Question about High Alkalinity in FOWLR tank 1/14/13 Hello WetWebMedia Crew, <Hello Brent> I normally only test for what I would call the basics since I have a FOWLR set up: Ammonia (0), Nitrite (0), Nitrate (0), pH (8.1), phosphates (.25), temp 79.2 and salinity 1.024.  Although phosphates are a little high, everything else looks great. My pH usually tries to hover around 7.9 and 8.0. I've been trying to raise it a little, so I have been testing Calcium and KH (Carbonate Hardness) using API test kits. I'm scratching my head with what I am seeing. My Calcium show 440/mg/L (ppm), which I understand is an acceptable range, 400 to 500. However, my KH Alkalinity is 22 dKH which is off the charts according to the conversion chart. The range in the API Instructions says for a community tropical tank adjust the GH & KH to 50-100 ppm. Bob's book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist: A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists recommends 7 to 10 dKH for Reef, so I assume lower for FOWLR. I'm at a loss for why my Alkalinity is so high. There isn't any heavy algae growth. We do regular weekly 15 to 20% water changes, which I understand should bring those numbers down, but I did a 50% water change this weekend and it hasn't gone down at all. I'm not sure where to go from here, because everything I read is mostly about raising KH, not lowering it. I tested the tap water and it reads a 4 dKH. I use a small amount of Baking Soda to raise pH to my goal of 8.2, but it usually hovers around 7.9 or 8.0. We are currently using Instant Ocean Salt mix.  So here goes my questions:  1)  I'm a little unclear, does high KH alkalinity affect the fish and invertebrates? If so what does it do to them? 2) Do I need to be overly concerned with this high number that I work aggressively to lower it? If so, any recommendations? 3) Calcium seems to be good, but I read that if KH is high, then you should keep the Calcium at the lower end of the acceptable range because of it causing a snow storm. Am I understanding this correctly? I appreciate all your help. <There is a difference between degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH) and carbonate hardness (KH).  I believe you did not convert the KH to dKH.  Dividing the KH by 2.8 will give you your dKH which is what we are interested in.  So your 22KH results in a dKH of 7.8 which is more along the lines of what I would expect.  James (Salty Dog)> Brent Wells Re Question about High Alkalinity in FOWLR tank 1/14/13 Hello WetWebMedia Crew - James (Salty Dog): <Hello Brent> The test kit I am using is the API GH/KH Test Kit. The directions have you counting the number of drops you add to the test tube to turn the water to a bright yellow. Once you have the number of drops, you aren't instructed to convert anything, because it provides a GH & KH Conversion Chart (Shown Below). I've also attached the API Instructions. I counted 21 or 22 drops to change the water to a bright yellow. As you can see from the provided chart, 22 drops isn't even included on the chart. It only goes up to 12 drops. According the chart, the dKH is in relation to the # of drops, so since I counted 22 drops, my dKH should be 22 dKH, which is double the reading it should be. Am I missing something? This would put me back to my original questions of:  1)  I'm a little unclear, does high KH alkalinity affect the fish and invertebrates? If so what does it do to them? 2) Do I need to be overly concerned with this high number that I work aggressively to lower it? If so, any recommendations? 3) Calcium seems to be good, but I read that if KH is high, then you should keep the Calcium at the lower end of the acceptable range because of it causing a snow storm. Am I understanding this correctly? I appreciate all your help. <Your kit may be outdated, if you had a dKH of 22 you would be seeing calcium precipitation (snow).  Is there a marine dealer nearby that could test your dKH and compare results to verify your test kit's accuracy.  Your next kit should be a kit designed for salt water that measures dKH or meq/l.  I'm quite certain the test kit you have is for freshwater.  Is this the kit you have? http://www.apifishcare.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=74 <James (Salty Dog)> - Brent Wells Re Question about High Alkalinity in FOWLR tank 1/14/13 Hello, <Hello Brent> Actually the API Test Kit is the "REEF MASTER TEST KIT" which is for saltwater. It has testing for Calcium, KH, Phosphate, and Nitrate. The expiration on the bottle says, August 2017. As for getting it tested at a nearby Marine Dealer, I will look into it. I will give a couple of dealers a call to see if they can test it. if the test kit is correct, recommendations? <I'd bet the dealer's reading will be much less.  Get back with us if it is not.  Have you been dosing alkalinity buffers recently?> Thanks, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Brent Wells

Re Question about High Alkalinity in FOWLR tank. 2/6/13 Hello <Hello Brent> I was finally able to get a LFS to test the Alkalinity in my FOWLR tank.  According to their test, our API test kit is correct. I counted 21 or 22 drops to change the water to a bright yellow. As you can see from the provided chart, 22 drops isn't even included on the chart. It only goes up to 12 drops. According to the chart, the dKH is in relation to the # of drops, so since I counted 22 drops, my dKH is 22 dKH, which is double the reading it should be. So, I am not sure what to make of the extremely high Alkalinity? I use baking soda to make sure the pH is correct. <Ah hah!!  Baking soda contains a high level of carbonates and will raise alkalinity considerably as well as raise the pH but only to a level the water chemistry can support.  I would discontinue the use of baking soda for this purpose.  There are better means/ways to do this.  I suggest using Seachem's Reef Buffer to raise pH which it does without drastically affecting dKH.  Use Reed Builder to raise dKH but it your case there is no hurry to order any of the later.> So, I'm back to my original questions listed below through the conversation thread. I'm at a loss and I don't know what harm this high Alkalinity could be causing and what steps, if any, I should be taking to lower this? I appreciate any help you may provide. <As above Brent.  James (Salty Dog)> Brent Wells Re Question about High Alkalinity in FOWLR tank 3/26/13 Hello WetWebMedia Crew! <Hello Brent> It has been awhile, so I thought I would touch base concerning my water chemistry issues from back in January. I have had time to monitor it for a bit and make some changes. As a reminder, I was having unexplained really high Alkalinity dKH (22 dKH), which is double the reading it should be. We thought it might be the test kit, but we tested the water at two different LFS and the readings were the same, so it appears the test kit is correct.  I was using Baking Soda to adjust the pH. James (Salty Dog) recommended I stop using Baking Soda and use instead Seachem's Reef Buffer to raise the pH. Since January, I have been doing my regular water changes and using the Seachem's Reef Buffer to control the pH. Here are the readings of my water chemistry today: 46 gallon bow front |  79.2F Temp | Ammonia 0 | Nitrates 0 | Nitrites 0 | pH 8.2 | Salinity 1.024  | Phosphates 0.25 | Copper 0 | Calcium 440  | and Alkalinity, KH 17.  As you can see the Alkalinity has dropped some, but still not down into appropriate ranges. The Calcium seems high. My understanding is it should be around 400 with the high Alkalinity that I have. <What is your magnesium level?>  Any recommendations on what you see here in my numbers? Should I be concerned with the Alkalinity still at 17? How concerned should I be with these numbers? What is the impact of Alkalinity on the inhabitants? <Should not have any dangerous impact on the animals.> Any ideas on how to reduce the Alkalinity, or steps moving forward? <This will take some time to correct, the buffers will slowly lower, more so if SPS/LPS corals are present.  You might want to check the dKH of your top off water and I would recommend using RO water if you aren't already doing so.  Also check the dKH of your water used in your water changes, make sure you are not introducing water with a high dKH.  And of course, do not use any buffers in the system until the level drops.> Thanks always, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Brent Wells

PH questions, loss of in-tank buffering capacity, too much reductive influence      8/7/12
Dear WWM Crew,
<Eddie>
I have some questions about PH.  First some general info.  I have a 55 gallon marine fish with live rock system.  Filtration is an Emperor 400 on one side and a Penguin 330 on the other side with a power head in the middle.  I also use Boyd’s Chemipure.  I have had it set up for almost a year.  Currently I have four fish (Coral Beauty Angelfish, Ocellaris Clownfish, Six Line Wrasse, and Royal Gramma), a cleaner shrimp, and several hermit crabs and snails.  I try to keep things as simple and affordable as I can.
<Good. Me too>
 For the last year (and previously when I had the same tank set up before I moved) I have used Seachem Marine Buffer to maintain PH.  I have done fairly well keeping it around 8.2 to 8.3 using this product.
<Mmm, better to figure out the source of loss of alkalinity... counter this... w/ water changes and more>
 On Saturday, before doing a water change I checked the PH and it was around 8.0.  This was lower than I was used to, but I didn’t concern myself about it.  I did my usual monthly 25% water change, and added a dose of buffer afterward as usual.  The next day, the PH had only come up to about 8.1 or 8.2.
  So I did another dose.
<...>
  Today I checked the PH and it was back down to 8.1 or even 8.0.  This is unusual.
<Actually; not unusual. The "other sources of readily soluble carbonate, bicarbonate are becoming exhausted... the nitrification in your canister filters (reductive, acidic processes) are "eating away" at your alkalinity faster than your buffer additions can handle to maintain the pH point you're shooting for>
 Normally, after a water change one or two doses is enough to get it back up to 8.2/8.3.  I use tap water and Instant Ocean Reef Crystals.  I can’t afford RO/DI water.  The tap water has a steady PH of 7.6.  Recently, I purchased a KH test.  I’m still struggling to understand how all this works.
<No need to struggle. Do spend a bit of time reading. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mphtrbl.htm
and the linked files above>
 As I understand it, the alkalinity measures the ability of the water to keep a constant PH.
<Yes; one way to look at this... another is that this is a measure of the "resistance" to downward movement in pH>
  I have read that a Marine tank should have a KH of between 8 and 12.
<This is so>
 The tap water has a KH of 10 to 12. When my tank was holding steady at 8.2/8.3, I would have a KH of 15 or 16.  Before the previously mentioned water change the KH of the tank was 12.  Tonight (after the two doses of buffer) it was 16.   So what do I need to do to get my PH back to 8.2/8.3?
<Removal of some of the "acidifying influences", increase of the opposite... addition of new/more alkaline substrate... a DSB, some new carbonaceous rock for instance would help, adding a sump/refugium w/ macroalgae (lighted) culture as well, changing foods to somethings w/ less protein (its catabolism lowers pH, eats away at alkalinity)...>
 Do I need to keep adding buffer?
<Not a good single plan in the long haul, no>
 I don’t understand what has changed.
<See above... some parts (the rock, gravel) of your system that were more easily soluble are about gone...>
  Is there a simpler way to keep my PH where it needs to be?
<Quite a few... as you will find in your reading>
The rest of my water stats are as follows:  Temp. 79; Ammonia 0; Nitrites 0; Nitrates 0;
<Really? How is this kept at zero?>
Calcium 400; Specific Gravity between 1.022 and 1.023. 
Thanks in advance for your answer.
Eddie
<Let's keep communicating till this situation is clear/er for you. Bob Fenner>
Re: PH questions        8/8/12
Hi Bob,
First, pH tonight was around 8.0 (so it seems to be kind of steady there now).
I've been reading the FAQ's in the link you sent (I'm about 80% through them).  I wanted to go ahead and send you a response, but I will keep reading.  The Nitrates are almost always that low (and never over 5).  I think it is due to the Chemipure. 
<I see>
The only time they start to go up is when it is time to replace a bag.  A little more information about the tank.  My substrate is fine live sand 1 to 2 inches.
<Needs to be deeper>
 I have about 25 lbs of live rock and about that much more base rock.  Some of the dead base rock has come "alive."   My food (since May) has been New Life Spectrum Pellets (small fish formula).  I also put in some dried seaweed for the Angelfish.
<Good foods>
Over the past year, my procedure has been a monthly water change of 25% using tap water and Instant Ocean Reef Crystals.  I usually added a dose of buffer on the day of the water change because the PH of the new water always came out 7.8 to 8.0.  This would usually give me a pH the next evening of 8.3 or so.  Most months this would hold steady for a couple of weeks, when it would get down to 8.2 or so and I would add another dose.  Then over the next couple of weeks I might have to add a third dose (or might not) before doing a water change again.  That's why two straight doses with no change concerned me.  I got the dKH test a couple of months ago, and begin testing.
I noticed that (up until the last couple of days) a dKH of 12 to 14 meant that the PH was 8.1 or 8.2 and a dKH of 15 or 16 meant 8.3.  I knew that 8 to 12 dKH was what was recommended, but I figured that because I used tap water (and the tap water had a dKH of 10 to 12 itself) that my system would need a higher dKH to hold the pH higher.  I understand now that this isn't right.  I still wonder if using tap water is not part of my pH problem though.
<Not likely no... for most folks, systems, simple tap/mains water is fine for marine aquarium use. Much of what RO/DI removes IS buffer>
As for your suggestions in the last message:  New/more alkaline substrate (would I need new live sand after a year?);
<Yes; this is gone over on WWM a few times, places>
 a DSB (what is this?);
<Deep Sand Bed: Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm
and the linked files above>
  New carbonaceous rock (would this be more base rock?  live rock?);
<Either/both>
Sump/refugium (This is not possible right now.  Perhaps in the future.  Tank maintenance is funded from the family budget.  New livestock/upgrades are funded by Christmas and Birthday :-));  As for changing foods.  My fish are looking better with the NLS than they had before.  I tried it to combat HLLE in the Angelfish.  I really don't want to change it).
<I wouldn't>
After some of the reading I had a couple of other thoughts.  I think I have decent water movement, but I also keep the tank covered (except for where the filters return).  Should I remove the covers?
<Maybe a bit>
  We have several potted plants in the room with the tank.  Could this be a factor?
<Not likely. Unless these were quite numerous, taking up oxygen, giving off appreciable CO2 by night>
  Of course, all these factors have been consistent over the last year.  Here's something else that I don't understand.  If my problem is nitrification "eating away" at the alkalinity, then wouldn’t the dKH reading be lower--instead of 16?
<Yes>
Also I don't understand, if the alkalinity is about holding the pH where it is, what is it that makes the pH a particular level?
<Keep reading... a balance, more than reductive influences... mainly the presence of carbonates, bicarbonates>
I hope I don't sound too ignorant.  The reading helps, but a lot of it is still over my head.
<It will soon be clear/er>
Thanks so much for helping me.
<A pleasure. BobF>
Eddie

Cloudy water, BTA closed      6/25/12
Crew,
<Jeff>
Thank you for all you do!  I have a 6x2x2 tank that has been set up about 6 months.  The setup includes a lot of live rock, a 55 gallon sump with skimmer and a 20 gallon refugium.  All fish are currently in a QT tank due to an Ich outbreak.  I am on week 8 of the 10 week fallow period.  The occupants of the DT are multiple hermit crabs, a couple cleaner shrimp, a BTA and the following corals:  Hammer coral (Euphyllia parancora), Torch coral (Euphyllia glabrescens), Tooth coral (Galaxea)
<These three rank near the top in terms of allelopathogenic "strength"... Winners... see WWM re>
 and a Tree coral (Paralemnalia).  Since these corals are pretty aggressive there is plenty of room between them.  Everything was looking good and healthy on Saturday night.  I dosed calcium, iodide and an alkali buffer
<Mmm... depending on the make up of the first and third... trouble>
 due to my pH getting around 8.0 (have a pH probe for constant readings). 
Usually I don't dose all of these at once.  On Sunday when my lights turned on the tank was cloudy and BTA was completely closed up, all corals looked good and open.  The pH had dropped to 7.9 (confirmed with pen style pH meter and pH buffers) so I dosed more alkali buffer
<Don't as in Do Not add this directly to your system; instead, mix-into new water to be used as change out>
 and took water quality tests: Ammonia = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 30 (I know this is high but I have never been able to get my nitrates low, even with no fish and very light feeding of the shrimp and crabs. 
<...?>
Any ideas on this?),
<Yes: See WWM re... the search tool, indices>
 Calcium = 400, kH = 10.  I did a search on WWM and saw a post where the cloudy water was coming from dosing calcium and buffer at the same time.
<Not uncommon>
 I figured I'd leave it for a day to see if it cleared up.  Today (Monday) the tank is still cloudy, the BTA is still closed tight, and now my Torch coral is looking shriveled up.  The pH is still 7.9.  I did a 20% water change a week ago and will need a day to make RO water and mix the salt before I can do a another water change.  Am I missing something here? 
<Likely (my fave term) a "cascade event"; with a chemical/physical challenge to your Cnidarians; their in-turn reacting, poisoning/fighting each other...>
Any other steps I can take?
<Start mixing water for a massive change out... looking for established space to move/separate them>
  One more thing, my pH has always been around the 8.1  range and I can't seem to keep it higher consistently.  Any ideas on this? 
<... the usual ref. to having you, others search, read, use WWM... No sense myself, the rest of the Crew re-writing, revisiting, reiterating... the 30-40k people per day who use the site... join them>
Thank you!
Jeff
<Welcome. Bob Fenner> 

Re: Alkalinity Calcium Reactor    6/23/12
Bobby,
<Hi Steve>
Just wanted to let you know i throttled the calcium reactor half way back down and added dosing pumps on the tank to add 2 part every hour.  My alk is stable but the calcium is still dropping a bit.  I just increased the minutes the dosing pump is on to add another 25ml of calcium through out the day.
<Sounds good>
Do you think i still need the Kalk stirrer through my ato?
<Not likely needed with both the 2 part and the Ca Rxr> 
I like the idea of precipitating phosphates <negligible, especially if you are using GFO>
as well as assisting in countering the co2 from reactor.<Some value here, but not a ton with the small amount you would need to add> 
Just want to make sure i am not going overkill here.<Just be careful with having to many variables going on that you cannot find the area to affect if things get out of whack.  Keep it simple!> 
I finally was able to get my numbers stable with the reactor however my ph started to top out at 7.7.  With the dosing pumps now i am 8.0 at the lowest and 8.1 at its peak.<Those numbers are fine>
Thanks
Eric
<My Pleasure, Bobby>

Low dKH 6/19/12 <Hello Pam> Today, during a routine check of my tanks stats, I was FLABBERGASTED when I saw that the dKH dropped from 7 to 4!!!!!!!!! It's usually around 8 or more, but I do confess it's tough to keep it there, hence the low 7. When I couldn't think/ remember the reason for the drop, I gritted my teeth in frustration, cursed myself for not knowing such basic stuff, and I revisited my basic water chemistry info! I dosed it with Kent's Super Buffer, @3 tsp dissolved in fresh water for my 75 gal. tank, and now it's at 10dK  a.. Cal 480  b.. pH 8 Yesterday, we had a warm day here on Cape Cod, and my  tank went from a normal 75 degrees to 80. Other than that, I do water changes every week!     See attach. What could have caused this huge decline? <May have been the increase in water temp.  Biological activity speeds up at higher temperatures and can produce more acidic waste which would lower the dKH.> Ya know, I should have 'listened' to my Lopezi Tank, as he was behaving abnormal for 2 days, with darkened color, hiding and darting around the tank at feeding time. Not his usual 'social' behavior and vivid blue coloration. Thanks for your help! <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Pam

Using Instant Ocean now, may switch to Aquarium Systems Reef Crystals Always allow newly mixed salt water to circulate with a powerhead or airstone at least over night before use.  This allows carbon dioxide to equilibrate with the atmosphere, which normalizes pH.  It also allows oxygen to be added. 75 gallons 50 lbs dry rock 4 inches  LS Remora skimmer Power filter with floss, charcoal  (API)  Poly Filter â 48 inch Current USA 6x54W Nova Extreme Pro T5HO 3-10k/3-460nm Actinics AquaFX Economy 3 Stage 100g RO System  * Reminder; Alkalinity is measured as dKH To convert ppm (on Tetra Strips Chart) divide ppm by 17.8 Alkalinity is a measure of water’s ability to neutralize acids and resist change. Magnesium should be in the 1300 -- 1500 ppm range for everything to balance properly.   March 16, 2012 March 20, 2012 April 8, 2012 April 20, 2012 Ammonia     0 ? no kit ? no kit still no kit L ALK  10 dKH 8 dKH 10 dKH 8 dKH Calcium 280 320 360 380 Ph  8 8 8 8.2 Salinity/SG 0.022 0.024 0.026 0.026 Nitrate 0 0 0 0 Nitrite 0 0 0 0 Temp 78 78 75 75 Dosed B – Ionic ( for Calcium and ALK)       March 18, 2012    1  T. Dosed B-Ionic (Cal & Alk)   April 7, 2012 ……one Tablespoon Dosed B-Ionic (Cal & Alk)    April 12,2012……….  2 T Dosed Reef Advantage Calcium @  1.5  tsp   May 5, 2012   May 5, 2012 May 8, 2012 May 11, 2012 May 17, 2012 Ammonia       0  J ALK 8 dKH 7.8  dKH    10  dKH dKH Calcium 320 340 420 380  L  ? pH 8 7.8 8.4 8.0   L Salinity /SG 1.026 1.023 1.022 1.024 Nitrate 0 0 0 0 Nitrite 0 0 0 0 Temp 76 76 75 75 Reef Advantage Calcium starting today May 8, 2012  - 3 tsp May 9th 2012  -  3 tsp May 17, 2012   - 3 tsp   May 22, 2012 June 2, 2012     Ammonia 0 0 J 0   ALK / KH 8 7 4! ?? Emergency dose  w/Kent Super buffer dKH ! Now 10   Calcium 460 400 480   pH 8.0 7.5 8   Salinity /SG 1.024 1.024 1.024   Nitrate 0 0 0   Nitrite 0 0 0   Temp 76 75 77    When your Ca gets up around 440ppm you will want to watch for creeping and spikes, 440ppm is towards the top of the scale too much higher could cause precipitating Alk. Dry Calcium (Calcium hydroxide: AKA "Kalkwasser"): In summation, one of the absolute best supplements to dose calcium in aquaria with a long list of benefits and few disadvantages. Easy to use, but easy to abuse. Follow dosing protocol strictly.

Alkalinity (SeaChem products) and Zoanthid Behavior 12/21/11
<Hello Steve>
I have a 46 bow front with a 120w LED fixture. I am currently turning over my water about 50x an hour using 4 power heads and a HOB protein skimmer. I have about a 3" LSB and 50# of LR. I have 2 clowns, 1 Green Chromis, and 1 Damsel. My coral consists of a colony of Clove Polyps, 2 Orange Yumas, a colony of Branching torch coral, a colony of Branching Hammer coral, and a small zoo colony. I also have several hermits and snails as well as 2 Peppermint shrimp. I noticed several weeks ago that my zoos were not opening. I tested my water and here were the parameters I got. Sal 1.027, PH 8.4, Alk 4.5 dKH, Cal 460, Mag 1600, temp 80.2F. I used several test kits to confirm my reading and they were accurate. I brought the Alk up to 8 dKH over a couple days using Reef Builder. Then I let the tank settle a few days and did a 20% water change which leveled out the Mag to 1280 and my salinity went back to 1.024. The problem is that I cannot keep my Alk up. It keeps dropping to about 4-5 dKH over the course of a few days.
<Is not dangerous in a well maintained system. Might want to get the calcium down to 400.>
Now my Mag is slowly increasing again.
I have not been dosing with anything except when I raised the Alk.
<Reef Builder does contain magnesium and likely the reason your Mag is going up.>
I have not noticed any precipitation. The owner of the LFS was baffled and did not believe me when I told him what my parameters were. Do you have any idea what could be causing this and what I can do to solve it?
<I would use Reef Buffer for raising the alkalinity in your particular system. Reef Buffer has a higher pK (8.6) and allows for greater pH stability in a reef system where the bioload can be significantly more than in a fish only system.>
I have looked through your website but cannot find anything that helps.
<As to the Zoanthids not opening, it is likely due to your high (50X) turnover rate, they do not appreciate high water flow.>
Thanks in advance,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Steven Edmiston

Borate alkalinity way high-low to no carbonate alkalinity 8/22/11
Hello Crew,
<Hello Jenny>
I love your site.
<Thank you.>
I think it's the best resource on the web. I spend countless hours researching, and I usually find the answers to what I'm seeking, but this time I can't seem to find the similar problem. I have a newly set up 70 gallon reef tank with a 4" DSB and about 90 pounds of live rock. Also a 40 gallon refugium with a few pieces of live rock and some rubble, 6" DSB. It will contain Chaeto and copepods. I currently have a SeaClone 100 protein skimmer but just ordered an AquaC EV-180 with the JG fitting and Mag 7 pump.
<A good choice.>
I used Kent Marine reef salt mix with RO water to set up the tank. My readings are:
temperature: 80.8
PH 7.8(I want it up to 8.3)
ammonia 0
nitrates 10
nitrites 0
magnesium 1350
total alkalinity 5 meg/L <meq/l>
borate alkalinity 5 meg/L
carbonate alkalinity 0
specific gravity at 1.026
I want to have perfect water conditions for both fish and coral before adding any livestock, and I believe I'm having some problems with the alkalinity readings. I use the SeaChem test kit for magnesium and alkalinity. I don't think I'm going to test for or supplement for Strontium. Is that ok?
<I've never tested for this element in 30+ years. Good reef type salt mixes should supply this trace provided regular water changes are carried out.>
The overall alkalinity where it's supposed to be, but I believe the majority of the alkalinity is supposed to come from carbonate alkalinity.
Is this correct,
<Yes.>
and if so, how do I correct this?
<Correct what? Your total alkalinity (which is what we are interested in) is 12.5 dKH. I would like to see you keep this around 7-9 dKH for a reef tank. High alkalinity readings can cause calcium to precipitate out of solution although you are not at that level yet. Do not add any more buffer until the dKH level drops to 7 dKH.
Multiplying the meq/l figure
by 2.8 will give you the dKH.>
Thank you.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jenny
Re Borate alkalinity way high-low to no carbonate alkalinity 8/22/11- 8/23/11
Hi James,
<Hello Jenny>
Thanks for the quick reply.
<You're welcome.>
My question on what to correct was based on the very high borate and pretty much non-existent carbonate alkalinity. I thought the total alkalinity had to come from carbonate, of which you agreed, so I was wondering how to correct that. Then you said that the total dkH is what interested in. If that's the case, is it even necessary to test for borate and carbonate separately if the overall is ok?
<Is not necessary to test for borate, using a marine alkalinity test kit is all that is necessary. Buffers designed for marine aquaria will be blended with carbonates in the correct proportion to raise dKH. I do not understand how you are getting a high borate reading if you are using buffers designed for marine aquaria.
Perhaps you are not doing the math, carbonate alkalinity is determined by subtracting the borate alkalinity from the total alkalinity. May want to read here.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/6/chemistry>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jenny
Re Borate alkalinity way high-low to no carbonate alkalinity 8/22/11- 8/23/11
Hi James,
<Jenny>
This is a new setup that is cycling, and I haven't buffered it at all besides a couple water changes.
<Salt mix contains buffers.>
I contacted LuAnn in the Tech dept at Kent Marine, and she said the SeaChem borate test is known for inaccuracy and concurred with you that a marine alkalinity test is all that is needed. Regarding my low pH, I have different readings on different probes, and the color chart on the chemical test is closer to one of my probes, so it's actually around 8.1 which is fine with me. Thanks so much for getting back to me again.
<You're welcome.>
I am learning so much, it's invigorating to know I'm on the right track.
Have a great week.
<And you as well. James (Salty Dog)>
Jenny

Low pH with high Alkalinity and dKH- 8/20/11
Hi, crew.
<Hi Deb>
I sent this yesterday but I haven't got a response so I thought I would send it again just to be sure.
<Ok, sorry if your message has 'got lost' somewhere>
I have a 65 gallon tank with a Penguin 350 external filter with activated carbon and a protein skimmer. Livestock = 1 Yellow Tang, 1 Tomato Clown, 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish, 2 Striped Damsels, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp and a few Astrea snails and hermit crabs.
<Ok. This tank is too small for Yellow Tang though, especially with the others you list>
I recently added some Zoanthids but they are not doing well. I have been using test strips, <worthless> but recently got better test kits and these are the results: pH 7.7 (which I know is dangerously low--I repeated it twice just to be sure),
<Not dangerous, but low indeed and needs to be corrected. What time of the day are you reading this?>
nitrite 0, nitrate 10 ppm, calcium > 500 ppm,
<Far too high, wants to be about 400>
alkalinity 3.02, dKH 8.45, PO4 = 1.0,
<Again, too high. Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php>
Mg = 1380, SG = 1.022,
<Raise this to 1.025-1.026>
Temp 78. I have been doing a 10 % water change every 7 - 10 days.
<This is good practice>
I don't know how the pH can be so low with the dKH and alkalinity so high.
<This is likely because of your high fish load and the resultant respiration (CO2) and feeding/ waste produce (acids). Organic loads on systems put downward pressure on the pH>
What can I do about this?
<There are many solutions, likely a combination of several, including finding the Tang a larger home, aerating the water/ skimmer with air from outside the house to 'blow off' CO2, graduating to a sump/ reverse-lit refugium system.... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwph,alk.htm?h= and here:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php . Simon>
Re: Low pH with high Alkalinity and dKH- 8/20/11
Hi crew!
<Hi Deb>
Thank you for your very comprehensive answer, Simon. It gave me a lot to think about.
<No problem>
I understand the chemistry a lot better after reading the articles.
<Great! That is how I first learnt.. by reading... it's the best way!>
To answer your question, I measured the pH at night, daytime value was closer to 8.0.
<This is more like it>
I am now experimenting with greater aeration to raise pH.
<Try running an airline into your skimmer from outside>
I will increase SG
<This is likely the cause of your Zoanthids not doing well, not the pH>
and probably use ferrous oxide to lower PO4,
<Be careful not to strip the water of PO4 completely - easily done by over-using this media, of which I am a fan of in small quantities.
Phosphate is an essential nutrient.>
with a longer range plan of upgrading my system to give my fish (especially the tang) more space.
<Great!>
In the end we will all probably be a lot happier!
<Yes, the fish will reward you with increased health and vitality if you do this>
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
<Good luck Deb, Simon>

Re: water chemistry question... Alk. anomaly & Red Sea synthetic/borate, & salt mix issues f's 3/8/11
Thank you for the response Bob!
<Welcome Adam!>
I've been waiting a while before writing you back because I wanted to be sure I had isolated the exact problem. While things improved a little when I increased the pH of my tank, that situation did not hold and my Acroporas started to deteriorate again soon after. However, after a couple weeks of testing every day, I believe I've discovered, and corrected the real culprit:
<Ah, good>
As I mentioned, I had just recently switched to a new Red Sea salt, which is the first time I've ever used a salt that is evaporated directly from the ocean, I've always used synthetic salts. Shortly there after, I started using baking soda. For the past year and a half, my daily/weekly maintenance routine on my tank has involved testing alkalinity, calcium and magnesium levels, and I do more thorough tests for things like borate alkalinity specifically, strontium, iodide, silicates, etc. monthly.
<Ok>
I upped my testing to daily for most of those parameters since I wrote you last, but with a special focus on the alkalinity component because the tissue damage I was seeing looked so much like the Alk crash my tank went through before I set up the auto-doser. In that time, I've done two largish water changes. It turns out the naturally evaporated sea salt has a much higher borate concentration than the synthetic salts
<Yes... there are some brands that do this... for a couple of reasons>
I've used in the past, which have almost no borate. The volume of carbonate solution my auto-doser is set to dispense was also determined based on the reef specific carbonate source I was using before I switched to baking soda.
While my dKH has stayed relatively constant, each time I did a water change, my total alkalinity would spike, and then over the course of a couple of days return to 'normal' levels. What was actually happening was that over time, the salt was adding far more borate to my water than my tank was consuming, and the baking soda solution wasn't concentrated enough to keep up with the carbonate demand at the set dispensing volume.
<This is an apt description... what was likely occurring>
Each water change my relative concentration of borate was increasing, so the total alkalinity test continued to return 'normal' values. In the time between one water change, my carbonate alkalinity fell to as low as 1.79 meq/L,
<Yikes>
only to be propped back up to 'safe' levels by another water change (when magically, things would start to look better), then start to fall again.
This repeated stress over the course of a month+ lead to the problems I saw.
I'm now testing for both borate alkalinity and carbonate alkalinity separately every other day, and have adjusted my auto-doser accordingly. My total alkalinity is now on the high side at 4.64 meq/L (or about 13 dKH), but my carbonate concentration 3.4 meq/L (about 9.5 dKH). It will take a while for the tissue that burnt to fully recover, but already the reversal is night and day - the tips have their colour and 'fleshiness' back, the surviving polyps are out in full force, and the corals are already starting to plate over the areas that died. It appears the carbon and biopellet reactors had nothing to do with it!
<Agreed>
Again, thank you for your time. I don't know where I would be without WWM - well, I do know, I would have a tank full of dead coral.
Adam
<Thank you for your valuable insights offered here. You have helped many others, myself included. Cheers, BobF>

Re: High Alkalinity... incl. RO issues - 2/9/11
HI Bob,
I took it to the source and tested the water in my reservoir that is pending a water change and found the dkH to be 11 which now explains why my water changes have been proving fruitless.
<Perhaps time to... oh I see you address the RO below>
I just finished changing all the filters in my RO, added salt to my softener and retested and found the levels to be the same
<?! No... this is the reading out of the RO? Summat is wrong w/ the RO...
Do check your plumbing... perhaps the insertion of cartridges. RO water should have near zero alkalinity, TDS, slightly reductive pH>
with a PH of 8.0
I just finished testing my tank and I have the following numbers
CA 389
Alk 15 dkH
PH 8.53
I have a very slow bubble count coming out of my calcium reactor in hopes that it will help bring these numbers down but this currently appears pointless
Is there anything that I can do to my water to bring the alkalinity down?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Chris
<I'd dilute w/ the use of some RO water (try w/ half this and half regular tap to all RO). Bob Fenner>

Low Alkalinity 2/6/11
Hello Crew,
<BD>
I have read about water chemistry on your site and do weekly testing and water change, and am currently dosing only Seachem Reef Buffer, and weekly iodine. PH has improved (from 7.8 to 8.2), but alkalinity has not budged and remains at dKH = 5 .
<Mmmm>
I'm unsure if I should just continue with water changes and PH Buffer as I have been, or would a different alkalinity supplement be needed to bring alkalinity up in my case (my water and other tank parameters below)?
<Need to know other circumstances and measures (Ca and Mg principally) of this system>
I have written previously to you of my experience using Seachem Reef Builder with some of my fish reacting with itching and skin erosion, and I did contact the company but was told this had never happened to anyone else. Since I am sure that I was correct in my dosage for water volume as well as in my method of application, and had the same occurrence multiple times, I have no confidence in using that type of additive. (It gets hot when you mix with small amount of water, so to me that says a lot about it's potential for skin irritation on fish).
Anyway, thanks in advance for any further advice you can give,
Wendy Dyke
180 gal system w/ 16 fish, all less than 3 inches except for Regal Tang at 5" (I do feed heavily and want to continue this):
PH 8.2 after increasing water changes and Seachem Reef Buffer usage for couple of weeks (up from 7.8)
SG 1.025-1.026 consistently with RO top off
Water change (and filter maintenance) weekly 5-10 gal Calcium 400
<And Mg.?>
150 gal Protein skimmer getting 1 cup dark green skimmate per week (increasing production gives light skimmate so I have not)
Flow Airline/ 5 medium size Koralias/ 2 Mag pumps for sump return in 180 gal system.
50 gal system w/ Ocellaris pair and jawfish:
PH 8.2 after increasing water changes and Seachem Reef Buffer usage for couple of weeks (up from 7.8)
SG 1.025-1.026 consistently with RO top off
Water change (and filter maintenance) weekly 2-5 gal
Calcium 400
75 gal Protein skimmer producing 1 cup of skimmate per week.
HOT filter/ airline/ 2 small Koralia
<Do see SeaChem's website: http://www.seachem.com/Home/index.html
re other alkalinity and biomineral products. I would switch to their Reef Complete
Bob Fenner>

Low KH, SW 1/24/11
Hi
<Hello Benita>
I am hoping someone can help!
<We'll try.>
First a bit about my system:- 135 litre with sump, and skimmer, 15 kg live rock, fish = two Clownfish, three chromis and one Tailspot Blenny, invertebrates = two cleaners, three Sexy Shrimp, one Porcelain Crab, one Pom Pom Crab and snails. Corals three soft corals (one is a huge leather mushroom) Zoas, mushrooms and one Duncan. I change around 10 liters of water a week, have an auto top up (evap is around ten liters a week open top tank) Temp 26, salinity 1026, pH 8, nitrite 0, nitrate 5, ammonia 0. This below is the problem.
About two months ago I changed my salt over to a new brand ( a two part salt one solid one liquid) which my LFS recommended, due to the fact my KH was low then at 7,
<Doesn't make any sense changing salt to correct the KH problem.>
(changed from Red Sea Coral Pro) Since starting I am having problems with high Ca 650 and high Mag 1750 but low KH 4. Is the KH the problem with the ca and Mag been too high?
<The high calcium could have some effect.>
My fish, shrimps, crabs and corals seem fine , but the snails I have already lost two and a couple of the others do not move very much, one fell off the glass and stayed on its back since!
<This may be an Astrea Snail, they are not able to right themselves, a little help will be needed by you.>
The salt company said they would do tests on my water if I sent them a sample, which I did, they did not receive it until three weeks later, would the water still be correct after all this time?
<Some parameters should be.>
Anyway they have come up with the a slightly lower Ca 650 and Mag 1485 and KH 5,7 they also tested Chlor which they say is perfect. They recommend me to use a buffer for the KH and dose with a ca and Mag stabilizer.
<I would just use a buffer to raise dKH to 7-10. Regular water changes will lower the calcium and magnesium by way of dilution.>
Can you please advise as this is confusing me, are they correct? I don't want to start the regime of dosing for no reason, would it be better to change back to the old salt?
<I would not use any stabilizers, but do the water changes until parameters are back where they should be. I'm thinking you may have been overdosing calcium and magnesium before you changed the salt mix. There are no salt mixes that I am aware of that would raise calcium and magnesium to the levels you presently have. In smaller systems such as yours, overdosing can/will raise levels quickly.>
Thank you
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
regards
Benita

2 Part Dosing, High Levels 1/7/11
Evening Crew,
<Good morning Chris>
At the beginning of this week, I shut down my calcium reactor electing to try out the 2 part dosing method.
<Mmmm.>
When testing my initial levels I found that the alkalinity level was high at 17 dKH and ph was 8.42.
I attributed the high alkalinity to the Instant Ocean salt that I was using so completed a 10% water change and have been dosing calcium only in hopes that I could get it up to 400 ppm and at the same time force the lowering of the alkalinity levels.
<IO doesn't mix at that high a dKH, likely from the two part dosing. I'm not a fan of two part dosing, but if this is what your preferred method is, do not dose both products the same day/time.>
Yesterday I had my calcium level at 371 ppm and Alk at 18 so again just dosed with Calcium working on the same initial belief.
Today my levels are totally skewed !Calcium dropped to 316.7, Alkalinity soared to 21 dKH and my PH is at 9.09.
<Makes sense as high levels of dKH causes calcium to precipitate.>
What should I do?
I am going to complete another water change momentarily to try and bring some of the levels down
I am not going to dose anything tonight
Please advise your thoughts
<I would not dose anything until your dKH gets down to an acceptable level (7-9dKH).
Weekly 10-15% water changes will help by dilution of the carbonates present in your system.
Thanks in advance
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris
Re 2 Part Dosing, High Levels 1/7/11
I just retested and recalibrated my pH monitor...pH now comes in a 8.4..am thinking that it may be time for a new probe as I had just calibrated it 4 days ago.
<Possibly so, but never check the pH after you have dosed, may get an erroneous reading.>
Anyway, based on this new test, I just added the daily dose of calium <calcium> and I'll see how I look tomorrow.
<Why are you dosing calcium with a high dKH? I'd concentrate on lowering your dKH, way too high at 17.>
Ugh, why can it never be easy.
<It isn't all that difficult once you gain some knowledge about water chemistry. A good place to start
is here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
I've read that Magnesium helps equalize the 2 factors...I haven't started adding that yet as I wanted to get the other levels down..I'm thinking that maybe I should start testing and dosing.
Let me know your thoughts.
<I did let you know my thoughts and have made suggestions, why ask again.
Magnesium does not equalize anything. Magnesium is major element of seawater and is needed on a 3/1 ratio with calcium to enable corals absorb available calcium.>
Thanks again
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re 2 Part Dosing, High Levels 1/7/11
The 2 messages were sent back to back. I wasn't asking again and comments like that are not really needed.
<Mmm, I wouldn't call Thursday and Friday back to back messages, and you did respond to my original response so there was no other way I could look at it. Sorry. James (Salty Dog)>
Chris

Low Alkalinity even with a CR, Calcium Reactor 11/12/10
I really am puzzled. I've read your articles on Calcium and Alkalinity and found that a CR is considered a great way to maintain proper levels of CA and KH.
<Can be... though there are "variations" on how to "do this", and anomalies... mostly re core/media and quality of CO2 et al. reductant applied>
I have a CR in my 125g tank but I don't have many SPS corals. As a result, I saw my CA rising to pretty high levels (500+) so I dialed the drip rate back considerably.
<Might I ask you to measure, report the effluent pH of your reactant discharge water?>
I concluded that I was putting more CA in my tank than was being consumed. As a result of the reduced drip rate, I now have a KH of 6. My CA is at about 460.
<These are fine measures, levels>
To raise my KH a bit, I've begun an old routine of dosing KH
<I take it you mean/t Kalkwasser. This practice, addendum is fine as well>
using a pump that comes on for 1 minute at a time 3 times during the night, i.e. 2 a.m., 4 a.m., and 6 a.m. The drip rate is very slow to avoid a spike and hopefully raise the KH to about 7 or 8 over time.
<Ok>
My real question is why does my CR not maintain the CA and KH as expected at proper levels?
<Mmm, see the above statement. What/which media are you using? Do you have "high" quality "acid"... CO2 likely employed? What re your Magnesium concentration?>
Is the answer as simple as I really don't need a CR?
<Perhaps... what is your desire for using such?>
I would appreciate your thoughts on this.
Regards,
-gene
<Let's keep chatting this up Gene; till you're satisfied w/ your understanding. Bob Fenner>
Re: Low Alkalinity even with a CR 11/12/10
Hello Bob -- nice to hear from you! Hope you are doing well. Enjoyed seeing you in Orlando.
<Ahh, a very nice time>
The effluent readings from my CR are as follows: CA=460; KH=8 -- haven't tested the pH but will do so ASAP and report.
<These are fine values... as long as the pH is not below 6.0 I would not change much here>
The media is CaribSea A.R.M.
<Ah yes... a "natural" (with too much shell/calcite IMO) product. There are others. Do try another brand next purchase>
My CR is a dual chamber design -- and I use a PinPoint controller -- I can provide HI and LO settings if you want them.
<Nice!>
The dosing I'm doing to raise KH is Soda Ash I get from Bulk Reef Supply --
<A worthy company in my estimation>
I tested the change in pH today when the pump is on for 1 minute. It changed the pH by .05, i.e. from 8.10 to 8.15. This is occurring 3 times during the night.
<Is fine... again, I would not change this, these settings>
I use 2 different test kits: API and Salifert -- the readings are fairly similar, with Salifert more precise.
<Ah yes>
Really appreciate your help. I invested some serious money in this CR -- hoping that it would make life easier -- and for most I think it does.
<It does, and will do more if/when you are more "into" biomineralizing life>
Just can figure out why my CA rises to such high levels using it.
<Simply put there is more soluble calcium in the A.R.M. CaribSea product than ready carbonate, bicarbonate... Again, you can/could make this up in a few ways... as you are currently doing, simply adding some "baking soda"...>
That's why I backed off on the effluent drip rate -- CA was going off the chart. Now, of course, CA is more reasonable with KH in decline. With your help -- we might get this puppy dialed in properly.
Regards,
-gene
<And you, BobF>
Re: Low Alkalinity even with a CR 11/12/10
Here ya go, sir.
All numbers from the effluent:
pH = 7.6
<Whoa! I'd turn up the CO2>
CA=450 (Salifert)
KH=10.4 (Salifert)
CA=460-480 (API)
KH=9 (API)
pH of the sump water, i.e. display tank too -- 8.0 to 8.1 (calibrated today)
What media do you recommend for my CR?
-gene
<... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/calcreacmedia.htm
You can skip our corr.! B>
Re: Low Alkalinity even with a CR 11/12/10
Hey Bob -- would increasing the CO2 really do any good when using a controller?
<Mmm, yes; if the means/extremes of the setting will allow further infusion...>
i.e. wouldn't it simply speed up the process of lowering the pH of the effluent but not really change the pH of the effluent?
<If the lower setting is not reached as yet, yes>
I guess you can tell -- I have limited experience and understanding of this whole process!
Thanks,
-gene
<I'd try experimenting here a bit... changing the bubble rate, pH setting/s on your controller. BobF>
Re: Low Alkalinity even with a CR 11/13/10
I made the change yesterday afternoon. Will check the effluent later today and report
Gene
<Real good. B>

Excessive buffering requirements 5/8/10
Hi,
I have just started my first saltwater aquarium and am aiming for a pH of 8.0 at night and 8.1 in the day, but from the first beginning I have had trouble getting there.
I can get to 8.1 just barely, but only by adding 40 mls of Seachem Marine buffer or Reef Carbonate daily which doesn't raise the alkalinity only maintains it.
<...?>
The pH is measured with a calibrated Pinpoint pH monitor.
Increasing aeration, removing aquarium covers and opening windows didn't help.
<Mmm, summat up here... there's only a few inputs/outputs to consider/check in such cases... the tester/s themselves... sources... synthetic salt mix, carbonaceous materials (substrate, rock, skeletons...), exogenous
additions/supplements, reductive materials (e.g. foods...)... Have you read re on WWM?>
Aquarium: 10 weeks old, 85 gallons (24" deep), mostly covered, but 6" fan used for cooling canopy, Seachem reef salt, 52 lbs live rock, 80 lbs Arag-alive sand, 30 pounds crushed coral, Marineland C-360 filter, Remora Pro skimmer, 2 airstones (HiBlow 40 air pump, so large volume of air at that depth not a problem), 2 powerheads (600gph total), lighting Coralife 48" T5 H/O 108 W.
Livestock: 3 small green Chromis, 1 small blue hippo tang, 2 cleaner shrimp, highly effective cleaner crew
Chemistry (checked with standards and with different brand): s.g. 1.0230
(47.8 mS), NH4 - 0, NO2 - 0, NO3 - 10, alkalinity - 4.5 meq/l, Ca - 440,
<What re your Magnesium concentration?>
PO4 - .07, pO2 saturated at 78F during the day and drops by 1-2 ppm at night, I don't have a magnesium test.
<Oh, I'd get, use one>
I haven't tried Kalkwasser or the 2 part buffers. I would eventually like to have a sea star and would like to get to a more stable and possibly higher pH. I could just keep adding the buffers, but it seems like a lot.
I am wondering what is consuming all the buffer.
Kim
<Time to have you peruse what we have archived. Read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/maintindex.htm
scroll down to the sections on pH, Alkalinity... troubleshooting... it's taking too long for me to download the URLs here. Bob Fenner>
Re excessive buffering requirements 5/11/10
Hi,
So previously I had tried opening a window for an afternoon with no effect. Tried again and after a day and a half the pH dropped from 8.1 to 8.2 with no additives
<Tested in the morning?>
and the buffer requirements dropped from 40 mls/day to 20 mls every 4 days.
<Ahh! You have a tightly sealed home>
Also bought a CO detector for the house.
<Ah, good idea>
Building code requires a fresh air intake for the furnace which is not blocked but obviously cannot be relied on. Thank-you for the useful web site.
Kim
<Welcome Kim. BobF>

Re: Sudden deaths/algae outbreak, using WWM 3/7/10
Hi Crew(Bob)
<Michael>
Thanks for your reply
<Welcome>
Yes, I am familiar with your site
But maybe I need to understand the search tools better.
<Mmm, I won't make excuses for the breadth of subject material covered, nor say much re its organization/presentation here. My analog (four drawer file cabinets) and hard drive arrangement is mirrored on/as WWM... with topics presented in first to medium to last order, the organism groups arrayed logically, historically per the more recent, standard works in respective fields>
So my DKH is way to <too> high, and I need to bring it down. Am I right or wrong in the following: I need to bring DKH down and Ca up, by doing water changes and adding Calcium (Tropic Marin Bio calcium)
<Mmm, simple water changes with a decent brand of synthetic salt mix will do likely>
I usually add the calcium to the tank
<... In the way of what product/s?>
directly via the sump,
<Not a good idea... better by far to mix up with pre-made, stored seawater.. Again, this is all gone over and over on the site>
I have two small pumps there to aerate the water and to help make the calcium dissolve faster. When topping off evaporated water, I add newly made R/O water mixed with a buffer to correct PH(Usually Salifert) value to that of the tank(8.3)I add it directly to the sump. Is that alright?
<Read>
Another thing could I add the R/O water without buffering it?
<Depends on what your system water is>
and thereby bringing down DKH? Or is there any danger connected to that?
I just don`t understand how the DKH got that high?
<I'd first check your test gear... and read...>
I must say that water chemistry can be a bit confusing sometimes. Regarding the nitrates what I meant was that when I tested the tank water it read out 0, but the R/O came out with the reading 5(Salifert)
<There is summat wrong either with your RO or test kit>
Thanks for your help
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/maintindex.htm
scroll down... Re Alkalinity, this and Calcium, Magnesium... BobF>

Re: Help, sudden weird numbers 2/10/10
Simon,
<Melanie>
Perhaps I was not clear enough. the alkalinity is 5.4 dKH,
<Ahhh... the units.. essential in order to answer your question correctly, and as you have omitted them initially I have not answered correctly>
which, correct me if I'm wrong, but I am led to believe is low.
<Yes. Have you checked your test kit? Your high pH will be from a combination of factors, including the addition of the alkalinity supplement. You can add soda water or vinegar to lower it, assuming you have tested correctly.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.php>
I did not intentionally mean to insult my pets by not capitalising their names, but their species names are not proper nouns.
<I did not mean to be rude, but I am a volunteer and I spend a lot of time correcting e-mails when I should be answering pertinent questions>
I thought you would prefer the species names rather than their "given" names which we call them at home, such as Carl, Jake and Elwood, Bart, etc.
<Not a helpful comment..>
My grammar as far as I can tell, is acceptable, and I have included all that I felt was pertinent. I am confused by the question marks after my numbers, are you incredulous or do they not make sense?
<I was surprised, is all.>
We have been conscientious reef keepers since we began, and I have tried to be as concise as possible. I am understandably a little worried about the tank, and wrote the email in a hurry. You also failed to mention the
couple of spelling mistakes in it.
<This is my own time and I don't have enough of it to go through each message with a toothcomb..>
Yes, I double tested each result, and I checked both the internet and my own reference books looking for answers. Perhaps you would prefer if I don't bother you again. We live 6 hours away from any store that can help us, so you were my next choice.
<Well, I am sorry if I have upset you Melanie, I hope that my free of charge advice has been more helpful this time, Simon>