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FAQs about Rabbitfish Selection Related Articles: Rabbitfishes,
Related FAQs: Siganids 1,
Siganids 2,
Rabbitfish Identification, Rabbitfish
Behavior, Rabbitfish Compatibility,
Rabbitfish Systems,
Rabbitfish Feeding,
Rabbitfish Disease,
Rabbitfish Reproduction, |
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Foxface Inquiry, sel....
03/19/2008
Hello WWM Crew,
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
As always, I'd like to start by thanking the entire crew at WWM for the
invaluable support over the years. I'd have left this hobby (and my hair) years
ago if not for this site. My question today is an easy one regarding livestock
compatibility.
<<thanks for the comments>>
I've looked through the FAQ's regarding compatibility and I have a pretty good
idea of what the response is going to be, but I wanted to get feedback before I
move forward with my plans. I currently have a fairly mature 3 year old 90gal
FOWLR with a 40 gal sump, for a total system volume of around 110 gal. The
system is doing well with good coralline growth, copepods, very little algae,
etc. I'm lightly stocked for a system of this size (at least in my opinion):
<<A nice system indeed>>
- No coral
- various snails: Turbos, Ceriths, Bumblebees, etc.
- 1x adult Tomato Clown
- 2x adult Firefish
- 1x juvenile Lawnmower Blenny
- 2x juvenile Green Chromis
<<Good stocking list>>
I'd like to remain understocked, but would like to add one more specimen to the
system, preferably something a little more on the "showcase" side to fill things
out. I'd also like something relatively reef-safe, as I might move into keeping
some beginner corals in the future. I really, really like the look of the
Foxface, specifically the Magnificent and the Bicolor.
<<No issues with your current stock, however, both are the same regarding a
little caution when housed with LPS and some soft corals as there "may" be a
tendency to nip. However, a good diet / feeding regime it should be fine.
However, the caution given cannot be discarded>>
I've researched thoroughly and am able to provide the proper husbandry for this
fish, but my concern was compatibility with the other fish in the system. From
reading online and talking to other marine enthusiasts, I don't expect to have
too many issues. Every specimen is different, but in your opinion, can I expect
any general issues with the fish in this system? Any big worries on the (future)
coral side? I find the venomous spines just a tad disconcerting, but it's not a
deal breaker for me.
<<I don't see any issues at all with your other stock>>
Lastly, the Foxface article on WWM mentions that aside from a freshwater dip,
normal quarantine procedures are not necessary for this fish. I follow the dip /
month-long quarantine procedure almost religiously, so I'm wary when someone
suggests it's not necessary. However, I don't have experience with this species,
so you'd be able to comment on that better than I can.
<<I would say its necessary for ANY fish, and must be done>>
Comments / thoughts welcome.
Thanks again! - Drew
<<Thanks for the questions Drew, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Stocking Advice...125g FOWLR
– 10/18/07
Hello crew and thanks for all the great advice.
<<Always welcome>>
Eric R. has been helping me with stocking advice so if you could steer my
question in his direction that would be great
<<I am here...>>
if not here is what I have: 125g FOWLR with a 4" Assasi Trigger, 3" Flame Angel
and the last fish in was a 4" White Cheek Tang. After researching the FAQs and a
few other sources, I have decided to go with a Rabbitfish and wanted to know if
the Scribbled Rabbitfish has any drawbacks versus other Rabbitfish.
<<Not in my opinion...Siganus doliatus is an excellent choice>>
From what I have read this species seems suited for the tank size, aggressive
tank mates and is an excellent consumer of algae.
<<Am in agreement... In fact, I have a pair in my 375g reef display (this is
also a species of Siganid that will “pair up” as adults)>>
Any negative aspects, other than the venom, that I am missing?
<<This fish “will” require supplemental feedings of algae/vegetable matter along
with whatever else you feed your fishes (hopefully Spectrum pelleted food is
part of this repertoire). Mine “love” “green” Sea Veggies offered by Two Little
Fishies...with an occasional (twice weekly, or so) soak in Selcon or Vita-Chem
before feeding also proving beneficial>>
Thanks again.
<<Quite welcome. EricR>>
Dictyota control and Rabbitfish - 05/02/07
I am a loyal reader of the WWM site, and have gained a tremendous
amount of expert advice and guidance, paying no more than a couple of
mouse clicks and some key strokes.
For that reason, I feel obligated to share something that I have come
across, hoping to give a small piece back to the WWM community.
<I/we thank you>
I have a 125 Gallon reef tank, with 2 bubble tip anemones (was one,
split a few months back), 1 large branching Acropora , 1 large Montipora
, 1 orange plate coral, 1 green open brain, 1 clam, several branches of
frogspawn, and other assorted small corals. Also swimming are 2 Solomon
Island Black Perculas , 1 royal Gramma , 1 Kole Tang, and 2 clown gobys.
About 6 months ago, I started to get an algae bloom of what I would
later learn was the dreaded Dictyota . Unaware of its nature, I tried
to remove the Dictyota , but this only made things worse, spreading like
wildfire around the tank. I was removing tons of it every week, but I
was only managing to keep it short, it was covering about 2/3 of the
visible rock in the tank. I only managed to keep corals from being
choked out by siphoning off chunks of the Dictyota that surrounded each
one 2X a week.
I did my research on line, where urchins, diadema , and sea hares were
all rumored to eat the stuff….they didn’t. The owner of my LFS said
that he knew no way of ridding the tank, short of a 2 month lights out
period (that would not be so good for the corals).
Naso tangs were also rumored to eat the Dictyota, and in fact on ate
some at the store so I brought him home. He started to eat the stuff,
but then after one day, refused to eat anymore, and he died a couple of
weeks later. If seemed to me that he may have died from eating the
algae, which I hear can be noxious.
Not wanting to kill another fish, I decided on a last resort, something
I had seen written somewhere obliquely on a posting. I bought a
two-barred Rabbitfish . He didn’t eat anything for the first two days
in the tank. On day three, I saw him nibbling a little on the algae.
Over the next three weeks, I saw him actively swimming, and nipping only
once in while. Yet his belly seemed full, near bursting. It has now
been only a month, and the Dictyota is all but completely gone. I
cannot believe I have my tank back.
I still am in shock that 8 months worth of frustration is over. It
seems impossible to me that this tiny wonder of about 3 inches ate what
must of amounted to 8 lbs of algae or more.
With the algae gone (hopefully never to return), I now have a hero of a
fish, who instead of dining on Dictyota , will enjoy a life of Nori ,
greens, herbivore preparations, and protein.
I am not sure if you have a forum for this,
<Oh yes... both for Rabbitfish Selection and Brown Macrophyte control>
but please share this with your readers. Searches for info on the
subject brought about frustratingly pessimistic analyses. I want to let
people know that Dictyota can be defeated, and all it takes is a three
inch lawnmower called the two-barred Rabbitfish .
Brant Goldsmith
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Caulerpa takeover, biological controls 11/21/06
Dear Crew:
<Hey Paul, JustinN here with you>
I want to introduce an herbivore in my 75-gallon reef aquarium to
combat an outbreak of Caulerpa racemosa.
<Mmm, I believe this to be one of the Caulerpa sp. that is typically less than
palatable to most herbivores.>
I've heard that a tang or rabbit fish may be my best choice but I am concerned
with the small size of my tank. I may want to introduce a juvenile fish and
remove it before it outgrows my tank.
<Can be done, but its better in my opinion to get something you would prefer to
keep, and could happily live its life in the settings.>
I understand that the juveniles of some species will not graze on Caulerpa. A
Reefkeeping article (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/hcs3/index.php)
states, "filamentous algae will require a juvenile rabbitfish while Caulerpa
species and other tougher, meatier algae will require adults."
- What species of juvenile tang or rabbit fish will graze on Caulerpa?
- What Caulerpa-grazing tang or rabbit fish have the smallest adult size and can
best tolerate a small tank?
Thanks very much,
Paul.
<While your tank is considered the borderline for such Zebrasoma sp. such as
Yellow Tangs, my recommendation would be for a rabbitfish, such as Siganus
vulpinus. Assuming you don't have an overly aggressive set of tankmates, it is
my belief that this fish would make a wonderful addition to your tank, and may
provide the biological control you are looking for. Do note, however, that
manual extraction may continue to be necessary, as there is the possibility that
either species will not consume the Caulerpa. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
Rabbitfishes/Foxfaces
Hi Bob,
I was wondering if you had a recommendation if at all for any kind of
Rabbitfishes for a reef aquarium with clams and lawnmower blennies?
There are so many types and I'm not sure which would do best for string
algae/Caulerpa control.
<Do take a look here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rabbitfi.htm
and in the linked FAQ file for help.>
Thanks, Jackson
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Waskly Wabbits! (Rabbitfishes)
I have a 65 gallon reef that needs a good algae eater. I am told
that tangs shouldn't go in a tank this size.
<I think that's pretty good advice!>
I also understand that Rabbitfish are a very good herbivore. Is there
a Rabbitfish that would be comfortable long term in a 65 gallon tank? Fred
<In my opinion, Fred- not really. Pretty much every available Rabbitfish in
the hobby reaches a minimum of 7 inches or so- these guys need space just like
tangs do. They also are very sensitive to less than optimal water conditions,
often being referred to by hobbyists as "ich magnets". I'd stick to
some of the less "space-demanding" herbivores, like blennies...For
example, the "Lawnmower Blenny", Salarias fasciatus, or the "Redlip
Blenny", Ophioblennius atlanticus (a neat fish, but sometimes can nip an
occasional coral or clam mantle...never happened in my tanks, however). These
guys can do a nice job on algae, and although they can get over 4 inches, they
don't have nearly the requirements for space that tangs and Rabbitfishes do.
Also, some people use pygmy angelfishes (Centropyge) for herbivores (Now- I
don't want every reefer out there to freak out and say that "Scott is
suggesting using a Flame Angel for algae control!"). These fishes come with
a variety of personalities and tendencies, including a propensity for nipping
and eating corals in some cases! However, a large percentage of their diet is
comprised of vegetable matter, so I include them here for completeness. In your
tank, you'd definitely want the smaller "models", like C. argi, or C.
acanthops. Both of these little guys can be feisty, however, so choose tankmates
carefully. Use the wetwebmedia.com site for more research into herbivorous
fishes. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Waskly Wabbits (Pt. 2)
Sigh, too bad on the no for a rabbit in a 65. Some are actually
very nice-looking fish.
<The certainly are! They simply need a fair amount of space.>
I will go with the lawnmower blenny.
<A good choice, IMO! You'll really enjoy his antics and personality. You
certainly won't be "settling" with this guy!>
On another note, what can you tell me about convict blennies? I saw a
few in a local store and they are very interesting looking. As far as
I have been able to find out, they are reef safe.
<These are pretty neat fishes! I'm assuming that you're referring to
Pholidichthys leucotaenia...They are generally peaceful and usually very
hardy.>
The only negative I have heard is that they dig in the sandbed all the
time. Is this because to do not have a deep enough sand
bed? How deep a bed do they need?
<Unfortunately, this is a rather annoying behavior for most people. The
danger is that they can cause "cave-ins" of rockwork, and can bury
corals and other sessile animals with their digging behavior. They can also
cause damage to deep sand beds, disrupting the nitrifying processes occurring in
the sand. You'd certainly want a fairly deep bed, at least 4 inches, possibly
more. Once again, I'd recommend creating rock work that is not adversely
affected by the digging habits of this fish.>
Thanks, Fred
<Good luck with your tank! I'm sure that you'll enjoy your future fish
purchases if you plan for their needs accordingly. Good luck! Regards, Scott
F>
You say tomato, I say Acanthuroid
<MikeD here>
You are a wealth of knowledge.<Thank you...now you're making me feel REALLY
old!> I really appreciate it. I read on your FAQ
about Yellow tangs being prone to ick, would a Foxface Lo be a better
choice?<For a relative beginner, quite probably if you're satisfied with the
appearance. Similar intensity of the yellow, with the brown/white as a contrast,
VERY similar habits, and, like the tangs, only one per tank. Some of the other
Rabbitfish can be kept in groups, but the Lo will definitely attack conspecifics
as it grows, and other family members as well. These are very hardy, get along
well with lionfish and quite ick and disease resistant as well.>
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