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FAQs about Fans for Chilling Marine Aquariums
Related Articles: Marine Tank Heating,
Cool/Coldwater Marine Systems,
Related FAQs: Chilling 1,
Chilling 2, & FAQs on: Chiller
Rationale/Use, Selection,
DIY, Installation,
Maintenance, Troubleshooting, &
Cool./Cold Marine Set-Up,
Heating, Water Temperature, Metal
Halide Heat Issues, | MD.JPG)
http://stores.ebay.com/Windydayzz
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Fan on new Lighting Fixture is loud 3/26/09
I just replaced my 196watt pc light with a Nova Extreme HO T5 model
1121, which is 156 watts.
<Ah, a nice swap.>
It is on my 40 gallon salt water tank. The fan in the Nova Extreme is
significantly louder than my prior set-up. I'm in the next
room, and I can hear it, even though the TV is on in the aquarium room.
<Wow.>
The dealer said that fans are getting louder to save the life on
ballasts.
<Hmmm.>
My thought is to remove the fan, and replace it with a 3 1/8inch IceCap
fan that blows 19-37 CFM. The IceCap is variable speed off of a
temperature probe. Ice cap also makes a 4 3/4inch 50-112cfm fan, but
that might be a bit too large. I'd have to open up the housing of the
light fixture a bit, but I'm good with Bondo. I would prefer
aesthetically to blow it towards my
back wall 12 inches away, or I could mount it on the top of the fixture
and blow the fan straight up.
<Either will work, the idea is just to keep the air moving around the
ballast.>
We have central air, so the room never gets too hot in the summer.
Would this work to keep the ballasts cool enough?
<I do believe so. But for what it is worth I encourage you to contact
Current USA directly to see what they think first.>
-John in Connecticut
<Scott V. in Cozumel Mex. for the time being.>
Cooling Fans & Green Mandarin – 07/15/08 Hello Crew, <<Hiya
Frank>> Your info has always helped me out. <<We are pleased to
know this>> Thanks for a great Site. <<Quite welcome>> One
question is with placing cooling fans in the canopy of my 125G tank.
<<Okay>> Currently running metal halides, compact fluorescents, and
T-5s. I have 3 clip-on fans that barely fit in the canopy and keep the
canopy top open to keep the temp around 76-78 during these summer
months. <<I see>> I am planning on buying a low-voltage
transformer and wiring pc fans to keep it cool, quiet and keep the
canopy top down to look good. <<Ah yes…I use a 12v outdoor-lighting
transformer to power some computer fans for this purpose>> I was
wondering if about a dozen or so fans can be supported by a 150watt 12v
low-voltage transformer, or will I need a larger watt capacity
transformer? <<That depends on the fans and their consumption
requirements, but very likely the 150w transformer will be fine. Figure
your transformer has about 12.5 amps of capacity (watts / volts = amps),
that means that all the fans will need to “total” less than 12.5 amps in
consumption. Most 12v fans will have their power requirement indicated
in milliamps (mA), with 1000-milliamps equaling 1-amp. These power
ratings are quite variable even among fans of the same size so you will
need to look around for fans to suit (try MPJA.com), and be aware those
power ratings will probably relate to how much air movement and noise
the fan makes. And something I have discovered that may be of interest
is “not all” Computer/PC fans will run on a common low-voltage power
transformer. I don’t know why, but I have a couple fans that will only
power up when I connect them to my lab-style bench top power supply. But
luckily, most of the fans I’ve purchased have run just fine on the
low-voltage lighting transformers I use around my tank>> Second
question is that I was thinking about getting a Green Mandarin. The
specs of my tank are.......I've got a 125G tank with 46G sump. About
70lbs of live rock and a 3-4inch DSB. My tank has been up and running
for nearly 9months. I already have a Scooter Blenny that has thrived in
the 5 months he's been in there. <<Mmm…and will be a serious food
competitor, and maybe even an aggressor, to the Green Mandarin>> I
understand that Mandarins eat pods and other small organisms that live
within the sand and rock. I have a 28G tank that I used for Quarantine,
but haven’t bought a fish in months. In that tank, I have a 4inch sand
bed and about 3lbs of live rock. There are a ton of organisms including
pods in that tank. I will normally scatter food and watch them appear in
the daytime to gather food. I know that Mandarins can completely and
possibly go through their food source in my main tank. <<In short
order, yes…compounded already by the presence of the of the Scooter
Blenny>> Would this work..........to rotate about 3-5 small 1-2lbs
pieces of live rock from my main tank to the 28G so that the life in the
28G would move/populate to these rocks and feed the mandarin in the live
tank? <<It would help…but it would be much better to plumb this
impromptu refugium in to the display system to allow a “constant” influx
of food organisms and their progeny>> I have a super small area in my
sump that I use as a Refugium with lots of Chaeto, DSB. But I don’t
think it would supply too much if any pods since they would be killed by
passing through my pump. <<This is not the problem many think, most
small organisms make it through the pump just fine…and even those that
don’t still provide benefit/are consumed. The real issue is the size and
the refugiums capacity to support the display…best to add a larger
refugium>> So do you think that my 28G tank would work good as a
surrogate Refugium to help a Mandarin? <<It will help, yes…better so
if directly plumbed>> Thanks you guys/gals Frank X Meadors
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
Fans And Wiring And Moisture, Oh My!...Using 12v Computer Fans For
Aquarium Applications – 08/01/07 Hey everyone, <<Hey there,
whoever you are!...EricR here>> Eric Russell had written this in
response to someone’s question regarding fans: *<<In fact I would
forgo the IceCap fans altogether and use 12v “computer” fans. You can
usually get a 4” fan for five-bucks or less on the NET…and in my
experience, they usually outlast the 110v fans (I have a couple that are
going on 4-years running 24/7). As for a power source, an 88-watt
low-voltage lighting transformer ($30 or less) will run several 4” 12v
fans with ease>>* <<Ah yes, indeed I did...>> Where do I find a
lighting transformer thing, and where would I find out information about
wiring it to computer fans?? <<Well...the lighting transformer
“thing” can be picked up at any hardware store or home center that sells
“outdoor” lighting. If you only want to run a couple fans you may want
to consider the smaller plug-in “power converters” you can pick up for a
few bucks apiece at an online vendor like MPJA
(http://www.mpja.com/products.asp?dept=366). Wiring up the fans is
pretty basic as long as your fan only has two leads coming from it. If
the fan has more than two leads, you can sometimes obtain “adapter”
fittings (often from the same source where you get the fans) to reduce
the leads to two, or you can experiment with the wires until you find
the right combination. The 12v fans are “directional” in that the
current has to travel a certain “direction” through the motor. If the
fan doesn’t run or it runs backwards after you hook it up, try reversing
the leads. Also, make sure you match your 12v transformer to your 12v
fans. If you purchase a transformer intended for outdoor lighting you
should have plenty of juice to power a handful of small 12v fans, but if
you purchase the smaller “individual” power converters make sure you
match (or exceed) the “output” of the transformer to the “current draw”
of the fan>> Also, will computer fans be "moisture resistant" to use
in the canopy and stand sections?? <<Longevity will depend much on
the quality of the fans themselves. Obtaining fans with ball-bearings as
opposed to roller-bearings may increase life...and though I’ve yet to
try them, the “levitated” fans that run suspended in a magnetic field
may be even better. I have a couple ball-bearing fans mounted under my
tank behind “closed doors” with a 55g refugium and 75g sump that have
run non-stop for years. I have others mounted atop the tank that need
replacement on about a yearly basis. It seems the “humidity” of the
stand is less harsh on them than the heat and “dust” encountered above
the tank and under the lights>> I know the aquarium specific brands
of fans (like IceCap) say they are fine to use with salt-water
applications, but not sure if that is just marketing talk or a real
concern! <<The 12v fans are much safer around “any” water in my
opinion and have proven quite efficient/reliable in my experience...and
most will be much quieter than the 120v fans, though there is usually
some tradeoff in power/air flow>> Thank you so much! <<Happy to
assist. Eric Russell>>
Cool Tank... You've Got a Fan! 7/10/07 Hello Bob & Crew,
<You would have & Crew today.> For what it's worth... <Your 2
cents?> At the risk of being arrogant enough to think that I might
have found something that everyone else hasn't already, (less than six
months into this) I wanted to offer this to you first. You can decide if
I may actually the last person on the planet to figure this out. I
certainly realize that I am not the first but who knows who might be
able to use this idea. <Heehee!> I was having a great deal of
trouble keeping my tank cool in the seasonal heat. I was keeping the
entire house air conditioned to a very cool temp just to keep from
boiling the fish. The tank would always remain many degrees higher than
room temp (yes, I unplugged the heater and checked pump motors etc.) and
I was about to take the expensive plunge into a chiller when it hit me.
<The chiller hit you? Bad chiller! Bad!> I simply took a common
household fan (approx 16" dia) and positioned it on an angle so that it
would blow across the long front side of my 72gal and one short side at
the same time. Problem solved! The tank is now maintaining consistent
temps around 77deg without all the swings that accompany the outside
temp! <Excellent! Glad to hear this worked for you!> I am also
saving a pile of money in electricity not having to freeze my whole
house and family with the A/C to make sure the Clowns are comfy.
<Honey... Where's the wool sweaters?> Hey, maybe I am the last to
figure this out, but if one person needs this simple idea... then I
guess he/she will now hold that title. Just thought I would throw that
one out there since I hadn't read it anywhere. I had only read about
expensive chillers. <Fans are often incorporated into many lighting
units and some people will run them over the top of the tank or the sump
for cooling... but this tends to increase evaporation rates. Your idea
is quite good and has been used by others, but is certainly worth
mentioning here, especially during these, the glorious (IMO, 95F and
humid is fine by me!) "dog days" of summer.> Thanks for the site.
<On behalf of Bob and the rest of the crew you are quite welcome!> My
fish thank you. <This is nice to hear! We are happy to make a
difference!> Mike <Cheers, Mich, who is soaking in the wonderful
warm weather!> Tank Cooling…How/Where to Mount the
Fans? – 04/08/07 Most of the answers on the site about MH
lighting and heat involve canopies, which I am not using. It's a bare
glass top between the lighting and the water. <<Mmm, I suggest
removing the glass top…will aid/benefit gas exchange, as well as assist
cooling through increased evaporation>> Should be a simpler problem,
except that I don't have the fan mounting choices described in your
answers. <<A bit more detail here would better help me to help you>>
Like everyone else, I want to go with fans rather than a chiller.
<<Understandable (lower initial cost/power consumption) I am
ordering a Current USA Outer Orbit 48" fixture with 2x150W HQI MH, 4x54W
actinic (or 2x130W - there seems to be a choice), and 18 LEDs. Of
course, it comes with a fan installed. <<Indeed>> I intend to
suspend it about 10" over the 72 gallon Oceanic bowfront reef aquarium
with fish, anemones, soft corals, SPS, an oyster, crabs, snails,
urchins, sponge, and a variety of organisms that pop up out of the live
rocks. <<Have you read through our info re anemone systems/mixing
with sessile invertebrates? Not recommended…>> The system includes
a 25 gallon CPR refugium with skimmer and a 10 gallon sump. I am
concerned about heat, because in the summer my old Current USA Dual
Satellite pumped the temperature above 80 F. <<A “couple” degrees
increase here would not be a concern…in my opinion>> I put several
frozen water bottles into the sump, but I had to do this about twice a
day. <<Yes…often effective but tedious>> The 4"
Icecap heat-sensing fans are an attractive addition to push air in and
pull it out, but where and how should I mount them? <<A couple
mounted at either end of the tank to blow across the surface would help
(after you remove the glass top), as well as mounting one or two to blow
across the surfaces of the refugium and sump. I don’t know enough about
your setup to be specific about mounting options, but if you or someone
you know is handy with acrylic it’s fairly easy to create some type of
mounting apparatus>> I'm not certain that sump cooling by fan would
suffice, and I don't see how the heat-sensing probes would work there.
<<Honestly mate, I would forgo messing with/paying for any “temperature
sensing” apparatus re the fans. In fact I would forgo the IceCap fans
altogether and use 12v “computer” fans. You can usually get a 4” fans
for five-bucks or less on the NET…and in my experience, they usually
outlast the 110v fans (I have a couple that are going on 4-years running
24/7). As for a power source, an 88-watt low-voltage lighting
transformer ($30 or less) will run several 4” 12v fans with ease>>
The idea of two bare fans mounted somewhere at each end of the tank is
not aesthetically appealing. <<I see>> Suspending them from the
fixture is the only option I've thought of. Richard C. Rockwell
<<Another option, yes…but will require fashioning some type of fan
mount. The most simple would be a piece of acrylic (or even thin
plywood) drilled with a large hole to fit the diameter of the fan and
with a “lip” to allow affixing to the light fixture. Regards, Eric
Russell>> Re: Tank Cooling...How/Where to Mount the Fans?
04/09/07 Thanks for replying so quickly -- on a holiday!
<<Quite welcome>> I'll read up on anemones and sessile
invertebrates, and on removing the glass top and suicidal
species. Great site! <<Indeed...much information/experience/shared
knowledge for the taking/learning. EricR>> - Temp Activated
Fans - Hey guys! I'm not sure who will be reading this but I
want you all to know that this site is the best source of information
anywhere. <Glad you find it useful.> I own a 90 gallon reef aquarium
that I struggle to keep cool during the summer months. I have taken
your advise and purchased muffin fans which do a surprisingly good job
of lowering the temp; however, I have seen them lower it by too much as
well. I was wondering, is there any product that monitors the water
temp and controls when the fans turn on and off? <I've only seen
variable speed fans as yet.> I have noticed that there is a similar
setup being used in the world of water-cooled personal computers. A
device called a 'thermistor' monitors the water temperature and then
turns the cooling fan on when it gets too warm and off when it gets
cool. <Yeah... too bad they're not up to the saltwater environment.> Is
there something out there for us fish guys? <Hmm... well there are
combined heater/chiller controllers which aren't exactly cheap... you
could use one of these to turn on the fans rather than a chiller, and it
would modulate the heater and fans as needed. Otherwise...> If there's
not, could you invent one? ( : <Just need some funds for design...
perhaps you can provide some investment capital? ;-) > (I'm currently
building a water return manifold like the one that Anthony Calfo
designed.) Thanks for all the help you guys give! - Chad
<Cheers, J -- > Cooling fans 6/31/05 Hello this
morning.<Good day!> I have installed a fan in for my reef tank in my
cabinet. The question is what direction should the flow be? I'm I
supposed to draw cold cold air in or exhaust hot air out?<Fans help keep
the tank temperature down in two ways. The air movement moves heat
away from the tank and increases evaporation thereby cooling the tank.
If you installed the fan in the cabinet (as opposed to the hood or
canopy) and you have a sump or refugium, you might consider aiming the
fan at the water in the sump/refugium to speed up evaporation. If you
installed a single fan in the hood/canopy, you should probably exhaust
the hot air out. If you install two fans in the canopy, you could use
one to pull cooler air in and the other to exhaust warm air.> Thank
you Stephan <You're welcome - Ted>
Re: Green Hair Algae, Rebecca's input re cooling fan and moon light
sources 7/28/05 Thanks a million, Bob. I wish I could give you a
big hug! <Consider yourself hugged in return> FYI, here are my
fans:
http://stores.ebay.com/Windydayzz and my moon lights:
http://stores.ebay.com/Fishbowl-Innovations I'm extremely
pleased with the quality and design of both, as well as great service,
and would recommend them. Rebecca L. Dishman <Outstanding. Thank
you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Cooling fan CFM vs. exhaust fan
CFM 8/9/05 Hello Air-Cooled Reef Guru : I took a furnace fan and
situated it so that it vigorously blows across the surface of my
uncovered 100 gallon reef. Normally, it's been running kind of hot
(around 86-87 F) with the inside house temp around 78-79. <Yikes...
a bit too warm... you may be a candidate for a chiller... if you've
tried all other means...> Turning the house AC off and this furnace
fan on yielded amazing results. In just 90 minutes the tank temp dropped
to 81, which is what the house temp rose to. <Good> ( In
hindsight, this rapid of a change might have been too stressful to tank
critters - oops, note to self. ) <Yes> Of course, the house
humidity level rose quite high. Besides the cost of running this fan (it
uses 750 watts !!! ) <Yeeikes> I obviously need to find a way to
vent house (or more accurately, fish-room) air to the outside, else the
humidity level would rise too high and prevent further cooling (when the
dew point, I believe it's called, is reached.) <You are correct>
It would also be nice not to have a mold factory take over my fish room.
<Yes> My question is this : from experience or math, what is the
rate at which I should vent this humid air out ? I'm looking for a ratio
I guess, say 1 CFM per every 5 or 10 CFM the cooling fan puts out.
<Mmm, well... the change-out is more a percent of the total volume of
the house, room... fifty percent per hour is likely a high level to
shoot for here> Thanks for any help - SLC <I would look into
smaller fans to run over your water, in an enclosed canopy, modifying
your light-period during the warmer months... or even a chiller... Bob
Fenner>
How to cool a tank? 9/29/05 Hi there,
I am having trouble with the temperature of my 75 gallon tank, now I
have just started it and there is nothing in it yet (except some live
sand) . The temperature constantly reads 82 degrees and above, my
thermometer is a stick on, and I have it located in the middle of my
tank. We haven't bought any temperature devices yet (heater, chiller
etc.) because we are wondering if there is another way to solve this
problem, or if it is OK? < That is a little high. > I was looking into
chillers on the web, WOAH I didn't expect them to be that expensive, do
you know of any relatively cheap but effective chilling unit.
<Absolutely. Very few aquarists use chillers. > Also I just purchased a
digital thermometer to make sure the reading is correct. The tank gets
about 1100 gallons per hour I think it is (if this matters to the
temperature). Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated. <
I'll bet the heat is all from lighting. It usually is. The easiest and
most popular way to cool the tank is by use of fans. Most people use
clip on fans from Wal Mart. They are under $10 and two of them will do
an amazing job of evaporative cooling. Try having them turn on and off
with your lights. You should see a noticeable temperature change in
just a couple days. > P.S GREAT website
Clare < Blundell >
Cooling Fans 4/21/06
Hi I was thinking about getting a couple of the 120mm fans for my tank
with the summer coming. However since they are meant to plug into a
computer, <Mmm, not all> I was wondering if any of you had any
instructions on how to wire fans together into a regular AC plug. Any
help that you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Danielle <Can be wired in series with your lighting... or to
separate timers... even to thermal switches... See your dealer or
"electronics" outlet re. Bob Fenner>
Fan
cooling Will do! BTW, how exactly do you blow fans across the top
of the water on a sealed tank? Thanks for help! BH <Well- that
presents a challenge, doesn't it? I'd do one of two things: Open the top
a bit and blow in air from above, or (and this is what I was inferring)
I'd place the fan over the sump (assuming you use one). Hope this
helps! Scott F.> Thermoelectric Heater/Chiller Dear WWM
crew, Do you guys have any comments/insight into the thermoelectric
heater/chiller like the one advertised in the Drs. Foster and Smith
catalog? I have a 55 + gallon flat back hex acrylic tank with a hood
and three 23" power compacts. The temp hovers at around 84 F. The tank
is pre-drilled and is powered by an Iwaki pump with a mechanical,
carbon, and UV (which I'm not currently using) Rainbow canister
filters. There is no practical way for me to implement the usual
"cooling" methods, but I don't want to spend $700. The DIY plans seem
sketchy. Any suggestions? <Yes. Many times aquarists seem to think
in order to get fans to work that you gotta have your canopy drilled
etc. Hogwash! Is the back of the canopy open? Yes? Then go to a computer
store and get two of those $13-20 fans and put one on either side of the
tank and blowing across the water. Put them on a timer so they will stay
on as long as your lights. If the top of your tank is open, you can
mount the fans on the back of the canopy. This will save you $700 which
you really don't need to spend...and it works! More than likely, this
will get your tank under 80F.> Thanks guys, Stu <You're
welcome! I hope this helped...David Dowless> Losing His Top So
He Can Keep His Cool? Hi Crew, <Scott F. here for you> I
have a question about some things I've read here. I currently can't
get my 75 gallon tank with a SmartLite PC 50% 10,000K daylight and 50%
actinic, and a MagDrive 950 IN the sump to cool down. The tank is
heating up to 81 without running the heater. From what I've read I
should remove the glass top from the tank to allow for more airflow. Is
this correct? <Well, yes, it will help with oxygen exchange, as well
as cooling, but you will have a noticeable increase in evaporation! You
could also place some fans in the lighting canopy, or even blowing
across the water in the sump to help move some heat out of there> If
so I've heard gobies sometimes try to jump out. Since this is one of the
fish I'd like to have in my long term plans is there something else I
should cover the tank with? <How about using some egg-crate material,
cut to the size of the cutouts on your tank? You'll get great gas
exchange, all of the cooling benefits of the open top tank, and keep
your goby from becoming reef jerky! It will diffuse some of the light
from the top, however, so keep this in mind> Thanks for all of your
help, Dave PS. Order Mr. Fenner's book, should be here next week!
<You're gonna love that book...mine is absolutely thrashed from
re-reading it so many times! Thanks for stopping by! Regards, Scott F>
Fan Cooling Hello guys, <Hello again Bryan, PF still with you>
I have some questions tonight. First about heat in a tank. I have a 75
gallon tank with a stand and canopy. In the stand is my sump that
contains my Euro Reef skimmer and heater. The pump is a CSL velocity
T4. The temp in my tank stays around 78.6 to 80.1 (not bad...but I
would like around 77 -79) I know the pump puts off some heat, and
possibly the in sump skimmer and pump. <Yes, yes, and yes> So I was
doing some researching and have decided to add a couple fans in the
stand to help w/ temp control. <I think you would get better results
with small fans in the hood> Here is my question. What is the
best/appropriate way to place the fans. I read about placing one fan
blowing across the water in sump and one blowing directly onto my
pump. Then as I was going thru the F&Q's there was a lot of answers
about turning the fan to suck the warm air out. I'm a little confused
on what to do, please help clarify. Also I am looking to put 2 5"
Orion fans into the canopy to cool the lighting ( using 265W PC... they
get pretty hot) I was going to blow air into the canopy per advice on
reef central but again I am a little confused on what to do. <From
all I've seen/read/heard it's better to have the fans blowing air in.
This will not only cool the lights directly, but will also have an
evaporative effect on the tank. Unless you're having heat problems, I
wouldn't put a fan directly in the sump, but instead rely on the fans in
the canopy. Hopefully that clears things up.> Any suggestion would be
appreciated. Thanks Bryan <You're welcome, have a good night, PF>
-McGuivering a cooling device- Hi : (This is for the
temp-control-plumbing guru on staff tonight) <Hmmm... well, how 'bout
me instead? :) > I'd like to know if there is a commercial device, or
DIY plans to make one, that cools marine tanks down to room temps. by
using simple heat sink physics, i.e. how a car radiator works.
<There's a product called an Ice Probe chiller which is a bulkhead
mounted heat sink with a small fan on it. Unfortunately they're really
small and impractical for larger tanks.> I keep the house at a
constant 78 degrees year round, but my tank of course hovers about 3-4
degrees above that due to the heat released by my overpriced reef lights
and pumps (1 Iwaki external, 1 RIO internal.) Instead of spending $$ for
a chiller, and then more $$ monthly to run it, releasing the heat from
the tank into the house air would do just fine for me. <A simple
cheap Mart-mart fan blowing across the waters surface in the display or
sump should give you all the cooling you need. Evaporative cooling is
cheap and easy, you just need to top off more frequently (also makes
having very pure top-off water imperative!).> I know enough about
this topic to McGuiver one myself, but I'd prefer to be lazy and steal
someone else's previous work. <I'd be interested to see what you come
up, but I'd try a small fan or two first. -Kevin> Thanks, SLC
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