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FAQs about Zoanthid Health, Pests, Predators

Related Articles: Zoanthids, Sea Mat: An Ocean Of Color For The Aquarium by Blane Perun,

Related FAQs: Cnidarian Disease, Zoanthids, Zoanthids 2, Zoanthids 3, Zoanthid ID, Zoanthid Behavior, Zoanthid Compatibility, Zoanthid Selection, Zoanthid System, Zoanthid Feeding, Zoanthid Reproduction, 

Zoa trouble…A follow-up Email Requested 3-30-08
Hello Crew
<<Kyle.>>
I have a problem I was hoping you could help me out with?
<<I will attempt to.>>
I have been in the hobby for about 4 years now. First off I have a 65 gallon aquarium with a 20 gallon sump and 250 watt medal halide. My alkalinity is 11 dKH, my Calcium is 450, 0 Ammonia my nitrates and nitrite within normal parameters.
<<Sounds good thus far.>>
When I started collecting coral I read that mushrooms and zoas were very hardy corals and a good way to get started.
<<A good but general direction.>>
That was about 4 years ago. I have a great collection of coral that all thrives in my tank but I have NEVER been able to keep Zoas. I have tried several types, colours and sizes but still they all die. I acclimatize them for approximately two hours before placing them in my tank. I have tried zoas from friends, LFS and random people but every time without fail I get the same result. Recently I was given some electric green zoas. For about a month they were thriving even growing new polyps, but for the past 3 or 4 days they have not opened or at least half opened and it’s the same old story. They look like they are on the way out. I am at a loss. The zoas are near the bottom of the tank in medium flow. I have tried several different placements with all of my zoas. I keep them in the same area for usually a month and then try another area if they are not doing well. I am currently successfully keeping blue candy cane, several different mushrooms, elegance, 2 clams, red Monti, finger leather and frog spawn. I do a 10-gallon water change every week (well sometimes week and a half depending on how lazy I am but at least every week and a half.) I’m wondering if you have any suggestions?
<<Kyle usually with zoanthids varying water quality is the culprit in regards to failure with them but that does not appear to be the case with these…By chance are they getting white spots/bumps on the oral discs? What type Kelvin is your bulb and how “direct” is the light the zoanthids are receiving? What type of lighting are on the tanks you usually do your purchasing from? DO you does or test for iodine? Any potential predators in the tank; snails, crabs, urchins, fish (what type do you have)? All of these questions may seem remedial or unrelated but they will help to diagnose some issues as well as eliminate others. In the meantime check out the articles I linked below.>>
Thank you for all your help
<<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zoanthid.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/blane-zoanthids/zoanthids.htm >>
Kyle
<<Kyle I look forward to your response and assisting your further, Adam J.>>

Re: Zoa Trouble 4/1/08
Thank you Adam for your quick responds.
<<Anytime.>>
(sorry I sent one this morning but I was in such a rush I called you Kevin. My bad)
<<It’s okay, Adam’s not my real name anyway…sort of a stage name like those gals at the adult bar near the airport.>>
There are no white spots/bumps on the disks. ( I read that can be caused by overexposure to light ?)
<<Affirmative.>>
Some of the polyps are 1/4 open it looks like they are squinting. But a lot of the polyps are brown and look as if they are rotting. I can send a picture if it would help just let me know?
<<Wouldn’t hurt…send it along.>>
I have 14,000 HQI Phoenix Electric bulbs and I purchase them from Reef Perfection in London, Ontario. I have placed some zoas directly under the light. I have placed some in caves to give them less light.
<<Moderate light about halfway down…to the bottom of you tank would be appropriate.>>
These zoas that I have now are the closest zoas I have had to living and they are on a rock near the bottom corner of the tank. I do use Iodine but I just add it here and there and I have never tested it, could this lead to zoas not opening?
<<If you are dosing properly and doing regular water changes I doubt this is the problem, however you should be testing for every chemical/mineral that you add to your tank.>>
As for predators I have 2 clown fish, a six line wrasse, yellow tang and a bi colored angel. Lucky none of the fish pick at the coral. The Bicolored angel and the clown fish sometimes have minor scuffles but nothing serious. I used to have several hermit crabs but I am now down to just one. He doesn’t seem to bother the coral just wonders around aimlessly. I also have an emerald crab (I think but I haven’t seen him in a month or two).
<<I wouldn’t have the funeral quite yet.>>
I have done a lot of reading on zoas in the last several months; I was reading an article about tiny predators eating the zoas.
<<Likely this little attractive but very predatory guy;
http://www.reefs.org/hhfaq/snails/faq_heliacus2.jpg/variant/medium .>>
Is there any way to detect this ?
<<A small, preferably red, light during night time hours…moving the colony (if possible) to a controlled/quarantine environment would be a good idea as well.>>
Also if the rest of the coral is opening and thriving is there anything that would only effect Zoas?
<<The Heliacus snail image I posted above would fit that that description and they are nocturnal, however I doubt that just one would cause the behavior you describe in your colony during day time hours. I’m still concerned about environmental issues here as well.>>
I bought a yellow Fiji leather 3 weeks ago but it melted down about a week ago.
<<Now I am definitely suspecting something environmental, though the yellow Fiji leathers are much more sensitive than their hardier cousins. Is there any chance you have any metal compounds making there way into the tank?>>
I have been running carbon attempting to remove any toxins left behind from the leather.
<<That along with a poly filter and lots of water changes would help, and do consider the benefits of not just quarantining fish but inverts as well…and while your at consider the consequences of not doing it.>>
I really hope this helped please let me know if there is any other information I can offer.
<<At this point I am still making educated guesses, it’s difficult to pinpoint something at the moment. The picture may not help for sure, but it will certainly not hurt…do send one along to me if you can. Zoanthus are more susceptible to disease when placed in turbid water near lots of sedimentation/substrate which can irritate the colony…imagine getting rocks in your mouth when your expecting a steak. In the meantime, take a look at this article as well;
http://www.springerlink.com/content/jr2lhp1g5l257418/ ; -Good luck, Adam J.>>

Re: Help with Zoas 4/1/08
Hey "Adam"
<<Kyle.>>
Thanks again for all the information.
<<No worries.>>
I love to read on any thing Salt Water and although I have already read many of the articles on WetWebMedia.Com they are very helpful.
<<Yes I think this is true with many things, you don’t catch it all the first read through.>>
I have never seen a snail like that in my tank before so I’m assuming its not that.
<<Okay.>>
I sent you a picture its not the greatest but hopefully it will help.
<<Thanks but unfortunately it’s a little to unfocussed and distant to be of much help.>>
As to your question about metal, my lights are 8 inches off the water and are being held up by rebar would this effect the tank ?
<<As long as you watch them for rush and corrosion, I would think not.>>
I did not think about the rebar having any effects because it was so high off the water ? Is there anyway to test for metal in the water?
<<If there is any it would likely come from your source water, I would contact the local powers that be for an analysis of it….that is if you are using tap.>>
The only other metal is a screw on my Mag 7 pump but that was already on the pump. Is there anything else you can think of that would be a large environmental hazard ?
<<I’m not seeing anything obvious in this situation.>>
I really want to know where I’m going wrong I wish I could keep zoas. I don't know what else to tell you ? Maybe I should try a large 30%-50% water Change ?
<<Perhaps, but I would still be interested for you to attempt keeping some in quarantine in control system and see if you still have the same issues.>>
Anything you can offer would be much appreciated. Thank you very much
<<Good luck, Adam J.>>

Palythoa/Zoanthid Malady – 03/30/08
Hey crew,
<<Hey, Scott>>
I love what you do and I hope to be as accomplished someday!
<<Thank you for the kind words>>
I had an issue that is still haunting me and I was wondering if you might be able to shed some light on it?
<<Will try>>
Here's a quick break down of my tank:
Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites = 0
pH: 8.2
SG: 1.023 (currently raising to 1.026)
KH: 11
Ca: 380 (raising this too!)
Temp: 78
92 gallon with 1 250w Halide and 225 watts worth of VHO's. 20 times turnover for flow; sump with Chaeto and I'm currently running active carbon. I currently have two Leathers, two Blastos, chili cactus and some mushrooms along with several species of Zoanthids and Palythoa.
<<Quite the noxious mix>>
I bought a package of exotic Zoanthids and Palythoa. They all came healthy and happy, some opening up within 10 minutes of being in my tank. The reason I'm writing is because the one Paly I didn't want to lose died on me and I can't figure out why.
<<Oh?>>
It's been about a month now and everything else is doing fantastic. I placed the Paly on the sand bed 6" offset from the halide bulb. The Paly opened up immediately and stayed happy for about a week. I noticed the oral disc turning white and figured it was pretty stressed so I moved it to a higher flow area on the sand bed. It closed immediately with the move and developed large transparent bubbles on its body.
<<Mmm…>>
I then pulled it out and removed the bubbles (bad move) with tweezers and placed it back in.
<<Ideally…this specimen should have been moved to quarantine>>
It soon had a brown blotchy spot where the bubbles had been so I assume the Paly developed an infection.
<<It likely had some type of bacterial malady from the start…and it’s likely luck that kept it from spreading to the other colonies>>
It was eaten by my wrasse the next day
<<..! Strange>>
so I also assume it must have been rotting because my wrasse hasn't touched any of my other healthy Zoanthids or Paly's.
<<Hmm, I wouldn’t expect this fish to eat these organisms at all…perhaps what was affecting the Palythoa was some form of parasite…and something of interest to the wrasse>>
I was also running Caulerpa in my sump at the time which I now know wasn't very smart.
<<…?>>
I have two main questions. What should I have done with the Paly I lost as soon as I had seen the oral disc turning white?
<<Removal to quarantine to segregate the infected specimen from healthy stock…and possible treatment via “dips.” Animals will behave differently to different methods, and I never feel “freshwater” dips to be appropriate for corals…best to dip in clean and aged saltwater, with iodine, or a manufactured coral dip like that offered by Tropic Marin, in my opinion. Do search our site re “coral dip” for examples/other’s opinions re>>
What do you think the clear bubbles could have been?
<<Don't know really, trapped gases maybe…generated by deterioration/decomposition>>
It was about 5-6 inches away from an Echinata.
<<Ah, Acanthastrea echinata? A clue, possibly>>
Do they have sweepers?
<<Indeed…very powerful…and can be far reaching>>
Secondly, I have another Paly that has all the sudden started to act funny. It's body has shrunk significantly, but still opens up.
<<Mmm, do you feed these animals?>>
Should I move it or get it out of the tank?
<<If the only symptom/observation is its getting smaller, no…but do keep an eye on it>>
Another case of allelopathy?
<<Maybe so…perhaps more carbon is needed on this system…or perhaps what you have needs to be changed out more often. I think the addition of some Poly-Filter would prove beneficial here, as well>>
Thank you for your time,
Scott
<<Regards, EricR>>

Help! Zoa eating nudis -03/16/08
Hi, I hope you can answer an urgent question- I recently noticed Zoanthids disappearing. Today lost several bam bams. I spotted 2- 1/4 inch long green nudis. Googled them and identified them as Zoanthid predators. It said to use flatworm exit. I have some used it before and a different tank. I need to know if this will hurt my RBTA.
<The problem with these types of broad scale "medications" is that you never really know what they're going to affect in a reef tank. It might hurt other animals in your tank indirectly. It will kill any flatworms you have (benign or otherwise) and this could also hurt other animals in your tank (some flatworms are toxic upon death).>
The package material says it is safe for reef inverts but I would feel better if I got an expert opinion first.
<Expert opinion? Hehe... will you settle for mine?>
Need answer quick, those buggers are munching away at my zoas as I type.
<My advice would be to remove the Zoanthids to a quarantine tank, and try your best to remove all the Nudibranchs by hand (with teasers under a magnifying glass) and also find and scrape off all the eggs (cheap dental tools you can get at a pharmacy work well). The problem with using flatworm exit for Nudibranchs is that you usually have to use a dose on the order of 5 to even 10x the recommended dose. And who knows how safe or not safe such a treatment is for a whole tank? I wouldn't risk it. If meticulous removal of the pest doesn't work, I would try the flatworm exit, but only in isolation (if possible).>
Thank you so much in advance
Linda Mecher : (
<Good luck!
Sara M.> <<RMF would try the "usual assortment" of probable small predatory wrasses here as well.>>

Losing my zoos! -02/27/08
Hi Guys!
<a gal here :-)>
I have a 72 gallon reef with a large variety of corals. I have frogspawn, trumpets, Acans. lords, toadstool leather, Crocea clam, mushrooms, zoos, open brain, doughnut coral, other assorted leathers, green star polyps, and some Ricordea. They all survive happily together.
<Uh huh, ok>
I know that it is hard to meet the needs of all these varieties of corals, but they are all thriving successfully except my zoos and the inexpensive mushrooms. It seems like every six months or so my zoos and mushrooms fail to open and die off. Eventually, they start to come back, thrive successfully, and multiply. I am wondering if this is a natural cycle of some sort of if I am lacking in some kind of nutrient.
<Or this is the result of ongoing coral warfare...>
I also have an assortment of fish in the tank. A Tomini Tang, 4 chromis damsels, blue Fiji devil, pygmy angel, clown goby, percula, along with 2 peppermint shrimp, 1 harlequin shrimp, and 1 bristle star and hundreds of tiny nuisance stars.
The pH is 8.2, temp is 75.4-77, nitrates not detectable, phosphates are zero, calcium is 460, KH is 8 drops. I do weekly water changes of 5 gallons using RO water and Reef Crystals salt. The nutrients I add weekly are iodine, strontium, and trace elements. I feed the coral 3-4 times a week using Reef Bugs, Zooplankton, phytoplankton, and carnivore pellets. I have a wet/dry filter with a protein skimmer. I use 2 14,000K metal halides and 2 130watt 240/260 actinic 8 inches from the top of the tank. I have 2 1200 and 1 600 maxi jets for circulation and a chiller to maintain the temp.
<In my opinion, you have too many different types of corals crammed into too small a space. Eventually, something has to give... I think your mushrooms and Zoanthids are paying the price here. Please see here to start:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlcompfaqs.htm>
I would appreciate and help and suggestions to keep from losing my zoos and mushrooms. Thanks!
Chris
<De nada and good luck,
Sara M.>

Bristle worms and zoanthids -01/29/2008
Hi Guys,
I did a quick search on WWM but couldn't find anything quickly. I just added a very small frag of zoanthids (after a 10 min dip in Lugol's soln.) into my main tank. This afternoon I got home from a long night shift and found at least 4 sm. bristle worms crawling around them. I pulled off 4 not sure they were good or bad for the zoanthid and I am completely exhausted from my night shift. Could you just tell me if bristle worms attack or have a symbiotic relationship with my new little frag?
<Neither really, they typically just coexist in peace.>
I really appreciate it. Thanks, going to bed now. Erika Villanueva
<Sleep well,
Sara M.>

copods and polyps... comp.?  12/1/2007
Hi all,
<Zac>
So I have an abundance of copods
<... there is no such thing>
in my 24gal tank, I have seen a slow decline in my daisy polyps, meaning that they have been slowly disappearing from my once large and healthy colony to a very small colony. My water quality is <20ppm nitrates, 0 nitrites, 0 ammonia, 8.1 ph. I do 5gal/25% water change every two weeks, so I don't think that it is my water quality. Anyway, I keep seeing tons of copods in my tank, seeing that they have no predators, because I only have 1 sandsifter goby in my tank right now. I see the copods all over the daisy polyps at night, and also on some red zoos that I have, which are also starting to diminish. On the other hand I also see some tiny blue star fish that are on the daisies and the red zoos, so that might also be the problem. But I have no clue. Thanks, you guys are great.
Zac
<... What else is in this system stock-wise? What re your supplementing, feeding practices? Could be that these small crustaceans, copepods or otherwise are predaceous... BobF>

Zoanthid eating Nudibranchs   11/30/07
I recently found quite a few zoanthid eating Nudibranchs in one of my tanks, we have a few that are plumbed together. We have pulled off as many as we can find, dipped them in an iodine solution and pulled off all the egg spirals we can find.
<Good>
The colonies that are infested are in QT now. My question is this: when the eggs that we haven't found hatch do they have a free swimming larval stage, and if so would a UV sterilizer prevent them from making their way into my other tanks.
<No>
Is there anything I can do other than quarantining them and pulling the Nudibranchs off with tweezers? Do you know of any fish that would eat them that I could add to my tanks?
Thanks for all your help.
Amanda
<"Eggs develop and hatch as free-swimming veliger larvae with a rudimentary coiled shell. The shell is lost with the larvae metamorphosing into a miniature adult settling on the bottom." (WWM) More rapid, complete physical filtration might sieve them out. Bob Fenner>

Zoanthids dissolving... small tank, cnid. allelopathy, not reading...  – 10/30/2007
Help! I have been trying to get a handle on my Zoanthids that are shriveling
and dying. I added them to my 29g
<Part of the problem...>
BioCube about 10 days ago and they opened right away and remained healthy looking for several days. I then decided to move them a little closer to the front of the tank, which I know was a bad move, but they seemed to have adapted so well I thought it would be o.k.
After the move, only about half the polyps opened, two days later it got worse and some started to shrivel. My thoughts were they reacting poorly to the lighting (MH 175w, 15k, 10hrs per day. Polyps are about 30" from the bulb) so I moved them back to a more shaded area. During the move several dead polyps fell out! I have not target fed, but have done tank feeding of baby brine shrimp and DT's oyster eggs.
<...>
I did a 20% water change yesterday and things still look grim, even with them in a shaded location. I tested water today and all parameters are where they should be, except ph, which is usually runs 8.2 to 8.4, but today it is around 7.6! I will remedy this right away, but could this be the problem? I have several SPS, LPS and other softies that are doing just fine.
<Oh yes...>
Is it the intense MH lighting? The low ph?
Lack of target feeding? Or, was it the move(s)?
<None of the above>
Thanks, Tyler.
<The presence of "winning" other species of Cnidarians... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/zoanthidcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Zoanthids dissolving  11/06/07
Thanks for the below response. However I am concerned that Bob F. didn't understand my question and hope that there is someone else that can help me.
<Hmm, I like your optimism, but Bob is our mentor. I doubt any of us would be able to help you much more than he can, but I'll give it a shot...>
<<Mmm, please... I know little of use compared with the union of all we know here... our "Crew" plus the cumulative input of folks kind enough to write in. RMF>>
I have a dying Zoanthid and want to try to save him. Bob F. provided a great link regarding Zoanthids, which would be great if I were considering buying a Zoanthid. He also indicated that the size of my tank, 29g, was part of the problem. As such, I have attached about 20 photos of tanks 34g and less that have not only zoa's with LPS & SPS, but with leathers as well. Can anyone help me?
<Here's the problem; every coral is different. You can find Zoanthids which are virtually indestructible. I had such Zoanthids once. I actually TRIED to kill them in a 10g tank. I raised the salinity to >1.045. I turned off the lights for 2 weeks. I did everything imaginable just to see what they could survive. These were some tough Zoanthids! However, I also have Zoanthids that start to shrivel up at any swing of water chemistry or change of temp or lighting conditions. I had some of my Zoanthids shrivel apparently just because a mushroom near them died. The point is that there's a great range of sensitivity among corals of different species (or even within the same species from different environments). Just because you found pictures of some Zoanthids which can survive in a nano tank with other stony and soft corals, that doesn't mean yours can. Furthermore, suppose your Zoanthids were doing REALLY well, this might be bad news for your other corals. This is the trouble with nano tanks housing many different types of corals. In such a small space, coral warfare is intense and there are bound to be losers (if not immediately, then eventually). This happens in ALL confined environments with limited numbers of niches. The few species best fit to survive make it, the rest die off. It's a nearly inescapable phenomenon of nature. It even happens in large tanks... it just happens more slowly. When it happens especially slowly, we call it "old tank syndrome.">
I really want to save this coral and am open to suggestions.
<Move them to their own tank. If they're alone, you could possibly keep them in a tank as small as 10g (if you are quite diligent in maintaining the stability of the tank-- might help to do water changes with water from the larger tank.)>
Tyler.
<Good luck,
Sara M.>

Blue Zoa BUGS!!!  8/20/07
Hey crew,
Thanks in advance for all the info already given and provided to us all. Your site/info has been a great resource for me and am sure for others. I am wondering if you could ID these bugs I recently found on my blue zoas. These bugs seem to make the polyps close randomly in groups. Getting a great picture if these bugs has been tough without sucking or attempting to suck them out with a baster. Less than a millimeter in length, clear, has 2 antennae coming from its head, has multiple legs cant tell home many because its so small. The Zoas and the rock are teaming with these bugs. I have attached a picture to help, don't know how much help it might be. I can always suck one out with a baster in order to get a better picture if needed. Thanks for all the help for giving me a good understanding of what is needed in order to take care of and maintain a marine Aquarium.
<Mmm... well... there are a few approaches to control here... with the usual "range of desirability"... biological, physical, chemical last... You can/could interpolate these by a cursory read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/swmitefaqs.htm
Do you have another "isolation" tank that you might use to eradicate the bulk of these pests? Bob Fenner.

Re: Blue Zoa BUGS!!!  8/20/07
After reading am not to concerned about these bugs just the number of them and the Zoas not opening or only opening for a shirt time. Well, I have am still working on the tanks filters, its an all glass not drilled tank and invested in an overflow with Aqualifter pump, I had plans to have a isolation tank plumbed inline back to sump for an isolation tank. At the moment it is not set up. I do have a 10gal tank sitting around. Thank you.
<I do think you're wise to ignore these for now. Bob Fenner>

Re: Blue Zoa BUGS!!!   8/24/07
Thank you for all the help you have been, I think for now I will tolerate the spiders, but if continues to be a "major" problem which already seems to have lessoned I will be adding a wrasse. Thanks again Bob for all the help.
-Jay
<Welcome my friend. BobF>

Re: Blue Zoa BUGS!!!   8/22/07
I could have told you that Bob! Joking aside I should have mentioned I did move them to a quarantine tank anyways, despite the lack of concern. Thanks to you all wise one, really thank you. Am i better off to leave them in quarantine till they are gone or population diminishes? Also since moving to quarantine I have been able to monitor the zoas more closely. There are a few white worms with black spots maybe reverse black with white spots curled up on the sides of a couple closed zoas, probably more on the underside of opened zoas. also 3 maybe 4 long red stringy worms, almost looks like a piece of red hair flopping about over the sand, coming from under the rock which the zoas are growing on. My question now is what would be better for the zoas. From my understanding 2 ways would either be Interceptor or freshwater dip in RO water, adjusted ph and temp of coarse. With addition to these new findings of critters which is better to elevate the problem,
interceptor or freshwater RO dip?
<Mmm, FW... pH-adjusted... but... I see in your next email that these may be "something else"... Pycnogonids... do they have eight apparent legs to your eyes as well? If anything, I'd go with a purposeful predator here (Lined Wrasse sp. likely)... or just tolerate them if they were mine...>
Sounds like ro dip would be better but I am worried of specimen loss, and I am wandering if the zoas will be able to handle the additional stress levels from a freshwater dip. Thank you wise one, Bob, for making me reconsider my previous statements/actions/concern.
<Mmmm, BobF>

Re: Blue Zoa BUGS!!!   8/22/07
Once I put it in Quarantine I was able to get better photos, I have attached 2 pics, to show the infestation and 1 showing the actual "bug" itself which turns out looks more like a grasshopper, a very small grasshopper.
<... or a Sea Spider... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pycnogonids.htm
and the Related FAQs file linked above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Blue Zoa BUGS!!!  8/23/07
Thanks for the quick reply once again. Figured you were tired of hearing from me, the unwise. Well I see eight legs very hard to determine but definitely looks like there are 8 legs. I noticed when I first put the zoas in my main tank my Pseudochromis fridmani (spelling?) was picking at the rock, not to sure it was eating anything or not. If I were to get a 6line or a line wrasse I'll run into compatibility issues correct?
<Mmm... in a tank this size, I give you good odds of not having real trouble here>
75gal 110lbs live rock. I fear with me having the Pseudochromis fridmani (was my first fish), already has his territory staked out pretty much all the rock on the bottom half) that he will go after a lined wrasse if introduced into my system. I notice with some research to use caution when putting these 2 species together, as long as they don't resemble each other, or need to be introduced at the same time?
<The Lined Wrasses are pretty sharp, and fast!>
Combination of both? Or just plain luck or am just stupid for even trying to put these species together in the same tank. I would
just as easily return the Pseudochromis fridmani (AND THE TWO 3 STRIPED DAMSELS!!!!) but I can not. Girlfriend picked them out for our first fish so kinda stuck with them till he dies (hmm.... gives me an idea, j/k). Thank you Bob you have been of great help.
-Jay
<Welcome Jay. BobF>

Yellow Polyps... on the Move  8/6/07
Hi you guys are lifesavers and your site is amazing.
<Hi Joe, Mich here, thanking you for your kind words.>
About a month ago I bought yellow polyps on a rock to put in my tank. They have been doing well for that time. I have two different 15 watt fixtures one with a coral light the other with a 50/50 light only a 10 gallon tank. Today I noticed a couple of polyps came off, not torn or bitten and still alive on the bottom of my tank. Is this polyp formation dying?
<Hopefully not. But it could be stressed. How are your water parameters?>
Should I take the polyps out that have come off the rock? or just move them to a different rock?
<I would move them to a different rock. Hopefully they will attach. Or place on some rubble rock and cover with a piece of tulle.>
Will they hurt my water chemicals like ammonia or nitrate?
<Mmm perhaps if the whole colony died but I doubt you would see a change in your water parameters from a few polyps.>
Thanks for all your help JOE
<Welcome! Mich>

Necrotic Zoo's   7/15/07
Hey crew,
<Hi Nathan, Mich here.>
I have had a rock of green zoos for about 8 months now, and during that time they have spread throughout the tank very quickly, and I have about 100 or so now. But today I noticed that where once there had been zoo's, there was just a rough reddish-brown mat (in the central part of the picture) covered in coralline algae, and some zoo's around the mat are closed and white. I moved this rock of zoos away from the rest, and into a stronger flow of water.
<I see the patch of coralline. But from what I can see the remaining zoos looked to be in pretty good shape. Hopefully this increase in flow will help the situation.>
My PC bulbs are old, and I am about to replace them.
<I would switch them out gradually, one at a time to avoid any potential light shock.>
I had the zoos near a group of mushrooms, but they did not harm each other. Could this be of the lighting? Allelopathy?
<Many possibilities here, but I think you made the right move by putting them in an area of increased flow.>
Should I remove (cut with razor) the White zoos and the mat?
<I would not. I would wait to see if the increased water movement improves the situation.>
Is it normal?
<Mmm, no, not normal per se. But hopefully you actions will show results.>
Any suggestions would be helpful.
<At this point I think you have taken the most appropriate course of action.>
Thank you,
<Welcome! Mich>
Nathan

Zoa's hlth.   4/24/07
A few days after buying some Zoa's the colony died off.  Now I have white spots on my remaining colonies, which appears to be tissue damage.   It reminds me of chicken pox.  They don’t show in photos, too small, but appear to be growing. They don't move. Please help identify and suggest a treatment.
<What type and wattage of lighting are you using? Strong halide lighting can induce a condition that sounds similar to this?!>
What is the best method for dipping Zoas? I currently use an iodine dip.
<No special requirements, just drip acclimation>
Ken
<Olly>

Re: Zoa's hlth.   4/24/07
After investigating further, it appears to be some type of small snail.
<Possibly young Heliacus? See here -
http://www.reefs.org/hhfaq/snails/photoalbum_photo_view?b_start=1>
Ken
<Olly>

Zoanthid spiders, Pycnogonids, MgCl2 dipping...  4/18/07
Hi,
     I know you have talked about these before, but I couldn't find the answer to my question on the previous forum.
     I am a newbie and did not know that I should QT corals (I know better now).  Somehow, somewhere, I have picked up Zoanthid spiders.  
<Pycnogonids... some of which do feed on Zoanthids... some are "just" space commensals...>
     So far, I have FW dipped the affected zoos, dipped them with coral dip  
<... what is this? Oh, the Kent Product... mainly I2 cpd.s>
and QT'ed them.  They have been in QT for about a month.  I didn't see anything for the last month, but recently began to notice that some of the zoos looked puny and were drooping.  Tonight about 2 hours after lights out, I turned on the lights and saw a baby spider.  I immediately FW dipped the zoo and got another.  I dipped all the zoos in the QT and got a couple more.  I have had about enough.  This is so disappointing.  I finally just tossed the affected zoos tonight.
<?!>
     I am writing because I am worried about the zoos that dipped clean on the first go round.  I left these guys in my DT and they seem to be doing fine.  
I plan on doing another FW/coral dip tonight on the ones that are not attached to rocks and see what happens.  
     If I find more spiders, what should I do?
<Remove, and dip (in a 1.024 or so spg MgCl2 (Magnesium Chloride) solution (made with clean freshwater...) for half a minute... place all in a new, non-infested system...>
I have several colonies that
are attached to base rocks in my tank.  If I find spiders in some of the colonies should I take out the base rock and dip/QT it too?
<You could... but starving these Pycnogonids out will do the same... just leave them, the existing system w/o food for a month or more...>
  I probably weighs about 20#.
     I hope you all can help me decide what to do.  I love this hobby but am getting very close to bailing because of the disappointments.  I also received some flatworm infested Chaeto from my trusted LFS.  Now my refugium has a few of them.  What should I do?  
<Read... on WWM re...>
     Will a sixline wrasse help at all?  Will they eat these things?
     Thanks,
     Miri   
<Read on my friend, read on. Bob Fenner>

Mysterious blobs   - 4/7/07
Hey Bob!
<Hi Brian, Mich here.>
I've got a quick question, I have noticed some blobs on some of my zoanthids. I am unsure what it is, I have passed it off as
regurgitation but like I said, I am unsure.
<Looks like algae growth to me, I would check your circulation and at least temporarily move these zoanthids to an area with more flow.  I'm guessing they haven't been opening as much as normal.>
I attached some pics of it.
<Got it!>
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
<Hope this is helpful.>
Thanks
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Brian
Re: Mysterious Blobs on Zoanthids  - 04/07/07
Hey Mich!
<Hi there Brian!>
I have 2 Seio m620's in 75g, along with everything else, I have roughly 1500gph+ flow. I have a spray bar in the bottom of the tank
pointed it at an angle to where it blows directly thru my live rock so nothing settles in there.
<Lots of flow in theory, if all is functioning properly.  I would double-check this.>
The blobs are not algae,
<Maybe, maybe not.>
nothing else has it,
<That does not rule it in or rule it out... not cause and effect.>  
none of the other various zoanthids, just that frag.
<Starts somewhere.>
They haven't opened in 2 days. It started out with one or two had it, then all of them had it.
<So it is spreading.  It may or may not be algae.  What I can say is I have experienced this phenomenon and found that the zoanthids would improve if they were placed in an area where they received a high amount of flow, even continuous direct flow for as a temporary measure.  Hope that helps.  Good luck!  Keep us updated.>
Thanks
<Welcome  -Mich>
Brian

Re: Zoa and Amphipod Problems... Unrelated   3/21/07
Hello
<Hi!  Mich here.>
I read through a bunch of text regarding predatory amphipods..  There seems to be some conflicting info about whether they are carnivorous or not..  I'm having problems with some zoanthid colonies ceasing to open during the day...  Some of the colonies were originally 50-60 polyps and reproducing extremely fast..  About a week ago they stopped opening..  The first day they didn't open I did a 10min freshwater dip to check for nudi.s...  Nothing showed up at all.. I placed the colony back in the tank and waited until the evening still nothing..   About 2am I check on them again.  My main lights are off at this time so It’s a little hard to see..  There are about 40 of these "amphipods" (I'm not really sure what they are) swarming all over the colony that stopped opening plus 2 other colonies..  I watched them for a couple of minutes and it definitely looks like they are pulling off pieces of the zoas..  
<Mmm, pulling off algae.>
My tank parameters are as follows..  Bare bottom 33g, 60lbs of rock, EuroReef 5-2, 150w heater, Seio 620, 150w MH de pendant..  The sump is filled with Chaetomorpha..
kH 10-12
calcium 450 <Allow to drift under 400>
magnesium 1300
Ph 8.0
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate > 5
temp 77-78f
I was hoping to find out for sure if these things are
eating my zoas..  
<No.>
I'm also looking for suggestions for
control of these critters..  
<Not recommended.>
Maybe some sort of Wrasse..  Any and all info would be much appreciated..
I'm providing  a link to a picture of them..  I'm not sure how to attach it to this email..  I originally tried to take a pic of them in the dark with flash and they all scattered.  The pic came out all blurry so this is the best I could do..  A couple of them came back after a few minutes so I snapped this picture..
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c306/fishnfst/evilpods99.jpg
<A very nice photo.  These are scuds (Gammaridean amphipods) and are not the source of your problems.  These are harmless, beneficial creatures.  I suspect you may be seeing them scrap algae of your zoanthids.  I am not sure of the cause of your problems, but I have found that increasing the circulation to these closed up zoanthids can help.  You might try adding a power head and checking your outlets, perhaps your circulation has been unknowingly reduced.  I hope that helps.  -Mich>
Re: Zoa and Amphipod Problems... Unrelated   3/21/07
Thank you very much for the prompt reply Mich..
<You are most welcome!>
I did remove one powerhead from my tank recently..  I thought I had too much flow with two Seio 620's and a koralias 2..    The tank is only 24"x20"x16"tall..
Flow seems adequate still with only one Seio 620 and my mag3 return pump...  I will add one power head back to see if it helps..
<Hopefully it will!>
Off Topic:  I appreciate the easy going and concise answers.  I was originally apprehensive about sending my question due to fear of getting my grammar and spelling ripped apart in an open forum :)  
<No need to fear! Underdog is here... Oh wait, that's something else!  There really is nothing to be apprehensive about.  If there is an effort made to follow the posted directions you won't have a problem.  But you would be surprised by the blatant disregard for requests of proper grammar and spelling we receive.  We get queries filled with "i this" and "i that" or ALL CAPS or just chat room speak "cuz it ez".  We do not want to post anything in this format.  We use these queries to educate and help others.  It must live up to a certain standard to achieve this goal.  We are all volunteers and it is time consuming to fix all these problems.  After a while it can get exceedingly frustrating, especially for Bob, who has dedicated thousands upon thousands of hours of his life building this site.  We provide a free service and ask for very little but an attempt to keep things on a level where all can understand and benefit.>
Thank you for going easy on me..  
<No worries my friend.>
If you can post the pic to my reply it would be much appreciated as well..
<Oh, but of course!>.  
Thanks Again,
<You're welcome again, -Mich>
Doug

Zoanthid/Paly trouble, brown slime and shrinkage   3/8/07
Dear WWM crew!
<Hi Julia, Mich here.>
Thank you once again for all the great advice you have given me and all the other hobbyists!
<Our pleasure to serve.>
Today I am having a peculiar issue with my Palythoa and zoanthids.  I have done my best to research it on your site, as well as ask my local reef forum members, and to no avail.  I have a severe sinus infection, so my head and eyes really hurt and I just cannot do any more research... Please help me so I do not lose my collection of these neat critters.
<Will try my best.>
First of all, this is my 54-gallon corner bow front tank with a 20-gallon sump/fuge.  It is mainly zoanthid dominated, although I have a few LPS which will be moving into another tank in the near future...  The LPS are: 2 heads of frog spawn, 4 heads of torch coral and one tiny frag of Galaxea.  All three are located as far away from the zoanthids as possible.  My temperature is 78 degrees and my specific gravity is 1.025.  I have a 250-watt MH light (15,000K XM bulb) about a foot above the water.  The fish are: two small pink skunk clowns, one royal Gramma and one small 6 line wrasse.  
<OK.>
There is a sand sifting goby in there (someone gave it to me, it was either that or he would have flushed it, and it is starving but I am working on finding it a more suitable home).
<Very good.>
I am including a picture of what has been going on.  Here is a description (pardon me, it is not very scientific).  A single polyp elongates and looks like a "pee pee" (sorry) and its head gets covered in brown stuff.  
<Ho buoy!  Phallic indeed!>
It looks like the polyp got dipped in glue, then in fine sugar sand (which I do have in my tank), then in Cyano.  But I doubt anyone glues sugar sand and Cyano to my polyps overnight...  
<Hee!  Not unless you have some of South Park's "underwear gnomes"!>
And I have absolutely NO visible Cyano anywhere in the tank.  Also, this comes overnight (in the evening there are no visible signs of trouble, and by morning there is this brown stuff).  
<OK.>
And I noticed that at least one polyp had an open mouth (I mean WIDE open!)
<OK.>
About a year ago I got my first Paly colony and a part of it got covered in brown slime similar to this.  There were actually three small colonies of the same Palys, and I split the "sick" one in half, dipped one in FW and left the other alone.  Well, the one dipped in FW died after a few days, and the one left alone recovered and is thriving to this day.  The current brown stuff is not so mild... the polyp that gets infected ends up disintegrating after several days...
<Yes.>
One of my colonies has shrunk tremendously (literally shrunk, not "lost polyps" and the polyps have brown on them, not sure if it is the same thing).  
<I think yes.>
Then there are individual polyps on other colonies that don't shrink but do what I described above.  One thing I noticed though, is that most of the infected polyps are "people eater" style.  Then again, I have a perfectly healthy RPE colony in the same tank... go figure.
<Typical.>
I wonder if any of it has to do with the goby sprinkling sand on the polyps, maybe getting in the mouth, or ... ?
<I have experienced this in my tank, it seems to improve with increased circulation.  You may want to check your plumbing and make sure everything is flowing properly.  I would also try moving the polyps displaying symptoms into areas of higher flow.>
Please pardon my lengthy email, I just wanted to give as much detail as possible.
<Details can make all the difference sometimes.>
I forgot to add that the brown stuff on my Palys does not siphon off or blow off, and I can't even rub it off without tearing the "skin" off the polyps.
<Yes.>
Hope this helps!
<Yes.>
Thank you very much yet again,
<You are quite welcome!  -Mich>
Julia

 
Snail ID: Possibly Sundial snail (Heliacus sp.)   3/3/07
Good Afternoon,
<Good Morning I guess!  Mich here.>
While having coffee this morning I observed a moving speck, which turns out to be a snail.
<What good eye you must have!>
At present my aquarium houses two Astraea and three Turbos. Also there have been no recent additions in the last three months to account for recent hitchhiking. The shell on which the snail is perched is app. 1"x1 1/2" to give some idea of scale. Thanks in advance for any information,
<Hmm, Is a bit small, but does look an awful lot like a Heliacus snail, which are predatory on zoanthids and typically nocturnal.  Do you have any zoanthids in your system that are experiencing any difficulty?  See this page, next to the penny:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypdisfaqs.htm  Heliacus snails have a small pagoda shaped operculum (trap door) this may help with identification.  Hopefully is not a Sundial snail (Heliacus sp.)!  -Mich>
Jane
Re: snail id: Possibly Sundial snail (Heliacus sp.)   3/4/07
Mich and crew,
<Hi Jane! Mich with you again.>
Thank you for the link to the image--the wee bugger in my tank bears a striking resemblance to the Heliacus.
<Not good.>
Unfortunately, due to its small size and my lack of x-ray vision, the operculum was/is too small to see.  
<Magnifying glass?>
Difficulty with zoanthids is now past tense--little left but a rock and red stubs.
<Uh oh!>
But, thanks to you, I can see the light--now if I can only see the snail(s) again...
<Hee!>
Regards to all,
<And to you and yours.  -Mich>
Jane

 

Disappearing Zoanthus  2/28/07
Hello.
<Hi.>
I just recently (about an hour ago) found your website.
<Welcome.>
There is SO MUCH info on there that my brain is starting to hurt from reading so much.  :)
<D@mnit Jim I'm an aquarist not a Doctor...that's a little Trek humor for you.>
Here's my tank specs, first:
135 gallon
40 long fuge/sump
protein skimmer
cascade filter with in-line heater direct to tank
<Is that a type of canister filter?>
titanium heater in sump
third heater (glass) in tank
Compact Fluorescent (orbit system), running 10 hours
of actinic and 9 hours of daylight
<Okay.>
Specific Gravity-1.026
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate: 0
Calcium-around 400
<Sounds good thus far.>
Here's my problem: I purchased 2 different zoo frags from an individual on Jan 21.  One of the frags is about 4 inches from the bottom of the tank and the other one is about 12 inches from the bottom of the tank.  The one that is closer to the bottom is doing GREAT.  It has numerous new polyps on it.  The one that is farther from the bottom (closer to the lights), however, is not doing so well.  Polyps are actually starting to disappear.  I am wondering two things.  First, could my long spined sea urchin (who has eaten almost all of my star polyps) be eating the zoos?
<Perhaps, though many times Urchins are simply destructive through their clumsiness and not always predation.>
Second, should I move the zoos that aren't doing so well down so they are at approximately the same height as the ones that are doing well?  
<Well if you had high powered lighting such as Halides I may be inclined to say yes but with what you have it doesn't sound like that's the issue, in their current state it would not hurt to try though. You may also have a Heliacus snail in the tank, common predator of Zoanthus.>
Thank you SO MUCH for you help.  
<Anytime.>
LIZ
<Adam J.>

Little crawly critter I.D. 1/28/07
Hello Bob or Graham,
<GrahamT again, Steph. Did you miss me?>
This is Steph. I had a few "green bubbles" on my button polyp, which, after looking on your site resembled bubble algae. Removed those, only a few.
<Hope you read on the preferred method for "bubble algae" removal, using a siphon, etc.>
Now, I see some whitish, long, and slender "bugs". Some of them are on the sides of the tank and some crawling on my button polyps....are these a good thing?
<Hmm, still would like to see these, rather than go on a verbal description. I am inclined to believe that you are ok, though.
-GrahamT.>
Steph

Hair algae, P. diadema, and Zoanthid rejuv. 1/25/06
Hello folks,
<Deb, glad you could join us.>
Thanks so much for all of the helpful information.
<We *try* to be helpful!>
In the next 6 months, I'm going to be upgrading this tank to between a 150g and 250g system.  At that point, I will make my 55g into the sump for the main tank.  I will either section part of this off for a refugium, or I've got a 20g that I can hook into the system as a refugium.  When I do this, my canister filter will go away, and I will be implementing a DSB in the main tank.  Until I can do this, I plan to continue weekly 20% changes (replacing one section canister filter media each time), continue aggressive skimming with the CPR BakPak, and continue to ensure that the current in the tank is strong.
<Very glad to hear that you are moving beyond canister-filtration. You will be moving into a much more versatile/useful configuration.>
At this point, my Cyano problem has seemed to cure itself.  In doing the
weekly water changes, I found that the pump servicing my SQWD system was
clogged.  This was inhibiting water flow significantly in the tank.  Now that I serviced it, there's a pretty strong current in the tank, which probably helped to eradicate the Cyano growing in the tank.  
<Most likely, this helped a lot!>
Also -- my Halimeda is making a comeback, though I still need to continue cleaning hair algae off of it every couple of days.  The bubble algae is still present in the tank, but somewhat manageable, as I can gently pull it out during water changes and dispose of it.
<Are you sure you have bubble-algae? Sometimes, I think folks think BGA is bubble when it has gaseous packets in it's layers...>
So, the only real problem in the tank is the hair algae.  It's still growing quite rapidly.  In trying to fix this problem, my bicolor blenny stopped eating and has "disappeared" in the tank.  
<Maybe he needed a vacation. Heck, if I had to eat hair algae...>
I'd like to pickup a lawnmower blenny to replace him and to help with the hair algae problem.
<Remember, Deb: This is dealing with the symptoms of a water-quality issue. IIRC, your last phosphate test was .03ppm, and I was asking how sure you were of the accuracy of that result. Where do you stand now? Did you ever buy a new kit?>
Once the hair algae is gone, I plan to supplement his feeding with various algae foods (as I already do for my Coral Beauty).
<Should pose little problem with a little research...>
Adding him will result in having the following fish in the tank:  1 coral beauty, 1 Dottyback (Pseudochromis diadema), 1 yellow-tail blue damsel and 1 lawnmower blenny.  Does this seem like a sound decision to add this fish?
<As long as you aren't hoping for a total massacre on the hair algae, yes. In my experience, algae-eaters always choose to ignore the one thing you bought them to eradicate.>
Otherwise, my zoanthids have stabilized a bit.  They're not dying off anymore, but they're not flourishing as they've been for the past few years.  Only a handful are opening up, and not fully at that.  
<All this points to a water chem. issue to me.>
I'm hoping that they are on the road to recovery.  I'm supplementing the daily feedings now with Cyclop-Eeze, in hopes that the added nutrients will encourage their growth.  I also use a plastic turkey baster to blow water over them with each water change to try to free them of the hair algae that grows around them.
I've ordered new test kits for my phosphates, silicates and nitrates, and they should be arriving any day now.  
<Ahh, very good. A reputable, reliable manufacturer, I hope. Mmm, one note: Silicates aren't a factor unless you have huge diatom blooms, so worrying about the concentrations is moot IMO. I don't own a silica test kit.>
I've taken the water changes down to 1x per week, 20% using RO/DI water.  I've just gotten new cartridges in for the RO/DI unit and will be replacing them this week.
I've also cut back my lighting schedule, taking 1.5 hours off the back end for both the daylight and actinic lighting.
<Good steps, all.>
In doing all of this work, I've realized that I haven't replenished my cleanup crew in years.  I've still got about 10-15 Astrea and turbo snails in the tank, but all of the small crustaceans are gone.  I'd like to replenish this crew, but am afraid that any crustaceans I add will be decimated by my Pseudochromis diadema.  Any ideas on what types of inverts I can get to replenish this crew that will survive the presence of the Pseudochromis diadema?  Having a well stocked cleanup crew may also help with the algae problems in the tank.
<Hmm... I never worried about a P. diadema bothering hermits to the point of murder. Types and compatibility of hermits is not a strong-suit of mine, but I know we have the info here on WWM if you look for it.>
So, to summarize:
-Lawnmower blenny for this tank -- good or bad idea?
<Good, in your case.>
-Any ideas on how I can nurse my zoanthids back to health?
<Provide optimum water conditions: temp, movement, quality, feeding, lighting spectrum/duration.>
-Any ideas on how I can supplement my cleanup crew without buying an expensive smorgasbord for my Pseudochromis diadema?
<Mmm... *I* don't see a problem with the "generic" red-legged hermits here. (RMF strike me down if I am in error)>
Thank you so much for all of your help.  
<Oh, Deb. You know we love you.
-GrahamT>
Deb

Hydroids infesting my Zoanthids?
Dear Crew,
<Russell>
Here's a new one for me...maybe you also?
<Could be>
Over the holidays my Zoa's (four frags, about six months old and previously healthy) closed up and became infested with little critters. My Ca and dKH dipped mildly when I was out of town for three days, but otherwise the tank was stable.. (need to get a calcium reactor, my 2-part dosing pump is temperamental).
These parasite-like things attach to the closed polyps and are too small to photograph accurately. They look like a small (1-3mm) hydroid-ish creatures, having a clear stalk with small white-brown tentacles. They start like white little dots and grow pretty fast, spreading to all colonies and show tiny tentacles. I had hydroids on my tank walls last year, but they went away after a month or so.
<Typical>
Last week I removed the frags (some had already grown on to surrounding rocks) and did a 15 minute dip in a gallon of tank water with a salinity of 1.015 and over a tablespoon of Lugol's... at the same time blasting the frags with a turkey baster. This seemed to do the trick upon reintroduction... most polyps re-opening and looking good.
<Good>
Then, over the last two days, the little critters came back so last night I re-dipped the frags- same as above except for 30 minutes AND I followed this with a flash RO/DI water dip. I also pruned and discarded the remaining small amount of new growth- polyps left behind on my LR (figuring these small stragglers were still infected and causing the problem).
<Mmm... much more likely to be residual animals in your system... really need to dip, move the Zoanthids to another setting>
This morning the frags, for the most part, are open with no obvious critters.
Could these be hydroids??
<Oh yes>
I've searched this site (and others) and am confident it is not "reef pox" which is more pustular, ulcerative in nature. If these apparent parasites come back, any other ideas????
<Mmm, plenty>
Interestingly, I also recently picked three Nudibranchs off the Zoa frags. I don't think the infestation is from Nudi eggs. Also, they are not Zoa spiders.
Thanks, Russell in KY
<Hopefully gone for good this time. Bob Fenner>

Zoanthid Eating Nudibranch...Not Hydroids After all! - 01/25/07
Dear Crew,
<<Hello Russell>>
A couple of weeks ago I wrote to you that my four small zoanthid rocks in my 11 month old tank were infested with hydroids.  You offered good advice. Upon further observation, and research, these are actually small Nudibranchs.
<<Uh-oh...not the "better" option>>
They are about 2-6 mm in size, light brown, and very, very annoying.
<<Indeed>>
I dipped the four colonies in fairly concentrated Lugol’s with a SG of 1.014.  Then I did a flash FW dip.  I don't have a pH meter, so I just added a small amount of tank water to the FW; hoping to buffer as well as I could.
<<Not likely much of a factor here>>
It seemed to work.  All zoo colonies opened up and did well.
<<Hardy little buggers those zoanthids>>
But now- really, based on my research, not much of a surprise- two have the little creeper's back on them.
<<Yep, a few adults/egg strings were probably still in the display while you were nuking the rocks>>
My next step is to remove all four rocks and place in my QT, with periodic dips.
<<A good move, though I would only perform the dips if/when the Nudibranchs are sighted>>
The nudi's only seem to be going after my zoo's, and not my softies or LPS.
<<They are likely "obligate" feeders on the zoanthids>>
No SPS in my tank yet... and certainly not until I take care of these Nudi's.  I have heard Nudi eggs are hard to kill (I am a family physician and have the same problem getting lice eggs out of my patients' hair)?
<<Usually more "resistant" to attempts to eradicate, yes...but I think your plan to remove the zoanthids from the display will allow any remaining eggs to hatch and die out...not unlike leaving a tank fallow when treating an ich infestation>>
Besides Lugol’s (which, I swear, has to be the same Iodine I use to clean wounds in my office),
<<Ahh, but it is mate!  Lugol's Solution (named after the French physician J.G.A. Lugol...and also called IKI (Iodine Potassium-Iodide); Iodine, Strong solution (Systemic); and Aqueous Iodine Solution BP) is a mixture of 5% iodine (I2) and 10% potassium iodide (KI) in distilled water with a total iodine content of 130 mg/mL>>
any medicated dips you can suggest?
<<I think the Lugol's is fine>>
I suspect the only thing I can do is QT, do freq dips and, essentially, use tweezers to pick them off for the next, say, three to five years...
<<Ha!  At least you have a plan [grin]>>
It's ironic that hobbyists have the hardest time keeping the large, pretty Nudibranchs alive and, at the same time, can't seem kill off these prolific little buggers.... the Aiptasia of slugs.
<<All comes down to providing an adequate supply of the appropriate foodstuffs my friend>>
Thanks,
Russell in KY
<<Always a pleasure to assist.  EricR in South Carolina>>     

Help With Button Polyps!   12/4/06
Hi!  <Hello! Mich here.>  I need help with my button polyps.  I got a small colony of them on a rock about 2 months ago.  They seemed fairly healthy, but eventually they were not all opening as much during the day.  I went to my LFS and they told me to raise the pH, so I did and it seemed to help.  <Do you check you tank chemistry regularly?  If not, you should start.>  About a week after that, my Mandarin Goby got what I thought to be Ich (according to various disease identification sources I have found online).  Well I went again to my LFS but my favourite customer service rep was not working.  I talked to another one of the guys there and he gave me some meds for the fish.  <Best to do your own research before making purchases.>  I read the instructions but apparently not well enough.  After adding it in correctly, I read the instruction booklet over again and there was a precautions section that said to remove any invertebrates.  <Yes.  There are no reef safe treatments for Ich.>  Now, 2 days later, my Mandarin has died, (and had been removed, obviously) and my Button Polyps are all closed, excreting some sort of mucus and some of them are turning white on the tips.  <I'm sorry for you loss.>  Along with that, I have a small piece of LR with 3 VERY small frags of Leather Coral.  They have been thriving beautifully thus far, until a few days ago.  Their tentacles have all retracted and the frags all have that smooth look, although there is no discolouration.  Well, I prepared a small , makeshift quarantine tank and placed the two rocks in there (with the Button Polyps and the Leathers) and I am now waiting to see what happens.  <And mixed a new batch of salt water to use in this tank, right?.>  I just really am getting frustrated here, because my Mandarin started off as this beautiful fish, and then I had to give him meds to make him better but he ended up dying, and I think that the meds for him have harmed my polyps and my leather.  <Yes, the med has harmed, and may kill the leather and the polyps, and most likely hastened the death of the Mandarin.>  What can I do from here? <The most important thing you can do is educate yourself! Please start reading!  There is much to learn.  Seems like you are missing many basic concepts and relying primarily on advise from you LFS.  This is not the recipe for long term success.  Much of the information can be found on this website.  But I think you would be most wise to invest in a basic book.  You will save yourself money, time and frustration.  I think "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner is the best place to begin. Hope that helps.      
Miss Kris

Zoa Spiders    11/27/06
Hi,
<Hey Shelton, JustinN with you today>
I have an outbreak of Zoa Spiders in my 99% Zoanthid tank (70gal) I have used the "dip" on all new comers, although up till now I have never used a QT for corals :(
<Better late than never, I always say :)>
I have setup a QT & removed all my Zoa's from the main tank, fresh water (pH adjusted & temp)/Lugol's dip on them, & found approx 40ish spiders in all! I have searched all over the Net & posted on forums both this side & is the US, but no-one really seems to know much about these spiders?
<Mmm, a google search for the term "zoanthid spiders" turns up many results on many forums>
Sooooo I'm hoping you might help in the reproduction (do they lay eggs on/in the polyps or do they keep the young with them until big enough to fend for themselves?
<Yes, they do lay eggs in the polyps themselves, but I don't think there's any tending by the paternals. I believe they hatch, and eat the zoanthid from the inside out.>
Secondly I've been checking the Zoa's after lights out for more spiders, so far have not found any, but I'm thinking of dipping them all again after say 10-14 days to make sure?
<I would do an additional one at 5-7 days of QT just to be safe>
Finally (sorry)
<no worries>
how long do you think it would be wise to leave the main tank free of Zoa's so if there are any left in there they starve to death? I was thinking 4-6 weeks possibly?
<I can't seem to find any information on this, incidental or otherwise. Likely, after the 2 week quarantine, you will be fine, but if you have the facilities to wait out a full 4-6 week fallow period, it wouldn't hurt.>
Many Thanks,
Shelton (UK)
<Glad to be of help, Shelton. Good luck on getting those nasty suckers out! -JustinN>

Strange Zoa Infestation  11/21/06
Dear Bob (or whichever if the wonderful crew answers this)
<Hi Claire, JustinN here with you today>
  I have a problem with the Zoas in one of my Nano tanks.  All the polyps have closed up, and they seem to have white dots in them.  When we squeezed a polyp, a tiny white pin head sized thing came out, which appeared to be slug like.  I have also caught 2 Polyp munching Nudibranch  - could this be the young of the Nudibranch, infesting the polyps?  I don't think this is what some people refer to as Zoa Pox, but I could be wrong.
<I would be inclined to think it to be more likely related to the Nudibranch, however a quick Google search turned up some pictures linked to the term 'Zoa pox' which look suspiciously like what you describe.>
  What should I do to treat this - iodine dip - freshwater dip - would flatworm exit work?
<An iodine dip would be my recommendation here. 1 tp 2 drops of Lugol's iodine solution per gallon of pH adjusted RO water should do fine. While Flatworm eXit does seem to have quite a following on many message boards, what you describe does not sound to me like flatworms, nor can I condone its use in an active reef environment.>
  It has spread so fast that it is alarming.
  I would really appreciate any help.
  Kind regards, Claire
<I would try the pH-adjusted iodine dip before moving into panic, and if you have the facilities, quarantine this specimen until you have a better identification of what you're up against. -JustinN>

Green Polyp Crash, Zoanthid Toxicity   8/2/06
Howdy Gang. Thanks for running a great site. I find myself burning WAY too many hours through your FAQs. Keep up the good work.
<Am trying!>
On to my problem: I've got a 35g reef with a 10g photosynthetic refugium, DSB, plenty of live rock, 223w MH and 24wCF actinic on timer cycle, a couple of colt frags, some other zoanthid mats, frogspawn frag, mushrooms (all well spaced out - I doubt any chemical warfare is happening),
<Is... all a matter of degree and type... tolerance and acquired resistance>
Longnose Hawk, Maroon Clown, 6 line Wrasse, Peach Blenny and a cryptic Rainford Goby). I am usually chemically stable, but recently experienced a little crash in Alkalinity (dropped from it's usual 8-9 to somewhere around 6 - not sure why). All the livestock survived and I'm supplementing my way back higher levels and my normal stability.
The lingering problem is that my colony of green polyps/zoanthids (look like the yellow polyps you see often, except these are emerald green) experienced some damage. About half of the polyps seem to have died and are now flopped over at the base. The larger polyps are still healthy, but I'm concerned about the dead ones,
<Me too>
and I seem to be seeing contradictory info in your FAQs as to whether or not to remove them.
<I would>
I know that many polyps contain problematic toxins and I'm worried about harming the rest of the system. Should I remove the dead polyps, and if so, HOW do I do it without harming the survivors and/or releasing toxins into the tank?
Thanks in advance.
<Best to wear gloves, safety glasses, remove the rock they're attached to, scrape off underwater in a tub... rinse repeatedly, let soak in system water (that is NOT returned to the main tank) for an hour or so... Stay aware of possible overt negative effects on other livestock. Bob Fenner>

Xenia and Yellow Polyps...Health  5/16/06
Bob:
<James with you today.>
I'm a new salt water/reef enthusiast.    I only started three months ago with two tanks... a 20 gallon and a 55 gallon.    I have CoralLife Compact Florescence with dual tubes @ 65 watts (Dual Day Light 6700K/10000K and dual Actinic 420nm/460 nm).    I have moderate to heavy water flow.    I keep pH higher than 8.0, Specific Gravity around 1.025, temperature at 78 F, keep my Copper below 0.25 ppm (one tank is zero, one tank has trace from when I introduced a Blue Tang that had copper medication on it),
Ammonia = Zero, Nitrites = Zero and Nitrates > 40 ppm.    I provide Iodine, calcium, vitamins and adjust pH with Carbonates.
I have had great success with fish, crabs, shrimp and some invertebrates (urchins).     I introduced a yellow polyp about three weeks ago and it was doing well until this week when it did not seem to open anymore.   I feed them twice a week by squirting with a medicine dropper with commercial phytoplankton.     Since they stopped opening, I squirt them once or twice a day.      They seem to have lost some individual polyps, but they seem to be retracting rather than growing.      They are also darker in color....when I got them they were light yellow, now, they are brownish yellow.    Is this the end for them?
Last Sunday, I purchased a Xenia from a local store that is 45 miles away. I have read that Xenias do not do well in transit so I elected to get it from this store.    They do not have guarantees so I picked up one (they said that the coral was mounted only two weeks ago).       They packed them in a double bag but were not very careful about not "crushing" the coral.    When we got home, the coral was "under the rock".    I acclimated it overnight (in the dark).     This morning, the Xenia looks contracted and no movement whatsoever.    There were pieces of it on the surrounding rock (like white spots and some small tissues).       Can you provide some insights as to what is going on.    My understanding is that Xenias do not need to be fed, that they are totally photosynthetic.
I appreciate anything you can help me with.
<First question before we go any further.  Is the coral in the tank you are
getting a copper reading from?  If so, I believe that is your problem.
James (Salty Dog)>
Noli

Button Polyp Issues ... comp., dis.     5/2/06
I hope you can steer me in the right direction as I have no idea what is going on with my Orange Button Polyps.  Only half of the colony will open
up, and I have no explanation for this.  It is next to a purple ribbon Gorgonia and a yellow Sarcophyton, neither touching it.
<Don't have to affect chemically...>
  I understand chemical warfare is a strong possibility but I always change my carbon and poly pads along with a 5 gallon water change every Sunday.  My current setup
is a 75 gallon tank with a 20 gallon sump.  Been running for nearly 3 years, and the button polyps have been around since the start!  My other tank
inhabitants are as follows:
Corals
Colt
2 Sarcophyton elegans
1 Toadstool
Brown Zoanthids
Orange Button Polyps (Problem)
Green Star Polyps
Green Striped Mushrooms
Hairy Mushrooms
Neospongodes
Kenya Tree
Red Ricordea
Montipora Capricornis
Montipora Digita
Montipora Encrusting
Frogspawn
Favia
Hammer
2 purple Ribbon Gorgonia.
Don't ask me how I stuffed these all in there but somehow I did it with out any of these corals touching each other.  A lot of them are small colonies and frags.  
Fish
Yellow Tang
Perc Clown
Springeri Pseudo
Flame Angel (have not seen him picking)
Mandarin
Inverts
Cleaner Shrimp
Variety of Snails
Variety of Hermits
Filtration
DSB and Refugium
Coralife Superskimmer
Lighting
384 watts of pc lighting
Parameters
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-2
SG- 1.025
Phosphate-0
Calcium- 430
Alkalinity- 9dkh
I did see one of my astrea snails hanging around the colony at night but they never opened back up and it has been three day's.  Should I start to
worry yet or just let things be.
<I'd do the latter... if anything, be moving this colony elsewhere>
  They have never been touchy before so I have no idea why they would start now.  I also don't understand if it is chemical warfare why would half the colony be open why the other remains closed.  I also recently switched from B-ionic to C Balance about 5 days ago.  Can this be the problem? Do you have any other recommendations other
than waiting it out?
Thanks
Eric
<This is a not-untypical "garden variety" result of such stocking... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/zoanthid.htm
and the linked files at top, particularly on Compatibility. Bob Fenner>

Zoanthid Illness question    4/9/06
  A friend of mine, who doesn't have internet access, recently purchased a colony of zoanthids from a local LFS.  He has had them in his QT now for
about a week, and noticed lesions have begun spreading over the colony.  He described them to me as small to medium sized, raised white bumps that are
covering all surfaces.  The most affected polyps are slowly starting to remain closed.  This has also spread to some of the other colonies adjacent
to the colony initially showing symptoms.
<Not good>
After doing searches and reading what references I have, I can only find one reference to what he described.  There is a thread on Reef Central that
shows a picture of what he describes and they have labeled them "zoo pox".
<Heee! Good name as any>
I can not however, find any hard evidence of what this is, etiology or treatment.  
<Not surprising>
In the RC thread, the individuals have tried a variety of therapies including iodine, freshwater dips, drying, waterchanges,
antibiotics, etc.  Most seems to be speculation and random attempts.
<Bingo>
The successful reports on the thread seem to involve letting the illness run its course and trying not to stress the animal with a variety of treatments.
<I would do this as well... seek to maintain optimized, stable water quality... use activated carbon in the filter flow path... and Lugol's weekly... and be careful re allelopathic problems here. Likely the root cause... negative chemical interaction with extant cnidarians. Bob Fenner>
Any advice would be appreciated.
Steve

Zoanthids/Shipping/Acclimation   3/20/06
Hey everyone!  <Hello Jennifer>
Just a thanks and another quick question.  I recently set up a 10 gal sump/refugium to my nano reef (12 gal) thanks to your page instruction for baffling, flow rate, bio contents and so on to be able to increase the volume.  Very successful so far and a really neat addition visually too. My question is: I ordered two zoas from frags.org last week, got them in VERY little water (water on one end of bag while zoa on the other) warm, thank goodness, but little water.  I acclimated them and added them to my tank.  It's been 3 days and they still haven't opened.  Water quality optimal, decent water flow, skimmer, 2 filters.. so on and so forth - all good.  My question is - are they gone?  I know time tells, but how long should I leave them in there before tossing them?  I didn't want to pollute the tank.  BTW replacement is coming. <I'd give it a couple more days.  If the closed polyps have some color they should come around, if not, discard them.>
Thanks again, I appreciate everyone over there helping all of us out here. ha ha.  I have a marine science degree (which I'm currently not doing anything with.  ha ha) and would one day love to join all of you!!
Thanks again, have a great night.  <We are always looking for qualified
individuals who don't mind volunteering their time.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jennifer

Yellow Polyps  - 03/12/2006
Hi guys,<Hello Dave.>   
  Great site with tons of useful info.  My problem is with my golden polyps, <believe they are yellow polyps.> they have been in my tank for approx. 1 month, half of them on the same rock seem to be fading away while the others are doing fine.  They have medium water flow over them 10000K lighting and water parameters are all good.  Button polyps and other soft corals are doing great.  Should I remove what looks like dying polyps from the tank or let them be?  <I would move the colony in a different area with a little less water flow.  They really don't like medium or strong flow.  Would not remove dead ones, may cause more problems at this time.  Do google search our site, keyword, "yellow polyps".>   
Thanks,  You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Dave

Yucky Zoanthus  12/24/05
Gentlemen,
<We have ladies here to, careful of what we say, their watching right now! Hello, Adam J with you tonight.>
I reserve this writing for just a most urgent matter.
<And here I am thinking you just dropped in to say hi, anyway onto the urgent matter at hand.>
I just purchased a group of Zoanthus coral polyps from Drs Foster and Smith. It arrived on
Tuesday. When I opened it, it smelled really bad.
<That’s not a good sign.>
I pulled it out, and put it in my tank, hoping to save it. This is Thursday, and the corals remain
retracted. In addition,  in the areas where the coral seemed damaged during
shipping, it was  a white color. Now, that white has spread to a crust that
has covered up almost the entire polyp. I have it placed in the mid to upper
part of my 55 gal. tank, where I have 2 175W MH lamps, and 2-T5
fluorescents, which run 7 hrs per day. Sufficient water circulation. I
tested water this morning, results as follows:
<Sounds like this animal suffered some trauma during shipping and that part of the colony is dying off. If you can I would fragment what remains of it look healthy and discard the rest.>
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10 or less (hard to tell exactly with my Wellfish kit)
KH 9.6 DKH
PH 7.92 with lights off
<This is acceptable, the situation does not sound like your fault at all, this was definitely a “shipping tragedy.”>
I run an aqua c remora skimmer, Magnum 350 canister with floss only at
present), 60# live rock, deep sand bed with plenum, Coralife UV disinfector
on canister filter discharge.
<Sounds good.>
Since it stunk when I got it, do you think it is/was destined to die, or is
this white coating a natural reaction, or ? From the reading I have done on
the animal, it seemed it was a hardy choice, and a good choice for my first
coral. Please advise at your earliest convenience, if there is anything that
can be done.
<This animal is a very good choice for home aquaria, just sounds as if you got a “dud.” I would call the dealer, if I recall correctly Dr. F&S policy should cover this and I believe you may be entitled to a replacement.>
Thank you,
<Quite Welcome.>
Don Laskey
<Adam J.>

Questions regarding Zoanthids  12/17/05
Happy Holidays Crew!
<And to you and yours>
I recently ordered online some assorted Zoanthus for color in my 250 gallon
FOWLR.  The first attempt resulted in the online e-tailer making a mistake
and shipping the two rocks with Zoos 2nd day air instead of next day as they
were supposed to.  As everyone knows we are in the middle of winter, and by
the time the shipment arrived the bag was brown, not a lot of water in there
and it was cold to the touch.
<Yikes...>
I was instructed to go through an abbreviated
acclimation process and try to rehabilitate the specimens (which I did).  In
addition to the acclimation process, I made an iodine dip to try to help.
The first night, one of the two rocks faired relatively well and although it
did not show but muted grayish/green colors, they did open and seemed to be
trying at least.  The other rock was miserable and the polyps were literally
disintegrating.  The online store (reputable I might add) offered to ship a
replacement order free of cost including shipping charges.  The next day I
received the replacement order, only to find larger rocks covered with Zoos;
however they were in brown stinky water and it was cold to the touch as
well.  The only heat pack in the large Styrofoam box was not warm at all and
not even in a place where it would have done much good anyway.
<Likely either not activated thoroughly before placing, and/or the box had insufficient oxygen to "keep it going">
  I acclimated
the Zoos and did the same iodine dip as a final process.  These Zoos have
been in the tank and only about a handful of polyps have half heartedly
opened, again with not much color.  I placed all of the Sea Mats up high
with PC lights (about 500 watts, 10,000 K, white and actinics), and plenty
of flow (aquarium has about 20X flow rate).
Question:  do you think the Zoos can recover and thrive, or do you think
they are a goner.  
<Only time can/will tell>
The first shipment that arrived late has only been in 24
hours and the second shipment only about 6 hours, so I know it is still
early, but since the bag and water smelled rotten and they are not opening,
I wonder if they are doomed.  The closed polyps are kind of like eraser
heads with the top being a little plumper than the base and are a
greenish/gray color.  In addition, I have seen my hermit crabs occasionally
picking at them, which I thought was rather strange.
Your comments recommendations are greatly appreciated.  
Regards,
Steven
<For "more expensive" organisms such as these, searching locally (from clubs, specialty stores) where you can see what you're getting is strongly advised. Zoanthids are particularly noxious, especially when "shaken, not stirred" in being handled. Do take care to wash your hands thoroughly if in the tank, handling... and not move the acclimation water into your main/mixed system/s. Bob Fenner>

Palythoa problem  11/16/05
Hi,
About a month ago I purchased some Palythoa, and they were doing fine and were actually replicating until about two weeks ago. I first noticed one polyp near one end of the colony beginning to discolor, becoming darker than normal, and shriveling. It then began spreading to neighboring polyps. About one third of the colony has shriveled and died at this point, and while the opposite end of the colony is still multiplying, it looks as if the discoloration is beginning to present in the polyps closest to the die off region.
<Good note, observation>
I assume this is some sort of bacterial infection, but I really have no clue.  
<Mmm, not necessarily, likely bacterial... perhaps environmental, predaceous...>
Should I cut the colony in half and dispose of the discolored polyps to attempt to save the others? 
<One route to go... do take care with exposure (yourself, skin, eyes) here... do this outside the system, toss any water, rinse the specimen before replacing>
Should I try a freshwater dip, or iodine or something?
<Could do this... in addition, instead of the surgery>
I am using Kent Tech I for iodine, I don't know if you can make a dip out of that or not,
<Yes>
but I would like to make some attempt to save the remaining polyps.
Thanks,
Frank
<Help me rest assured and read all the material we have archived on Zoanthids, starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zoanthid.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> 

My zoanthids are turning white - 10/19/2005
HI,
<Hello Paul>
I'm a newbie to reef keeping.  I've had a fish only marine tank before but now I've decided to move onto reef tanks.  Currently my tank is 4 month old and I have four fishes and various zoanthids and mushrooms.  Following is my tank parameters: pH=8.3, ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=0, alkalinity=3.5meq, calcium=340
question I have is related to my Zoa.  I've had them for about a few months now and recently noticed that the oral disk on the Zoa are turning white.<A sure sign of stress.>  I've read that this is due to too much light <not necessarily> but I only have about 3.7 watts per gallon and I have all my zo's on the lower half of the tank.  Tank is 75 gallon.  Please help.  Thanks.
<Paul, please capitalize proper nouns and beginnings of sentences in the future.  That said, back to business.  The oral disks are turning white because they are expelling their zooxanthellae.  Too much light can cause this but is not the only factor.  There is not enough info on your tank to be certain what is causing this.  What is your temp.?  Salinity?  Are the mushrooms touching them?  Try moving your zoanthids further up in the tank (maybe midway though mine prefer the top).  The only absolute here is that they are not happy with their present environment. - Josh>
Paul  

Re: My zoanthids are turning white - 10/19/2005
Josh,
<At your service now that I'm finally home from work.>
Sorry about the grammar.<No problem and thank you for correcting on this query.>  Here is the information that you've asked for.
1) salinity=1.023 and temp=80.8 to 82.<Salinity is fine though it could come up slightly (1.024-1.025, gradually of course).  Temp. is a bit high though not terrible either (78 would be preferable, again gradually if you choose to do so).>  The tank temperature rises when the lights are on and drops during the night when the lights are off.<The nature of the beast I'm afraid.  My heater is only set at 73, but with the lights and pump I'm at a constant 78.1-78.5>  Other things I forgot to mention is that I have 70lbs. of live rock and 120lbs. of live sand.  The mushrooms are far way from the Zoa.  By the way, can strong water movement cause this?<Is this strong laminar flow or random and turbulent?  Zoanthids like a random, turbulent flow.  My zoanthids tend to "bob and weave" a different direction every 5-10 seconds.>  My tank water is heavily circulated with two Seio power heads.  Please let me know what other tank parameters you need to know in order to better help you diagnose the root cause of my zoanthids being stressed.  Thanks.
<Sorry Paul, but nothing jumps out at me immediately.  Therefore, I have more questions to help me out.  Strong laminar flow would likely result in closed polyps, not this per se (but still of concern).  Are you using a skimmer?  What type of lights do you have?  How old are the bulbs?  Welcome to the world of reefing friend and do get back to me please. - Josh>  
Paul  

Re: My zoanthids are turning white  10/20/05
Josh,
<Bleary eyed and at your service>
I'm still at work and I just got back to my desk from the engineering lab.<Sounds like you could teach me a thing or two!>
The water flow is mainly laminar since directions on Seio specifically says it cannot operate with any type of wave generator.<Not necessary friend.  Turbulent flow can be created many ways.  Please search the site RE this.>  I'm using Aqua C EV180 skimmer<A great skimmer/company> but it is producing dark skimmate far less than a cup a day.<How many per week?  Do contact them if you are disappointed.>  I have a 15 gallon sump with a refugium.  My refugium is only 5gallon with Chaeto and live rock frag.  I'm in a process of designing a bigger and better (hopefully) sump.  For lighting I have power compact.  I believe I have two 10000k and two actinic from Current USA.  Light bulbs are about 4 months old.  Do you think my calcium and alkalinity is too low<No.> and can this cause stress on Zoa?<It could but I do not believe this is your problem.  Zoanthids are some of the easiest and least demanding to begin with.  You seem mindful of water quality so I would look to water velocity (at least direct velocity) instead.  I would correct the laminar flow first, as you may well be beating them to death. - Josh>  Again thanks
for your help!
Paul   

Polyps shutting down 9/8/05
I'm having trouble with some polyp colonies in my 125 gallon reef system!  The system was set up about 1 year ago and was doing
great until about 1 1/2 months ago. Around this time, most of the polyp colonies closed in on themselves. The only colonies that seem to be thriving are the yellow polyps which continue  to open wide and ,in fact, are spreading! <When one coral is thriving while others are suffering, it is a good indication that the thriving coral is actually winning a chemical battle against the others.  Water changes and carbon are often helpful, but sometimes removal of the offender is required.>
I have many Ricordea in the tank as  well as some leather coral which also seem to be doing well. I do have a hammer coral that has drawn in somewhat . I do not know the scientific names of the  polyps. I bought them as frags and have been growing them out. I regularly test for calcium, ph, magnesium, alk, salinity, and iodine. All test are in the accepted ranges. Do you have any ideas why only the polyps are suffering? thanks C.B. Hough  <Possibilities other than chemical warfare include nipping by fish or the presence of a predator (look for small snails with a "checkerboard" pattern.)  Best Regards. AdamC.>

Turbo snails harming my polyps? 7/5/05
Hi Crew,
<Hi - Ted here>
          I wondered if you could help me? I have a 30 Gallon tank,
fully cycled, has been running for about 10 weeks now.
Vitals are as follows;
SG - 1.022, Temp - 77, Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate - 15ppm, pH -
8.1
Lighting is only 2 x 30 watt fluorescent tubes (1 x daylight plus - 1 x
Actinic blue moon)
Inhabitants are;
1 x red legged hermit (about 3/4 inch in size)
2 x unidentified "hitch hiker" crabs ( 1 tiny one and one about an inch)
2 x Turbo snails
Some Chaetomorpha.
I have some Yellow parazoanthid polyps on a small piece of live rock
positioned a few inches beneath the surface because I know my lighting
leaves a lot to be desired. I am concerned for the polyps' health
though. I sometimes notice a turbo snail on the rock, it doesn't appear
to be eating them but it does look as though it could be harming them
through pure clumsiness (knocking them and pressing against them with
its shell) The same goes for the hermit crab too. Their health does seem
to have declined since I started adding other livestock (they were the
first live inhabitants). Some of them never open now and one of the
smaller ones has actually vanished, some of them sometimes look as
though they have been squeezed at the base as they go thinner (almost as
though they have had fishing line tied around the base and tightened). I
feed them weekly with a small amount of Mysis shrimp (soaked in SeaChem
reef plus) squirted on to them with a syringe which they appear to eat
in earnest.
There is also an abundance of pods and bristle worms in the tank.
Do you know what may be causing the decline of these polyps? I really
like them and would love to keep them. (they have been in the tank about
one month)
Sorry for the long message but I wanted to cover as much as possible in
one mail.
Best regards and thank you for whatever you can tell me.
<Your water quality seems fine although I'd like to see the nitrates
lower. The presence of pods and worms are an indication of good water
quality. While polyps will retract when disturbed, they should extend again
so the snails are not likely the problem unless they are constantly disturbing
the polyps. Your lighting may be contributing to the polyps decline. Keeping
the polyps near the light is a good thing but adding more light would be
better. You might also check the water flow in the tank. Chaotic water flow
will help the polyps. Finally, true crabs are opportunistic predators. I would
caution against keeping them in the tank as they may view your other
inhabitants as food.>           
Leif, Birmingham, UK.
<Good luck with your tank - Ted>

Zoanthus infection?
Hello all. The help I have received from your site
goes without saying. I have been keeping reef tanks
for 3.5 years and my system now comprises ~250 gallons
in a 90g, 2x110g stock tubs, and a frag tank, all
plumbed inline. The 90g has 2x250w 10k halides, and
each shallow tub has one 250w halide at least 2ft from
the water. After much trial, this year I have finally
succeeded in growing Acroporids, utilizing nightly
Kalk drips and various phyto and zooplankton. Just as
an aside, I acquired a small cuttlefish a week ago and
he is probably the coolest thing ever. Anyway, I am
trying to keep my cool, but I am afraid I will lose it
if I cannot remedy the situation plaguing my
zoanthids. My coral collection has always relied
heavily on zoos, and I have over 50 different colors,
with some that are quite exquisite. About three weeks
ago, one of my oldest colonies (a 6x5" rock covered in
solid emerald, with a white commensal sponge covering
the base of the polyps)
<Perhaps not quite so commensal>
began to close up at the edge
of the rock. In less than a day the closed polyps were
shriveled and discolored, and if touched released a
mushy brown substance.
<Not good...>
At first I assumed the polyps
had grown under a shaded area of the rock and become
necrotic. However, after removing all of the dead ones
and even some of the yet healthy ones from the
borderline, the rest of the colony still succumbed.
Interestingly, a small group of differently colored
polyps on the same rock was all that survived. And so
it has gone in this fashion; A particular color on a
particular rock will close overnight and each polyp
literally becomes a small sack of crap. I have already
lost 5 or 6 full colonies in the past week. I have
experienced white cheese beggiatoa infections upon
receipt of mail order shipments, but even these often
leave at least some of the colony alive if iodine
dipped and kept well circulated. With what I have, the
colony can be at any position in any tank and once one
polyp closes, the disease quickly overtakes any polyps
attached by basal filaments (same color situation).
For ~1-2 months prior to the first occurrence, the tank
was somewhat under skimmed and inadequately
supplemented with iodine (because I am lazy and also I
had been putting off the purchase of a $20 bottle of
Lugol's from the LFS, this is where you smack me). I
have already totally cleaned and reworked the skimmer
and I have began dropping iodine again, although I
have yet to see any improvement. Perhaps related is
that two small maxima clams that I have had for some
months are doing very lame, they barely extend their
mantle at all. Granted they have been this way for
weeks and seem otherwise healthy (or should I say not
dead). I believe the second clam I purchased
introduced some sort of disease, as the first clam was
healthy prior to the second clam's intro. This seems
like an obvious lack of quarantine, but I don't
believe I can say the same for the zoos, as the first
sign of disease was in a 2 year old thriving colony. I
simply don't know what to do now short of turning most
of my colonies into lovely pieces of plain live rock
with a razor blade. This really peeves me because I am
building a greenhouse next year and I intended to
focus mainly on zoo propagation. Sure I can always do
it, but to lose all these colors I have would crush
me. Anthony's book has been invaluable, and I hope to
eventually be one of Texas' aquaculture leaders.
That's right, Texas :) One last question, when moving
my halide lit corals to a naturally lit facility, what
sort of acclimation procedures do I need to follow?
<I would add some suspended light for the first few weeks>
I
have only seen literature pertaining to the reverse of
this situation. Thanks again, hopefully all is not
lost. Hunter Leber, Austin TX
<Can't tell what the root cause/s is/are here, but definitely know what I would do... move a good many of your Zoanthid colonies to another system, running them through a diluted seawater and iodine/ide bath enroute... whatever the problem here... infectious or parasitic disease, water quality, nutrient imbalance, allelopathy... it can best be dealt with by "dividing and conquering" and not losing your stock. Do set up separate system/s... and move your healthy cnidarians with as little of the rock in the present system/s as practical. Bob Fenner>
Zoanthus infection? <<Anthony's input>> 4/27/05
Hello all. The help I have received from your site
goes without saying. I have been keeping reef tanks
for 3.5 years and my system now comprises ~250 gallons
in a 90g, 2x110g stock tubs, and a frag tank, all
plumbed inline. The 90g has 2x250w 10k halides, and
each shallow tub has one 250w halide at least 2ft from
the water. After much trial, this year I have finally
succeeded in growing Acroporids, utilizing nightly
Kalk drips and various phyto and zooplankton. Just as
an aside, I acquired a small cuttlefish a week ago and
he is probably the coolest thing ever.
<<yikes! Its a fab creature but wholly worthy if not in need of a species tank. I do hope this creature has not been thrown in a community tank ;)>>
Anyway, I am trying to keep my cool, but I am afraid I will lose it if I cannot remedy the situation plaguing my
zoanthids. My coral collection has always relied
heavily on zoos, and I have over 50 different colors,
with some that are quite exquisite. About three weeks
ago, one of my oldest colonies (a 6x5" rock covered in
solid emerald, with a white commensal sponge covering
the base of the polyps)
<Perhaps not quite so commensal>
<<Agreed... so often they can be parasitic, and even when not so: they are often more noxious than many corals. Winners in a fight (chemical)>>
began to close up at the edge of the rock. In less than a day the closed polyps were shriveled and discolored, and if touched released a mushy brown substance.
<Not good...>
At first I assumed the polyps had grown under a shaded area of the rock and become necrotic.
<<This is not ever really likely... more than a few reasons>>
However, after removing all of the dead ones and even some of the yet healthy ones from the borderline, the rest of the colony still succumbed. Interestingly, a small group of differently colored
polyps on the same rock was all that survived. And so it has gone in this fashion; A particular color on a particular rock will close overnight and each polyp literally becomes a small sack of crap. I have already lost 5 or 6 full colonies in the past week. I have experienced white cheese beggiatoa infections upon receipt of mail order shipments, but even these often leave at least some of the colony alive if iodine dipped and kept well circulated.
<<I'm guessing/hoping you QT all new specimens for several weeks (4+ ideally) before adding them to your display? To reduce the chance of infections, pests, predators>>
With what I have, the colony can be at any position in any tank and once one polyp closes, the disease quickly overtakes any polyps attached by basal filaments (same color situation). For ~1-2 months prior to the first occurrence, the tank was somewhat under skimmed and inadequately supplemented with iodine (because I am lazy and also I had been putting off the purchase of a $20 bottle of Lugol's from the LFS, this is where you smack me). I have already totally cleaned and reworked the skimmer and I have began dropping iodine again, although I have yet to see any improvement.
<Iodine is mildly helpful at best in such cases. I use and recommend it in general... but not as a medicant>>
Perhaps related is that two small maxima clams that I have had for some months are doing very lame, they barely extend their
mantle at all.
<<I would not say because of the clams, but rather that there may be a pervasive problem in the tank affecting all. When in doubt, do a water change. Especially if/since your skimming has been weak. I'm hoping you compensated instead with larger water changes (weekly instead of monthly ideally)>>
Granted they have been this way for weeks and seem otherwise healthy (or should I say not dead). I believe the second clam I purchased introduced some sort of disease, as the first clam was
healthy prior to the second clam's intro. This seems
like an obvious lack of quarantine,
<Ughhhh... you may be learning a very hard and expensive lesson at the expense of other animals lives here>>
but I don't believe I can say the same for the zoos, as the first
sign of disease was in a 2 year old thriving colony.
<<Actually... anything else added to the tank (snails, fish, LR... anything wet) could simply have brought the infection in for having been kept in merchant's central systems and then bypassing a proper home QT>>
I simply don't know what to do now short of turning most
of my colonies into lovely pieces of plain live rock
with a razor blade. This really peeves me because I am
building a greenhouse next year and I intended to
focus mainly on zoo propagation.
<<If you neglect QT you will almost certainly suffer challenges and excessive losses my friend. PLEASE do not underestimate the need to QT everything(!) for 4-8 weeks without exception>>
Sure I can always do it, but to lose all these colors I have would crush me. Anthony's book has been invaluable, and I hope to
eventually be one