Questions About DIY Tank Stand – 11/30/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Hello Brian>>
Please allow me to start off by thanking you for saving me much grief in my saltwater endeavors. I find this hobby to be at once delightfully confounding, and sublimely rewarding, and having a resource such as WWM as close as my fingertips helps immeasurably.
<<We are all pleased to be of service>>
Now, on to my query. I have recently decided to build what, in my opinion, could be considered a furniture quality aquarium stand for my 37 gallon acrylic flat-back hexagon reef tank.
<<Neat! Am a bit of a woodworker myself>>
I have tried to err on the side of caution, and build with the idea that this will be a functional piece of furniture, as well as a safe, level, and planar stand for my reef and its inhabitants.
<<As it should be>>
As stated earlier, I currently have a 37 gallon acrylic which is 13 inches wide, 36 inches long, and 18 inches deep. I have designed this stand with the intention of being able to upgrade to either a 55 gallon glass tank, or a custom made acrylic tank in the future.
<<Ah, an eye for the future…smart move>>
My current design is for a stand 6 feet in length, 18 and one half inches wide and 30 inches tall. I have built the frame out of standard 2x4 lumber from the local Lowes. For the top and bottom frames, I constructed 2x4 rectangles of the desired dimensions, the 2x4s placed "on edge", rather than flat, with the ends butt jointed.
<<Mmm…do use a good waterproof glue at the joints along with your mechanical fasteners (a “Polyurethane” would be best), and maybe consider adding some galvanized “hurricane” braces at the inside corners like those used for deck/house construction, if possible. You may fine you will need to “inlay” the braces to allow for smooth fitting of the external skin panels…depending on the type used and your design. Also…I would “double-up” the 2x4s on the long dimensions, especially in anticipation of a larger tank. Simply “sister” a second 2x4 to the first with glue and screws…will actually be stronger/deflect less than if you had used 4-by lumber>>
A horizontal cross member, at 15 and one half inch length of 2x4, has been placed every one foot, along the entire length of the frames.
<<Excellent…this acrylic tank will need “full” support over the entire bottom of the tank>>
For the vertical supports at each corner, I used 30 inch lengths of 4x4 lumber, notching out the very top of each vertical post, to accept the top and bottom frames flush at each corner.
<<Very good>>
I also placed a vertical support centered at 36 inches horizontally in both the front and back of the stand.
<<Ah…okay, good>>
As an added layer of security, I have diagonally braced each of the corner posts, using a piece of 2x4 cut on a 45 degree angle attached to both the post and the top and bottom frames.
<<I see… Can’t hurt, though attachment to both the top and bottom frames would likely have been sufficient. I have built a few tank stands myself, including the one my current 375g reef sits upon…a bit of over-engineering is not a bad thing>>
The surface for tank stand is a 1 inch thick piece of oak plywood 72 and one half inches long, by 18 and one half inches wide, secured to the rest of the frame using a combination of wood screws, and glue.
<<Holy-cow, mate…you’re gonna need a few friends to move this tank stand>>
I plan on placing the finished cabinet on a 3/4 inch piece of solid oak plywood which will be one half inch larger than the base of the cabinet, for even distribution of weight. All joints and surfaces were made square and planar using a handheld power planer. (A must have for even an amateur woodworker!)
<<Hee-hee! I don’t know about “a must”…but definitely a neat/handy gadget!>>
I am quite certain that this stand is engineered well enough to support the weight of the 37 gallon for many, many years to come.
<<Okay>>
My concern is for future upgrade possibilities. Do you feel that this stand, as described, will be able to support the possible weight of say, a 55 gallon, with a very liberal weight estimate of 700 pounds, or even a 75 gallon?
<<Double-up the frame members on the long dimensions as earlier suggested and I think you’ll be fine/have better piece of mind>>
I apologize for the length of my query.
<<No worries>>
I have tried, to the best of my abilities to be as clear and concise and possible.
<<This is greatly appreciated>>
I eagerly await your response/feedback.
<<On its way…>>
With best wishes for a safe and happy holiday season,
Brian
<<And to you in kind. Eric Russell>>

Question Concerning DIY Tank Stand  11/29/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
Please allow me to start off by thanking you for saving me much grief in my saltwater endeavors. I find this hobby to be at once delightfully confounding, and sublimely rewarding, and having a resource such as WWM as close as my fingertips helps immeasurably.
<Much appreciated Brian, this is one uniquely amazing hobby.>
Now, on to my query. I have recently decided to build what, in my opinion, could be considered a furniture quality aquarium stand for my 37 gallon acrylic flat-back hexagon reef tank. I have tried to err on the side of caution, and build with the idea that this will be a functional piece of furniture, as well as a safe, level, and planar stand for my reef and it's inhabitants.
<Sounds nice.>
As stated earlier, I currently have a 37 gallon acrylic which is 13 inches wide, 36 inches long, and 18 inches deep. I have designed this stand with the intention of being able to upgrade to either a 55 gallon glass tank, or a custom made acrylic tank in the future. My current design is for a stand 6 feet in length, 18 and one half inches wide, and 30 inches tall. I have built the frame out of standard 2x4 lumber from the local Lowes. For the top and bottom frames, I constructed 2x4 rectangles of the desired dimensions, the 2x4s placed "on edge", rather than flat, with the ends butt jointed. A horizontal cross member, a 15 and one half inch length of 2x4, has been placed every one foot, along the entire length of the frames. For the vertical supports at each corner, I used 30 inch lengths of 4x4 lumber, notching out the very top of each vertical post, to accept the top and bottom frames flush at each corner. I also place a vertical support centered at 36 inches horizontally in both the front and back of the stand. As an added layer of security, I have diagonally braced each of the corner posts, using a piece of 2x4 cut on a 45 degree angle attached to both the post and the top and bottom frames. I plan on placing the finished cabinet on a 3/4 inch piece of solid oak plywood which will be one half inch larger than the base of the cabinet, for even distribution of weight. All joints and surfaces were made square and planar using a handheld power planer. (A must have for even an amateur woodworker!)
<Must admit I have yet to get one!>
I am quite certain that this stand is engineered well enough to support the weight of the 37 gallon for many, many years to come. My concern is for future upgrade possibilities. Do you feel that this stand, as described, will be able to support the possible weight of say, a 55 gallon, with a very liberal weight estimate of 700 pounds, or even a 75 gallon?
<No doubt it could hold an even larger tank. It sounds like you have a very sound design. Most commercially available stands are under built compared to your design. Just be sure that you also have plywood on the top of the stand. An acrylic aquarium must be supported over the entire bottom, not just the perimeter as with glass tanks.>
I apologize for the length of my query. I have tried, to the best of my abilities to be as clear and concise and possible. I eagerly await your response/feedback.
With best wishes for a safe and happy holiday season,
Brian
<Thank you, again much appreciated. You have a solid design that will likely outlast the tank itself. Have fun building, and watch those fingers (I should have bought that planer). Scott V.>

75 gal. fish tank... Stand, canopy const. Qs   
I am in the process of starting up a 75 gal tank. and am going to build the stand and canopy myself.
<A good project>
I found a site where a guy built his and gave the step by step, but am wondering if four 4x4's for the legs will strong enough to support it.
<Oh yes... most commercial stands for this sized system are of 2 bys...>
also if i should only use one 2x4 on each side of the front and back of stand for middle support.
<Can be done>
also I need to find a good lighting fixture for the canopy. a website i was going to purchase one from said to make sure there is enough air flow for the light so it does not overheat but how do i know if there is enough air flow for the light, or do i install it and wait for it to explode if it does get to hot. and i also need to know what type to buy as well because i want to do a reef tank, so if you could give me some recommendations i would appreciate it thank you.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
The second tray down... Bob Fenner>

Stand, design, const.    6/5/07
Dear WWM Crew
<Joey>
Hello again guys and gals love the site and find myself spending more and more time on it everyday keep up the excellent work. Quick update I wrote you once earlier with an Oscar problem my dear buddy Lorikai had a chunk missing from his mouth and has been healing quite nicely without much intervention other than weekly partial water changes as you suggested you guys rock. I did however notice what possibly caused the injury is that sometimes when feeding the Oscar feels the need to violently gulp his food and I think the water level was to high and a piece of food could of been up against the plastic edge and caused his laceration. problem solved I now keep the water level a good half inch below this edge now.
<Good move>
The reason I am writing today is I am moving forward with my aquarium and would like some advice. I have recently acquired a 90 gallon for my Oscar and Pacu. Which in the future I plan to turn into a SW tank once I have acquired and even larger tank for my boys. That being said now I need a place to put the bloody thing. I have scoured some LFS and online stores to find nothing really to my liking in a stand. They all seem to be either overpriced, poor quality, or just plain ugly and sometimes all of the above. So I am now going down the DIY path because I know I can make something way better. I have found this site just recently and thought it was pretty amazing http://www.fishandtips.com/index.php and here is also a link to the stand I am planning to build http://www.fishandtips.com/step1/step1.php?Step1=&Step2=&Step3=&add1=& ;Key=&Length=48&Width=18&Height=25&StandHeight=30&add1=checked& amp;Step1=checked&Step2=checked&Step3=checked
<Very nice plans>
Sorry its such a long link. I was wondering what your thoughts are on this build from what I can see it looks pretty solid and have thought about putting 2 more 4"x4"x11" poles in one on the top and one on the bottom although not sure if entirely necessary or not.
<I would add these... for greater stability, strength against lateral movement>
I am also glad I looked over some info on your site because this site recommended pressure treated lumber to avoid rotting and I knew pressure treated wood was poisonous but the thought never crossed my mind about seeping into my system.
<I would coat this... Varathane, Urethane...>
So I will be using an untreated wood hopefully some nice kiln dried oak. I am thinking about using a faux marble wallpaper
<Oh!>
I have found online and coating that with a high gloss polyurethane. Is this feasible and if so do I need to do anything else as far as water proofing the untreated wood or would the polyurethane cover it I am unsure of this. Thanks in advance and once again you guys rule.
Yours Truly,
> Joey
<The biggest change I would make to these plans would be to use countersinking and carriage bolts, nuts and washers in the place of the specified wood screws. Bob Fenner>

Using Treated Wood For Aquarium Structures - 02/04/07
Dearest Bob and Friends,
<<Greetings>>
Wishing good health to all; I have been on a very strict diet for 3 weeks.. argh!)
<<I hate diets...>>
I have finished building a very strong stand for a new 90-gal I will be setting up.
<<Cool!>>
I am quite sure that I made a mistake in my wood selection.
<<Oh?>>
I used 5x5 treated wood.  Afterwards I found out that treated wood has a poison biocide stain (green) on it.
<<Mmm, indeed...is why it is called "treated."  The use of arsenic (chromated copper arsenate) was banned for residential use in 2004, the treated wood available to homeowners (hobbyists) today contains either alkaline copper quat or copper azole.  While much less toxic to us than the arsenic based treatment, you'll notice the common ingredient is copper...sometimes as high as 96%.  Obviously you don't want this leaching in to your tank>>
This is a problem right?
<<It can be yes...and is why I chose to not use treated lumber when building my in-wall reef display>>
Can I simply varnish over?
<<I don't recommend this...it just won't last in this environment, and the wood is still likely too "wet" anyway.  Your best option is to use a penetrating oil stain to seal the wood that can easily be renewed as needed>>
Another problem is that the wood I used was not 100% dry when I got it.
<<Ah, yes...treated and kiln-dried wood is sometimes available, but more often than not the wood at the home centers (Lowe's/HD) is not "dried" and is only hours/days old after the treatment process>>
Now it seems to have finished drying since it was built and now the areas where the tank sits on the stand is no longer planar.
<<Not unusual...treated wood is usually meant for "rough" construction and is not the best "cuts"...couple that with the extremely high moisture content and bowing/twisting is inevitable.  Another reason for using untreated and kiln-dried wood>>
Off by 1/8 inch at some places.  I tried to level off using a hand sander and files but I think I made it worse.
<<You're best option here is to start over with better wood I think>>
The wood has also cracked in some areas but I doubt that is of any worry.
<<Mmm, I don't agree...there will be an awful lot of weight on this stand>>
I honestly think my stand could hold a train car. (5x5 wood, secured using 7 inch 3/8 wood screws, and wood glue, structure is all boxed in)
<<Ah...but is all "moot" if it is not level and planar>>
At this point I'm thinking that I could simply place a 1/4 inch thick rubber strip under the perimeter (this is a perimeter trim tank) of the tank to compensate for my non-planar mess!
<<Mmm, I don't think this is a good solution here>>
I think I remember reading your advice against this but I think at this point I'm ready to accept a non-ideal solution.
<<Are you ready to accept having the tank burst?>>
I think the odds of me bringing this planar using hand tools is slim.
<<Likely, yes>>
It is not as easy and is actually quite easy to make worse.
<<Indeed...and reason enough to chalk this up as a "learning experience" and just start over>>
Thank you very much for your time.
<<Happy to share.  EricR>>
Tristan

Tank stand construction questions  9/20/05
Bob,
<Greg>
First, your website is great!  I have gotten tons of great info over the past few years. thanks.
<Welcome>
I have 2 (unrelated) stand construction questions.
1.) I recently moved my 120g reef Oceanic reef tank.  In the rush of moving/setting it back up the tank stand did not get perfectly level.  
<Mmmm, "perfectly?"... oh, I see below>
There are several places where a sheet or two of paper would fit between the tank and the stand, after 8 weeks it still hasn't settled in.  To fix this right, it seems I would have to take the tank down and fix level the stand - is this worth doing?  Is there any other recommended fix?
<Mmm, you might get by here by "cheating" a bit with placing some freshwater under the low spots... having the hopefully wood stand swell some>
2.) I need to construct a stand for a 225g acrylic reef tank, 60 X 24 X 36 (my guess is 3000lbs?).
<A bit less likely... a few hundred pounds shy>
  I have a 48in, 55g tank I would like to use as the sump.  To make access easy underneath, would 2X6 be sufficient to support the 60in span for this tank?
<Mmm, no... I would go with four by... carriage bolt together...>
  If not all 60in, what would be the max. spanning distance you would recommend for a 2X6 for this tank?
thanks.
Greg
<Would be nice to be able to "angle in" the four foot long 55... and can likely be done with a bit of planning, making a six legged stand... with the one center front middle upright staggered off to one side a bit... I would make these four-bys as well... Bob Fenner>

Stand Construction Question 8/19/05
Hi All, I've been in this tremendous hobby for over 5 yrs now and am more than hooked you could say. I have 2 55g tanks and some smaller 10g tanks also. I have gotten the go ahead for a 300 g tank in the lounge room and am putting it in the corner of the room. It will be a pentagon shape. <Congrats!>
I think it will be 4'x4'x18"x18" and 3'10" across the front and 26" high, with a sump underneath of what size I'm not sure yet. It depends on the room I have as much as possible. <Sounds great!>
My question is: are there any particular plans for a stand this size? I have shored up the floor after asking an engineer and am confident of building it myself either out of wood or steel. Which do you think is easiest and best? <Glad to hear that you have shored up the floor.  Wood and steel are both great materials for building a stand, but each has some advantages and disadvantages.  Most folks don't consider welding the steel to be a Do It Yourself project and it can rust.  It is also harder to add an attractive facade to.  Wood is easier to work with, will never rust and is easy to modify, but it can warp and/or rot.  Given the unusual shape of your tank and the unusual angles, it may not be much harder to go with steel.  If you do choose steel, I recommend having it powder coated, or if this service is not available in your area, painted with a high quality epoxy paint.  As for plans, you won't find them specifically for this unusual tank, but you may find some general tips with a google search.>
I am getting the tank builder to make the tank in my lounge room and then it will be just a case of lifting it up onto the stand, with a lot of help from some friends I hope.  Do I need to have a center piece underneath to hold the middle up because if so, I will lose room for my sump?  <Probably not.  Most tanks are designed to be supported only around the perimeter to avoid pressure points on the bottom pane.  Your tank builder should be able to advise you on this and should use think enough glass to be self supporting.>
Thanks very much for your wonderful and helpful site I read it everyday. Yours Scotty Tasmania Australia <Glad you have benefited!  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Place Foam under Acrylic tank? DIY Stand Question - 10/23/05
Hiya Ladies and Gents!
Before I get to my question, I must say again how right you are and I shouldn't have even bought a 13 gallon marine aquarium. Living in a smaller Japanese house, I wasn't sure how it would fit, but now it is the focal point of the house! While I've had great success with it thus far, it would have been surprisingly cheaper to 'go large' but I couldn't understand the reasoning back then. Now I see clearly. 
I've learned a lot about marine aquariums in a short time. 3-5 hours of nightly 'net' reading and a front row seat in front of the tank. Yes, it's possible to be successful. No, I wouldn't suggest it to a beginner.
Ok, to the first question. I upgraded to a 66 gallon acrylic tank today.  Going to make my own stand (a few years and lots of tools in the hobby to help me out). The LFS told me NOT to use a foam mat under an acrylic tank as it will eventually begin to chemically react and may 'glue' it self to it after a few years. Is this true? Or is there another form of 'forgiving material' to use?
Next question is (if I can't use foam), what kind of finish am I able to use for the stand top? A lacquer? Polyurethane finish? Bare wood (hmmm unprotected wood and water = bad idea me thinks) Will these eventually have chemical reactions to the acrylic? Thank you again for the priceless resource! 
<Thank you for the kind words. Dana, I've always used Styrofoam sheeting to place under my tank. Works well and does not stick to the acrylic. As for finish, polyurethane is your best bet with no negative effects. James (Salty Dog)> 

Stand for 125G acrylic tank  - 03/11/2006
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I've been reading up on DIY stands and seeing mention of 2x4 and 2x6 framing & cross bracing required.  The cabinet stands I'm seeing in a couple of LFS's appear to be made of 3/4" plywood sides, with a 3/4" plywood top to support the tank.
<Some of them, yes>
I've seen this type of construction on stands up to 24" deep (front to back) and 48-72" long, with no other bracing...is this adequate for a tank that could weigh nearly a ton?  
<Mmm, well... as a person posting "things" on an open forum (the Net)... no. Much safer to encourage folks to use more sturdy timbers, screw and/or bolt/nut together... using ply and such for fascias>
I'm planning to build a stand and would like to avoid losing cabinet space to center bracing & divider walls inside the cabinet, if I can. If one sheet is not enough, would two sheets of 3/4" plywood, or 1.5" total, be strong enough to support a 125G tank with only perimeter support?
Thanks,
Tom
<Not IMO Tom... Have you visited OzReef.org? Much good DIY info. there re aquarium matters... As you state, this is a lot of weight... and in areas where the ground shakes, or that such constructs might suffer lateral force otherwise... I'd go with bracing the stand in all dimensions... strongly. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium Stand   3/3/06
Hi Bob
  A friend who owns a welding shop is planning on building an aquarium stand for my 125 gallon six foot tank.
<Nice>
He is using 2 inch square tubing for the frame. The question he asked and I could not answer was: is it better to build it with metal tubing all around the base of the aquarium's foot print which touches the floor or build it with four or six legs?
<Mmm, better the latter... particularly in settings where the flooring is not level, planar or worse... differentially so... as in on wood supported by wood framing...>
I thought it might distribute the weight more not being on four or six legs but have it resting on two inch tubing all around the base of the tank. I thought it might be easier to level on four legs though.
<Mmm, not really... better (if necessary) to employ large shims under the longer, continuous supports... and to measure with the tank filled and empty...>
Any help would be greatly appreciated as all the DIY instructions I have found are for wooden stands. Thank you in advance. Leta
<Do see the excellent DIY site which is Ozreef.org for much valuable input here. Bob Fenner>

Stand Construction Question  - 1/30/2006
Good morning Crew!  Hope your weekend is going well.
<All over... but wait! I don't have a day job... every day's like a weekend day!>
I am in the process of building a new stand for my 200 GAL Oceanic glass tank.  The tank is 7' X 2' x 2' and was bought as a used setup including the stand (but is looks like it has been rode hard and put up wet!  :-)  )
<Can be dangerous...>
Anyway, on to the question.  Since it is a glass aquarium, I understand that it is mostly perimeter braced (i.e. normally just sitting on 2X4's around the edges and the bottom glass bowing slightly is not a major concern.
<Yes>
However, since it has 4 holes drilled in the bottom (which I will be plugging up and drilling the back panel for my overflows and returns) should I:
A.  Build the "standard" stand with only perimeter support like this:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/frame.jpg
B.  Build a stand with extra cross bracing for the tank to rest on like this:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y195/navajo001/framewithxbrace.jpg
C.  Build a stand with the extra cross bracing (option B) and add 3/4" plywood on the top for the tank to rest on.
<C. is your best choice... or B., with a good/thicker piece of "Styrofoam" under the edge and floating bottom>
Your assistance (once again) will be much appreciated.
As always, your efforts in this hobby are OUTSTANDING and the level of concern/knowledge are truly appreciated.  Keep up the good work and know that countless lives (and probably marriages) have been saved/enriched by your efforts.
Tom (The Tool Man)
<As you know Tom... more support is better. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Large Tank Stand Construction...No Particleboard Please! - 03/30/06
Hi, I searched your archived questions, but can't seem to find one about this specifically...
<<Ok>>
I am planning on constructing a support base for a rather large Fish Tank (approx 350-500 gal) and have seen photos where they have
apparently built the stand out of cabinets, but can't exactly tell
whether or not they are false cabinets with metal bracing inside or not.  My question is: if I construct the base from cabinets which are 5/8" particleboard frames, which are installed on those black plastic European-style leveling legs (each has a weight capacity of 650 lbs), and have a Granite countertop installed on top of these cabinets, do you think that the total weight would be able to be supported by these cabinets?
<<Mmm, no...I don't recommend particleboard as a "weight bearing" structural support.  Aside from its low shear strength (as compared to dimensioned lumber/structural beams), any amount of moisture will greatly compromise it.  As for the "leveling legs", they may be able to support the weight but the particle board won't be able to support them.>>
I am assuming that at 8.5lbs/gal that I'm looking at most at 4,250 lbs + about 800 lbs for the granite, but should I also be considering plants/fish/coral/rocks/lid/pump etc. that might add even more weight, or are those pretty unsubstantial in the whole scheme of things?
<<Not "unsubstantial" but will displace some water so....  But don't forget to figure the weight of the tank itself.>>
So around 5,000 lbs is the weight, and there would be 12 legs supporting this area, so that is 7,800 lbs capacity.
<<I highly recommend you NOT pursue this idea as outlined.>>
I would just like a 2nd opinion, because I'm not too clear on the shear strength of the particleboard!  I know you're not engineers either, but maybe this is setting off alarm bells, or am I just being overcautious?
<<Is good to be overcautious here...alarm bells ARE sounding...no, not an engineer, but wood working/remodeling is my avocation.  I have removed/replaced load-bearing walls in my home, as well as designed and built the stand for my own 375 gallon display (500 gallon system total).  I recommend you construct/frame your stand from "structural" materials such as dimensioned lumber and then face it with cabinet material/doors for the "look", if you desire.  If nothing else, consult a structural engineer about your idea/design...will be the best $100 you could spend right now.>>
Please let me know what you think
Thanks,
Patrick Ryan
Toronto, Ontario
<<Regards, EricR...Columbia, SC>>
Large Tank Stand Construction...No Particleboard Please! II - 03/30/06
Wow, great info, thanks Eric, good to know! Thanks for your help/advice!
Patrick Ryan
<<My pleasure Ryan, hope it proves useful.  Regards, EricR>>

A little freaked out ... drilled glass tank worries/worrier   7/26/06
Hello Crew, well to the point.... I'm literally days away from setting up my new 180, beautiful stand/canopy done, Lifereef sump/skimmer, 6 *80W T5 with 2 * 250 MH HQI retro,  etc etc etc. I got great stuff and took my time buying and planning, reading and asked lots of questions (a few here).. Well I'm just about ready to go and I was on Reef Central tonight only to see a picture of a 180 show like mine that cracked on the bottom that was drilled!!! It has freaked me out a bit. My tank was built by a local guy with 1/2 inch glass, I got All-Glass to send me their braces for the top and bottom and siliconed in custom built acrylic overflows. The bottom pane has 8 holes in it. 2 in each overflow and 4 in the corners for Oceans Motions device. The tank I saw on RC cracked because his holes were in the middle from the weight of the rock. So I would like some reassurance or some pointers
1) Is this not safe?
<Should be fine>
2) I plan on a 4" DSB with 200 lbs of live rock so you have idea of weight.
3) Can I support it better to be more strong along with the All-Glass brace? Maybe Styrofoam or something.
<A good idea to assure the tank itself is on a support that is complete, strong, level and planar... Have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above?>
I can provide pics if needed, the stand is solid and custom designed buy a contractor experienced in aquatic design and is lipped so the bottom of the tank slides nice about 1" inside.
Hopefully I am OK here and you calm me, but better safe then sorry.
Thanks Jeff
<Likely all will work out here. Bob Fenner>

Stand
Dear Rob,
Thanks for your help! Here is another question: Can I do a stand in stainless steel that has been galvanized? 
<Mmm, yes... if you can arrange for none of the galvanization to rust, drop into the systems water... A good idea to coat over this coating... perhaps with an epoxy paint.>
What is galvanizing? 
<A process for... use your search engine: "galvanizing">
My LFS uses them for his stands, seems to be working fine without any hint of rust.
<Eventually... all ferrous materials oxidize/rust... it "never sleeps" as the saying goes>
I am thinking of this route as wooden stand is rather too expensive. I heard that metal stands are good for really big tanks, mine will have a weight of 800kg/m2
<Mmm, please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm
Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance, John

Stand building 6/2/03
Sir, I would like to know the load capacity of 2 10" wood I-beams they span 15 foot. I plan on placing a 72"x24" fish tank with everything it will weigh about 2500lbs.Thanks for any info you can give me. Glenn
<alas, I have no idea here my friend. But to find it, I'm sure there are places on the web that list such data. Experiment with some keyword phrases on Google.com  I also recall seeing small handbooks at the local DIY stores and lumber yards that have such measures and data in them. If nothing else, this is a popular commercial aquarium size. Take a peek at the stands for sale in local aquarium shops and online- they are built frightfully modest yet still work. Build yours stronger and rest assured. Best regards, Anthony>

Re: Glenn's stand-building question
Hi guys,
I recently built a stand for a standard 90 gal tank with the help of a contractor friend, and learned some things that might be useful to Glenn or other would-be stand builders out there.  According to this contractor, an 8-foot-long 2x4 will support something like 7000 pounds in compression (shorten that to a 3' length of 2x4 and that number climbs dramatically).  A normal framing nail will support up to 150 pounds of shear (force perpendicular to the nail).  So these materials truly are overkill for this type of application.  This contractor had wanted to build a box out of 1x2's with 3/4" plywood on all sides.  The plywood would be screwed and glued, and would be the actual structure of the piece, responsible for bearing the weight.  He thought this would support much much more than my 90 gal.  I'm sure this would have worked great and been really easy to build, but I don't like the look of normal plywood, or the price of the finished stuff, so I used tongue-and-groove paneling (1x6) as the weight-bearing members, all held together by an interior frame of 1x3's.  1 1/4 and 1 3/4" screws hold everything together.  There is one feature of my stand that I just love, and that is a sliding "drawer" for my 30 gal sump to sit on.  The drawer sits on a set of heavy duty drawer slides rated for 150 pounds, and lets me slide the sump out for service instead of trying to squeeze myself into the stand to work on it. Just my 2 cents.  Thanks.
Nick
<Thank you for this. Will post for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium Stands
Hello again,
Just wondering what your recommendation was as to the best solid wood (i.e., poplar, oak, etc.) stand and canopy product line for aquariums.
<Poplar is good for painting. Oak and Maple take stain well.>
The All Glass Modern Series is nice, but you cannot mount a retrofit lighting kit in their hood, so they aren't going to cut it. What's your suggestion?
<I would look at DIY sites such as http://www.ozreef.org/ Also, Oceanic makes a nice line of stand and canopies. You may get some good ideas from looking at their models.>
Thanks, Ben
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

- Sound Proofing the Stand -
Hello people,
<Hello, JasonC here...>
I must give kudos for all your hard work answering the multitudes of questions you must receive daily.  I am planning a 120 gal reef tank with an approx. 40 gal sump.  I am planning to keep the tank in my bedroom, because this is where I spend most of my time (college student), and because there's no room anywhere else in the house.  I've read your responses to others with the same idea, and the collective "you" seems to feel that the noise could cause sleeping problems. <No one asked me... I've had numerous tanks in my bedroom and have never had a problem sleeping with the sound created by the mechanics of the tank. I've had much larger problems with sounds that came from the tank itself... like the first time I heard the clicking shrimp living there. Was like tiny gun shots in the night...> With this in mind, I am considering using soundproof Styrofoam panels on the insides of the stand, where the sump, pumps and skimmer will be located.  I'm going to assume that this will need to be replaced periodically due to degradation via salt buildup, will this decomposition cause problems for my tank (i.e. is Styrofoam toxic)? <I think the Styrofoam will degrade a long, long time after the stand itself does... the stuff is pretty durable and resistant to salt water. Petrochemicals would be a different story.>
Secondly, I plan to paint the outside of the stand and the hood (also DIY) black, to focus viewer attention on the display tank.  I will of course search for a low-toxicity paint for this purpose, how do you feel about my painting the insides of the hood white, to reflect light and heat. <Sure, why not.> What if chips fall into the tank somehow? <Don't buy paint that will chip.>
Lastly, I plan to light the inside of the sump, to allow for a small refugium and the propagation of algae to balance pH (lighting at times inverse to display tank).  Do you have any suggestions for this? <Uhh... suggestions about what? Should you do it? What types of lights to use? Will you be able to sleep with those lights on? I'm not sure which answer you are looking for.> The lighting inside the sump would be NO or VHO. <I would use normal fluorescent.>
Thanks in advance!
Quinn Kuiken
<Cheers, J -- >

Building a Sturdy Tank Stand
Hello!
>Hi!
I really do appreciate the open forum, and responsive answers that you provide! I have read several articles related to my question, but just wanted some more specific advice.
>I'll do my best, but I'm not a contractor, nor do I have contracting experience.
I just bought a new 125Gal Acrylic tank from Tenecor, and plan on putting it in my living room (main floor w/ basement below).  
>Fun-fun!
Based on the 10lbs/per gal rule, plus the weight of the aquarium/stand/live rock - I would guess that it is all going to weigh in the neighborhood of 1300-1400 lbs.  
>Yep.  More specifically, salt water will weigh more on the order of 8.5lbs/gal, but it's far better to err on the side of caution.
As I mentioned, there is a basement below, but the tank would be up against the outside (load bearing) wall.  The tank is 5ft long, and would sit perpendicular to the floor joists, and span 4 floor joists.  Do you believe that I have enough support?  
>I'm a California girl...what's a basement?  J/K!  Again, I would prefer to err on the side of caution.  Would it impede your use of the basement to go ahead and place supports under the joists?  If not, then I say do it.
Should I put some support poles from the basement floor to support the joists directly below the aquarium?
>Again, yes, I would just to be safe.  I'd also go with 4x4's, not 2x's.  I'd use those construction joiners, those funky metal plate thingies...(sheesh!  Listen to me...PETE!!  Someone, stop me from looking so silly... oops, too late!)
Thanks again! Tim McLaren
>You're very welcome!  Marina

Tank Stand Construction
Hello Bob and Crew,
Sorry to keep bothering you guys.  What can I say; if you weren't so good than I wouldn't keep bothering you.  I am currently in the
planning stages of constructing a taller tank stand.  I haven't been completely satisfied with the schematics currently available, so I have created my own.  This stand will have to support 1800 lbs (I added 300 lbs in there for wiggle room).  It will be 61 inches long (tank is 60), 25 inches deep (tank is 24) and 34 inches tall.  I will be using 4 x 4s and a couple 2 x 4's.  I have attached the design (created in MS Paint).  Specifically, I would like to know 1). if it is a solid design, 2). What changes should be made, 3).  Whether the 28 inch access opening is too much for the top (2) 2 x 4s to handle (or if I could go up to 30 inches for an access opening), 4). I believe I built a lot of safety into this stand so would like to know if I can get away with pine construction or should use Poplar.  
<Your design didn't come with your post, but let me just comment on these questions and make a suggestion for your design. I suggest framing the walls just like house framing, w/2X4 studs, top and bottom plates, California corners. (see any home improvement book). The only change would be to place the top plate 2X4's "on edge" to support spans (or use 2X6's for your opening span). I wouldn't put an aquarium on top of a 2X4 spanning 28". I would use 2X6's (on edge, *not flat*), built like a floor spanning the entire stand, and then 3/4" ply platform. With good framing the sheeting/cover serves to stiffen the structure and can be most any wood of your choice.>
Please keep in mind this will be an acrylic aquarium and the entire top of the stand's frame will be covered in either 3/4" or 1" pressure treated plywood (suggestions on which I should use?). Thank you in advance for looking over these plans.  You guys rock...no, hold on...YOU GUYS ROCK!  Thanks, Mike
<Make sure there is support across the frame to support the plywood full length and width. (Part of placing top plate on edge, as cross supports can be easily accommodated) Do NOT use pressure treated plywood, just paint regular ply with latex and use a 1" Styrofoam sheet on top of that to handle surface irregularities. I suggest ply for the sides as well for stiffness/strength. Hope this helps!  Craig>   

Tank stand
Hi
<Hello there>
I was wondering if you could help me. I'm looking to make a stand to hold 2 tanks, 1 tank is 48long x 12deep x 18high inches while the other is 30x12x15 inches. I would like the larger tank to be on top. I was looking at building the stand out of wood probably 2x4 but I then heard some one talking about shelves. I think the water volume from the big tank would be too bigger pressure on a shelf, but thought I would ask for your opinion any way.
<Mmm, could be built of wood, maybe with six or eight feet/uprights, instead of four at the corners... that is, two or four more supports under the lower shelf for the smaller tank>
The area the stand would go is in an alcove so it could have support on 3 sides from the wall (brackets?),
<Sturdy ones>
I'm not plumbing the 2 tanks together. I've looked on loads of websites but can't find any diagrams or anything referring to a stand for 2 tanks.
<Maybe take a look over the premier DIY aquarium site: ozreef.org
Bob Fenner>

Will the Real (Good) Tank Stand Please Stand Up?
Cheers Fellas,
<John>
I want to build a tank for a 370 Gallon acrylic aquarium. It will be a basic stand no veneer oak just 6"x6" beams, the aquarium is going into the wall. Would 6x6" beams be adequate enough to hold the weight of a 370G saltwater fish only aquarium.
Thanks John
<Definitely so... a few further comments... drilling, carriage bolts, washers, nuts would be the fastener route I would go... and I'd attach a good thickness (3/4" or better) of plywood on top of the uprights... and if 6 bys, space them every three feet... Bob Fenner> 

Tank Cabinet
Was looking for some help. I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for some DIY plans on building a cabinet for my tank. It is a 75 gallon, 48x18x20. I am looking to build a cabinet that would allow me to store a 20" tall sump, with enough room for me to access my Euro-reef cs61 skimmer. I searched your FAQs and have already checked OZREEF. Any other places for plans?
<None right off hand... You can check FAMA's collections of "For What It's Worth"... go to a library, use a computer there to do a computer search for info... or have friends look over your drawn plans for making it... two by's likely... drilled and carriage bolted to allow you to disassemble... Easy to do. Bob Fenner> 

DIY Wood Stand Question
Dear Crew,
Good day.  
My question today is about DIY wood stands.  I plan to replace my 50G
metal stand.  
Dimension is 36 L x 18W.
Can I get by without a vertical support in the middle?  I intend to use
2 x 4 wood planks.
< Sure as long as the wide part is vertical and not horizontal. You probably could get by with the 2x4 running flat and not on the edge, but over the long run wood warps and some of the lumber lately is not the greatest around. I would tend to over build it, especially here in California where my tanks occasionally have to ride out an earthquake.-Chuck>
Thanks and regards.