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FAQs about Identifying Giant Clams, family Tridacnidae
Related Articles:
Got Tridacna? A beginner's guide to keeping Tridacnid clams
by
Laurie Smith,
Example Chapter from
NMA Reef Invertebrates book, on Giant Clams, Tridacnids,
A Brief
Guide to the Selection and Placement of Tridacnid Clams by Barry Neigut,
Bivalves,
Mollusks,
Lighting Marine Invertebrates,
Related FAQs: Tridacnids 1, Tridacnids
2, Tridacnids 3, Tridacnids 4,
Tridacnid Clam Business, Tridacnid
Identification, Tridacnid
Selection, Tridacnid Compatibility, Tridacnid
Systems, Tridacnid Lighting, Tridacnid
Placement, Tridacnid Feeding, Tridacnid
Disease, Tridacnid Reproduction,
Bivalves,
Bivalves 2,
Lighting
Marine Invertebrates,
Kitty in a Clam
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Tridacnid care & placement 4/1/07
<Hi Glen, Mich here.>
I have recently purchased two Tridacnid clams which I am very pleased
with. So pleased that I forgot their names and could use some help with
the ID. Both are young clams, slightly larger than 4" long. In the
attached picture I have tentatively identified T. derasa in the
foreground and T. Crocea in the background (thanks to the descriptions
in The Reef Aquarium, Vol 1).
I am fairly sure about the ID of T. derasa due to the white, plate-like,
symmetric shell which lacks scutes, displays very little ribbing and has
a narrow byssus gland. The other, I believe, is T. Crocea due to the
overflowing blue mantle, wavy edges and scutes prominent only on the
upper shell margin. The rest of the shell has well-defined
ribbing. Additionally, the shell edges are asymmetrical, with the hinge
side being shorter than the byssus gland side. The byssus gland is also
very large, rounded, and extends almost to the shell edge. A few of the
eyespots also appear to extend above the mantle surface as if they were
little, short tubes. I am less sure of this ID since it also comes very
close to that of T. maxima and most pictures of clams are of beautiful
mantles, not shell features. Line drawings are of very little help to
me.
<These ID's are correct.>
Right now the clams are placed directly on a 6" DSB, the top 2" being
comprised of CaribSea Reef Base substrate, which my sleeper goby loves
to sift through in this little lagoon. I am concerned that as he does
his work, the Reef Base falls onto the open mantle of the clam and may
aggravate the clam. I have even seen the clam quickly close it's shell
in order to eject a few particles which have fallen into its incurrent
siphon. I'm sure that these animals are designed to contend with this
situation, but should this be a concern?
<I would move these clams.>
Since my light source is two 65W PC 10,000K daylights and two 65W dual
actinics (260W total), I am planning to move them up onto the rockwork
to get closer to the light.
<I think this is wise.>
Currently they are 18" from the light source and 14" under the surface
of the water, which is mediocre lighting. Moving them up on the
rockwork would put them 5" - 7" closer, which should be much better for
their health, but worse for our viewing pleasure.
<May want to consider moving them even higher.>
My only concern with placing them on the rocks is how to move them when
they grow bigger. Do I rock them a bit and cut the byssus strands close
to the rock?
<I would avoid doing this if at all possible.>
Can I damage the clam if I do this?
<Absolutely. Hopefully the clams have not attached to the bottom of
your tank. What I would do is lift these clams up off the sandbed and
place them either on a flat rock, a large reef plug or in a clamshell
and allow the byssal apparatus to attach. This will make the clam
portable and allow you to move the clam if the need arises. Basically it
provides options and I think options are good.
More here and links in blue at the bottom: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/Clam_care/Clam_care.htm
-Mich>
-Glen |
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Giant Clam Species Identification - 02/24/06
I think I sent to wrong email address yesterday....
Nice website!
I am trying to identity a couple giant clam specimens so I can read about their
individual needs. Attached are photos of these specimens. Any help you can
provide in identifying them would be very helpful. You will also notice that
the brown clam's mantle is a bit washed out (white) in the middle. At night the
incurrent siphon is more round than oval which is also concerning. I have been
feeding it a combination of DT's marine live phytoplankton and marine snow
typically daily. Lighting is 280 Watts T5 bulbs for 46G tank, both clams are
within the top 10" of the tank.
Thanks
Greg
<<Greg, the pictures won't open/are corrupted...do try sending again. Regards,
EricR>>
Clam I.D. and care. 1/31/06
hey guys how is everything going.
<Great, thanks for asking.>
Well i recently purchased a small clam at my LFS and I know its super
healthy it reacts to the slightest shadow or movement. I have had it for
a week now. The problem is I don't know what type of clam it is. the
guy at the store told me he thought it was either a maxima or Crocea.
<Looks to be T. Crocea.>
I have provided some pics so you can help me out. He is currently
sitting about 14" under a custom sea life 130 watt fixture 65 of 10,000k
and 65 of actinic.
<Move him as close to the top of the tank as possible with this
lighting. And remember to change your bulbs at least every 9 months.>
I also have moon lights and am feeding him DT's Phytoplanton 3 days a
week. any suggestion.
<Keep calcium high and water quality stable.>
please let me know thanks again. Ohh i almost forgot its a 30 gallon
tank.
<Adam J.> |
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Tridacnid ID - 01/28/06
Hello Wet Web Media Friends,
<<Hello Darryl>>
Like many before I love (like very much) your website... Thank you.
<<Good to hear.>>
I have the opportunity to purchase a clam, I've been wanting one for a
couple years but have felt my tank wasn't ready, it is now a thriving
two years old.
<<Cool!>>
The clam in question is the one in the attached pictures. I am told it
is a Tridacna Squamosa but from the research I have done I
believe it is a Tridacna Crocea clam, can you confirm my suspicion for
me as this will obviously have an effect as to the placement of the clam
in my tank (among other things).
<<Hmm...the pics are a bit fuzzy, but the absence of 'prominent' scutes
(the scalloped projections on the shell), and the color/pattern, lead me
to think you are correct.>>
I am also concerned about the opening as it seems quite large. It has
great coloring and it responds well to the fish swimming by, very
responsive opening and closing.
<<It does look to be "gaping" a bit...but this may simply be dir to
handling/shipping stress. The responsiveness is a good sign.>>
I have a 180 gallon tank with 2x250watt 10,000k metal halides, 2 96 watt
10,000k power compact fluorescents and a 96 watt actinic. The clam would
be about 8" from the top of the water and directly under a halide that
is another 6-8" from the top of the water. It would be sitting on the
center of a rock 'plate' that is about 12" in diameter. Would this be a
good place for him/her?
<<Should be fine, though this is really more light than it "requires" to
survive. I have two T. crocea sitting on the bottom of a 30" tank (6"
DSB/24" water column) under 250w 10K MH lighting. They have been
thriving and growing for more than 18 months now.>>
I have already used Wet Web Media and other sources to answer the rest
of my questions (assuming I'm correct in the identification:)
<<Excellent!>>
Thank you for your time,
Darryl K.
Edmonton, Alberta
<<Welcome, EricR...Columbia, SC>> |
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Coral question and clam identification?
Water quality in 55 gallon tank.
PH 8.4
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Calcium 340ppm
Alkalinity 9.8 dKH
Salinity 1.025
Temp 78 - 80
Lighting 1-Actinic 95w VHO 1- Aquasun 95w VHO 1-Actinic 30w Coralife
1- 10,000k 30w Coralife
<Okey-dokey>
This piece of coral is about 6 inches from the top of the tank and has looked like this for a few days now.
<lighting is somewhat weak for this Neptheid (AKA "Kenyan Tree Coral"), but unlikely to elicit this response>
It was about 12 inches from the top a few weeks ago and looked good when I
moved it but now it looks like this.
<perhaps a just acclimating>
Is this normal or is it to close to the top of the tank?
<definitely not too close... in fact, this beautiful coral will turn turquoise under a bank of VHO blues (2-4 lights)>
Also can you please identify this type of clam for me. It has a brownish look to it although it looks a little different in the picture. Thank You.
<I would need a better picture to be sure but you may have a very interesting clam here! Tridacnids are rather easy to identify but yours looks like it could be a hybrid of two species known to hybridize. The mantle is conspicuously like a T. squamosa... but the shell does not have the characteristic worn scutes of a T. squamosa, and instead looks worn and ribbed like a T. derasa. Still the picture is not clear enough. A close up of the shell and mantle
separately would help if clear. Best regards, Anthony> |
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Tridacnid clam
Hi Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I have a really good relationship with my LFS.
<excellent! a blessing that not all aquarists enjoy>
Due to this I am able to order some unusual items, and can pick them up on delivery from the suppliers, before they even enter their tanks. For this reason I sometimes have to rely on them for quality, and it works out to be beneficial 99% of the time. However about 3 1/2 months ago I asked for them to get some Tridacnid clams, and gave my list of preference. When I arrived they had hand picked a blue Maxima or derasa (my guess I was too excited to ask) for me still in it's bag and difficult to visualize.
<T. maxima it is>
When I got home it unfortunately had some brown areas along both sides of the mantle (see picture enclosed).
<not unfortunate... perfectly natural and rather common pigmentation>
I thought it was just due to being under poor lights and it would recover.
<will not change my friend>
I have had it for over thee months in my 125g reef. It is within 2 feet of the lights which are 2-140 actinic VHO for 8 hrs/day and directly under one of three 175 cheapie 55K Venture
MH for 4 hrs/day. I replaced the MH. about 6 weeks ago as it was slightly yellow, the new one is much whiter. Is this just some normal marking or am I in for trouble.
<relax and enjoy this beauty... a nice specimen>
The clam is always extended and closes very fast when a fish swims too close.
<very good responses...healthy>
Any ideas would be appreciated.
<tridacnids are graded by color on export and few of the "cover girl" blue seen in books and magazines make it to the USA. Some Germans and many more Japanese aquarists are willing to pay a much higher dollar for
select ultra blue clams than American aquarists. So... we do get some very nice clams... but most/many have variable pigmentation. Your specimen is very nice overall and likely a better deal at under $100 compared to the $300-600 USD needed to get a hand picked (ultra
grade) pure blue specimen>
Thanks Larry
<best regards, Anthony> |
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