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FAQs about Fans for Chilling Marine Aquariums

Related Articles: Marine Tank Heating, Cool/Coldwater Marine Systems

Related FAQs: Chilling 1, Chilling 2, & FAQs on: Chiller Rationale/Use, Selection, DIY, Installation, Maintenance, Troubleshooting, & Cool./Cold Marine Set-Up, Heating, Water TemperatureMetal Halide Heat Issues,


Water Temp Issue and Evaporation -- 09/27/11
<<Hey John>>
I had a question about my set up.
It's a 55gallon saltwater aquarium with a 20 gal sump underneath. I have a protein skimmer with a Rio 2100 and a return pump with a Rio 2100. I also have 3 small circulation pumps (250-425 gph each) inside the main tank. I have 4 Power compacts at 65w each running from 7am to 7pm. And 4 computer fans set up to try and cool down the system. The temperature with the fans ON is normally 80 to 82 degrees. Is it normal for me to have to add about a gallon of water a day to keep the water level the same?
<<It is normal to need to add freshwater to replace that which evaporates, yes'¦the volume required will vary from system to system based on size, amount of exposed surface area (display, sump, etc.), air movement across this area, room temperature and humidity level, et al. While it may seem like a lot, a gallon-a-day for a system like yours is not anything to be alarmed about>>
I want to cool it down more but can't afford the chiller right now... I have an external pump on the way to replace the return pump in the sump tank, hoping that it'll drop the temperature some more.
<<Maybe'¦maybe not (depends much on the pump)'¦and then there's the trade-off in noise (again, depending on the pump). A better solution may have been to get a 'better' submersible pump like those offered by Eheim>>
Any help with temp and water evaporation issue would be appreciated!
<<Do realize that it is the evaporation that 'is helping' with your tank's water temperature (evaporative cooling). I am hesitant to recommend reducing water pumps/flow, or photo-period'¦using the fans to keep the water temperature in the 80F-82F range is quite acceptable, in my opinion'¦and short of utilizing a chiller device, is about the best you expect here I think>>
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Re: Water Temp Issue and Evaporation -- 09/27/11

Why is Eheim "better" as far as temperature/heat transfer?
<<Very well made/efficient (watts per gph)'¦low heat transfer in my experience. May or may not be a better choice, depending on the external pump you are considering'¦just another option to consider. EricR>

Ballast/Canopy Cooling Fan 7/1/2011
Hi Crew and Happy 4th!
<Hello Tim>
My Hamilton electronic ballast quit on me this week it was about 7 years old. It had 6 prong plug on it and ran my one 175w lamp and one cooling fan in a hanging oak canopy.
They do not make this kind anymore so I am going to Premium Aquatics tomorrow and get a new Vertex ballast, I have been talking to them through email. I have done some electrical work but not on this type of wiring.
Will I be able to run my fan with this ballast, like bypass it?
<The cooling fan is not controlled by the ballast unless the ballast was built with a 115V or 24VDC fan output determined by the operating voltage of the fan.>
Is this going to be a major wiring job?
<No, the Vertex ballast comes with a quick disconnect lamp cord. All you should need to do is wire the end of the cord to the mogul socket, a two wire connection.
You can see this here.
http://www.vertexaquaristik.com/Products/Lighting/MetalHalide/Ballasts/175WElectronicBallast.aspx >
I am stressing, my tank has never looked so good and this happens.
<No need to stress.>
What other options should I look at. I have been on line looking at DIY wiring a ballast, but not finding much help.
<Will all be explained to you at Premium Aquatics. May want to ask for Jeremy when you arrive, I talk with him often.>
I also have 2 actinic 65w PCs in the canopy, so I do have at least some light. This happened on Tuesday. I am going to take the reflector out in the morning and look at the wiring. I emailed Hamilton the other day, no response and looked at the vertex web site, but they do not have a help line.
<I see this, they do tell you to contact an authorized Vertex dealer which would be Premium Aquatics.>
Thank you so much for your time,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Fan on new Lighting Fixture is loud 3/26/09
I just replaced my 196watt pc light with a Nova Extreme HO T5 model 1121, which is 156 watts.
<Ah, a nice swap.>
It is on my 40 gallon salt water tank. The fan in the Nova Extreme is significantly louder than my prior set-up. I'm in the next room, and I can hear it, even though the TV is on in the aquarium room.
The dealer said that fans are getting louder to save the life on ballasts.
My thought is to remove the fan, and replace it with a 3 1/8inch IceCap fan that blows 19-37 CFM. The IceCap is variable speed off of a temperature probe. Ice cap also makes a 4 3/4inch 50-112cfm fan, but that might be a bit too large. I'd have to open up the housing of the light fixture a bit, but I'm good with Bondo. I would prefer aesthetically to blow it towards my
back wall 12 inches away, or I could mount it on the top of the fixture and blow the fan straight up.
<Either will work, the idea is just to keep the air moving around the ballast.>
We have central air, so the room never gets too hot in the summer.  Would this work to keep the ballasts cool enough?
<I do believe so. But for what it is worth I encourage you to contact Current USA directly to see what they think first.>
-John in Connecticut
<Scott V. in Cozumel Mex. for the time being.>

Cooling Fans & Green Mandarin -- 07/15/08 Hello Crew, <<Hiya Frank>> Your info has always helped me out. <<We are pleased to know this>> Thanks for a great Site. <<Quite welcome>> One question is with placing cooling fans in the canopy of my 125G tank. <<Okay>> Currently running metal halides, compact fluorescents, and T-5s. I have 3 clip-on fans that barely fit in the canopy and keep the canopy top open to keep the temp around 76-78 during these summer months. <<I see>> I am planning on buying a low-voltage transformer and wiring pc fans to keep it cool, quiet and keep the canopy top down to look good. <<Ah yes'¦I use a 12v outdoor-lighting transformer to power some computer fans for this purpose>> I was wondering if about a dozen or so fans can be supported by a 150watt 12v low-voltage transformer, or will I need a larger watt capacity transformer? <<That depends on the fans and their consumption requirements, but very likely the 150w transformer will be fine. Figure your transformer has about 12.5 amps of capacity (watts / volts = amps), that means that all the fans will need to 'total' less than 12.5 amps in consumption. Most 12v fans will have their power requirement indicated in milliamps (mA), with 1000-milliamps equaling 1-amp. These power ratings are quite variable even among fans of the same size so you will need to look around for fans to suit (try MPJA.com), and be aware those power ratings will probably relate to how much air movement and noise the fan makes. And something I have discovered that may be of interest is 'not all' Computer/PC fans will run on a common low-voltage power transformer. I don't know why, but I have a couple fans that will only power up when I connect them to my lab-style bench top power supply. But luckily, most of the fans I've purchased have run just fine on the low-voltage lighting transformers I use around my tank>> Second question is that I was thinking about getting a Green Mandarin. The specs of my tank are.......I've got a 125G tank with 46G sump. About 70lbs of live rock and a 3-4inch DSB. My tank has been up and running for nearly 9months. I already have a Scooter Blenny that has thrived in the 5 months he's been in there. <<Mmm'¦and will be a serious food competitor, and maybe even an aggressor, to the Green Mandarin>> I understand that Mandarins eat pods and other small organisms that live within the sand and rock. I have a 28G tank that I used for Quarantine, but haven't bought a fish in months. In that tank, I have a 4inch sand bed and about 3lbs of live rock. There are a ton of organisms including pods in that tank. I will normally scatter food and watch them appear in the daytime to gather food. I know that Mandarins can completely and possibly go through their food source in my main tank. <<In short order, yes'¦compounded already by the presence of the of the Scooter Blenny>> Would this work..........to rotate about 3-5 small 1-2lbs pieces of live rock from my main tank to the 28G so that the life in the 28G would move/populate to these rocks and feed the mandarin in the live tank? <<It would help'¦but it would be much better to plumb this impromptu refugium in to the display system to allow a 'constant' influx of food organisms and their progeny>> I have a super small area in my sump that I use as a Refugium with lots of Chaeto, DSB. But I don't think it would supply too much if any pods since they would be killed by passing through my pump. <<This is not the problem many think, most small organisms make it through the pump just fine'¦and even those that don't still provide benefit/are consumed. The real issue is the size and the refugiums capacity to support the display'¦best to add a larger refugium>> So do you think that my 28G tank would work good as a surrogate Refugium to help a Mandarin? <<It will help, yes'¦better so if directly plumbed>> Thanks you guys/gals Frank X Meadors <<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

Fans And Wiring And Moisture, Oh My!...Using 12v Computer Fans For Aquarium Applications -- 08/01/07 Hey everyone, <<Hey there, whoever you are!...EricR here>> Eric Russell had written this in response to someone's question regarding fans: *<<In fact I would forgo the IceCap fans altogether and use 12v 'computer' fans. You can usually get a 4' fan for five-bucks or less on the NET'¦and in my experience, they usually outlast the 110v fans (I have a couple that are going on 4-years running 24/7). As for a power source, an 88-watt low-voltage lighting transformer ($30 or less) will run several 4' 12v fans with ease>>* <<Ah yes, indeed I did...>> Where do I find a lighting transformer thing, and where would I find out information about wiring it to computer fans?? <<Well...the lighting transformer 'thing' can be picked up at any hardware store or home center that sells 'outdoor' lighting. If you only want to run a couple fans you may want to consider the smaller plug-in 'power converters' you can pick up for a few bucks apiece at an online vendor like MPJA (http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=366). Wiring up the fans is pretty basic as long as your fan only has two leads coming from it. If the fan has more than two leads, you can sometimes obtain 'adapter' fittings (often from the same source where you get the fans) to reduce the leads to two, or you can experiment with the wires until you find the right combination. The 12v fans are 'directional' in that the current has to travel a certain 'direction' through the motor. If the fan doesn't run or it runs backwards after you hook it up, try reversing the leads. Also, make sure you match your 12v transformer to your 12v fans. If you purchase a transformer intended for outdoor lighting you should have plenty of juice to power a handful of small 12v fans, but if you purchase the smaller 'individual' power converters make sure you match (or exceed) the 'output' of the transformer to the 'current draw' of the fan>> Also, will computer fans be "moisture resistant" to use in the canopy and stand sections?? <<Longevity will depend much on the quality of the fans themselves. Obtaining fans with ball-bearings as opposed to roller-bearings may increase life...and though I've yet to try them, the 'levitated' fans that run suspended in a magnetic field may be even better. I have a couple ball-bearing fans mounted under my tank behind 'closed doors' with a 55g refugium and 75g sump that have run non-stop for years. I have others mounted atop the tank that need replacement on about a yearly basis. It seems the 'humidity' of the stand is less harsh on them than the heat and 'dust' encountered above the tank and under the lights>> I know the aquarium specific brands of fans (like IceCap) say they are fine to use with salt-water applications, but not sure if that is just marketing talk or a real concern! <<The 12v fans are much safer around 'any' water in my opinion and have proven quite efficient/reliable in my experience...and most will be much quieter than the 120v fans, though there is usually some tradeoff in power/air flow>> Thank you so much! <<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

Cool Tank... You've Got a Fan!  7/10/07 Hello Bob & Crew, <You would have & Crew today.> For what it's worth... <Your 2 cents?> At the risk of being arrogant enough to think that I might have found something that everyone else hasn't already, (less than six months into this) I wanted to offer this to you first. You can decide if I may actually the last person on the planet to figure this out. I certainly realize that I am not the first but who knows who might be able to use this idea. <Heehee!> I was having a great deal of trouble keeping my tank cool in the seasonal heat. I was keeping the entire house air conditioned to a very cool temp just to keep from boiling the fish. The tank would always remain many degrees higher than room temp (yes, I unplugged the heater and checked pump motors etc.) and I was about to take the expensive plunge into a chiller when it hit me. <The chiller hit you? Bad chiller! Bad!> I simply took a common household fan (approx 16" dia) and positioned it on an angle so that it would blow across the long front side of my 72gal and one short side at the same time. Problem solved! The tank is now maintaining consistent temps around 77deg without all the swings that accompany the outside temp! <Excellent! Glad to hear this worked for you!> I am also saving a pile of money in electricity not having to freeze my whole house and family with the A/C to make sure the Clowns are comfy. <Honey... Where's the wool sweaters?> Hey, maybe I am the last to figure this out, but if one person needs this simple idea... then I guess he/she will now hold that title. Just thought I would throw that one out there since I hadn't read it anywhere. I had only read about expensive chillers. <Fans are often incorporated into many lighting units and some people will run them over the top of the tank or the sump for cooling... but this tends to increase evaporation rates. Your idea is quite good and has been used by others, but is certainly worth mentioning here, especially during these, the glorious (IMO, 95F and humid is fine by me!) "dog days" of summer.> Thanks for the site. <On behalf of Bob and the rest of the crew you are quite welcome!> My fish thank you. <This is nice to hear! We are happy to make a difference!> Mike <Cheers, Mich, who is soaking in the wonderful warm weather!>

Tank Cooling'¦How/Where to Mount the Fans? -- 04/08/07 Most of the answers on the site about MH lighting and heat involve canopies, which I am not using.  It's a bare glass top between the lighting and the water. <<Mmm, I suggest removing the glass top'¦will aid/benefit gas exchange, as well as assist cooling through increased evaporation>> Should be a simpler problem, except that I don't have the fan mounting choices described in your answers. <<A bit more detail here would better help me to help you>> Like everyone else, I want to go with fans rather than a chiller. <<Understandable (lower initial cost/power consumption) I am ordering a Current USA Outer Orbit 48" fixture with 2x150W HQI MH, 4x54W actinic (or 2x130W - there seems to be a choice), and 18 LEDs.  Of course, it comes with a fan installed. <<Indeed>> I intend to suspend it about 10" over the 72 gallon Oceanic bowfront reef aquarium with fish, anemones, soft corals, SPS, an oyster, crabs, snails, urchins, sponge, and a variety of organisms that pop up out of the live rocks. <<Have you read through our info re anemone systems/mixing with sessile invertebrates?  Not recommended'¦>> The system includes a 25 gallon CPR refugium with skimmer and a 10 gallon sump.  I am concerned about heat, because in the summer my old Current USA Dual Satellite pumped the temperature above 80 F. <<A 'couple' degrees increase here would not be a concern'¦in my opinion>> I put several frozen water bottles into the sump, but I had to do this about twice a day.   <<Yes'¦often effective but tedious>> The 4" Icecap heat-sensing fans are an attractive addition to push air in and pull it out, but where and how should I mount them? <<A couple mounted at either end of the tank to blow across the surface would help (after you remove the glass top), as well as mounting one or two to blow across the surfaces of the refugium and sump.  I don't know enough about your setup to be specific about mounting options, but if you or someone you know is handy with acrylic it's fairly easy to create some type of mounting apparatus>> I'm not certain that sump cooling by fan would suffice, and I don't see how the heat-sensing probes would work there. <<Honestly mate, I would forgo messing with/paying for any 'temperature sensing' apparatus re the fans.  In fact I would forgo the IceCap fans altogether and use 12v 'computer' fans.  You can usually get a 4' fans for five-bucks or less on the NET'¦and in my experience, they usually outlast the 110v fans (I have a couple that are going on 4-years running 24/7). As for a power source, an 88-watt low-voltage lighting transformer ($30 or less) will run several 4' 12v fans with ease>> The idea of two bare fans mounted somewhere at each end of the tank is not aesthetically appealing. <<I see>> Suspending them from the fixture is the only option I've thought of. Richard C. Rockwell <<Another option, yes'¦but will require fashioning some type of fan mount.  The most simple would be a piece of acrylic (or even thin plywood) drilled with a large hole to fit the diameter of the fan and with a 'lip' to allow affixing to the light fixture.  Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: Tank Cooling...How/Where to Mount the Fans? 04/09/07 Thanks for replying so quickly -- on a holiday! <<Quite welcome>> I'll read up on anemones and sessile invertebrates, and on removing the glass top and suicidal species.  Great site! <<Indeed...much information/experience/shared knowledge for the taking/learning.  EricR>>

- Temp Activated Fans - Hey guys!  I'm not sure who will be reading this but I want you all to know that this site is the best source of information anywhere. <Glad you find it useful.> I own a 90 gallon reef aquarium that I struggle to keep cool during the summer months.  I have taken your advise and purchased muffin fans which do a surprisingly good job of lowering the temp; however, I have seen them lower it by too much as well.  I was wondering, is there any product that monitors the water temp and controls when the fans turn on and off? <I've only seen variable speed fans as yet.> I have noticed that there is a similar setup being used in the world of water-cooled personal computers.  A device called a 'thermistor'  monitors the water temperature and then turns the cooling fan on when it gets too warm and off when it gets cool. <Yeah... too bad they're not up to the saltwater environment.> Is there something out there for us fish guys? <Hmm... well there are combined heater/chiller controllers which aren't exactly cheap... you could use one of these to turn on the fans rather than a chiller, and it would modulate the heater and fans as needed. Otherwise...> If there's not, could you invent one? ( : <Just need some funds for design... perhaps you can provide some investment capital? ;-) > (I'm currently building a water return manifold like the one that Anthony Calfo designed.) Thanks for all the help you guys give! - Chad <Cheers, J -- >

Cooling fans 6/31/05 Hello this morning.<Good day!> I have installed a fan in for my reef tank in my cabinet. The question is what direction should the flow be? I'm I supposed to draw cold cold air in or exhaust hot air out?<Fans help keep the tank temperature down in two ways. The air movement moves heat away from the tank and increases evaporation thereby cooling the tank. If you installed the fan in the cabinet (as opposed to the hood or canopy) and you have a sump or refugium, you might consider aiming the fan at the water in the sump/refugium to speed up evaporation. If you installed a single fan in the hood/canopy, you should probably exhaust the hot air out. If you install two fans in the canopy, you could use one to pull cooler air in and the other to exhaust warm air.> Thank you Stephan <You're welcome - Ted>

Re: Green Hair Algae, Rebecca's input re cooling fan and moon light sources 7/28/05 Thanks a million, Bob.  I wish I could give you a big hug! <Consider yourself hugged in return> FYI, here are my fans: http://stores.ebay.com/Windydayzz and my moon lights: http://stores.ebay.com/Fishbowl-Innovations I'm extremely pleased with the quality and design of both, as well as great service, and would recommend them. Rebecca L. Dishman <Outstanding. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner> Cooling fan CFM vs. exhaust fan CFM 8/9/05 Hello Air-Cooled Reef Guru : I took a furnace fan and situated it so that it vigorously blows across the surface of my uncovered 100 gallon reef. Normally, it's been running kind of hot (around 86-87 F) with the inside house temp around 78-79. <Yikes... a bit too warm... you may be a candidate for a chiller... if you've tried all other means...> Turning the house AC off and this furnace fan on yielded amazing results. In just 90 minutes the tank temp dropped to 81, which is what the house temp rose to. <Good> ( In hindsight, this rapid of a change might have been too stressful to tank critters - oops, note to self. ) <Yes> Of course, the house humidity level rose quite high. Besides the cost of running this fan (it uses 750 watts !!! ) <Yeeikes> I obviously need to find a way to vent house (or more accurately, fish-room) air to the outside, else the humidity level would rise too high and prevent further cooling (when the dew point, I believe it's called, is reached.) <You are correct> It would also be nice not to have a mold factory take over my fish room. <Yes> My question is this : from experience or math, what is the rate at which I should vent this humid air out ? I'm looking for a ratio I guess, say 1 CFM per every 5 or 10 CFM the cooling fan puts out. <Mmm, well... the change-out is more a percent of the total volume of the house, room... fifty percent per hour is likely a high level to shoot for here> Thanks for any help - SLC <I would look into smaller fans to run over your water, in an enclosed canopy, modifying your light-period during the warmer months... or even a chiller... Bob Fenner> How to cool a tank?  9/29/05 Hi there, I am having trouble with the temperature of my 75 gallon tank, now I have just started it and there is nothing in it yet (except some live sand) . The temperature constantly reads 82 degrees and above, my thermometer is a stick on, and I have it located in the middle of my tank. We haven't bought any temperature devices yet (heater, chiller etc.) because we are wondering if there is another way to solve this problem, or if it is OK? < That is a little high. > I was looking into chillers on the web, WOAH I didn't expect them to be that expensive, do you know of any relatively cheap but effective chilling unit. <Absolutely.  Very few aquarists use chillers. > Also I just purchased a digital thermometer to make sure the reading is correct. The tank gets about 1100 gallons per hour I think it is (if this matters to the temperature). Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated. < I'll bet the heat is all from lighting.  It usually is.  The easiest and most popular way to cool the tank is by use of fans.  Most people use clip on fans from Wal Mart.  They are under $10 and two of them will do an amazing job of evaporative cooling.  Try having them turn on and off with your lights.  You should see a noticeable temperature change in just a couple days. > P.S GREAT website         Clare <  Blundell  > Cooling Fans   4/21/06 Hi I was thinking about getting a couple of the 120mm fans for my tank with the summer coming.  However since they are meant to plug into a computer, <Mmm, not all> I was wondering if any of you had any instructions on how to wire fans together into a regular AC plug.  Any help that you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Danielle <Can be wired in series with your lighting... or to separate timers... even to thermal switches... See your dealer or "electronics" outlet re. Bob Fenner> Fan cooling Will do! BTW, how exactly do you blow fans across the top of the water on a sealed tank? Thanks for help! BH <Well- that presents a challenge, doesn't it? I'd do one of two things: Open the top a bit and blow in air from above, or (and this is what I was inferring) I'd place the fan over the sump (assuming you use one). Hope this helps!  Scott F.>

Thermoelectric Heater/Chiller Dear WWM crew, Do you guys have any comments/insight into the thermoelectric heater/chiller like the one advertised in the Drs. Foster and Smith catalog?  I have a 55 + gallon flat back hex acrylic tank with a hood and three 23" power compacts.  The temp hovers at around 84 F. The tank is pre-drilled and is powered by an Iwaki pump with a mechanical, carbon, and UV (which I'm not currently using) Rainbow canister filters.  There is no practical way for me to implement the usual "cooling" methods, but I don't want to spend $700.  The DIY plans seem sketchy.  Any suggestions? <Yes. Many times aquarists seem to think in order to get fans to work that you gotta have your canopy drilled etc. Hogwash! Is the back of the canopy open? Yes? Then go to a computer store and get two of those $13-20 fans and put one on either side of the tank and blowing across the water. Put them on a timer so they will stay on as long as your lights. If the top of your tank is open, you can mount the fans on the back of the canopy. This will save you $700 which you really don't need to spend...and it works! More than likely, this will get your tank under 80F.> Thanks guys, Stu <You're welcome! I hope this helped...David Dowless>

Losing His Top So He Can Keep His Cool? Hi Crew, <Scott F. here for you> I have a question about some things I've read here. I currently can't get my 75 gallon tank with a SmartLite PC 50% 10,000K daylight and 50% actinic, and a MagDrive 950 IN the sump to cool down. The tank is heating up to 81 without running the heater. From what I've read I should remove the glass top from the tank to allow for more airflow. Is this correct? <Well, yes, it will help with oxygen exchange, as well as cooling, but you will have a noticeable increase in evaporation! You could also place some fans in the lighting canopy, or even blowing across the water in the sump to help move some heat out of there> If so I've heard gobies sometimes try to jump out. Since this is one of the fish I'd like to have in my long term plans is there something else I should cover the tank with? <How about using some egg-crate material, cut to the size of the cutouts on your tank? You'll get great gas exchange, all of the cooling benefits of the open top tank, and keep your goby from becoming reef jerky! It will diffuse some of the light from the top, however, so keep this in mind> Thanks for all of your help, Dave PS. Order Mr. Fenner's book, should be here next week! <You're gonna love that book...mine is absolutely thrashed from re-reading it so many times! Thanks for stopping by! Regards, Scott F>

Fan Cooling Hello guys, <Hello again Bryan, PF still with you> I have some questions tonight.  First about heat in a tank.  I have a 75 gallon tank with a stand and canopy.  In the stand is my sump that contains my Euro Reef skimmer and heater.  The pump is a CSL velocity T4.  The temp in my tank stays around 78.6 to 80.1 (not bad...but I would like around 77 -79)  I know the pump puts off some heat, and possibly the in sump skimmer and pump. <Yes, yes, and yes> So I was doing some researching and have decided to add a couple fans in the stand to help w/ temp control. <I think you would get better results with small fans in the hood> Here is my question.  What is the best/appropriate way to place the fans.  I read about placing one fan blowing across the water in sump and one blowing directly onto my pump.  Then as I was going thru the F&Q's there was a lot of answers about turning the fan to suck the warm air out.  I'm a little confused on what to do, please help clarify. Also I am looking to put 2 5" Orion fans into the canopy to cool the lighting ( using 265W PC... they get pretty hot)  I was going to blow air into the canopy per advice on reef central but again I am a little confused on what to do. <From all I've seen/read/heard it's better to have the fans blowing air in. This will not only cool the lights directly, but will also have an evaporative effect on the tank. Unless you're having heat problems, I wouldn't put a fan directly in the sump, but instead rely on the fans in the canopy. Hopefully that clears things up.> Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks Bryan <You're welcome, have a good night, PF>

-McGuivering a cooling device- Hi : (This is for the temp-control-plumbing guru on staff tonight) <Hmmm... well, how 'bout me instead? :) > I'd like to know if there is a commercial device, or DIY plans to make one, that cools marine tanks down to room temps. by using simple heat sink physics, i.e. how a car radiator works. <There's a product called an Ice Probe chiller which is a bulkhead mounted heat sink with a small fan on it. Unfortunately they're really small and impractical for larger tanks.> I keep the house at a constant 78 degrees year round, but my tank of course hovers about 3-4 degrees above that due to the heat released by my overpriced reef lights and pumps (1 Iwaki external, 1 RIO internal.) Instead of spending $$ for a chiller, and then more $$ monthly to run it, releasing the heat from the tank into the house air would do just fine for me. <A simple cheap Mart-mart fan blowing across the waters surface in the display or sump should give you all the cooling you need. Evaporative cooling is cheap and easy, you just need to top off more frequently (also makes having very pure top-off water imperative!).> I know enough about this topic to McGuiver one myself, but I'd prefer to be lazy and steal someone else's previous work. <I'd be interested to see what you come up, but I'd try a small fan or two first. -Kevin> Thanks,

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