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FAQs about Acroporid Coral Selection

Related Articles: Acroporids, SPS Corals

Related FAQs: Acroporids 1, Acroporids 2, Acroporid Identification, Acroporid Behavior, Acroporid Compatibility, Acroporid Feeding, Acroporid Disease, Acroporid Systems, Acroporid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral PlacementFoods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef CoralsStony Coral Behavior,

Re: New Marine Setup 3/14/09
Thank you for the reply.
I can get the Acartia tonsa and the brine shrimp free.
I gave them a large tin of shrimp eggs a few years ago.
Do you think considering my tank is so new, that I could put a red plating Montipora in my tank or is it too soon?
<A tank this age can do ok with SPS. Some things to look at are you water quality and stability of
your water quality. Are you battling any algae or BGA that many newer tanks do? My personal
rule of thumb is when your tank is stable and you start getting good coralline growth, then it is
<Scott V.>

Acros, contrary to popular belief, most definitely NOT a beginners coral!  9/5/08 Dear Crew, <Carolyn> Thought I'd add my two pennies worth! I have read a considerable amount of literature regarding the best sps for beginners, and the majority of evidence suggests that Acroporas and Montiporas are excellent choices, however I beg to differ! <We are in agreement re the first genus> I currently have three Acroporas in my 135 gallon reef tank, all relatively new. All were treated the same way on arrival, very slow acclimatisation over at least 1 hour, lights off to avoid light shock, water quality before and after adding was measured (ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 5-10ppm, pH 8.4, dKH 12.8, calcium 450ppm, magnesium approx. 1200ppm, salinity 1.023, <Mmm, I'd raise this to NSW strength> temperature 25 degrees Celsius. The tank itself is stable in terms of water parameters and is checked weekly at least. All three corals were initially placed low down in the tank and gradually raised to their current positions over a period of 14 days, however while one is perfectly healthy and is growing (where a couple of growth tips were knocked off in transit, new tissue is forming and polyps are seen), the other two appear to have died - instead of bleaching, threads of coloured tissue can be seen training from the skeleton in the current. Both are the branching "Staghorn" type, whereas the survivor looks more of a millepora type (thicker branches, less spikey). Is there something I've done that has caused this? <Mmm, not likely> Neither of the affected corals were in proximity to any other corals (a clear 6-8 inches between all specimens). I'd like to develop the reef more along the sps route, however I'm not prepared to watch such beautiful animals die under my care if I can't provide for them properly, just as you would any other creature. Last question, is there any chance of these two corals recovering or are they doomed? <There is/are good chances of recovery here... may take some time to "turn"... (weeks to a few months)> Many many thanks as always, Carolyn <I would like to at least add a note here re your sample size... Do consider buying "locally"... from other hobbyists, frag swaps, club meetings... The less trauma (time in transit, handling...) the better with these (and all other touchy) livestock. Bob Fenner>

Acro Sel. < Hello Bob-I have ordered fifty pounds of live sand from FFE as a "refresher" for my ten years old deep sandbed, and want to start adding small polyp scleractinians to my tank. The tank is 2' high by 2' deep by 4' long, and will have two 400W 6500K metal halides over it. It is filled about 25% up from the bottom with live rock, and is hooked up to a sump with two large Tunze skimmers and a Fluval 403 filled monthly with ESV GAC. What corals should I start with? Thanks, Kurt Seidler >> In my opinion a few Acroporid fragments would be best at this time... FFExpress sells captive fragged staghorns as do many local shops and independent hobbyist/fraggers... look around... and in a couple of months we'll talk. Bob Fenner

Technical Staghorn Info. Thank you much for your help. I greatly appreciate it.  Are there any particular Acropora species that are "less demanding" when it comes to lighting. Or is it mostly dependent on the zooxanthellae pigments? <Yes, to a degree.... and always... what do you really want to know... where to search out information/specifics on Staghorn corals?... > Which pigments develop in the presence of which intensities in nature? <Ha! really? I'll look this up if you're serious...> or are the Axial corallites the areas that develop the radiation-specific pigmentation? <The axial corallites, the more significant salient identifying characteristic of the family (Acroporidae)... these areas do develop more and some different photosynthetic pigments... and storage foods.... that lend their apparent coloration> (not worried about water quality or circ, got those ends pretty well covered) lighting Brand-spankin' new 10,000 k 18" Coralife tube 2 month old 50/50 6500k/actinic 3 18" Coralife tube I ask because this is only (Yikes!) 30 watts over a 15 gallon high.  I am less concerned about protein skimming after discussions with curators from Mote Marine Lab/Aquarium (don't know if your familiar with them) where I volunteer. <Yes, know the place, people> Their experience shows that mature reef tanks with continuously optimum water quality (w/out water changes) would actually not be affected at all by protein skimming and might starve beneficial bacteria or microbes and that it is not necessary.  <Not indefinitely> I have to admit (more like brag), my tank has been up and probably overstocked since last July, and I have never had a problem with water quality. As a matter of fact I went 2 and a half months w/out a water change (shame on me, I know), and when I finally made a 25% change the water was still well <10 nitrates.  thanks once again Chris >> <What does Zig Ziegler get credit for..."Nothing succeeds like success"... more power to ya... If what you're doing works for you... Bob Fenner>

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