My Tank Is Going To Put Me In An Asylum... Yikes! pH anomalies... large system, DSB maint.   10/2/07
Cheers guys, thanks for everything you do!
<Welcome>
Here's my question: I have a large system (1000 gallons), rock has been established for years (part of a tank move), when setting up the system 3 months ago I started to run into psychotic Ph issues, I thought it was CO2 (air conditioning induced), my reactor was tuned in and everything, I finally gave up, removed my $800 Deltec reactor, replaced it with a dual chamber model I built from $40 worth of Lowe's parts and boom, no ph issues (I found out later other people have had issues with Rowalith as well).
<Yes>
Anyway, I have several DSBs (my prop tanks have light coating of oolitic sand), and I planned on using Nassarius but IDIOT me forgot to get them as I was distracted by the ph issue. In the end all my param.s check out, no trates, no phosphate (haven't checked silicate yet but I use DI), mg 1250, Alk 10.5 dKH, ca 425, and I drip Kalk. All of my SPS has great polyp extension but they aren't coloring to the level I know that they can achieve (they lost color from the ph issues and stress). Everybody was dipped in TMPCC and there are no pests to speak of. I have a good amount of snails (true Vibex, Trochus, Mithrax crabs) on the way.
<Watch these last... I would exclude Mithraculus here>
I noticed some of the sand has a black layer below the top layer, the question is I ASSUME (we all know what happens when we assume that's why I am asking you guys) that once the clean up crew is in it should allieve and ultimately fix the DSBs and light sanded beds, and that I should not move to replace the sand, correct?
<If so, only a bit at a time, any given day... and "gingerly"... best to take that part of the system off line... dump, rinse, even bleach, FW rinse, air-dry that batch of sand... replace it some days later...>
I don't see hydrogen sulfide bubbles yet.
<You may not... and yet this could be a/the source of pH anomaly, worse troubles...>
I am also going to start monitoring ORP and from there will consider ozone.
<I would... For a system of this size, Ozone... and a dryer in conjunction would definitely be on my have list>
Thanks again
Tom
<Bob Fenner>

My Instant Ocean Salt Raises My pH To 8.8 – 11/13/07
First off, thank you for all the help you guys give to us ignorant hobbyists.
<<Mmm, not “ignorant” I’m sure…>>
I'm very new to the hobby and this is my first time writing a question, but I've already spent countless hours on your site, and reading "The Conscientious Aquarist."
<<Excellent>>
Great book by the way.
<<Much in agreement>>
Anyways, I inherited a VERY dirty 120g tank and took about 50% of the original water (all the fish in it died after 1 hour of transport).
<<…!>>
It has a huge wet-dry trickle filter (already replaced bio-balls with live-rock 2 months ago), about 45 lbs live rock (plan on getting more), I added 1- snowflake eel, 4- damsels, 1- arrow crab, 1- zebra hermit, 1- scarlet hermit, about 10- blue-legged hermits, and about 6- turbo snails (used to be a lot more but they've been dying off. I'm assuming it’s due to my nitrate issue).
<<Oh?>>
Ammonia - 0, nitrite - 0, nitrate - 80 (gone down recently from over 160!),
<<Yeeikes!>>
pH 8.8,
<<Too high as you know, do get this down to about 8.4>>
Phosphates- 1.0,
<<Way too high… Everything needs Phosphate to survive, but you should strive to keep this reading below 0.02ppm>>
Specific gravity- 1.022.
<<Natural saltwater levels are best…1.025/1.026>>
Despite the levels, all the fish seem to be doing fine (except for the snails R.I.P.).
<<Maybe not for the long term…but then maybe these readings are not as they seem…do verify them/the efficacy of your test kits>>
I just bought a 5-stage RO/DI that will cure my phosphate problem so my only problems now are nitrates and pH. I age the water in 3 separate closed 6g tubs each with their own airstone for 24 hours. The pH at this time is 7.4 (nitrates 0). I then add 3 cups of Instant Ocean and after another 24 hours the pH is at 8.8!
<<Troubling…assuming the tester is accurate, something is terribly wrong here. I will also state that after about 3 decades of use, I recently changed from using Instant Ocean salts due to troubles with the last dozen or so buckets I’ve purchased>>
I have done multiple tests and always the same.
<<I see…with new kits, and of different brands?>>
Is this normal for synthetic salts?
<<Not in my experience and not with this brand>>
Should I use an acid buffer for all my change water and if so what kind?
<<I wouldn’t… If this is truly a characteristic of the salt mix, I would consider a change…and my recommendation for a switch is the Seachem brand of artificial sea salts>>
For my nitrate problem I've added a ton of Denitrate chemical media, I do a little more than a 15% bi-monthly water change, and I have a large hang-on turbojet Berlin skimmer. Am I doing anything wrong?
<<Until the nitrates are brought down I would increase the water changes to bi-weekly. I would also recommend a better/more efficient skimmer>>
Suggestions to better my set-up?
<<Along with what I’ve already stated, the addition of a refugium with a DSB and Chaetomorpha macroalgae would be beneficial…but you also need to determine the source of the Nitrates. You state you’ve just acquired an RO/DI unit which should help here as well if the Nitrates are coming from your source water (have you tested this?). I would also add as small canister filter with cut-up Poly-Filter in it>>
I apologize for the length.
<<Not a problem>>
I just want the best for my fish.
<<Please do read here and among the associated links at the top of the pages: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm >>
Thank you so much for the help!
-Phil
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

pH of top-off water  9/23/07
Good morning all,
<Kim>
As always, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with all of us out here on the learning curve of this hobby. I have been struggling with maintaining the PH level of my top off water. I have attached the information that I have found on WWM below for reference/background, as this person had the exact same problem I am experiencing.
<Okay>
I keep about eight gallons of top off at a time right now. Recently I purchased a RO/DI unit, and at the same time I switched from using Kent Marine Buffer over to SeaChem Marine Buffer. Since then I have not been able to keep the PH up in the Top off water. After researching here, I thought that maybe the powerhead I have in the bucket is not strong enough.
<Mmm, shouldn't matter>
I upped it to a Maxijet 1200, and it hasn't helped at all. I aerate the water with the powerhead, and keep it heated as well.
<Good>
I also keep a cover on the bucket. If I buffer it to proper PH at night, the next day it is consistently back down below the PH scale.
<May need to leave the top off...>
Do you have any other suggestions as to what could be wrong? I'm wondering if the process works such that when you add the buffer and test an hour or so later, the test should be off the charts, but settle back the appropriate level the following day?
<Usually so, yes>
Presently I'm only adding enough buffer to bring it up to the 8.2ish range within an hour or so.
As an aside, like the other inquirer, I live in an older home, so it is not super-well insulated.
<Actually better most times for air exchange...>
Thank you for your time.
Regards,
Kim in Boston
<I would first try leaving the mixing container top ajar for a day... Next I would try adding a teaspoon or two per five gallons of simple baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) to see if this moves the pH. Please do re-contact me/us re. Bob Fenner>

High pH 9/20/07
Hello Helpful People,
<Hello Jazmine>
I have a major concern regarding my current pH. When I tested last night around 7PM it was 8.51. Around 11PM it dropped down to 8.45. This morning at 6:30AM it was 8.37. I tested it at 5:30P this evening and it has increased to 8.61. I honestly cant figure out what is causing the increase. I recently lost (2) Emerald crabs & (1) Sally Lightfoot crab. I wonder if the loss is due to my high PH levels all of my other parameters appear to be stable i.e. dKH 8.3, Calcium 360 ppm, Nitrate 5 ppm, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Phosphates .5 ppm, Salinity 1.023, & temp 78.6. I performed a 30 gal water change on 9/16 which consisted of distilled water & Instant Ocean salt. Part of my regular routine is to dose 12 drops of iodine nightly. The only thing I did differently on 9/16 was to dose 1 tsp of Kent's Trace Elements (the directions call for 1 tsp per 50 gallons).
I have a 90 gal tank with a 20 gal sump. My fish & corals seem to be ok, for the moment. If the PH continues to increase, I'm not sure how my tank will fair.
Please let me know what you believe is causing the increase, and what if anything can be done to correct it.
Your guidance as always is appreciated.
<Mmm, a pH of what you are reading is not extremely high and would not cause the death of your crabs. You may have an unknown predator in the tank that caused the demise. On another note, large Sally's can and will attack other invertebrates and small fish, and may have been the reason for the Emerald's loss. I would stop dosing iodine for a while and if you are using Lugol's solution, 12 drops per night is way too much. Lugol's is normally dispensed at one drop per 10 gallons weekly. I'd also re-read the instructions on your iodine supplement (if not using Lugol's) thinking you are overdosing here. Iodine is not one of those supplements where more is better, quite the reverse. As for your three digit pH readings, I assume you are using an electronic device to measure pH. You may want to recalibrate the unit using a pH calibration fluid. Based on the info you provided, I'd be very surprised if your pH was actually that high.
James (Salty Dog)>
Jazmine

Re: High pH 9/23/07
Hi Salty,
<Hello Jazmine>
Thanks for allaying my fears that the high PH killed my critters.
<You're welcome.>
I thought about what you said in relation to an unknown predator. The only thing in my tank large enough to kill one of my crabs is a 6 inch Engineer Goby. Should I be concerned about the Goby?
<No.>
I have a Hanna digital pH monitor, which I recently calibrated. I am going to take a water sample to my LFS and ask them to test the pH. In addition I only used Kent's Iodine.
<Jazmine, one thing to keep in mind is that digital pH testers in this price range are not dead accurate. If you bought the model pHep4, it's accuracy is +/- .1, which means your pH could read .85 higher or lower. The model pHep5 is a more accurate unit with an
accuracy of +/- .01 which could give you a drift of .085 either way. These numbers would be based on a known sample of 8.5pH.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jazmine

Depressed pH...Air-Conditioning And CO2 – 09/07/07
Guys, my system is RACKING my brain.
<<Oh?>>
I have in total a 500 gallon system (between tanks, sump, all that good stuff). Anyway, I can’t get pH above 8.0 naturally (this with dripping Kalk 24 hrs a day, pH drops to 7.8 at night), but when I take a sample outside, and put an airstone in it, it rises to 8.3 in an hour.
<<Mmm...a CO2 issue...>>
I have a display located in the house, the sump is in the basement, and two more large tanks in another room in the house. I live in VA and it gets hotter than Hades so I have two window units in addition to central air (it’s an old house).
<<I see>>
I have read that air conditioners put off CO2,
<<Yes...but ”indirectly”... If I understand what I have read, the air-conditioning units do not produce CO2 themselves, but rather they contributes to the production of this element through the burning of fossil-fuels to make the electricity needed to run the air-conditioners (some estimated 3,400lbs a year per average American household)>>
so I am going to aerate (with pumps outside with lines running into the house) to help.
<<This will help, but not for the reason you think. The problem is likely that your house is sealed very tightly allowing CO2 from respiration and the use of gas appliances to build to very high levels>>
It seems confined to the rooms with the window units as I have taken unused saltwater samples that would normally be 8.3, put it in those rooms, left it for a while, and the pH will drop to 8.0.
<<Interesting...try “cracking” a window and see what happens to the pH>>
In sum, I know aerating will help, a refugium which I just plumbed in will help, I read on WetWebMedia carbon can help raise pH. Do you have any other recommendations?
<<Mmm, not really...other than “piping-in” a source of fresh outside air near the tank locations>>
What is it that causes air conditioners to put off CO2?
<<As stated, I don’t think these units do this directly>>
I told my wife it was because she talks too much and that was the cause of the excess CO2 (LOL).
<<Hah! A brave (or foolish?) man indeed...though there is some truth here>>
Obviously this is a summer issue, and in another month or two I won’t have to worry about it, but next year it will be back.
<<Are these tanks new/newly placed in this house? Is this a phenomenon you have experienced before? I ask this because I would expect but for those times of the year when you have windows open that you would experience the problem year-round (i.e. – during the cold of winter when the house is again sealed up and the heat is running)>>
I have tons of SPS, and they are healthy but not at peak color (pH will drop at night to 7.8).
<<This may not be a function of the pH...7.8 is not all “that bad”...though you want to make sure it doesn’t drop any lower>>
Thanks for any advice.
Tom
<<Happy to help. EricR>>

Re: PH/calcium-reactor – 06/08/07
Hi Bob Fenner,
<Mohamed>
I have read the articles below. If I understand it correctly a high calcium level of 350 - 450 and KH of 8 - 12 would give you a high PH say 8.3.
<Mmm, somewhere this abouts. There are other factors... that could move this higher or lower>
I use a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and sodium carbonate in = quantity to maintain KH and calcium chloride for calcium (temporary).
<Mmm, yes... am hoping you've seen my cursory statements re the use of CaCl2...>
My tank is more a holding tank until my new place will be ready within a year, so the tank has a lot of is coral.
<I see>
Latest test my KH is 10 my calcium is 340 but my PH is still low, this morning it was 7.88, what else could be the problem?
<Mmm, perhaps an abundance of carbon dioxide... See WWM re... the search tool...>
My nutrient levels are undetectable. I do 5% water change a week.
Evaporated water, I use a Kalk reactor. I completed the calcium reactor should be connected this weekend after I sort-out the leaks.
<Ah, good... this added piece of equipment will likely solve all these issues in one throw>
The only level I am unsure of currently is magnesium waiting for a new test kit.
Thanks
Mohamed
<Thank you for sharing your adventures, plans with me/us. Bob Fenner>

pH on 90 gal reef – 06/08/07
Hello All:
<Paul>
My question is concerning PH on my 90 gal 3 year old reef. After a recent upgrade to an Aquacontroller III, I became aware of lower PH values than I thought I was experiencing. My readings read between 7.81 during the evening to 8.03 during the day. For the past several years I have used a GEO calcium reactor which has kept my Ca and Alk within acceptable range. Since opening the windows tends to raise the PH, I attribute the low PH to C02 buildup.
<Ahh! Yes... just have responded to another querier re this poss. issue>
Unfortunately, living in south Florida prohibits me from keeping the windows open most of the time. Doing so tends to create an entirely different problem (Heat!). I thought one way of raising my PH would be to install a Nilsen reactor in addition to my current calcium reactor.
<Worth trying... though Kalk won't sustain a higher pH...>
I purchased a unit that is a good size. The manufacturer claims it can hold up to 2 cups of Kalkwasser powder but I started off with 1 cup. I drip the Kalk water as a steady drip during the evening after the lights are off. It is controlled by both the Aquacontroller that only allows it to run in the evening as well as float switch that shuts off a solenoid valve controlling my RO replacement water. The RO water runs through the Nilsen Reactor before entering my sump. This setup works great. I also have the Nilsen Reactor set up to only mix (auto spin) during the daytime when the Reactor is not dripping Kalk. All sounds great right? Here is my question. Although this has improved my PH somewhat, I am rather surprised at the readings. It now ranges between 7.91 at night to 8.02 during the day. I realize these numbers are fine and the swing is less than before but I thought I would achieve higher readings. I cannot drip 24/7 since even a slow drip would cause the unit to shut off after the sump has reached its desired water level.
<Correct... but/and not likely advantageous to "drip" during light hours in any case>
When I first set up the Nilsen reactor my PH went as high as 8.15 during the day and my Alk went up as well. After 2 weeks the Alk has come down and the PH high has also come down.
<Yes... do you understand what went, is going on here? The ready "boost" of added hydroxide (from the Kalk)... can/will only "have adventures" for some time... what are the rate-limiting factors here?>
My reef has been thriving well for 3 years. Some would say (including you I am sure) that I should probably leave well enough alone.
<Oh! You are correct>
I was wondering if you had any recommendations on the PH.
<Mmm, yes... to ignore it here really... if you are of the mind to augment, look into purposeful buffering products of DIY mixtures of carbonate/s, bicarbonate/s, possibly a bit of Borate... "toss in a spoonful" of this once a day... into the sump...>
My only thought was to use the full 2 cups of Kalk powder in the Nilsen Reactor. Not sure if this would change much since I am sure the water going into the Nilsen is saturated.
<Mmm, won't have to fill the unit as often...>
It may only change the length of time between required refills of Kalk powder.
<Dang! I've gots to read ahead of keying!>
Thanks for your help. Paul, Boynton Beach, FL
<Oh! Have been diving (Splashdown Divers) off your coast... Mum in law has a Winter place in Lauderdale Lakes... Really likely the patch reefs off your coast... Many fine folks, restaurants, watering holes in your town...>
90 gal reef
sump/ refugium
(2) 175 10K MH
(2) 110 watt VHO super actinics
PH 7.91-8.02
Alk 10dkh
Ca 410
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0
Magnesium 1370
Water changes 10 gal monthly
<I'd step this up... maybe twice a month... Bob Fenner>

How Do I Raise The pH In A Very (3g) Small Reef Tank?...Water Changes! - 05/26/07
Hello,
<<Hi Joe>>
Let me start with saying you guys are great!
<<We do try...thanks!>>
I have a 3-gallon reef tank.
<<Mmm, tiny...>>
I bought a Pulsing Xenia and placed in my tank only to find it oh-boy so happy.
<<Cool!>>
So I researched this site and found out about pH plays a major part for Xenia.
<<Not just for Xenia mate...>>
So after testing I found my pH at 6.6.
<<Hmm...am doubtful...your tank would not survive this pH level.  I very much suggest you validate the efficacy of your test kit>>
I know way way way to low.
<<Indeed...but not likely an accurate reading>>
How can I raise this to 8.3 without using a supplement even if it can be done with no supplement?
<<On such a small system as yours, maintaining "balance" is most easily and effectively done with simple "water changes."  Just make sure to prepare/age the saltwater correctly>>
If not what supplement would you advise?
<<None, for this size tank>>
I dose with Kent alk buffer so my dKH is bout 10 or 11.
<<No need to use this...and doing so will probably cause more problems than help.  If your pH reading does by chance turn out to be accurate, then I would look to the use/overuse of this product in this small tank as the culprit>>
Also I use Red Sea salt mix.
<<Better/more stable brands; in my opinion, to be had (IO, Tropic Marin, Seachem)>>
Is it a must to aerate and if I can't would there be negatives to this?
<<Adequate water movement is all you need/is essential to the system>>
Thanks, Joe
<<First thing to do here Joe...validate that pH reading.  Regards, EricR>>

pH, SW... – 5/4/07
Hello Crew. I have had this tank for five years now and I am about to give it up.
<!?>
First some specs. 65 gallon tub with 20 gallon sump and 20 gallon refugium. Total water volume minus sand  and rock is probably around 85 gallons. Two closed loop pumps in main tank , one 1100gph, one 1200gph. Return water via a mag nine through a chiller.
<Am about to give up on your msg... where's your spacing?>
Kent skimmer. Four actinics of which two are VHO 95 watt and two are 30 watt. Two 400 watt 20k halides which operate on a light rail placing bulbs 3 inches above water.
<Too close>
Each halide burns 2 hours a day giving four hours of halide light. I feel anymore just adds heat and spurs algae growth.
<... no>
A SeaSwirl handles the return to the tank along with another exit on the opposite side of the tank.Two one inch exits
<Too small>
handle the overflow to the sumpand skim the surface water quite well.One of the overflows diverts a small quantity of water to the refugium which has a 18 watt daylight bulb illuminating it on reverse cycle lighting.The water from the refugium is
passive carbon filtered before returning to the sump.The cheato
<Algae that goes crunch?>
and othe algaes show no aggresive growth which I think indicates my nutrient levels are low. Nitrate levels are barely readable using a Salifert kit.Phosphate unreadable using a Salifert kit.I do use phosphate removing media.Tank inhabitants range from 4"acro colonies such as millepora,samentosa, aspera,and the fast growing turaki to encrusting montipora and frags of ten or so other sps. Large polyp types include a bubble,two pagodas,four open brains, a tounge,a small acan,and afist sized colony of galaxia.No soft coral except for various mushrooms and zooanthids.Other than a Pseudochromis and mithrax crabs,cerith snails that's it.While none show a lot of growth except for the turaki they seem healthy.Most of the acros extend polyps during the dayand really do at night.At nine or so at night one of the closed loops shuts downfor two hours to give them a breather from the current.At this time once a week I feed
the corals either DT oyster eggs or copepod/diatom mixture I scrape off the side of the refugium using a brine shrimp net. This tank has always had a low PH problem and over the years I have tried various buffers which gave so so results.
<... for what reason/s?>
I tried kalkwasser drips and my latest venture with a controller resulted in constant salinity dilution by the amount of kalk being dosed to keep the Ph at 8.19 at night. It was only when it started diving to 7.8 that I became really worried.Im not obsessed with it,I would be happy with an 8.2 all the time. I practise good husbandry with regular 2week 25% +/- water changes and vacumn most of the gook off the rocks with a rig I made. I may have a dead spot in the sand on end of the tank for it has gone darkish  against the glass and may have sulfur intrusion but I know of no way to verify it.What can I do to correct the low Ph at night? I have too much invested to stress the inhabitants to the point of going south. I should mention that
even during the light period in the day the Ph only rises to 8.07 or 8.1. Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated.
<You actually answer all the questions you posit... Please read here re pH anomalies/fixes: http://wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: pH, SW     5/7/07
     I apologize for offending with my spacing . I do not have a computer at home so I only have a small time frame to use the one I have access to.
<Mmm... the small "cost" of communicating (at least with us) is an attempt at proper English... spellchecker...>
I am not sure I understand what you meant by answering my  own post.
<Your insights are obvious... to me it seems you're quite aware of the root/causes of the situation here>
This weekend I changed 20 gallons of water in the system. It was prebuffered, oxygenated, before adding salt. The R.O. water was at 7.2 at the start and 8.3 at the end of the process.
      Sunday, the high reading was 8.06. This morning the reading was 7.75. I verified the pinpoint the monitors reading with a test kit. Calcium was 380 and alkalinity was 4.23. I have tried adjusting the alkalinity up to no avail as to change in Ph.
<These are not necessarily linked events... there is unfortunate, easily mis-understood cross-terminology at play here... Alkalinity and alkaline are not the same...>
As expected, it only lowered calcium. I use Seachem products. Advantage calcium, Reef builder and buffer. I also use Instant Ocean salt which I noticed has been dropped from Marine Depot as a product. Should I change to a different salt?
<I would not... but would continue reading... Do you understand what pH is? You (and everyone) are faced with either adding to your system (more carbonate, bicarbonates mostly... possibly other means like ozone) ways/means of elevating pH... and/or reducing the numbers, degrees of ways in which you are reducing this and alkaline reserve (pH buffering capacity)... More soluble substrates, rock... less foods, feeding, improved skimming, enhanced ReDox... Read on! Where you were referred to. Bob Fenner>

Re: continuing ph saga, "Closed-up houses...." Houseplants are NOT your friends!    5/10/07
Hi Bob,
              I ran the indoor, outdoor air CO2 test with the following results. Outdoor air raised the Ph reading from 8.0 to 8.3 in less than 30 minutes.
<Ah, yes...>
Using a fresh sample and indoor air the reading actually fell to 7.8. My wife said she is not going to stop breathing so my tank will have a higher reading.
<Heeeee! That four percent of exhaled CO2 in a too-sealed living space is deleterious...>
              So I constructed a filtered outdoor air box to feed my skimmer. The net gain was a low of 8.0(much improved over 7.76) to a day time high of 8.15. Calcium is 340 to 360.
<Bingo>
Total alkalinity is 5 meq. Carbonate alkalinity is 3.3 meq. Total alkalinity is high because I dosed Kalkwasser in an effort to bump up Ph a bit. It did not work.
<Mmm, no... not a permanent/real fix here>
               I am considering building an aeration tank out of a spare 5 gallon I have. I could  use a venturi powerhead using outside air in a effort to blow off more carbon dioxide. Do you think this is the folly of more is better?
<Neat idea>
Using air gaps I could eliminate the overflow hazard. The flow could be adjusted low enough to give some dwell time. Sounds like a skimmer, I know. Thanks for your help so far.
<Thank you for sharing! BobF>

pH/Finger Leather, Coral Health 4/12/07
Hi there Crew,
<Hello Michelle>
First, let me thank you for the amazing website. I have spent many an hour cruising your site. (I did look for answers before asking) : )
I started a 55 gal saltwater tank 5 weeks ago. I have 55 lbs LR, and live sand 40 lbs. I use R/O water w/Kent Marine Salt mix. I have a light w/high output florescent, blue actinic's and a moon light setting.
<Knowing the wattage helps.>
My lighting cycle is 12 hrs on, 12 off. I do 5% water changes twice a week.  My filter is a Freedom Flow, rated to 90 gals, and I have two Maxi jets, a 900 & 1200.
My stats: <Parameters> Salinity: 1.024, PH: 8.0, Nitrates: 0, Nitrites: 0, GK: <GK?.. dKH?> 11 and Ammonia: 0.
Tank inhabitants: 1 Turbo Snail, 1 Scarlet Shrimp, 3 Hermit Crabs, 4 Green Chromis, 2 Percula Clowns (tank raised), 2 Fire Fish Gobies, 1 Starry Dragonet and 1 Copper Banded Butterfly. Invertebrates: 1 Branching Hammer soft coral and 1 Finger Leather.  Oh, and a bunch of Caulerpa.  -Whew, I think that's it....  
<Way too many fish for your 55.  The Copper Band was not a good choice if you are new at this.  More than likely will no be around long.>
Sorry to be long winded, but I want you to have the info, hopefully I "said" it right.
First question:  My pH, I can't seem to get it higher than 8.0.
<Not surprising with your fish load.>
Now,  I own Bob's book (awesome!!!) and I have been adding, for three weeks, 2 teaspoons of baking soda. Yet this doesn't seem to make a difference. I followed his directions and add it straight to the filter and only at the water changes. I read the FAQ on pH and I noticed that one guy said 1 teaspoon per gallon, but I thought Bob said 1 teasp per 10 gals???   What should I do? I don't want to harm any of my creatures.
<Really need to test dKH with a quality test kit, and then add a little of the buffer daily (one tablespoon per 10 gallons will work), then test dKH the following day.  A good level to maintain is 8-12 dKH.>
Is  8.0 ok?
<Not bad, but you can help this matter by reducing your fish load.>  
Second question: My Hammer is flourishing! Yay!  But my Finger Leather is not. The darn LFS said to put him in low flow, so I tried that, but he didn't seem to like it. Plus I read on FAQ that he should be in high flow, so I moved him. Finger guy is now right up on my the top of my rocks, about 6 - 7 inches from my light. He's in a high flow area. He shed a bunch of mucous-y stuff, but his polyps don't really come out.
<They do go through this process.  If things are normal, it will re-bloom soon.>
Today I woke up and one "branch" is squished down, while the other is just kind of dark. Some polyps out, but not many. The Finger is no where near the Hammer. I add Iodine & Phyto-Plankton once a week. What am I doing wrong?
<The Copper Band is a notorious coral eater, surprised your LFS sold you this knowing you have corals.  He is most likely the bulk of the problem and
should be removed and taken back to the dealer or find a good home for it.>
BTW, the local LFS said I didn't need a heater. My tank temp runs about 80-82.
<Where do you live?  What is your ambient night time temperature?>
I am actually a bit frustrated with the local LFS 's around here (there's three) I get conflicting info from each of them, sometimes from employee's within the store!  LOL  Ack!
<Working at a fish store does not necessarily mean he/she is a knowledgeable person in this field.>
Oh also I had to say, no one told me about the possibility of getting Sea Stars with your LR! They said to watch for other stuff. But I found one, how cool is that!!!!!  I love my tank and want to do the right thing. Thank you so much for your help and advice!  You guys rock!!
<Definitely more reading/learning for you Michelle.>
Sincerely,
<James (Salty Dog)>
Michelle

Help! Too high PH... Salt mix...  4/6/07
Hi Crew,
<Don>
I have been using your site for the 3 years that I have been keeping a reef tank with fish and live rock. I have a 55 gallon tank, aqua c remora pro
<Proper nouns; capitalized>
skimmer, refugium w/macroalgae, lots of live rock, live sand with detritivores, sand plenum, 150W MH x 2, T5 fluorescent 54 w x 2 actinic and white, magnum 350 canister filter w/floss. Live stock includes a host anemone, mushroom coral, pulsating xenia, brain coral, finger leather coral, squamosa clam, feather duster worms, polyps, 1 yellow tang, 1 powder brown tang,
<Hard to keep... particularly in such a small volume>
two damsel fish, one blue Linckia starfish, one mandarin fish, one lawnmower blenny.
My water parameters are as follows: PH swings from 8.0 to 8.7 daily.
<Too much...>
It was even worse, until yesterday, when I did a large 20 gallon water change, with Coralife sea salt,
<I'd switch brands>
RO water. My skimmer has been going wild, filling the cup with foam in around 10 hours. Nitrates 5, nitrites 0, DKH 9.9, Calcium 280
Mg/l. ALL OF MY ANIMALS ARE DECLINING RAPIDLY! What is going on?
<In the words taken from the classic "Wizard of Oz" (in my best Wicked Witch of the West voice): "They're melting"... the pH is too high, too vacillating... interfering chemically, biochemically...>
I have not seen this happen before. Please help me to correct this situation ASAP.
<The salt mix... your procedure/s for mixing, storing it...>
Some more info to possibly help: my pulsating xenia have been declining for a couple of weeks. I have been trying to identify why. I noticed that my calcium was down to 200, and my DKH was up to 18 last week. I also noticed foam showing up identical to what the skimmer produces, in small clumps floating around the top of the aquarium at that time.
Please help ASAP!!!!
Thank you,
Don Laskey
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
Scroll down... the area below the blue bar... on Water Issues... synthetics... Bob Fenner>

High ph and Alk  - 03/24/07
I am having some problems lowering my Alk and KH values
My tank is 3 years I do water changes 1 once a week about 10 to 15 %
All my calculations are within normal values
Cal 450
Mag 1250
Salt 31
Ph 8.3-8.4
Phos .05
nitrate is ok a bit on the high side then my liking but I understand that considering I have a fish tank with 15 medium size in a 120 gallons tank, this is ok but if you have any suggestions I sure would like to here them on this.
copper 0
KH/alkalinity is KH value is 16 dKH and my alkalinity in meg/l is 5.71.
<Mmm, a bit high... but going along with your biomineral and pH readings... not a bad situation>
I also use a activated carbon bag in my sump is this good or bad for any of the above test
<Not really bad in the least>
I use the Salifert test kit for all of my testing how do I bring this down Alkalinity to a reasonable level thanks frank
<Well... first off, I would panic, nor do much to alter your present situation... "if" real... I would test your test kit/s... esp. alkalinity... It itself may be off... Otherwise, I would dilute the alkaline reserve by simple regular water changes... using water of less alkalinity... See WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>

Please HELP with super high PH :( – 03/17/07
Hi Guys,
<Hello.  Brandon here.>
Before I start wailing about my problems, I would like to compliment you guys on a "SPANKING NICE WEBSITE"!!
<Thank you.>
I remember searching high and low to check compatibility between multiple dwarf angels in the same tank.
Thanks to you guys I have a flame and beauty both in the same 120 peacefully (fatter by the day) living.
<Good to hear it.>
And am quiet proud of it :)))
Same with my bio balls raising nitrates.
One problem is; am unable to find a solution to my high PH.
It started nice at 8.4. I use tap water to top off. Have done it always without problems.
Tap water ph is 8.4 even today.
The ph in my tank is 8.8 and even 8.9 sometime (lights on) and 8.6 to 8.7 (lights off).
Almost got a cardio when I saw it :)
Have read that some lights can affect electronic meters. Since I use a Hanna electronic meter, I tried testing samples in a dark place also.
<Have you made sure that the meter is calibrated?  It could be the calibration solution as well.  I would try out a liquid test kit first thing.>
Have tried all the stuff like soda, pH down, vinegar
<As I said I would make sure that the probe calibration solution is not bad or something, and then I would try to recalibrate the probe, but the very first thing to do is confirm that the pH is really off by using a liquid/other test kit.  If you use these substances before you do this, then you have a good likely hood of causing a major pH crash.>
Nothing works for more than one night. Then alls back to 8.8 and 8.9
<Check with another test kit.>
Here are my tank details
Lights-
1 Osram 5200 K 150w MH on 7 hrs
1 German make 20K 150w MH on 7 hrs
3 AZOO tubes 40w (have almost stopped using them other than dusk n dawn
simulations) on 12 hrs
1 led lamp for moonlight
Circulation
1 Aquanic 3000L connected to SCWD
2 AZOO 2000L opp sides
1 return pump (1000L effective with 2.5 feet head)
Water parameters:
Nitrates < 10
Nitrite, ammonia are zero.
CA 400+ (fluctuates a bit sometimes) using Kalk in all night drip for 10-15 liters on sat n sun (this hardly raises PH more than 1 point)
KH 7-8 dKH
<This is a little low>
Often supplement Kent/AZOO MG+ and AZOO reef iodide
Filtration:
Skimmer connected to 2500L powerhead runs 24 hrs. It removes 30% cup level of tea colored liquid daily.
50Kgs live rock and 100Kgs base rock (must be live now after 8 months)
Substrate is crushed coral
Fortnightly 20% (tank volume without sump) water change. (started from last 1 month)
Tank size and Livestock:
Glass 120G bowfront with 100L sump
1 coral beauty and 1 flame angel
3 damsels
4 perculas
<Watch these guys.  As a rule two Clown Fish only.>
1 firefish
1 sea star
2 cleaner shrimps
5 polyps
5 mushrooms
2-3 snails
Few feather dusters
Hope that is not overloading.
<I might take out two of the Perculas.>
I also suspect my coralline *growth* is non existent due to this high PH.
The existing coralline on the live rocks is not dying thankfully (not growing either).
Would be really, really kind of you to help me.
<Confirm that the probe is correct, and then move on from there.>
Many, many thanks in advance
<You are welcome, Brandon.>
Ranjith

Re: Please HELP with super high PH :(   3/21/07
Hi (Brandon),
<Hello again Ranjith.>
Thank you for the quick response.
<You are welcome.>
I checked like you said with another meter (of a fellow aquarist) that was calibrated recently. The readings are the same.
<Hmmmm.>
It does not seem to be a calibration problem. Also, my nano reads correctly as 8.4 8.5 using the same meter.
<There is a possibility that the tank could be too clean, i.e the skimmer is doing too good a job, as dissolved organics will usually lower the pH.  I would also say check the pH of the tap water that you are using.  I would do a 10-20% water change, and then turn off the skimmer for about two hours a day, to see if that helps.  I might also be advantageous to take a gander here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm.>
Any other suggestions?
<Yep.  I listed them above.>
Thanks Again
<You are welcome, I hope that this is of some help.  Brandon.>
Ranjith

Re: Please HELP with super high PH :(   3/21/07
Hiiii :))
<Hello again Ranjith.>
My skimmer's power head conked out and had not been able to take time to go and get a replacement.
So it's been totally shut for the last 3 days. The PH has come DOWN to 8.5  8.6.  in-spite of night long Kalk drip (1 drop every 4 seconds)
Kalk solution is 1 tablespoon of Kalk in 10 liters of tap water. Fresh tap water (10 liters) is added daily for up to 2 weeks to the solution.
Then the settled substance is replaced with new Kalk.
<You are dosing too much.  Please search WWM Re: Kalkwasser, Slurry Method, calculating calcium usage.>
I also read through the article on PH. Quiet informative.
<Indeed.>
This is good news but brings up more questions
1. Just in 3 days of zero skimming, Is it normal for the PH to drop so sharply (8.8 to 8.6) in spite of Kalk drip?
<This is adding DOC’s to the water.  This is a small beneficial build up of organic acids.>
2. If the tank is too clean, then why are nitrates at < 10ppm consistently ?
<This has to do with Nitrifying bacteria.  As a byproduct of NO2 consumption, they release NO3.>
3. Why do I still have good algae growth (green and red) (because of the nitrate I guess?)
<Yes.  This is a likely cause.>
4. Even after the CA is 400+ and good amount of MG and decent alk(7-8dkh), coralline is still not growing fast (nor is it receding).
<Ca is a little high.>
I see spots of pink starting then the pink color vanishes in a day or 2 and only white part remains.
<See above Ca being a little too high, as well as a lower Alk.>
Please do not mind me asking soo many questions. Am quiet new to this hobby and it is difficult to get expert advise here so am coming up with many questions.
<This is good as I like to answer questions.>
And once again, thank you for helping out.
<No problem.>
Cheerssss
<Have a good day.  Brandon>
Ranjith

Re: Please HELP with super high PH :(   3/21/07
Hi Brandon,
<Hello Ranjith.>
One last question.
<Sure thing.>
If the tank is too clean, then why are nitrates at < 10ppm
consistently?
<This has to do with Nitrifying bacteria.  As a byproduct of NO2 consumption, they release NO3.>
Question is, If the skimmer is too efficient, the DOC level left in the tank must be negligible.
<Indeed.>
This should produce very less Ammonia and subsequently the NO2 levels must remain bare minimum. The algae growth would finish off remaining NO3 making the level of NO3 zero or very close to that.
<You do have fish don't you?  DOC's do not in and of themselves cause NH3. When these compounds are broken down NH3 is created.  Your fish are the originating source of your NH3.  They release it during respiration, and when they urinate, or defecate.  This is what your bacteria are feeding off of.  All that a skimmer does, is remove solid/liquid organic mater before it has a chance to be broken down into NH3 or in other words, before it can rot.   The skimmer WILL NOT remove NH3, NO2, or NO3.  Notice the word protein in the name.  This is what it can collect, organic matter that would otherwise rot.  Sometimes feces is a part of this, but there is still NH3 released into the water.  Same with urine.  While there is a certain amount of urine that is protein matter, there is also ammonia, as well as other things. Unfortunate thing here, is that if your skimmer is too good, then all of the organic compounds are removed.  This is bad because you want a little bit to break down into organic acids.  This tempers your pH.>
To sum up, the nitrates level must be related to the DOC’s in the water.
<I would agree if they were excessive, but they are not.  Sometimes NO3 levels have to do with the activity of bacteria inside a power filter.  Basically the NO3 levels seen get insanely high 40-120 ppm.  I have heard of a person having 180ppm at one time though I am sure that this number was off.  This is one of the times that you can chalk up NO3 levels to DOC‘s.  I would say that you are just experiencing normal nitrification, and that the NO3 is mostly being broken down to N.  As far as your skimmer being out causing the level of NO3 to rise, I would closely watch the NH3, and NO2 levels while you don‘t have a pump for the skimmer.  You have been keeping the tank so clean for so long, that you could experience an Ammonia spike, sort of a mini cycle.  So with that in mind please do be careful.>
So, if the DOC’s were almost absent (too efficient skimming) then end
product of NO3 must also be less right?
<Not necessarily.  See above.  I will clarify, for the most part NO3 is the byproduct of a group of nitrifying bacteria.  These bacteria consume NO2 as part of their metabolic process, and the end result is NO3.  There is some NO2 in your system, and these bacteria are consuming it.  NO2 will not be picked up by the skimmer.  Just compound that could rot and eventually become NO2.  This is why the number is low and within acceptable ranges.>
One answer could be that when my PH went down, my nitrates went up (which I have not checked being too happy over the PH drop) ??
<Not likely.  The two are not related.>
Ps: How come you are awake at this time? It must be the middle of the night there.
<I usually am up at this time.  Brandon.>
Cheers
Ranjith

Post cycling pH jump  – 03/15/07
Hi crew,
<George>
I've been reading your FAQs even before I started my setup, and can only say thank you for all your efforts.  I humbly admit while I have kept a simple successful saltwater tank in my past for a few years, the one I am starting now is beginning to humble me more so.
<One of the qualities I seek for myself in this involvement>
Brief overview: 75 gallon hex tank, 95 pounds partly cured live rock (from a store my fellow reef nut has used for a decade) and 100 lbs live sand (Ocean Direct by Carib sea), sump (which I've used until my 24x12x17 refugium came in). Allowed it to cycle in tank and measured pH, refractive index kept at 1.23-1.24, amm, nitrite, and nitrate daily.  All went smoothly all along, not too much debris.  Used deionized tap water (large cartridge type system. no $ yet for an RO sys).  2 weeks ago, all readings finally rested at 0, pH steady at 8.2-8.4, sp. grav at 1.024.even nitrates, and almost simultaneously I began to see the beginnings of the diatom bloom.  Waited 5 more days to make sure readings stayed low, an then ordered cleanup crew. consisting of 10 Nassarius, 10 Ceriths, 5 Turbos, some micro stars and mini brittles (about 120 total), a bottle of live copepods and 2 scarlet cleaner shrimp as well as some rhodophyte and coin Caulerpa; 2-3 cups Chaetomorpha in the fuge (Inland Aquatics, and Live Aquaria source).  At the same time I began setting up a small acclimation/QT tank figuring by time that was done cycling I could start looking for fish.  Again, every single day I measured everything. and all parameters were in line.  The only negative seemed to be the diatoms starting to take off.
<Not necessarily harmful>
On the day all the inverts arrived, suddenly -i.e., within a 1 day period. the pH had jumped to 8.8.  I tested 3 times to be sure, tested the water I was using to make up the salt mix (which by the way is Reef Crystals by Kent).
Immediately instituted a 30% water change, then began acclimation over 3-4 hrs (used very very slow addition of 10% bag volume every 15 min or so).
All is still alive, but I can't stop the climbing pH.  I've been employing a stop gap measure of water changes and using pH down to slowly adjust (it's sulfuric acid, not phosphate based).  All the while Amm, Nitrite, Nitrate remain zero.  Any suggestions or clues or remedies?  100% water change?
<I would not fool with the pH here... I suspect this is an effect, perhaps artifactual of the algae (Chaetomorpha) addition... At any length, the pH will drift down of its own accord... with time, reductive events in the system. Don't panic! Bob Fenner>
Your advice is greatly appreciated !

Re: Post cycling pH jump   3/15/07
Cheers Bob.  I agree...I don't like altering acid-base chemistry by additives except on occasion, and this was one.  The pH bounce back suggested something more.
<Yes>
I've now noted the pH is the AM after a few hrs in the darkness is ~8.2...and after lights on a few hrs it presumably is climbing.
<Bingo>
Figured I should also do some testing of with/without aeration to see the dynamics there.  Seaclone skimmer has been running about 1 week also, producing a fair but not great yield of skimmate (yes...this will be replaced by a more efficient skimmer someday...maybe soon); thinking of adding airstone in sump section to test buffering and gas exchange (indirectly).  So I'll be wary of the O2/CO2 issue and carbonate/bicarb chemistry going on...without use of additives, I think I may be able to find a better balance.
<Time will tell>
Keep up the awesome & noble work.  You're reaching a wider audience than any classroom or publication could reach here!
George
<Ahh, the Net... what will come next? Something like "Star Trek"... and then? BobF>

Pic, pH swings, turning ones system from supplements to a reactor
Thanks for honoring me with the pic of the day!!!! That's cool. I noticed it while reading through all the new FAQ's. I'll take a pic of mine and send it to you as well--the coloration is a little different, but structurally it is identical. My secretary thought I had some kind of rare disease the other day when I told her I had a Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura! Ha ha.
<Hmm, maybe...>
I also had a thought on one of the FAQs. It's on there today--a very long and desperate sounding message from RL. I noted that the pH swing on this tank is 0.4 per day. Also, I noticed that their pH was actually HIGHER in the morning than in the evening (reversed from what you'd normally see.)
Unless there was something dripping overnight that would raise the pH during the darkness hours, what would cause this "reverse pH swing"?
<... A few things... for one... difficult to assess when people mean "first thing in AM"... as in, how long have their lights been on? Another possibility has to do with the types, amounts of marine macro-algae present... some "release" their buffering materials in the eve... elevating, stabilizing pH in the dark... Still another viable suggestion/explanation has to do with long-standing "supplement practices"... and "resuspension/solubilization" of materials... more and more to see the more one looks... Bob Fenner>
James A. Deets

pH and hydrogen sulfide 2/5/07
Kris Jones wrote:
> Dear Crew,
> Yes, another pH question.  I have read your archives and now have a window open as a test to see if my low pH will come up.  In trying to rule out all possible sources of my problems, I'm coming to the experts.  My tank's pH this morning was 7.9, dKH 12.2, Ca 3.25 ppm,
<Mmm... the Calcium... likely needs a nudge of the decimal point. The rest are okay actually>
> PO4 and NO3 in normal range.  I'm wondering if my 2 refugiums with mud beds of 2-3 inches would be producing a build-up of hydrogen sulfide contributing to my problems.
<Mmm... not likely, no. But this material does have reductive tendencies otherwise>
One refugium has Caulerpa and two mangroves flourishing (getting too tall for the tank)
<Take care that these don't break the container they're in...>
and the other
> only has Chaetomorpha growing.  The substrate of my tank is aragonite with continual turnover thanks to my sand-sifting stars and yellow head sleeper gobies.  I've ruled out CO2 as a culprit as my holding tank for my R/ODI water is constantly aerated with a pH about 9.  
<Mmm, I wouldn't be so fast here... do try just aerating some of the system water outdoors for an hour or so...>
> Yesterday I started adding Tropic Marin's Bio-Magnesium.  My LFS owner tested my water as well, but added the Mg test and my Mg was beyond low.
<Out of proportion (3:1) with calcium I take you to mean>
His rationalization is that I can't keep my calcium levels up because of my low Mg, hence my pH won't stay up either.
<Can be so>
Yes, I also dose with Kalkwasser.  BTW my show tank is a 210 gallon FOWLR.  I've also been fighting hair algae for months.  What are your thoughts on refugium mud beds and pH imbalance?
<Can be a factor, as stated>
As always, many, many thanks for your help.
> Jeff
<Mmm, there are a few other possibilities as to cause, and relief here... And have recently gone through, split-up the archived marine "pH and alkalinity" FAQs... I'd give these a once-over. Otherwise, I would not be overly concerned with the values you've presented, the steps you're taking for this FOWLR. Bob Fenner>

Alkalinity and pH
I have a quick question about alkalinity. Last Wednesday I brought home an Elegant Coral and a Open Brain Coral.
<both are placed on the sand bottom right? They must to survive... see archives here at WWM>
By the weekend the Elegant Coral had developed brown jelly disease and infected the open brain above it.
<above it suggests placement of at least on rock. Hmmm... free-living SPS corals become stressed and abraded when polyps cycles cause wounds and tears on live rock... leading to infection. May not have been your problem... could have been shipping/handling if they were new at LFS. Still... you sound like a new aquarist. Do consider that quarantine is necessary for all new fishes and corals (4 weeks in a separate tank). This prevent s the spread of such infection s to your whole tanks, saves lives and has many other benefits. Please visit the WetWebMedia archives on this topic as well. Also... buy a good reference book and read it to guide your purchases before bringing livestock home my friend>
I immediately sucked the disease off them and removed them from the tank. I fresh water dipped them and tried them again. Of course too late, the next day I removed them completely.
<indeed... it is highly contagious/virulent. Best treated in QT for any chance of survival and more so to protect the rest of the tank>
Since then (Sunday) I have been fighting a low PH.
<not caused by the corals of course... if anything, the waning pH of the system stressed the corals and was a catalyst>
About 7.8.
<Doh!>
I have been adding Kent PH Buffer. Today it is about 7.9.
The thing that scares me the most is my alkalinity is 16.32.
<holy cow!>
I checked twice yesterday which was over 18 and today it is 16.32 (DKH). What can I do to lower this and raise the PH at the same time?  
<dilution is the solution to pollution: water changes. And if your Ca is low (under 375ppm here), use Kalkwasser to raise pH without raising Alk directly>
I haven't been adding any 2 part calcium additives at all. Just the Tropic Marin Calcium.
<sounds like things have gotten out of kilter. Several large water changes and then resume with Kalk/buffer or 2-part mix (but shake very well before every dose... critical!)>
Thanks, Ian Roff
<best regards, Anthony>

Low Ph, High dKH
Hello, first time here and I have read and read on your sites, thanks for all the information - really quite amazing what you have provided here, a thousand thank yous.  I have a question; first, my water parameters:
Ph: day 7.9, night 7.75
dKH: 16
Ca: 380
Mg: 1230
NH3: 0
N02: 0
N03: .5
Salinity: 1.024
I have a 24 gal.. nanocube with 7 corals, 1 anemone, 6 hermits, 2 snails, and no fish. - 104W of CF - Water changes 25%/week
25 lbs. of CaribSea live aragonite
45 lbs. Fiji and Tonga live rock
2 power. heads (Rio 50 and MiniJet w/Hydor) in addition to the one that the system comes with
The tank has been up for 7 weeks now and cycled in the first three weeks
My problem:
I cannot get the ph to 8.0, let alone 8.3, even with Kent buffer or Seachem builder, however, I have had dKH off the charts (high)
I am using Salifert test kits and have tested them with LFS water to ensure they are accurate . . . I am using an American Marine pinpoint Ph meter calibrated just one week ago and have confirmed the low ph
<Yes... most due to the "break in" processes... the decomposition of a good deal of your live rock life... the small volume, lack of a skimmer...>
Each time I use the reef builder or other buffer to increase ph, it goes up for about 4 hours and then back down, however my dKH just keeps going up (1.5 ml or 1 1/2 plungers of reagent to turn color if you are familiar with Salifert test kit making it anywhere from 16-24 dKH, guesstimate since I'm not sure if that's how it works once you go through the first plunger)
<Is how it works>
I had been using Catalina water, so I did a 15 gal. water change with Tropic Marine mixed at LFS to see if that would help.
<It will... in time>
No one at several LFS stores can figure this one out and I have tried to open up the house thinking the CO2 in the house was too high and no effect . . . I was going to get an air pump to start trying to oxygenate the tank more and see if that helps . . . just thought I would ask for some help first . . . this has been going on for 4 weeks now and is a real drag . . . corals still look good, but I'm afraid they will start to decline in time given the low ph . . . and fish or other helpful inverts, forget it.  
<... this system has been up for seven weeks... with an anemone mixed in with other stinging-celled life? Dangerous... in such a small volume>
I used to have a 60 gal but had to break it down when we moved, never had these kinds of problems, making me realize that smaller tanks are more difficult to monitor/maintain?
<Indeed they are>
HELP!
Thanks
Bill
<Due to the newness, the livestock listed, the small size of the system, I would just continue nudging the water quality along with the TM water, careful addition of just pH buffer (sans alkaline earth components)... likely something with just sodium carbonate and bicarbonate (no calcium, magnesium)... go slow here Bill... all could crash. Do add a skimmer if you haven't already... Bob Fenner>

Water parameters out of whack
Hello Crew, how you guys doing today?
<Mighty fine, thanks>
Well I decided to go back into the aquarium hobby after being away for about a year and everything had being going well until I started having some problems with my PH.
This is what happened. I filled up my 380 gallon aquarium with some Oceanic salt and let it mix in for a week, then I added some crushed coral and 200+ lbs of Live Rock. I noticed that PH was low ~ 7.7, therefore I started adding super buffer dKH and brought it up to around 8.2 but it started going back down therefore I kept adding Kent super buffer DKH until I had poured 2 pounds of Super Buffer DKH in a week's time and my PH was still hovering around 8.0 - 8.1 . Believing that my PH monitor was off I tested the PH with anoth