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FAQs on the Powder Blue Tang Systems
Related Articles: Powder Blue Tangs,
Acanthurus Tangs, Related FAQs:
Powder Blue Tangs 1,
Powder Blue Tangs 2, Powder Blue
Tang Identification, PBT Behavior,
PBT Compatibility, PBT Selection,
PBT Feeding, PBT Disease,
PBT Reproduction, Acanthurus Tangs 1, Acanthurus
Tangs 2, Acanthurus Tangs 3,
Acanthurus ID, Acanthurus Behavior,
Acanthurus Compatibility, Acanthurus
Selection, Acanthurus Systems,
Acanthurus Feeding, Acanthurus
Disease, Acanthurus Reproduction,
A. sohal, A. nigricans & A. japonicus,
Surgeons
In General, Tang ID,
Selection, Tang
Behavior,
Compatibility, Systems,
Feeding, Disease, |
Large, well-established, under-stocked, lots of live rock, high
water quality, great circulation, high DO... |
Acanthurus leucosternon mistake Re: Powder Blue Tang mistake
(Acanthurus leucosternon) 11/29/08 Hi WWM Crew!, <Jessy
here.> I am fairly new to the saltwater fish hobby (just over half a
year) and I am afraid That I made a mistake by purchasing a small
specimen of Acanthurus leucosternon. <Many have my friend> I
heard they are tricky to get eating and should be left in the ocean.
<Not so sure I agree with this totally> My tank is a ninety gallon
tank with a Pterois volitans that is about three or four inches long,
Arothron nigropunctatus that is about three inches long, Echidna
nebulosa about five of six inches, and a Richardson's eel (I am
currently not aware of it's scientific name, if you could give me its
name that would be excellent.) that's about six inches long. <Mmm not
too savvy on eels, perhaps one of the other crew could chime in> The
pet store I bought him/her from said they were as easy to keep as any
other tang, and it was a spur of the moment type thing, and he seemed to
be priced really well for thirty dollars at two to three inches in
length-that's over half less then liveaquaria.com which I assumed had
some excellent deals in the past. <Indeed that is an AMAZING price!>
Anyways I put him in today after being quarantined and he seemed really
happy and content. At first I thought the Pterois volitans was going to
get him but he was just curious and he doesn't even care that he is in
the tank now. He seemed really healthy, swimming around and eating some
of the algae from the rocks and seaweed from my veggie clip. I read from
one of your FAQ's that they really need a 300+gallon tank (this was my
fault again, reading that article after I bought him) but I plan to keep
them in a 180 gallon when all the fish get bigger, then I eventually
wanted to do an indoor pond thing that's at least 500+ gallons, so I am
good on the adult size of the fish. Here is a link of for the pond/pool
I had an idea of setting up in the future, I got this idea from a forum
monsterfishkeepres.com:
http://www.target.com/Round-Prism-Pool-Package/dp/B0001E4KN8/sr=1-15/qid=122
7927914/ref=sr_1_15/191-6831975-9483921?ie=UTF8&index=target&rh=k%3Aabove%20
ground%20pool&page=1. It might be an over kill but then there will be
enough room for the tang, and maybe some other fish. What do you think
of the idea? Also, what else would you recommend feeding the tang? He is
eating the dried seaweed on his first day in the main tank, so
everything seems fine. I am just worried i will not be able to properly
care for this beautiful fish. <Will, I would say that you CAN have
this tang in a smaller tank than 300 while it is growing. But, I
wouldn't keep it in a tank less than 6ft in length minimum, 8ft
preferred. A ninety gallon is too small this fish except in its smallest
form. Personally, I've not experienced any issues with feeding these
tangs. As with most all tangs, they'll accept Nori and frozen food quite
readily. Its the ich you've got to worry about. These fish are extremely
susceptible to it, even more than other tangs. I would say that the 180
will be a good home for it at this size and upgrade when you can and
when the fish gets bigger and more aggressive. Thanks WWM Crew, Will
<No prob. Jessy>
Tang families (sic, genera) and tank size 2/19/08 Mr
Fenner, I would first like to note that I have read several of your
online publications recently and found the detail to be of great value.
Thank you for your efforts in relaying information to marine hobbyists
such as myself. <A pleasure to share; a hope to relate information of
worth> I have a question about the various families of tangs in
relation to their suitable home aquarium size. I read through your
documentation on wetwebmedia.com and there are only a few noted tank
volumes recommended as a minimum for the families; <Ah, genera>
the Acanthurus, Ctenochaetus, and Zebrasoma all note a guideline size
starting at 50 gallons. I was wondering if the data is current, <Mmm,
not really is likely a reasonable response. Having been a content
provider in the trade and hobby for... is it really more than forty
years?... much of my in-print work is woefully dated... and worse...
extant w/o this note> and if perhaps you had some additional
recommendations or adjusted recommendations for tank size for any of the
5 major families on the site? <Well... for most small species of
Acanthurus, all the Bristlemouth and Sailfin species, really a fifty
gallon volume that is otherwise not crowded... will suffice... that is,
with otherwise good maintenance, nutrition... keep these species alive,
healthy for something like a "normal" average maximum life span...
However... Some Acanthurus get quite large (saw an absolutely gorgeous
group of five A. blochii yesterday diving off Crescent Bay/Manta Ray
Cove here on HI's Big Island... I do hope my video of them came out...
and I do wish I knew enough re editing, placing such on this/these
devices that I could immediately (if not sooner) share this with you...
But these were all more than a foot long body length (more with their
caudals)... These would need hundreds of gallons... Naso and Prionurus
species likewise need hundreds of gallons... systems of at least a
couple metres/six foot "run"/length to be happy, grow, survive for any
real period of time... Oh, and Paracanthurus... should not be kept in
anything smaller than a 75... It should go w/o saying, but am always
aware that many less-sophisticated folk may read this... that "bigger is
better" for sure... behaviorally and physiologically with these and all
other fish groups.> There are several message boards that I frequent,
of which they all have a group of people who state that the minimum tank
size for most tangs would be something with a 6' length, and nothing
smaller than a 75 or even 90 gallon for Zebrasomas or Ctenochaetus. Is
there any data that supports specific sizes for these tangs? <Mmm,
anecdotal experience mostly... There are historical, institutional
longevity records for some species... but these are almost always kept
in vastly larger systems... But I've kept, personally can account for
the most popular species care in the stated volumes by our and other
service companies...> I only ask out of curiosity, personally, I have
a 180g tank and have been in the hobby for a couple years, but would
much prefer to gather all the data that I can as a reference. Thank you
for your time, it is much appreciated. Alex Liffick <Thank you for
your interest, asking. I do ask in turn that when you have confidence,
time, that you consider joining our WWM Crew in aiding others. Cheers,
Bob Fenner> Large Fish Tanks/Tangs/Stocking - 09/07/06
Hi Bob, <<EricR here today...Bob's off to Jamaica for a B-day dive
treat for his wife...and who knows, maybe some dreadlocks for himself
while he's at it...>> Writing to you about a concern of how big my
fish could get. <<Mmm...usually quite easy to find/determine at
fishbase.org>> I have a 75-gallon reef-type setup that is a fish
only tank. <<...? Isn't that a contradiction of terms? <grin> >>
I recently purchased a T5 lighting system for this tank thinking that I
was going to turn it into a reef, but I really like the fish I have so I
was thinking otherwise. <<Ahh, okay>> The fish include a Flagfin
angel about 4 inches, a powder blue tang about 3 inches, <<This tang
is not easily kept under the best of conditions, and tank is not big
enough for this fish>> a yellow tang about 4 inches, two skunk
clowns, a Potter's angel about 3 inches, and a Randall’s goby. If I
were to move into a larger tank would a 120-gallon be good for these
fish or is it to short? <<A six-foot tank would be better, more
swimming space for those active tangs...though in this case this is more
an issue with the Powder-Blue than the Yellow>> I would like to use
this lighting system which is the same length or should I just get some
of these fish out? <<Remove the Powder-Blue and I think the rest
would do fine in the 120>> Thanks, Ron. <<Regards, EricR>>
Schooling PB Tangs 8/25/06 Bob, <Scott> Re - this
statement - "On the issue of how many, one is the magic number for all
but the more huge (thousands of gallons) systems." My client has a
strong affinity for the Powder Blue over all other tangs. Would his
1300g (8x8x30) <Neat... but man oh man... not easy to work in!>
be large enough to keep a small school in your opinion? <Mmm, yes>
And if so, how many would you keep? <Three> It's a very, very
decked out system and will be peaceful and understocked (by normal
aquarium standards). They would be the fish showpiece of the aquarium,
next to only a Naso Tang. Scott <Could try five, but I'd go with
three... that are super-clean... at least thoroughly dipped/bathed... Am
sure you know the route. Bob Fenner> Frogspawn Coral and a Fish
fight... Euphyllia beh. and PB Tang sys. Hello Everyone.
<James> I saw something strange in the tank this morning and I will
do my best to describe it on the frogspawn colony. First off, only one
outcrop did this and the others on the branch did not. It seemed to
balloon at the bottom (where attached) with the polyps retracted. This I
have not seen before as normally they just retract polyps if they are
touched or at night. This branch all were getting morning sunlight
though not direct bright light. I never have seen this before and can
only describe it as ballooning at the bottom. Do you have any idea what
this behavior is? Spawning maybe??? =) <Perhaps> Part two
comes with some surprise from me. I introduced my powder blue tang to
the main tank last night and it was not well received by the Foxface?!?
<Mmm, not unusual... the two families are closely related... use similar
niches...> Now, okay, they are both surgeon fish but they are not
the same species, as with Zebrasomas for instance; so if I mixed a
yellow and purple tang together I should certainly expect trouble. The
Foxface has been a very peaceful and easy going fish and has got along
very well with everything in the tank thus far. I thought more of it as
the big (bigger now and compared to the others anyway) yellow coward. It
was strange, this fish swam over and immediately started at the powder
blue with its spines and they went at each other for a little while
before I shut the lights completely (I just couldn't catch the P.B.T.
around all the live rock to remove it). This morning they are on
opposite sides of the tank and I switched the lights off rather than
have the lights come on with the timers so I can see how they interact
when I get back home. I figured I would have had to move the
firefish to the 24 gallon and planned on it (just too passive). I
thought the royal Gramma and flame angel would both adapt and thus far
seem to. Work issues and travel kept me from this introduction sooner so
the qt period for the PBT was about 3.5 weeks rather than the 2.5 I
wanted. <Longer is better here> I still have the 55
gallon tank in addition to the 24 gallon (was just used for QT for the
PBT) plus the main tank 75 megaflow with a 20 gallon RDP sump/refugium.
I really do not want to put either fish in the 24gallon as it is way to
small long term. Both fish are marked from their little tiff. Size wise
the Foxface is larger by about an inch. <Good. Better> Had the
aggression started from the PBT I would not be as surprised. I did not
think Foxy had this in her. I do not like seeing her mottled and unhappy
in the corner of the tank. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Re-setup of the 55 gallon tank won't be impossible just difficult and
more expensive as I will need a new filter, light and protein skimmer...
I moved these to the 75 setup in place of the 55 though I kept that tank
and stand. Wow, surprises... Thank you. James Zimmer <I
would just wait this out at this point. Likely they will "learn to get
along"... Acanthurus leucosternon needs more space than a 75... Bob
Fenner>
Tang mixing question 1/14/06 All,
<Derek> As I've only had a reef tank for about a year, I've greatly
enjoyed reading your books and website - much good information and
counsel! <Good to hear/read> Now that you're properly primed, I
have a fairly basic question regarding two tangs. In brief, I would
like to put a Power Blue in with a Sailfin (Zebrasoma veliferum) in
my big tank. <Can be done> I have a one year old 30 gal reef
tank and a 2 month old 220 gal reef tank. The 4" Power Blue has been in
the 30 gal tank for about 8 months - and is doing very well, if a bit
cramped. I introduced the 3.5-4" Sailfin to the large tank about a
week ago. <Mmmm> Fish-wise, also in the big tank, I have:
-mated pair of maroon clowns -coral beauty -3 Banggai cardinals
(or bad guy cardinals as my 4yo daughter calls them) -3 Chromis
By the 5-gallons-per-square-inch-of-fish measure, I know I'm already
over my mark. . . Never the less, the advice I've been given is that
I should be fine putting the PBT in with everyone else. The argument
I've heard is that the PBT and the Sailfin are different shapes, so they
will cohabitate no problem. <Likely so... with a bit of periodic
jousting... especially at first> Is this bunk, or is there actually
a legit argument there? Thank you in advance, Derek <Would
be better if the larger communal system were a bit more aged (a few
months), but there is the question of present crowding alternatively...
Bob Fenner>
Torn Between two tangs 10-12-05 Dear Crew,
<<Hello>> I have a 180 g FOWLR that had been a closed system for
quite some time until this summer when after a 4 wk quarantine I added
an adult emperor angel. <<QT should always be a minimum of 4 weeks
and I personally suggest a minimum of 6 weeks on tangs and angels as
they like to harbor "nasties".>> The 180 had a powder blue and a Naso
tang, both beautiful fish. A purple tang and Foxface that I have had for
8-9 years were looking like they were on their last leg ( probably
old age , I guess ) and I decided to open the system to new inhabitants.
Unfortunately, despite using a QT the tangs look like they came down
with crypt. I pulled all fish from the system, treated then in QT's with
copper for 3 weeks and let the display lie fallow for 5 weeks.
<<Again as a general rule, a tank should be left fallow for 6-8 weeks
and temp. should be raised as high as tolerable for current inhabitants
to increase the rate of the parasite life cycle.>> I have since
re-introduced all of the fish except for the tangs. For 4 weeks since
the 180 has been with fish the system looks great. My tangs are also
doing well while still in the QT except for some HLLE that they acquired
while copper treated. The Naso has a few scattered papules on the
face and head and body that copper had no effect on ( ? HLLE ) but is
otherwise doing great. The Naso and powder blue are in a 55 g tank
together. The papules on the Naso are whitish and much 4-5 times
larger than what is seen with crypt, this has been a chronic condition
for this fish but it has not been that noticeable nor has it affected
the fish's activity eating etc. Now I am faced with a dilemma :
Should I dare re-introduce the tangs into the display. I fear that tangs
are very "parasite prone" Currently the 180 has an adult emperor 6". a
majestic 4-5" Foxface 5" Heniochus 4" a couple of clowns and one damsel,
250lbs of LR with plenty of hiding places. Probably no good answer to
this question, but I thought I would try asking. <<The best answer I
can give is; if you don't feel comfortable doing it, then don't do it.
You are correct in your thinking that tangs are prone to infection. My
advice would be to pick one and give the other to a friend or set up the
55 for the outsider.>> Jimmy <<TravisM>><<<I actually am going to
make a comment... both species listed here are unsuitable for a four
foot long system (should be in six foot minimum)... the mucus marks on
the Naso are likely "just" resultant from stress... RMF>>>
Powder Blue Tangle! I recently purchased a powder blue tang,
despite my better judgment from what I heard about the difficulty in
caring for this species. System: 125 gal (fish only) 1.023
salinity Temp: 76 0.2 ammonia (a little high, maybe due to adding
new fish?) <Yes- too high...Something is amiss with your husbandry!
Maybe the tank is a bit overcrowded-possibly too much waste product...
Do re-check...Review skimming, filtration, water changes, feeding
practices. This needs to be corrected IMMEDIATELY! Do not even think of
adding anything else until this problem is corrected! Sorry to lecture-
but I urge you to jump on this immediately! Your fishes lives' depend on
this.> Nitrite ok <Assuming that means "undetectable"- right?>
Tank mates: Fiji puffer 3" Naso tang <That Naso will get HUGE-
be prepared to move him to a larger home at some point, okay?> 4"
orange spotted rabbit 4" Wrasse I've had him for about 1-1/2 weeks
now. <Please tell me that you quarantined him...Please?> I saw him
eat quite vigorously at the fish store (flakes) so I thought he was
pretty healthy, but I did notice some scratching. <Umm- that was a
mistake, IMO. Never purchase a sick fish, no matter how well he is
eating...Especially if you don't quarantine!> 1st day I took him home
and gave a freshwater dip prior to putting him into the main tank since
I don't have an QT set up. <Please invest in one- it's well worth the
minor expense and effort! At least you dipped the fish, that's a
starting point!> That evening I fed him, but he didn't really eat
2nd day morning he began eating more. 3rd day he was eating well and
looked good. Swimming around the tank quickly (not flashing)
Continued to eat well (Mysis shrimp and formula 2) About 4 days ago
he slowed his eating again. Won't touch the Mysis shrimp, very
selectively eats the small specs of flakes and formula 2 that I feed
them. Swimming also slowed down and sometimes hides in a little cave in
the tank. I tried the Nori, but he doesn't seem to go for that
either. Observation: No sign of scratching No sign of sores
No sign of cloudy eyes No sign of heavy breathing Some patchy
signs of slight discoloration on the body, I think from when he was
scratching No signs of white spots on him. No sign of bullying
<That ammonia reading has something to do with this- I'll bet on that!
Re-check all water and environmental parameters again> >Question:
1) I was looking on the website a read about the powder blues and
noticed most of the people with the powder blue have a reef tank. Can a
powder blue live in a fish only tank with no live rock? <As long as
you provide it with stable conditions, proper food, and plenty of room,
you certainly can maintain the fish in this type of setup> 2) Why do
you think the fish slowed his eating could it be the ammonia
level? That's the only thing I can see and think of that is making him
unhappy? <Absolutely...Plus, whatever illness he might have had at
the store could be re-emerging due to the stress of the ammonia
level...> 3) What other food should I try to feed him? Should I get
some live rock for him to eat? <I'd try a macroalgae, such as
Gracilaria ("Ogo"). Tangs go nuts over this stuff, and it's highly
nutritious!> 4) I know the fish store I go to doesn't sell the
Caulerpa since I think they said it was banned in California since
people were dumping it starting growing out of control in the
wildlife. Is there another type of algae I should get for him to eat
and start a refugium? <I'd go for the Gracilaria...Try Indo Pacific
Sea Farms...> I'm beginning to think I made a mistake by getting
him. He's causing me a lot of stress worrying about him. I would
appreciate any advice and information you can provide me on caring for
this guy. Thanks Maurice <Well, Maurice- don't be so hard on
yourself. Yes- you made some mistakes, and yes-there may be some
problems. But with immediate attention to the problems at hand, you can
achieve success with this fish. If you've learned something from this,
it will not be a wasted lesson. The most important thing when attempting
to keep any fish, particularly a fish with a dubious reputation for
hardiness, is to read and learn everything that you possibly can about
the fish, and prepare for it's care BEFORE you make the purchase. I
think you have learned that now. However, the fish needs to be removed
and observed for possible illness. You really need to get a handle on
the ammonia problem. I know that you can do it. I'm sorry that the fish
is going through this-but it's obvious you care, so get to it! He's
depending on you. Do read up on quarantine, disease treatment, etc. on
the WetWebMedia.Com site and take action. Good luck! Hang in there!
Regards, Scott F> A few questions (Powder Blue Tangs)
Hello, it has been awhile since I've written in, but that's mostly due
to the others who ask questions before I know that its the question I
needed to ask. <outstanding... the FAQ system works! <smile>>
Thank you guys so much for providing us all with this vast database of
pet-fishing knowledge. <our pleasure> Well, a few questions this
time.. I have a 58g reef tank (80g total water volume, including sumps)
with 96 watt powercompacts (36" long tank.) My current filtration is:
bio balls (wet / dry) , a protein skimmer that collects about a full cup
of liquid every other day, and a bit over 100 lbs of live rock.
Inhabitants are: white ribbon eel, maroon clown, bubble anemone, 2
peppermint shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, a clam I've never identified,
and as of today, a powder blue tang. I know everyone says it's a bad
idea to buy one, but I've resisted the urge for over two years.. the one
I purchased is about 4.5" long, and is very fat, happy and colorful.
<one great problem aside from all shipping and acclimation problems
notorious with this creature is that they come from very dynamic areas
of a reef (surging reef crest action, even). As such... they need very
low long tanks with tremendous water flow. They will stress and suffer
in time without it. Some respond so severely as to even pace the tank
which many aquarists recognize from seeing in store tanks (and their
own) with fish such as Powder blue tangs, Nasos, spotted tangs, etc. I
honestly think it is unlikely that your new tang will fare well in a 58
gall tank... all odds are against him, sorry to say> It was the first
one I had seen without shipping damage or other tell-tale signs of
collection abuse. As far as my water parameters, my salinity reads about
1.024-1.025 depending on when I changed the water last. To prevent
problems with disease and the powder blue, should my salinity be high or
low? <nothing out of the ordinary after a good 4 week QT to screen
for major parasites. Besides, your eel and shrimp will suffer with low
salinity> Different LFS' have told me different answers to that one.
I know my temp should be high, and it is currently 82.. is that high
enough? too high? <too high... 78-80 is fine> Ammo/nitrite/ph are
dead on, calc is 450ish, nitrate slightly visible (20-30ppm depending on
when water was last changed... should I remove the media from my trickle
filter? is that done all at once or slowly?) <with enough live rock,
good skimming and regular water changes... your tank (medium bio-load)
is a candidate for removing bio-balls to reduce nitrate production. Do
so slowly... portions over an 8 week period> other than that
everything has gone great.. no additives put in this tank except for
food for over a year now. The tank has been established nearly two
years, and never has had a disease in it to my knowledge.) So on that
basis I went ahead and purchased the healthy fish.. hope he does okay..
will try and get him to feed on Mysis/krill and seaweed (any seaweed
type suggestions? so many to choose from these days..) <plain sushi
Nori from an Asian grocery store is a good start (like sea veggies from
fish store but cheaper)> Also, I've never figured out what kind of
clam I have.. I think perhaps a Derasa.. how are clams identified? From
the pictures on your site I'd say it looks like a Tridacna Derasa.. it
is about 3.5" in shell width (purchased it at about 2.5") and the mantle
is a deep brownish/pink color with lightened blotches (looks like
camouflage done up in brownish/pink) <many good pics, references on
net... also Daniel Knops great Giant Clam book. Derasa is pretty
distinct with flat smooth shell and limited color mantle... if yours
looks like the pics, then probably a derasa> anyways, my question
regarding the clam is.. it always has spit out stringers ( I have it in
a low water flow area of the tank near the overflow intake, so it isn't
stagnant or anything) that seem to hang about the clam until I brush
them away by moving water near the clam.. which closes it up.) What are
these? <likely mucus from this heavy filter feeder... derasa clams
tolerate and favor higher particulates then most clams> should I
leave them be? <yep> (should I stop putting parenthesis inside
more parenthesis?(?))) :) <("what do you mean?" (says the voice of
parenthetical levity (in soliloquy)))> Thanks so much in advance,
you're always a ton of help, as is the FAQ's on the site. <you are
quite welcome> Regards, Bill Hammond <kindly, Anthony>
Powder Blue / Pearly Jawfish Hi Bob, Got a couple of questions
to ask if you don't mind :) <<I don't think Bob minds at all, I get to
answer the email... I hope YOU don't mind ;-) >> I have a 50 gallon
reef, with ample filtration, great water conditions and water movement.
Until last week, the only fish residents were to false Percs. When I
went to the fish store last week, I saw this little 2-3 inch powder blue
in a really bad tank, overcrowded by a lot of other fish, many of which
were tangs and since it was so small, it was getting into really bad
shape. I couldn't help it and decided to rescue the poor little guy. I
know what I have isn't exactly suited for a powder blue but if it does
happen to make it pass the mysterious death period of the first 2
months, I do plan to go to a bigger tank later on as it grows. <<If you
do make it through this period, I would get the larger tank before it
grows - large quarters are necessary to make this tang feel
comfortable.>> Right now, it is doing much better than it was in that
nasty tank before. Its body is rich blue and head is deep back, as
compared to the pale colors it was exhibiting before. However, it only
excepts very little bit of the food I offer it so far (Formula 2,
Formula 1, brine shrimp soaked in vitamins, <<you should really use
Mysis shrimp instead of brine - brine shrimp, regardless of gut loading
and vitamin soaking are bunk.>> and rather spends his time picking off
algae from the rocks, rear glass panel and the sand/crush coral. <<Yes,
and you should probably try to substitute this with algae based foods,
dried seaweed, Nori, etc.>> It is not showing any signs of emaciation as
it is quite robust. Will he begin to eat more of what I offer him soon?
Also does the powder blue eat hair filamentous algae like soft hair
algae (I previously had a yellow tang and it ate all that hair algae up
with a gusto). <<I would say this is different from tang to tang, but
yours may find an appetite for it in time...>> In addition, sometimes it
swims around the tank exhibiting the lines going down the blue part of
his body (signs of aggression), I think perhaps looking for a fight?
<<These color changes can mean all kinds of things, surprise, stress,
aggression, depression, sleepy-time, etc.>> Is this normal for a new
addition (4 days)? <<Well, most fish take weeks to adjust to a new tank
so... I'd say the flashing is normal for a fish who is feeling a little
out of join in a new tank.>> Lastly, I added a pearly Jawfish at the
same time and this fish is quite comical. Although I hardly see it, I do
enjoy watching this fish more than I thought. Its already dug itself a
nice burrow with and continues to do stuff with the sand/crush coral and
stirring up the sand bed. Yesterday, it ate for the first time
several brine shrimps since I saw it peaking its head out from the
burrow......When do you think this guy will come out a little bit more
and eat a bit more? <<Well, these fish are known for staying mostly out
of sight. In the burrow most of the time. Will likely only leave the
hole for food if it doesn't drift by.>> Will it do okay with the powder
blue in the tank? <<I think it will do fine.>> It really seems to me
that the Powder Blue scares it when it swims by and it quickly zooms
back in the tunnel. <<Well, the Jawfish is likewise a bit uncomfortable
with the new surrounds. Give it some time.>> Does this mean that I have
to get rid of one of them? <<No.>> Thanks Bob, sorry for the long e-mail
and I look forward to your reply. Sincerely, Jimmy <<Cheers, J
-- >>
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