AnchorWrmFAQs

Featured
Sponsor:

FAQs on Anchorworms, Lernaeid Parasites of Freshwater Fishes

Look like an anchor, a worm?

Goldfish Parasite 11/07/08
Hello crew. Recently I looked at my goldfish and noticed sort of a white thing sticking out of his skin. It looks sort of like a pimple. I researched, but I could not find a picture that looked like the parasite on my fish. Can it be some type of anchor worm? Are there many different species, because this parasite does not look exactly like the pictures online. For example, it does not have a forked tail. What should I do? Pull it off? In the meantime, I dosed the tank with a 0.3% concentration of salt. Hopefully it will kill the parasite.
Thanks.
<Greetings. Anchor worms are very distinctive, and obviously look like small black anchors stuck to the body of the fish. They're pretty uncommon in aquaria, and are more of a pond thing. Anyway, fish can get "pimples" for all kinds of reasons. Goldfish have spawning tubercles on the face when sexually mature, and many aquarists mistake these for parasites. Small wounds cause by rough objects in the tank or careless handling can develop into little blisters. These usually go away by themselves, but treating for Finrot/Fungus proactively isn't a bad idea. Whitespot and Velvet both form white cysts on the skin. Dead skin looks like white fragments; Finrot looks similar but with red inflammation, while Fungus looks like white cotton threads. There are also things called Fish Lice (Argulus) that may be observed as round, off-white parasites on the skin. These are also a pond rather than aquarium problem most of the time. In other words, without a better description or a sharp photograph, we can't diagnose the problem.
I've listed the more probable explanations here: now spend some time researching each of them to diagnose the problem yourself. Cheers, Neale.>

Anchor worms on Rainbowfish, reading 8/9/08
Hello WWM Crew! You are the best! After finally getting our 20 gallon tank established and balanced - got rid of Planaria problem after being educated about overfeeding habit - we decided it was safe to introduce 2 Turquoise Rainbowfish to our community - 3 Emperor Tetras, 3 Scissortail Rasboras, 1 Swordtail and 2 Mystery Snails that I would like to get rid of, but my daughter loves them - and no one in Orlando sells Nerites. We also have 1 surviving Gourami hatchling (3 wks old and a little bigger than 1 cm > now) in a breeder net being fed baby brine shrimp that we hatch ourselves. (Parents are off to a new home after spawning). Thought I was safe getting the Rainbows from my local reputable LFS, so sadly did not quarantine - and lo and behold - Rainbow 1 has a big fat anchor worm (almost 1 cm long) just below his dorsal fin near his tail, also has a little wispy white fuzz on his mouth. Rainbow 2 has slight fuzzy mouth as well. I checked your site and others pretty thoroughly and am confident this is really an anchor worm. Not sure what's on the mouth though. Picked up Clout today - have no hospital tank, so treated entire tank with Clout this evening
<Need to remove the adult Anchorworm (with tweezers) and the snails>
- per instructions - and will pray for the best. Question, after treatment is complete - and IF I am successful in getting rid of the parasite(s), would you recommend a complete teardown of the tank to clean the substrate as well?
<Mmm, no>
Or is the Clout treatment sufficient?
<Can be>
I would hate to have a reinfection.
<Actually, reinfestation>
The tank is well planted and I read on WWM, that I can dip the plants in alum and water. Do I rinse in clean de-chlorinated water again before re- planting, or just straight from alum dip back into tank.

Also - would a complete teardown require re-cycling the tank before re-introducing
<Depending on how thoroughly the tank, contents were sterilized. Again, I would not take the tank down...>
the fish, or is the filter biomedia safe once treated with the Clout in the system?
<Safe? "It" is largely unaffected by the ingredients>
Just learned you have written 2 books on marine aquaria - will you writing one for freshwater enthusiasts as well?
<Mmm, have done... parts/most all of which is "in articles" that are WWM in part...>
Thanks again in advance for your help that is always spot on! Sandy
<Please do read (again?) here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm
Again, adult Lernaeids must be physically removed... the organophosphate will NOT treat/kill them on the fish... the Mystery Snails must be removed during treatment... Bob Fenner>

More help needed please Re: Anchor worms on Rainbowfish 8/9/08
Today:
Rainbow 1 - the main part of the Anchor Worm has fallen off, but small trails remain.
<So?>
Rainbow 2 developed a smaller anchor worm extension, which is now gone. Mild fluff remains on both mouths - is this Ich, or something to do with the Anchor Worms? Is it treatable with Clout as well?
<... not likely>
Since the anchor worm is still partially in the fish - I will attempt to remove and apply mercurochrome as well -
<Ahh!>
should I administer a second dose and if so, how much longer can I safely use the CLOUT to ensure eradication?
<Is posted on the package...>
If so, I plan to do partial 25-30% water change and then add second dose according to package instructions.
<Good>
After much reading, I have learned that there are probably anchor worm eggs throughout my tank now and that Clout will not kill the eggs.
<Correct>
How do I get rid of this problem for good?
<Keep reading>
I saw your link about DTHP, but that was for use in a pond. How can I use it in a small 20 gallon aquarium safely?
<Mmm... you are using it... more reading>
ALSO NOW - I noticed one mystery snail slowing down today.
<... what is going on? Oh... not enough reading>
I removed both after reading your reply.
<Ah, good>
Thanks. I put them in a bag to acclimate them to the other tank when I noticed what I think are small black parasites on the fleshy part of one snail and some in the water in the bag - about a dozen. They are smooth, narrow and elongated about 2-3mm long each and less than 1 mm wide. I noticed some at the top of the gravel as well. What can this be and what do I need to do about it?
>Nada...<
So now they are in a bucket with clean tank water from another tank until further notice.
I specifically asked my "expert" at the LFS if Clout was safe for the snails, - he said yes. I will have to find a new LFS.
<Blame the act not the child>
Besides the Rainbowfish, all others are healthy - so far - but I assume I have to treat as if they have also been infected/infested - correct?
<You've treated the system...>
Would it be wise to add Aquarium salt as a therapeutic measure for the rainbowfish right now?
<No wisdom; no>
What about the water temp? Would it help to elevate the temp or not? Temp is usually in the 78-79 degree F range.
<Ditto>
Off to get mercurochrome and wait for your reply.
Thanks again ever so much.
Sandy
<Bob>

Final update with question Re: More help needed please Re: Anchor worms on Rainbowfish 8/10/08
I did TRY to get any remaining parts of the anchor worm out, but it was too limp to grasp even with tweezers. I ended up grabbing a scale and thought it best to stop there. It seems a bit more firm today, so I will try one more time.
<Mmm, likely no to not enough need/use in such trying... if dead, the adult will simply dissolve...>
After reading some more and watching the snails in the bucket, I think what I saw was actually just copious snail waste - I hope so.
<Likely so>
Both Rainbows seem to be on the mend. They seem to be swimming less erratically now, and the others seem no worse for wear. Will stop the treatment today and insert new carbon into filter. Will do several water changes every few days over the next few weeks. I read that because of the anchor worm life cycle, I need to watch closely over the next few weeks to see if they come back - and that they probably will - and then will have to treat with Clout again.
<Yes>
I also came across this: http://www.zamzows.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1688&newsType=ArticleView&articleId=659
I assume Clout does not contain Dimilin, or else it would state that it would also interrupt the life cycle.
<... Please... stop just speculating... The contents of this AP product are posted: http://www.aq-products.com/MSDSsheets/Regular%20Line%20MSDS/CLOUT%20%20CL%20%20ISSUE%201%20.doc
Avail yourself of what is pertinent, useful... Wishing you and your livestock well, BobF>

Salt- Koi- Goldfish... and Anchorworm evidently 8/5/08
Dear WetWeb Crew, Could someone there tell me the correct amount of salt to use for medicinal purposes-salt bathes. My Koi and Gold fish have a parasite on them. It looks like a barb or needle sticking out of the base of the dorsal fin. Also how long should I leave them in the salt solution. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thanks for your time. John.
<The following is a table modified from "The Interpet Manual of Fish Health", a useful little book:
---
0.1% (1 gramme per litre): General additive for livebearers or in tanks where fish show physical damage (i.e., lesions, fin damage). Use in the aquarium.
0.3% (3 g/l): Reduces nitrite toxicity or to treat physical damage. Use in the aquarium.
0.3-0.5% (3-5 g/l): To control Hydra. Use in the aquarium for no more than 5 to 7 days, then change water to gradually reduce salinity.
1% (10 g/l): To treat ulcer disease on coldwater fish. Acclimate fish gradually and then reduce salinity gradually once fish are cured.
2-3% (20-30 g/l): To remove leeches from pond fish. Use as a bath, with fish put into bath for 15-30 minute dips.
---
In you case, it sounds like you have leeches or anchor worm. Salt dips will certainly deal with leeches, but anchor worms will need a specific treatment of some sort. Salt won't help because the free-living stages are in the water column, so even if the adults are killed, another generation of anchor worms will find their way onto your fish. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/contrpdparasit.htm
Your local pond supplier may well have a variety of other treatments available.
Cheers, Neale.>

sick orander - stick like threads sticking out of bodies... Mis-stocked, uncycled Goldfish system of too small size, Anchorworms 4/19/08
Hi, Firstly apologies if there is info on your site about this. I have scoured Google and your site for many hours and finding nothing that sounded like this, I finally decided I need to ask for direct help!
About 4 and a half weeks ago we bought a 15 gallon cold water tank, under gravel filter, pump, gravel, and live plants as a present for our 4 year old son to start having his first pet. Before buying it we went to the pet store and asked advice about what we could have in it, how long we needed to run the tank before introducing the fish, which ones could go together etc etc. They recommended two small Oranders
<Orandas, fancy goldfish... will need more room than this...>
and said the tank needed to run for at least 48 hours before introducing the fish.
<Uhh, no... more time... to cycle... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm>
We let it run for 72 hours, floated the bag with the fish for 20 minutes and so our journey began.
'Goldie' and 'Parp' (he's a four year old boy - what do you expect him to call them?!) appeared happy at first but on day three we became concerned about Goldie 'she' was listless and hanging at the top of the water but not gasping. The shop suggested she may be stressed by the change and recommended a tonic containing Bronopol, Copper EDTA, Formaldehyde and silver Proteinate.
<... a very poor idea>
By the next day she was much happier as were we.
Two days later (5 days after fish introduced) we noticed Goldie's tail and 1 or her fins were ragged and disappearing, we then saw Parp nipping at her. We researched on line and many sites said this can happen with a new tank and it should settle down.
<Mmm, no. Most often fish's die from such treatment>
She also appeared to have a white thin thread coming from her side. We spoke to the store the next day who said it may have been that she had fin rot and parp was trying to make her better and to try Phenoxyethanol.
<...>
She improved greatly, the thread dropped off and all was well until the water began to cloud (about day 6). We did 10% water change we had been told to do, using a gravel vac and the next morning the water was very cloudy.
<... ammonia, nitrite?>
My husband went to the store and they recommended bringing in a sample the next day. By the time we got home the store was closed, we could hardly see the fish and they were gasping at the top of the water. Again we turned to the internet and were recommended a 50^% water change with the suggestion it was bacterial bloom. The fish settled down, although the water didn't.
<Cycling...>
Back at the store the next day they tested the water and the test went bright purple - they said we needed to bring down the PH. They said the problem may have been from using two treatments with less than a 7 day gap (as the last store had advised us to do!) They said not to change anything that day as we had changed so much water already, and do a 20% change the next day, then two days later take back another sample.
After the 20% change, the water really cleared and all appeared to be improving - until!!! - the stick/thread like things appeared again, this time out of both of the fish.
<Anchorworms... Lernaea... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/anchorwrmfaqs.htm>
The shop said the water level was much improved, ammonia was up a bit but not vastly (they didn't give me numbers)
<Any amount present is toxic>
and another water change two days later and reduced feeding should sort that.
<Ah, no>
They also tried to contact their suppliers to see if they had any idea what the attachments could be.
<Ditch this store>
We reduced feeding to once every two days on advice but now one is hanging at the top, one sitting on the bottom, or occasionally hanging almost vertically mid tank and we don't know what else to do or where else to go for help. I have tried desperately to get pictures, but am obviously not meant to be an animal photographer. The attachments are about 1 cm long and then at the end are split in two.
The are essentially white, although one or two have become a little darker tonight.
<Good description... these are crustacean parasites...>
They don't appear to move at all but are just like little sticks. Parp has one at the base of 'his' tale but that has now developed a white fluffy area at the bottom of it. PLEASE can you help? I just don't know how to help them.
Thanks for your time
Erica (and more importantly Goldie and Parp)
<Please read where you were referred to above and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above. You have made a few simple though drastic errors... as you will soon realize... the means to possibly fix them will be detailed in the reading. Bob Fenner>

Re: sick orander - stick like threads sticking out of bodies 4/22/08
thank you for your help. Your advice was really useful - feel like we have been trying to be really responsible and get advice, but now find it was bad advice - unfortunately it is the fish that suffer.
<Yes>
Sadly Goldie died yesterday, but she had become very ill. Parp seems to be beginning to recover, so we are crossing our fingers we can get through this bit to get him steady and once again a happy fish. Still concerned over the cloudy water, but following the advice from the links you sent and crossing our fingers.
Thanks again
Erica
<Welcome. BobF>

Goldfish developing lumps in fin and red sores on body - Urgent help needed! -04/11/08
Hi,
Thanks for maintaining this wonderful site, it really has tons of useful info.
<Welcome and sorry for the delay in reply here...>
My two new goldfish have a problem and I am unable to diagnose even after going through the diseases FAQs, could you please help?
<Yes... have looked at your pix and have a good/high confidence re the root cause and cure here>
My tank is 90 gallons and there are 5 fish in it - 2 Orandas (Lionheads I think) which are about 4 inches long (body only), 2 baby Ranchus (2 inches long) and 1 Pleco (5 inches long and I will soon remove it).
<Mmm, I keep Hypostomus... one of the "medium size species" Plecos with my fancy goldfish... not usually a problem in this size/sort of system>
The water is (and has been) clean - 0 NH3, 0 Nitrites, 10ppm Nitrates, pH is 8.2 though (my tap water tested 8.0). Water is aerated constantly and has a filter which pumps water overhead and back through sponges.
Some background - I got the 2 Orandas eight days back and they have been fine so far, eating well and not constipated. One of them (store said it is a she) is a bit plump and spends a lot of time just floating near the filter in a dark corner. Sometimes, she floats a bit lopsided (leaning to one side). On one side, her tail fin seems a bit bent and this makes her swim with a clumsy, wriggly movement (the tail fins don't open up fully at all). I am not sure if she has some swim bladder problem or if the tail fin hurts when she tries to swim but she does seem happy otherwise. The 2 Ranchus were brought in 2 days back and are so far eating and swimming actively with no visible signs of disease.
Today, both of them have developed what seem like whitish lumps inside their tail fins (mostly near the base).

Also, one of them (not the floater) has developed three or four red sores on its body (it looks like a scale has been peeled off here and there exposing the blood behind). There is no worm sticking out of the sore,
<There will be...>
no mucus, no yellow, just red like it was poked with something sharp. The two little Ranchus seem to now be chasing them to try and get at the blood and the lumps (the Orandas don't seem to be harassed too much by this though).
I have attached some photos which show the lump and the sore (marked in white). I can sense that they are going to get worse tomorrow so could you kindly let me know what it could be and how to treat it? I am planning to move them to quarantine now after giving them a 10 min treatment in a 10mg/Litre solution of Potassium Permanganate with an aerator in a bucket.
<Mmm, it's obvious you've been studying... I would not use the KMnO3... too harsh and won't solve the issue here>
Thanks again in advance,
Shankar
<And now (finally!) my input. This is very likely the beginning of "Anchor Worm"... a crustacean parasite complaint... at times common with pond-reared goldfish... Needs really to be treated with an organophosphate... usually Dimilin or DTHP/Masoten/Dylox/Neguvon... and other generic names... Please insert the term "Anchorworm" in your search tool, or the one on WWM. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Goldfish developing lumps in fin and red sores on body - Urgent help needed! 04/14/2008
Dear Bob,
Thanks very much for your reply. You are right, it is indeed turning out to be Anchorworms.
<Ahh! and ouch!!!>
I have tried and removed them whenever I see them dangling out more than 2 mm and have been mostly successful (except a couple of cases where I couldn't get the whole worm out). Dabbing the worm with a swab of cotton soaked in potassium permanganate seemed to help while pulling them out but I cant say for sure. The whole thing seems to be subsiding but, to make sure, I started treating the tank with Paracidol (copper sulfate based medicine).

The bottle says 3 doses alternate days and that it will remove ich also, hopefully I should have a clear tank in a week.
<Again... the use of an organophosphate>
Another thing - the guy at the pet shop told me it is a 360 litre (~ 90 gallon) tank but when I actually measured the dimensions of the water column (minus some allowance for rocks), it looks like I only have 65g!
<Very common to have such a difference in real volume>
So I guess I will have to restrict to just 4 or 5 goldfish:-(
<Good point, call>
Thanks again for the wonderful site, I now read it everyday because it is so informative (and entertaining).
-Shankar
<Thank you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Spots on my Kissing Gourami, likely lernaeids -12/14/07
Hello,
<Stephanie>
I have had a kissing Gourami for a couple of years now but over the last few days it has developed about some spots which I put down to a bacterial infection
<Mmmm>
and so I've been treating with a fungus, Finrot and bacteria treatment. But the spots, which appear to be only on one side of it's body have turned a peachy/orange colour and each seems to have something like a black barb type thing sticking out of it - almost like a splinter.
<Ahh!>
There are approximately 5 of these spots and they are in different places on the body and one near the eye. The fish seems to be well enough at the moment it is eating and behaving as usual.
Do you have any idea what this might be?
<I do... most likely a lernaeid, aka Anchorworm... Please see here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Had you recently added "something live" (new fish, FW food, plants) to this system? The parasite had to have been added some how... See Google Images for the common name as well... Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Many thanks,
Stephanie

Re: Spots on my Kissing Gourami -12/14/07
Bob,
<Steph>
Thanks so much for your response. Thanks for the link and "yuk" it looks like Anchorworm! I bought some new plants about a week ago. So, up go my sleeves!
<Ahh!>
I've pulled the things off with tweezers and now breathe a sigh of relief - so does my Gourami!
<I'll say!>
I've bought a bottle of parasiticide which I'll have to administer tomorrow as I have been treating the fish for a bacterial infection and it says to wait 48 hours before using.
<Good>
Thanks so much for you swift response and the link - much appreciated!
Stephanie
<Welcome my friend. BobF>

Newbie /anchor worms and Camallanus worms, FW 12/12/07
Dear Crew,
First let me apologize in advance for any posting errors. I have never posted anything before. I have read just about everything I could find on your site and the web, and still haven't found a clear answer to my question.
<Welcome>
My eight year old son and I are relative newbies to freshwater aquariums, but we are learning fast. Several months ago, we got a 5 gallon aquarium, with one live dwarf Amazon sword plant. We have a small under gravel filter from our previous 2 gallon tank, a small heater and a corner box filter, air pump (suitable for up to 10 gallon tanks). There is a tiny snail, which I have only seen once. I assume it came with the plant, and I don't know if it is still alive. After a couple of weeks we got 1 fancy guppy. We had him about three weeks, and then got another guppy and an Otocinclus. We did not quarantine (a lesson which I have since learned), I also learned about water testing around this time. Within a couple of days, the new guppy died of fin and tail rot, and the Oto had ich. I treated the tank with MelaFix and malachite green.
<Better to simply elevate temperature here.>
The Oto struggled with ich off and on for several weeks, and eventually died. Throughout all this, the original guppy appeared healthy. As I learned about water testing during this time, we have been at ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 2.5-5, ph 7.6-8.0. now for several weeks.
We waited several more weeks, before attempting to get any more fish, and on 11/24/07 decided to get 2 more Otos to help with the algae.
<Mmm, I would not place Otocinclus in such a small volume, with such a high pH... better to seek out other means of algae control. Posted on WWM>
They are currently quarantined, and so far appear healthy. The day we brought home the new Otos, I discovered a parasite hanging off the side off the guppy. After investigating on line, I am sure it was an anchor worm. I removed the box filter/charcoal and I started to treat with Jungle Parasite Clear, which said it was good for anchor worms
<... but adults, on host fish/es... must need be physically removed...>
and would not harm the plant like Coppersafe. The anchor worm fell off, leaving a gaping wound in the side of the guppy. Despite this, he continued to eat and was active. A few days later, several red worms protruded from his anus, and one from the gaping hole in his side. After more searching on line, I am sure from the photos I have seen on line that he had Camallanus worms.
<Mmm... no... these Nematodes are stark white, round in cross section... Likely what you are seeing are other/new Anchorworms...>
I continued to treat with the Jungle Parasite Clear which contains Praziquantel, Diflubenzuron, Metronidazole, and Acriflavine.
<Mmm... none of these will treat for, kill Lernaeids... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwcrustdisfaqs.htm
and the linked FAQs file above on Organophosphate Use>
This appeared to have no effect on the worms, and the fish has now finally died (whether from the worms or the wound).
So my basic questions are these?
<Likely crustacean... Anchorworms>
What do I treat the tank with to ensure anchor worms (which I know is not a worm) and Camallanus worms (theoretically they have a 30 day life cycle) are gone (since the Jungle Parasite Clear didn't appear to treat the worms)?
<Not worms... just appear worm-like>
What is safe for the plant?
<Please read the above...>
Is the snail an intermediary host?
<Mmm, no>
How long do I need to wait, keeping in mind I have 2 Otos in quarantine, waiting for all the algae in the tank. Do I need to take down the whole set up and sterilize and start over?
<Mmm, possibly the best approach here now>
If so, how?
<See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnaqfaqs.htm>
How do I keep the bacteria going in the tank since there are now no fish in there?
<They will be there>
Thank you in advance for your advice. I have learned much from your site. I wanted to introduce my son to the pleasures of an aquarium, and all he has seen so far is a bunch of parasites and sick fish. I realize we have just a tiny set up, but I had an aquarium when I was growing up, and I wanted him to have the same pleasure it gave me. I'd just like to get the new Otos settled. We know the 1 inch per gallon of water rule, so we know we can only have a few small fish, but we want them to be healthy, happy fish. Thanks again for your help.
Vida
<Thank you for writing so well... Clearly and completely. I want to state, make it known to you that the difficulties you and your animals are suffering are not of your origination... The livestock you have received has been infested, compromised... and not easily cured by anyone's efforts. I would either bleach-wash and start over here, moving the water from the Quarantine along with the Otocinclus... and feed carefully till the system is established. Otherwise, Clout (tm), Fluke Tabs (tm), other DTHP or Dimilin containing pesticide can be added... Do please write back if you have further concerns, issues. Bob Fenner>

Re: newbie /anchor worms and Camallanus worms 12/18/07
Mr. Fenner,
<Vida>
Thank you for your prompt reply. I think I will take every thing down and bleach it out. Is there any way to save the plant?
<Yes... can be peremptorily dipped/bathed in an alum and water solution... See WWM, the Net re>
We like having a live plant as opposed to plastic. Likewise, how does one safely add new live plants, as I realize they can introduce parasites?
<Rare, but yes... most all that is wet can/may>
If we are starting all over, we will probably add another plant or two, and definitely don't want to introduce any new parasites. The Otos in quarantine appear healthy and thriving, and my son would like them in the tank. Here are some photo links, which show the photos why I believe the fish had Camallanus. This looked very different from the anchor worm on its side, and definitely appeared to be multiple red worms in the anus. They would pull in and appear much shorter at some times than at others. The anchor worm did not do this, it was the same until it fell off and left the wound on the side of the fish. My husband, who has a background in biology and a PhD in genetics, also felt that the organisms protruding from the anus were Camallanus and not the same as the anchor worm.
http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/CamallanusTreatment/experience.html
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2897/parasiteen0.jpg
http://www.gaem.it/pubblico/articoli/malattiepesci/Camallanus/camallanus03.jpg

I had tried elevating the temperature of the tank to between 85-90 degrees (normally it is at 76 degrees) and adding a small amount of aquarium salt for the ich, but was conservative with this because of the plant and the oto. The pH of the aquarium was running 7.2-7.6 before treating with the Jungle Parasite Clear. I suspect some component of the medication fizzy tab has increased the pH.
<Possibly...>
Thank you again for your assistance.
Vida
<Thank you for this follow-up. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish lice – 08/02/07
Hi how are you.
<Tolerably well, thank you.>
I had emailed earlier for the goldfish lice.
<Yep.>
It had happened to all my 9 fishes. But then I removed it with my hand and then all of them became fine except 2 which died.
<OK.>
Now after 3 months I again discovered 2 lice on my 2 fish. However I have removed it and now none are seen in the tank. But pls tell me that what more precaution can I take. Any medication. Or what.
<Try and understand how the lice get into the tank, for example, by buying fishes from retailers with a goldfish lice problem.>
Also pls tell me that why these lice happen. Any reason behind it.
<Reason? Evolution. Parasites have evolved to take advantage of host organisms. But why they occur in your tank? Simple: you aren't quarantining your fish. If your fish are isolated from infected fishes, they won't get the parasites. If you dump infected fish from the shop into your aquarium, your fish will get infected.>
I had bought 3 fishes a week before and added in the tank. Is it because of them because among the 2 which got infected one was the new one.
<Likely, yes, assuming you killed off the lice last time round.>
Pls tell me the reason behind it and what precaution should I take
<The usual precautions will work: buy healthy fish from trustworthy retailers. Quarantine new stock, treating for parasites if you suspect they are infected. Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: Goldfish lice – 08/02/07
Thank you for your efforts and advice.
Pls tell me that how can I quarantine the new stock.
Any medicines.
Also the fish vendor from whom I purchased the fishes say that the fishes are always under the medication in his shop.
Pls tell me any medicines or antibiotics so that I can cure them. Also after finding 2 lice what more precaution can I take so that other fishes don't get infected.
Pls help
<Hello Mr Bond. Quarantining is described in most aquarium books, and is simple enough to understand: keep new fish in a *separate* aquarium for a few weeks, long enough for you to observe their health. Six weeks should do the trick. In that time, you should see evidence of fish lice, whitespot, or whatever and be able to treat it safely. After quarantining is over, you move the fish into your display aquarium. All fish retailers will say they quarantine their stock. Can you imagine them admitting otherwise? To be fair, most actually do quarantine their stock to some extent. But the problem is that display tanks in the store mix lots of fish together -- they have to, since the retailer can't place one goldfish per aquarium! So, simply by being placed on display, the fish are exposed to diseases. Medications for treating fish lice depend on what's available in your area. In the UK, it's products such as Interpet #12 Anti Crustacean Parasite and Waterlife Sterazin. In the US, you have things like Mardel CopperSafe and Aquarium Products Fluke-Tabs. Visit your retailer, and see what they have available. Saltwater dips might also work. In this case, add 20-30 grammes of salt per litre of aquarium water in a bucket. Net the fish, and immerse in the bath for 5-20 minutes depending on the size of the fish (bigger fish tolerate dips for longer). Repeat daily, and with luck the lice will drop off. I'm not a vet, so can't comment on antibiotics, but since antibiotics are for bacteria, there's no reason they would work on lice. Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: Goldfish lice – 08/02/07
What are the medications available in India for fish lice. Here all stupid people sell fishes and so they don't know anything. Pls recommend it.
Is there any particular reason why these fish lice happen
<Mr. Bond, some manners please. How about saying "please" or "thank you"? Over here in England we still take these things seriously. Anyway, as for brands of fish lice medication in India, I haven't a clue. The following medications are used in the US, UK, and Europe to treat fish lice, and some may be available in India. For all I know, there may be Indian pharmaceutical companies producing their own brands. A bit of time spent visiting aquarium stores or shopping online may help.
- API General Cure
- Aquarium Products Clout
- Aquarium Products Fluke-Tabs
- Aquarium Products Life Bearer
- Hikari CyroPro
- Mardel CopperSafe
- Seachem Cupramine
- Seachem PolyGuard
- Interpet #12 Anti Crustacean Parasite
- Kusuri Parazoryne
- Waterlife Sterazin
- JBL Gyrodactol
- TetraMedica ContraSpot
You probably want to see if there's an Indian or local fishkeeping club you can join. That's often the best way to make friends among fishkeepers near home, and so learn about the best places to go shopping and what products and traded. As for "why" parasites happen, I think I explained that before. When a healthy fish and a parasitised fish are brought together in one tank, then there's a good chance the parasite will infect the healthy fish. Your job is to prevent that happening. Bob's written a nice intro to the subject, here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm . Hope this helps, Neale>

Anchorworm, using WWM 7/7/05
Hi,
Thank you for creating such an informative website. I learned so much from it. :)
I just plucked an anchor worm off the tail of my goldfish. I could not find information of what to do with the goldfish - should I quarantine
it or release it back into the container pond? At the moment now, it is in a 1 gallon tank. I don't have space in the townhouse to set up a real QT tank. All the other fishes seem healthy.
Thanks,
Lai Hwa
<... go to the homepage of WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/index.html
put in the term "anchor worm" in the Google search tool...
Bob Fenner>

Anchor worm on a molly?
We have a gold dust molly we purchased her with a mate about 6 months ago her mate died about 1 month ago and now she seems to be get fat quite fat under her belly she has a white round opening and it seems to have a well I am not sure what it is it looks like 2 red thin things sticking out it sort of looks like one have of a sword tail maybe I am really not schooled in fish and the fish belong to my 9 year old daughter she wanted fish so my husband them for her we have a 30 gallon tank with 6 fish neons, the molly, and zebras, and a head light tail light with 2 of the cleaning fish one is large and one is small I am worried about the molly my husband says fish lay eggs but from my
research I see that is not correct please help clueless
<Does sound like anchor worm, Lernaea (actually a copepod).... please put this name, term in your search engine, look at pix... and if this is so, consider carefully pulling these adults off the fish (with tweezers)... W/o intermediate hosts (snails) they cannot (likely) reproduce in your system. Bob Fenner>

Parasite in Parrot Gills
Hello
I have lost two parrot fish in the last three months. They all have long red tubular growths coming from the inside of the gills. The gill area has busted open since they got this and is growing out of the gills. The aquarium store told me it was most likely gill flukes and so I treated them repeatedly with no cure. They told me that they were a hybrid fish and if they appeared to be OK them let them go. I did and I lost one parrot 3 months ago and 1 last night. I noticed last week that the red tubular growths had purple tips on them and that the rosy barb in the tank was sticking its head into their gills and eating it. Please help. I've had these fish for over three years and I am very attached. The aquarium seems to think they may be anchor worms. There are two angel fish, a Pleco and a rosy barb in the tank and they do not have these growths.
Kathleen
< To get rid of either gill flukes or anchor worm I would recommend Fluke-Tabs. If your local store does not carry them then you can order them online at DrsFosterSmith.com.-Chuck>

Anchor Worms
Hi,
I have a 90x37x32 tank with various livebearers in. By the way I have 10 tanks of various sizes. I recently purchased a couple of platies and 4 Siamese fighter females and 1 male with about 4 new plants. (Not from a reputable dealer!! - mistake no 1). The tank has been running for about 4 months now.
In the past 3 weeks my male Siamese fighter and 3 females had anchor worms (worm with a v tail) which I have treated successfully with Interpet No13. I treat the fish in a hospital tank. I purchased 4 more females of which two acquired the worm again. They are undergoing treatment.

My question is how do I cure the tank without damaging the plants which by the way are stunning. I do realize that I will have to strip the tank which is no problem. My plants are my concern.
<The plants should be fine if the product mentioned is either of these organophosphates. If it is something else, please write back, Bob Fenner>
I trust to hear from you soon.
Kind Regards,
GRAHAM LIGHT
UITENHAGE
SOUTH AFRICA

Featured Sponsors:

Amazon Honor System