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FAQs on Anemone Behavior in Marine Aquariums 2
Related Articles:
Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs,
Cnidarians, Coldwater Anemones,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs: Anemone Behavior
1, Cnidarian Behavior,
Anemones 1, Anemones 2,
Anemones 3, Anemones 4,
LTAs,
Bubble Tip Anemones,
Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Other Pest
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting, Anemone Feeding,
Anemone Systems,
Anemone Identification,
Anemone Compatibility,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, A Close-up of an
Actineria sp. pic by DianaF in N. Sulawesi. | 
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An ID Question (flatworm) and Anemone Behavior Issues 6/27/08
Crew- <Craig> May I please get a positive ID the first
attachment? From what I have read, it appears to be an Acoel
flatworm of the genus Convolutriloba. <Is a flatworm evidently>
If possible, can we confirm what behavioral info you might have and
point me to it? <Mmm, not following you here... what beh. info.
re what?> Additionally, can you speculate that these flatworms
would be suitable prey for Chelidonura varians, the "Blue Velvet"
sea slug? <Might be... but if they're numbers are low (enough)
I'd ignore them> For some time I have wanted to purchase one of
these animals, but have never went down that path since I knew they
were specialized predators that I could not feed on a consistent
basis. <Correct... and when prey numbers are low... it/they
"disappear"...> Right now, these flatworms are in the midst of a
population bloom in an aquarium that only has a pair of percula
clownfish in a BTA. I have added a pair of peppermint shrimp, but
they have not had an appreciable impact on the population of
flatworms. <Many are unpalatable... as you likely are aware>
Also, if these guys pose any risk to my aquarium inhabitants or even
my copepod population I would rather introduce a predator or siphon
them out. It seems that is the consensus of the responses on WWM.
<Okay; glad to find you've searched> The second attachment is of
a BTA I purchased about a month ago. I wanted to contribute to the
knowledge base about some observations I have had with this animal.
It is probably the 10th BTA that I have owned - the others I have
sold to other aquarists after pairing various clownfish species and
getting the pair to host in the anemone - it's just something I
enjoy doing. It's often a challenge to pair clowns up (especially
maroons) and even more so to create to commensal relationship
between clowns and their host anemones. <Interesting... that you
state/find this symbiosis to be such, rather than mutualistic> I
believe I have read on the site that the behavior of BTA is more
sedate than other anemones; meaning that while all anemones can/do
wander, BTAs tend to find a rocky crevice and lodge their foot
inside. <Mmm, most so with successive asexual clones here> I
have found this behavior to be true of all the BTAs I have kept
until I brought this one home. THIS anemone wandered around all
night for about the first two weeks. Each evening it would fill
itself up with water at the end of the day and then it would go on
trips around the aquarium. Each morning I would move it back to the
place I wanted it to occupy and it would attach itself there for the
day. I thought, "Well, evidently the anemone will tell ME where it
wants to stay and I will like it." <Yes to the former, hopefully
so for the latter> Interestingly enough, the LFS had it in its
display tank and it had never moved the whole month or so they had
it; in fact, we had to chisel it out of the rockwork just to get it
home. Both my tank and the LFS run MH lighting: theirs a 250W at
10K, mine a 250W at 14K. I have about 15X water flow per hour, the
LFS had about half that. About a week after bringing it home, I knew
something was amiss with nocturnal roaming of the BTA, so I went
back to the LFS to check their water parameters. It turns out they
run their SG at 1.023 and my tank was at 1.025. When I lowered by SG
to 1.023, the anemone promptly returned to the place I had been
trying to keep it and it hasn't moved since! <Interesting as
well. Coincidence?> The third attachment is of a carpet I bought
the same day as the BTA. Could you confirm whether it is S.
gigantea, as I suspect? <Looks to be... on the basis of the
pedicle> It is in a different system than the BTA and currently
hosts a pair of black ocellaris clowns.... which is very sweet. The
SG of the system I found this guy in measured 1.028. I took most of
the day I bought it acclimating it to 1.026 SG, which is the highest
I feel comfortable keeping the tank at. It was under a single 10K
VHO bulb in a plumbed in 29G tank at the LFS, <Much too low>
now it's under 400W of MH in a 92 corner bowfront. Apart from
its weak coloration, it looked great at the LFS and I have to say it
does look a little less turgid these days than when I bought it (its
tentacles are longer and not as "plump", but it eats weekly and has
NOT moved once since I introduced it to the tank. I found this
ironic since the guidance on WWM indicates that carpets tend roam
excessively. <Some do when first brought in from the wild, but
exceedingly rare once settled. Heteractis magnifica are the kings of
travel> I guess we can try to observe general tendencies among
species of aquatic life but there will always be exceptions.
<Well-stated> At this point, I have a pretty keen eye to catch
the behavioral cues that anemones exhibit to show how they are doing
in a captive system. Would you suggest gradually letting the SG
increase to 1.027-28 and see if the carpet really does prefer such a
high SG? <Mmm, no> Part of me feels like it should have
settled in by now and be looking better - I can say its coloration
has darkened significantly (since it has better lighting) but it
doesn't seem to be as large as it once was and I suspect the SG may
be a little too low for its liking. I am not worried it would die
tomorrow, but I am thinking long term here about what parameters I
need to stick to. <Near natural seawater, NNS> I am sure that
had I not been reading WWM for years now and researching some of the
overarching principles of marine aquaria I would have at least lost
the BTA. I remember back in my early days I probably would have been
desperately trying to FIX something instead of focusing on stability
and incremental changes, if needed. <Ahhh!> I definitely
wouldn't have suspected SG. I wouldn't have even considered that my
instrument might need to be calibrated. I definitely would have
thought about ammonia, or even nitrate, as a culprit....but not SG.
So many thanks to all you at WWM for your contributions to the many
of us hobbyists out here. We are all definitely made better for your
efforts in what we do. Thanks! Craig <Thank you for
sharing as well. Cheers, Bob Fenner> | |  |
Anemone Losing Tentacles – 2/28/08 HI <Hello Lewis, Brenda
here!> I have a 100gal reef tank and an extremely large anemone that
measures about a foot in diameter. <Is large, but they can get much
bigger.> It has been in my tank for about 3 or 4 months now. I've
noticed that it sheds quite a good amount of tentacles then re-grows
them. Is this common for a Sebae anemone? <No, this is not normal.
There is likely something bothering this anemone. What else do you have
in your tank? Such as fish, crabs, shrimp, etc. To be safe, please give
me a list of your water parameters and equipment. There is more
information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemhlthfaq6.htm >
Thanks, Lewis <You’re welcome! Brenda>
Anemone Activity... beh... misplaced... 2-12-08 Hi WWM
Crew! <Good Evening.> My husband and I have a 65 gallon, live rock
tank that has been up and running for over a year now. We recently made
the mistake of purchasing a puffer fish (without researching first) that
ate both our cleaner shrimp and banded shrimp. <Yes, they have quite
the taste for invertebrates. I have about 15 here.> Our (and their)
terrible mistake as we really enjoyed these small creatures and had
actually trained them to eat out of our hands and our grandchildren
loved to feed them. So, we thought we should ask lots of questions and
read what we could find before adding an anemone and clown fish to the
tank. We were assured that none of the fish we had would bother the
anemone. <Good.> Well we brought home our new fish and friend just
3 days ago. The day we brought the anemone and clownfish home they were
a very happy couple. They were both healthy and feeding right away. They
are housed with a blenny, a green bird wrasse, the puffer, three
humbugs, 2 damsel fish and a star fish. <A little too overstocked I
think. What kind of puffer do you have?> The problem, day 2 at their
new home and the anemone was shrunk down as far as it could. The clown
fish could not convince it to open and continued to try and feed it.
Today we came home from work, and there was the anemone wide open and
looking happy and healthy again. We went out for the evening, and once
again...the anemone is shrunk even smaller than before. <What kind
of lights are you running and how often?> We have checked the water
quality and all levels are very good to excellent. We were told, and
have not been able to find anything to the contrary on the internet or
in our books, that the puffer and wrasse would not be an issue with the
anemone. Is this true or is it likely one of them is picking at it?
<It is not likely due to the stinging factor that the anemone has. I
have heard of puffers having a taste for them though but have never
experienced it myself. If something did pick at it, they would receive a
very unpleasant surprise. Puffers and anemones are not compatible though
because puffers are very inquisitive and there is a chance that they can
get stung to death. > Is this normal behavior for an anemone? We
haven't been able to find the answers anywhere else. Please help us,
very soon, as it is such a beautiful creature we would hate to have
anything happens to it. <Anemones contract and expand during the day
depending on mood and lighting. When it gets dark they rear back and at
the brightest light they are wide open. What kind of anemone is this?
Check this link for more information on anemones:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm;>
Will you only post this to your site or will you email us personally as
well? How long will it take to get a response? We are concerned that if
too much time passes we will lose the anemone. The pet store we deal
with will take back any fish, etc. we discover don't mix well. If we
know the answer to these questions we might be able to solve the problem
before it's too late. <Not life threatening, just normal behavior.
–Yunachin> Karen & Randy
Re: Anemone Activity, beh. 2-12-08 Hi Folks the
answers to your questions are below and follow **** <A little too
overstocked I think. What kind of puffer do you have?> ****The
False-eye Puffer, Canthigaster. ****** <What kind of lights are you
running and how often?> ****Two Lights both 46" ****1st Make GLO
Power GloT5 High Output 54w ****2nd Make GLO Marine Glo T5 High
Output 54w **** Both lights run 11 hrs a day.. Come on at 11am shut
off at 10pm on a timer. <Everything sounds just fine to me. Like I
said, anemones expand and contract during the day normally. They also
contract when eating a delicious meal and also while digesting. They
will also position themselves in the tank to where they will receive
ample lighting or to get away from it. If you think it is contracting
too much, cut down on the lighting in your tank and see if that helps.>
Thanks for your quick response. <You’re welcome.—Yunachin> Randy
Roaming Anemones, Zooxanthellae – 1/13/08 <Hello, Brenda here>
I need help with my anemone. <Okay> I've had it for over six years
with no problems ever. It has divided six times but recently I did an
h2o change and it was havoc. One of the guys disappeared completely. I
have a trickle down sump system with bio balls. <Bio balls can be a
nitrate factory.> I never found her anywhere. Then they all started
moving all around and haven’t stopped. <If the anemone has died in
your system, this can cause toxic ammonia levels.> The h20 I use is
always the same from a RO/carbon filter. <Is it time for the filters
to be changed?> The only difference with this h2o change was, I used
stress coat that was a little old but it didn’t stink or wasn’t even
brown. <Why did you use the stress coat? It is not needed. I would
discontinue its use.> Two of the anemones escaped and I found them in
the bio balls, one looked dead and was stinky the other one didn’t stink
but I didn’t think would live so as hard as it was I through it out.
<Yikes! I would have given it a chance. Many anemones have recovered
from incidents like this.> I then did another h2o change and all but
one stopped moving. Then the original anemone turned stark white and has
stopped moving but is still white. <It has expelled its
zooxanthellae.> My tank is not at my house due to the fact that I
don’t live on grid so I some times don’t see them for a few days and
probably don’t feed them as mush as I should. <Healthy anemones do
not need to eat everyday. However, I would feed the bleached anemone
tiny portions daily.> I don’t want to loose my host it is the home to
a mutant clownfish that I have had for 9 years. My clown fish is so mean
that it has killed every fish except a Dragon Goby. Recently I found a
matching clown fish that he accepted and lives with. My tank is very
healthy and never has any levels of anything bad I haven’t tested my ph
in awhile so I'll do that tomorrow. <All levels need to be tested
immediately.> I feel very confident in my skills and have worked at
marine labs, have a custom aquarium business and have had two salt h2o
tanks for over 10 yrs. but blah blah blah. I just want to save my
anemone and am looking for as much help as possible, can you think of
anything that I might not know or have over looked? <I need to know
more about your tank. I need to know the size, and equipment you are
using. I also need to know the amount of flow, amount of lighting, age
of bulbs, and exact water parameters including temperature, salinity,
pH, nitrate, nitrites, ammonia, calcium, and alkalinity. What do you
feed the anemones?> Thank you so much for your time. <You’re
welcome! For future reference, please correct you grammar and spelling.
I have corrected it this time, but can not continue to do so. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm Brenda>
Anemone normal behavior or do I have a problem? 11/18/07 Good
day WWM, <Hello Josie, Scott V. here.> My name is Josie. I'm
so glad your site is there for me to search; however, I am having
trouble navigating the site. I love reading through the FAQ's and
the articles but sometimes I just can't seem to find what I'm
looking for. I have a question on Anemone Behavior. First thing’s
first though. My tank equipment and parameters are as follows: 55
g show tank with 20 g sump with refugium and deep sand bed about
5-6" thick (sugar fine sand) in both the tank and the sump refugium
that has now been set up for about 6 months (we cycled the tank
using BioSpira for about 4 months before we added any inhabitants as
we wanted to ensure the parameters were stable first.) Lighting:
342 watt total with 1-150 watt HQI (10000K); 2-96 watt (Dual
460nm/420nm) actinic by Current/Sun Pac Protein Skimming:
Corallife Super Skimmer Needle Wheel 125 g Canister Filter:
Marineland Magnum 350 Pro (350 gph) (I also have PolyFilter in the
canister for phosphate removal as well as other bad stuff)
Refugium: Two bundles of Chaetomorpha and One Grape Caulerpa and
lots of copepods. <One algae will likely choke out the other in
time.> Water Circulation in Tank: 2 Hydor Koralia 2 Water
Circulation Pumps (600 gph) Tank: 90-100 lbs of live rock, 1
smooth leaf red kelp Tank Inhabitants: 1 - BTA (E.
quadricolor) 1 - Condylactis sp. Anemone <<... trouble. RMF>>
2 - small Maroon and Yellow Stripe Clownfish (observing larger one
being more matriarchal and smaller one being more the "slave") 1
- Duncanopsammia axifuga (Whisker) 6 - Nassarius snail 6 -
Dwarf Scarlet Hermit Crabs 12 - Margarita Snails 2 - Fighting
Conchs 3 - Peppermint Shrimp Tank Water Parameters:
Calcium - 380 ppm Alkalinity - 15 dKH <On the high side.>
pH - 8.2 Nitrates - 0 Nitrites - 0 Ammonia - 0 Temp -
78.8 Magnesium - 1300 ppm Maintenance Regimen: 5% Water
Change every Friday and Monday (vacuum sand every Friday) <Should
not need to vacuum the sand, only a very occasional stirring
perhaps. Your livestock list should provide quite a bit of stirring
in a 55 gal.> Clean all filter media, sponges, etc. weekly.
<Good.> Moonlights on in morning 30 min, then add actinic on for
30-45 min, then add metal halides on for 10 hours; then the MH are
turned off, 30-45 min later the actinic are turned off and then the
moonlight is turned off about an hour later. Water test for pH,
Salinity, Magnesium, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia, Calcium, Alkalinity
every Friday Supplements: Purple Up every 2 days; Liquid Calcium
daily; Iodine daily; Essential Elements weekly; Strontium &
Molybdenum every 4 days; Micro-Vert every 3 days <Not a fan of so
many supplements (especially the Purple Up). With your livestock
list your water change regimen should be sufficient for trace
element supplementation. If anything you will need calcium/Alk
additions, and only according to your test kits. The iodine can
reach toxic levels if not monitored.> Feeding Schedule: Mysis
with garlic supplement to Clownfish daily; Mysis with Phytoplankton
to whisker every 3 days; Mysis to both anemone's every 3 days <I
would feed the anemones once a week at most.> I have had a BTA in
the tank for about 3 weeks and everything seemed to be doing fine.
The Clowns have been taking great care of him and feeding him Mysis
as I fed them and then 3 days ago I added a Condy Anemone to my tank
(upon advise from the LFS as being OK. ARGH) and now the BTA has
gone into hiding and been curled up into a ball most of the time.
The clownfish are doing everything they can to take care of the BTA
and coax him out of the cave he shoved himself into. I did not know
at the time that Condy's were not necessarily a good choice for the
type of tank that I have. The two anemones have not contacted each
other; however, I'm not so stupid to think that they don't know each
other is there. At least the BTA seems to be reacting to the
addition in a negative way. Is this something that I should consider
removing the Condy and returning him to the LFS or will this pass?
Josie B <I would remove one or the other; anemones don’t play
well with others; corals or other anemones. Some water changes
should help, as well as some new carbon. I would lay off the
supplements, if you don’t test for and monitor it, I wouldn’t add
it. It makes for more work, expense and adds more paths for things
to go wrong. Water changes are the best way for trace element
addition with your livestock. Good luck Scott V.>
Re:
Anemone normal behavior or do I have a problem? 11/18/07
Hello again WWM, <Hello.> Thank you very much for your advice.
<Welcome.>I am considering purchasing the test kits for phosphate,
iodine, silica, boron, copper, strontium, and dissolved oxygen. What
are your thoughts on the electronic methods using probes instead of
the reagents? <The electronic monitors are nice, but by the time
you account for calibration times and cost you might as well stick
with traditional test kits. All the testing is generally not
necessary, especially once your tank is well established, but I am
also a nut about knowing what is in my water, it is kind of fun.>
I found a site that offers these tests in a laboratory setting:
www.aquariumwatertesting.com weekly, monthly, or one time for a
fairly nominal fee. <Interesting.>Which macroalgae would be best,
Chaetomorpha or the grape Caulerpa? I would think the Caulerpa would
be best but it seems there are mixed feelings on which is really
better, if any at all. I have ensured that it gets light 24/7 to
prevent it from going "sexual" as I have seen it called, and
disintegrating. <I personally prefer Chaetomorpha, but either
works fine.> The alkalinity is high and the only thing that I
know that I can do that will bring that down is water changes.
<Yes.> Should I do a few 10% instead of just 5% water changes?
<The amount of work is about the same. If you don’t mind the extra
expense in salt the 10% wouldn’t hurt. Keep up on the water changes,
this is where many aquarists start to slack off thinking everything
is going fine.> Thank you for the clarification on not needing to
vacuum the sand, I would much rather stir up the top a little every
once in awhile rather than vacuum it. The reason we do vacuum it is
the detritus that can accumulate on the sand and makes it, well,
unattractive. I worry that that it will harm the animals so I remove
as much of it as we can. <Good circulation and eliminating dead
spots will keep this in suspension to be filtered or skimmed out.
The idea with the DSB you have is to leave it undisturbed as much as
possible to get anaerobic activity going on in the bottom layers.>
We have considered getting a calcium reactor to minimize the amount
of calcium that we need to add and also to regulate the alkalinity a
bit better. <They are a nice addition and big investment. You
can also see good results with a two part additive such as B-Ionic
by ESV which includes most of the required trace elements.> It
might have to be an after Christmas purchase ;-) We have temporarily
moved the Condy to the refugium until tomorrow when I can take him
back to the LFS. The carbon was changed last week. We will probably
change it out tomorrow when we do the water change. Again, thank you
for the assistance. <You are welcome, I too would have chose the
BTA. Happy reefing, Scott V.> |
Anemone and a Big A** Clam are Attached! 10/22/07 Guys, <Ya
got one of the girls tonight!> Any idea how I can get a big
bubble-tip to separate off of a big clam shell that I have in my tank?
<Sometimes a little gentle persuasion with a credit card can do the
trick but you must be very careful as not to injure the foot. If you
can, under careful observation (so that the anemone doesn't get injured,
i.e. sucked into an overflow/powerhead etc, which you hopefully have
covered to prevent this in the first place or damage any other creatures
in your tank) you can figure out a way to make the anemone unhappy with
its' current location, such as shading it, you might get is to detach on
it's own.> it seems the base of the anemone has its base attached to
the shell, so my clam will only open about half-way, and it's (the clam)
just plain not looking good? <Yes, you should address this. How
can I safely get that sucker off of there? <Can be a challenge! I
wish the in-house anemone expert was available, she may have more
suggestions, but she is unavailable because of a death in her family.>
You guys are awesome! <Thank you for your kind words.> thanks,
Aaron <Welcome! Mich>
Making Friends With His Anemone!
Anemones lighting and positioning
8/13/07 My anemone, Medusa, was seemingly doing well and
perhaps he still is but he has recently moved to the top of the tank
which is obviously closer to the lighting but also closer to the
water flow from the Penguin filter. <When anemones move, they
are generally telling us that something is not right for them in
their present position. Typically, this is related to water flow
and/or lighting.> When he was in the lower position, he looked
happy and he was eating. Should I be concerned that he has moved
so close to the top? What do you think this movement means? Is he
not getting enough food? Light? <As you suspect, this is usually
a response to some parameter being not to the anemone's liking.
Observe the anemone's behavior in it's new position. In particular,
pay close attention to the animal's orientation to the lighting and
flow. Is it closing up? Is the animal trying to orient itself into
the flow, or away from it? Is the animal feeding, has color changed,
etc?> 2nd subject: Algae. I recently bought the Nova Extreme
fixture and ever since I have had an awful time with red algae on my
rocks. I've tried to limit the lighting time but that still hasn't
solved the problem. Do I need to increase the water changes?
<Typically, algae blooms are a function of nutrients in conjunction
with lighting. Increased lighting intensity and/or longer
photoperiods alone do not cause such blooms. Be sure take into
consideration the entire picture. Could your source water be high in
a nutrient that algae favors? If so, the increased lighting could
result in such a bloom. If you're using RO/DI water, do check the
membranes/prefilters to assure that they are not saturated. If they
are, of course, replacement would make a big difference. Water
changes with properly conditioned water are never a bad idea, of
course, so do keep them up. Frequent, consistent small (like 10% of
system capacity) water changes are never a bad idea.> Happily, my
water parameters are all good. Thanks in advance. My tank:
Blue Regal Tang Yellow Tang Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel
Tricolor Fairy Wrasse Royal Gramma Mandarin Dragonet
Scissortail Dartfish Redfire Shrimp Green Fluorescent
Mushrooms Sand Sifting Sea Star Snails: Bumble Bee, Super
Tongan Nassarius, Mexican Turbo, Zebra Turbo Lots of rock,
decorative and live Equipment 55 gallon, 48x12x18 Penguin
BioWheel 350 SeaClone 100 Skimmer Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures
w/Lunar Lights (48" - 216 watts) 2 SlimPaq 460nm Actinic and
2-10000°K T-5 HO lamps 18 watt turbo twist UV sterilizer <If
it were me- I'd keep up the water changes, observe the anemone
continuously, and be prepared to take action, if necessary for the
anemone. Do review those water parameters regularly (particularly
phosphate, silicate, and nitrate)...these parameters can give you
some clues about what may be causing the algae bloom. Continued
success to you! Regards, Scott F.> | 
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H. crispa... "owner" – 07/24/07 My white anemone are starting to
turn brown. What might be the cause? they were white with purple tips
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaebehfaqs.htm and the linked
files above. RMF>
Washington contacts, Clone Anemones - 7/20/07 Hey guys!
<Howdy> I'm on a trip to Seattle, and I plan on visiting the U of
Washington up there to check up on their eligibility as a school for
me to attend. I was wondering if any of you guys know a professor of
marine biology that I could speak to get to know what the marine
science programs are like at the school. Thanks for your help!
<No longer know any of the staff there... but is still regarded as
an excellent fisheries school...> PS Here's a pic of some
anemones that I saw today on the beach on the Oregon Coast...reminds
me of the tide pools back in California! <Mmm, because they
are... Anthopleura elegantissima... you are experiencing ecoclinal
variation... these actinarians are larger, more robust going
northward... Larger still off of WA. Bob Fenner>
Re: Washington contacts, Anthopleura
7/20/07 Ah, you're right! They are bigger! And it seems like
the Puget Sound's fauna is always gargantuan... <Ah, yes. The
congener A. xanthogrammica gets to about the size of small trash can
lids there... This "Giant Green Anemone" off San Diego, is
palm-sized at best. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Washington contacts
7/20/07 Yes, that is about as big as I've seen them in the
SoCal. I just came back from the Oregon Coast Aquarium and the
OSU Hatfield Marine Science Center. The aquarium reminded me of
Scripps! Excellent crustacean exhibits, especially the O. scyllarus
tank and the spiny lobster tank, oddly enough sharing space with a
Salarias blenny. A big one at that! <That or food!> The Marine
Center was quite excellent as well. A little more academic, but I
can appreciate that...looks like OSU is now a choice for some marine
bio studies! I hugely recommend these two institutions to any
visitors of the Newport / Yaquina Bay area. Good speaking to
you, Mr. Fenner. <Just Bob please. And thank you. BobF> | 
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How do I handle an Anemone? – 6/24/07 Hi <Hello, Brenda here>
I just started a SW tank up and was thinking about purchasing a BTA. Is
it ok if you touch it when you put it in the tank? Will it sting me?
What other way could I put it in? <Your tank should be six months old
minimum before adding an anemone. Anemones need established
environments. Anemones can sting you. I have been stung a few times. It
is best to wear gloves when handling an anemone. Brenda>
Hawaiian Condylactis, Anemone beh. 6/6/07 Hi there - I
recently got a Hawaiian Condy. <... Really? Have never seen this
genus out in Hawaiian waters.. nor have any authors of my works on
marine life there> It took immediately to my tank and only moved
slightly from the spot I put it (guessing that means he's happy there).
<Mmm, not necessarily> I feed him very small pieces of shrimp every
3rd day or so, which he takes without problem. I've noticed that he
seems to stay open all night, and then close up at some point in the
early morning. (I leave for work around 3:30am, he's open then; and
return around 9am when I find him closed up) Is this normal? <Can
be, yes> From what I've read on your site, anemones tend to close
when the lights go out, correct? <As a general rule, yes> My
actinic lights are on for about an hour before my daylights go on -
could he be reacting to this in some way? Any thoughts? <May simply
be acclimating to this setting... takes weeks to months...> Thanks so
much - LOVE your site, a wealth of great information! -Chris
<Please send some pix along if you would. Bob Fenner>
Shrinking Anemone – 5/13/07 Hi there, <Hello, Brenda here>
First I have a 159 gallon tank with two 150 watt metal halides and two
actinics, salinity is at 1.024 I bought an anemone a few months ago.
<You’re salinity is a bit low, gradually bring it up to 1.026.> I
think it is a Heteractis sp. <Which one?> or, gelam. <Not
sure what that one is. Your lighting is a bit low for keeping anemones
in that size tank.> It lives in a rock that I bought with the
anemone. It doesn’t look very good it seems to be shrinking and the
tentacles don’t inflate anymore. I feed it frozen brine shrimp twice a
week. <Brine shrimp has little or no nutritional value to
anemones. Try feeding it some silversides. You can also try krill, raw
frozen shrimp, Mysis shrimp, or lance fish. I suggest keeping the
silversides as its main diet. You can also try soaking the food in
Selcon for some added vitamins.> I have a clown fish that
cohabitates with the anemone. I also have been feeding it frozen
plankton. This last week it didn’t seem to hold on to the food very
well. Pleas help what is wrong with my anemone? <Sounds like you
have a few things going on here. I would definitely consider upgrading
the lighting soon. Good luck! Brenda> My new BTA is
Shrinking, Entacmaea quadricolor – 2/28/07 <Hi Josh,
Brenda here> I just got a bubble tip anemone 4 days ago on a Friday
evening. Sunday morning 10:30 it looked great, then I left and came
home around 2:00 and it was shriveled up to about 1/4 of the size and
excreting a white/clear slime. <It is expelling waste.> Also,
the mouth was enlarged and looked inverted with some curly stringy stuff
coming out. <Yikes! Is the anemones mouth tightly closed the rest
of the time?> For all practical purposes it looked about 10 minutes
away from death. <I have seen that often. I remember being in a
panic the first few times. My anemones have me trained now.> I
checked all my water parameters and everything was great, I did a 10%
water change anyway. We then left again around 4:00 and came home
around 8:30 and he looked great, completely re-inflated and actually the
overall body looked bigger than the day before. <Great!>
He did well all day Monday until about an hour after I got home and he
started shriveling up again and this time was excreting a brown
substance which I am assuming was waste. <Yes, anemone waste is not
always the same color.> He then continued to shrivel up as bad, or
worse, than Sunday morning. I though he was a goner this time for
sure. Nothing I could do at this point but to just wait it out. He was
still that way when I went to bed around 11:00. I got up the next
morning and checked him before I went to work around 6:30 and he was
completely re-inflated again and yet still looked even bigger and
perfectly healthy. What is he doing? <Possibly
acclimating to your lighting. Do you know what kind of lighting it was
kept under previously?> From what I understand, anemones don't
typically shrivel up that bad right? <Wrong, they can shrivel up to
almost nothing.> I know it is hard diagnosing without a picture.
<Yes, but we still try.> I don't know if it is just still
acclimating to my tank or what. <Yes, it is likely still
acclimating to its new home, but will still expel waste from time to
time.> Does the anemone coming back what seems bigger each time have
any significance? <Not necessarily, would need to see a picture. My
guess is that it is still part of the acclimation process.> I have
yet not even seen a picture on the web with one shriveled up as bad as
mine was. <I can fix that. http://www.karensroseanemones.com/deflating.htm Great
website! Be sure to read through all of it.> Any ideas?
<Most of what I’m reading seems normal. The curly white appendages you
are seeing, is not typically seen externally on an anemone. Are you
over feeding? I suggest meaty foods, no bigger than the anemones mouth
2 – 3 times a week. Make sure you have adequate lighting, filtration,
and water parameters. Also make sure your anemones color is up to par,
meaning no loss of zooxanthellae. If you have any more problems or
questions, please give us your exact water parameters, including
salinity and temperature along with your equipment list, age of your
setup, other tank mates, and a picture if possible.> Any help would
be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much - your website is extremely
helpful for so many other things I want to learn about. Josh
<You’re welcome! Good luck with your new anemone! Brenda>
Sea Anemones/Acclimation 2/16/07 Hi guys, Hi Billy> I
have recently placed two sea anemones in my reef tank. They are lying
on their side, and one looks like its fingers have been sucked dry.
Will they puff back out and stand up. <If water conditions/lighting
are to their liking, they should soon bloom. Going through an
acclimation stage right now. Do search Sea Anemones on the wet web for
more info. I'd post a link here, but that file doesn't want to come
up right now.> Thank for all your help <You're welcome. James
(Salty Dog)> Billy Disappearing anemone
12/11/06 Hello <Hey Kirsty, JustinN with you today.>
Recently I purchased an anemone, a week or so later it split in two.
<Not uncommon for an anemone to split, but it usually doesn't occur this
quickly..> We knew they did that, but we noticed yesterday that one
half of the anemone had disappeared, it was no where to be seen.
<Curious> I have woken this morning to find that the other one has
gone. Could something have eaten it. All we have in the tank is a
shrimp, two clowns, Fiji devil and a possum fish. Do they disappear?
<Mmm, no> Kirsty <If I were to guess at the cause here, I would
assume that either conditions in your tank, or initial shipping alone,
was problematic for the anemone, causing stress. This led to the early
splitting of the anemone, and subsequently, both halves likely were
already on the downfall at that point. After dying, they could have been
consumed as well. Are you testing for toxin levels in the water? These
may tell you more than looking would... Hope this help! -JustinN> <<Mmm,
could be "hiding" as well... RMF>>
Is anemone looking for a
fight 11/28/06 Hello everyone, DiAnn here.
<Greetings to you! Mich here.> First the basics: 55 gal tank, approx
45 lbs of live rock; live substrate; bio-filters; protein skimmer; UV
sterilizer with Fluval filter; ammonia, nitrate and nitrite 0; ph 8.3;
alkalinity 8; temp between 79-80 degrees. <OK> Livestock: 1 yellow
tang; 2 percula clowns, 1 rusty angel, 1 cleaner shrimp and 1 coral
banded shrimp; also, anemone (I assume some type of long tentacled) live
rock with green star coral and one bunch of pulse coral (all doing
fine,) My question: the anemone which seems to be getting bigger by the
week seems to be slowly making its way toward the star coral <Not
uncommon, it may grow quickly, it may act strange and then cleave itself
into. It may be perfectly content where it's at, but one day it may
decide to wander around your tank...sometimes with very unpleasant
results...have seen overflows blocked and entire systems wiped out.> Is
it looking for a flight <What airline services your tank? It will win
any fight, and may relocate at any time>. Should I move the star coral
to another part of the tank? <Yes, but realize the anemone can go any
where it wants.> Any information regarding this problem would be greatly
appreciated. <Please keep reading, start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Thanks. <You're welcome.> Anemone mouth
missing, no useful info. 8/22/06 This morning I
checked on our anemone and found it looked like a donut. The mouth was
missing. <Mmm, just folded in on itself> I thought it was dead
and reached it to take it out and it closed up. Is it splitting?
<Not likely> It has been having problems. Bleached color. I research
your web site and found my lighting was wrong. The fish store people
were more than happy to sell me a better lighting system and apologized
for telling me I only need a skimmer. I am now not sure how bad the
anemone is damaged and if it will survive. Thanks for any info you can
provide and thanks for a great website. <... not much to go on here.
Not even the species of anemone involved, water quality, set-up notes,
the old/new types of lighting... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Anemone Beh.
8/18/06 WWM Crew, Howdy from Alaska, I have a question in
reference to a E. quadricolor. I have had this anemone for a little
over a year, it has grown very well, and play host to a A. frenatus,
Tomato clown. Yesterday I found a detached tentacle on the bottom of
the tank and one floating in the water (still inflated). Overall health
of the anemone is normal, i.e.. color, attached, eating. My question is
simple, why? Could this be a form of propagation, a initial turn
towards death, or just something that happens every now and then that is
unexplained behavior? Water quality is fine, and lighting adequate.
Thanks, Bryan <Mmm, have seen anemones "excise" tentacles at
times... don't think this has a reproductive function/aspect to it... as
not "enough" mesoderm is transmitted to form a G.I. tract, no pedicle...
Might be somewhat akin to some lizards tails... a reactionary behavior
to predation. Bob Fenner> How sticky should an Anemone be?
6/25/06 - I have a 75g tank, 50lbs LR, all water params good
for an anemone. The tank is approaching 6 months old, and everything is
very stable. I picked up two green BTA’s last week – they look
great, moved around a bit but settled in after 2 days and haven’t moved
in about 3 days. They look full, respond by retracting when I have
to reach in the tank, etc. I’ve waited a bit to feed them (as I’ve
read on other sites), but since have tried several times to give them
frozen squid bits as suggested by the LFS. The pieces are small
(under ¼”), and thawed. The bits of food seemed to stay
within the tentacles for a bit, but eventually floated away. Today I
tried thawed Mysis, soaked in garlic flavor enhancer – given to them
gently with a baster. Most of it just floated away, even after making
contact with the tentacles. Some of it seems to have stuck to the bottom
of the disc, and now they’re retracting a bit, I assume to work the food
towards their mouths. 1) Should the food be sticking better to the
tentacles, 2) if so, is this problem a sign of a) bad health, or b)
acclimating to my tank? TYVM! Scott S. <<Scott: It can take
several days for an anemone to adapt to your tank. During that time,
they may not be that interested in eating. BTA's are nowhere near as
sticky as other types of anemones. In the past, if my BTA's were not
too interested in food, I have placed a small chuck of food (say a part
of a silverside) right into the oral disk. Usually, the anemone will
retract and consume the food. You can try to feed them a little bit
every day until you are confident that they are eating regularly. Most
likely, you don't have anything to worry about. I feed my anemones
about 1/2 of a silverside every few days. Best of luck, Roy>>
Anemone excreting stuff - 06/22/2006 Hi < Hello! >
We have a long tentacle anemone in a 40 gallon reef tank. We
successfully are keeping alive 2 other anemones', several fish and
invertebrates. The water levels are all excellent and we do water
changes once a week or once every 2 weeks. < Sounds like good
husbandry to me. > He seems to be healthy, eats well, is staying put
in his little spot between rocks. But, a few times now, he seems to
throw up. < Definitely not an attractive bodily function, (not that
many are!) > This bubble, about the size of a quarter is secreted
from his mouth. It looks brownish-pinkish, it is like a bubble gum
bubble. Like a mucus bubble, but with water inside. We have this
white with black dots crab that lives on him and cleans him. He eats
this stuff when it comes out, so it's not there for long. I think he
has done this 3 times in 3 weeks. Do you know what this is a sign of?
< It is most likely defecation or regurgitation of uneaten or
unprocessed food. It is a fairly natural occurrence, if you have not
noticed this action/reaction before from your other anemones, it may
just be that the quantity of food this particular anemone is getting is
too much! > <<There may be something going on twixt these anemone
species... not compatible in this size volume. RMF>> Thank you! <
I hope I was of some help. RichardB > Thank you, Sarah
Leslie Re: Anemone excreting stuff 6/26/06
This puts me at ease. I truly appreciate you taking the time to respond
to my email. < You are very welcome! > Your site is great!!!
< I cannot take credit for it, these guys do a great job around here! >
thanks again Sarah < Anytime! RichardB > Green BTA
Triple Split - 03/12/2006 Hi guys! <Robin> Two
months ago I bought my first anemone, a 6-7 inch diameter Green Bubble
Tip Anemone. I've been feeding him/it a thawed Formula One gel cube
about once every three days and he has seemed pretty happy. I did
the usual 20% bi-monthly water change over the weekend and it was
uneventful, but now in the past 24 hours something interesting has
happened to him. When I went to do the usual B-Ionic dosing this morning
I discovered that overnight my BTA had split in two! <Happens> I
thought to my self, "Cool!" and went off to work. Gotta pay for this
aquatic addiction after all. When I got home from work tonight I was
very surprised to see that I now have THREE anemones! <Bonus!>
The larger of the two clones had split again. Have you ever heard of a
BTA splitting itself into thirds like this? <Yes... usually under
some "stressful" cue...> Am I correct to assume that my anemone
reproducing like this means I'm really starting to get the hang of this
reef tank thing? <Mmm, actually the opposite... this "fission" is
most often a "means" or function of dangerous influence reaction... the
animal dividing to "hopefully" (teleological but instructive), live by
"doubling its chances" in two varying environments. Bob Fenner>
Thanks! Robin
Anemones/Behavior 2/18/06 Hi,
<Hello Dori> I have been reading non stop about anemones and have
been unable to locate the information I need. Could be panic is setting
in? <Maybe.> Anyway, I hope you can help. I have had this bubble
tip anemone for a few months and after the first week of adjustment he
settled in quite nicely and the clowns took up residence. About two
weeks ago he began to behave differently. His tips shriveled and his
mouth extended. He would close up and later emerge, mouth ok, but his
tips never achieved their original form. A few days ago he decided to
relocate, and has not stopped since. He has made his way all around the
tank and up the glass to the top. He is currently hanging upside down on
the front glass part of the tank. ok - I stand corrected - he just
launched himself. He is not torn, nor is he oozing anything. his mouth
is relatively tight and his tips are very tiny now. Is
he dying? should I remove him to prevent the rest of the tank from
issues? the clowns still follow him most of the time, but on occasion
they hang out in the torch. (so much for loyalty). <Dori, when anemones
are on the move it generally indicates they are not happy with the
conditions present. It may be lighting, water quality, too small of a
tank creating constant parameter shifts, etc. Provide a little more
info please. A good article for you to read on BTAs. Gives some
insight as to keeping BTAs.> Any advice? Thanks in advance
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Dori
Anemone on it's
Side... need ID, info... 2/7/06 Hello, We
recently, two weeks ago, purchased an anemone for our aquarium that
has been set up for over a year. In the shop, it looked great. It
was embedded in the sand and the owner of the store took great care in
removing it from the tank. <Good> Once we got it home, we put
in in our tank and just waited. For two days he embedded himself in
the sand, just like in the shop. Then on the third day, he came up and
began laying on his side. <Not good> He's still as beautiful as
on the first day, not shriveled up or anything. We have feed him only
twice since we've had him. He eats readily and seems to enjoy being in
with our clown fish, but he only lays on his side. We have sent our
water for testing and we have better water quality then in the
shop!! Yeah for us!! Our lighting is also suffice. The store owner
says that anemones are sometimes picky, <Yes> but since it's
eating and not dying, we shouldn't worry. I would just feel better if
it found a spot and took root. Any ideas? Thanks Brian <...
see WWM re Identification... need to know the species here... its
preferences, habitat in the wild... and match it. Bob Fenner>
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