55 gallon should have a piece of plywood under it!!!
<<For spreading the weight, yes>>
I would drain my tank and get right on that but I plan on taking the 46 and 55 out of my room and just keeping a 125 gallon aquarium with a nice level wood stand.  My parents seem concerned with this (which is understandable) but it is only 25 gallons more of weight.
<<But likely concentrated in a smaller footprint depending on the distance between the other two tanks>>
I do not see this being a problem as long as the weight is equally distributed.  I am hoping you guys <<or gals>> can help me out because the only reason for upgrading to a 125 is from all of the useful information I found regarding proper tank sizes for fish.
<<Well Peter, It is quite likely all will be fine if the tank is along the wall and perpendicular to the floor joists.  But let me suggest that for about a C-note you could have a structural engineer come by for a look to confirm.  I have heard/read about folks with tanks much larger than the 125 on the upper floors of their homes, and, I have a good friend with a 120 in the room over his garage.  But for my money and peace of mind, the hundred or so dollars spent to have an engineer take a look and provide their stamp of approval (or not!) is well worth it>>
My local fish store which does strictly saltwater fish convinced me that a baby striped pufferfish (around 3 inches) and a large lionfish (around 7 inches) would do just fine together in a 55 gallon tank!
<<Yikes!...no way!>>
I don't want my poor animal's growth to get stunted from such a small tank.
<<Not to mention the other health/psychological issues that would arise>>
My striped Pufferfish has been very stressed since I introduced the Lionfish.  The lionfish seems territorial but has never attacked my little friend.
<<Am hearing more and more about incompatibilities between these to genera of fishes>>
All my puffer fish does now is lay on the bottom hiding in openings of live rock except for when food is dropped in at nights.  I honestly think that the only reason for this is that fact that the tank is too small and extremely over crowded.
<<Possibly...do some reading here and among the indices at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffcareinfo.htm >>
I searched and found the striped puffer fish can reach 15 to 20 inches, is this in captivity or in the wild?
<<Is this fish Arothron manilensis?  If so then yes, though more likely to attain a length of 10-12 inches in captivity...still way too much fish for the 55>>
Again the big question I have really concerns my floor supporting the weight of a 125 gallon.  With a sturdy stand and foam or ply-wood underneath I hope it would not be a concern, if so could you please point me in the right direction of what to do for it to work.
<<The "stand" has little to do with whether or not the floor will support your tank>>
The house is probably a little over 25 years old.
<<Then it is likely the joists are a bit "undersized" by today's standards/building code...but that doesn't mean they won't support the tank, just more reason to consult a structural engineer>>
My Local Fish store said a tank of 180 gallons would be fine in my room because the weight would even out to be around a pound to each square inch...
<<And did they also show you their degrees in engineering?>>
I trust your advice much more than theirs especially after they sold me those animals knowing I had such a small tank.
<<A troubling but all too common happening>>
I learned my mistake and do all my research on WWM now, thanks a lot guys.
<<WWM is a great place to start, but please don't limit your "fact finding" to a single source.  Always try to obtain info from different areas/perspectives and then base a decision on your own good judgment>>
Also in the past I have emailed to you, I found a few of my messages answered but had trouble searching and finding the rest of them, I think this is because I was new to the site and didn't know where to find them.  I am pretty sure I have it figured out now though, do I click on the "today's FAQ's page?"
<<Yep>>
I figure I do although I didn't see a special section for the Saltwater FAQ's. Just Fresh and Brackish.
<<The "Dailies" page is a homogenous collection of "all" the day's replies>>
Also to give you a better idea on the setup of my room for the support of a 125 I took a picture which includes the 46 gallon bow front (left side) and the 55 gallon Saltwater (right side). Both are on the same wall.
<<Afraid the picture doesn't seem to have accompanied the email>>
And a picture of my very large lionfish as well if you had any interest in seeing it!
<<Would, if it were here <grin> >>
I picked him up pretty much full grown for only 30 dollars.  The guys at the LFS enjoy my company there and sell me fish extremely cheap.
<<Mmm...and apparently with little regard as to whether you have the facilities to keep such animals>>
Again thanks for taking the time to read through this email and answer my questions!
<<No worries mate...is what we do>>
Do you guys get paid to do this ? I hope so!
<<We're an "all volunteer force" my friend...but that's not to say there isn't some benefit to being here...not the least of which is the satisfaction that comes from supplying perspective/help/advice to folks such as yourself, and the knowledge that what we do is good and important to the hobby and to the lives of all our aquatic charges>>
-Peter
<<Regards, EricR>>

Pitching a wobbly... tank  6/5/06
Dear Bob and/ or staff,
<Just us fishes, fish-folk>
I have a very serious situation concerning my tank and I really need help. I have previously had the tank in the basement, but I decided to move it up to the living room. I bought a cabinet stand and transferred everything upstairs relatively smoothly. What I am concerned with is the fact that now, when the tank is full, when you walk heavily around it it kinda shakes, wobbles.
<Very bad, dangerous>
The floor is made of hardwood.  What should I do about this, is it safe? Please respond ASAP. Thanks you very much
John Ferrante
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

180 AGA with twin overflows question  - 05/19/2006
Hello WWM Crew,
Love your site.  Your FAQs are always the first place I look when I have aquarium questions, and I couldn't seem to find the answer to the issue I am facing with my brand new 180gal (6'x2'x2') AGA with twin Mega-Flow overflows and an AGA Model 4 Sump.  
The tank is built into the wall in my basement, on a DIY stand made from 4x4s, 2x4s, plywood, and carriage bolts.  The concrete basement floor is not level, but I purchased a 4' carpenter's level to help me with properly leveling the aquarium.  I spent the better part of an afternoon leveling, filling, draining, shimming, and re-leveling the aquarium until I've reached the point where I am satisfied that the tank is level.  The bubble is inside the lines no matter where I place the carpenter's level on top of the aquarium.    
Here comes my problem, I fill the tank up and the water spills over the overflow boxes, but the left overflow box seems to fill up faster than the right overflow box.  Does this mean that my tank is still not level?  It took the right overflow box almost another full minute to fill to the point where the water drained down the Durso standpipe into the sump.  
Could this be an issue with the way my tank was manufactured, as in maybe one overflow box was off by a few MMs when it was assembled/siliconed? Or is it more likely that my tank is still not "perfectly" level?  Is this something that I should be concerned about?  Will this reduce my flow significantly out of the right overflow box into the sump?
Any thoughts you may have are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
<<Dave:  I have the same tank on a stand.  While I don't have stand pipes, my overflows seem to drain about the same.  It could also be the height of the teeth at the top is different or the number of teeth on one side versus the other.  If you are convinced that your tank is level (you might want a second opinion from someone else to make sure), then everything will probably be OK.  Another test of whether it is level or not might be performed by measuring the height of the water to the top of the tank with a ruler around various points.  If it's the same, you're probably level.  Best of luck,  Roy>>

180 Starfire Oceanic with 1/4" higher corner  - 05/13/2006
Dear Crew:
<Tim>
Wow! What an impressive collection of knowledge you provide! Thank you. I have been reading for weeks, and although I have searched and read, and read further, I have some specific questions I am not 100% sure of. I may be re-iterating that which has been answered often before. If so, your kindness once more, please!
<Hotay!>
My major concerns are about leveling the tank (see below), but here are the data of what we have running:
We are 1/2-year freshwater enthusiasts, progressing from 20g to 55g to now 180g freshwater. Your website has helped us so much! Thanks. The latest (and perhaps last for a while) tank has cycled and we are nearing adding a dozen angelfish.  We have 6 Bolivian rams, a Kribensis female, a Venezuelan (German) ram, 9 head/tail-light tetras (nobody eats them!), and 9 red wag platys. They love their tank, and are displaying great colors. For lighting we have 2x 24" Aqualights (temporary), 3x 450W MHs (was intended as a saltwater by prior owner, look beautiful when we are home in the evening, great shimmer effect, we run 1 or 2 at night for 2-3 hours), 1x 160W VHO AquaLight 10k and 160W actinic (not yet wired).
<I'd switch this lamp out for more "white">
Water temp rests at 80-81 degrees. Water acidified to 6.8pH (local is 7.6), nitrate 10ppm, nitrite 0.25ppm, ammonia 0.125ppm,
<Mmm, these last two... should be zip>
hardness 80. Below tank is 30 gallon sump with bio-balls, 1200gph (soon to be 3600gph) pump; substrate is slate, various types of washed gravel, small area of sand, numerous sword plants, some others. Fish generally very excited about life, eat tropical crisps, live blackworms, mini cichlid granules for the rams, and occasional veggies. Canopy is 14" tall (yes, a beauty, we love it). Tank stand is standard 32" tall. Not totally Amazon biotype, but general idea is there.
The tank seller is a LFS-store owner, who never set up his dream marine tank, and sold it to us. Starfire 3 sides, high-grade ballast for MHs, all appears in a great shape. Never had water before. It has been water-filled for 3 weeks now. He came and plumbed it, and set it up. He is still helping, but I have concerns about some of the advice. The tank (72"x24"x24") sits on an Oceanic 180g oak stand, on 18" size tile floor which is generally planar and level, however the front left corner of the tank is 1/4" lower water level than the other three corners (so, its 1/4" higher on the tile, correct? yikes?).
<Yes, yikes>
He made little deal of this and suggested shims from HD.
<Needs to be done... stat! Drain this tank down...>
After reading your wonderful resources, I see that shimming while full is foolish, and we need to empty.  The Oceanic stand has continuous contact with the floor. The tank appears to have fabulous contact with the stand (I don't see where I could place a drivers license or pieces of paper between tank and stand). For that matter, cannot place paper between stand and floor, yet the water level is clearly off by 1/4" at front left corner.
It seems this is not a good place to leave it. Placing a spirit-level on canopy, tank side, stand and floor yield similar results, about 1/8 of the bubble is out of the square. The rise from left-back to left-front side is 1/4" over 24" from right front to left front rise is also 1/4" (of course). Silicone appears okay, minimal bubbling anywhere, definitely no bowing (of course glass is extra thick because of starfire grade).
<... yes... this laminate, like all glass is a super-cooled liquid, not really a "solid"... can/is "giving" a bit here, along with the Silastic sealant... but not a good gamble>
Here is my plan (please critique and correct):
1. remove canopy, drain 140-150 gallons into temporary Rubbermaid containers nearby, lights off to save the plants, 30gallons remain in tank with gravel
2. perhaps move rams into temporary 10g (new) tank with the same water, Neons into another 10g and platys into another 10g (we can get new ones for $8 each, seems cheap investment)
<I'd remove some of the rock perhaps, but not the fishes... too stressful, unnecessary>
3. remove some of the slate and larger rock (we could clean the algae bloom off at the same time by boiling the rock)
<I wouldn't boil...>
4. shim right front corner approx 1/8", check level and planar (if it is, fill in every 4-6 inches with shims that do not change level or planar status)
5. shim left rear and right rear corners the same, reinforce every 6 inches, check level and planar all around
6. this leaves the rear ground-contact of the stand unsupported, but may be hard to shim because close to wall. Struggle on and shim it, ignore it, or should we rather be thinking of moving the entire stand and tank, placing foam or plywood on the tile (please say no to this), then stand on top of that, then tank on top of that, then refill to 20-40 gallons, and recheck level and planar (possibly shim again)
<Not necessary to add the padding>
7. add more water back, check level and planar
8. add fish
9. top off to allow water circulation to resume, plug in pumps etc
From what I have read the 1/4" higher at front corner is potentially very bad, but may be reasonably remedied with the shims.
<Yes>
I wish 1 corner was 1/4" lower, then only a few shims. The way it is, we will have to shim 3 sides (really should be 4).  Going back to the LFS guy, he was not too worried because it is a solid bottom stand.
I want to correct the problem soon, but am hesitant to rush in and make it worse, and really regret.  We have adequate Rubbermaid containers to safely store 150gallons water temporarily, and I have external PVC inventions to both drain and restore the water level.
We also have established 3x10g, 1x20g and 1x55g tanks, but the pH is nearer to 7.0 in each.
Sorry if this is overbearing detail, but wanted to provide enough for you to answer. We love this tank, I want to make sure we do a very good job. My significant other thinks I am way too engrossed in the whole thing, and just wants to get the angels in there (now that the tank is cycled).
Thanks so much! Eagerly awaiting your thoughts.
Best,
Tim in Florida.
<Thank you for writing so thoroughly, clearly. Good luck, life with this project. Bob Fenner>

Set-Up/Tank Leveling    4/25/06
Jon from NB Canada  <James from Michigan>
Hi, I would like to say your site is great.  <We thank you.>
I have a 55 gal tank with a homemade stand, it has 2x4's on all 4 sides top and bottom. My question is first on water level. Right know I have a difference of 1/16 of an inch at one corner. Is this acceptable? <Yes.> Second you suggest foam for between the tank and stand to take up imperfections. I don't have foam but was wondering if a thick blanket would work. probably about 1/2 inch thick. <Styrofoam works well and is cheap.  Don't like the blanket idea.>
Thanks for the help
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jon

Best support for 60 gal window tank... as "in" place of the window!    4/16/06
My name is Don I recently built a 55-60 gal tank with 1/2" glass. The dimensions are 9 1/2  deep  X  37 wide X 38 height.
<Wow... hope you have long arms Don>
It will be placed on a 1 x 10 x 37 pine board that sits on top of a  masonry wall.
<I'd put a thin piece of foam twixt this tank and the pine...>
This opening used to be a window  that was removed  to provide an opening between two rooms. For the most part,  the board is level ....but one corner is not.....without the tank in it I can see about 1/8 inch drop.
<... I'd level this out for sure... with masonry>
I guess my question is,    besides Styrofoam, which I do not think will solve my leveling problem what other  type of compressible material could I use for this application??  
<Yes... perhaps an epoxy-based repair... this is too much gap>
I'm not sure yet how much it's going to weigh with everything in it. ( Gravel and other things. )
<Count on about ten pounds per gallon total>
The other question is should I build a flat steel plate frame and shim it with something like automotive  Bondo that's not compressible and then use 1/2 inch or thicker Styrofoam to separate the glass from the metal ?
<This is one approach, yes>
The top edges on both sides of the wall will have supports so no one can accidentally push the tank out of the opening, once it is level...
         thank you for your input
                   Don
<Mmm, what else to mention... This tank is going to be a proverbial "bear" to keep clean... and thermally stable... with exposure to the elements, sun... It may well be that you'll want to make this container into something other than an aquarium here. Bob Fenner>

New  125 not  level  - 4/11/2006
Ok ive
done a search but Im
still unsure what to do here. I just finished putting up my new 125 gallon transferring corals fish rock from my old 55. Got it full and realized I am a little over 1/4 inch off level from left to right.
front to back is ok. I did shim a little on the front right but still not good. So how serious of a problem is this?
<Could be real trouble>
should I address immediately or am I ok for a while to see if it settles some? Should I completely drain or am I ok. Not sure what to do and how soon?
<If it were me/mine, I'd empty, re-level and use a bit of support material as detailed on WWM. Fix your English before mailing us please. Bob Fenner>

Large Tank Stand Construction...No Particleboard Please! - 03/30/06
Hi, I searched your archived questions, but can't seem to find one about this specifically...
<<Ok>>
I am planning on constructing a support base for a rather large Fish Tank (approx 350-500 gal) and have seen photos where they have
apparently built the stand out of cabinets, but can't exactly tell
whether or not they are false cabinets with metal bracing inside or not.  My question is: if I construct the base from cabinets which are 5/8" particleboard frames, which are installed on those black plastic European-style leveling legs (each has a weight capacity of 650 lbs), and have a Granite countertop installed on top of these cabinets, do you think that the total weight would be able to be supported by these cabinets?
<<Mmm, no...I don't recommend particleboard as a "weight bearing" structural support.  Aside from its low shear strength (as compared to dimensioned lumber/structural beams), any amount of moisture will greatly compromise it.  As for the "leveling legs", they may be able to support the weight but the particle board won't be able to support them.>>
I am assuming that at 8.5lbs/gal that I'm looking at most at 4,250 lbs + about 800 lbs for the granite, but should I also be considering plants/fish/coral/rocks/lid/pump etc. that might add even more weight, or are those pretty unsubstantial in the whole scheme of things?
<<Not "unsubstantial" but will displace some water so....  But don't forget to figure the weight of the tank itself.>>
So around 5,000 lbs is the weight, and there would be 12 legs supporting this area, so that is 7,800 lbs capacity.
<<I highly recommend you NOT pursue this idea as outlined.>>
I would just like a 2nd opinion, because I'm not too clear on the shear strength of the particleboard!  I know you're not engineers either, but maybe this is setting off alarm bells, or am I just being overcautious?
<<Is good to be overcautious here...alarm bells ARE sounding...no, not an engineer, but wood working/remodeling is my avocation.  I have removed/replaced load-bearing walls in my home, as well as designed and built the stand for my own 375 gallon display (500 gallon system total).  I recommend you construct/frame your stand from "structural" materials such as dimensioned lumber and then face it with cabinet material/doors for the "look", if you desire.  If nothing else, consult a structural engineer about your idea/design...will be the best $100 you could spend right now.>>
Please let me know what you think
Thanks,
Patrick Ryan
Toronto, Ontario
<<Regards, EricR...Columbia, SC>>
Large Tank Stand Construction...No Particleboard Please! II - 03/30/06
Wow, great info, thanks Eric, good to know! Thanks for your help/advice!
Patrick Ryan
<<My pleasure Ryan, hope it proves useful.  Regards, EricR>>

Tank on the level? 03-21-06
Hi. I have owned a fish tank for over 7 years now, and about a year ago I moved it to my room. I was looking at the tank and realized I never checked to see if it was level. Now that I look at it the left side of the tank, [I can see] the water is a little bit higher. Is this a problem? It's been in my room like this for a year.
<Hello. Short answer: It depends on the size of the tank you're talking about, and the size of the differential. I haven't seen a longer tank yet that was perfectly level (the floors were not level. As long as it is on a planar surface, I would not be inclined to worry about it too much.
By the way, just a friendly reminder to please take the time to check your English before sending off the e-mail so we don't have to. Best regards, John.>
Please help

PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! - 03/22/2006
I have a tank in my bedroom. It's been in my room for a year, and I just noticed that it is unlevel.
<Are you sure? You wrote in about this same situation just the other day. It was on the Daily's also.>
On the left side of my tank the water level is about a half of a centimeter higher than the right side.
<As you've explained already.>
I was told that it is ok if your tank isn't perfect.
<Ah, yes! I remember the crew member explaining why he stated so as well.>
Is that true and will the water put to much pressure on the left side of my tank?
<Yes! 'Tis true to a certain extent. Depends much on, as you were told, how "off" it is, being set on a planar surface, Etc. You are fine. Please except the answers you get from our Crew. You've written in at least six times this week, with only three questions (possibly two). Every response you've gotten has confirmed the previous response. The only other thing that hasn't changed? You still don't correct your grammar, spelling, capitalization! We don't have the time for this. We HAVE TO correct these as we answer them for posting/archiving so others can read/understand the discussion. If you wish to send me yet another "hate mail" over this response (yes I saw your last) then so be it. What ever it takes, please stop abusing the valuable resource that is Wet Web Media and it's Crew.>
Oh yeah, it is on a stand made for aquariums.
<Well...at least it's not made for potato chips.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QueryCorrsRefPg.htm - Josh>

Re: PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! - 03/23/2006
Ok, I <I> am sorry. What is a planar surface?
<Simply a surface with zero curvature. You don't want to place your tank on a wavy surface.>
And im <I'm> not trying to be mean but where do you guys get your facts from?
<Facts about? Do you mean, are we making this stuff up or did we actually learn it somewhere? - Josh>   <<What a day! RMF>>

Re: PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! - 03/24/2006
Yeah, did you guys learn this somewhere?
<?>
Oh, My stand is flat, but at the very ends of the stand it curves instead of being straight down.
<You mean like rounded edges? You don't want any gaps between the bottom edge of your tank and the top surface of your stand.>
Should I <ARRGH!! That's it, I've just ripped all of my hair out!>worry?
<No.>
I mean this stand is meant for a fish tank.
<Good plan. - Josh>

Looking For An Oceanic Tank Stand - 03/15/2006
Hello, My name is Joey and I love your website.
<Thank you Joey.>
I wanted to know if you can direct me to a place or number to find a stand for an Oceanic tank for a 84x24.5 x 25 a 200 RRE BO.  Please help as soon as you can because I am moving and the shop that I go to all the time for some reason can't find a stand before the first of next month. This would mean a lot to me for your help and I Thank You for all your help that I have got from the site.
<Well Joey, the best I can think of is to try contacting Oceanic here  http://www.oceanicsystems.com/ . They should be able to offer some help.>
Thanks,
Joey Harper  
<You're welcome. - Josh>

Re: Looking For An Oceanic Tank Stand - 03/16/2006
Thank you very much.
<You're welcome.>
I have just one more question for you please, I want to set up the 200G on the second floor of a house that I'm moving to and the floor is all wood and when I walk around the second floor apartment it makes no sound and it feels pretty strong.
<It really depends on the construction of the house. I wouldn't put this on the second floor though. We're talking well over 2'000 lbs. here.>
Do you think it could fall through the house?
<A very real possibility.>
Do you think 200G is to heavy?
<Don't know for sure, too many factors.>
Please let me know and I thank You so much.
<You're welcome Joey. - Josh>

Set Up/Level Tank   3/15/06
I just checked how level my tank is since I first set it up almost three months ago. The bubble (on my level) is slightly outside the line. The measurement from the base of the glass tank (Not the stand) to the wall is 3 5/16" at the top it is a little more than 3". So in other words the top of the tank is a little more than a quarter of an inch closer to the wall than the base.
The tank has been there since the last week in December. It is on carpet which is on a first floor concrete slab. Given the task of re-leveling an established 1000 pound (90 gal rectangle. + rock + sand) tank what would be considered excessive and require the breakdown and re-leveling?  <Not bad enough to mess with.  Now if 1/4 of the bubble were outside the line I'd re-level the tank.  More important that there is no twisting of the tank.>
As always thanks for the help.  <James (Salty Dog)>
Diver

Stand for 125G acrylic tank  - 03/11/2006
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I've been reading up on DIY stands and seeing mention of 2x4 and 2x6 framing & cross bracing required.  The cabinet stands I'm seeing in a couple of LFS's appear to be made of 3/4" plywood sides, with a 3/4" plywood top to support the tank.
<Some of them, yes>
I've seen this type of construction on stands up to 24" deep (front to back) and 48-72" long, with no other bracing...is this adequate for a tank that could weigh nearly a ton?  
<Mmm, well... as a person posting "things" on an open forum (the Net)... no. Much safer to encourage folks to use more sturdy timbers, screw and/or bolt/nut together... using ply and such for fascias>
I'm planning to build a stand and would like to avoid losing cabinet space to center bracing & divider walls inside the cabinet, if I can. If one sheet is not enough, would two sheets of 3/4" plywood, or 1.5" total, be strong enough to support a 125G tank with only perimeter support?
Thanks,
Tom
<Not IMO Tom... Have you visited OzReef.org? Much good DIY info. there re aquarium matters... As you state, this is a lot of weight... and in areas where the ground shakes, or that such constructs might suffer lateral force otherwise... I'd go with bracing the stand in all dimensions... strongly. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium Stand   3/3/06
Hi Bob
  A friend who owns a welding shop is planning on building an aquarium stand for my 125 gallon six foot tank.
<Nice>
He is using 2 inch square tubing for the frame. The question he asked and I could not answer was: is it better to build it with metal tubing all around the base of the aquarium's foot print which touches the floor or build it with four or six legs?
<Mmm, better the latter... particularly in settings where the flooring is not level, planar or worse... differentially so... as in on wood supported by wood framing...>
I thought it might distribute the weight more not being on four or six legs but have it resting on two inch tubing all around the base of the tank. I thought it might be easier to level on four legs though.
<Mmm, not really... better (if necessary) to employ large shims under the longer, continuous supports... and to measure with the tank filled and empty...>
Any help would be greatly appreciated as all the DIY instructions I have found are for wooden stands. Thank you in advance. Leta
<Do see the excellent DIY site which is Ozreef.org for much valuable input here. Bob Fenner>

Stand Construction Question  - 1/30/2006
Good morning Crew!  Hope your weekend is going well.
<All over... but wait! I don't have a day job... every day's like a weekend day!>
I am in the process of building a new stand for my 200 GAL Oceanic glass tank.  The tank is 7' X 2' x 2' and was bought as a used setup including the stand (but is looks like it has been rode hard and put up wet!  :-)  )
<Can be dangerous...>
Anyway, on to the question.  Since it is a glass aquarium, I understand that it is mostly perimeter braced (i.e. normally just sitting on 2X4's around the edges and the bottom glass bowing slightly is not a major concern.
<Yes>
However, since it has 4 holes drilled in the bottom (which I will be plugging up and drilling the back panel for my overflows and returns) should I:
A.  Build the "standard" stand with only perimeter support like this:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/frame.jpg
B.  Build a stand with extra cross bracing for the tank to rest on like this:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/framewithxbrace.jpg
C.  Build a stand with the extra cross bracing (option B) and add 3/4" plywood on the top for the tank to rest on.
<C. is your best choice... or B., with a good/thicker piece of "Styrofoam" under the edge and floating bottom>
Your assistance (once again) will be much appreciated.
As always, your efforts in this hobby are OUTSTANDING and the level of concern/knowledge are truly appreciated.  Keep up the good work and know that countless lives (and probably marriages) have been saved/enriched by your efforts.
Tom (The Tool Man)
<As you know Tom... more support is better. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Wood finishing, plumber's tape for threaded connections, painted backgrounds, whew!
Hi Guys (a generic term that includes the female members of the crew ;o)
<Watch this...>
I have searched WWM & couldn't find a relevant answer - hopefully I've not missed!
<We'll see... or add to it>
Just a quickie re finishing the woodwork for my new 24" cube -
I will need some sort of finish on the veneered panels that I have now got for the new tanks cabinet and open topped hood but I am not sure what would be most suitable, I have been looking for some sort of polyurethane varnish type stuff but have so far drawn a blank (maybe its just called something else in the UK?).  The main area for concern will clearly be the hood woodwork as this will be the closest to the (salt) water & thus more chance of particles of finish (or some sort of reaction leading to leaching of nasties) entering the water column (clearly something to be avoided if at all possible (however I believe in planning for the worst - comes from working for the UK government I guess lol!!))
Any pointers to a suitable finish would be more than welcome.
<Polyurethanes are fine (durable, non-toxic once cured, attractive), though I am a bigger fan of Varathanes (as you speculate, perhaps a "Yank" (formerly colony) term... These come in different reflectivities (I like the less shiny), and are even more durable>
Would you be able to confirm my suspicion that PTFE (plumbers) tape will be fine for sealing my new closed loop system? From what I can gather this should be fine and nicely inert.
<Is... though I am a bigger fan (here we go again) of using 100% Silicone (the same material/el used for making glass aquariums... for thread to thread connections... makes a nice flexible joining, and allows for easy unthreading if needed later on... and "makes a seal" rather than allowing salt creep over time. Bob Fenner>
Ok just 1 other question ;o)
<Oh!>
I also need to paint the back (outside obviously) of the tank black to match the weir - I am planning to use enamel paint - Japblack I think
the brand is (do you see any problems here?)
<Am unfamiliar with this term>
- will I be OK just to go ahead and paint this or would I be better running some sandpaper or such
over the area to be painted to provide a "key" or rougher surface for the paint to adhere to?
<Mmm, I have used latex or water-based in-door wall paint here... sans scratching... to good effect...>
Sincere thanks as usual in anticipation
Cheers
  Chris

Drill one round hole in Oceanic bowfront aquarium stand  - 01/12/2006
I've searched for an exact answer to this question.  I have found counsel not to drill holes in the supports for an aquarium stand and counsel that it would probably be OK to drill round holes through a center dividing wall that is also a support in a stand, but not near the edge.
<Likely so... though will definitely void any warranty>
  My question concerns drilling through the side wall of the stand.
<Mmm, I would "beef up" the vertical supports (internally, with one or two by planks... screw into the existing...>
I have an Oceanic 72G bowfront aquarium with an Oceanic stand.  There is no room underneath the aquarium for my new Ecosystems refugium.  The Tidepool II sump takes up more than half the space and the refugium requires 36".  I can put the refugium on its own stand to the side of the aquarium.
<This will do... or above...>
I am using vinyl hose for the return from the refugium to the sump and would like to go the direct route - through the side of the Oceanic stand.  That would require drilling a hole about 2" in diameter.  It would go in the center of the side wall, about 10"-12" up from the floor.  Would this be safe?
<Likely so>
The alternative is a crooked route down, back, and around the stand, and then bent into the sump - all reducing GPH and unsightly, plus far more likely to get kinked or even dislodged from the sump.
Richard C. ROCKWELL
<Do add the other wood supports, drill for the through-put and don't worry. Bob Fenner>

Re: Drill one round hole in Oceanic bowfront aquarium stand  - 01/12/2006
Thanks very much. I shall add those internal wood supports.  On one of your pages, you say that one can never have enough space underneath the aquarium.
So true!
<Heeee! Or too large a hard drive, savings account...!>
That alone is a reason for buying an aquarium larger than 72G.  At the time, 72G seemed huge.
<As did candy bars... sigh... BobF>

300 gal tank stand  12/30/2005
Hi, Bob:
<Phil>
I’ve been reading the WWM site for info as I prepare to finally set up my 130 and 300 gal tanks as reef tanks.   They were in storage for 23 years until I bought a house and know I do not intend to move soon.
<I'll bet!>
I built an aquarium room in the single bay area of a three bay garage to get the aquariums on a concrete floor.  I have many questions, but will concentrate on my current area of concern.  They are both All Glass tanks.  The 130 has about ¼ inch space between the bottom of the tank and the bottom molding that I think can be resolved with ½ to 1 inch Styrofoam sheet,
<Yes, should be fine>
but the 300 has about 1 inch space between the bottom glass and the outside bottom edge.  I was thinking of filling this rectangle with 1 inch Styrofoam and then the whole tank set on a stand with 1 inch Styrofoam.  
<Mmm, likely a good idea... the "floating" bottom (this is what they're called in the industry) is fine, but the edge/frame is best situated on the foam>
I thought of using 4 x 6 beams, with the 6 inch in vertical under the tanks.  Do you think I could get a 4 foot opening under the 130 or 300 gal stand using this wood, as the sump will be used for both systems and is wider than both aquariums?
<Yes, as long as the rest of the structure is sound>
There is limited amount of space in this room because my wife asked me to reduce its size.  The sump is 41 x 46 x 30High.  The garage floor slopes ¼ inch every two feet in a north to south orientation and the 130 will be in this orientation, creating additional problems in building a level tank stand.
<Do shim the stand to being level...>
I have Googled DIY aquarium stands finding some info.
<Try Ozreef.org?>
I was going to use a plenum system for NNR in the 130, but my LFS recommends against this and recommends using live rock in both tanks and the sump, which I was going to do anyway.  
<Up to you... ultimately... not me or the LFS... But I would put a DSB in this sump... with or w/o a barrier/plenum>
I also plan to use a refugium for macroalgae and critter development and was told that I should get plenty
of critters in a system this size with the live rock that will be in place.  The stands are a critical step in the process.  Neither tank has
been filled with water since their purchase.  I am not in a hurry to make a mistake, but am so close to water in the tank that I can hardly
wait.  Please help with your suggestions/input any way possible.  Thank you.  Phil
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Acrylic Tank Support in ASCII? - 12/05/05
Hi Bob,
<<EricR here...Bob is off in a warm and sunny place keeping his diving skills finely honed...>>
I was researching what the web says about supporting an acrylic tank, and found your article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm. I am replacing a 20-yr old 65g (48x18x18) glass tank with acrylic. It is going on top of a wrought iron stand which has a horizontal support, 6 inches from the back. The tank is sitting on a plastic frame with center support 24 inches from end.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 0
+ +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 6"
+ +
+ +
+ +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 18"
Do I need plywood to go under the tank, or is the iron cross brace sufficient to support the almost center of the tank?
<<Plywood is advised here, the bottom will flex/bulge under the weight otherwise. Many acrylic tanks are made with thinner acrylic on the bottom than the sides as it is assumed it will be "fully" supported...and...manufacturers will not honor warranties if the tank is not properly supported.>>
Thanks.
Neil Frank
Raleigh, NC
<<Regards, EricR>>

Reinforcing floor joists for 150 gallon aquarium  12/2/05
Hi,<Hello Mike>
I have a 150 gallon FOWLR aquarium. I've noticed that when my 2 dogs run by the tank it shifts a little. I need to reinforce the floor joists to help support the additional weight. The tank is against an inside wall, across the floor joists.
What is the best way to reinforce the floor joists?  Can I just buy 2 floor joist stands and place a 4x4 post across the existing joists under the tank and use the jack stands to help support it? 
<I'd just double up on the joists, fasten them to the existing joist with glue and screws. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you for your help, Mike 
<You're welcome>

55 gallon leveling  11/24/05
Hey there,
I was wondering about how I should go about leveling my 55 gallon aquarium, the stand is already leveled, but the center of the tank sits about 1/8th of an inch high,
<Mmm, too much...>
leaving a gap my drivers license can slide into, I was wondering if I could use carpet padding to put under the tank to support it?
Would this be a good idea?
Thanks,
Jerome
<Is a good idea. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the Related FAQs linked above. Bob Fenner>

55 gallon leveling - II - 11/25/2005
Hi Bob,
<Actually, Sabrina here, in his stead, as he's out for a while.>
So do you think the carpet padding would be enough to stick between the tank and the tank stand, or do you think I should go with Styrofoam?
<I would go with the Styrofoam.>
If I am to go with Styrofoam, what thickness would you recommend me getting? Thinnest I can seem to find at a reasonable price is 1/2".  
<This would be fine.>
Thanks,  Jerome
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

AGA pine stand and refugium 10/25/05
Hello there,
<Howdy>
Thank you for all the great info I have found on your site. I have a few questions regarding a 90 gallon AGA pre -drilled and AGA 48" x 18" pine stand.  The door openings on the pine stand are too small to fit a nice sized refugium in.
<May want to locate to the side, above...>
If I were to remove the center brace, install a refugium then replace the brace, would I be asking for trouble in the future?
<Mmm, not if done well>
What would be better to use, glass, acrylic, or Rubbermaid?
<Define better... overall, the acrylic is best IMO/E... as it allows you to see inside (good for manipulation), cut and fit plumbing easily, doesn't break as easily as glass... and if important, is a good/better thermal insulator> 
I can purchase an acrylic refugium which would be easiest, I can make a 30 gallon glass refugium. I have no clue on how to use Rubbermaid containers, could you elaborate more on this?
<Mmm, is hinted at in places... re sumps, refugium designs on WWM. Would be nice to have spec.s, graphics re though. Cheers, Bob Fenner> 

Place Foam under Acrylic tank? DIY Stand Question - 10/23/05
Hiya Ladies and Gents!
Before I get to my question, I must say again how right you are and I shouldn't have even bought a 13 gallon marine aquarium. Living in a smaller Japanese house, I wasn't sure how it would fit, but now it is the focal point of the house! While I've had great success with it thus far, it would have been surprisingly cheaper to 'go large' but I couldn't understand the reasoning back then. Now I see clearly. 
I've learned a lot about marine aquariums in a short time. 3-5 hours of nightly 'net' reading and a front row seat in front of the tank. Yes, it's possible to be successful. No, I wouldn't suggest it to a beginner.
Ok, to the first question. I upgraded to a 66 gallon acrylic tank today.  Going to make my own stand (a few years and lots of tools in the hobby to help me out). The LFS told me NOT to use a foam mat under an acrylic tank as it will eventually begin to chemically react and may 'glue' it self to it after a few years. Is this true? Or is there another form of 'forgiving material' to use?
Next question is (if I can't use foam), what kind of finish am I able to use for the stand top? A lacquer? Polyurethane finish? Bare wood (hmmm unprotected wood and water = bad idea me thinks) Will these eventually have chemical reactions to the acrylic? Thank you again for the priceless resource! 
<Thank you for the kind words. Dana, I've always used Styrofoam sheeting to place under my tank. Works well and does not stick to the acrylic. As for finish, polyurethane is your best bet with no negative effects. James (Salty Dog)> 

Support for a 55 gal tank 10/7/05
Hello,
My son wants to set up a 55 gallon fresh water tank on the second floor of our home. I have concerns regarding the weight of a tank this size. The tank would be set up on a standard Formica counter top over Kraftmaid cabinets. The
cabinet is upstairs in a newer home (built in 1995) and the room has a 3/4" oak floor. Am I being overly cautious or do I have reasons to be concerned. 
Thanks for any assistance, Renee 
<Good to be concerned, but should be fine... likely the counter top has a spread-out support underneath (I'd check), and strong-enough supports under the floor boards... I would contact the Kraftmaid folks re whether they have concerns here... some six hundred pounds of weight of about four square feet base. Bob Fenner> 

Aquarium stand question  9/26/05
Hey guys I don't know if you remember me but you helped me out a lot in setting up my 1500 gallon reef tank 3 years ago. (sorry I never got you any pics will send them right away) My parents are moving to New York and I am taking the 75 reef that they had in their living room. I'm moving it from an all glass 75 to a modified SeaClear system 2 (replaced bio filter with refugium its cool) and the tank is going to be on a dresser (the dresser has had this tank on it before and more than supports the weight) the concern is the dresser is on carpet and wobbles a bit with just the weight of the empty tank on it. Will this problem correct itself with the weight of the tank and rock or become worse like I have a feeling it will?
<Mmm, doubtful>
Also would a piece of 1 inch plywood maybe 4 inches wider than the base of the dresser correct this issue? Thanks for your help you guys are great!
<I would fill it otherwise empty of gravel, gear and see how steady, stable (and level, planar) this tank is... I suspect it will solidly settle in with the weight of the water. Bob Fenner>

Tank Stand  9/26/05
Hey guys I don't know if you remember me but you helped me out a lot in setting up my 1,500 gallon reef tank 3 years ago. (Sorry I never got you any pics will send them right away!) My parents are moving to New York and I am taking the 75 reef that they had in their living room. I’m moving it from an All-glass 75 to a modified sea clear system 2 (replaced bio filter with refugium its cool) and the tank is going to be on a dresser (the dresser has had this tank on it before and more than supports the weight).  The concern is the dresser is on carpet and wobbles a bit with just the weight of the empty tank on it. Will this problem self-correct with the weight of the tank and rock or become worse like I have a feeling it will? Also would a piece of 1 inch plywood maybe 4 inches wider than the base of the dresser correct this issue? Thanks for your help you guys are great!
<I like the idea of a piece of plywood under the stand, level it, then give it a test fill to see if it stays level or requires some shimming.  Wobbles scare me, it might correct itself with the weight but I would sleep better knowing it is level and sturdy.  We look forward to some pics of the 1,500 gallon reef; I'm getting jealous just thinking about it. -Gage>

Tank stand construction questions  9/20/05
Bob,
<Greg>
First, your website is great!  I have gotten tons of great info over the past few years. thanks.
<Welcome>
I have 2 (unrelated) stand construction questions.
1.) I recently moved my 120g reef Oceanic reef tank.  In the rush of moving/setting it back up the tank stand did not get perfectly level.  
<Mmmm, "perfectly?"... oh, I see below>
There are several places where a sheet or two of paper would fit between the tank and the stand, after 8 weeks it still hasn't settled in.  To fix this right, it seems I would have to take the tank down and fix level the stand - is this worth doing?  Is there any other recommended fix?
<Mmm, you might get by here by "cheating" a bit with placing some freshwater under the low spots... having the hopefully wood stand swell some>
2.) I need to construct a stand for a 225g acrylic reef tank, 60 X 24 X 36 (my guess is 3000lbs?).
<A bit less likely... a few hundred pounds shy>
  I have a 48in, 55g tank I would like to use as the sump.  To make access easy underneath, would 2X6 be sufficient to support the 60in span for this tank?
<Mmm, no... I would go with four by... carriage bolt together...>
  If not all 60in, what would be the max. spanning distance you would recommend for a 2X6 for this tank?
thanks.
Greg
<Would be nice to be able to "angle in" the four foot long 55... and can likely be done with a bit of planning, making a six legged stand... with the one center front middle upright staggered off to one side a bit... I would make these four-bys as well... Bob Fenner>

Stand Construction Question 8/19/05
Hi All, I've been in this tremendous hobby for over 5 yrs now and am more than hooked you could say. I have 2 55g tanks and some smaller 10g tanks also. I have gotten the go ahead for a 300 g tank in the lounge room and am putting it in the corner of the room. It will be a pentagon shape. <Congrats!>
I think it will be 4'x4'x18"x18" and 3'10" across the front and 26" high, with a sump underneath of what size I'm not sure yet. It depends on the room I have as much as possible. <Sounds great!>
My question is: are there any particular plans for a stand this size? I have shored up the floor after asking an engineer and am confident of building it myself either out of wood or steel. Which do you think is easiest and best? <Glad to hear that you have shored up the floor.  Wood and steel are both great materials for building a stand, but each has some advantages and disadvantages.  Most folks don't consider welding the steel to be a Do It Yourself project and it can rust.  It is also harder to add an attractive facade to.  Wood is easier to work with, will never rust and is easy to modify, but it can warp and/or rot.  Given the unusual shape of your tank and the unusual angles, it may not be much harder to go with steel.  If you do choose steel, I recommend having it powder coated, or if this service is not available in your area, painted with a high quality epoxy paint.  As for plans, you won't find them specifically for this unusual tank, but you may find some general tips with a google search.>
I am getting the tank builder to make the tank in my lounge room and then it will be just a case of lifting it up onto the stand, with a lot of help from some friends I hope.  Do I need to have a center piece underneath to hold the middle up because if so, I will lose room for my sump?  <Probably not.  Most tanks are designed to be supported only around the perimeter to avoid pressure points on the bottom pane.  Your tank builder should be able to advise you on this and should use think enough glass to be self supporting.>
Thanks very much for your wonderful and helpful site I read it everyday. Yours Scotty Tasmania Australia <Glad you have benefited!  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Iron stand footprint vs. tanks 8/15/05
Bob - I have an iron stand that is designed for supporting 2 125 g tanks - 72X18".  I have two 75 gallon tanks - 48X18".  I plan on placing 3/4" plywood/pressed board between the stand frame and tanks.  Is this a concern with the difference in length between the small tank and longer stand?  Is there a way to compensate?  Thanks in advance  Scott
<Mmm, have seen metal stands where this would not be a problem, and ones where it definitely would... are there supports only at the four corners of this stand? If so, I'm given to suggest NOT using it with shorter tanks. There is likely a possibility of strengthening the unit however (in any case) with welding or drilling and adding metal to make the areas where the tanks seat more immobile... along with the wood (which I'd waterproof) being placed on top in turn. I would bring the stand down to a weld-shop for their inspection... mention the weight (about ten pounds per gallon finished) of the tanks to be placed on it... ask the folks there what they would do. Bob Fenner>

Using large buffet as aquarium stand 8/11/05
I am planning on buying a 90 gallon tall tank (36x18x31) or a 70 gallon (36x18x25) and a custom refugium (15x18x31 or 15x18x25) that would sit side-by-side on the same stand.  Would the refugium need to be higher in order to flow back into the tank without a pump?
<Yes>
  Maybe it can be done at this height if the tank is drilled?
<Water seeks its own level...>
Anyway, my main question:  The "stand" I am planning on using is an antique buffet.  It is "strong like bull", but I am not sure it could handle the weight of the tanks.  
<Mmm, the tanks et al. weigh about ten pounds per gallon filled up... I would at least try placing this much weight on the piece of furniture... to try it out...>
Considering the different weights on each end of the stand, would this set up be unstable?
<Only way to tell is to try...>
Would it be better to get a tank  with a 48" length (centered on the buffet) and forget using the refugium? How do I determine whether this piece of furniture can hold these aquariums?
<Experiment... not with the tanks, but equivalent weight>
Do the supports need to be a certain distance apart--or certain thickness?
<Likely you will want to place some four by pieces of wood every two feet... under the buffet, to support... on the principal members>
I would really rather not get another stand if I don't have to.   It will be on carpet on top of slab foundation, and the legs are large and flat.
If I decide on the 90 gal, there will be about 180 lbs of LR and 110lbs of substrate.  If I go with the 70, it would include 130 lbs of LR and 110lbs of substrate.
<And the water at about 8.2 pounds per gallon... about ten pounds per gallon...>
The refugium would hold an extra 30-40 lbs of live rock and 20 lbs of substrate.  The main tank is to be a coral tank and the refugium is to serve as a typical refugium (algae, copepods, shrimp) and a seahorse tank (I am planning to use a breeder box in the refugium to further protect some of the shrimp and pods from the seahorses).
Thanks for your time,
Angela
<Do want to mention that you consider the probable damage to this piece... from moisture, spills... a good, strong stand can be made for not much money... see Ozreef.org for DIY plans here... IMO, leave the buffet for future "Antiques Roadshow" programs. Bob Fenner>

Tank not level 8/9/05
Hi,
<Hello Tom>
I have a 38 gallon glass tank sitting on a commercially purchased oak stand.  The stand is on a carpeted floor.  The house was built in 1992.
The tank has been in use for maybe 7 years now. Today, for some reason, I noticed that the tank is not level. It is 36 inches wide, and the water level appears to be 1/4 to 3/8 inches higher at on end than at the other.
<Yikes... too much>
I can't say whether it has been out of level like this for 7 years and I never noticed, or whether it just went out of level in the last 2 weeks while I was on vacation.  If it just went out of level, the house must be settling or something.
My question: is this bad enough that I have to fix it, or can I just watch it carefully to be sure it doesn't get worse?
Thanks,
Tom
<If this were my glass tank I would drain it down. shim the base of the stand... Bob Fenner>