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FAQs on Freshwater Algae & Their Control
2 Related Articles: Algae
Control in Freshwater Aquariums by
Bob Fenner, Dealing
With Algae in Freshwater Aquaria by Neale Monks,
(some) Algae
(in moderation) Can Be Your Friend, ppt presentation, Part 1,
Part 2, Part 3,
Part 4, Part 5,
Part 6, by Bob Fenner, Algae
Eaters, Otocinclus, Loricariids, Siamese
Algae Eaters/Crossocheilus,
Related FAQs: Freshwater Algae 1,
Algae Control In Aquarium
Gardens 1, &
Freshwater Algae
Identification, FW Blue-Green Algae,
FW Algicides,
Algae Eaters, Aquarium Maintenance, Freshwater
Aquarium Water Quality, Treating Tap Water for
Aquarium Use, pH, Alkalinity, Acidity,
Freshwater Algae Control, Algae Control,
Foods, Feeding, Aquatic Nutrition, Disease, |
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Algae, FW, prob., reading 11/15/09
Hello,
<Hello Brittney,>
I have an algae problem, but I'm not sure what kinds and how to fix it.
<Do start by reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_3/fwalgae.html
In general, algae isn't a problem and more a symptom. Algae thrives
under specific situations: poor water circulation, overstocking,
infrequent water changes, direct sunlight, lack of fast-growing plants.
Almost always, by reviewing each of these and making the necessary
corrections will prevent algae problems. You can then physically remove
whatever algae is in the tank. Adding a few algae eaters (such as Nerite
snails) can clean up minor spots of algae, but only if the underlying
conditions are preventing major algae problems from developing in the
first place. A very common mistake is to think adding a big algae eater
like a Plec will fix things: it most
certainly will not!>
One kind that I've noticed is white. It stands up-right on decorations,
plants, and rocks and has little fingers at the end.
<Now, if this is white, it surely isn't algae, By definition, algae are
coloured by the photosynthetic pigments in their cells. White threads or
tufts are going to bacteria and/or fungi. These only develop in really
dirty tanks that are grossly overstocked and note getting enough
filtration or water changes. The exception here would be if you'd added
some uncured bogwood, as this will sometimes sprout fungi as it cures
underwater.>
The other kind is everywhere. It's a brown color, and grows pretty
quickly.
<If we're talking about brown slime on the glass and solid objects,
these are diatoms. They're most common in tanks with poor lighting and
unstable water conditions. In healthy tanks they tend to cause minimal
problems, and a combination of fast-growing plants and a few
algae-eating snails should slow their growth down dramatically. In my
tanks, I clean the front glass maybe once every 3-4 months!>
What kinds of algae are these, and how can I fix it?
<Do see the linked article above. Algae problems aren't so much "fixed"
as "prevented", and for that bright lights and fast-growing plants are
always part of the package. Floating Indian Fern is a good choice since
it is completely undemanding in terms of substrate and water chemistry.
It needs upwards of 1.5 watts per gallon to grow quickly, but once
established, is a first-rate algae beater. Maintaining sensible stocking
levels and offering regular water changes are also very important. The
addition of algae-eating snails, shrimps, or possibly fish may be
helpful, but by themselves these are rarely the instant cures retailers
suggest. Indeed, if you think about it for a moment this makes sense:
since animals are the things producing the nitrate and phosphate
fertiliser algae consumes, adding any more animals, even algae-eating
ones, will only speed up the rate at which algae can grow. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: algae 11/16/09
Dear Neale,
<Hello Brittney,>
I wrote in about an algae problem, and after reading I'm confused why I
have one.
<Oh?>
I have a 130 gallon tank stocked with 3 mollies, 4 large tetras, 7
Neons, about 8 guppies, 5 platys, 6 rainbows, 10 ghost shrimp, and
around 40-50 new fry (which I plan on giving away/selling). I feed them
flakes and supplement 2-4 times per week with beef heart, algae flakes,
and dried bloodworms.
<All sounds dandy.>
I've had the tank set up since mid July, and fish since mid September.
I've done 25% changes twice and with the most recent change (being about
one week ago) I vacuumed the gravel.
<Good.>
I have a canister filter rated for an 150 gallon tank.
<Often manufacturers are optimistic on the tank rating -- think about
how car manufacturers describe miles/gallon in terms of fuel
consumption, or cereal producers how many servings per box. I prefer an
objective measurement, turnover. For small community fish, you want a
filter rated with a turnover four times the volume of the tank, i.e., in
your case 4 x 130 = 520 gallons/hour.>
It has about four growing plants in it and two large aquarium lights. In
addition to the live plants, I also have a 2 large and 2 small fake
floating plants.
<Live floating plants are by far the best algae-beaters. Can't stress
this point too strongly. Bob has written about his time in Japan working
in a tropical fish shop, where custom was to place a piece of Indian
Fern in each bag of aquarium fish. Since keeping the plant myself, I've
learned why Bob is so enthusiastic about the species: it grows so fast
it beats algae; it's to crop, so you can use it to physically remove
nitrogen and phosphate; it's a perfect hiding place for female
livebearers and their fry; and it's eaten by herbivorous fish such as
Goldfish, Severums and Ameca splendens, making it an ideal "holiday
food" as well as dietary supplement. I'd consider a clump of Indian Fern
almost as essential as the heater or filter. Great thing about it is its
cheap, too!>
I have a heater rated for an 150 gallon tank set at 79F.
<Little on the warm side for Neons and Platies.>
I also have an air pump rated for an 150 gallon tank that has two hoses
going into a long bar that creates a bubble wall.
<Usefulness of these often misunderstood; while they add little/no
oxygen to the system, they do help in terms of water circulation. But
that said, these will drive off CO2, and that can be problematic in
tanks with plants (underwater plants, rather than floating plants, which
don't care). So there's a balance to be struck here.>
The room it's in has large windows with no shades, so it gets indirect
sunlight all day as well.
<Good.>
I'm trying to think of everything, so that I can improve whatever is
needed.
<How fast do your plants grow? Unless you're cropping back plants every
week or two, your plants won't be combating algae. That's the real
"secret" such as it is. No-one really knows why fast-growing plants deal
with algae so effectively, but they do, and it's remarkable. I have a
pretty generously 180-litre system with carnivorous fish and a large
Panaque catfish, but hardly any algae in it thanks to a huge clump of
Amazon Frogbit and Indian Fern. The only algae of any kind are diatoms
on the glass, but these grow so slowly I scrape them off maybe once
every few months. Yes, a Garra helps trim them back to a degree, but the
bottom line is that fast-growing plants will "balance" the ecosystem in
most tanks very, very effectively.>
When I set it up and for the first water change I added bacteria from a
bottle that I bought at the LFS.
<Usually a waste of money.>
I also have a large rock that was in the tank when I bought it. It
appears to have been meant for an aquarium, but I can't guarantee that.
I did wash it, and the other three decorations I bought, before putting
them into the tank. When I fill it I use the outdoor hose, but I always
add a dechlorinator. I do put the hose into the tank a bit, I'm not sure
if this is bad. When I set it up I added aquarium salt, but have since
stopped since I read that it is basically useless.
<Indeed.>
This brings me to a question. Would be safe to add a bit of marine salt
with the aquarium salt still in there?
<You can substitute marine salt mix for aquarium salt should you need
to, and the two types won't "react" in a bad way with each other. But
having said that, why? Most of your fish will resent the addition of
salt, and it certainly won't fix algae problems. When using salt for
therapy, e.g., for treating Ick, you want to use aquarium salt, not
marine salt mix, because marine salt mix will alter pH and hardness,
which you don't want.>
I read the article on algae before asking my first question, but it
seemed to refer to something I don't have.
<Oh?>
That's why I asked. I know it must be annoying having to answer
questions that are already answered on your site, but after searching
for an hour trying to find the type of gunk in my tank, I couldn't find
anything.
<I see.>
I've been looking around for Indian Fern, but can't seem to find any
locally. Does it go by a different name ever?
<It's Latin name is Ceratopteris thalictroides. Any half-decent online
plant retailer should stock it.>
I'm also planning on getting some kind of algae scrubbing wand, so that
I can scrub the sides.
<OK. To be honest, I use plastic pan scourers, but whether they're 100%
safe I cannot say.>
I don't have anything meant specifically for circulation in my tank,
could this be a problem?
<Not if the filter is sufficiently large. Some filters with the inlet
and outlet at the same place (e.g., as is the case with internal
canister filters and hang-on-the-back filters) may not have the "push"
to circulate water all the way to the end of the tank. External
canisters are better because you have the inlet at one end and the
outlet (the spray bar) at the other end. But if your filter isn't like
that, then arranging a big airstone or installing a powerhead at the end
far away from the filter may be helpful.>
If it would help at all to send you photos I'd be more than happy to. I
may sound extremely ignorant, but I don't feel that I should be having
these problems as I tend to my tank daily..
<I agree.>
However, there is obviously something I'm doing wrong. Please help, I
would feel terrible if this starts to affect my fish!
<Algae in itself isn't a disaster, but it can be a sign of underlying
issues, so do review what's been said above. Feel free to write back and
discuss further. Cheers, Neale.>
FW algae problem 11/13/09
Dear all,
<Hello,>
I have a tropical fish tank with a capacity of 150 liters. The number of
fish in my aquarium is below thirty (2 Corydoras, 2 angelfish, 3 Danio,
1 rosy barb, 6 mollies, 2 gold marble bristlenose catfish, 5 three spot
Gourami, 4 black tetras and 3 Siamese algae eaters).
<Quite a busy tank there, and some of your livestock choices are
questionable. But I'm sure a fun aquarium to watch and play with.>
The lighting is 2 x 18W T8 (Sylvania Daylight Star + Sylvania Gro-Lux)
which are on for 8 hours a day.
<Gro-Lux tubes tend to be of limited value when used with aquaria. Once
popular, they are now very largely obsolete, even though they make the
fish look pretty. I'd recommend just two warm white or bluish-white
tubes. These penetrate the water better than the pink light from the
Gro-Lux. You probably also need to leave the lights on for longer; 10
hours is about right.>
I feed the fish twice a day, a little bit in the morning and little bit
in the evening. The filtering is with a canister filter, capacity 1100
liters / hour, the temperature is around 26 C. I change 10-15% of the
water weekly and clean the filter monthly. The problem I am currently
experiencing is a type of algae that has managed to cover all my plants,
especially the Anubias.
<Anubias is an "algae magnet"! One problem is it is meant to grow in the
shade, and if it isn't, it gets smothered. There are different types of
algae. Have a read of my article here, and see which kind of algae you
are dealing with.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_3/fwalgae.html
The best general solution is to [a] provide strong light; [b] add some
fast growing plants, such as floating Indian Fern; [c] add some Nerite
snails and Cherry Shrimps; and [d] check there is good water current
along the bottom of the tank.>
Please take a look at some pictures I took recently. Can you help me?
Sanjin
<Cheers, Neale.>
FW Algae control, Feeding and General Questions. 8/6/2009
Hello,
<Hi Jamie.>
We have a new 26-gallon tank, about two months old that contains several
fish. They are all very small fish and include:
4 Cory Catfish
6 Pearl Danios
4 Guppies
3 Rasboras (with black triangle on body)
All fish appear to be very happy and water readings have been great. We
now have brown algae growing in various places in our tank. All over the
plants (fake), filter, decorations, etc. Upon doing some research
on-line we have found several recommendations to increase oxygen level,
increase light or amount of time light is on, reduce food (probably
overfeeding) & possibly add a Pleco to the tank.
<I agree with the first four, disagree on the Pleco.>
My questions are.
1. How do you increase oxygen level safely in the tank? Would adding a
bubble bar help?
<Not as much as setting your filter to disrupt the surface of the
water..>
2. I know I am probably overfeeding in getting used to the number of
fish? How often should I feed and how much?
<Once a day is fine, and feed no more than can be consumed in 2 minutes
or less.>
3. What about adding a Pleco. Are they compatible with the other fish in
the tank? I know I was reading they are very territorial and to only
have one per tank unless you add two at the same time.
4. How large to the Plecos get? Our largest fish is only about an inch
and a half long. Would this be a problem?
<A Pleco will get too big for this tank. Depending on the species, up to
18 inches. (45cm)>
Thank you for all your help and for responding to peoples questions like
this. I look forward to hearing from you soon.
<You don't mention your water testing results (ammonia, nitrite, and
nitrate) You likely have an excess of nutrients in the tank. Doing 10 -
15% per week water changes, coupled with reducing the amount of food fed
should go a long way in reducing the algae.>
<Have a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmaint.htm
and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwh2oquality.htm >
Jamie
<MikeV>
Fresh water aquarium, Algae issues
I have a fresh water aquarium that I set up a couple of months ago.
I do my regular 1/4 water changes once a week and I can't keep my aquarium from
turning green.
<Oh? Quite common for aquaria to experience algal bloom within
the first few weeks. Usually settles down.>
I was given the aquarium by a
friend and he used it as a salt water aquarium. It is a 75 gallon tank. I
thought it might be the lights so I removed the blue lights and left the white
ones. I tried replacing all the water twice and it still turns green.
<How
much light is there? If there is light but no plants, then algae will prosper.
The more light, the faster the algae grow. Marine aquaria tend to have very
strong lights because corals need a lot of light. Unless you have a lot of
fast-growing plants, particularly floating plants, then algae can become a real
problem if the same lights are used on a freshwater tank.
Assuming you have
"strong" lights (by which I mean upwards of 2 watts per gallon) I'd be sure and
stock the tank with lots of fast-growing plants.
Some good choices would be
Hygrophila polysperma, Cabomba, Vallisneria, and as floating plants, either
Indian Fern or the Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum). These will "use up"
the light and inhibit algal blooms. It will take a few weeks for the rooted
plants to become established, but floating plants usually settle in at once.>
I am using the correct amount of water conditioner and salt.
<Salt? In a
freshwater tank? Unless you're keeping brackish water fish, there's no need to
add salt, and good reasons not to.>
I test the water myself and take a sample
to the pet store also for testing and its always perfect. what can I do?
<Cheers, Neale.>
FW green thread algae question... red algae... Cyano?
12/5/08
Crew, As always, thank you for any knowledge you can impart
herein. I have a green thread algae problem.
I have a 120g FW setup.
Substrate is about 3" thick of a mix of equal parts pond soil (Schultz's), sand
and eco-complete. Some gravel on top of that. A lot of Mopani wood. Plants
include crypts, java fern, wisteria, water sprite, Anubias and swords. lighting
is 6x54w t5 HO, 6500k bulbs, 3" from water surface, individual reflectors, 10
hours/day.
Filtration is 2 overflow boxes to 1 1/2" drains, down into a 40g
sump, which is about half full. The bottom of the drain pipes are always below
the water surface. Those flow into 2 drain socks, which I change about every 3-4
days. They are pretty brown when I pull them, but not too clogged (I never got
water pouring over the top of the socks). I run a DIY 'tube' off a rio pump that
is rated at 400gph no head. The tube is 4" in diameter, and roughly a foot long,
filled with biomedia and some carbon.
The tube has a screen pump side, then
some poly floss to help get small particulates. I check the bio media every
couple of weeks in there, but end up having to rinse out only every few
months...the filter socks catch just about everything. The floss catches what
little the filter socks don't. The sump also has a couple of heaters and
thermometers, as well as a Quiet One 4000 return pump. By my calculations using
the head less calculator on reefcentral.com, it is pumping about 600 gph (or
roughly 5 times the water volume when calculating about 100 in the main tank and
20 in the sump). The returns are split left and right, with wide nozzles,
pointing down away from the surface (trying to minimize surface disturbance and
CO2 loss). I have no CO2 supplement currently, although I am trying to figure
out a way to do it DIY...which isn't easy for a 120g tank (can't fit a 5g bucket
with water, sugar and yeast under my tank!!! :) ) As off 3 weeks ago,
inhabitants were as follows:
6 signifer rainbows, 1 to 1 1/2"
7 harlequin
Rasboras, 1"
6 turquoise rainbows, 1 1/2 to 2"
6 Irian Jaya rainbows, 1
1/2 to 2"
5 Congo tetras, 2"
2 roseline barbs, 2"
2 golden nugget Plecos, 4" and 3"
1 queen arabesque Pleco, 2"
1 king tiger
Pleco, 3"
1 spotted prawn, 5" body (but surprisingly mellow and
non-confrontational)
3 albino Corys
3 sterbae Corys
1 tinanti cichlid
(also very mellow, not overtly territorial)
a few mystery snails and some
unidentified hitchhiker snails (brown shells,
get about 3/4" in diameter)
I know - a lot of stocking, but it is a big, deep and tall tank.
I then
pulled the Rasboras and signifer rainbows out - didn't like the look. Too
'busy.' I was right - the tank looked a lot better after pulling them out. At
the same time, I also changed my feeding routine from every day to 3-4x per
week. I feed mostly black worms, with some flake and blood worms mixed in.
Whatever I feed is consumed within 1 minute. I also put some cucumber and
zucchini in there from time to time, and it looks like the Plecos munch on it. I
throw some wafers in the tank at night, as well as some Spirulina flakes.
I
also hooked up a Fluval 405 canister filter with the filter pads, some filter
floss, and some more biomedia. I did this to try and polish the water (however,
it didn't really make a difference). Also put in 4 led moonlights.
All fish
are growing very well and are well behaved. The plants are doing okay - green,
but not growing much, with the exception of the wisteria, which is doing well. I
don't know what the limiting factor(s) is/are...could be ammonia (biomedia too
productive), nitrate or CO2. With those plants, I don't think that 330w of t5 HO
lighting is an issue.
Tank is about 7 months old.
Water parameters have
been constant for many months - 7.5-7.6ph, 77-80*F, 55-70alk, 0 ammonia, 0
nitrite, and less than 5 nitrates. Even when I went on vacation and didn't
change any water for 2 weeks, the nitrates still were about 5ppm. Phosphates are
present, between 1 and 4ppm (the API drop test isn't the best quality). TDS, if
it matters, is usually in the 200-250 range. Water changes are typically every
week, somewhere between 30-40%. I use a mix of RO/tap to get the parameters I am
looking for.
Problem - I've always had a trace of green hair/thread algae,
but it has just been that - a trace. nothing every more than 1/2" long, and that
was rare. I don't physical remove..something gets it (snails would be my guess).
But after pulling the fish from the tank, changing the feeding routine as well
as putting in the Fluval, it is getting much worse. It is now attaching to the
glass with little black dots, and it is starting to grow rather long, and is
very pronounced.
Any thoughts? Less food and less fish should mean less
waste, which means less ammonia, less phosphate and less nitrates, right? My
tests don't show any significant changes. Could it be the additional flow with
the Fluval?
The moonlights? The substrate (yeah, I know, that is a lot of
substrate)?
I've always been one to let the tank adjust to changes, and it
usually works out just fine. Does anything stand out to you?
thanks
Paul
<Paul, the short answer is you have red algae (the long threads) and these are
very difficult to shift once mature. As you understand, few fish eat mature red
algae threads, at least, not the sorts of fish you'd want to keep in an
aquarium! Moreover, unless you remove the infected leaves, there's no manual way
to reduce red algae problems. Red algae is most common in tanks that are heavily
stocked and with relatively high levels of nitrate/phosphate. The "antidote" is
bright light and lots of fast-growing plants. You'll have to physically remove
the existing red algae, but once the fast-growing plants are established (which
will take a few weeks) they will have an allelopathic effect, minimising red
algae growth. Certain fish will nibble on new growths, particularly things like
Crossocheilus siamensis and Jordanella floridae. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: FW green thread algae question 12/5/08
Is 330
watts of t5 at 6500k enough light? and what plants would be best, considering I
don't use co2 supplement. something like Anacharis? more wisteria? the floating
plants don't do so great because of the overflows.
maybe some duckweed?
thanks
Paul
<Paul, do please check you use
capital letters where required! One of the (few) house rules! As for lighting,
"strong" lighting is somewhere around 2.5 to 4 watts per gallon, but this does
depend on various factors such as the depth of the tank. If your tank is much
over 60 cm/24 inches in depth, you need to be generous with the lighting because
only a fraction will reach the bottom of the tank where the plants are. In any
case, while you can estimate how much light you'll need up to a point
(typically, 4 tubes running the full length of the hood works well with
light-hungry plants) -- eventually it all comes down to trial and error! It's
usually best to over-estimate the light requirement and then cut out some light
with floating plants. As for the plants that have the best allelopathic effect,
almost anything that grows fast should do the trick. Hygrophila, Cabomba,
Egeria, Ceratophyllum, Ceratopteris thalictroides and so on all work well.
Funnily enough, under some conditions Vallisneria seems to be a hair
algae-magnet, at least in my experience. Generally what doesn't work is anything
slow growing: Crypts, Java moss, Java fern, Anubias, etc. Floating plants can be
great, but Duckweed does need regular culling otherwise it does take over. (I
just spent an hour this morning doing precisely this; while Duckweed is great
for optimising water quality, and provides lots of cover for my baby halfbeaks,
it needs to be managed.) Limnobium might be a better, easier to manage
alternative, and a great choice for moderating over-bright light for those
plants (such as Anubias) that aren't wild about such things. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: FW green thread algae question 12/5/08
My
apologies about the 'caps.' I will endeavor to meet the house rules.
:)
<Cool.>
With lighting, I have 6 T5 HO tubes, and with the depth of substrate
and gravel, the bottom is about 20" from the surface. I will hope that is enough
(adding more will be difficult, both with space and money).
<I'd have thought
this amount of light would be ample. Indeed, you may have algae problems
precisely because there's lots of light but nothing using it up.>
I will try
some of the plants you have listed, particularly the Limnobium.
Cheers.
Paul
<If you can pop over to Berkhamsted, you can have some of my Limnobium!
It's doing rather well! Otherwise, a good value floating plant. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: FW green thread algae question 12/5/08
Ah, and
a question I forgot to ask - are there any plants that I can use for nutrient
export that do not require lighting or very minimal lighting?
<None. The
point to nutrient export is it's all about turning nitrate into protein. The
more a plant grows, the more protein it makes. Given the rate at which fish pump
out ammonia, only fast-growing plants will have any impact. It's the same reason
why mangroves don't substantially reduce nitrate in marine tanks: they're
growing too slowly.>
I have the sump beneath, and could use it for that
purpose (although I'd prefer not to).
Paul
<Using "vegetable filters"
external to the main aquarium can work extremely well, but it's an approach that
works better in the lab than the home. See for example the book 'Dynamic
Aquaria' for discussions thereof. Outdoors,
things become much easier, and
unfiltered ponds work precisely because the plants and algae absorb the ammonia
before it can poison the fish. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: FW green thread algae question 12/5/08
"<If you
can pop over to Berkhamsted, you can have some of my Limnobium!
It's doing
rather well! Otherwise, a good value floating plant. Cheers,
Neale.>"
At
this time of year, I am staying in San Diego and avoiding anything north!
<<RMF too... it's ding dang cold, even in Mira Mesa!>>
Thanks again for the
help. Your explanation of needing fast growing plants makes sense...something
needs to get the ammonia and nitrate out of the water fast, and the plants I
have (Anubias, java fern, swords) just can use it fast enough. With a plant that
could use it faster, it will compete with the algae, and hopefully starve the
algae out.
<It's a trifle more complex than this, with fast-growing plants
actually producing chemicals that kill algae, and thereby keep their leaves
clean in habitats where they'd otherwise be smothered by algae. If you think
about
it: how do plants keep themselves algae-free in the wild?>
I've had
duckweed in the past and don't mind the pruning. With a tank that size and with
a moderately heavy fish load, I am cleaning the glass a few times a week and
changing water once a week. Pruning out duckweed isn't a big deal. Cheap plant,
delicate looking (rather pretty I dare say) and fast grower...good combination.
<I like Duckweed too; and as a nitrate remover it's unbelievably good. But in
some tanks it can cause problems. That said, it is pretty, and as one of the two
or three smallest flowering plants known to science, a definite curiosity as
well. Like cockroaches, starlings and rats, we often ignore the sheer brilliance
of organisms we consider "pests" without appreciating just how well they work.>
Paul
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: FW green thread algae question 12/5/08
<It's a
trifle more complex than this, with fast-growing plants actually producing
chemicals that kill algae, and thereby keep their leaves clean in habitats where
they'd otherwise be smothered by algae. If you think about it: how do plants
keep themselves algae-free in the wild?>
Are you referring to Alleochemicals?
<Yes indeed!>
By the way, have you ever read Walstad's book on planted
aquaria?
Interesting read.
<Nope; aware of it, just never read it. I'm a
low-tech planted aquarium guy: I buy a bunch of plants, throw them in, and pull
out whatever doesn't do well. Mostly, my herbivorous catfish puts a limit on how
fancy my planted tank can be!>
Paul
<Cheers, Neale.>
HELP!! FW? Algae... no data of use or reading 9/24/08
Hi, my aquarium has been turning a really dark dark green (you can't see
ANYTHING if you look across from it). It turns that green in only 2 days...I
changed the entire water and it lasted for 5 days at he most but then it turned
green again. The fish don't seem to mind at all but I do. I've seen little
insects (like fleas) around the inside glass of the aquarium (they don't go in
the water). Pleas help!!
<Help yourself. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Fish tank
inquiry, algae 9/1/08
Dear Crew,
<Hello,>
A part of the wall in my fish tank is covered
with little brown and sort of green dots. Is it algae or something else.
<Likely algae; if moving about, then possibly planarians. In either case
harmless, though planarians thrive best in dirty tanks where there's stuff
for them to eat.>
Also, the tips and leaves on some of my artificial
plants have brown stuff smeared on them. The same brown stuff is on some
areas of my gravel bed as well. Is it just algae or dirty stuff?
<Algae.>
I do water changes often but they still remain. After I was the brown stuff
off it comes back even with lots of water changes.
Thanks
<Golden-brown, slimy algae is typically diatoms, and these are a particular
pest in tanks with poor lighting and variable water quality. Adding
additional lights so that you can install fast-growing plants usually deals
with diatoms pretty briskly, and most snails, but especially Nerites, will
eat them. Red algae (despite the name) looks dirty green and usually forms
tufts, often on the edges of leaves. Again, this implies poor lighting
because the plants can't grow fast enough to hold back the algae. High
nitrate and phosphate tend to favour red algae. Finally, there's blue-green
algae (and again, despite the name) can appear in a variety of colours. It's
very slimy and has a nasty musty smell when removed from the water. This is
VERY strongly associated with tanks that have poor water quality (high
nitrate/phosphate) and not enough water flow. A little algae is no problem,
but if algae become a pest, covering the gravel and plants, then you need to
figure out what's favouring them, and act accordingly. A photo of your
mystery brown spots will help, as will data on the tank, especially size,
filtration, water quality, and lighting. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fish tank inquiry, algae
-09/02/08
I just wiped away the brown spots today when I was cleaning the tank, so I
am unable to supply a photo. Sorry. My tank is 26 gallons bowfront, with a
fluorescent light 15 watts, Aqueon 30 power filter, and the Ph is slightly
acidic. The temperature is 78 degrees F, and the ammonia/nitrate/nitrite
levels are stable. It uses plastic plants so the algae won't be taken away
unless I wipe it away. Will anything other than snails eat it?
<If the
algae can be cleared away with a wipe, best do that then. In all honesty,
it'll work better and more cheaply. Adding algae-eating fish increases the
nitrate and phosphate, speeding up the rate at which algae grow. If you're
unlucky, you'll end up with real nuisance algae like blue-green algae that
isn't easy to shift. Nerite snails are great for lightweight algae removal
and have a low impact on water quality. Adding floating plants often helps
by cutting down the light and removing nutrients from the water. But your
tank has so little light -- barely half a watt per gallon -- I don't think
even hardy species like Indian Fern will grow. The dim light is certainly
going to work in the favour of diatoms rather than "pretty" algae like green
algae. Diatoms aren't as fussy about light intensity as other types of
algae. In short, there's really no easy solution here beyond simple
application of a sponge to the glass once a week! Cheers, Neale.>
Algae... where is it? FW
7/22/08
Hi,
I have three guppies in a 20 gallon tank. I would like to add a couple more.
However, I have a question. I have no algae in my tank. I was told this
means I have an unhealthy tank.
<Wouldn't worry about it. You almost certainly do have some, just not much,
and the Guppies will eat much of it anyway.>
Why would no algae form? I don't know if any of this makes a difference, but
I do turn the light on for them during the day and they are in a room that
gets natural light through a door with a window that faces the side of the
tank and indirectly through windows.
Thanks.
<All sounds fine. If the water quality and water chemistry are good, I'd not
worry too much about the lack of algae. Enjoy your tank. Cheers, Neale.>
Nuts!!! Algae *ell in freshwater, planted 75g. tank!!! reading
6/26/08
...I don't really expect an answer BUT after reading your info. on WWM,
I still cannot find an answer as to why algae is running amuck in my barely
2 month old freshwater planted tank? I have about 20 Otos which when bought,
was assured they would take care of the problem; NOT.
<Depends... on the type/s of algae... many are unpalatable, some even toxic>
...I have had freshwater and saltwater tanks for years and have never had
the mess I have with this new tank. OMG!! Why did I think this was going to
be easy?
<You tell me>
...I am a 61yr, still working 40 hr week,
<Yikes... hope you enjoy the work>
female and want to address this problem and ASAP would be nice. Im getting
ready to yank out the plants, give the fishes away, remove the substrate and
send this 75g nightmare to tank heaven; otherwise known as the garage.
PLEASE, can you help or advise or pray or something?
D.L. Sanders
--...it's belief that gets us there... Dodie
<... Need info re set-up, water quality tests... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/AquariumGardenSubWebIndex.html
scroll down to "Algae Matters". Bob Fenner>
Green water, lights out, chemical savior?
FW 6/19/08
Hi again crew,
<Hello>
I know there are tons of articles on "green water" algae blooms on your
site, but can't seem to find the specific advice I'm looking for...
<Ok>
My tank is a 55g FW, new setup, lightly planted so far. Lighting is 260W of
CF, and I'm using CO2. Cycling was done with the aid of Bio-Spira and a couple
of hardy paradise fish. Ammonia, NO2, NO3 are all 0, and except for a brief and
barely noticeable "spike" in NO2 they've been reading 0 all along thanks to the
Bio-Spira. GH is around 5 dGH. KH maybe a bit high at 5 dKH? pH at 6.8 - 6.9
depending on if the lights are off or on.
<Sounds nice.>
I'm pretty sure know what caused the bloom-- I cleverly dosed the tank with
nitrogen fertilizer, thinking that since I had very few fish to produce
nitrates, my plants would appreciate some vittles. I used half the recommended
dosage, but 2-3 days later I had 55 gallons of pea soup. Tank was just too
sparsely planted to use up the nitrogen, I guess.
<Probably>
I tried turning off the lights for 1 whole day, which actually cleared up
the water amazingly well. But after 2 days with the lights back on, the bloom
was back with a vengeance.
<Expected>
So, my questions are:
1. Will keeping the light off for 2 days straight be likely to deal a more
long-lasting blow to the algae?
<nope, need some water changes to remove the excess nutrients.>
2. Will 48 hours of darkness significantly harm my plants-- a variety,
including some crypts.
<Doubtful>
3. Would it be as effective (and kinder to the plants) to have the lights on
for a short part of the day -- if so how many hours would you recommend?
<I would leave as is, light is not what is fueling the bloom.>
4. I thought read something in your FAQs about using potassium permanganate,
but is that safe for fish (at a dose that will put a dent in the algae)?
<I would skip it, nutrient control is the answer here, water changes will
help greatly.>
Thanks!
<Welcome>
-Dave
<Chris>
Algae, wood use, using WWM – 06/02/08
HI Crew, My question is that I have a 125 gal. fresh water tank. I have
noticed light and dark green spots all over the gravel. my temp is 81 deg. soft
water ph 6.5 .Does this pose a threat or do I need to get it treated. and how.
can you use any driftwood for fish tank. Thanks For Al l You Do. Darby Woody.
Morganton NC.
<...? Please see WWM re Freshwater Algae, Drift/wood use. Your answers and more
are already posted. http://wetwebmedia.com/
Bob Fenner>
Need FW Algae advice
5/30/08
Hi Bob and Sabrina and Crew, long time no talk. Hope all is
well.
<Gage, howzit?>
I have a problem with brown diatom algae in my Goldfish tank. I
cannot shake it and am looking for advice. I suspect the problem is
related
to my lighting, either too much or too little. Here are the facts:
No3= ~10ppm
No2= 0ppm
GH= ~150ppm
KH= ~300ppm
PH= 7.8
Ammonia= 0
Silicate in tank= between .03 and .1 ppm
Silicate in source water= between .5 -1ppm
<Mmmm>
The tests (besides ammonia and Silicate) were taken with a dip
strip.
I am too cheap to buy a nice kit because it is rare that I test my
water.
The tank is a 36gal corner which houses 3 goldfish that are a little
smaller than golf balls. It is about 18" from the sand to the surface
of the water. The light is a Coralife 24" T5 plant light which
contains 1 6700k bulb and 1 "color max" full spectrum bulb, both are
14watts. The bulbs are about 5 months old and are lit on a timer for
8 hours a day. I am using an Eheim Pro canister filter filled with
bio media, a couple filter pads and some carbon. The carbon runs for
about 3 weeks then gets tossed. I have 4 Anubias, 4 Java fern, one
fast growing plant whose name I do not recall, a bunch of giant
duckweed floating around and some elodea for the fish to munch during
the day. I feed 10 pellets of New Life Spectrum goldfish pellet once
a day. I do weekly water changes of 40%ish and de-chlorinate with
Prime. I add nothing to my tap water besides Prime.
<I'd skip this altogether. I don't use any dechloraminator with my
goldfish under similar cond.s>
I have never had algae that does not go away eventually but I just
cannot get rid of this stuff, it covers my rocks, plant leaves, and
glass. The tank has been running for about 5 months.
I think I have included everything except for the color of my fish.
Let me know what you think.
Best regards,
Gage
<Mmm, well... you could get more "serious" re chemical filtration...
perhaps try to make something like soluble phosphate more limiting...
and/or use a higher percentage of RO or other filtered water... or add
yet some more competing green plant/s, like (my fave) Ceratopteris...
These are about all that I would consider. You might try writing Sab
directly as well (she doesn't frequent the WWM specifically, but
nowadays runs our new bb). Good to hear from you! Bob Fenner>
Re: Need FW Algae advice 05/30/08
Thanks Bob I will try some or all of the suggestions. no dechloraminator?
Doesn't that cause dead fish?
<Mmm, no... or not necessarily. IF there is "enough" other material for the
chlorine/chloramine and its derivatives to interact with, there is actually
little cause for concern. In fact, in years past, "Chloramine T" was a fish
remedy! Bob Fenner> |
Black coloured algae in tank -05/15/08
Hi I have a 3Ft tank with African Cichlids in it. My water has always looked
great... last week my Electric yellow died for no apparent reason and the same
day I noticed lots of fry in the tank. Did she die during childbirth?
<Unlikely. Perhaps she starved to death, since they can't eat while
mouthbrooding, which is why you *must* isolate the females for several weeks
(ideally months) to "fatten up" before placing them in a tank with males of
their species. If she died, the fry could easily have swum out.>
I removed the fry and then all of a sudden this creamy/brown slimy stuff
appeared everywhere. I did a water change, taking out almost half the water, the
tank seemed fine for a few days and then all of a sudden the tank is now very
cloudy with black soot looking algae? all over the rocks, gravel and plants (all
artificial).
<Doesn't ring any bells I'm afraid. Blue-green algae is notorious for suddenly
appearing, but is very distinctive in appearance. The usual "black" algae is
hair algae, actually a dark reddish-green, but again, it is very distinctive.>
I cant seem to find any info when I Google images for black looking algae,
nothing looks like the stuff in my tank. yesterday I vacuumed the tank, took out
and cleaned the plants and rocks and its all back again just as bad as
yesterday.
<A photo would help. But by default, here are the things you do: First check
water parameters, at minimum nitrite and pH. Secondly clean the filter,
obviously taking care not to harm the bacteria but otherwise rinse out any
detritus. Finally, do a big (75%+) water change and give the gravel a deep stir
and siphon while taking out the water.>
Thanks in advance for your help.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Lighting Freshwater Aquarium/ Algae Control 5/12/08
Greetings to the Crew.
<Tom>
Simple question, I think. I am trying to gain control over an algae (BBA)
problem in my 180 FW tank. I use bio-ball filtration. I do a 40 gallon per week
water change. I have 20 boesemani rainbows and 4 clown loaches and a couple of
cory cats. I feed judiciously. Anyway, after selectively killing large chunks of
the BBA with a feeding syringe of 3% H2O2 (being careful to keep from directly
hitting fish), I now want to kill it off the rest of the way. What do you think
of only lighting one half of the tank?
<It will deplete the algae in the non-lit half and spur more in the lit half.>
That way, the rainbow fish could hang in the lighted part when they wanted to,
and the loaches would be comfortable in the darkened side. I would still cycle
the lighted side in regular day-night pattern.
Do the fish “need” more light?
<No.>
There are no plants in this aquarium. The lights I have are two T-5 strips (50
watts, I think for each.)
<The fuel source for the algae is coming from somewhere, water used in water
changes/feeding. You will need to track it down, otherwise you are treating
symptoms and not the problem.>
Thanks
Tom
<Welcome, a link and related FAQ’s pertaining to your issue below. Good luck,
Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fwalgcontrol.htm
Questions. Always with the questions. FW
Algae learning 4/25/08
I have a l55 gallon freshwater tank that's currently inhabited by 13 Neon
Tetras and 3 Platies and a number of live plants. I know this isn't the best
combination of fish, but I didn't realize that when I started out and bought the
poor buggers. Eventually I'll separate the Neon's into a smaller plant less tank
(with some Cory's too), but not until I've fixed the problems in the current
one.
By problems, I mainly mean a persistent algae bloom that I can "control" through
frequent water changes and the heavy use of a diatom filter.
Basically, I do a 30% to 40% water change, pop in the filter, leave it in for a
few days and then take it out. A few days after that, when the algae bloom is
really starting to gain ground again, I repeat the process.
<Ahhh>
I've taken the following actions to control the algae bloom. They all seem to
work a little bit, but none of them by themselves or in concert vanquishes the
green stuff.
- Repeated dosing with Algaefix, an algaecide by API.
<A poor idea...>
This worked to an extent but never eradicated the bloom entirely. I can get
better effect by using the diatom filter, so I've stopped with the Algaefix
dosing entirely.
<Good>
- Restriction of the fish to an every other day feeding cycle, and being stingy
with the food on the day they get fed. Poor fish, they always seem so hungry.
The idea here was that if the cause of the bloom was from excess nutrients in
the water coming in via excess feeding, restricting the amount of food provided
would reduce the level of nutrients to a point where the bloom would go away.
- Reduction of the amount of light to the bare minimum necessary to keep the
plants from dying. Originally I had two 40W Aqua-Glo fluorescent bulbs.
I found that if I dialed the timer back to where the bulbs were only on 8 hours
a day, the bloom would grow slowly enough that I could go nearly an entire week
before it got to a point where the diatom filter was needed. I subsequently
replaced one of the aqua-glo's with a sun-Glo (4200K) which is not supposed to
have the correct wavelengths of light to stimulate photosynthesis so that I
could leave the lights on for longer than 8 hours.
The algae bloom is a bit stronger now, but that could be because of the longer
days now that we're heading towards summer.
- Frequent monitoring of the level of ammonia, nitrates, pH, KH and GH. I know
from my monitoring that the tank's *pH* is a rock solid 7.8 and that the
*ammonia and nitrate* levels are pretty much zero as near as I can tell (thanks
to the algae, likely).
<All good...>
So, with all this information, I've been able to narrow down the source of the
algae bloom to one of three causes.
(1) The artificial lighting. The thing is, I know that most people with planted
tanks have much higher light intensities than what my tank has, so the
artificial lights cannot, by themselves be the source of the problem. If that
was the case, then everyone who had a planted tank with a higher intensity than
mine would be having exactly the same problem that I am.
(2) Light coming in from a nearby window. I knew it wasn't a great idea, but I
installed my tank near a window. The thing is, the window is underneath a second
story deck and never gets direct light except during the summer and even then
only in the hours before sunset. Even then, there's never direct sunlight on the
tank. There's a window shade that, while not opaque, does reduce the intensity
of the light that does come in. So, it's entirely possible that the source of my
problem is the light coming in from the window and the only solution is to move
the tank. Boy, I really don't want to do that.
(3) The third possibility is that there's too much phosphate in the water. I
went out and bought a phosphate test kit and found that my tank water has a
phosphate concentration of around 0.5 ppm.
<This is high>
I thought this was odd, as I hardly feed my fish at all and do frequent water
changes. Besides, the algae does a great job of keeping the nitrate levels down
near zero so why wouldn't it do the same with the phosphate?
<Not a/the rate-limiting factor... is in excess relatively>
In a flash of insight I thought to check my tapwater, and lo and behold it has a
phosphate concentration of 0.5 ppm.
<Ah, yes>
So, I have a couple of courses of action and I wanted your advice on a couple of
things. As I see it, I can move the tank to as far from a window as I can get it
and I can buy some sort of system to get rid of the phosphate in the tapwater.
<Is what I'd do, in addition to... boosting competition with the use of other
photosynthates... plants>
I'd prefer to do neither, but before I do either I want to know if one is
contributing more to the problem than the other.
So, here's my questions for you folks:
(1) Is a phosphate concentration of 0.5 ppm by itself enough to cause a
persistent algae bloom like I'm describing?
<Mmm, along with other factors, yes>
(2) There's this stuff out there called Phos-Zorb. The idea is that I can put it
in a filter and use it to pull all the phosphates out of the water in the tank.
If I then maintain the water level of the tank with distilled water for a while,
I should be able to see whether removal of the phosphate alone takes care of the
problem.
Is doing this with the Phos-Zorb a good idea, or am I somehow going to kill my
fish or something by using this stuff?
<Better to go the longer-haul-fix of getting, using a blend of RO water... and
for you to use the RO as well for your drinking, cooking purposes>
(3) If removal of the Phos-Zorb takes care of the problem, what sort of RO/DI
system do I need to get.
<Mmm, just a "cheapy" from a large hardware store... learning to divert the
"stored" water nightly to a container for water change use...>
I gather that an RO system by itself doesn't remove Phosphates and that I need a
specific resin to take care of phosphates, but I can't really tell from your
FAQ's what specifically I want. Here in the NW we have extremely soft water. I
have to add salt to the water I put in the tank to keep the Platies alive.
Otherwise, they die quite quickly.
<Mmm... I'd look into other means of raising the bar here... on alkalinity>
Anyhow, thanks in advance for your advice. You guys were great when I was having
problems (the soft water issue) with my platies a few months ago.
Regards,
Aaron Cooke
<A bit more reading on the use of simple aquatic plants (perhaps just
Ceratopteris floating... or Myriophyllum... the RO device, time going by,
perhaps a bit more circulation, mechanical filtration (the addition of a large
hang on or canister filter...) I wouldn't get into the chemical filtrant habit.
Bob Fenner>
Tank questions about 2
different tanks... Endogenous algae prob.s/SW, Piranha tank plant sel.
04/14/2008
Hello,
<Hi there>
Tank- 200 gal (7'Lx2'Wx2'H), 130+ pounds LR, 40 gal refugium plus a large
hang-on refugium, 3-XP3's canisters, 2 Rio 2100 (694gph) and 3 Penguin 1140
(300gph) power heads on sides and back of tank. And a Coralife 220gallon Protein
Skimmer.\\
<Mmm, I'd upgrade>
Fish- 8" Russell's Lionfish, 3 triggers Niger, Humu, and a Bursa all 4", 2
yellow Tangs 4", 5" Foxface Lo, and a 13" Wolf Eel. I also have a lot of Red
Mushrooms, Button coral, and 2 different leathers. And I do a 30gal water
changes (w/ RO water) every 2-3 weeks. This tank has been up and running for
over 3 years.
I get brown algae out breaks, I also have green (hair) fuzz algae on most my
rocks and back and sides of tank. I was told since I clean my canisters once a
month (not often enough),
<This is so... I'd clean them at least weekly>
that the entire gunk they collected just creates more Nitrate, lots. What I
should do is over time keep the skimmer and get rid of the canisters and add
more power heads for more current so that the LR (and refugiums) can do there
jobs. (20gph times your tank size ((4000gph)), so I need 1720gph more in my
aquarium) Does that sound alright?
<A beginning...>
I do use Chemi-pure and Phos-Zorb in each filter. I also test water a Reef
Master Test kit. My Nitrate and Phosphate are both low and are in the safe
ranges but they both show up, always have.
<These measures of nutrient ability are not entirely "accurate"... the real bulk
of this matter is being expressed, taken up by the algae and BGA (the brown
stuff)>
I also have allot
<Won't correct this time... a lot>
of this bright yellowish-greenish sponge (Cecilia I think)
<Not this feminine appellation; though a fave Simon and Garfunkel tune>
growing on my LR. Is it bad or good?
<Mmm, more of the latter>
I'm setting up a 90gal (4'Lx18"Wx2'H) FW, I'm going to get 3 baby Red Belly
piranhas. I do plan on having plants growing out the top of my aquarium. Just
the roots will be in the tank. So with that said should this set-up be OK for
2-3 adult size Red Belly piranhas in the long run? And what kind of plants
besides Bamboo should I use?
<Yes and if only one, my fave, Ceratopteris>
Thanks for all your advice
Matt Owens
<Welcome. I'd get a better skimmer, perhaps ditch the canister filters
altogether, or clean out weekly as stated... add more/new live rock... and
likely skip the Serrasalmines (too skittish and boring as you'll see)... Cheers,
Bob Fenner>
Green Water – 03/18/08
Hey there!
My RES is a little over 6 years old and everything has been going great!!
All of a sudden after the last water change my water has turned green! So green
that I cant see my turtle swimming in tank, and that can't be fun for him
either! He's no where near the window so there is no direct sunlight and the
tank is as clean as it could possibly be! Is there any other things that it
could possibly be???
Thanks
Hillary
<This is, as you seem to suspect, algae. It means you aren't doing enough water
changes and the filter is inadequate to the task. Sunlight + nutrients in the
water = algae. So do more water changes, and upgrade the filter. For terrapins,
you need a filter providing not less than six times the volume of the tank in
turnover per hour, and I'd recommend at least 8-10 times the volume of the tank
in turnover per hour. A bigger tank will also help by diluting the problem.
Nothing else will work. While the terrapin likely doesn't care about the algae
as such, the fact you have algae at all indicates poor environmental conditions,
and long term that opens you up to healthcare issues that are expensive to treat
and painful for the animal. Cheers, Neale.>
Redfield Ratio for algae
control 2/26/08
I love your website. This is my first question, and I'm a little
apprehensive that you may have answered it previously and I failed to find it. I
tried...
<No worries>
What do your experts think about use of the "Redfield ratio" as a metric to
guide water chemistry for the control of algae?
<An interesting observation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redfield_ratio
re a proportionality of principal bio-elements in the sea and the phytoplankton
there>
I have a 110 gal planted freshwater tank that's been up and running for 9
months. I use RO water to replace evaporation and to keep GH and KH where I want
them. I inject CO2 to control pH and nourish plants. I rarely change water, but
I have zero measurable ammonia, nitrate or nitrite. I have never tested for
phosphates.
Plants and livestock are doing well. I do have to work to keep algae under
control. I've reduced lighting -- which helped. I still get hair algae which I
remove manually as best I can; what I think is black algae which grows in clumps
and seems to like my bogwood; and the uniform short green "fur" that grows on
flat surfaces under direct light.
<Can be bugaboos>
What I've read about Redfield ratio seems to make sense. I haven't seen any
specific guidelines for how to keep the nitrate: phosphate ratio at 16:1 which
supposedly is the magic number. Have any of your experts used Redfield ratio?
<I have not>
What are their impressions?
<Well... limiting "something" (typically soluble phosphate) IS a general
approach to limiting pest algal growth... but some HPO4 is absolutely necessary
for your "real" plants...>
Any easy rules of thumb or products for adjusting nitrate and phosphate or am I
on my own to figure it out?
<Is an interesting speculation... but I don't think trying to establish this
ratio in a captive system is going to work... However, there are other means...
of mediation (anaerobic bacterial most celebratedly)... I do encourage you to
read about, seek out a useful phosphate test kit... measure your source water,
the system... Though bear in mind that these are dynamic patterns... the
"amount" of phosphate available is not going to "show" as much is bound up in
the algae, your plants, mulm to a smaller extent... and being added via feeding
on your part on a regular basis>
Thanks for your patience, assistance and a great resource.
Mark in Easton, KS.
<Thank you for your sharings. Bob Fenner>
Beneficial bacteria, reading
re FW algae/BGA 2/26/08
Hello. How are you today???
<Fine; and you?>
Im e-mailing you because I have a question (obviously.) Anyway, I have a 45
gallon tank with cichlids and a whisper power filter. However, there are mushy
stringy slimy things growing in the "net" thing in my power filter. Is this
gooey stuff supposed to be the beneficial bacteria?
<Mmm, not likely... Is probably algae, perhaps a type of algae amongst a group
that is bacterial... Cyano...>
Or is it just dirty stuff I need to clean out? What does the beneficial bacteria
look like? Last, how do you clean the filter without killing too much beneficial
bacteria? Thanks a ton.
-Dave
<Read a ton: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwbgafaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Algae problems, FW
2/21/08
Good day Crew, Here is my hoping that you may be of help to me. My
girlfriend and I have a 55 gallon tank that has Two Jack Dempseys as its
inhabitants. The male being 9 inches the female bout 7 inches in length. These
fish were raised (believe it or not) on dry Cat food and are two of the most
colorful Jacks that I have ever seen anywhere. A while back say 4 months ago I
added a Corallife power compact 110 watt light that I had from and old Salt
water setup. The light contains twin 55 watt 50/50 bulbs, actinic /10k. In the
last couple of months a green fast growing algae has begun to invade and take
over the tank. I have tested the tank water and found 10 ppm nitrate and 1 ppm
phosphate (Salifert). I have also tested the tap water used to maintain the tank
and found it to be free from nitrate and or phosphate. I have stopped the Dry
cat food feeding and started a more traditional method, Cichlid pellets. Also we
have been doing weekly water changes and gravel vacuuming in an attempt to get a
handle on this scourge. Filtration is an Emperor 400 with BioWheel running.
Other that the obvious Cat food issue (possible source of PO4) and the odd
lighting arrangement, what would be your guess as to the root cause of this
sudden outbreak. thank you for any help that you may provide me. Mark
<Hello Mark. Algae is always a problem in tanks without fast-growing plants.
Without fast-growing plants, there's really nothing you can do about it.
Sometimes the rate at which algae grows isn't very fast, but then you change
something (e.g., replace the light bulbs) and suddenly it becomes more obvious.
Direct sunlight is another trigger, and at certain times of the year your tank
will be getting more sunlight than at others. Adding fast-growing floating
plants like Amazon Frogbit or Indian Fern is the obvious way to tackle the
problem head on. But otherwise, don't worry about it. Fish like algae, and
virtually all cichlids eat at least some, so it's good to have it in the tank
(especially if you plan on breeding your fish). Increasing water circulation can
help as well. The easiest thing is simply to scrape away the front glass and
leave algae to grow everywhere else. Cheers, Neale.>
Algae on My Snail, Causing Me Discomfort - 02/07/2007
<Hi there! Mich here tonight.>
My snail has algae all over it, it can't be good for it.
<It's really not detrimental to it.>
What do I do?
<If it really bothers you, you can remove it with a little manual manipulation,
perhaps with a paper towel. Hope that helps. -Mich>
Unidentified algae, FW,
reading – 1/26/08
Dear WetWebMedia,
<Rachel>
I have a question about my 20 gallon tropical fish tank. My question is about a
weird type of algae that I can't identify. Here is what happens: first, I'll
have just cleaned my tank completely because the algae gets so terrible and
completely green, and then my tank will be fine for about two weeks until it
starts to get really cloudy.
<Mmm, not good... Very hard on your livestock...>
After about a week or two of the cloudy water, the water starts to turn green.
The algae isn't growing on any of the ornaments or anything, it just seems to be
growing in the water.
<There are "free floating" types...>
It'll get so bad that I have to then clean it again.
<Ahh, no>
I don't know what I'm doing wrong because I haven't changed anything and the
tank has been set up for two years and I've never had this problem.
<Mmm, things unseen change, changing here... a dominant life, cycle establishing
itself...>
It isn't in sunlight and I don't have my light on any longer than I used to.
<Good point>
I have guppies, zebra danios, and platies in the tank, along with a Cory
catfish. I don't overfeed them. I just don't know what to do anymore. I have a
filter in there that is for 20-40 gallons. I just have no idea. Please help me
out. Thank you so much.
Sincerely, Amee
<Likely adding some redundant filtration, circulation, possibly a chemical
filtrant will help here... Perhaps a higher-plant competitor... Please read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
UV TurboTwist 3x and fluval 404... FW filtr., alg. contr. -
1/24/08
Great site, very helpful! I've got a 55 gallon tank with two Aquaclear 50,
each with a small piece of foam, and then filled with carbon. A Fluval
404, bottom two sections foam, top two Bio-max.
<Hmm... I tend to consider carbon a waste of time in freshwater tanks.
Here's my pop-quiz for you: what does carbon do that water changes don't
do better? Bzzz... Nothing! Carbon in Old School fishkeeping from back
when people avoided water changes, doing 25% per month or even less.
Carbon removed the organics from the water, stopping it go yellow. Since
we now do big water changes every week, the organics never reach a
concentration where they cause problems to freshwater fish, so the
carbon is redundant.>
It's a healthy tank, with 9 Discus, from 2" to 4". Two Cory cats, a
small Pleco, and a tiretrack eel. I've added a Coralife Turbo-Twist 3x
(9 watt) mostly for green water algae.
<Green Water is not normally a problem in freshwater tanks. It's more a
pond issue. UV filters have next to now effect on things like hair algae
or the diatoms that cover the glass. Healthy plants are a far better way
to deal with algae, to be honest.>
Can I still run my Fluval at full blast? If I have to slow down the flow
for the UV, how will that affect my biological filtration?
<It's a Catch-22. If the water is pumped too quickly through a UV
steriliser, the microbes aren't all killed. But canister filters need
rapid water flow to keep the oxygen supply inside the canister adequate
for the needs of the bacteria. Realistically, I'd always favour
filtration above UV; I'd sooner have 100% biological filtration capacity
but only 50% UV efficiency than the other way around. UV is undoubtedly
useful in marine tanks, but in freshwater systems it's a luxury, so
there's no need to squeeze out every drop of performance from the
contraption. Regular water changes, rapid plant growth under strong
lighting, and control of nitrate and phosphate levels will have a
dramatically greater impact on fish health and algae control.>
Thanks, Joe
<Cheers, Neale.>
FW algae problem
1/14/08
Hello Crew, (Neale?)
Thank you for great site.
<Thanks for the kind words.>
I have a question about my 20 g planted tank.
Tank is about 4-5 months old.
Fish:
harlequin rasbora(6)
cardinal tetra(6)
ram(3)
<All nice fish, carefully selected by the looks of things.>
Plants:
Anubias, Vallisneria, water sprite
Temperature-84 F
NH3-0
NO2-0
NO3-5 ppm
Light-2 w/g
No CO2
<OK.>
The problem is that the Vallisneria quickly grow to the top of the water
and it looks to me like water sprite is dying because of the Vallisneria.
<Vallisneria can, will dominate given the chance. You have to be fierce at
pruning time, removing excess plants on a regular basis. Do also be aware that
Vallisneria softens water, removing carbonate hardness. So rampant Vallisneria
growth can have an impact on the water chemistry of an aquarium.>
Before that the water sprite grow very nicely. Now algae is becoming a
real problem.
<Specifically, which sort of algae? Red algae (actually looks blue/green and
forms long straggly threads) is a major problem with Vallisneria. It sticks to
old leaves close to the surface. The only solution here is to remove infected
leaves FROM THE BASE OF THE PLANT as soon as you notice the algae. Green algae
(tufts of short, grassy looking algae) is generally less of a problem and is
adequately controlled using snails, shrimps, algae-eating fish of various types.
Anubias will always get covered in algae in brightly-lit aquaria. It has no
ability to prevent this, and apparently wild plants live in shade, so these
plants actually PREFER darker aquaria. In any event, the easiest way to deal
with algae on Anubias is to wipe the leaves manually. Since Anubias is correctly
attached to rock or wood, you can sometimes remove the plant (and its perch) to
the kitchen sink, and wipe down the leaves carefully with your fingers under a
gently running cold tap.>
What options do I have stop algae grows? Can I add a few Oto cats to my
tank?
<If the algae is green algae, then Otocinclus may be an option, but they don't
tend to do well in the warm water Rams need. They are also far from easy to
maintain. So I'd tend to reject them in favour of something easier to look
after. If your tank has neutral to slightly basic, moderately hard water then
shrimps and snails are definitely good choices. Nerite snails won't breed and do
an excellent job of eating algae, and the value of Amano shrimps and Cherry
shrimps as algae eaters is well known. In acidic conditions, your best bet would
be juvenile Ancistrus, though adults would be too big for your tank, or at least
too disruptive. Ditto for Siamese Algae Eaters (Epalzeorhynchos kallopterus). Do
remember that fish and invertebrates essentially manage soft green algae; they
have little to no impact on brown algae ("diatoms"), red algae ("hair algae"),
or blue-green algae ("Cyanobacteria").>
Should I add some more plants?
<Certainly worth a shot. Perhaps replace (or at least reduce) the Vallisneria
planting in favour of reliable algae-beaters such as Hygrophila or floating
plants like Ceratophyllum. Do also try other things: check the tank isn't
receiving direct sunlight, and also try controlling the amount of light. A
siesta period between light periods seems to harm plants less than algae. Set
the timer for the lights to 5-6 hours on, 2 hours off, then another 5-6 hours
on.>
Thank you for your help
Mark
<Cheers, Neale.>
Am I right to let algae grow?
1/9/08
Hi there,
Found your website the other day and I'm hooked (no pun intended!).
<Glad you enjoy.>
I've been reading various articles on the site about algae and the control of
it.
I have algae in my tank but have left it, let me go into a bit more detail.
<OK.>
I'm new to fishkeeping and bought a Rena Aquacube from Pets at Home, a good
starter tank and all is well. I have 3 White Cloud Minnow - I did have 5 but 2
died, though they seem happy and content with just the 3 of them. 3's a crowd
can't be described for these fish. I also have 2 platies. I have about 1 and a
half inch worth of substrate and I have live plants which look very nice,
despite the algae on them.
<The Rena Aquacube contains 43 litres of water, or about 11 US gallons. This
isn't much water, and well below what you really need for either White Cloud
Mountain Minnows or Platies. On the other hand, WCMMs especially need to be kept
in groups of at least 6 for long-term success.>
I did have 3 types of plant but removed one type, sadly can't remember the name.
This plant seemed to be causing most of the algae in my aquarium, plenty of hair
algae too so my friend who used to keep fish advised I removed it to see if
there was a change, which there was. I still get algae but not as much as what I
used to. The fish seemed to liven up too.
<Plants DO NOT cause algae; quite the reverse in fact, they are the ONLY thing
other than manual removal that will reduce algae. If you have insufficient
lighting (less than 2 watts per gallon) then plants won't grow, and in dying,
they pollute the water, encouraging the growth of algae. Adding "algae eater"
fish doesn't help either, because while they may trim back algae on some
surfaces, they also pollute the tank in the process, speeding up the rate at
which algae grows.>
I bought some anti-algae stuff in a bottle but upon reading the rigmarole about
how to use it I decided against it.
<DO NOT USE THIS STUFF! Creates more problems than it solves.>
I clean my tank weekly, but seeing as one of my Platy's (Phoebe) decided to give
birth unexpectedly I've increased my cleaning routine to twice a week. However,
algae still forms. I have a fake rock formation, made of plastic which is where
the algae likes to form, also the glass gets green spots on which I remove with
magnets. I clean the glass and use a gravel Hoover to suck up detritus (love
that word!) and also clean the breeding net the fry are in. I have left the rock
formation and has a good coating of algae but the water is still crystal clear.
<Algae is basically harmless. What it tells you is that the tank is not
"balanced" in the sense that there is more nitrate/phosphate in the system than
the plants (or water changes) are removing. In tanks with lots of fast-growing
plants (i.e., plants that need trimming every couple of weeks) you get virtually
no algae, however much lighting the tank receives, and almost regardless of
stocking levels. Strange but true. The mechanism is unknown for certain, though
allelopathy probably has some role.>
I just want to check to make sure that I'm ok in doing this. The 2 Platy eat the
algae from the plants, rock formation and also suck it off the breeding net, I
wouldn't say it is out of control but just wanted to know that I'm ok leaving
algae in.
<Platies do indeed enjoy algae.>
Apologies for prattling on just for a simple question but I just like to make
sure I'm doing the right thing and that I'm not harming my fish/aquarium by
letting algae grow though not out of control.
<No, no harm done.>
Keep up the great work!
<Thanks!>
Adam
<Cheers, Neale.>
... Corydoras repro...
algae/"mold" poor English 12/16/07
hi WWM crew
I've been keeping my tank maintained perfectly, its a 25 gallon community tank.
but last week I noticed a lot of mold on the bottom so I started cleaning it and
I got a snail. this week I noticed even more mold growing on the bottom. so I
started cleaning it and I saw baby Cory catfish -.- just my luck probably sucked
up a fee of them. so now what can I do to get rid of the mold and keep the
babies safe, I probably have about 10 babies also I noticed some small worms
wiggling around every once in awhile and fish eating them. Mmmmm?
thanks for your help
<Greetings. Assuming these are something easy to rear like Corydoras aeneus or
Corydoras paleatus, your best bet is to move the fry to a floating breeding
net/trap for the first month or so, and then to another tank. Corydoras fry grow
quite slowly, but after about 2-3 months they are safely mixed with their
parents. Cheers, Neale.>
... Corydoras repro...
algae/"mold" poor English... bad to worse 12/16/07
this doesn't answer my question, what's going on with my tank? whys the mold
growing and how do I get rid of it? and I cant move the babies since they are
good hiders and they are big enough to be with their parents.
<Feel free to say "thanks" and extend common courtesies such as using proper
spellings, grammar, capital letters, etc. Certainly avoid taking the attitude
that you paid for my services and I didn't deliver. The "house rules" for
messages to WWM crew are on clearly posted on the FAQ address page, so there's
really no excuse for not making an effort to be polite. Your bad manners dealt
with, let's turn to your fishkeeping skills. Mould grows in dirty tanks and
can't grow in clean tanks. Period. End of discussion. Moulds can't grow on clean
gravel or bare glass because they can't find anything to eat there. If your
aquarium truly has fungi growing along the bottom of the tank, then you have a
lot of organic detritus there for them to eat. So clean and/or replace the
substrate and keep in clean as part of your normal maintenance regime. Dirty
tanks lead to high rates of fry mortality. When rearing fry "the cleaner, the
better". Cheers, Neale.>
Big time algae problem... FW?
11/29/07
Hey, ladies and gentlemen!
It's been awhile since any major problems, but I've got one now for you! I
noticed a few weeks back that I started getting a "dark green/brown" algae on a
lot of the rocks in my tank. It's pretty "stringy/grassy" I guess, maybe a few
centimeters long, but it's getting out of control and looks terrible. Parameters
seems to be ok, tank has been up and rolling strong for a good 9 months. I've
also been keeping my tank around 79-80 or so with lights on for around 9 hours
per day.
Any thoughts on how to fix this nasty issue?
Ps: your stuff is super helpful!
<Aaron, it sounds like you have "hair algae", actually a kind of red alga
despite its appearance to the contrary. In any case, it is one of the most
difficult algae to shift once established. Essentially you have to physically
remove what you can, and then use strong lights (2 watts per gallon upwards) to
boost very rapid plant growth using fast-growing species like Hygrophila and
Cabomba. The plants will (in ways not fully understood) suppress the growth the
hair algae. There really aren't any fish that do much to destroy hair algae,
though Siamese Algae Eaters will eat a certain amount if sufficiently hungry
(i.e., not fed anything else for several days). Neither do snails or shrimps
have much impact. As with any algae problem, adding "algae eaters" can (will!)
increase the nutrient loading in the water, speeding up the rate at which the
algae grow. The triggering factors for hair algae are typically low to mediocre
lighting, moderate to high levels of phosphate and nitrate, limited water
movement, and direct sunlight. If you have a fish-only tank with either no
plants or only a few slow-growing species, then it's easiest to mechanically
remove what you can and learn to love what's left. Fish happen to like the
algae, and small fish and shrimps especially love foraging in the stuff for tiny
bits of food. It's a natural part of the aquatic world, and can actually look
quite nice when allowed to grow over dramatic rocks and big bits of wood.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Green water -continued
10/20/07
Hi Bob,
(note: the previous message is attached below)
I don't think that the problem is a lack of denitrification. Not to go against
what you are saying because I wouldn't be writing if I didn't respect your
advice... It's my fault because I didn't explain my situation correctly.
<Okay>
I do not have a high nitrate problem, which I believe would indicate a need for
more denitrification. I use to have horrible nitrate problems (before June)
until I changed to the new filter, and btw, when I said I had "bio-balls" I
meant that I have round sintered glass beads ranging in size from 3/16" to 3/8"
in size.
<... different>
In total I have 3 liters of them in the filter.
<Great>
In addition to the "beads", I have 1 liter of sintered glass tubes (rings?),
a foam pad, and 2 fiber pads.
My Nitrates will usually rise about 5ppm per week if I do not change out any
water (is this normal, low or high?)
<Is low-ish>
Lately however, I have been changing out so much water (2-3 20% changes per
week) that my nitrates are barely detectable. Still my water wants to turn
cloudy green.
<Interesting>
I have been using a DE filter to clean the green out of the water, but when I am
done you can see the problem returning within 8-12 hours.
Understanding that the algae need nutrition, and since all other bases have been
covered, could it be possible that there is a shortage of heterotrophic
bacteria?
<Yes... and protozoans>
Can algae feed directly on organic waste? Since I do not have the nitrate
problem that I once had, I am wondering if my system is just not producing the
ammonium that it should, but rather, is directly feeding the algae. If so, how
does one address this issue?
<A few approaches... again, more live plants, more substrate... other avenues of
increasing the diversity of the habitat, surface area>
Lastly, to put it all on the table to see what you think. In June I made several
changes, which 1 or a combination of has brought about this issue.
1) I got rid of a huge 12" pacu in trade for several small fishes of much less
total body mass. 2) I got the new filter, with media. 3) I added 3 pieces of
drift wood.
<This might be having a discernible effect.>
4) I changed from using pure carbon, to using Chemi-Pure. I have discussed the
other changes with you in past discussions, but what about the Chemi-pure? What
is in that stuff?
<GAC and a resin... in a Dacron bag...>
Could it be a contributor? I noticed a stain on my fiber filter pad that looked
like rust. Do you know if Chemi-pure has iron oxide in it?
<Does not>
Does it introduce anything else into the water that could promote algae?
<Not likely>
Lastly, lastly, I have thought of spiking the filter with bio-Spira, but that is
costly if not necessary, besides I do not know if it would even provide the
necessary bacteria. What do you think?
Thanks for your site and your time,
Scott
<I do wish there was a simple way of tying a live sump/refugium into this
system... growing some plants, having a DSB with an alternating day/light cycle
with your main tank. Whatever organism/s (likely BGA) that have established
themselves, you've got to disrupt them somehow... to re-establish a dynamic
favoring your livestock... and you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Green water -continued
10/20/07
Bob,
<Scott>
I read your article on BGA. I had not seen it before, but I think this is now
starting to make sense.
<Good>
I went to my LFS today and the guy there insisted that if I change out my
florescent bulb and lower my Ph that my problem will go away.
<Possibly>
After reading your article I can see why he suggested this. My bulb is about 3
years old which he says will increase the "bad" wavelengths and is 6000K of
light, and the one he suggested is 18000K and puts out more red and blue
wavelengths and less green. Also, lowering my Ph (although it is only 7.6 and
not 8.0+) seems to agree as well. Btw, he recommended Sea-Chem Acid Buffer which
does not contain phosphates. This is great because I was not happy with my other
choices of either high Ph or high phosphates.
<Okay>
He thinks that if I do this (above recommendations) and continue with my DE
filtering and excessive gravel vacuuming that my problem will go away soon.
Do you concur?
<Might... You could add a UV sterilizer and it would definitely go... but would
this address causative issues?>
To me it seems like an awful simple solution to a very old and elusive problem,
but I think I will try this approach for a month or so and see if it works. I
like simple, especially if it works.
Scott
<Me too... Consider myself simple... though I don't do much work! Heeeeee! I
would try what was suggested Scott. BobF>
Algae issue - short black fur
10/3/07
Hi WWM crew,
I have hunted everywhere for a solution to my algae issue with no luck.
It looks like short dark brown/black fur. It's about 6-7mm (0.3 inches) long and
really thick (just like fur) and it's covering all of my rocks and even most of
the plants. I have been looking for solutions such as creatures to eat the
algae, but have had no luck. I have other tanks in more daylight and they don't
have this algae problem so it's not a question of light. The tank with the
problem is a 200L community freshwater with alkaline pH, 26 degrees Celsius, low
population (2 small calvus, 2 Bristlenose cats, 5 small to medium rainbows, 1
small dickfeldi, 1 medium butterfly, 1 medium Kribensis). The tank is mostly
landscaped with rocks, but there are some hardy plants (still getting
shredded by the fish!) and 1 long, thin piece of driftwood.
Hope you can help because my once beautiful tank is looking like some weird
furry alien landscape - very bleak and dull!!
Thanks!!
Lachlan
<Despite the blue-black colour, this short furry algae is a type of red algae.
Nothing really likes to eats it. Almost certainly the problem is lack of natural
plants while having relatively bright lighting. For example, you usually see
this sort of algae in either unplanted tanks or tanks with slow growing plants
like Anubias and Java fern. So, there are two options. The first is to add fast
growing plants like Hygrophila, Cabomba, or even floating plants. Through
allelopathy, these plants will prevent algae of all types growing. You may need
to increase the lighting in the tank for this to work though -- paradoxically,
algae is more of a problem in poorly lit tanks than strongly lit ones! The
alternative is to accept it as part of the environment. The fish certainly won't
care, and especially at breeding time, this hair algae forms a home for the
micro-organisms baby fish like to eat. About the only fish I know of that eats
this type of algae is Jordanella floridae (the Florida Flagfish) though only
when hungry. How effective they will be against an established population I
can't say, but since they're nice fish in their own right, definitely worth a
shot. Cheers, Neale>
Freshwater Algae ID? - 10/07/2007
Hi Crew,
What the heck are these things? Since the photo is somewhat un-focused,
let me explain what you are looking at. They are 3/16" green cylindrical,
growths on the glass directly under the sides of the light. They are built with
concentric rings and refract the light in a bow-tie fashion like a CD ROM (you
can see the refraction in the photo and if you move your head the "bow-tie"
shaped reflection rotates around the growth. I looked at them with a magnifying
glass and can see nothing in the middle. Also, my pleco's are not eating them,
but keep the rest of the tank spotless. The tank is a fresh-water, South
American biotype, and water conditions are close to perfect. There are no live
plants in the tank because the silver dollars eat them upon entry.
Thanks,
Scott
<Difficult to say for certain... photo too blurry. But probably some
sort of calcareous green alga. Such things do exist in freshwater habitats. They
can be difficult to remove, though a safety razor blade will do the trick.
Generally a sign of good water quality and relatively bright light. Cheers,
Neale>
<<The image appears to have been lost.... -Sabrina>>
Bamboo shrimp, green water 9/28/07
Hello -
I am raising plants in a tank that gets 2.5+ hours of direct sunlight a day (it
is a bit of an experiment on my part). Surprise, surprise, I've get a green
water problem. While the plants seem to be slowly winning, I thought I would
accelerate the process by introducing a bamboo shrimp. He appears to be happily
eating. My question: is he eating the single-celled algae that are the green
water, or is he *just* eating the daphnia that are the other animal I introduced
to try to combat the greenness. Thanks!
-- Greg
<Hello Greg. The answer is a little from Column A, a little from Column B.
Atyopsis spp. shrimps are opportunistic feeders, and will take both zooplankton
and phytoplankton. They also eat decaying organic matter, which in terms of
aquarium husbandry means they happily eat things like catfish pellets and algae
wafers. If you're looking for a way to turn green water clear, Atyopsis almost
certainly *won't* do that. They just don't strain the water efficiently enough
at the size bracket of things like planktonic green algae. The true
phytoplankton specialists in freshwater ecosystems are things like bivalves at
the large scale and planktonic crustaceans (including Daphnia) at the small
scale. Cheers, Neale>
Re: bamboo shrimp, green
water – 10/09/07
Thanks for the input. Interestingly, the water has gotten much less green
since the shrimp's introduction, and he is producing poo pellets at a riotous
rate. Perhaps phytoplankton species come in different sizes, and he is filtering
out the larger varieties? If you are interested, I'll keep you apprised on how
the experiment goes.
-- Greg
<Hi Greg, Thanks for the update! I imagine the water is getting less green for
other reasons than the shrimp (typically, "green water" comes and goes in
blooms). But if you're finding evidence to the contrary, so much the better.
Useful to know, and share with others in similar situations. And yes, do let me
know how things work out in the long term. Cheers, Neale>
Re: bamboo shrimp, green
water – 10/09/07
Thanks for the input. Interestingly, the water has gotten much less green
since the shrimp's introduction, and he is producing poo pellets at a riotous
rate. Perhaps phytoplankton species come in different sizes, and he is filtering
out the larger varieties? If you are interested, I'll keep you apprised on how
the experiment goes.
-- Greg
<Hi Greg, Thanks for the update! I imagine the water is getting less green for
other reasons than the shrimp (typically, "green water" comes and goes in
blooms). But if you're finding evidence to the contrary, so much the better.
Useful to know, and share with others in similar situations. And yes, do let me
know how things work out in the long term. Cheers, Neale>
Please help with this problem!!!!!!!!
– 08/31/07
<<Hi, Kelley. Tom here.>>
I have four rubber eels, a ghost fish, four neons, three algae eaters.
<<And a ‘shift’ key on your keyboard, Kelley. (You’ve kept your post short
but it still needs to be proofread before I can send my response to you and our
site.) ;) That small “editorial” moment aside, you’ve an interesting collection
of life going on. You don’t specifically describe your “algae eaters” (the list
is a long one) but I would guess that they’re not of the bottom-dwelling
Plecostomus variety. Your eels (Caecilians) would have made their presence, and
teeth, known to a nice, plump Pleco laying on the dinner table!>>
My tank is green!
<<Either an algae bloom or, your algae eaters are on strike. I’ll assume the
former.>>
All of the algae destroyers say don’t use with invertebrates. What now?
<<Turn off the lights and block any sunlight that might be reaching the tank. A
large water change might help to get things started but won’t “cure” the
problem. The main thing is to cut out the light source(s) for a few days. Don’t
use “chemical” means to get rid of the bloom. Unattractive as your green water
may appear, it’s not dangerous/toxic for the fish or eels.>>
Please, I’m so afraid my eels will get hurt.
<<They won’t if you keep the chemicals out of the tank, Kelley.>>
Thanks,
Kelley
<<You’re welcome. Tom>>
Freshwater
brown/purple hair algae... Brown, "beard"... 8/8/07
Hi, WWM gurus! It's been awhile since I required your assistance,
but I seem to have hit a road block with my fw aquarium.
Having algae in the aquarium is no issue to me as I do have algae eaters
(a few otos, Bushynose pleco, whiptail) which I keep more for enjoyment
rather than for their algae eating capabilities. But I've encountered a
type of hair algae which I cannot seem to get rid of.
<This is a tough variety...>
I've a 70 gal. tank with three 30W aquarium fluorescent bulbs, 14
cardinal tetras, 4 clown loaches and the aforementioned algae eaters. My
tank is quite heavily planted with various anubias(?) and java fern and
moss on natural driftwood. Filtration is quite strong. The tank has been
successfully operated for nearly three years now. But recently, this
brown/purple hair algae has shown up and no matter how much trimming I
do, it comes back. It's now overrun my tank. They seem to sprout from
one small point and then grow into a bush-like shape...very light and
flows with the water. The algae is attached to plants (in particular,
the edges), my filtration system...everywhere.
I've looked around your site but it seems most of the responses point
towards some type of bacteria, but I really don't think this is the
case.
This is hair-like in appearance is does not take the form of slime
whatsoever.
What type of algae am I dealing with here? I'm sure it's a common one,
but once I figure out what my adversary is, then I'll bring out the big
guns!
In the meantime, I'm of the thought that the less additives in the tank
to deal with problems, the better. It's most likely environmental,
anyways (read: my own darn fault). I have attached a couple of photos
for you.
Thank you so much, fellas!
Regards,
Ted
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/algcontagfaqs.htm
and the linked FAQs file above... and where embedded... re "Beard
Algae"... onto the Krib (.com) coverage. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Tank specific question(s);
FW, maint... alg. cont. 8/8/07
Hi, I recently found your web resource and am impressed with the audacity of
your sites premise. You offer something that is foreign to web content - you
intend to give personal attention to as much incoming traffic as possible. Being
conscious of this, I'm sorry that I have the types of questions that I do. I
almost feel like this should be some sort of pay service! But, here goes:
<Heeeee! Okay>
info - I re-setup my 55 gal. freshwater tank ~8 weeks ago. I cycled it with 6
diamond tetras that were then immature (1-1.5 inches) and a 1" alto
compressiceps. They were added to the tank with 4 fairly large live plants,
mature swords + crypts, and 2 Microswords. The tank has an undergravel filter
that I am running with 2 powerheads ( one powerhead has a small air intake that
helps add oxygen.) I also have a 5-15 gal. waterfall filter that I use with a
simple sponge media (ie sans carbon).
I have this filter on there just because I had it sitting around. If the water
gets stirred up or if I notice stress I will, infrequently, use carbon in the
filter media just to try and remove any trace elements that might be causing the
problem. In terms of pertinent tank info, I have about 130 watts of lighting and
the tank is tall so it is ~18 inches to the bottom from the fixture. I do weekly
9 gal. water changes since week 3 of the tank's cycle. At week 3 I started to
have algae problems (I had just started water changes and was also fertilizing
my plants so this probably started from unfavorable water conditions) and by
week 4 I added 5 Siamese Algae Eaters and about 30 nerite snails. I now have way
more algae eating capacity than I need and no algae problems. At week six I
added 2 golden balloon rams from my LFS and at week seven 2 Ludwigia and a crypt
spiralis. Throughout this process I have had 3 large rocks in the tank which
contain many caves and crevices that the fish like to frequent. I feed 2 small
pinches of Spectrum general formula 1mm sinking pellets and 1 H20 stable
spectrum wafer 2x a day intermixed with frozen brine shrimp substituted for the
pellets every other day. I also add a green vegetable regularly for the SAE's
and the snails. On to my questions.
1.) The compressiceps is very slow growing, but at some point he will mature and
reach 3-4". Right now he is ~2" and semi territorial but in no way aggressive
beyond a minor chasing of interlopers. In other words he only adds stress to new
fish but not current fish. As he grows should I worry about his interaction with
the 2 rams that I have in tank?
<Possibly... some variability in this (and most all other species)... but in
this volume I give you good (enough) odds of these getting along... If not...>
He pretty much ignores them now, and all the other fish as well. All information
that I can find points to him being fairly communal but If he is going to get
worse with age I want to prepare in advance. I don't mind him eating any, and
all, eggs/fry that appear.
2.) In terms of my algae eating brigade, I have a few questions. In a tall 55gl
I know I have too many things eating algae. I am shooting for a planted tank and
I do have 2+ watts per gallon combined with plant fertilizer 2x a week, so my
concern is poisoning the rest of my tank with overfeeding in order to ensure
that my bottom feeders and suckers have enough to eat. I don't want to have
algae problems but I also don't want poor water quality from overfeeding either.
So, what number of nerite snails and SAE's do you recommend?
<Mmm, am not such a fan of the snails... and your SAEs may fight "too much" at
the current stocking rate... and are "the devil" to catch out in such
settings... You may find yourself trapping out a couple... and possibly
harvesting the molluscs occasionally (a glass ash tray or such... with greenery
in it overnight...)>
The SAE's are very active and I have been thinking of moving 2-3 of them along
with 10-15 snails to another tank. I'm hoping to add about 1 wafer per day for
the algae crew that I keep in this tank instead of the 2+ that I need now in
order to keep everyone from wasting away.
<A good plan... use two nets with the minnows...>
3.) As this is (at least hopefully) a planted tank I've been doing a little DIY
CO2 addition. I've been using 2 2-liter soda bottles with 2 cups sugar and 1/4
teasp. yeast. I change them every 2 weeks. Do I need this addition for the
plants that I have?
<Does likely help>
The comp. doesn't seem to mind the extra acidity and the rest of the fish
actually enjoy the resulting lower PH so I don't mind having it, but it does add
extra labor that the species of plants I have may not require. ( plus I have no
reactor and, I'm pretty sure, a small leak so the amount of CO2 I'm getting from
my setup is minimal) Also the PH will vary night and day because of my simple
system and if its not necessary I want to remove this element of stress to the
fish. Sorry I don't have numbers for my buffering capacity or my night/day PH
but I'm a poor hobbyist without a testing kit. (instead I try to stick to the
slow and safe approach to everything. )
<Mmm... a good philosophy this last... I would get/use an alkalinity test kit...
check periodically/record...>
4.) The diamond tetras are voracious eaters and I sometimes worry about them out
competing the rams for grub. I always watch the feeding and make sure that
something either falls to the bottom or ends up in the ram's mouth. I don't want
to overfeed however so the bottom is perhaps a better indicator. Will the rams
successfully find food that has already found its way to the top of the gravel?
The SAE's wont touch the pellets that have gotten into the gravel.
<They will/should, yes>
5.) I would like to have my fish be comfortable enough to spawn. Is this
realistic given the distribution of species I have?
<Mmm, yes>
The rams are clearly mated. They swim and interact with one another 95% of the
time. And I have enough tetras that they ought to find at least one mating pair.
<More of a group effort>
So far I have seen no sign of spawning amongst my fish.
<Easy to miss>
The tetras are mature but the rams are still immature as they are recently
acquired from the LFS. Any tips?
<Patience, study, observation>
I plan on covering one of my rock faces with java moss ASAP. Any other tips? I
don't care if the eggs/fry survive but the actual occurrence of spawning is
indicative of happy fish and I want to get that far (at least).
6.) I have a glass tank cover, is there an advantageous distance to keep the
water from the top?
<Mmm, just a crack/opening to the surface... unless you have livestock that
can/will exit...>
I want to maximize O2 and CO2 transfer. The farther I make the distance, the
more my waterfall filter ruffles the top and removes CO2 from the tank. My only
concern with filling the tank too high is a reduction in the O2 entering the
water (maybe my plants compensate for this?)
<Very likely you are fine here with the pump/powerhead induction... mixing at
the surface>
6.) Finally, my generic question that you are going to refer me to past articles
on ( I did look beforehand ) I thought that these diamond tetras were much
hardier than the rest of the fish in my tank but the last time I did a water
change and also added 3 plants they acted strangely. I was in the tank with my
arms 3-4 times over a day because of a floating plant and I changed the
direction of the water current. As a result all 6 of the tetras went to the
center, bottom of the tank and floated together without moving. They are
generally VERY energetic in their movements. Is this sort of activity enough to
make them herd cautiously in the center of the tank, or should I be looking for
other elements related to water conditions? The comp, rams and SAEs are behaving
normally. This behaviour has been on going for ~24 hours.
<Interesting... Maybe this is/was "just" behavioral... as you hint, from being
"scared" by your hands in the tank... >
Thanks in advance, and sorry if I've rehashed old questions. The accessibility
of old articles does affect my, and other's, penitent towards researching our
questions. I wouldn't go so far as to complain about the past articles
organization, but I would say that accessibility is adequate but minimal.
<Thank you for sharing, writing so thoroughly. Bob Fenner>
Mysterious Catfish Deaths (and brown algae) –
07/03/07
Hi crew,
<Hello.>
This is my first time writing to you. I have been an avid reader of your pages
for almost a year, and I have gathered much information. I have also kept fish
for quite a long time, and I have never encountered these problems.
<OK.>
Firstly, aquarium stats: 29 G glass bowfront, about 6 months old.
Inhabitants include 3 green cories, 3 Oto, 1 medium angelfish, 4 various
platies, 2 neon rainbowfish. Moderately planted (a couple of swords, sparse java
moss, a couple java ferns, some floating elodea), 24 W T-5 lighting, no CO2 or
air pump, filter for 60 G (300GPH). Ammonium, Nitrites = 0, Nitrates = 10 ppm.
Substrate = Eco Complete. 1 piece of driftwood. pH = 8.x? (it is really high,
and the tests have not been very accurate). Water changes are 25 - 30% once a
week (very regular), siphoning the unplanted areas and under the driftwood and
replacing with treated tap.
<The high pH is alarming. It may be an issue with your test kit. Test kits
designed for the "low end" around pH 5.5-7.5 tend to be inaccurate at the "high
end" around pH 7.5-9.0, and vice versa. So, check that. Second, what's the pH of
the water straight out the tap? Your selection of fish wants a pH around
7.2-7.5, but what matters more than pH is hardness, so you want to check that as
well. If you live in an area supplied with exceptionally hard water (such as
water from a limestone aquifer) you can easily have a pH slightly above 8.0. Not
ideal for things like tetras and angels, though they can adapt.>
Issues:
Cories with degenerating barbels/fins. The cories (had 6 at first) were fine for
the first few months. They grew from baby size into adult size and were super
active. They also had nice fins and barbels. Then, java moss began growing
everywhere, and their barbels started deteriorating. Then a couple died. I
thought it might be the Java Moss collecting debris and making high local
nitrates. But I cleared out almost all of it and the cories still seem to be
suffering from fin rot/barbel degeneration. I put in a new Cory from QT a few
weeks ago and it's barbels seemed to be deteriorating! Then it died. Why is
this? All the mid to top dwelling fish (including the angel) are active and
eating very well, and have nice fins. Also, the cories seem lethargic and hide
under the driftwood all day, only coming out to get food.
<Almost certainly the water quality at the bottom of the tank and especially in
the substrate is suboptimal. The reason the new Corydoras died was it couldn't
adapt to these conditions, whereas the old Corydoras have (to a degree) adapted.
Anyway, check the water circulation. Many filters do a good job of moving water
around the top of the aquarium but the water flow at the bottom can be
relatively poor. If the Java Moss is accumulating silt, then that's a good clue
that this might be the problem. Adjust the filter, or add an airstone or two at
the bottom of the tank to improve water circulation.>
Additionally, the otos like to hang out near the top of the tank. If I recall,
they used to like hanging out on the plants. But there seems to be something
bothering them because they hang near the surface and don't eat much algae. This
lead me to think there was something near the bottom that bothers them, but I
can't identify it. I do siphon the unplanted areas of the bottom every time I do
a water change.
<Sounds as if there's a lack of oxygen at the lower levels, again suggesting
poor water flow. Otocinclus are fishes of fast-flowing streams, and are
exceptionally sensitive to static water.>
Is the Eco Complete doing something strange to the fish? What could the culprit
be? Usually fin rot is associated with nitrates but I tested the water at the
bottom of the aquarium, and the nitrates were at 10 ppm! (same as the surface).
<I can't imagine the Eco Complete is the immediate problem. Are you using under
tank heating of any kind? When using deep, rich substrates, under tank heating
is recommended. Basically you thread a heater cable through the substrate, and
when this is warm, it sets up convection currents that slowly circulates the
water. Works very well and the plants thrive, but it's a little more expensive
to do than a regular heater.>
Finally, a there is a large amount of brown algae infestation in my tank. It is
covering all of my plants and the java moss too, making it a furry brown carpet.
To the best of my knowledge, it doesn't seem like there should be a lot of
algae. Is the lighting causing this? I don't have a CO2 system, and it is not
convenient for me to install one, so I was wondering if there was any other way
to combat this problem. I don't mind the algae on the glass, because I can
scrape it off, but the algae on the plants is what's bothering me.
<Brown algae -- diatoms -- are almost always a problem in [a] new aquaria and
[b] tanks with insufficient light. If your tank is more than a few months old,
then the problem is probably lack of light. Fish and snails have modest impact
on brown algae though they do eat some. Much better to boost the lighting
levels. For various reasons plants prevent algae from growing when they are
doing well. So make sure you have at least 2 Watts per gallon of water, and that
you are using the right type of light (i.e., a plant-friendly one rather than a
generic aquarium light).>
Thanks for your advice,
Alex
<Good luck, Neale>
Nitrates and Green Water
6/10/07
Hello!
<<Hello, Vicki. Tom here.>>
I've been reading through your FAQs on green water, since my tank has a
sudden and terrible case of it. All of the responses stress the importance
of testing the nitrate and ammonia levels in the tank. My question is this -
is there any way to lower ammonia or nitrate levels without increasing the
number of water changes? I'm worried that if I change the water any more
frequently, I'll destroy the beneficial bacteria and have to cycle the tank
over again.
<<Vicki, provided the water changes are performed correctly, there’s little
chance that these will harm your bio-colonies which are housed primarily in
the filter media. That said, you can also change your water too frequently
which might seem at odds with what your research has turned up. We’ll take
this up later in your post but for the time being, think in terms of the
quantity of water changed versus the frequency of the changes.>>
Here's a little background:
I have a 10 gallon freshwater tank with 4 mollies, 2 guppies, 3 tetras, a
kuhli loach, a horsehead loach, a Corydoras catfish, and a snail.
<<Off the subject just a bit, Vicki, but your ten-gallon tank is
over-crowded with incompatible species. For example, Mollies prefer hard,
alkaline water (consider these to be brackish water fish) while Guppies
prefer soft, acidic water. Same goes for your Loaches. As an aside here,
Corys are highly social little critters that really do best in groups, not
alone.>>
The PH is stable at 6.9 and the temperature is 78.
<<This isn’t too bad for any except for the Mollies.>>
Up until three weeks ago, I had a goldfish instead of the mollies. He died,
I replaced him with the mollies, and within a week, the water was cloudy and
green.
<<Skip Goldfish until you’re in a position to get a much larger tank, 30
gallons or better.>>
First, I tried reducing the lighting (the lights are now on about 1
hour/day).
<<An appropriate move here, Vicki.>>
Then I tried adding about a tablespoon of aquarium salt (replacing it
proportionally after water changes).
<<The correct methodology but unnecessary. The Cory, Guppies and Loaches
don’t appreciate salt in their water and, under different circumstances, the
proper salt to use for Mollies is Marine salt, not aquarium salt.>>
I also added plants - I now have four of them.
<<Good move for several reasons.>>
When none of that worked, I tried taping a piece of water to the outside of
the tank on one side, to reduce the small amount of sunlight that comes in.
For the past two weeks, I have been doing 20% water changes every two days.
<<Let’s pick up on this once again. The green water you’re experiencing is
the result of an algae “bloom” likely caused by an excess of nitrates and/or
ammonium in the water. (The reason for testing for nitrates is pretty
straightforward since these are largely responsible for the nutrients needed
for plants/algae to thrive. Checking for ammonia/ammonium may be a little
less obvious but ammonia (NH3) exists as ammonium (NH4) at lower pH levels.
This is also somewhat temperature-dependent but pH is the bigger factor
here. Since ammonium is also used by plants and algae – in some cases before
nitrates are – this explains why this test is also important.) You’ve got a
lot of life going on in a small environment which contributes to a
proportionate amount of waste from the fish and, potentially, uneaten food.
In a stable tank, a 20% water change once a week, or even two weeks, would
be sufficient. In your case, however, I would recommend a single, “massive”
water change as opposed to multiple, smaller changes. My rationale is that a
20% change still leaves ~80% of the suspended algae and nutrients behind.
These increase rapidly over a couple of days and you’re back at “square
one”, i.e. the reason why the smaller changes aren’t really correcting the
problem. One massive change on the order of 80%-90% will dramatically reduce
both the algae and nutrients and allow your other measures to take hold and
combat the algae growth.>>
I've changed the filter cartridge once, but left the plastic sponge in,
which is supposed to house some of the beneficial bacteria.
<<You haven’t specified the size of your filter, Vicki, but it’s
possible/probable that it’s smaller than what is needed based on your
stocking levels. Good for you, however, that you left the sponge in place.
This is where the lion’s share of the bacteria reside.>>
I've also thoroughly vacuumed the substrate. I used to have a small amount
of algae on the tank decorations and glass, but this has all died while the
green water problem continues to flourish.
<<Part of your plan is obviously working, Vicki. We just need to get rid of
the suspended stuff.>>
I admit, I haven't purchased a nitrate or ammonia test kit, yet. They seem
fairly expensive and I'm not sure how the nitrates or ammonia could be high
after all the water changes I've done.
<<You don’t need to start with an entire test kit if it’s not in the budget
right now. Individual kits for ammonia and nitrates, alone, can be purchased
from virtually any LFS in your area. It’s a good bet that you could find
these even cheaper online. As for how these compounds could still be high,
simply put, you have more going in than coming out. Algae is exceptionally
prolific and you’ve got plenty of sources of nutrition in your tank right
now.>>
If the levels do prove to be high, should I change out even more of the
water?
<<Yes, but by quantity, not frequency.>>
Won't that kill off the beneficial bacteria and cause my tank to re-cycle?
<<Not to any significant degree. Fish rid their body systems of ammonia
through specialized membranes in their gills, not through their waste. In
other words, your fish will be providing the bacteria with a pretty steady
supply of ammonia even after a large water change.>>
Thanks very much for your help!
- Vicki
<<Happy to do so, Vicki. You may want to re-evaluate the size of your
filter, as I mentioned. Within the realm of common sense, of course, it
would be pretty hard to over-filter your aquarium as you currently have it
set up. Best of luck to you. Tom>>
Brown splotches 3/13/07
I have a 55-gallon freshwater tank. Conditions okay according to dipstick.
<<Does not tell me anything. Do you have number readings?>>
I have brown stuff growing on sides of tank/on plastic plants. Is this nothing
more than brown algae?
<<Diatoms.>>
I have a "golden mystery snail" or something like that that I thought would take
care of it because it is supposed to eat algae. It has never been at all
interested. Should I purchase a different animal to consume this, or am I wrong
about it being algae?
<<Much is posted on this on WWM. Try decreasing photoperiod, lowering nitrates,
DOC’s through more water changes. ..and please use the search feature...much is
there for your use.>>
Thanks!
<<Glad to help. Lisa Brown>>
Changing rocks in an established tank - 03/10/07
Thank you so very much for your time and help with my occasional questions.
My fish and I appreciate it. Hopefully this one is a very quick one.
I'm bored with the current color of the gravel rocks in my aquarium, so I bought
enough bags of a new color to replace the old ones with. Are there any concerns
I should be aware of before making the switch; i.e.. Remove the fish temporarily
into a container while doing the change?
<<Catching on your fish may prove more stressful than working around them,
especially if it is pebbles and not cloudy. My only concern might be the amount
of your bio-filter that will be removed with the substrate. Might be prudent to
remove in smaller amounts over time.>>
When opening the bags of gravel rocks, should I wash them first?
<<Rinsing will do.>>
Should I put a new filter in my tank (old one is okay, but just want to be
safe)?
<<Not unless you want a new/additional filter.>>
Are there any additives or extras needing to be put in the water?
<<Aside from dechlorinator, no.>>
This is my first ever tank which I set up about one year ago so is well
established, no unusual deaths (not counting the live fry eaten by the parents).
Been using a product called Nitraban,
<<No need to use this in an established tank.>>
Do partial water changes regularly to keep from nitrate build up.
<<Partial water changes are key to a healthy tank. Keep it up.>>
and about once a week drop in an anti-ammonia dissolving tablet just in case.
<<This is not beneficial to your tank. Nitrifying bacteria feed on ammonia, and
your tank is well cycled, so no ammonia should be readable; these tabs aren’t
necessary.>>
The youngest fry are currently 2-3 months old -unless I have more hiding
somewhere since I keep abundant decor so everyone can hide if they want. Also,
my tank is in a room in an underground basement, so it's impossible for any
outside light to get in. I don't have a bad problem with algae, but noticed it
builds up faster the longer I have the tank light on, often for several hours
per day. Tank is by the computer and I really enjoy them, and named most of my
fish. I've read that using anti-algae formulas will do something that "starves
out oxygen" in the tank. Is this true?
<<Can be, are often hard on biofiltration, and ignore the source of the problem.
I am not a fan at all. Try limiting the hours the aquarium light is on.>>
I do have an aeration pump. I've just been cleaning the fake plants and decor
by hand and discarding the filthiest of rocks, hence a part of the reason I want
to dump the white rocks and put a new color in also. I've already read mollies
are a vegetarian type of eater, so am I right to assume it's okay to leave some
algae on plants to allow them to peck at?
<<Not strictly vegetarians, but certainly need lots of vegetation in their
diet. It is best to leave some algae for them to pick at.>>
My Corydoras I read are carnivorous and blood worms are healthy for them.
The mollies enjoy them also. Are blood worms healthy for mollies?
<<Can be part of their diet certainly. Do be sure to offer all of your fishes
as varied a diet as possible for optimum health. Lisa.>>
SK
10 gallon fish tank with algae! FW – 03/09/07
Hello,
I have a 10 gallon tank with 4 baby fry starburst platy's. I've had this tank
set up for about 4-6 wks. I've done a 25% water change last week and I took out
the contents and washed them with water, shook them out and put them back in. I
did this to clean off the algae that won't stop growing. The tank looks dirty
with this alga. It literally only took days for it to look worse than it did
before! What do I do?!
<<Likely diatoms. Lowering nitrates/phosphates/DOC’s and light will
help. Tends to lessen with maturity.>>
I'm afraid to get a pleco for fear it will eat my little babies.
<<Most Plecos are far too big for your tank, and are major waste producers,
which will not help your situation.>>
I'm also afraid to put that anti algae stuff in the tank for fear it will harm
the babies.
<<I am not a fan of such products.>>
Is there any way to treat this problem without killing the baby fry??
<<See above…and patience.>>
Thanks in advance,
DTJ
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Re: 10 gallon fish tank with algae! FW – 03/09/07
Thanks for your reply.
What are DOC's? What are diatoms?
<<Dissolved organic compounds. Diatoms are a common occurrence in tanks…nothing
to really worry about.>>
I have a water testing kit and can check it again but my last check on Feb. 25th
showed a pH of 7.6, high range pH of 8.0, ammonia of .5 ppm, nitrite of .25 and
nitrates at 0. Since this date I did a 25% water change.
<<Your tank is not even cycled yet. Get on large daily water changes and tests
until both ammonia and nitrite are ZERO. This will also help keep nitrates
down, so long as your source water isn’t introducing them. A quick test of your
tap water will tell.>>
How do I reduce what you mentioned?
<<As stated above.>>
I read that the light shouldn't be on more than 10-12 hrs per day. How much
time do you recommend the light be on?
<<If you are not growing plants, can be very few hours, for your
viewing. Timers help keep these hours consistent.>>
Thanks again, (in advance)
DTJ
<<Glad to help again. Lisa.>>
Algae and Nitrate, FW 3/4/07
Hello,
<Hi Bob, Brandon with you today.>
After 20+ years away I find myself back in this wonderful hobby.
<Welcome Back!>
There's one huge difference this time around, the internet is here!
<Times they are a-changin>
I happened to come across this site, there's so much great information
available to the aquarist today! Thanks to folks like you!!
<You're welcome. We're here for wonderful people like you!>
My girlfriend was given a 55gal. setup last year, after more careful
study I found only the tank and heater to be useable. I built a stand
(can probably use as a jack-stand for my pickup) and canopy then
purchased a Marineland Magnum350 / 2 bio-wheels, 260 watt Power-compact
light fixture with 4x65watt lights which I have 2 65 watt, 6700K
daylight and 2 55 watt color-enhance, plant grow pink lights in. The
tank is planted with about a dozen plants. I cycled with 7 Zebra danios,
always careful to not overfeed. Toward the end of the cycle when
Nitrates started to rise the algae came. I began adding my tank cleaner
fish and now have a male and female Bristlenose Pleco and 2 Otocinclus
Catfish. The lights stay on usually no more than 12 hours, normally I
cycle them so the full 260 watts are on for around 8 hours. I have a
phosphate remover additive (Ferric Hydroxide) in the canister with the
carbon . Currently the Nitrates, Ammonia and Nitrites in the tank are at
0 or not detectable, Ph is 7.0 but I just discovered the Phosphates are
1ppm(mg/L). I have done several 10% water changes in the last few weeks,
but my tap water is also 1ppm phosphates. My problem is the brown algae
choking out the fine leafed plants such as the Cabomba, Anacharis and
Micro Sword. My research on the net tells me that Nitrates and
Phosphate need to be available for algae to grow,
<Plants need these compounds too.>
I see no Nitrate in the water....? Would C02 added to the water help? I
just started adding a carbonator "Natural Aquarium Vital" from Marc
Weiss Co.
<Not familiar with it. I would leave this out though. In the long run
it should not be necessary.>
My long term goal is to have Discus fish, got to get thing "right"
first!
<Congratulations. Discus are one of my favorite fish. I have two, that
I just got to breed. I would recommend that you bring the Ph down
SLOWLY, by adding some bog wood, and Black Water extract. These fish
live ideally between 6 - 6.5. Before you do this, I would add the C02
as you were talking about. The plants will benefit from this, and it
will lower your Ph. Cut the C02 off at night though. I would also
invest in some iron supplements. These can be added to your makeup
water for water changes. Iron is essential to the development of
chlorophyll, and will help your plants tremendously. I did not see
where you mentioned how long the tank has been up. If less than two
months add the C02, and the Fe and give it some more time. See what
happens. The balance should shift to the plants. Nice Pic by the way,
but I would remove the rock, and add some drift wood, and some of the
taller plants like Java Fern and Crypt. Discus like to hide, as they
are kind of shy. Ultimately you are going to have to remove some of the
tank mates due to the adult size of discus. Mine are about nine inches
in diameter. Also for the plants check here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/groplts101.htm, as
well as here
http://www.thekrib.com. The latter has a wealth of information on
plants.>
Thanks for your time, Bob
<You are welcome, I hope that I have been of some assistance. Brandon>
Attaching a pic |
|
 |
Staghorn Algae, FW 3/3/07
Hello Crew:
I've searched your website but can't find any information specific to "staghorn
algae". Is there another name for this?
<I have seen references to Compsopogon sp. being a possible name. I'm not
really sure though, as my last search led me to an article about marine algae>
I am encountering considerable trouble with excessive growth of staghorn
algae. I have tried reducing the amount of light the tank receives and have cut
the light time to 10 hours per day. I have tried using Algumin from Tetra
(active ingredient: Simazine)
<I am not familiar with this. Some sort of algicide perhaps?> <<Yes... and
toxic... the principal ingredient in a few pet-fish and pond algae "remedies".
RMF>>
to no effect. I have tried frequent water changes and removal by hand as well
as removing infested plant leaves.
<Removing the leaves is one suggested course of action>
I do not seem to be having an impact and it is getting worse and starting to
grow everywhere. The tank has two Plecostomus and 4 Otocinclus, but they don't
seem to be eating it. The aquarium does not get exposure to direct sunlight.
<I have heard that rosy barbs (Barbus conchonius) will do the trick here, but I
cannot verify that.>
Water parameters are:
ammonia: 0 ppm
nitrite: 0 ppm
nitrate: 25 ppm
pH: 7.5
I am running out of ideas to try and combat this problem. Is there any other
course of action I can take to reduce the growth of this particular type of
algae? The tank lighting consists of two 18W florescent bulbs. One has a
10,000 K spectrum (Sylvania AquaStar) and the other is a special grow-light
(Sylvania Gro lux) with spectral peaks at about 400, 420, 550, 600 and 650 nm.
<What you have here is a nutrient imbalance that is favoring the algae. Try
increasing the level of chelated iron, free nitrogen, phosphate, potash, and
dissolved C02 in the water. Also your lighting is way less than optimal for
plants. Even if you had a 10 gallon tank you would be just scratching the
surface. A general rule of thumb is 2-4 watts per gallon. Or 30 watts per
square foot of surface area. Obviously this is going to be higher if the water
is dark due to dissolved tannins, perhaps lower depending on the species of
plant, much higher if you have swords. Try increasing the water flow in the
tank with a small powerhead or two. Read here, >
Any suggestions would be most welcome as it is becoming quite the problem.
<See above. http://aquaria.net/articles/plants/barr-dose/,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/groplts101.htm, and
http://www.thekrib.com
I hope that you find this helpful, Brandon.>
Algae 2/5/07
I will try this again - not sure why pic didn't come across - it
is in the body of the message. Anyway... do you know what type of
algae this is and how I can eliminate it?
<Ahh... is "the dreaded" "Beard" algae... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/algcontags.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> |
|
|
FW UV use, algae impact - 12/06/06
Hi.
<Greetings to you! Michelle here.>
I understand that UV will kill free floating algae.
<Yes.>
I assume that if I have algae already growing on my rocks, the UV will
not hinder it. Would this be correct?
<This is true.>
I have Tropheus that graze, so I don't want to cut down algae growth on the
rocks.
<No need to worry.>
Thank you for your assistance.
<You are welcome. -Mich>
Algae Problem 12/5/06
Hey crew, My tank has algae. How can I get rid of it?
Thanks Kyleigh
< Algae is caused by too much waste in the water and too much light. Do a 50%
water change vacuum the gravel and clean the filter. If you have live plants
then leave the lights on for no more than 10-12 hrs per day. No live plants?
Then just turn them on when you want to see the fish. Feed the fish only once
each day. Feed them only enough food so that all of it is gone in a couple of
minutes. Some algae is normal. Scrapers are available to get algae off of
glass.-Chuck>
White stuff on rocks?? Please help 11/21/06
We recently set up a 55 gal tank. At first we filled it with 5 gal
of water from our aquatic retailer and put our red claw crab in it while we were
treating our 10g tank for ick.
<Okay>
After removing him we filled the rest of the tank (with water from the
same aquatic retailer)
<? Why not water from your tap?>
added more gravel, plants, and then our lava rock. We added bio Spira
and now two day's later we noticed this white stuff (attached pictures) on the
lava rocks and going up into the filter.
<I see it>
The tank does not contain any live plant or fish. We wanted to start
adding our upside down catfish and our black ghost fish but are afraid that what
ever this is will harm them.
<Mmm, not likely... however... these two fish species are not very
compatible behavior or water quality wise... the Mochokid cat prefers hard,
alkaline water... is very "outgoing"... the Apteronotid likes much softer,
acidic conditions and is very non-competitive...>
While the red claw crab occupied the tank (only for 2 days) we only
added maybe 2 blood worms and a couple of pellets.
Our tank tests ok, everything is good except our ph and alkalinity is
just slightly low.
We have taken the rock out and are soaking it in very very hot water.
Can you tell me what it is?
<Is a mix of opportunistic algae, along with populations decomposing
organisms likely... taking advantage of the lack of predators, availability of
space, presence of food you added>
Will it overtake the tank and spread even after removing the rock and
cleaning it?
Will it hurt our fish?
<No and no>
Do we need to remove all the water and clean everything including the
filter (start over? ;( I hope not)
Is it from adding the Bio Spira?
<Again, two no's>
Im sorry to ask so many questions we just want our tank to be perfect
for our fish.
<No worries>
Thank you so so so much for your time, we appreciate it very much!!!!
Brandi
<Best for you to understand the basics of "cycling", "succession" in
new, sterile aquatic environs... Do you have test kits for ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate? Have you read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above? Do so, relax, and enjoy. Bob Fenner>
|
Re: white stuff on rocks?? Please help 11/22/06
Thank you so much for all your help and how quickly you replied!! I
read the link you sent me and it helped me understand the process much
more clearly. I had a couple of questions but I do not want to take
advantage of the help you provide. If I am asking to much please let me
know.
<Okay>
My 55 gallon has the white algae, but has not gone through any spikes
in the nitrite, do I continue to wait for this to happen or does the bio
Spira bypass the spike in the levels?
<May do so>
We only have a test for the: NITRATE, NITRITE, TOTAL HARDNESS, TOTAL
ALKALINITY, AND PH. I will get one for the ammonia this week. Should I
continue to leave the tank empty until the spikes in the levels occur
and go back down?
<I would wait a good week to see if there are any measurable amounts of
nitrogenous compounds... As the system cycles there will be accumulating
nitrate>
One more question, I was unaware that putting my upside down catfish
(Rocky)
and black ghost ("night of the living dead") together was not good.
Thank you for that information!!!
<Welcome>
They both are doing great both are very energetic great appetites for
blood worms and have amazing personalities ( my black ghost has actually
put little "Rocky" in his place and they get along great, is it ok to
keep them together if they are doing well?
<Only time can/will tell>
I would say the tank is more suitable for the black ghost but "Rocky"
zips around playing and eating, he's like a little rocket.
Again thank you so much and I am sorry to bother you, I'm sure you are
extremely busy, this is the only site that actually responded to me and
I am so happy to have found it.
Thank you!
Brandi
<Bob Fenner>
|
|
 |
FW Algae 11/19/06
Hello there:
My name is Cody and I have a couple of questions for you.
<<Hi, Cody. Tom here to answer them…hopefully. :) >>
First one is that I have a 55 FW. It’s been up and running for 4 years or so. In
the past few months I noticed some spots of dark green hair algae growing on
some of the fake plants and other items in tank. I was just wondering if it
would harm the fish or not. The fish have been in the tank for about 2 years.
<<No harm to the fish, Cody. Just an indication of excess nutrients and lighting
in the tank. The “kicker” here is that this type of algae utilizes nitrates and
phosphates, among others, which can be readily introduced into the tank via
water changes. You may want to examine any changes that you’ve made in the last
months that could account for the appearance of this algae. Has there been a
change in lighting or in the duration of lighting for the tank? Are you using
the same source of water for changes, i.e. have you changed from using RO or
RO/DI water to using tap water? Definitely a few variables at play here but, to
answer your specific question, this algae won’t harm your pets.>>
Second question is that I have a 29 FOWLR. I noticed that it has some green hair
algae growing on the fake lava rock but not on the live rock. Why is that and is
it normal?
<<In a word, competition. The micro-organisms and, yes, algae that occupy the
live rock are out-competing the green hair algae for nutrients. A similar
principle to utilizing live plants to handle algae problems by having something
in the tank that deprives the nuisance algae of what it needs to proliferate. In
your case, the hair algae is only being out-competed at the site of the live
rock and not elsewhere which is why it seems to be showing up on the fake rock.
Kind of interesting that the nutrient levels are walking such a fine line but I
don’t see anything “abnormal” about this.>>
Thanks
Cody
<<You’re welcome, Cody. Tom>>
Spring water versus well water; preventing algae growth in new tank
11/8/06
Hey guys...
<and girls - Jorie here!>
I just happened upon your site today and have spent a better part of the day
reading!
<Wonderful!>
What a great service you are doing to all us "beginners".
<I learned much of what I know from WWM...>
I currently have a 10 gal with 3 Cory cats, 1 (it said blue at the LFS, but my
research says it is a 3 spot (?) Gourami, a couple Neons and 2 black skirt
tetras. I have had this tank for almost a year (from start to current only 4
casualties-yeah!!!)
<Ummm, you aren't suggesting four fish deaths in a year is good, are you?! Many
freshwater fish live for years when kept in proper conditions...>
Anyhow, my question is NOT about my 10 gal tank, but about the 55 gal. I just
purchased.
<OK.>
I have not set it up yet, but will soon.
<Glad you are reading first.>
I have well water with (of course) a water softener system. I have never had my
well water tested, as I use bottled spring water for my little 10 gal. tank.
<Spring water is often lacking essential elements and minerals the fish
need. Better to use DI (de-ionized) or RO/DI (reverse osmosis/de-ionized water)
instead, and add back certain essential elements...>
(My brother-in-law used well water for his 30 gal.
tank and was OVERRUN with thick, green algae, changed to the bottled water, and
has not had a problem since.)
<Yes, bottled water won't have phosphates, which is likely what was present in
the well water to cause the algae, but again, there's other essential elements
missing...>
I have never had a problem with algae in my tank, in fact, do not even have any
type of "algae eater" in my tank.
<Don't need an algae eater with proper amounts of water changes, not
overfeeding, proper lighting, etc. I also like to use a filter media called
"PolyFilter" to help combat phosphates in the water.>
My problem arises here, I REALLY don't want to buy 55 gallons of spring water
PLUS extra water for regular water changes. (what will I do with all those empty
jugs!!) and I don't want to end up with all that algae. I don't (and never
have) used any treatments in my established tank, so I really don't know the
best course of action here for the new 55 gal with well water...HELP!
<I highly recommend investing in a quality RO/DI unit, such as the Typhoon III
from www.airwaterice.com. Yes, it's a bit expensive upfront, but you only have
to replace the filter cartridges approximately yearly, and the membrane once
every three years or so. I then use a combination of Aquarium Pharmaceutical's
Electro-Right and pH Adjust to add back those elements which are missing from
the purified water. Again, to combat algae, the suggestions above will likely
do the trick.>
Thanks for such a great site and any help you may provide.
Roni Knox
North Carolina
<Best of luck, Jorie, Aurora, Illinois.>
Re: Spring water versus well water; preventing algae growth in new tank
- 11/09/06
Jorie, Thanks for the suggestions!
<You're welcome.>
I will definitely take it into consideration.
<For what it's worth, we absolutely LOVE our RO/DI unit and it has truly paid
for itself in the 3 or so years we've had it. And, our algae issues have all
but disappeared...>
And I really wasn't suggesting 4 losses was a good thing, just that I am a
beginner, and expected many more than that!
<OK! Four is sure better than 44, right? Enjoy your new tank...Jorie>
Roni
Question on algae growth 9/19/06
Greetings to all of the WWM Crew! I hope this day finds all of
you as happy with life as I am.
<Ahh, thank you>
I have an odd question and, I guess, a confirmation of thought
process. We have some actively breeding cichlids; yellow labs and yellow
peacocks for now, hoping my black pembas will be next. We currently have
some labs, peacocks and Kribensis in a 30 gallon grow out tank and a yellow
lab with a large buccal pouch in a 10 gallon isolation tank until she
releases her fry.
<Sounds like a business there!>
By the time her fry will be large enough to go into the grow out
tank and not be eaten, the other fish will be large enough to head to the
LFS. Here is our dilemma. The 30 had a large amount of algae in it from
overfeeding the previous residents, which the cichlids went through like
power lawn mowers. After we empty the 30g, how can I quickly encourage a
lot of algae growth so the new fry will have an additional source of food
when we move them in?
<Mmm, I would not be so/too fastidious in scrubbing all the algae
from the glass/sides... the residual will re-populate the tank in a short
while>
The algae was so bad in the other tank that it was waving in the
current off of the sand and it took the babies less than a week to clean it
up (approx. 22 babies). If I put a good pinch of flake food in the tank
every day for a week or so, would that help or is there something additional
that I can do?
<Could offer more small foods, more frequently... but this
sounds/reads fine>
Of course, I also want to keep the good bacteria in the biological
sponges in the 2 Whisper 40 filters that we use on the tank.
<Just rinse these gingerly in tank water...>
As an additional note, the pH is 8 and the dKH is 14, which I think
might be a little too harsh for plants.
<Not all types, species...>
When was the last time you had someone ask how to create a
nuisance instead of eliminating one :-)!
<... all the time>
All of you at WWM provide an awesome service and have been very
beneficial in our endeavor to become "fish keepers" instead of "fish
havers".
<Ahh!>
My wife and I thank you as do our charges; 150g African cichlid
tank, 75g community tank with Gouramis and Rainbowfish and our grow out
tanks.
Thomas N. (Tom) Bilello
<Bob Fenner>
FW Algae ID... for a book 7/12/06
Hi Bob!
You seam to be an expert on marine algae. I don't know how much you know
about freshwater algae?
<About the same degree of paucity>
I am writing a book on freshwater aquariums and I am looking to find the
Latin names of the most common freshwater algae....
A least down to genera´s....
<Just genera>
Can you help me or can you point me in the direction of someone who might
know..?
Best Regards
Peter Petersen
Copenhagen, Denmark
<Mmm, I'd send a note to Hans Baensch in Germany here. The actual genera are
quite mixed... depend on the country in question, what they've placed
(mainly in the way of live plants) that determine what becomes dominant...
and as with marines there is "succession" in freshwater systems... Bob
Fenner>
Green Tank 7/10/06
Dear Crew,
<<Greetings, Isabel. Tom>>
I have a 20-gallon tank with only three fish in it. I have had this tank
with the Whisper filter for a long time. Everything was going smoothly
until we moved. We lived in a village and had village water. We now have
moved to a lake and have a well. The first thing we did was have the water
tested and installed a water softener. My husband and I cleaned the entire
tank because it was getting cloudy and green. We thought it was probably
due to the move and length of time since we had cleaned it after the move.
<<Might have been due to the move but seems unlikely that you would develop
a serious algae problem without extenuating circumstances.>>
Two weeks later the water is so green that you cannot see through it.
<<Hardly makes for an "attractive" aquarium, does it?>>
I bought a new filter thinking mine was too old. I now have the new and the
old filters running (they are not getting dirty) and I put in a gadget that
"blows" the water around for circulation.
<<I'm glad you didn't simply go with a new filter and discard the "old" one.
At any rate, filtration isn't the problem.>>
When I changed the water, I used the start right drops and the drops of
chlorine as I have done in the past.
<<Jungle (TM) purports that 'Start Right' dechlorinates water so, if true,
adding chlorine (not a good idea) would likely be ineffective. Your algae
"burst" is due to the nutrients in your well water. These become most
prominent in the summer months when the water warms in the lake and the
"goodies" at the bottom of the lake rise and make their way into your water
table and, hence, your well. The water softener, as you've already deduced,
don't eliminate these. In a nutshell, algae will proliferate where there is
a supply of nitrogen (such as "run-off" from lawn fertilizers - my folks
lived on a lake in Michigan), phosphorus, potassium and, of course, light.
I'd bet good money your well water has all of these...except the light.>>
I need help. I do not know what is wrong.
<<Technically speaking, Isabel, nothing is "wrong". It just isn't "right"
for aquaria purposes. I don't vouch for the efficacy of the product but
"Algone" reportedly clears up aquariums with the problem you now have.
Should you choose to use it, we'd like to hear back from you as we like to
share this information with our readers. Good, bad or indifferent. We
support products that "work" and will gladly advise against those that are
simply a waste of money.>>
Isabel
<<Hope I've been of some help. Tom>>
My 27 gallon planted tank, mis-mixed livestock, lacking bio-filtration
7/7/06
TANK: 27 gal. Fluorite + Florabase, Eheim 2222, 9W turbo twist UV, CO2
via Milwaukee regulator (daytime only), Hagan bubble ladder as diffuser,
Coralife 55x2 (4 wpg, often just burning one light to reduce algae threat),
LED lunar lights
FAUNA: 3 Panda Cory, 2 Dwarf Oto, 2 Yoyo loaches, 1 Clown Pleco, 1 Dwarf
Gourami (removed from tank to 5 gallon because acting aggressive),
2 platies, 2 mollies and 4 guppies
FLORA: Anubias Nana, Hygro Tropic Sunset, Crypt Wendtii Gr/Br, Water Hyssop,
Dwarf Crypt, Rotala rotundifolia, Hygro corymbosa, Taiwan moss,
Stargrass, Riccia, Cuba, Pearl Grass, Weeping Moss, Microsword and much,
much more.
CHEMISTRY:
pH 6.1
<A tad low>
No2 0.3
<Should be zip>
kH 20 ppm
GH 60 ppm
nHh3 0.6
<Dangerous>
Po4 0.3
<Too high>
Routine 50% H2O changes weekly.
Bottled fertilizer applied weekly.
QUESTIONS:
(1) The female molly just gave birth to 30 fry (+ 5 stillborns). I bought
fry food and feed twice daily (before and after work). Apart from
keeping their fry cage clean, what more should be done to help improve them
mature?
<... need harder, more alkaline water... Have you read on WWM re the
nutrition of Mollienesia?>
(2) The mollies and guppies (unfortunate gifts from a well-meaning friend)
need salt. But my panda Cory's don't like salt.
Which suffers? Do I add salt for half the tank, or deprive them of salt to
appease the other half of tank inhabitants? Which need is greater?
<Yours... for another system to separate these two>
(3) The dwarf gourami is aggressive with all other fish. Is he ok in a 5
gallon tank or should I find him a new home? Or is there
possibility that his aggressiveness will subside?
<How many females do you have present?>
(4) My ammonia seems high.
<It is... deleteriously so>
There is no fish or plant rot that I can see. There is blue-green algae on
the glass between the tank and substrate which I keep disrupting by trying
to remove by scraping
clean. Apart from water changes, is there a way to reduce the ammonia?
<... You likely have inadequate provision for/of biological filtration...
Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwammfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Julianne McCaffrey
FW Cyano in a Service Acct. 7/6/06
I have a tank that I maintain that has really bad Cyano. It's a lightly
planted 55g tank. It's got 260w of new (several months) PC lighting -
Coralife, a new Eheim canister, a Maxi-1200 for flow, a few rosy barbs, a
couple of angels and a few tetras. They replaced an older acrylic
tank with a new glass one. When I put the new tank in I replaced most of
their deco and all of the gravel. I did a 75% water change at that
time as well. Since then I have been doing 50% water changes every two with
RO/DI water every two weeks (for two months now), and manually (by
hand) exporting all the really thick Cyano. I know my water is clean - I
make it myself and use it in all my store tanks which stay pristine.
They (the tank owners) swear up and down that they've cut back on their
feeding, and they're using NLS pellets.
<NLS we'll take as Pablo Tepoot's New Life Spectrum... a fairly "clean"
food>
For the life of me I can't figure out where it's even getting the nutrients
to grow, but this Cyano is THICK, and I can't kick it. Nutrient control has
always worked for
me and I'm just baffled. Thanks for the input.
Scott
<Mmm... well... because you are in the trade, know what you're doing, and
this BGA has been so persistent and dominant, I would likely remove the fish
livestock and either "nuke" this system and all its gear with a bleach
solution, or even go the Erythromycin/antibiotic route. If it were you/my
home system, I would try massive water changes, adding some aggressive live
plant/s (likely floating...), some source of alkaline earth material (to
"feed" the vascular plant/s). Bob Fenner>
Freshwater Algae Bloom 6/5/06
I have a 75 gallon freshwater tank, ammonia, and nitrite are 0, and nitrates
are 20-40,
<A bit high...>
My water is cloudy most of the time.
<... insufficient filtration, circulation?>
I used a diatom filter for 3 days and it cleared up nice,
<A "band-aid">
but the diatom filter matter was plugged solid with green algae. I have some
ferns in the tank and also a lot of lighting, 2 65watt dual bulbs
10000k/6700k and 2 65 watt actinic 460/420k.
<Not this>
My actinics are on at 7am, and at 9am the 10000k/6700k are on. The
10000/6700 turn off at 8pm and the actinics are off at 10pm and then the
lunar lights are on all night. I would try an algae remover but I have some
crustaceans. Would using CO2 help??
<Possibly>
Will this bloom make my fish sick??
<Could>
Thanx for your help.
Bob
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/algcontags.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
FW algae problem 5/28/06
<<Hello, Sharon. Tom here today.>>
I'm in the process of setting up a 75gal freshwater tank which will
eventually house 5 fancy goldfish. I've had the tank set up for about a
month (no fish) because I want to let it cycle correctly.
<<Well done! Love to hear this.>>
I have the lighting on a timer to come on twice a day for about 5 hours in
the a.m and 3 in the p.m. I think because of this I now have a bad green
algae problem.
<<Not likely a contributor to an algae problem, Sharon. Where lighting is an
issue, it's generally because someone is leaving their lights on for periods
in excess of 10-12 hours at a time. If your tank is getting direct sunlight,
however, this can be an issue.>>
It's all over my plastic plants and the one ornament I have I'm constantly
scrubbing the walls of the tank to keep it at bay. I bought Algaefix which
really hasn't fixed anything!
<<Toss this product out. We never advise the use of chemicals to treat algae
problems since they can/will be a detriment to other life in the tank. One
suggestion, if you aren't already doing this, would be to follow up the
"scrub-down" with a healthy water change to help remove the algae that
you've dislodged from the tank walls.>>
I would like to know if I have to tear down the whole tank and start over or
what treatments would you suggest I use to finally resolve this problem.
<<Strongly consider adding live plants to the tank, Sharon. These will tend
to out-compete the algae for nutrients and, essentially, starve the stuff
out. Also, be aware that algae growth is typically self-limiting in that it
almost always shows up in new tanks only to disappear or, at the very least,
become far less problematic. On a final note, when you do introduce your
fish to the tank, feed them appropriately and keep the bottom of your tank
clean of uneaten food/detritus. These contribute to nitrates, in particular,
which lend themselves to supporting algae growth.>>
Thanks for a great site.
Sharon
<<Good luck with your new tank and new pets, Sharon. Tom>>
Attn: Bob Fenner, Variety of questions... on Bettas.... health... and
snails... comp.... and algae 5/2/06
Hi Bob (if you don't mind the familiarity),
<Not at all... is my name...>
Thanks for your reassurances. Terrence and Edmund are both doing fine, in
fact Edmund's fins look a bit less curly. I did get Terrence to try
bloodworms and he loves them.
<Few Bettas can resist these>
The patchy white spot hasn't spread, though I haven't seen him blow any
bubble nests lately.
With more frequent water changes (10% 2x a week, 40% once a week out of a
2.5 gallon tank) the water is still 0 ammonia, now 0 nitrites, and the
nitrates are hovering around 20 ppm. I've been feeding less-- skipping a
day occasionally, and when I do feed, 2-3 Betta pellets with sometimes a bit
of bloodworm, or sometimes just a bloodworm. Still too much?
<Not likely>
I have a good number of Malaysian burrowing snails-- I'd hazard a guess of
10.
<Soon to be more>
Except for two old ones of maybe 3/4 of an inch, they're all about 1/4
inch or smaller. I used to have a large population of small Ramshorns, but
not long after the move to this new tank, the Ramshorns have gradually died
off except for one, whose shell is covered with white scratches. (I'm it's
because my water is soft and slightly acidic. All the Ramshorns started
looking that way as time went on, though the burrowing ones haven't shown
any shell problems.) I was wondering if the die-off may have raised my
nitrate levels, and if the waste of the current population could be
contributing. The snails came in with plants from my LFS (and then
proceeded to multiply); I knew they were coming and kept them in hopes
they'd help keep the tank clean. If you think they should go, I'll remove
them via blanched zucchini or something similar.
<Might want to just do this occasionally to keep the numbers in check>
I've also had some small smudges of algae on my tank walls, and true to your
word in the snail article, the snails aren't eating it. It's not very
noticeable unless it's right between you and the tank light. It showed up
after I added aquarium salt-- any connection?
<Likely so>
There is also some green on my filter floss where it's moist but not
underwater, as well as an iridescent sheen on the surface of my water. The
filmy iridescence has always been there and I take out as much as I can with
water changes. The green growth I've seen before. Any advice for getting
rid of any of the above stuff?
<Posted... see WWM re>
I have been keeping my light on too long (about 14 hrs) so I'm setting up
a 10-hr timer, and I'm assuming the growth has to do with the high nitrates
as well. I scraped some of the algae off the walls... should I go after the
green stuff on the filter floss?
Thanks again,
Terrence's mom
(attached is my last email)
<Be chatting, reading. Bob Fenner>
I Have read that high nitrates can cause unwanted algae blooms...
4/9/06
<Can>
I have a 37 gallon and a 10 gallon tank. In the 37 there is A huge goldfish,
1 gourami, 4 platys, 2 Corys, 2 angelfish.
<Goldfish not good to keep with tropicals...>
My nitrite is finally down to about 0 for about 3 months now but the problem
is my nitrates. They are so high!
<How high?>
Same in my 10 gallon which has 7 zebra danios and 6 neon tetras. I have no
clue how to get my nitrates down.
<... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwnitrates.htm
and the linked files above>
I do excessive water changes - about 20% every weekend. I have been at this
forever and they are still really high! I read that plants may
use nitrates for something (can't remember what) so I added some potted
plants (in little yogurt containers with soil and rocks on top) and they are
actually growing little roots!
<Good... takes a while>
I added them into my 10 gallon tank so I could experiment because it is
easier to take care of the plants because the tank is small and I can easily
move things around. Also, the 10 gallon is shallow so I don't think I need
exact and strong lighting because the light is so close and so strong for a
10 gallon tank, right?
<Mmm, not necessarily>
I have just some 15 watt regular white bulbs that my LPS sold to me. These
are my first MAJOR tanks, I had little things when I was little, now I'm 15.
My mom has a successful 250 gallon pond in our backyard and I understand
that algae is natural, but I have the ugly brown stuff when she has nice
green fluffy stuff. Should I add more plants because on one of the FAQ sites
of yours I read that plants use about the same nutrients as algae.
<Possibly... read>
I also read the brown stuff will go away on it's own but it has been about 4
months since it has come... I set the 37 tank in the end of December.
How long will it take for this stuff to as you said "go away on it's own?"
<Maybe never>
Will more plants reduce the time?
<Likely so>
The plants also look really nice when they are alive! I always went to
PetSmart and got plants and brought them home and put them in my like 1
gallon bowl for my fish when i was like 6 and they always died! If you could
email me back that would be great - this is the first time i have used your
site so I do not know I you post my question and your answer and I have to
go searching for it. Thanks! - Marc
<Read my young friend. Bob Fenner>
FW Blue Green Algae Problem - 03/25/2006
Hello, I am currently enjoying your web forums under the name (Bmage29). I
had posted a post on suggestions on how to rid my 55 gallon FW community
tank of hard dot algae, but got little/no response. I have had the tank for
three years or so, and have noticed the algae at the end of it’s first
year. I easily scraped it of, and only a small almost foggy imprint of
where the algae was remained. Today the algae has rapidly developed along
the corners of the tank right next to the silicone. I am currently using
the Kent Scrapers and a magna-float algae scrapper and having very little
success. I have read that the use of a razor blade will work, but I fear I
will scratch the glass in the process. If I try to clean using the Kent
scrapers, it will occasionally slip and take off some silicone. Do I need
to fix what breaks off? Are there any other ways to get rid of this algae??
I will readily try any suggestions since the tank is my display and I have a
major family event in a few months. The last thing I want them to see are
the green corners of the tank.
< This blue-green algae can easily be removed with a single edged razor
blade on a glass tank. On the silicon it then becomes a different story.
These algaes are usually found on tanks that have been set up awhile. I
suspect it is a combination of an excessive nutrient and old lighting. I
would recommend that you rub the corners with and algae pad to remove as
much of the algae as you can. Then do a 50% water change, vacuum the gravel
and clean the filter. Then change the light bulb(s). As florescent lighting
gets older it changes and loses some intensity. These weaker lights
sometimes promote these type of algaes. I would also recommend that you
increase the volume of water when you do your water changes or do them more
frequently. Siamese algae eaters and some species of Plecos help control
this stuff too.-Chuck>
What is this black stuff? - 03/11/2006
I have used your site many times and have found an abundance of useful
information, but I can't seem to find anything for my particular problem. (This
may be due to the fact that I'm not completely sure *what* my problem is.)
<Or not unlikely that there is not much re posted... will never be "finished">
Anyway, I have this black "pepper-y" looking stuff covering the bottom of one
of my tanks. (This particular tank has been a handful recently.) I recently
had a bacterial infection which was treated with Maracyn as per package
instruction.
<Ah, a good clue>
A few days after treatment, I noticed these black spotty grains covering the
gravel and plants (artificial, by the way). I removed all of the fish to
another tank seeing as how I don't know if this stuff is dangerous.
<Not generally in systems with good maintenance...>
My question is, what is this stuff, and how do I get rid of it?
<Likely a type or types of blue green et al. algae. Will "go" in time with your
system re-centering itself... You can "speed up" the process by doing extra
frequent partial water changes, using chemical filtrants (hence removing
chemical food)...>
I don't mind tearing down the tank, but I'm not sure if I should throw out all
of the decorations and sterilize the filter system, or if this is something that
I can control without doing so.
<Is>
The tank is currently empty, as I am not sure if it poses a threat to the
fishies.
<Some, but not much. There are some algae-eating animals, like many "Plecos"
that can be negatively effected, but most fishes, no>
Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. Could this be a strain of
algae, another form of bacteria, or something else entirely? Again, thank you,
and kudos on such a wonderful site!
-Mandy
<I would leave off with a total tear down here if you have time, patience...
allow the "good" microbes (they were harmed by the Maracyn/antibiotic) to
re-establish themselves, add the chemical filtrant and all should settle itself
in your favor in a few to several weeks. Bob Fenner>
Rust colored deposit... FW 2/6/06
Thank you for your response. all but one neon are now gone.....but the
harlequins are fine. The pleco will be getting a new home soon (getting too
big). Any thoughts on what the rust colored deposit is?
thanks
Chris
<Algae, likely mostly diatoms... see WWM... Bob Fenner>
One Out of Four Tanks With An Algae Problem - 2/4/2006
My parents in the Philippines have 4 flower horns each in a separate 20
Gallon Aquarium but there is this one particular flower horn that within a day
of cleaning the tank the water turns green and streaks of green (is this
algae??)
< Probably.>
can also be noticed on the base of the tank. They have tried replacing
half of the water of the tank to almost 3 times in a week but the problem seems
to be persistent. The tank has a pump & an overhead filter but this
doesn't seem to help. The fishes are fed with 'Grand Sumo' - the brand
name of the flower horn fish food they've been feeding the 4 flower horns for
almost a year now. They don't have any problems with the 3 other tanks but
only with this one. Do you have any suggestions or answers with this kind
of problem? Thank you so much in advance and hope to hear from you soon.
< Check the water in all four tanks for nitrates. If the readings are all the
same and the filtration is all the same then the problem is indirect room
lighting. Light from an adjacent window or lamp is probably the answer. remove
or block the light source and the algae should match that of the other three
tanks.-Chuck>
Sudden Death of Fish, Heating Issues
I have a 10 gallon tank, heated. I did a partial water test today and
here's the results:
pH - 7.2, Ammonia - 0, Nitrites - 0, Nitrates - 40 - 80ppm (too high but since
I just did a water change (25%) last week - should I do another one?
<Yes... I would do "serial" water changes (once a week here) of about 25% every
week until your nitrate reads below 20 ppm., and look into means to restrict its
accumulation. These are gone over on WWM>
Will all these changes stress out my fish?)
<Possibly... an issue of balance, choice... of which is more stressful>
Tankmates are: 1 male black molly, 1 "rotund" sunset fire platy
(she's figured out to hang out underneath the fry net during their
feeding times and to eat the fry food as it sinks), 3 SF platy fry, and a GAE.
<Mmm, a CAE?>
This morning I noticed my tank was down to 77º (I always keep it at 80). I
fiddled with the heater some and before long it was up to 79 again (whew - no
broken heater). Anyways - I lost a SF platy (the "skinny one") today. It was
just lying in the bottom of the tank. No injuries or anything that I could
see. I'm guessing the temperature change is what did it in.
<Maybe a minor contributing "cause", but not the sole contributor here>
The heater I have is a fairly cheap one from Wal-Mart. Could you recommend a
more reliable brand?
<Look to Ebo-Jager, the Aquarium Systems products lines...>
I prefer the internal/submersible ones as they fit inside a decorative "log"
that also holds the filter.
<Me too>
Also - my GAE has begun chasing the remaining fish around.
<Ahhh... time to remove, trade this animal in>
The GAE is constantly scouring the tank (day or night) but if the other fish
swim too close he'll chase them. I've read on your site that he may grow up
large enough to do them harm.
<Yes>
I feed him algae pellets every now and again but the other fish eat them first
so I don't know how much good that does. He's not very big (1.5" or so) and
he seems to be keeping the tank fairly clean - how much should I feed him?
<You can try bits of blanched terrestrial vegetables... which won't foul the
water... but, as stated, I would remove this animal>
Finally - last question (sorry to pester but you guys are so darned helpful!)
my littlest platy fry is acting weird. She sits on the bottom of the fry tank
(mesh) and barely moves. If I jiggle the net a bit she'll wriggle around but
I'm thinking she may have a swim-bladder issue as she really can't seem to get
off the bottom of the tank. Please advise.
Thanks so much for any/all help - you guys rule!!! :D
~~ Jill ~~
<Likely environmental and/or genetic influences at play here. I would not
act/treat the system overtly. Bob Fenner>
Nitrifying Bacteria Doing Their Job 12/24/05
I was wondering if you could help me.
I have a fresh water tank with under 10 mid size fish.
I am pumping the water fairly fast into a (vertical) plastic bottle with
holes cut in it filled with bio balls and some white filter cotton material.
the water also goes through a mechanical filter (sponge) first, and I
replace about 20% of the water once a week and clean a quarter of the balls
once every 2 weeks. However, algae is growing like crazy in my tank...there is
not too much
light either. Do you think this is because my bio balls have become a nitrate
factory?
<Check the nitrates. I am sure they will be high. Filters catch the waste and
break it down from toxic ammonia and nitrites down to less harmful nitrates.
They do not remove the nitrates. These must be removed or diluted with water
changes or by using live plants. You can get ahead of the game by cleaning the
filter often, vacuuming the gravel while doing a water change, and by feeding
your fish once a day. Fed them only enough food so that all of it is gone in two
minutes. Ring out the sponge too. This should help.-Chuck>
Goldfish, Algae, and Tankmates - II - 11/25/2005 (Um.. it's 12/2/05)
Thanks for all of the information!
<Sure thing.>
I just have one more question.
<Okay.>
The algae on the rocks has spread to the plastic plants and tank decor. Is this
harmful or just a "cosmetic" problem?
<Mm, mostly cosmetic.... but could be an indication of an overabundance of
nutrients (nitrate, phosphate....)>
What can I do to get rid of it??
<Read, on WWM, about controlling algae - there's a lot of info in the Freshwater
Plant section as well as the Freshwater section.>
Thanks again!!
<You bet!>
Amanda
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Algae Eater With Guppies - 10/17/2005
Hi,
<Hello.>
I have a 36 gal tank with guppies and live plants. I have had some algae growth
on my plants and hoped you might suggest a good fish to add to my tank that will
eat algae on the plants but is safe to keep with guppies and their fry. One of
the people at the LFS I use a lot suggested Otocinclus.
<A very effective, but very sensitive fish.>
I've also read about using Plecos, but that they can damage plants if they are
large.
<Ancistrus "bushynose" plecs are a good choice, and stay under 5" roughly.>
The algae on the plants appears to be mostly green hair algae. There is some on
the glass and a little on the substrate that appears to be more of a green
slime. Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
<You might consider shrimp of genus Caridina or Neocaridina.... the
"algae-eating" shrimp, Caridina japonica, and the "cherry" shrimp, Neocaridina
denticulata sinensis v. red, are both readily available in the hobby now and
excellent consumers of algae. Not to mention cute!>
Thanks, -Rob
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Trout Pond, BGA, illiteracy 7/27/05
Hi there, I was just on a website where I found your name and I
<The personal pronoun "I" is capitalized>
was kind of
curious to know if you knew much about Blue Algae, And the effects on
rainbow trout,
<A bit>
I have a trout pond in Alberta, Canada that is stocked with
about 400-500 fish and I recently noticed a problem with blue algae on the
shore,
<... the color may have nothing to do with...>
the pond is aerated and is fairly large but now I have nothing but
dead fish. What Are your thoughts and how can I fix this problem so it
doesn't happen again. Dan
<... you need to buy a microscope... read re identification... easy to do. And,
yes, can be quite toxic... easy to avoid in most settings... some bits re this
posted on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Algae on Rocks 7/18/05
Hi, I'm new to the hobby , and I am having a problem with excessive algae on
my lace rock, I asked the question at a local pet store how to solve this
problem, the expert at this particular store informed me that I should soak the
lace rock in a heavy concentration of bleach solution over night and then rinse
it in the morning for ten minutes then throw it back in. Do you think this is a
good idea or not, I'm a little concerned about my discus and live plants.
Thank-you George
< This is good solid advice and will work well. The key is to rinse it very well
before putting it back in the tank.-Chuck>
FW Green water
I have a 180 gallon tank and it has been up for 2 years. 2 days ago the
water turns green like lime green and is very cloudy. I don't know what's going
on. I changed the carbon and sponge and poly filter in the sump and have a large
skimmer running. I changed half the water yesterday and i look at it today and
its better than yesterday but still cloudy and still green. What is this and
what do i do? Hows it caused?
>> The green water is caused by a free floating algae. The source is likely a
change in lighting conditions, perhaps your tank is getting more sunlight than
usual, or you have changed the artificial light. Best way to get rid of this is
complete darkness for a week or two, coupled with 50% waterchanges every 4 days
or so. You can use a blanket - with the lights off - and keep the tank dark. The
algae will die off, so you will have to be sure to do the water changes.
Good Luck, Oliver
Bubble algae?
Hi, I've just been to the Roman Baths at Bath, and noticed some floating
green bubbles in the water, fairly spread out. I think I noticed about four, but
I wasn't really searching for them. Anyway, the bubble was mostly above the
water and there was a hair-like thing trailing from it. It always seemed to have
a "forward" motion, as the "tail" swayed and waved behind and beneath the bubble
as it moved, as if the hair were propelling it. It seemed fairly obvious
nonetheless that the bubble thing wasn't moving on it's own accord.
I could try to describe the size but it would not be accurate at all.
<Smaller than a breadbox? Larger than Czechoslovakia?>
I was thinking it might be one of those ones that floats until it can attach
itself to a rock, as there seemed to be some of that sort around the edges in
the corners, but something like that also sounds like it should cover more area
unless the heat keeps it in check (I doubt the Baths are cleaned...). I have no
picture and cannot find one online. Any idea what it is? Thanks a lot.
-Jen-
<No clue. Bob Fenner> Green Water
Hi. I received a 6.6 gallon plastic aquarium for my birthday, but I seem to
have a problem keeping it clean. The water turns green within a week,
put new filter cartridge in and after a week it's pretty green. I tried
the changing 20% of water, it makes no sense to me. I use a bubbler, I
have upgraded to a better filtration system. I only have 2 swordtails in
it, is this a problem? One pet store told me this is natural process.
This is very confusing to me, my mother always had an aquarium & her
water was never green!
I don't get any joy out of looking a nasty looking fish tank, when I go
to the pet store and they have a hundred fish in 10 gallon tanks &
always bright & sparkling water! I also have a Betta in a huge jar & a
smaller tank with 3 guppy's. I am already losing interest as I can't
seem to get the problem corrected and I seem to get a different story
each time I speak to the pet store. It always costs me more money and
I'm not seeing any results! Would I be better off with different fish in
it? Is using a plastic tank causing the problem, would I be better off
buying a glass tank? Any help would be appreciated, thank you. LLG
<Continue with the water changes and reduce feeding and the time the
lights are on. It will clear. Adding plants will also help. The green,
free floating algae you have is not uncommon in a new tank. It is part
of the normal cycling process. The algae is feeding on the nutrients in
your water. Water changes and reduced food and light will starve it out.
Don>
Hey Crew (Diatom or Cyanobacteria problem)
Hey Crew
<Yo!>
I have a buddy who has a real problem, and a real fish problem.
<Fishaholics Anonymous... trade one crutch for another I say!>
I told him to email you guys, because you haven't steered me wrong with my
marine setup, but he asked me to do it, and please direct me to any links if you
have already answered this question.
<Will definitely do>
Here are the specs
55 Gallon Long
Crushed Coral Substrate
2 Emperor 400s
Water Quality Superb
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0
11 African Cichlids
Large Pieces of Slate and Granite for the aquascaping
Weekly 30% water changes
Here's the problem: My buddy continually fights with a red substance that sticks
to everything. When you put your finger on it and wipe away it just disappears
like dust, but returns in a few hours. First of all what is this substance (We
have been reading and we think its Cyanobacteria.)?
<I think you're likely correct>
Our LFS told my friend to treat the substance with EM tablets for a few days,
and then do a water change. Is this a recommended strategy for this type of
problem?
<Negative... Erythromycin will not "cure" the root cause/s here. Don't stoop to
antibiotic use...>
Do you have any other suggestions to take care of this substance?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above>
Could it be the granite or slate?
<Not likely... not a source of nutrient... and the hardness and alkalinity
they're adding is of benefit>
Could it be the water source?
<Always a factor>
The reason this perplexes us is that he has another 10 gallon tank that has a
very large cichlid in it and the substance came and went away, and has not
reared its ugly head since the inception of the tank.
<This does happen... perhaps a better "microbial mix">
Please advise when you get a chance
Thank you, and always in awe of your genius,
Eric Ross
<Well, the thanks I'll gladly take... Bob Fenner> Brown Algae, Green
Algae, Freshwater Algae
Hi all! After checking the search as well as the forum I can't seem to
find an answer to my question. First a background:
Tank size--50gallon set-up for month with holey rock and some Val's.
Fish--15 juvenile Peacocks and an Oto
Parameters:
Ammonia--0
nitrite--0
nitrate--20ppm
PH--between 7.8 and 8.4
GH--300ppm
KH--100ppm
My problem is that I'm not only getting brown algae, (told this is
normal in new tanks), but also what I can only assume is brown hair
algae. There is some green algae starting to grow but I'm more concerned
with the hair. Any suggestions/comments? Thanks! I've found your site to
be very helpful in all my fish endeavors! :)
<Most algae are caused by excessive nutrients. Your holey rock from
Texas is nothing more than limestone leaching minerals into the water
and feeding the algae. The Oto will not like the hard water generated
from the minerals in the water. Get some Africans that will eat the
algae and like the same water as your peacocks. Try and find some Ps.
saulosi. They are pretty and not very aggressive.-Chuck> Brown Hair
Algae - II
Thank you Chuck! This is my first try at cichlids after years of fresh and
salt aquariums. I knew the Holey rock would give off minerals but didn't
consider that they might be the cause of the algae. Is there anything,
besides the African, that I can do to prevent, or at least slow the
growth in the future?
<After a while the minerals will leach out and not be as bad and the
algae will subside on its own. Common cheap Plecos will work but will
get large and have to traded in occasionally.>
As for the Oto, I'll put him in another tank where he'll be better off.
I wasn't quite sure if he would be alright or not in this one. Thanks
again for the advice! You're all wonderful!
< Moving him to another aquarium was the right thing to do.-Chuck>
Green Water
I have a 55 gal freshwater tank that has been setup since January. It has
lots of plants I don't know all the names, but they are all doing well and
growing. In the last two weeks the algae bloom has gotten worse I have been
doing water changes weekly 10 to 15 gals. Lately with the algae problem Twice a
week. I last did a water change on Wed. today Sunday the tank is so green that
you can't see the plants in the back. The problem started two weeks ago when the
10,000k coral reef light burned out after two months. I replaced it with a full
spectrum 65,000k light. I also have a aquarium plant light on the tank. Both
lights are 4FT and on 12 Hours a day. Nitrates, nitrites, ammonia are all at
zero. Phosphates are high at 5. I put a Phos-Zorb pillow in last week but it
hasn't helped. The fish are 4 dwarf Gouramis, 2 Bettas Male and female, 2
tetras, 2 green catfish, 1 spotted catfish,1 panda catfish, 1 angelica catfish,
2 Siamese algae eaters, 1 giant danio. I also stopped the CO2
that I was putting in using the yeast method at the same time figuring it was
contributing to the algae problem. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Would a
product like Algone help?
<I'm not a fan of chemical cures. And this type of green water outbreak is
fairly common in new tanks. Anything that reduces the amount of food in the
water will starve it out. Including increased plant growth. I think your best
course of action is a big water change. Enough to get some light down to your
plants. Then a series of smaller daily water changes, 10 to 15 gallons, until
the water clears. Between the water changes and increased plant growth you
should clear in a week or so. Don>
FW Red Fungus
I have had a fish tank for about six months now, and got a light to put in
the tank at Christmas. Since then a layer of red fungus has formed on the
stones. I clean the tank every 4 - 6 weeks, and change only 20 - 30% of the
water as I was advised by my local pet shop, AQUARIUS. Since Christmas I have
had seven dead fish, five Neon Tetras which I got in October and were fine until
Christmas, and two Corydoras, which, as with the Neons had been fine. Both
breeds I have kept successfully before now. Does the red fungus have and part in
the death of my fish???
<You are correct here... this is no doubt a "Blue Green Algae"... and is at
least indirectly linked to your fish losses... That is to say, whatever the
conditions are that have allowed/favored the BGA have also contributed to their
demise. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the Related FAQs (linked above). Bob Fenner>
Fish poisoned with algicide/clarifying agent
Hi there. I used a product called Accu-clear in my tank, which was going
green with an algae bloom. It had 2 of my breeding discus in it. Both discus
instantly got sick and one to the point where it was lying on the bottom of the
tank and gasping for air. Can you help me and give me some information on what I
can do to help this fish?
<Change the water IMMEDIATELY... as much as you have good water (about the same
chemistry, temperature) on hand. Increase aeration... Bob Fenner>
Algae Problems
Help. I just added some No More Algae to my fish tank to try and get rid of
the algae growing in it. I just re-read the bottle and noticed that I was
supposed to remove the carbon while using this. I've now removed the Whisper
Bio-Bag from my filter. How long do I leave the Biofilter Bag out of the filter?
If I take out the filter my tank won't be clean and the fish won't be able to
breathe. I am new at this and don't want to kill my kids fish.
Please reply soon. Linda
< Some algae is a normal part of every aquarium and is to be expected. Chemicals
may treat the symptom but the problem will return. If algae is a problem then
you need to kick up the tank maintenance. I would recommend a 30% water change
while vacuuming the gravel. Clean the filter by rinsing the bag out with a high
pressure garden hose and replace the bag. Feed only once a day and only enough
food so that all of it is gone in two minutes. There are also many algae eating
fish that do a great job. Ask your local fish store for suggestions on which
ones will suite your needs. Weekly water changes of 25% should really cut down
on the algae. If bright light is a problem from a nearby window then cover that
side of the tank with paper to block out the light.-Chuck> |
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