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Diagnosing disease (FW, glass
fish), Lymph. 2/2/09 Crew, I've checked your
website (used Neale's diagnosis chart) as well as Googled and can't come
up with something that fits. I need your help. I have a 20-gal tall
sparsely populated at the moment (2 glass fish and 1 dwarf Pleco). I had
a cross-species kill off about a 1 to 2 months ago (1 dwarf Gourami, 1
molly, 1 dwarf African frog, and two other glass fish). I was watching
water conditions and waiting until things settled before adding more
fish. Water conditions have consistently now been stable (0 nitrite, 0
ammonia, 10 nitrate) and higher ph (7.8+) due to municipal water source,
and I do scheduled 50-60% water changes every two weeks. But now
this. One glass fish now has white/cream colored spots that first
appeared where the side fins attached to its body. Now it's on both side
fins and at the base of the tail. There are no lesions at its mouth (so
not cotton-wool disease) and the fins are not rotting away (so no fin
rot). I've dealt w/ ick before - this isn't it. And I wouldn't say the
spots are cauliflower or raspberry like. There are no other symptoms
except to say that the sick one is being bullied by the second remaining
glass fish. Oh - and we moved the tank from one room to the another
about three weeks ago (yes. a stressor for sure). I was going to add
about 6 - 10 more glass fish (as I know they do better in numbers) but
now I don't know if that is such a good idea. I tried to get pictures
but my camera and fish isn't cooperating. Any thoughts on what I am
dealing with? And any thoughts on treatment? I can't imagine a lone
glassfish would do well in a QT. Given this, would it be wise to add the
other glass fish at this point? I go back and forth between adding the
community that makes the remaining two feel more comfortable (lessening
stress) w/ possibility of these white/yellowish spots being contagious.
Hmmmm. Thanks! Kristi <Hi Kristi. This is almost certainly
Lymphocystis, a viral disease that Glassfish are rather prone to. On the
plus side, it isn't fatal, it's not contagious to other types of fish,
and all else being good, they do recover in time. The down side is that
it takes a while to get better, if it does at all. Here's my thoughts
about Lympho and Glassfish. I've never had to deal with it, but I
keep my specimens in soft to moderately hard water. The people who know
that do get it, tend to be keeping them in hard freshwater. It's
also very common on painted Glassfish. So my gut feeling is that it's
more or less likely to appear (or go away) depending on what we might
consider "environmental" stresses. This isn't to say Glassfish can't be
kept in hard water, or even brackish water, as old books used to
suggest, but I suspect that for whatever reason, doing so tips the
balance in favour of the virus. In any case, there isn't much you can
do, and with luck it'll go away in a few months. Check water quality,
optimise (vary!) diet, and generally do anything you can to help this
fish feel happy. Adding some more specimens might be entirely
appropriate, if that dissipates some of the aggression. I do agree that
Glassfish are semi-aggressive in small numbers. Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Diagnosing disease (FW, glass
fish) - 02/08/09 Update - the infected fish (see email below) is now
missing part of his back tail fin. The membrane and fin rays are both missing.
However, the side fins do not appear to have any damage...although that was one
of the first places the white-ish spots appeared. These white-ish spots have
also appeared on his top eyelids, however his eyes remain clear. I did add 10
glass fish - so now we have a full community of 12 glass fish, along with a lone
dwarf Pleco. Unfortunately, the new glass fish stock came w/ white spot (ich) so
I'm about to start treatment for that. So, in addition to the ich treatment,
do I treat for Finrot or do an anti-fungal as suggested by 11B in the Neale's
trouble-shooting table? Please suggest specific products as I have not dealt
w/ either Finrot or fungi issues before. If I cannot treat concurrently w/
the ich, which one should I concentrate on first? Help! Kristi <Hello
Kristi. If fin material is disappearing, then some sort of Finrot is probable.
Fungus often appears at the same time. Both Finrot and Fungus are infections of
damaged or diseased tissue exposed to the environment. Anyway, here in
England there are antibacterial medications based on copper, formalin, and/or
organic dyes (malachite green, methylene blue) that treat both together, for
example eSHa 2000. While antibiotics (such as Maracyn) work well against Finrot,
they have little to no impact on Fungus, so if you choose to use an antibiotic,
you will need to treat with an anti-fungal medication as well. The main
thing is to avoid either salt or tea-tree oil (e.g., Melafix, Pimafix) as
neither of these are reliable cures. Whilst I'm not overly familiar with the US
marketplace, products such as Seachem Sulfathiazole and Seachem NeoPlex are
stated by the manufacturers to cure both. Cheers, Neale.>
Questions about stocking with glassfish and guppies – 06/26/08
Hello, my name is Jean.
<Hi Jean!>
Your site is a font of wonderful information! Keep up the good work!
<Thanks.>
I have a 20 gallon tall freshwater tank. I currently have 3 guppies and 3
(formerly painted) glassfish in it. I know I should keep my glassfish in larger
schools, so I do plan on getting more (unpainted!) glassfish soon. Additionally,
I think all 3 of my guppies are male (I think what I see is a gonopodium on
each, and no one has ever gotten pregnant), but they do not seem to be bothering
each other too much, no nipping at all. I had another psycho guppy previously
who was a killing machine, I returned him.
<Fairly common for male Guppies to be highly aggressive. Does rather depend on
the number of fish, size of the tank.>
My questions are: What additional fish can I add to this tank that will get
along with my glassfish and guppies? Should I do anything about having all male
guppies, if they seem to be doing alright? I'm not itching for fry right now! I
would like any additions to my tank to be peaceful, as I don't want another
psycho killer fish.
<Glassfish will mix with anything that doesn't actually eat them. I keep mine in
a tank with South American puffers, Corydoras, halfbeaks, Limia nigrofasciata,
and various catfish and tetras.>
Further, I add about 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons to my tank, for
the sake of the glassfish and general health. The guppies don't mind.
<Neither Glassfish nor Guppies need salt. In fact the Glassfish traded in the
hobby are all freshwater fish. The idea they NEED salt is likely down to
misidentification, with the fish being sold (Parambassis spp.) being mistake for
brackish water Ambassis spp.>
My hardness (GH) is a constant 120 ppm, and my pH is currently at 6.8.
<Ideal for Glassfish and indeed most other soft water fish. Tetras and Corydoras
would be excellent options. Guppies do tend to be sickly in soft water and at
acidic pH levels, and your addition of salt is certainly helping here somewhat.
Still, I'd tend to phase out livebearers in favour of true soft water fish.>
What other fish can I add considering the salt level? I've considered mollies
but can't they be aggressive, especially with the guppies?
<Mollies and Guppies can fight, so not a good combo. Besides, your tank is WAY
too small for Mollies.>
Further, are there any bottom feeders that would be o.k. in this environment? (I
love exotic little Plecos, like Bristlenoses, but heard they can't stand the
salt).
<Ancistrus and hardy Corydoras species can easily tolerate low salt levels such
as those you are using. Anything measured in spoons is inaccurate, so forgive me
for not using such methods. But normal seawater has 35 grammes of marine salt
mix per litre. One-tenth salinity would be easily tolerated by Corydoras and
Ancistrus, and works out at 3.5 grammes per litre. But to be honest, I'd bin the
Guppies, or rather ignore salt and instead harden the water in a more effective
way using Malawi Salt mixes, such as:
Per 5 gallons/20 litres
1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
1 tablespoon Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)
1 teaspoon marine salt mix (sodium chloride + trace elements)
This is easy to make up using stuff from drug stores, grocery stores and/or pet
stores and costs pennies per water change. For the fish you're keeping,
one-quarter to one-half the dose described above would be ample. For guppies,
you're after pH 7.5, 10-20 degrees dH.>
Thanks so much!
<Cheers, Neale.>
Questions
about stocking with glassfish and guppies – 06/26/08
Hello, my name is Jean.
<Hi Jean!>
Your site is a font of wonderful information! Keep up the good work!
<Thanks.>
I have a 20 gallon tall freshwater tank. I currently have 3 guppies and 3
(formerly painted) glassfish in it. I know I should keep my glassfish in
larger schools, so I do plan on getting more (unpainted!) glassfish soon.
Additionally, I think all 3 of my guppies are male (I think what I see is a
gonopodium on each, and no one has ever gotten pregnant), but they do not
seem to be bothering each other too much, no nipping at all. I had another
psycho guppy previously who was a killing machine, I returned him.
<Fairly common for male Guppies to be highly aggressive. Does rather depend
on the number of fish, size of the tank.>
My questions are: What additional fish can I add to this tank that will get
along with my glassfish and guppies? Should I do anything about having all
male guppies, if they seem to be doing alright? I'm not itching for fry
right now! I would like any additions to my tank to be peaceful, as I don't
want another psycho killer fish.
<Glassfish will mix with anything that doesn't actually eat them. I keep
mine in a tank with South American puffers, Corydoras, halfbeaks, Limia
nigrofasciata, and various catfish and tetras.>
Further, I add about 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons to my tank,
for the sake of the glassfish and general health. The guppies don't mind.
<Neither Glassfish nor Guppies need salt. In fact the Glassfish traded in
the hobby are all freshwater fish. The idea they NEED salt is likely down to
misidentification, with the fish being sold (Parambassis spp.) being mistake
for brackish water Ambassis spp.>
My hardness (GH) is a constant 120 ppm, and my pH is currently at 6.8.
<Ideal for Glassfish and indeed most other soft water fish. Tetras and
Corydoras would be excellent options. Guppies do tend to be sickly in soft
water and at acidic pH levels, and your addition of salt is certainly
helping here somewhat. Still, I'd tend to phase out livebearers in favour of
true soft water fish.>
What other fish can I add considering the salt level? I've considered
mollies but can't they be aggressive, especially with the guppies?
<Mollies and Guppies can fight, so not a good combo. Besides, your tank is
WAY too small for Mollies.>
Further, are there any bottom feeders that would be o.k. in this
environment? (I love exotic little Plecos, like Bristlenoses, but heard they
can't stand the salt).
<Ancistrus and hardy Corydoras species can easily tolerate low salt levels
such as those you are using. Anything measured in spoons is inaccurate, so
forgive me for not using such methods. But normal seawater has 35 grammes of
marine salt mix per litre. One-tenth salinity would be easily tolerated by
Corydoras and Ancistrus, and works out at 3.5 grammes per litre. But to be
honest, I'd bin the Guppies, or rather ignore salt and instead harden the
water in a more effective way using Malawi Salt mixes, such as:
Per 5 gallons/20 litres
1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
1 tablespoon Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)
1 teaspoon marine salt mix (sodium chloride + trace elements)
This is easy to make up using stuff from drug stores, grocery stores and/or
pet stores and costs pennies per water change. For the fish you're keeping,
one-quarter to one-half the dose described above would be ample. For
guppies, you're after pH 7.5, 10-20 degrees dH.>
Thanks so much!
<Cheers, Neale.>
Old Discussion on Dragon Goby, New Discussion on Glassfish, BW
plt.s 2/22/07
On 2/20/07, crew
<crew@mail.wetwebmedia.com> wrote:
Dragon Gobies Stuck in Aquarium Ornaments 2/20/07
[...]<Actually, that's exactly where my Dragon lives. The fake mangrove
root I have in my BW tank, has an end of one of the roots broken off & he slips
inside it & lives in there. He has no problem turning around inside the
ornament & comes out often, to eat.>
LOL how cool :) I'm such a worry-wart (my girls call him "Mama's little bog
monster.") - just had this vision of the poor little guy getting stuck in
something like that.
< [...]<Sounds like a happy life for your Dragon!>
So far so good! I've bought 2 glassfish (au naturale, no ink thanks) -
Chanda ranga, for the brackish tank They are still in quarantine, but for all
I've read, they should be good tankmates for him. I know that they were eating
flake food in the store but I can't seem to get them to eat anything so far
(have tried flake food, frozen brineshrimp, frozen AND freeze-dried bloodworms,
freeze-dried plankton). I've read varying accounts of glassfish,
some say they are good eaters, others say they need live food. They are
very timid, I'm wondering if they would eat better if there were more of them in
my tank (5 or 6 total)?
<<A school of them would be nice. They may just be adjusting to their new
home.>>
I don't even know where to get live food - I tried to grow my own brine
shrimp for my livebearer fry but I'm filing that one under "failed experiment."
<<I get blackworms from my LFS. Rinsed well in a brine shrimp net & stored
in a shallow container with a little water, in the refrigerator. My dragon's
favorite food!>>
Seems like I read that you have a planted brackish tank?
<Nope, I have a 90g planted discus tank. No surviving plants in my BW
tank. ~PP>
Heheh well that might be us pretty soon too, I have read it's very hard to
keep plants in salty water. What about marine plants though? Do you think any
of them could do well in BW?
<Marine plants won't fair well till a SG of around 1.018. There are many BW
plants that folks have success with, just not worth the trouble for me, since I
already have a FW planted tank I'm happy with. Here's a great thread on BW
plants:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4792&highlight=brackish+plants ~PP>
Thanks again, Cathy
Sick glass fish, ich, insufficient info. 1/19/07
My glass fish have what appears to be ich. However when I treated for it, it
didn't work. I then just as a last ditch effort (I'm a fish novice) used a anti
bacterial powder and now it seems to be getting better. Any clue what it could
be???
<Likely is Ich... but not treated "thoroughly"... in a carbonate-free setting,
with elevated temperature, a lack of chemical filtration... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: sick glass fish 1/19/07
Thanks... i
<I>
use aquarium salt in my tank and did take out the carbon filter, but didn't know
to raise the temp. Are there any signs I will notice from the temp increase?
<Mmm, perhaps more rapid to labored breathing, faster, more movement>
That way I want freak out if they are acting different.
Also, since the antibacterial med seems to be working, should I continue with
that as my course of treatment or go back to the ich cure medicine?
<The latter>
Any tricks of the trade to keeping fish happy, healthy would also be
appreciated!
<Read the FAQs files as directed... Bob Fenner>
Stocking with glassfish and guppies 5/27/06
Hello, my name is Jean.
<<Hello, Jean. Mine's Tom.>>
Your site is a font of wonderful information! Keep up the good work!
<<Thank you kindly and I'll do my best for you.>>
I have a 20 gallon tall freshwater tank.
<<Okay. (I'll make a little "mental note" that it's "tall".>>
I currently have 3 guppies and 3 (formerly painted) glassfish in it. I know
I should keep my glassfish in larger schools, so I do plan on getting more
(unpainted!) glassfish soon. Additionally, I think all 3 of my guppies are
males (I think what I see is a gonopodium on each, and no one has ever
gotten pregnant), but they do not seem to be bothering each other too much,
no nipping at all. I had another psycho guppy previously who was a killing
machine, I returned him.
<<Hmmm...a psycho Guppy. I understand what you're saying but, you must
admit, it sounds a little humorous.>>
My questions are: What additional fish can I add to this tank that will get
along with my glassfish and guppies?
<<Provided you quarantine first, any of the smaller varieties of Tetras
should be fine. Cardinals, Neons, Black Neons, et. al. A "tall" tank doesn't
have the surface area for a great deal of gas/oxygen exchange so you're
better off with small fish. I, additionally, would stress quarantine with
the Neons. 'Neon Tetra Disease' isn't isolated to these fish only. There's
no known treatment and it's virtually 100% fatal to any fish that contracts
it. Bad news? I know of this first-hand. Good news? They were quarantined
when it killed 11 out of 12 of my Black Neons. As you might surmise, I can't
stress 'quarantine' enough.>>
Should I do anything about having all male guppies, if they seem to be doing
alright?
<<If you don't see any problems arising I wouldn't worry.>>
I'm not itching for fry right now!
<<Understood.>>
I would like any additions to my tank to be peaceful, as I don't want
another psycho killer fish.
<<I'll leave Piranhas out of the equation then... :)>>
Further, I add about 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons to my tank,
for the sake of the glassfish and general health. The guppies don't mind. My
hardness (gH) is a constant 120 ppm, and my pH is currently at 6.8. What
other fish can I add considering the salt level?
<<Just about any.>>
I've considered mollies but can't they be aggressive, especially with the
guppies?
<<Depends on the fish, Jean. I can't tell you that a lot of this isn't a
'crap shoot'. Mollies are great fish and typically mild-mannered and
peaceful. Can you wind up with a "rogue"? Sure you can. I've heard of fish
that should never get along becoming "buddies". We try to advise based on
"likelihoods", not certainties. Anyone who tells you differently hasn't done
his/her research.>>
Further, are there any bottom feeders that would be o.k. in this
environment? (I love exotic little Plecos, like bristlenoses, but heard they
can't stand the salt).
<<It's true that Catfish, generally, don't appreciate salt in the water but
one tablespoon per five gallons isn't likely to be a problem at all. A lot
of times, when salt 'treatment' is recommended - at much higher dosages than
you have - we advise against such when Catfish are living in the aquarium.
If I had one admonition here it would be to return back to the size of your
tank. Bristlenose Plecos tend to stay small but get large enough that
oxygenation might be an issue. If it were a long tank, with a larger
"footprint", I'd tell you to go for it.>>
Thanks so much!
<<Hopefully, I've been of some help, Jean. Tom>>
Glassfish... not all brackish... Very useful input re husbandry of
Ambassids/Chandids - 2/11/2006
Dear Robert,
<Neale>
I hope you're keeping well.
<Trying... intermittently>
I wanted to drop you a line about glassfish. While the idea that these fish
need salty water has been around for years (and I certainly
believed it to be true) this does seem to be a myth.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/glassfishes.htm
<Ah, yes>
Currently, there are at least 8 species traded more or less regularly in the
UK, and I'd imagine this holds true for the United States as well.
<Most places, just two...>
The “dwarf” species sold as Indian or common glassfish are Parambassis
ranga, Parambassis siamensis, and Parambassis lala, in that
order of frequency. They are quite tricky to distinguish when small, though
as adults P. ranga at 7 cm is almost twice as big as the
smallest species, P. lala. Essentially, P. ranga has a vague dark spot
behind the eye, P. lala has three vertical bands, and P. siamensis has
no markings at all. P. siamensis is also distinctly elongate compared with
the others. Male P. ranga can have whitish edges to the pelvic
fins while P. lala have white-blue edges to the anal and dorsal fins. Two
other species of Parambassis are traded, these are the “giant”
Glassfishes, P. wolffii and P. pulcinella. The later needs no description —
its common name of hump-headed glassfish describes it
pretty well. The other species has only recently reappeared in the
marketplace. The last time I saw them was twenty years ago. These are
large fish, around 20 cm long, and highly predatory, schooling predators.
One final glassfish that has also reappeared in UK shops is Gymnochanda
filamentosa. This is a small species (4 cm at most) notable for the
greatly extended dorsal and anal fin rays on the males. According to Frank
Schäfer in the recent Aqualog ‘Brackish Water
Fishes’ book, all species of Parambassis and Gymnochanda are found either
primarily or exclusively in freshwater habitats.
<This is also stated on fishbase.org>
Of the list species mentioned above, the ones he says are sometimes found in
slightly brackish water are P. ranga and P. lala. All the others, he
insists, are freshwater fish, some even from blackwater habits. For the last
year I have been keeping P. ranga in a soft, acid aquarium (pH
6.5, DH < 7) with no problems at all. In fact, quite the reverse: these fish
have grown very rapidly, and have proved to be aggressive at
feeding time and exceptionally hardy, in particular showing a marked
resistance to whitespot.
<Well-stated>
In my brackish water book due out later this year, I say as much, and
suggest that most glassfish are freshwater species and only some are
salt tolerant, and I have tried to clarify this issue in an article in
Practical Fishkeeping (Crystal clear: keeping glassfish, February, 2006).
<Very good>
My experience with P. ranga also suggests that live foods are not required.
Mine admittedly only show moderate interest in frozen
bloodworms, but they greedily take frozen lobster eggs and small pieces of
cooking shrimps. The lobster eggs can be obtained from aquarium
stores dealing with marine invertebrates and make an excellent staple. Live
foods such as Daphnia and mosquito larvae are, of course, very
readily eaten, and I would imagine that they would eat small livebearer fry,
too. These glassfish have proved to be robust community fish, and
have coexisted happily with Celebes halfbeaks, a South American puffer,
cardinal tetras, and a variety of other small to medium sized fish.
They are exceptionally fast swimmers, and seem perfectly able to avoid
trouble from things like territorial dwarf cichlids. One surprise has
been how readily they school with hatchetfish, and oddly enough, how happy
the hatchetfish seem to be with glassfish. They make a nice combination.
Finally, Schäfer also suggests that the species of glassfish most commonly
dyed is P. siamensis.
<I have/had thought they were P. ranga>
I cannot verify this: very few, if any, aquarium stores in England still
offer painted glassfish.
<Good for them>
But certainly the image on your web site reminds me more of that species
than P. ranga. To my eye at least, P. siamensis is about 3 times as long as
it
is deep, while the other two dwarf glassfish are only 2 times as long as
they are deep.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MiscFishPIX/Parambassis_rangaLymph.jpg
<I see>
It is, I suppose, possible that there are populations of P. ranga and P.
lala that come from brackish water and need salt added to the
aquarium; all I can say is that adding salt should be thought of more as a
supplement for glassfish that are obviously not healthy rather
than as a staple required by all of them.
I hope that this is useful, and wish you all the very best.
Sincerely,
Neale
<Thank you for this valuable input Neale. Will post/share. Look forward to
your new book. Bob Fenner>
Painted Glass[fish] AKA "Tetras" Parambassis (Chanda) ranga 5/23/03
WWM Crew,
<cheers, Andy>
As I have recently found out my Painted Glass Tetras are actually a type of
perch -
http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art7686.asp,
I would like to know what kind of conditions are good for them and what other
fish can I put with them?
<we have an FAQ page dedicated to them here, my friend:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/chandidfaqs.htm
and much more info on fishbase.org here:
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?ID=10130&genusname=Parambassis&speciesname=ranga
P.S. I would like to commend you on your website and the information it
contains. I have learned quite a bit from reading your site and I have put it in
my web browser favorites.
<thanks kindly! It is redeeming for us to hear. Best regards, Anthony>
Painted Glass tetras (Ambassids)
We recently purchased some Painted Glass Tetras. They look really nice. But
when I was doing some research on them (something I will do BEFORE I buy anymore
fish), I found that they may not be real tetras and their coloring is injected.
Is this true? Andy Barnes
<Unfortunately this is true. The fish aren’t true “Tetras”, they are actually a
member of the Perch family. And their bright colors are nothing more than a dye
that is injected into them and it often leads to early deaths and illnesses. For
more information there’s a good article at http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art7686.asp
Ronni>
Use of Glassfish images on/from WWM
Mr. Fenner,
Before the weekend i was contacted by the largest newspaper in Norway. They are
doing an article on aquarium fish manipulated by man.
I have been asked to supply them with pictures of different fish and have found
most of the pictures they need, but i have no good pictures of Chanda
ranga with colour injections.
I found pictures on
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/glassfishes.htm
and i am now looking for the right man to ask for permission to use these
pictures in the paper.
I would be happy if you could help me with this, and i must also say that the
reporter wanted the pictures "yesterday".
Please let me know if or if not you can help.
PC
<As the newspaper is borderline commercial/educational I'll side with allowing
these images use. Are you able to use the size, resolution of the images on our
site? Do you need larger scans?
Bob Fenner>
Per Christian Hasselgreen
Oslo Akvarieklub
Karl Staafs vei 1
0665 Oslo
Oslo, Norway
tlf +47 22 65 05 69
mob +47 98 61 05 82
pch@chello.no
Use of Glassfish images on/from WWM
Hi,
I am very happy that you will let us use the photos. I agree that the newspaper
is borderline, but it is after all the intention to bring light on
the problems in the aquarium hobby. Therefore I have not charged them for the
other photos we have delivered.
<Ah, good>
I feel that it is important that we get this in the papers now that they are
interested in us. Norway may actually get a change from the government
hearings that are happening right now. We (three aquarium organizations) were
actually asked to have an extra meeting with the government committee
after the first hearing to discuss what measurements can be taken.
<Are Sven Fossa and Alf Nilsen involved? I do hope so... they are Norwegians and
very much at the forefront of the (marine) aquarium interest. Are you, your
organizations familiar with John Dawes? the OFI? I am cc'ing them here as an
introduction.>
If you could please send the Fotos and name of who took it and granted
permissions me I shall pass it on to the paper. I'll keep you posted on the
development.
<I am the photographer. What size, format are you looking for? We can (re)scan
and send them to you over the Internet>
I am not the one to answer what resolution is needed in the paper, so i would be
happy if I could have a picture with higher resolution to send to
the reporter so they can choose.
Gratefully,
PC Hasselgreen
<Tiff's? Of what output size? 300 dpi? Bob Fenner>
Re: SV: SV: Oslo, Norway
Hi Mr. Fenner,
As I said, i don't know what format or resolution is best for them. Cant we just
give them a large tiff file and then let them shrink it if they want?
<I will contact the person whose email you've sent along and ask specifically>
I think that it will be rather big in the paper, as she was most very keen on
getting this picture. I really have no idea. The pictures go to the
Journalist called line.dugstad@vg.no
Svein Fossa is the representative for "Norsk Zoobransje Forening" which is the
organization for shops here in Norway. He was therefore involved in the
same hearing as us. He has contributed with some photos, too. Those were of
colour-bathed fish. Alf Nilsen i must admit, i don't know, but then again I am
not into salt water, except when diving, which is not often, as I live in cold,
cold
Norway.
<Mmm, he is a partner in writing with Svein, both are very knowledgeable about
issues in the hobby, trade, science of ornamental aquatics. Svein has contacted
me re our correspondence. Bob Fenner>
PC
Re: SV: SV: Oslo, Norway
Mr. Fenner.
I am off to Sweden to buy some fish today. I'll be leaving in 20 minutes. I will
not be able to use my phone after 2 hours from now, and of course
unable to read mail. If you are able to send the pictures today, please send
them to line.dugstad@vg.no
She is the reporter who is covering this.
<No worries. I will wait on her response to re-scan, send>
Thank you very much for all your trouble so far,
Gratefully
PC
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Re: SV: Oslo, Norway
Hi Bob,
<Hi Svein>
Thanks for Cc'ing me in on this. I am actually involved in both the parliament
(and previously government) hearings on animal welfare, and the
newspaper article. The hearings is something I've been involved with for years
as a consultant to the Norwegian Pet Trade Assoc. The newspaper issue
came about because P.C. Hasselgreen actually referred the journalist to me,
referring to me as his "sharpest enemy" - no less! :-)
<Ah, good. Just wanted to make sure these folks were aware of you, your
involvement, expertise>
As you may know, I will be addressing the Aquarama Conference in May on exactly
the topic of "man made fish", so ethical dilemmas and controversies
surrounding these issues is a great concern to me.
<Yes>
Unfortunately, some people in the Norwegian hobbyist organizations have a
tendency not to listen to reason (at least not when it comes from someone that
is associated with the aquatic industry, like myself). I would wish they could
tread carefully when it comes to aiming for negative publicity on aquarium
keeping - but
they seem rather to want to create as much fuss as possible.
<Unfortunately... human nature dictates that some vocal minority will often look
for "trouble", to draw attention to themselves more than seeking to
understand...>
Getting media interest for any issue is always easier when they smell a scandal.
I can only hope and pray that any positive effects of whatever the
newspaper decides to run, will be greater than the negative ones.
Regards,
Svein
<Agreed. See you in Singapore. Bob Fenner>
Re: glass fish
Hi Bob~
I just wanted to let you know that I really enjoyed your book "The Conscientious
Marine Aquarist", and it definitely influenced my decision to study Aquarium
Science at Michigan State University next fall. Thanks for all the great
information that you have passed along both on the site and in your book.
<Glad to be a positive influence>
I was on the Wet Web Media site, and noticed that you have glassfish in the
brackish section stating that they need both salt in the aquarium and live foods
to survive. I have had three of these fish for the past couple of years in my
community tank with no salt, and only flake foods. They are about 1 1/2 inches
long currently, and I was wondering if I should make some changes to my tank or
move these fish. When I bought these fish, I was never told that they needed to
be moved into brackish conditions.
<Interesting... Chanda ranga? Well, our experiences definitely differ here. This
is a stock item (unfortunately "colored" too often) in the aquarium trade... and
so have sold over many years time (in the past). Please see here for someone
else's input:
http://216.239.37.100/search?q=cache:OfDbbS4T-VsC:perso.club-internet.fr/vmillat/tropical
fish/fish/chanda_ranga.htm+chanda+ranga
&hl=en&i.e=UTF-8
fishbase.org was running too slow...>
Any information that you could pass along I would greatly appreciate.
Thank you,
Melody Scott
<Thank you for the input. Bob Fenner>
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