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FAQs on
Amazon River Biotopes
Related Articles:
Biotopes -
Part 1 by Alesia Benedict,
Biotopic Set-Ups,
Aquascaping for Beginners; Twenty Tips for
Realistic Aquaria by Neale Monks,
Aquascaping,
Adventures in Aquascaping by Timothy S. Gross
pH, alkalinity, acidity, Treating
Tap Water, Freshwater Aquarium Water Quality,
Freshwater Maintenance,
Related FAQs: FW
Biotopic Presentations, Freshwater Community,
N. American Natives, &
Treating Tap Water for Aquarium Use, pH,
Alkalinity, Acidity, Freshwater Algae Control,
Algae Control, Foods, Feeding, Aquatic
Nutrition, Disease, |
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Planning an Amazon setup;
some questions – 10/22/09
Hi Crew,
<Hello,>
Finally setting up a tank again after about 5 years with no fish. It's
good to be on WWM again --- I've missed your excellent resources. I'm in
the planning stages for an Amazon habitat focused on small tetras. I'm
also trying to use the gear I have to minimize buying new stuff.
<Fair enough.>
I have a choice between a 55 gallon "tall" tank with 576 sq. inches of
surface area or a 46 gallon tank with 720 sq. inches surface area. More
water vs. more surface area. Of course I want more fish; but which tank
would serve small tetras better?
<There's really not much in it either way. "Tall" tanks can't hold as
many fish as "wide" tanks of the same volume, but the extra volume of
water in the 55 gallon tank means water chemistry and water quality
issues will be less. So it's six of one, half a dozen of the other. If
this was me, I'd get the 55 gallon tank assuming cost was the same, but
would simply be careful about how many fish I added to the tank.>
I'm planning to build the environment around a school of Cardinal Tetras
(love them; have done well with them in the past.) The advice with
Cardinals is always "lots of plants" but the actual Amazon seems to be a
little light on the plants according to Neale.
<Something like that, yes. A lot of the Amazon is either seasonally
under water (flooded forest habitat, with marsh rather than truly
aquatic plants)
or else simply open sand with no plants of just floating plants. So
things like Amazon swords actually spend half the time above the
waterline, in marshy ground, only being covered with water for a few
months.>
Do Cardinals really do well with subdued light and rocks/driftwood?
<Yes.>
I was planning to do only low-light plants if any, because I only have
about 80 watts of light with my current equipment.
<Try this: lots of bogwood for sure, dark substrate or silica sand (this
latter is actually 100% authentic), and then floating plants for shade.
Lilies for example look fabulous, and make good use of limited lighting
because their leaves are at the surface. Floating Amazon Frogbit would
be another great addition, if you wanted some greenery. They have long,
long
roots that form a wonderful midwater habitat for tetras, and many tetras
actually spend their entire lives under the roots of floating plants.>
I've done well maintaining an undergravel filter in the past, planning
to use it again. (Obviously I'll be potting any plants.) How is reverse
undergravel for South American fish?
<Just fine.>
My first choice of substrate is some fine black gravel, which worked
with traditional- flow UG in the past. (Can't remember if I bought this
stuff from Tideline, but it looks just like it.) I love the dark
background, but also have some silica sand (too fine for UG) and some
"natural" color fine gravel that looks like this, if those are better
choices.
<Sounds cool. Floating plants obviously couldn't care less about UG or
Reverse-UG filters; lilies are a bit more finicky, but in pots, they
should be happy *if* you stick a fertiliser pellet into the root ball
every month or two.>
UG then will be my main biofilter and I'll leave a cheesy Top Fin 60 HOB
running for a little additional filtering and for specialty media if
needed. For weekly maintenance I do 10% water changes and stir 1/3 of
the gravel bed with a Magnum 350 running to clean up the gunk. Would I
be better off just using the Magnum as the main filter? I've always
thought of them as vacuum cleaners more than permanent bio filters. For
that matter should I just set up a couple sponge filters and put them
behind a rock?
<If you wanted. A properly maintained UG should be fine though.>
Those have worked well for me also, but I've only used them in small
tanks.
<They can work well in big tanks.>
In addition to a dozen (or more?) Cardinals I'm considering Pristella
tetras, Rummynose, Black Phantoms, and especially Emperor Tetras. (All
subject to space available and healthy inventory at the LFS, of course.)
<All excellent fish, but do review their temperature requirements. Black
Phantom Tetras for example prefer somewhat cool water. They're great
companions for most Corydoras, which also like cool water. But they'd be
bad companions for Cardinals, which need very warm water. You wouldn't
keep Corydoras with most Cardinals, but Corydoras sterbai -- the "warm
water Cory" -- would be a good choice.>
Assuming a good fully-cycled filter bed, hopefully some plants, and
allowing breathing room, what's a good stocking level? I do want
multiple species, but probably better off with fewer species/more of
each. I'd love some Corydoras sp. also, but wouldn't that black gravel
be too rough for them?
<Depends on the gravel. They certainly prefer smooth silica sand, and
they're a lot of fun to watch when kept with it. But black sand, such as
Tahitian Moon Sand, is too sharp for them. Smooth pea gravel is fine,
but heavy gravel or sharp gravel wouldn't be so nice.>
Obviously I have some options here. It's a pleasant process! Thanks in
advance for all your help, and meantime I will keep reading.
Thanks, CK =)
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Planning an Amazon setup; some questions
– 10/22/09
Hello Neale,
Thanks so much for the speedy reply!
<My pleasure.>
It pays to do a little math. I knew that a "55 gallon" fish tank is
nominal, like lumber, but imagine my surprise when I carefully measured
the *inside* of each tank and re-calculated. Turns out they hold almost
exactly the same volume of water (fraction of a gallon difference) but
the broader tank offers over 100 square inches more surface area. I was
going to use the tall tank on your very sensible recommendation re:
water *volume*, but since that's the same... the broad tank is a
no-brainer!
<Indeed. I'm actually surprised that they hold the same amount of water.
While you're right, tank sizes are somewhat nominal, that a 55 gallon
tank would hold the same as a 46 gallon tank sounds extraordinary.>
I've decided to go with the black sand and some of those lovely plants
you suggested. And I promise to check my fish specs carefully to get
some truly compatible species.
<Cool.>
Off to make room for setup. Thanks again!
CK =)
<Happy to help. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: A host of things:
substrates, water parameters, stocking options
8/22/09
Alright Neale,
<Joey,>
Your response got me thinking about a lot of different options. I may go
for the Amazonian set-up as planned, swapping out M. ramirezi for M.
altispinosus.
<A good idea. Since these cichlids, plus many tetras and most South
American catfish thrive in both soft and moderately hard water, it's
easy to create an Amazonian set-up without the expense of creating soft
water.
With moderately hard water, pH stability is easy to ensure, and your
filter bacteria will operate optimally, since these prefer hard, basic
water.>
I'm starting to be drawn more to doing either a hard water or
low-salinity brackish set-up (around SG 1.003). Then, I can still take
advantage of a live plant set-up, while using my area's water chemistry
more easily, and also keeping some very interesting species. That all
being said, I have a few more questions, based on our previous
discussion, as well as other articles I've read on the WetWebMedia site:
<OK.>
1) The CO2/CO3 issue: I've read about hard water plants that can utilize
carbonate salts as their carbon source rather than CO2. Would it still
be beneficial to supplement these plants with CO2?
<Yes; while such plants can use carbonate, if given CO2, they
photosynthesise that bit better. Equally, the removal of carbonate
allows pH to change, creating variable pH conditions when day is
compared to night. Note that in places like ponds and lakes, such pH
changes happen and animals adapt to them, so in themselves, pH rises and
falls on a daily, cyclical basis are not intrinsically lethal.>
It seems to me that adding carbon dioxide would simply use up the
water's carbonate buffer reserve more quickly, making the desired hard
water less hard. Thus, to add CO2 to any useful effect in an aquarium
with high KH would unacceptably change water chemistry. Is that how it
tends to work, or is it not that simple?
<It's complicated, but has been thoroughly worked out now. Do see here:
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Tech/golden-rules.html
I'm not an expert on CO2 fertilisation -- have never used it -- but
would direct you to those good folks at The Krib who really know about
this stuff.>
2) I've got a few different ideas for stocking arrangements for fish for
the hard water set-up, one of which I'd like to run by you: a school of
*Melanotaenia *praecox, two Kribensis (probably female, to decrease
territoriality and prevent breeding--desired for the time being),
perhaps one other which I would carefully research/choose, and lastly,
*Colomesus* asellus. That's the particularly question-mark fish of the
group, of course. I'd really like to keep about three of them. I know
that it is debated whether a puffer even as peaceful as this one should
be kept with other fish, whether it would be a healthy fit in general. I
read the article you wrote, "The Nice Puffer," and you offered a few
words about this topic. I'm wondering if you can tell me a little bit
more of your opinion on the matter.
<Will depend on the size of the tank: my SAPs are largely well behaved
in a 180-litre system with rocks and floating plants to provide cover.
In smaller tanks, your degree of success may well be less.>
With the Kribensis, my reasoning is that the SAP won't be as demanding
of the caves as other puffers might be, and thus won't compete with the
Kribensis, and that the cichlids can defend themselves against nipping.
<Have kept SAPs with a different Pelvicachromis species, P. taeniatus,
and they worked pretty well except for the occasional nipped dorsal
fin.>
I'm hoping the M. *praecox *are active and fast enough to evade
harassment by the puffers?
<Might be, but again, will depend on the amount of swimming space. Some
rainbowfish species tend to sit about in midwater rather than actively
patrol the tank, so think about that when shopping. Big groups and
strong water currents should tilt the odds in favour of the rainbows.>
Also, are there other fish that would fit into this arrangement well?
<Pretty much what's written in that article! Have subsequently found
Ameca splendens works well with them, and by extension, you might
consider other feisty Goodeids, such as Xenotoca eiseni.>
I don't know about the puffers. I'm really interested in having one of
the interesting hardwater/brackish oddball groups for the variety they
provide, and I'm very drawn to these SAPs.
<They are great fish. However, Carinotetraodon irrubesco is perhaps that
bit easier to slot into community tanks, and with floating plants
available, spends much time in the open and at the top of the tank,
begging for food.>
Let me know what you think.
Once more, thanks for your help,
Joey E.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Amazon tank compatibility
check and substrate question 05/21/09
Hey crew,
first of all, I'd just like to compliment you on your well-designed,
innovative, and extremely useful website.
<Thanks.>
Now to get down to business: I've got some moderate experience in fresh
and saltwater tanks, including my current 20 gallon S.E. Asian tank and
29 gallon nano-reef. I recently purchased and refurbished an older 55
gallon (200-odd liters?) tank with a brand new AquaClear 300 filter,
rated at 270 gallons per hour or so realistically. I originally had this
tank planned as a Mbuna community environment, but have become
love struck with a beautiful gold/ light brown angel my local fish store
has agreed to reserve for me until I get my tank cycled. I plan on using
some established sponge media and water from my 20 gallon, as the water
parameters for it and the Amazon biotope tank I am interested in are
obviously similar. I'll most likely add some blackwater extract to lower
the ph. I've had some small experience with live plants in the past and
am planning the 55 as a heavily planted tank (swords, Javan fern, Javan
moss, possibly Anubias and various crypt species).I will most likely use
the DIY yeast method for co2, along with some sort of diffuser
(recommendation?)
<Swords are the only ones here that really need CO2; none of the other
plants grow quickly, and hence get by fine on ambient CO2 levels, though
Crypts certainly will prosper uncommonly well given CO2.>
My first question is one of substrate: I happened upon some
high-quality, but relatively large, pebbles from a southern tributary of
the Brazilian Amazon (gotta love those adventurous friends). I'd love
to use these in my tank, probably under some sort of plastic webbing.
What, however, should I put on top of this?
<If burrowing fish such as Corydoras and dwarf cichlids, then you can't
go wrong with plain smooth silica sand; this also happens to be exactly
what you find along the bottom of the Amazon.>
I'm looking at laterite, which would be especially nice for the plants,
mixed with peat and possibly a small amount of silica sand. Now for the
all-important stock list: besides the plants, I'd like to run this by
you all:
The angel and a mate for her/him (Scooby, as I've named it, is about 3
inches in diameter).
<Fine, provided they actually are a pair; you can't sex them, and males
will be aggressive.>
6 cories, most likely aeneus variety.
6 (?) marbled hatchets as dither fish/ surface dwellers
<Delicate; approach with caution, and certainly keep more than 6.>
8 or so cardinal tetras, or black Neons if I can get my hands on them.
I'm guessing that if they are semi-adults when the angels are juveniles
and they grow up together, there will not be an issue of aggression.
<Fine.>
5 or so black widow tetras.
<Fin-nippers.>
Possibly a discus once the tank is established and cost-permitting.
<Don't mix Discus and Angels for various behavioural and healthcare
issues.>
Possibly a dwarf Pleco.
Possibly transparent shrimp (not sure of the species).
<Angelfish food, if too small... also, do bear in mind shrimps tend to
prefer neutral to alkaline conditions.>
Possibly the clown loach from my 20 gallon. He is very peaceful.
<Not really authentic, but Clown Loaches (plural!) work well with Discus
or Angels.>
A breedable pair of natural-looking (not neon-orange!) but mildly
colorful livebearers. Suggestions?
<Wouldn't; for a start, Poeciliids need different water chemistry, but
mixing stupidly colourful fish with a subdued planted tank will really
create a mash that doesn't look like one thing or the other. Have a
plan, and stick with it.>
The aquascape will be of the "Shore Slice" genre, consisting of a
drastic slope on the right-hand third of the tank, habitated by the
Echinodorus.
The center third will consist of tank-safe rocks as hiding places and
the Anubias and Cryptocorynes. The left-hand third will be draped over
with bog roots and be planted with the Javan ferns and mosses.
<Done this, can look very good.>
Overall, this is a very loose plan, and I'd appreciate any advice or
criticism. Also, 3 T12 tubes of 40 watts each should be fine for
lighting, as well as some indirect sunlight, correct?
<Not sure about "T12"; only used T5 and T8 tubes, in which case 2.5-3
watts per gallon will be need for Echinodorus, which like most
amphibious plants, are fussy about light quality. Does vary with species
though; certainly aim for "high" light intensity.>
Thanks,
Will N.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Amazon tank compatibility
check and substrate question 05/21/09
Thanks for the advice! But to clear up a few misunderstandings, I meant
"dye-ing" fish, not ones close to death.
<Ah, the importance of spelling! Dyed fish I don't like. As well as
being cruel and stressful (whatever the retailer might suggest about
anaesthesia, which isn't used, and fish not feeling pain, which isn't
true) dyeing reduces the health of the fish. Glassfish, for example,
have been demonstrated to be much more vulnerable to lymphocystis when
dyed compared
to in their undyed condition.>
And I wasn't planning on keeping rams with the Apistos, it's an either/
or scenario. And would a larger shoal of black widows reduce their fin
nipping, as it does with tiger barbs?
<Wouldn't bank on either species being reduced to 0% chance of nipping,
though I do understand that this is often the case with Tiger Barbs. As
for Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, it isn't a species I'd personally combine
with Angels, Gouramis, etc. Perhaps not so nippy as Serpae tetras, but
still a species that does misbehave with some regularity.>
And on a happier note, my tigers spawned for the first time yesterday.
<Cool! Have fun rearing the babies!>
Will N.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Tank mates - numbers, sex and
Compatibility for South American Tank 3/25/2009
Hi - looking at Sth American tank (4ft/280 litres)
<Ave,>
Proposed stock -
3 peppermint Bristlenose catfish (already have 2 - 1M/1F)
5 Sterbai Corydoras
<Add one more; Corydoras are schooling fish, hence 6+ specimens
recommended/required.>
6 Angel fish
<Suspect you'll end up with one dominant pair and four others
eventually. But by all means see how things go.>
10 Endler's guppies
<Angelfish food.>
3 Apistogramma - either agassizi or cacatuoides &/or3 Bolivian
butterflies
<Bolivian Rams (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus) would be the species of
choice here for many reasons: hardiness; lack of aggression
(Apistogramma have been known to bite the eyes off Corydoras); and
outgoing behaviour.>
From what I have read they all seem to share a preference for slightly
acidic, soft water @26 degrees.
<Not the Endler's, they do best in hard, basic water. Would skip them
anyway since they'll be eaten. But otherwise, yes, soft to moderately
hard, slightly acidic to slightly basic, moderately warm water will suit
Ancistrus, Corydoras, Angels, Bolivian Rams well.>
I have read here that Apistos eat the eyes out of Corys - which concerns
me greatly.
<Indeed.>
Is there enough room for all?
<Yes.>
I dearly love all these fish - but prefer them with their eyes!
<So would they.>
I plan a fairly complex tank - planted driftwood, rocks, latex "shelf"
rock with lots of ledges to try to provide territory's
<Angelfish only use VERTICAL territories, so caves and whatnot are
irrelevant. Instead look for things like tall bogwood roots, upright
slates, and other such things. In the wild, they lay their eggs on tree
trunks. The Mikrogeophagus will use all kinds of things for shelter, but
they are open spawners that use flat rocks or sandy pits. A mix of
caves, water worn pebbles, silica sand, and plants would suit them well.>
Some Amazons, crypts, Anubias with sand substrate.
<Nice. But do add some floating plants such as Amazon Frogbit to
moderate light and use up nutrients. None of these fish likes bright
light, so the shade offered by the floating plants will make them feel
more secure. Because floating plants tend to grow rapidly, they absorb
nitrate, improving conditions for nitrate-sensitive species like
cichlids.>
Please advise on Compatibility, numbers, sex and any other stock
suggestions
<Would swap out the Guppies for surface dwelling dither fish.
Hatchetfish would be ideal, but you could also go with a
surface-swimming tetra such as the Splashing Tetra (Colella arnoldi).
Ideally, avoid tetras that swim in middle or lower levels because these
won't act as dither fish. Dither fish encourage cichlids to swim about
in the open -- what you want!>
Many thanks
Melissa
<Cheers, Neale.>
Invertebrates for a loose Central/South American biotope 3/2/09
Hello Crew,
I hope you can offer me a bit of advise. I'm planning on setting
up a loose Central and northern South American biotope using some hardy species
in a 50 l.
<Fifty litres? That's not a lot of space. At best, we're talking a
harem of Apistogramma and perhaps a few surface swimming Carnegiella hatchets or
Heterandria formosa.>
The problem is I can't seem to find any invertebrates from the region other than
the apple snail which, I believe, will add too much bioload.
<Correct. In
addition, Pomacea snails need alternating cold and warm seasons to last for more
than a year. In the wild they go dormant for some months, and without being
cooled down, they effectively "burn up".>
Do you know of any suitable species
in the trade, preferable hardy ones?
<Would perhaps look to Asian shrimps;
while the families of shrimps in South America may be different, to the eye one
transparent shrimp looks much like another. So by all means use Amano shrimps if
they're available. Melanoides snails are now firmly resident around the tropics
including the Americas, so they can be added as well. Nerites are an option too;
as with the shrimps, the species in the Americas are different, but they're all
from the same family and extremely similar in appearance.>
I'm planning on
stocking with 4 red wag tail platies (I know they're not exactly a wild
breed..), 6 Endler's livebearers, and 6 Corydoras habrosus with relatively heavy
planting with low-light plants from the region, swords, narrow leaf arrowhead
etc.
<Platies will be far too large for this tank. Your other fish should be
fine though. Besides, if you're doing a biotope aquarium, why bother using
bright red artificial varieties of anything? Furthermore, all the Platies and
Swords in the trade are hybrids, further diminishing their value in a true
biotope aquarium. There are true dwarf Xiphophorus species, for example
Xiphophorus pygmaeus (to 4 cm) and Xiphophorus xiphidium (to 4 cm), that would
be better suited to a smaller aquarium. While not commonly "in stock" at pet
shops, they can be ordered from decent aquarium shops or obtained via fish clubs
and your national livebearer association.>
At PlanetCatfish
(http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/species.php?species_id=482)
it
recommends using fine sand and oak leaves for the Corys. Is this good advise?
<The leaves are optional, but the sand is, in my opinion and experience,
essential. Only in sandy tanks do Corydoras behave normally, and their whiskers
tend to grow much longer as well. Definitely worth doing.>
I realise it could
affect pH though I have a pH of 7.8 and hardness of 15.9 so I assume a high KH
(I haven't tested).
<Smooth silica sand from a garden centre will have no
effect on pH or hardness; silica is chemically inert. Do not use coral sand! Do
not use any sand designed for planted tanks (e.g., Tahitian Moon Sand or Eco
Complete) unless the packaging or manufacturer explicitly states it is safe to
use with burrowing fish. The two named are not safe with burrowing fish.
Retailers may know, but often their information is vague at best, so visit the
manufacturers web site before spending the money. Smooth silica sand is
extremely inexpensive and works well; here in England, a 25 kilo (55 lb) bag
costs about £3 ($5).>
Does this sound like a good set up?
<Apart from the
Platies, sure. Given the size of the tank, choose your livestock extremely
carefully. Consider territorial requirements in particular; if you get dwarf
cichlids, these can (and will) attack Corydoras, and in a small tank the results
can be very unfortunate for the catfish (Apistogramma for example bite the eyes
out of Corydoras). A 55-litre tank isn't much space to work with, so stock
lightly and use a competent level of filtration.>
Any advise greatly
appreciated.
Cheers,
Sam
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Invertebrates for a loose Central/South American biotope 3-4-09
Thanks for your help with this Neale,
<Happy to help.>
I should
have mentioned the reason for the platies is that I currently have 1 female
adult and 7 fry (the mother died unfortunately) that I didn't want to sell. Now
you mention it, the platies would definitely look out of place! I like the look
of X. xiphidium. Do you think Xiphophorus clemenciae is a viable option in 50L?
<Would be a squeeze; swordtails are active swimmers, and
appreciate space.>
I can't seem to find much
info on either species.
<Essentially identical
to Platies or Swordtails, depending on the species. Clean, hard water with a
decent current; moderate temperature (ideally 23-24C); algae-based diet.>
As for inverts, I am thinking of going with Neocaridina
heteropoda, the wild red cherry shrimp, if I can get them as they appear to be a
more forgiving in my London water and they might reproduce.
<"Might" reproduce??? Seriously, if Cherries are happy,
you'll have lots and lots of babies. Most get eaten by the fish, but if you have
non-predatory fish like small livebearers and small Corydoras, enough babies
survive that you get a healthy, self-maintaining population within a few months.
It's quite amazing. I give batches of shrimps away regularly, and pet shops are
always happy to buy surplus specimens.>
I'm also
in England: where do you get smooth silica sand that cheaply!?
<Garden centres. Look in the section where they sell
things like gravel and vermiculite. Make sure to get 'smooth' not 'sharp' silica
sand. It's sometimes called 'smooth' silver sand.>
One last thing, how do Bacopa monnerii, Ceratophyllum
demersum, Eleocharis parvulus, Echinodorus latifolius, Echinodorus paniculatus,
Hydrocotyle leucocephala and Riccia fluitans sound for low light (15 watts in
50l) plants in this set up?
<They sound like bad
choices. Bacopa and Hydrocotyle especially become etiolated and then die under
poor light. Hairgrass is a bit hit and miss under low light, but usually fails.
Swordplants are adaptable, but down to about "medium" light. Under low light,
concentrate on Cryptocoryne species, Anubias, Java ferns, Java moss, etc. The
potted Cryptocoryne species and hybrids sold in pet shops for £3-5 are
outstanding value because they do very well at around 1.5 watts per gallon,
which is what you've got. They live for many years, and once settled propagate
themselves happily, covering the substrate in new plants. Java ferns and Anubias
can be bought on pieces of wood and arranged as required.>
Cheers,
Sam
<Cheers, Neale.>
Amazon setup 6/22/08
Hi there
First things first great site, this is the first place I stop when I
need to find out anything with regards to my favourite hobby.
<Glad to hear it!>
Next I have a question, regarding a dwarf south American cichlid setup
that I would like to start, I have a 45 by 45 by 50cm tank, which is
pretty small which I'm lookin to setup, with a pair of dwarf cichlids.
<This *is* a small tank, no question. While perfectly viable for small
Apistogramma species, do bear in mind that (almost) all cichlids are
territorial, and even if you buy a "pair" from the shop, there's no
certainty they will remain a pair once put in another tank. In other
words, the male could turn aggressive and kill the female. So, proceed
with caution.>
I'm am interest in Apistogramma sp. And possible Microgeophagus although
I know they don't appreciate the same water conditions.
<Broadly speaking, Apistogramma want soft/acid water. But some are less
fussy than others; Apistogramma cacatuoides being famously adaptable and
often recommended as the best species for beginners. Mikrogeophagus
ramirezi wants similar water, but much warmer, 28C rather than 24-26C,
so the two genera can't be mixed. Mikrogeophagus altispinosus likes
"normal" water temperatures (24-26 C) but prefers neutral, even slightly
hard, water. So: research the species you want carefully.>
My first question is could you recommend a species I could try, I have
heard that cuckoo Apisto are a good place to start.
<Absolutely! Apistogramma cacatuoides, the Cockatoo Cichlid, is an
excellent species to start with.>
I would also like to make it as authentic a Amazonian setup as possible
so if you could recommend, some suitable plant, besides the usual Amazon
swords which I could use.
<Here's the thing: the Amazon River is not thick with plants. There
certainly are patches with plants like Amazon Swords, but these are
seasonal swamps, with the Echinodorus plants usually spending part of
the year with their leaves above the waterline and their roots in swampy
mud rather than flowing water. For a river as big as the Amazon, it is
hard to make generalisations (after all, the river is more than twice as
long as Europe is wide, and the drainage area of the Amazon Basin is
only a little smaller than the entire surface area of Europe). But
"classic" Amazon habitat is dominated by wood -- rotting wood or the
trunks of live trees. The substrate is typically sand (hence the lack of
hardness in the water) often covered with dead leaves. The best Amazon
tanks reflect this: lots of wood, sand at the bottom, and things like
Indian Almond leaves to create a non-toxic leaf litter. Minimal light,
blackwater extract to tint the water, and a moderate water current
complete the scene. And yes, Apistogramma thrive in such tanks! If you
MUST use plants, then go with low-light species such as Anubias or
Cryptocorynes; your cichlids will be much happier in a relatively gloomy
tank.>
I have lots of wood which I can use. I have neutral water but, I have
two discus tanks which I use peat to lower the ph to around 6, so
maintaining water quality conditions is second nature.
<Very good.>
this is still in the planning stages so everything is a blank page, so
if you could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
<I happen to like 'The Complete Aquarium' by Peter Scott as a starting
point for themed, biotope aquaria, but there are various other titles
out there as well.>
yasi
<Hope this helps! Neale.>
Re: Amazon setup. 6/25/08
Hi Neale
Thanks for the quick reply, I'm in the process of getting the component of
my system together. I am going to use to hang on filters, the larger one
will be set up to maximise biological filtration while the other smaller
filter will have active carbon insert and an ammonia inserts, do you think
this would work?
<Yep, should work fine. Not a big fan of carbon myself; I'd sooner do more
water changes to remove the "dissolved organics", and then leave the space
in the filter for more biological media. But each to their own. Ammonia
remover is a waste of money/time *except* in specific circumstances, e.g.,
hospital tanks where there isn't time to set up a biological filter. Ammonia
remove is also good in low pH systems (below pH 6) because the filter
bacteria aren't happy in strongly acidic water.>
My second question is to do with possible tank mates for the two possible
species I've selected. I intend to get either A. Borelli or A. cacatuoides,
depend on which i can get as i live in Capetown and we don't get much down
here.
<Both excellent species.>
(if any body can help?) I'm thinking about getting a school of cardinals for
the mid water area and a school of marble hatchet fish for the upper levels.
<Cardinals don't really move about at the top of the tank, so their value as
"dither fish" is minimal. What you want is something bold (good eaters!),
active (but not nippy), and not so predatory they would overwhelm the
Apistogramma. Hatchets can work, but they're quite delicate and nervous.
Small Danio species (like Danio choprai) and minnows (such as Tanichthys
albonubes) would be good. Depending on the water chemistry, some of the
livebearers are excellent dither fish, including Heterandria formosa and
Endler Guppies. African killifish (e.g., Aphyosemion spp.) can work well
too. If you have the inclination, a bit of time researching South American
characins could reveal some authentic alternatives though, e.g., Splashing
Tetra, Copella arnoldi.>
I was also think of adding one of my Bristlenoses from my discus tanks as
these guys have character. Do you think this mix would be ok?
Ancistrus are great companions for Apistogramma, being much more robust than
Corydoras, which often get bullied. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Amazon setup - 6/30/08
Hi Neale
Me again! I have managed to find a Petshop which stocks Apistogramma,
and i have settled on A. cacatuoides. Although the tank is not yet
cycled I wanted to do more research to avoid any problems when it is
ready. I was wondering about stocking numbers, how many should i get?
These are cichlids and they will have a social structure and pecking
order, right? so here is my question how many should i get to prevent
them from fighting with each other. I'm hoping to get juveniles and grow
them it too colourful adults. should i get a group? or should i just
start with two? I have noticed with my discus that buying a group of
five individuals works well in reducing intergroup bullying and was
wondering if this would work with the Apistos?
My second question is to due with what's on the menu for these guys? I
have read that live foods are the way to go as they really appreciate
this.
Thanks
Yasi
<Hello Yasi. Most Apistogramma are polygamous, with the males holding
territories within which the females protect their eggs (without much
help, if any, from the male). While often kept as pairs, this isn't what
they do in the wild. So the ideal is a tank around a metre long with
nesting sites for three or more females alongside the one resident male.
That will give you the best opportunity to watch their social behaviour.
Unless the tank you have in mind is very large, don't bother with more
than one male unless you are able to house at least three males
alongside at least ten females. Apistogramma cacatuoides is fairly
aggressive towards other fish too, and can/will damage "dither fish"
that swim near the bottom of the tank (e.g., Neons); instead use fast
surface dwellers such as Danios. Apistogramma cacatuoides is also a bit
hard on catfish, but since you're wanting to breed them (presumably)
catfish aren't a good idea anyway. Diet is easy enough: go with
wet-frozen (as opposed to freeze-dried) insect larvae (bloodworms for
example) as a staple, perhaps with a good quality pellet food if they
will accept it (many won't). Once at sexual maturity, yes, live foods
will help condition the fish prior to spawning. Not essential by any
means though. With Apistogramma, a varied diet, in small amounts,
several times per day is the key, coupled with scrupulous care re: water
quality. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Amazon setup - 6/30/08
Hi Neale
Thanks for the information, it I'm getting a better picture of what
these guys need. back to the drawing board i have two setup up a bigger
tank for these guys then i had planned in a previous mail. This
thankfully can be done as i was still in the process of cycling the
other. Phew, doing some work ahead of time saves you time, energy and
fish in the long run. I have read that these fish are typically black
water residents, so would eventually putting them with my discus be out
of the question? as a maintain my discus tanks under black water
conditions as my discus love this.
I plan to kept water quality by keeping to a similar schedule as i do
with my discus tanks, so i will be doing fairly large water changes
twice weekly or more if need be.
Cheers
Yasi
<Hello again! Quite right: time spent on research now will save you
hours and hours of building and re-building your aquarium, rehoming
fish, etc. Some Apistogramma can mix very well with Discus; but not all
Apistogramma are blackwater fish, and not all like 'hot' water
conditions. In other words, if you maintain your Discus at 28 C, 1
degree dH, and pH 5.5, then you wouldn't want to keep Apistogramma
cacatuoides in there, because A. cacatuoides likes neutral water (pH 7,
~5-10 degrees dH) and moderate temperature (25 C is ideal). But
Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, on the other hand, would thrive in soft,
strongly acidic, very hot Discus conditions. So choose species
carefully. We often treat a genus as meaning that all species are kept
the same way. But think about this: the genus Canis includes species as
diverse as Canis aureus, the Desert Jackal, and Canis lupus, the Wolf;
these clearly have very, VERY different environmental tolerances! Just
so with Apistogramma; there are species adapted to a variety of
habitats, though it is true MOST prefer soft, slightly acidic, moderate
temperature conditions. You also have the problem that in a too-small
tank, aggressive Apistogramma species can/will bully the larger but more
nervous Discus. Hope this helps, Neale.>
|
Setting Up A 20 Gallon South American Tank 5/10/07
Hello Crew, I am setting up my second planted aquarium, and would love to
have some input from you guys. It is a 20 gallon long and I would like it to be
a South American biotope and the temperature is 80 F. Doing a 50% mix of
Southern California tap water and RO water my pH is 7.6 and dKH 5 or 89.5 ppm
HH. I am going to buy a GH test online, I can't get one at any store. Is there
a freshwater test kit for Alkalinity, I've looked online and at the stores and
don't see any.
< Get a test for carbonate hardness, it is the same as alkalinity. Lots of info
on the website covering this subject already.>
The lighting is two fluorescent strips and is 2 watts per gallon. My substrate
is a mixture of natural gravel the LFS recommended for plants and Fluorite. I
have two 200 Aquaclear filters. Are there any South American plants that would
do well in my 20 gallon tank?
< There are lots of different species and cultivars of Echinodorus, Amazon sword
plant, that would do well in your situation.>
and still be I've read and read, but I'm not really sure if anything is
suitable.
Are there any Cory cats that would do well in the higher temperature?
< Most Cory species do well at 80 F, but check Planetcatfish.com for details
about a specific species.>
I would like to stock with either Cardinal Tetras/Corys/Otos and possibly
Rams. Is my tank large enough for both Corys and Rams, and if so how many Corys
should I get?
< Rams are territorial little cichlids that don't usually like to share the
bottom of the tank with anybody else. They will drive the cats away but they are
pretty well armored and can handle a little pushing around.>
Also, are Cardinal Tetras omnivores, or carnivores?
< Carnivores.>
I'm wondering how much plant material should be in their diet.
< Not much, they eat little invertebrates.-Chuck>
Thanks a bunch for this website and all your help!
Michelle
Re: 20 Gallon Long South American Tank. Plants For A South American Tank
5/11/07
Thanks a bunch for your answer! From my reading I thought Echinodorus,
Amazon sword plant became too large for a 20 gallon long and needed more than 2
watts per gallon. Are there any specific ones I should look at? Thanks again,
Michelle
< Lots of smaller varieties like E. quadricostas ( Broad Leaf Chain Sword), E.
tenellus (Narrow Leaf Chain Sword). Might try Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
(Microsword).-Chuck>
Amazon River Basin 5/10/07
I've set up a 90g Amazon River Biotope using
1) Drift wood (4 relatively large pieces)
2) Rounded river boulders and stones
3) Plants: Java Fern, Amazons, Java Moss, Riccia
4) Substrate: Super Naturals white and black sand - totally inert.
<Sounds nice, but plants aren't really part of the Amazon biotope. It's mostly
rocks, water, bare sand, and tree trunks. Amazon Swordplants, ironically enough,
aren't that common in the Amazon River proper. The species sold in the aquarium
trade are mostly amphibious plants found in marshes. Few (if any) live
permanently submerged. Obviously Java ferns/moss aren't from South America at
all. All this said, these are nice plants and will look the part if nothing
else!>
Equipment:
Eheim wet/dry filter (I know you guys are not fans)
Rena canister filter (I know you guys are not fans)
Powerheads
UV Filter
Aqua Medic 150w MH 10,000k bulb
White Lunar Lights
<Sounds fine. Do be careful with water flow though; while some species will
appreciate a strong current, like the Chalceus, others, like the Satanoperca
jurupari, are more fish of swamps and pools.>
Stock:
5 Geophagus jurupari
3 Pink Tail Chalceus
1 Black Ghost Knifefish
1 Fire Eel
8 Red Eyed Tetras
8 Cardinal Tetras
2 Redfin Prochilodus
<This mix of fish is what English politicians term "courageous", i.e., suicidal.
The Chalceus (presumably Chalceus macrolepidotus), the Fire Eel, and the
Knifefish are all very accomplished predators and will simply view the two
species of tetra as live food. These are also rather large: the Chalceus to at
least 20 cm, the Fire Eel to around 90 cm, and the Knifefish up to 50 cm. The
Redfin Prochilodus (presumably Semiprochilodus taeniurus) is a large (25 cm) and
very territorial omnivore that eats plants as well as mud and small fishes given
the chance. Two in a tank may fight. Satanoperca jurupari are lovely fish, but
dig constantly and need large areas of sand. While established Amazon Swords and
Java ferns will be fine, anything much smaller is likely to be uprooted or
covered in sand.>
And 10 snails to eat that damned Algae
<Irrelevant. In a tank with good (fast) plant growth there won't be much algae.
Manual removal from the glass will be fine. Amazon Swords might not be quite
fast enough on their own, so the addition of some cheap floating plant that you
can crop weekly might help. Limnobium or Salvinia would be ideal.>
All is fine, all systems a go for 4 months no problems so far and I'm sure that
will change soon or later. My question is would changing the 10k bulb to a
6,700k bulb make the tank appear more yellow than white AND the most important
question, how can I make the water more 'murky' that look like there are Tannins
in the water - do I add unwashed wood, is there a safe additive to create that
murkiness?
<Lights around 5500-6500K are optimal for plant growth and give a nice warm
colour. There's no reason the change right now, but after 6-12 months of use
when the tubes are ready to be swapped anyway, then by all means replace with
6700K tubes. Don't bother making the water murky if you want good plant growth.
The two things are mutually exclusive. So what I'm saying next is for interest's
sake. To make the water dark, blackwater extract can be added directly or you
can put peat granulate in the filter or allow bogwood to leach tannins out
naturally. All these things work well, but monitor the pH constantly because in
soft water the pH can crash downwards rapidly. None of your fish needs very
acidic water, so aim for pH 6.5-7, and only slightly soft water, around 5-10 dH.
Some Amazon Swords, incidentally, tend not to do well in acid water, so choose
the species carefully. Anyway, don't bother with darkening the water if you want
good plant growth. Remember, only bits of the Amazon region are "blackwater
rivers"; most of it is either "whitewater" (silty, coffee-au-lait colour) or
"clear water" (i.e., clear and uncoloured). Most of the fishes are from the
non-blackwater regions, the fish like discus that live in blackwater streams are
extreme specialists evolved for very harsh environments. They are to the Amazon
fish fauna what those weird deep sea fish are marine fishes.>
Thanks,
Aydan
<Cheers, Neale>
Re: Amazon River Basin 5/10/07
Thank you Neale for your help.
<Hello Aydan, and you're welcome.>
1. I've had an incredibly difficult time in getting info on the Amazon River
Basin - in terms of environment - live stock was easy, but getting photos of
plants and caves and such have been scarce, if you have any book or DVD that you
could suggest that would be very much appreciated.
<There is a book called "The Flooded Forest" by Michael Goulding that covers the
Amazon habitat and includes a lot about the fish. While mostly text, there are
lots of colour photos, including some underwater shots. There was also a BBC
documentary series on which the book was based, and it had lots of great
underwater footage. But I haven't seen it on sale for years and it doesn't seem
to be on DVD. A more recent BBC series on marine biology, "Blue Planet", came
with an Amazon special on the DVD set and while not brilliant in terms of
underwater footage, it was at least inspiring. You may have luck looking over
Animal Planet and National Geographic catalogues for their DVDs. While sometimes
a bit inane in terms of commentary, the video footage these two channels use is
often very good. It is difficult to generalise about the Amazon region because
it is so diverse, and that's one nice thing about the "The Flooded Forest" book.
So to some extent you can decorate the tank as you want, and then tweak the fish
collection accordingly.>
2. Taking your advice and will be getting the Semiprochilodus taeniurus out of
tank and slowly moving the tetras elsewhere.
<Cool.>
3. No Black Water - I'll leave that for a Discus tank in the future.
<Good call. Plants are difficult enough as it is without making things more
difficult.>
4. I've been thinking about introducing a teacup stingray. Any thoughts?
<There's no such thing as a teacup stingray. All that name means is a baby
stingray. They all get very large. You want a tank at least twice as broad as
the stingray is long, and since most stingrays get to *at least* 12-18" in disc
diameter, that means a big tank. They're basically incompatible with plants
because you want minimal substrate (many experienced keepers house them in tanks
with no substrate at all). They also need masses of "floor space" so open not
planted tanks are best. So while rays can make excellent pets for advanced
aquarists able to provide them with a suitable tank, in general I don't consider
them especially good aquarium fish.>
5. I've thought of using a thin tube siphon with a mesh or pantyhose something
fine enough to stop the sand bed from being filtered out while getting gaseous
waste out of the sandy substrate any idea if this approach is a smart one?
<How deep is the substrate? Realistically, an Eartheater cichlid and a fire eel
are both going to keep the substrate thoroughly turned over. Plants also
oxygenated the substrate, and actually grow best when the soil is very slightly
anaerobic (basically the mineral ions are in the chemical state the plants want,
and the roots carry down oxygen for the root tissues to survive without needed
oxygen from the soil). That's why plants grow so well in ponds with icky, smelly
mud at the bottom. I've used sand in tanks many times, and while gases sometimes
do get trapped in very deep beds, I've yet to see any sign of actual harm. My
assumption is that H2S, while toxic, also oxidizes almost at once as and when it
happens to get into the aquarium. Other gases may develop down there, such as
nitrogen, and these are harmless (and in fact the nitrate to nitrogen reaction
is a good one from the aquarist's point of view. In other words, while you
certainly should endeavour to keep the sand clean by having fish, plants, and
yourself do their bits, don't get paranoid about it.>
Again Thanks for your help.
Adayn
<Cheers, Neale>
South American Nano Cube Set Up – 04/16/07
Hi everyone, I was wondering if it would be possible to create a South
American Amazon Biotope in a 24 gallon nano cube aquarium?
< Sure no problem.>
If so would this set up be ok?: the structure would be EcoComplete substrate,
and driftwood.
< So far so good.>
The plants would be Anubias Nana, Brazilian Sword, Java Fern And Java Moss.
< Slow growing fairly hardy plants that do well in medium to low light. Only the
Brazilian Sword comes from South America and is not really a true aquatic. Look
into an Amazon sword as a long term alternative.>
Finally the fish would be Congo tetra,
< Gets too big (6 ").>
Rams, Angels, and Cory Cats ( how many of each could I safely put into the
tank?). This will be the aquarium they will be in all there life since I don't
plan on upgrading to a larger aquarium. Thanks
<The rams are a little dwarf cichlid that likes high water temps and guards a
territory from other fish like the Corys. two or three of each would be fine.
You should get a school of tetras like rosy tetras that don't have a long slim
body shape. About 6 will make a nice school.-Chuck>
South American Nano Cube II – 04/16/07
So the Angels, Rams and Corys are ok together in this size aquarium, or
would the tank do better without any angels?
< The angels will be Ok since they hang out in the middle of the tank. The
Cory's and Rams will be sticking to the bottom. If you don't have the angels
then a school of fish will be needed to fill the void in the center of the
tank.-Chuck>
Plants for Discus and Angel Fish – 4/10/07
I have a 60gal freshwater aquarium with 2 Discus and 2 Angel fish in it I would
like to know if I should use artificial plants or real plants...
<Aquatic plants aren't part of the normal discus (or angelfish) habitat: these
fish live in the "flooded forest" where nutrient poor waters wash around sunken
wood and the trunks of huge trees. The fish live hidden among the wood, and when
pairing off, guard bits of wood on which they lay their eggs. So by all means
use real or plastic plants if you wish, but the fish don't care. They'd sooner
have nice tall bits of real/artificial wood that they can explore, guard, or
school around. Also bear in mind not all common aquarium plants enjoy soft/acid
water. Vallisneria spiralis and the common Amazon sword Echinodorus bleheri for
example both like neutral to basic, moderately hard water.>
...also if it is a good idea to use volcanic rock in it as decor.
<Volcanic rock -- if you mean artificial lava rock rather than actual pumice --
does acidify the water. This is the porous, reddish-brown "rock", right? While
harmless enough in a tank with a basic pH and lots of hardness, in a soft water
discus tank I'd personally be vary wary of using it. At least, not without
trying a little first, and monitoring the pH for a few weeks before buying any
more.>
I do not want the fish to get hurt on the rock.
<They shouldn't.>
I would also like to know how many of these fish I can put in it if I was to add
other fish and what kind of fish I can add with them and how many.
<Discus, and to a slightly lesser degree angels, need good water quality.
Understocking is the easiest way to get this. Also, once they mature, angels
especially become very territorial, and will hold an area about 60-90 cm in
diameter, vigorously pushing away any conspecifics. So while you can probably
house half a dozen of either fish in a 60 gallon tank, the question is whether
you want to and whether the fish will put up with that once mature. As for
tankmates, both angels and discus appreciate slightly higher than average
temperatures. Lace gouramis and moonlight gouramis can work well though both are
a bit large. Clown loaches also work well, but again, rather large. Small tetras
(e.g. Neons) become angelfish food so not recommended. Bleeding heart tetras,
silver hatchetfish, African Glowlight tetras, and other non-nippy characins of
this size would work well. Warm-water catfish include Brochis spp., Bristlenose
plecs, and non-subtropical Corydoras (i.e., not bronze or peppered Corys). Very
small Suckermouth cats, like Otocinclus spp., can attack the sides of these slow
moving fish to eat the mucus, so avoid. Likewise aggressive loaches and cichlids
will often terrorize them. All this said, discus are perhaps best kept alone,
simply because it makes maintaining water quality good so much easier.>
George
<Cheers, Neale>
Water Parameters for South American Biotope 4/1/07
I am planning on keeping cardinals and also some dwarf cichlids (Rams, Apistos)
in a 75 gallon tank. My tap water is pretty hard (TDS 300+) , so I've been
playing around with mixtures of tap water and RO water.
<I'm stuck with much the same sort of water here in southern England, though I
use rainwater instead of RO, and Sera peat granulate instead of peat.>
I have mixed the RO and tap, aerated it for a day, measured and got the
following results:
8:1 pH--7.6
kH--3 degrees
GH--2-3 degrees
4:1 pH--8.0
kH--5 degrees
GH--2-3 degrees
I am concerned that the pH of these mixtures is relatively high. I am thinking
about getting some peat to try to lower the pH, but I am leery about the low KH
and the possibility of introducing dramatic pH swings to the tank. The kH of 5
degrees would be better, but the pH is obviously higher.
Would you recommend:
--Using the 8:1 ratio (with no peat)--is the KH too low to be "safe"?
--Using the 4:1 ratio (with no peat)
--Using the 8:1 ratio in conjunction with peat (and weekly monitoring of the
pH of the tank...)
--Using the 4:1 ratio with peat and testing...
<It's very difficult to make predications with soft water aquaria because they
tend to be volatile systems. My own personal experience is that the chosen ratio
of hard to softened water doesn't matter nearly so much as [a] regular water
testing and [b] regular, substantial water changes. If you're changing 50% of
the water every week in a lightly-stocked, properly buffered aquarium, you
shouldn't have any problems. Doing a pH test every couple of days for the first
few weeks should help you get a "feel" for any pH swings, and once you have that
data, you can plan remedial actions as required.>
Or is there some better option I should be considering?
<Definitely investigate using pH stabilizing (buffering) products that will
"fix" the pH where you want it. These remove a lot of the headache. A lot also
depends on the species being kept. An 8:1 ratio should be safe enough for most
species -- BUT I'd only add peat after you've had the system running 6-8 weeks
and satisfied yourself that you can maintain adequate water chemistry
stability. Peat is a difficult to predict variable because each peat or peat
product behaves differently. Definitely try a little first, and then add more
after a few weeks once you're happy with the results. One other thought: unless
you are planning on breeding the fish, you may not need to soften the water too
much. For simple community tank care, a ratio of 4:1 or 6:1 with blackwater
extract instead of peat might be absolutely fine for cardinals and Apistogramma,
depending on the species in question.>
Thanks for your help.
Nate Terry
<Cheers, Neale>
Stocking a 15 Gallon FW Plant Tank 3/21/07
Hello, I have a 15 gallon eclipse system tank, that has been cycled since
late August. The inhabitants I currently have are 3 marbled hatchets, 3 nanus
neon cories, and 1 German blue Ram. There are also 2 different Amazon swords,
one is ground level that grew a stem and leaves to reach the surface, emergents
I am guessing? Also, the second is a large sword, with large broader
leaves that stretch to the top of the tank. These have been in my tank since
Early November or late October. Temperature is at 78 degrees and pH is about 6.4
( slowly bringing it down to 6, it used to be 7)
I have a couple of questions. My blue ram is very shy. He has been in my tank
since October, the last fish added, and since then he has been very frightened
of me. He eats and explores the tank, but only when I am not in the room.
I would have to hide and watch as he scouts around the tank. When I walk by, he
hides, and does not come out at all. Is there a way for me to get my trust in
him and so he gets to know who I am better? He won't even come out to feed when
I am standing there, I would have to go hide. Up until this day, he has not had
any diseases or such and has been quite healthy. I don't even feed him the
bloodworms because it doesn't go to his belly but to my tanks nitrates. Any
advice?
< Rams are normal very shy fish to begin with. Having other fish in the tank
creates some activity and helps these fish get over their shyness. They are
referred to as dither fish.>
Second, is my stocking complete? I have the three small nanus cories, at the
moment not bigger than an inch, the 3 marbled hatchets about 1.5 inches
long each. And the ram who is about two inches. I understand that the inch per
gallon is just a general idea to help you stock, but it doesn't necessarily
give you the exact stocking level. The tank is 10 width, 20 length, and about
18-20 height depending on how high the water level is. Can I add anything else
to the tank? Maybe a mate for the ram or a small group of tetras?
< Check the nitrates. If you can keep them below 20 ppm between water changes
then you can add some additional fish. A small group of tetras would work just
fine for your dither fish problem too.-Chuck>
I am fixing up the tank, adding some real driftwood, more live plants, upgraded
lighting to the least 30 watts, and better fertilizing gravel for the
plants. The lighting is the only problem, because of the eclipse hood.
Thanks, Joe
South American Tank 1/21/07
Hi,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I am planning on setting up a South American type tank. My tank is a 75gallon
(48x18x18 inches). I would like have the following fish: two pairs of rams,
two pairs of Apistogrammas, a small shoal of Cory cats (maybe 6). I would also
like a few Otos (maybe 3) and a school of cardinals. How many would be a good
number-20 or 30?.
<Since discus are sensitive to nitrates, I'd go with 20, to keep the bioload
down.>
I would also like three discus. Several questions: First, I am overstocking?
<No, sounds like a nice plan.>
Second-I only plan on doing weekly (or knowing me, every other week) water
changes of 10-20 gallons a week. Does this "disqualify" me for trying discus?
<Definitely would, IMO. I do weekly 90% water changes on my discus
tank. Discus breeders to 100% daily! ~PP>
Thanks, Nate Terry
South American Tank 9/25/06
Hi
<Hi Nate, Pufferpunk here.>
I have a 75 gallon tank (48 x 18 x 18 inches) which I wish to turn into a South
American tank. Here are the proposed inhabitants: 2 pairs of Rams, two pairs
of Apistogramma, 6 Cory cats, 3 otos, a school of cardinals (20-30). I would
also like to keep 3 discus.
Questions: I am planning on doing 15-20 gallon water changes weekly (or knowing
me, more like once a week). Is this enough for Discus? If not, I'll go
without Discus. I'd like to keep a promise to do more water changes, but it
just won't happen.
<I'd forget about discus then. Discus breeders do 100% WC daily. I do 80%
weekly.>
Oxygenation: Do I need some air pumps to oxygenate the water?
How many air pumps would you recommend?
What size air pumps?
<I don't use pumps/airstones. The water flowing back into the tank, should
agitate the surface enough for O2 exchange.>
Flow: I will have two whisper 60 filters on the tank for filtration. Should I
add additional powerheads to give the fish some kind of current?
<No, not necessary for these fish. I add a canister to any tank over 50g, like
an Eheim. ~PP>
Thanks, Nate Terry
Re: Setting Up A South American Tank
Hi sorry about all the questions but I want to set this tank up right the
first time. My question is about water parameters. I wanted to know what the
ideal water parameters we're for a tank containing 2 freshwater angels, 2 blue
rams and 9 Rummynose tetras. As far as ppm total hardness, ppm total
alkalinity/buffering capacity, pH and anything else important. Thanks for
answering all my questions, I hope I'm not a pest.
--Sbatiste
< In the wild these fish come from warm soft acidic water. The pH should be
between 6 and 7 with the total hardness less than 100 ppm. Get these right and
the others things will take care of themselves. All these fish are available in
domestic form. These can take a much wider range of water parameters than their
wild counter parts.-Chuck>
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