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FAQs about Aquarium Chillers/Chilling Installation

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Related FAQs: Chilling 1, Chilling 2, & FAQs on: Fans For Cooling, Chiller Rationale/Use, Selection, DIY, Maintenance, Troubleshooting, & Cool./Cold Marine Set-Up, Heating, Water TemperatureMetal Halide Heat Issues,

Best to lower temperatures over days' time; particularly for non-fish livestocks' sake.  Heteractis crispa (Ehrenberg 1834), the Leathery or Sebae Sea Anemone.

Chiller; affixing another controller      7/20/15
Hello there:
I need some advice. I have a CL-280 Resun Chiller and when I have a power failure and power comes back the Chiller just start and never kick's off.
So everything in the tank just frozen. Everything's dead.
What should I do?
<Mmmm; fish fry?>

I heard about adding a Ranco controller but I have no idea how to connect it.
<You wire the chiller into this and use a non-metal thermistor probe (not the "drop in" metal ones they make for refrigerators) in the tank connected to the Controller...>
I know I have to wire the unit
<Yes; easy to do. See the model's manual... avail. online>

but once wired, should I change anything in chiller or just plug the chiller to the unit and Ranco to power?
<Yes to this last>
Please advice
Jose Belardo
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Chiller; and heaters... electric     8/16/14
Hello Crew,
I have a Current USA 1/3 HP Prime Tower dual stage #2646 chiller for my 125 gallon tank with 30 gallon sump. I want to hook up two heaters in lieu of one just in case one fails.
<Good practice>
The chiller can only accommodate up to 300 watts. Is there a way I can integrate two 150 watt heaters that will plug into the back of my chiller?
<? Don't know if I follow you here. You mean physically; as in place a duplex outlet there, plug them in to this?>
perhaps by adding a adapter to the chiller that will receive two separate chords from the two heaters? I also have a Digital Aquatics Reef Keeper available that is installed to my system. Any input would be deeply appreciated.
Thank You,
<Well... I would set the heater thermostats (obviously) higher than the low setting on the chiller... and not worry re the wattage draw of both. Bob Fenner>

Plumb a Nova Tech Iceprobe to a Canister Filter? (Possibly) – 09/23/12
<<Hey Greg>>
I'm running an Eheim 2232 canister filter and would like to somehow add the little 50 watt Nova Tech Iceprobe chiller to my system.
I've figured out a way to install the chiller through the bottom of the canister filter but would like to find an easier way…and one that I wouldn't have to sacrifice filter media space for.
<<Mmm, yes>>
So, is it possible to put the chiller inline, on the canister's return hose somehow?
<<I would think so, yes…by employing some type of water-tight vessel along the return tubing to which you can install the probe>>
If it is, how do you recommend doing this?
<<As just suggested… Ideally by using an “empty” canister minus the motor assembly (search the Net re) and installing the probe through the side if possible…and this might be done very easily by utilizing a “Uniseal” if the probe diameter corresponds to the size Uniseals available>>
The way I have the canister set up, the hoses run horizontal for a few feet on a shelf before going straight up to the tank.
So this would provide a place to set the little container or whatever I would need to use so the probe can make contact with the water.
My only concern with this method - if it's even possible – is how much would the flow rate be reduced?
<<Only trial will tell…but with the configuration you describe, I would think it to be minimal>>
<<Happy to share… EricR>>
Re: Plumb a Nova Tech Ice Probe to a Canister Filter? (Possibly) – 09/24/12

Thanks for the info,
<<Quite welcome>>
just need some clarification because I'm having trouble understanding what you mean by using a canister filter without the motor assembly. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong models. Did you have a specific canister filter in mind? Because all the ones that I know of have the in/out lines attached to the motor assembly.
<<At one time Eheim (I believe) offered a “motor less” canister to be used in-line with a motored unit to allow greater filter capacity without paying for the motor, if not needed. But looking around the Net just now, I can’t seem to find any>>
Or did you mean for me to just buy an empty canister without the head, seal the top with Plexiglas (or similar) and then plumb in/out nipples to the sides?
<<Naw…easier to just buy and gut a cheap canister and not “plug it in,” for mounting the probe. EricR>>

New System Design Help (Chillers/Pumps) -- 05/07/11
Hello WWM Crew!
<<Greetings Matt!>>
First of all I would like to thank you all for the work you guys put in to providing us with so many answers to our questions.
<<We are pleased to assist>>
The reason I am contacting you is because I am in the design phase for a new system.
<<Exciting times>>
I cannot seem to find any info regarding how much potential head loss a chiller can cause.
<<I've used a chiller for years and find a good rule-of-thumb is to figure 1 foot of head loss for each ell fitting going in/out of the chiller'¦and then 'double it.' Another good 'rule' is to slightly 'oversize' your pump, and install a gate-valve on the output side to adjust flow as/if needed>><Good rules. B>
I am currently running a 50gal reef tank and will soon be looking to upgrade it to a 75gal. I am looking to purchase a JBJ Arctica 1/10hp chiller that will be used on my 50 and transferred over to the 75 when I get all the components to get the 75 up and running.
<<Several factors can influence the size of the chiller necessary for one's system (e.g. - lighting type, room placement, ambient room temperature), but unless you are going to have very little heat transfer from your lighting, and the room is kept quite cool, and you are going to provide ancillary cooling methods (fans blowing across surface of tank/sump), I am skeptical that a 1/10th HP chiller will get the job done on this size system. If a chiller is indeed needed, in 'my' opinion a 1/5 HP chiller is a wiser choice here>>
The set up I am planning on running is the 75gal tank with a 29 or 30 sump/fuge. Because of the fuge I do not want to have too much water going through it to allow it to do its job. I plan on running a similar set up to what I have now, with low flow through the sump and circulation pumps in the tank.
I am looking at trying an external pump on my new system. The pump I am looking to get is the BlueLine 20HD, after using a head loss calculator I can get 354 gallons per hour with 3/4"pvc or 374gph with 1"pvc which is right where I want to be flow wise.
<<If using 1-inch drains, I do hope you are planning on more than one>>
I just do not know how much more of a loss that the chiller will cause.
<<I would figure another 4-foot of head loss as a minimum>>
My other consideration for a pump is a submersible pump, the Rio 2500.
<<If these are your only options, I would go with the Blueline'¦but I do feel a much better option than either of these would be a choice from Eheim's line of pumps. The Eheim 1260 might fit well here. These are very efficient (economical to operate), quiet, and reliable pumps>>
On the new system I am going to be using Metal Halide Lighting, the fixture I am planning to use is 716w 48" fixture with 2 250w Halide bulbs and 4 56w T-5 actinics.
<<If you are expecting heat to be an issue (likely, I think), then you very likely will need something bigger than a 1/10th HP chiller>>
I am still not entirely sure which pump I am going to use because I am currently using a Rio 1100 submersible pump, but I know taking out any extra heat causing element will help to regulate tank temp.
<<I find the Eheim pumps contribute very little to this>>
I recently changed skimmers that has an external pump, and provided there will not be noise issues with an external pump would like to try and go this route for my sump return pump as well.
<<Your choice'¦but the Eheim will be the 'quietest' option>>
The reason I have chosen the Blueline pump is cost, warranty, energy consumption, and it will give me the desired flow rate.
I know this is a lengthy e-mail, but I do appreciate your time and hope that I have given enough information for you to answer my question.
<<I hope I have>>
<<Happy to share'¦ Eric Russell>>

Chillers and the Texas heat 12/10/09
Hi there,
<Hello Sabrina.>
I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank with a 492 watt metal halide system (just upgraded from 260W PC). From the beginning (even with the PC's) this tank has had big temp swings. Would range any where from 75 at night to 82 during the day. The temp in the room is currently kept around 74 during the day and 71 at night. It took a while (maybe 2 weeks) but after adding a fan to the refugium and alternating lighting in the refugium all seems to have stabilized at 80.4 degrees with little flux (maybe a degree or two). Now that the temp is somewhat settled I am putting my focus on the up and coming summer which though it's only December seems like its racing towards me.
<Planning ahead will pay off.>
I am not a DIY person. Though I would love to be every project I touch turns into a Bill Cosby plumbing episode and I am scared to death of destroying my tank to save a buck/make it look prettier/make it easier on myself. I refuse to get a predrilled tank so everything I have is hang on and hose feed.
<Well, better than a Tim Taylor episode!>
Now the reason for this lengthy email... I need a chiller and have been looking and reading and looking and reading and on and on for 2 weeks now. I asked a question the other day about the Iceprobes and found that this wouldn't work for me... so next I went looking for the drop in systems like Current and Tradewind. I have heard good things about Tradewind as a company and its uses of high end parts'¦ plus I like that they are right here in country. I like to support our industries (we have so little these days). I know nothing about Current (do you have any information on Current drop ins or the company as a whole?).
<You know what I do about where they manufacture. I can say most chiller parts in the industry are not made in the USA. Tradewind does offer twice the warranty, with the option of a longer (5 year) warranty.>
My tank is in the middle of my living room/formal dinning/breakfast nook area so the heat and noise levels are a high concern. In the summer we keep the AC at 76-77 as our electric bill is sky high so the tank could get as high as 90 if the temp is unattended. I like my home warm and never adjust the temp. The pull down then could be at least 15 degrees.
<Wow, a good bit.>
As our RO/DI system is on the fritz and I have to use my "fish allowance" to pay for any and all projects/upgrades placing too many fans on or around the tank subsequently causing to much evaporation would be a problem for me... Can't save money to fix things when you are busy spending it on others you know?
<5 in, 6 out, know the feeling!>
I read here on WWM that a remote set up could be used... how does that work exactly?
<Just plumbing a line to the chiller and then back to the tank. Ideally the chiller should be in an area with quite a bit of open space with airflow around it not restricted. They do put off a good bit of heat and need the airflow.>
Can all in line chillers work with a remote set up?
<Yes, just need to match the flow through rate the manufacturer recommends.>
Even if you could point me in the right direction would be helpful. The tank is upstairs and in the middle of the room so I'm not really sure how I would even think about putting it in my garage. Is it like a dryer where a hose comes out to the window? (I know, scary that I have been reading and still am this lost/confused)
<Yes, to plumb it remotely a line will have to runs somewhere.>
I had also read from one of your other posts that drop in chillers really aren't that great for a number of reasons (which I can't really remember right now) but that the standard chillers plumbing really isn't that complex. First do you share the opinion on drop ins and why?
<I am not a fan, the drop in chillers are just not as efficient at cooling as the inlines in general.>
And also, is this true that it really isn't that complex?
<No, it is not. Just plumb from the tank/sump to the chiller and back again.>
I have tried reading various manuals online as far as installation goes but I have no point of reference as I have never used or even laid hands on a chiller other than to point at one in the box at the LFS. Is it as simple as putting one hose in one hose out?
<Yes it is. Some chillers even have threaded input/outputs for PVC pipe fittings to screw into.>
Also, what size should I get? I had been planning on upgrading to a 125 so I had wanted to purchase a chiller that could handle both but read tonight on WWM that bigger isn't better.
<It is not, it can shorten the lifespan of the chiller. A chiller that is too large will turn on and off much more frequently, this is the toughest part on electrical compressors. I would shoot for 1/4-1/3 hp with this system.>
One other thing'¦ what is head pressure?
<Water pressure against the pump output from pumping water up. Not an issue with closed loop systems such as on a chiller will run on. Many hobbyists use the term to include frictional loss, the loss from the water actually flowing through pipes and fittings such as elbows.>
And what do you do with it/figure out/take into consideration?
<Chillers generally come with a wide range of flows. I usually shoot to flow the maximum recommended. By the time frictional loss or "head pressure" is accounted for you will likely end up flowing less than this, but well within the flow range of the chiller.>
Please help me... In this I am so very out of my element.
Thank you so very much for your time. You guys really are a fish saver.
<Welcome, I do hope this helps make sense of it all. Scott V.>

Current USA chiller, plumbing, overflows  -- 11/03/09
Hello Crew,
Need some of your expert advise. <advice> You have gotten me so far with many great ideas and answers and i am getting to the end of my work with great results thanks to you guys. Anyhow, I just purchased a 1/3 HP Current USA dual stage inline tower chiller for my 125 gal saltwater tank. I have a 30 gallon sump below fed by a 1-1/2 drain. I want to say i am draining about 1100 plus GPH
<Mmm, doubtful with a single 1.5" ID line:
that drains through a filter sock with heater below then to a Aqua-C EV 180 skimmer powered by a submersible Mag 9 pump. The return is a very quiet Velocity Poseidon PS4 pump that has only 3 ft of vertical and 1 ft of horizontal head pressure with inline check valve
<I would not rely on this>
and 1 90 degree elbow. It is pumping great and keeping up with overflow. My plan is to throw in a Sen 700 GA submersible pump near the return intake where my Poseidon intake is and attach the outflow of the Sen to the intake of the chiller via 3/4" hose and run another hose at the out of the chiller back into that same spot. What do you think?
<Mmm, a shame to "waste" the added circulation here... to not run it back to the main display>
I would rather not run the out of my chiller back into the tank because i am afraid my overflow will not be able to handle it.
<And I am concerned that I will fail to adequately express my misgiving re there being only a single overflow. I would have at least two. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/thrhullsiz5f.htm
and the linked files above until you understand the gist of what we're talking about here. Too much to potentially (and easily) lose by not having redundancy built-in here. Bob Fenner>

Heat/Chiller, pump sel.  6/18/08 Hi WWM, Does anyone know which pump produces less heat Sedra 9000 or Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH? <The Dart will likely impart less heat into your water.> This is for my sump. I have a Cali ray tank and all of the sudden my chiller isn't up to par like last summer and I think its because I switched pumps form Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH to Sedra 9000. I am trying to narrow the problem down. <I would have the chiller looked at. An appropriately sized chiller should not have issues keeping up with the heat produced by this pump. Have you noticed the chiller running longer or coming on more often? Chillers are merely air conditioners for our water, they need to be serviced from time to time. An air-conditioner tech in your area will likely be able to help. Please help me if you can Thanks Michelle <Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Heat/Chiller 6/19/08 Yes it is running non-stop it never used to. Do they fill them with something? <Yes, just your standard R134 refrigerant for most of today's chillers. Although you can fill this yourself, I would take it to a qualified AC tech. There very well could be a leak letting refrigerant escape or other factors that they will recognize. Good luck, Scott V.>

Chiller a great impediment to flow? Chiller Installation/Flow 1/30/08 Dear Crew, <Hi Kent> I have a Current Prime 1/10hp Chiller which calls for a flow of 300-720gph. My tank is 20inx20inx16in, making it around 27gal. I'd like to have about a 15x turnover rate, so I'm looking for ~450gph of circulation in my tank. My plumbing scheme for the chiller is: tank=>external pump=>chiller=>tank. The chiller will need to be placed ~4ft below the rim of my tank (so, a 4ft head) and, after the chiller, I'm going to split the line going into the tank so that I will have two inlets, one at each end of the tank pointing toward each other (and, hopefully, each pumping ~225gph). <Definitely install ball valves on each line here, flow rate will not be equal. Will all depend on the head loss of the chiller. Current doesn't give this info in their fact sheet. You may want to contact them on this.> The pump I'm thinking of using is the MagDrive 7 which claims a flow of 450gph at 4ft. <Yes, with one line out. I'm thinking you will be using a "T" to avail two lines. The "T" alone will reduce flow rate some.> This flow would occur If the pump were in a closed loop by itself 4ft below the tank, but this doesn't account for any other impediments to flow. <Yes, elbows and other fittings all come into play in restricting flow.> I guess my question is this: how much would you expect the chiller to impede the flow? <Don't know without info on head loss of this model.> With this chiller, pump, plumbing scheme, and head what would you expect the flow to be? Much less than 450gph? <Will be less. Is best to oversize the pump, you can always reduce output with ball valves with no harm to the pump.> The MD7 mentioned above claims to use ~60W of power. Another pump I'm considering is the Quiet One Model 3000 pump. This pump claims 780gph at 0ft and ~580gph at 4ft and uses only 40W of power. Would you please apply the questions I asked above to this pump? Which pump would you prefer? <I always go for the lower wattage consumption providing flow rates are close to being equal. My choice would be the Quiet One. With this model, you may be close to 450gph after restrictions are taken into account.> Thanks for your help and advice, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Trent

Chiller question, Pb  12/21/07 Hi Crew, <Hello Rich.> I am moving my chiller into the basement. I am having difficulty determining the proper size pump. Based on the attached diagram, can you tell me the head loss that will occur? <Actual head loss will be negligible, you are essentially creating a closed loop.> And any other wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks for your consideration. <You are looking for friction loss from the distance the tubing runs. Easy enough to estimate using flow chart for pipe I.D. vs. flow. You can simply google friction loss chart, then add up the loss from all your pipe and fittings. You can then size a pump based on the manufacturers head loss graph. Plan on losing an extra 10-15% of your flow through your chiller. This is not a definite number, just a generality. All chillers will restrict flow somewhat, some more than others.> Thanks Rich Mc Donald <Welcome, Scott V.>

Plumbing A Chiller (Location/Figuring Headloss/Sizing The Pump) -- 07/30/07 Hi all, <<Hiya Nick>> I need a chiller for my system (210-gallon) and didn't want to use my main return pump (Iwaki 70RLT) from my sump to also go thru the chiller. <<Hmm...unless the flow rate is too much for the chiller this is quite the viable option>> Right now the Iwaki is pumping from the sump up to 2 returns, with each return having a Y split off of LocLine (for a total of 4 LocLine return flare nozzles). The flow doesn't feel that strong coming out of each nozzle, and I fear it will be even weaker if I use that same pump to power the chiller. <<Ahh, I see... Yes, the chiller will indeed impart more headloss to the pump>> My thoughts were to buy the 1/3hp JBJ Arctica Chiller, (http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idproduct~JB1117~idCartRow~5345475~isKit~0.html), and to buy a separate pump to take water from the sump, pump it thru the chiller, and then up into the tank where it will branch off into a return manifold made of PVC pipe and LocLine. <<Sounds good>> What are your thoughts on this, as far as it being a good idea, or is there a better way I may try? <<A dedicated pump for the chiller is perfectly fine, and will also allow you to more precisely control flow as opposed to a 'branch' line off the main pump>> I basically don't want to have to buy ANOTHER pump down the line to plumb a manifold. That's just too many pumps + heat + money. Also, what kind of pump would I need for this application? <<A submersible will probably be easiest to install>> The info on the chiller says: "Flow Rate (min/max): 8/40 gpm." <<Wow, a wide variation... I would shoot for somewhere in the middle. Buy a magnetic-drive pump that will allow maximum flow if needed/wanted and plumb a gate-valve on the output side to allow you to adjust it down until you find the flow rate that gives you maximum efficiency re the chiller>> I am unsure how to figure out head and loss due to feet... and height... and etc.... I want something that won't run hot and heat up my water even more. <<Not difficult at all...figure a foot of head loss for 'every vertical foot' of plumbing...figure a foot of headloss for 'each angle' in the plumbing (Tee, Wye, Ell)...and figure a foot of headloss for 'every ten-feet' of horizontal plumbing... Add all these together and you have your total 'estimated' headloss>> (That Iwaki is a heat generator and is why I need a chiller in the first place!) <<Hmm...this is the second time I have heard such about this pump in as many weeks>> Since I heard chillers can be noisy, I was thinking of putting the chiller into my garage. <<Some are very quiet actually (considering)...but it is best to locate the unit remotely to keep it from heating up the room (the heat it pulls from the tank has to go somewhere)>> Thru the house walls to the tank, the chiller would be around 8-9 horizontal feet away. (see attached for descriptive picture and dimensions) <<Yes I see...so an 'external' pump it is...>> What kind of pump would I need based on this location? <<Based on your diagram I would size a pump that will push whatever your desired flow rate is at 15-feet of headloss. Based on the recommended flow rates you stated for the chiller, that's anywhere from 500gph -- 2400gph...at 15-feet of head. Using Iwaki as an example, I think you are looking at using a model -70 or -100 to get the job done...and you still won't reach 'maximum.' If you have a real doubts, you can try contacting the chiller manufacturer and see what they recommend>> And is this even a feasible idea to do? <<Sure, but will take a strong pressure-rated pump to accomplish>> The pump would be gravity fed with tubing going from sump into the closet where the chiller pump would be located. (Hopefully this will feed the pump correctly...) <<Should do, yes>> Also, would I plumb the chiller pump into the same section of the sump that the return pump is plumbed to? <<Oh! I'm glad you mentioned this! (Doh!) If you plumb the chiller in this manner your tank's overflows will need to be able to handle the additional flow...best to plumb the chiller back to the sump (place the temperature probe from the chiller controller in to the tank itself) to keep from adding any burden to the overflows and increasing noise/bubbles/other plumbing hassles...assuming they can handle the additional flow at all >> Thank you so much!!! Nick in Las Vegas, NV (it's hot out here... sigh) <<Happy to assist. EricR in also hot 'and humid as heck' Columbia, SC>>

Re: Plumbing A Chiller (Location/Figuring Headloss/Sizing The Pump) -- 07/31/07 Hi again, <<Hello Nick>> Need to clarify something. <<Okay>> In the last answer to my question, Eric said that I should plumb the chiller back to the sump in case my overflows can't handle the extra flow. <<Indeed...I did make this statement>> But I would like to have the return from the chiller go back in to the main tank and branch off into a return manifold PVC. <<This is a possibility, but only if your overflows/bulkheads are sized to handle this additional flow...and you can live with/deal with the additional noise/plumbing hassles>> Is that not a good idea then? <<Depends...re my previous statement>> Would I have to buy yet another pump and drill another hole in the main tank directly to create a closed-loop return manifold? <<If you want a true 'closed-loop' yes...plumbing from/through the sump is not 'closed.' Do also realize that considering the high flow capacity of this chiller, you can plumb the chiller in-line with the closed-loop rather than feeding it from the sump. This would solve any issues with the overflows and keep you from having to purchase an additional pump...though with the location of the chiller this will indeed entail a large/powerful pump to achieve maximum flow rate. In the end it may well be more efficient/satisfying to plumb the chiller from the sump and back again with a small(ish) pump and install a separate closed-loop for flow within the display>> I was hoping to not have to do this, by just utilizing the return from the chiller into the main tank. <<Understood...and can be done, with caveats>> Thanks for the follow-up input! Nick <<Happy to help. EricR>> PS: sometimes after a sentence, all I get is <> with nothing in between... is something not coming thru to my email? I don't want to lose any info that may have been erased in transit. I need all the info I can get! lol. <<Mmm, troubling...it does indeed appear that some of my responses were omitted in your returned mail. I can't say for certain, but since yours is the only complaint of such that I am aware I have to guess the problem is on your end. Perhaps your mail program has issues with the carrots ( <> ) we use to delineate our responses. Do check the 'Dailies' page (http://wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs3.htm) for our 'complete' exchange. Yesterday's responses will still be posted until Bob places the new queries sometime this afternoon. EricR>>

Heat Issues...Where Do I Place A Chiller? -- 06/15/07 Hello crew- <<Greetings Lithy>> Read thru the chillers page and learnt a bunch about sizes, stands and plumbing. <<Ah...but have you read/learned enough? [grin]>> I have an acrylic 100G with 2 x 250W + actinics. The light fixture has efficient fans built in but when it is on and the open-top canopy is in place the water temp will climb 3-5 F above room temp over the course of the photoperiod. <<Yes...very common...have you tried placing a small fan to blow across the water's surface for evaporative cooling?>> This means that if the forecast is for 78F or higher in need to run the central A/C when I am at work when I normally wouldn't. <<I see>> I think a chiller, while not required, would save me electricity in the long run. <<Mmm, maybe...but I would try my fan suggestion first>> I have not found much about the issue of placing in-line chillers in the stand. <<Have done so...and 'do not' recommend. You think your house gets warm now!...>> From what I can tell most manufactures say this MUST NOT be done due to poor ventilation. <<Yes...and do realize the energy/warmth pulled from the water by the chiller; as well as that generated by the chiller's motor and compressor itself, is expelled in to the stand/room. Though sometimes difficult, these units are best plumbed/placed in remote (outside) locations>> I have a large ~30g sump in my stand, which has is almost fully open in the back and about 4" away from a wall. <<Hmm...placing a small fan to blow on the water's surface in the sump will also provide some cooling effect>> Inside the cabinet there is a space next to the sump of 15"W x 22"L x 20"H; most chillers will use this space almost entirely leaving little room around it for ventilation. Questions: 1) Would you recommend getting a chiller in this stand (I live in a small condo so this is the only location option)? <<I would not...any electrical savings you think you are going to realize will be negated by having to run the central AC more often and/or at a lower temperature to compensate for the heat being pumped in to the room by the chiller unit>> I would use a submersible pump from the sump to the chiller and back to the sump. 2) If not, is it ok if on average the tank temperature fluctuates about 5F over the course of the day without exceeding 82F? 84F? <<Many might state otherwise, but in my opinion/experience, yes, this is fine (though at the upper limits) if the change is gradual and the tank/occupants are otherwise very healthy. But I am sure you could at the least 'reduce' this fluctuation through some evaporative cooling as explained>> Any fish or invertebrates that I should NOT buy if the tank runs above 80F on a daily basis? <<Mmm, most all truly tropical species sold in the trade experience such temperatures>> Thx!!!! Lithy <<Regards, Eric Russell>> Water flow'¦pumps'¦chiller'¦plumbing issues  2/5/07 Hello Crew: <Hey Justin, what's up?> First of all I would like to say that your site has been really helpful with getting through some problems with my own setup. I know you all get a lot of emails so I will keep it short. <Thank you for the compliments.> I just need some advice. <I will do my best.> In my 125 gallon full reef setup, I have a 1/4 CoraLife in line chiller that is hooked up to a 750gph mag drive pump. <Okay.> The chiller, per CoraLife, has a recommended pump rate of 475-800gph. The hoses to and from the chiller are approximately 4 feet in length. The problem that I am having is that there does not seem to be a lot of water current coming out of the return pipes for optimum water movement. I know that there is nothing wrong with the chiller as this is been happening since it came out of the box. <If I am reading this correctly, you are utilizing the same pump to supply water to your chiller as well as return water from your sump area to the display'¦with the 8 feet total of piping (including turns, etc. .) there is a lot of head loss here. I personally prefer to use a dedicated supply pump from the chiller to the tank, and of course a dedicated return pump. Furthermore you mention there is not a lot of head pressure from the return tank to sustain water movement. I don't like to rely on the return pump to provide adequate water flow to the entire tank because ideally you don't want more than 5-10x the tank volume moving through the sump an hour'¦.especially if you have a skimmer in the sump processing the overflow water.  I would rather rely on closed-loop systems or even powerheads to make up for this and create a turbulent environment.> Additionally, when the in line chiller is removed from the setup, the pump works fine. <Less resistance.> Can I put a bigger pump behind the chiller for a more rapid output in the tank? If I put a pump in line larger than 800 gph will it damage the chiller? <It won't break it but it will not be work properly (the water won't be inside the chiller long enough to be cooled).> Any other ideas of what to do would be great as well. <See the above.> Thanks so much and keep up the great work guys and gals. <Thank you.> Justin <Adam J.>

Plumbing problems My first attempt didn't seem to get through <MSN did have a few problems for about one day a little while back.> Hi Guys, I finally broke down and bought an in-line chiller and thought that it would be easy to plumb. Wrong again. The inlet and outlet for the chiller is above the level of the sump and the pump. Needless to say I can't get the lines to fill with water and pump back up to the tank. How do I get a siphon and will it last when the pump is shut down? <You really do not want to have a siphon.> As an add on to the last e-mail concerning the plumbing of the chiller, I have an Iwaki pump which pushes 1200 GPH. The chiller inflow port is 2' higher than the sump. <Ok> I have 1" I.D. tubing going from the sump, through the chiller, back down to the pump and up 4' to the tank. <Wait a minute. Are you attempting to suck water from the sump through the chiller and then up to the tank? That is what it sounds like and that is not the way to do this. Very simply, have your Iwaki pump suck water from the sump through a bulkhead fitting. Then pump through the chiller and then continue up to the tank.> I hope that this clears up the situation better. How can I obtain and retain a siphon? <A siphon is the wrong way to go.> Thanks as always, Joe <Talk to you later. -Steven Pro>

- Plumbing in the Chiller - Yo WWM dudes, "Capt. Nemo" here, <Yo, do you have a submarine named the Nautilus?> I have a "shark victim" customer with major problems. They just bought a 125-gallon aquarium and cabinet from a local shop "shark" (if you get my drift), and they are now having nothing but trouble. Soon after, they heard about us (bad timing). They came down to our showroom and were very impressed with our systems but since they already have a "system", for lack of a better word, they are reluctant to buy a whole new system, which I can sympathize with. I agreed that I would try to design a retrofit system to eliminate all the problems they have (abysmal filtration, super-puny pump, a 400 GPH submersible as the main pump!, i.e., almost no water flow, and a lot of heat. All the coral and fish they purchased (from the shark) are all dead. Truly a shame. <Indeed.> Most of the redesign is no problem except that they purchased (from the shark) an in-line chiller to minimize the heat, which they want to continue to use (they paid over $750.00 for it). Since I've been able, so far, to design systems without the need for a chiller, I'm trying to figure out how to integrate the chiller they have without restricting the water flow. According to various sources, water flowing through the chiller will restrict the flow from the main pump 2-4 feet worth of head. Part of my original design was to install a high-power pump (at least 1400 GPH) to run the system. In a nutshell, here are two questions: If I plumb the system with the chiller in-line, does that drastically reduce the flow? <To an extent, yes, but more importantly too high of a flow through the chiller will drastically reduce it's ability to chill the water and in turn the chiller's efficiency.> If so, can I plumb the system using the same main high-output pump and then add a second, lower-output pump to circulate water only through the chiller? <Yes.> It seems to me that the second option would be best. <This is the best, and in my opinion only option that will "work".> This adds a second pump but it seems overall, it would stress the low-power pump less than making the high-power pump work hard for nothing. This would leave the main pump to get that water moving. Any thoughts or pearls of wisdom (pardon the pun)? <None other than what you've already covered... seems to me that you're on it.> Steve "Capt. Nemo" Bicker <Look out for that Maelstrom - Cheers, J -- >

AZOO chiller hi there, I am having problem to determine what is the right way to install all the pipes from the tank to the chiller and vice versa.....wondering if anyone can help on this very situation and also I would like to know how to clean the chiller so that it will work properly and keeps the tank cool. thanks in advance for any help at all. Calvin < http://www.azoo.com.tw/azoo_en/modules.php?name=Product_Review&bkid=41 Not much to do with this/these types of units... there is a single in/out plumbing fitting to the Titanium exchange section... you want/need to provide a pump to run water through the unit... best to push rather than pull... and this pump can also service other devices if you'd like... as in a sump, skimmer... Keeping it clean entails situating the chiller where it can get good air-circulation and occasionally vacuuming the outside to keep it dust free. Bob Fenner>

Re: AZOO chiller hey Bob, thanks a lot for your information....however, I would like to know which one of the two sources (on top of the chiller) is in and which one is out. someone suggests that the right pole is in and left pole is out........someone else suggests the opposite.......wondering if you can provide me with this very information. thank you in advance. Calvin <Mmm, doesn't actually matter... one in, one out. Bob Fenner>

Flow Meter 12/16/04 Hi Bob, <Anthony Calfo in his stead :)> I'm setting up a new 175gal reef tank & I was hoping to get some advice from you on where I can get a flow meter for my chiller line.   <many of the online mail order companies stock such parts if you ask... the specialty places in particular like MarineDepot.com or CustomAquatic.com, perhaps... else you can try aquaculture suppliers like Area Inc. in (Homestead?) Florida... do an Internet Yellow pages search for these folks. I am sure they stock this item> I've seen this mentioned on the site in various places but I'm not sure which type to get (or where to get it).  I don't want to put something in that will pollute the water in some way.   <seek all plastic... avoid all brass parts which are FW safe but not SW safe> I have a 3/4" flexible hose connection off a feed from my main pump. Thx very much Mike <kindly, Anthony>

Chillers and UV Hi, I've read for hours/days/weeks.  Learned MUCH!  I am setting up a 300 gallon Reef (96 x 24 x 30). Sump is fed by two 2" drains from overflows on each end. Sump also feeds a refugium which feeds back into the sump. Return from sump to tank is Velocity T-4 @ 1250gph @ 4' head.  The tank also is plumbed with a 1" bulkhead for a closed loop system that returns to the tank via a manifold around the top with multiple outlets. The question is regarding this closed loop system. I want to run my 1/2 HP chiller (I live in Florida) and 80W UV filter on this closed loop. Is there any reason why I can't do this? The UV filter is 2" in diameter and the Chiller is 1.5" in diameter. As long as my pump is rated to take the extra head, then why not?? <It would be fine but I would add a mechanical filter to the inlet of the U.V. and then plumb the chiller next.  The idea is that you do not want detritus to pass through the U.V.  It makes it less efficient.> (pump planned for this is Blue Line 70HD @ 1750 gph @ 4 feet, more like 1500 gph with the extra head caused by the UV and Chiller and the necessary plumbing). Also note that both the chiller and UV are rated to take this much flow, so that is not an issue. My concerns are that if I run the chiller and UV off of the sump then I'll be taking away from the already "low" return from the sump.  Heck, I've seen the inside of the chiller...its just a 4" diameter PVC pipe with a cooling coil inside...so I don't think that some circulating detritus could hurt it... Finally, can the 1" bulkhead support a closed loop flow of 1500 gph? <1" bulk heads can handle comfortably 700 gph I would recommend something larger.  The detritus will make the chiller and U.V. work less efficiently.  If you add a mechanical filter before U.V. and chiller then you should be fine.> Thanks!! Jim <Good Luck. MikeB.> Pump for Chiller Hi Guys <Hello Wallace> Just had a question regarding chillers in for the aquarium (Its summer over here). I have a 5ft long tank, (approx 3ft deep, 2ft wide). Its basically a salt water reef and fish tank with live rock. During summer, I'm hitting max of 93F(34-35 degrees Celsius) , but usually hovering around 86F(30 degrees Celsius). I have a chiller (Resun CL450) but my question is, what type of pump should I use with this sort of chiller (as it didn't come with one) ? Unfortunately I don't have the box that came with the chiller when I first bought it, but I don't remember a recommendation written on the box nonetheless. I'm sure that the water pump shouldn't be too fast or it won't chill the water enough or as efficient. And I'm sure the water pump shouldn't be too slow as it wont be chilling its maximum potential amount of water. Would you be able to help out here ? Is there a rough guide as to what how big the pump should be (how many liters/gallons per hour) the pump should be for this sort of tank? <Wallace, I can tell you that the chiller you have is designed to handle up to a 380 gallon tank.  If I were in your position I'd probably use a large Eheim pump, or another brand with an equal pressure rating. I don't believe a regular power head will do the trick. One way to make sure you are not pumping the water too fast through the chiller is to use a digital thermometer and place the probe near the outlet to monitor the temperature of the chilled water.  In a tank your size (225), I'd like to see around 2300gph of total circulation.> Thanks! <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Re: Pump for Chiller  12/20/2005 Hi James <Hello Wallace> Thanks for the advice!! <You're welcome> I am looking at the Eheim pumps, and they range from about 300l/h (79US g/hour) to about 2280l/h (602 US G/hr) .. would you suggest that I get a pump around the 300 / 600Liters/hour or higher towards the 1200/2280 liter / hr ? <I would go with the 600 gph.  You can always throttle it down with a gate valve.  I'm thinking your chiller is efficient enough to process that amount of water per hour.  James (Salty Dog)> Thanks again!

Chiller Pump - 12/25/05 My tank is around 890 L and the sump around 175 L.  With the return pump rated at 3400 l/h, I expect less when running through the chiller. <<Yep>> Do you think the two Tunze Turbelle Stream 6100 pumps, Which can provide a flow rate from 4000 to 12000 l/h plus the return pump, Will provide enough flow for my fish only tank. <<Should be fine.>> I wish to provide the best conditions possible. <<Be sure to research your fish selections thoroughly...before purchase.>> Please advise if you think there are any further mod.s to be done. <<I have none, based on the information provided.>> Thank you for your time and knowledge, Alan <<I hope it has been of help, EricR>>

Plumbing A Chiller And Skimmer Together - 03/01/06 Hello wet web, <<Hey Mike>> Here is another question for you.  I'm trying to configure my chiller (1/5 JBJ Arctica) and my Skimmer (Bermuda BPS-150) to run on the same pump. <<Not the best of plans...in my opinion.>> The chiller is rated for 480/1320gph and the skimmer is rated for about 700/800gph.  I would be using either the Mag-Drive 9.5 or the Hagen 70 which are both rated at about 950gph. <<Not big enough to run both.  Were this me, I would use one of these pumps for EACH piece of equipment here.>> My question is, would I be able to run these two components on the same pump? <<Not recommended...even if it were large/powerful enough.  Too much trouble to try to "balance" the flow...the skimmer more than the chiller will suffer for this.>> First I would have the pump pumping from the aquarium down to the chiller (4' below) and back up to the skimmer (4' back up). This would bring the gph down to about 750/800gph. Would this configuration work or will the skimmer slow the gph down too much for the chiller? <<Ah, ok...not what I was envisioning.  I still don't think it's a "great" idea, but it would probably work.  You may well find that you need to push more water through your chiller to optimize its performance than your skimmer can handle.  If you find you need to change things around later it shouldn't be a difficult fix so...why not...give it a try.  Do make sure the pump is pulling raw water from where it "enters" the sump from the overflow.>> Thanks for the help Mike <<Regards, EricR>> Flow rates for my chiller... pump sel. in the UK   2/7/06 Good evening crew, <Paul> I wonder if you could help me? I have just re-set up my tank and I have installed my Aqua medic titan 1500 chiller about 15' away from my tank, (it's in a cupboard under the stairs). <I see> The pump that I am using is an Eheim 1262 to send the water from the sump and then back to the tank which is above the sump, so the water has to go 30' in total and then up 5' to go back into the tank, to be honest I don't think that the Eheim can handle the flow required to make the chiller work properly. <Yikes...> When I switch the chiller on the digital temp gauge starts to go up and not down, so I turn it off after a couple of minutes, could you recommend a stronger pump (I have been looking at the mag pumps on the American sites), or the other alternative is to get a chiller that works on a slower flow, what do you guys think? All the best Paul, England <You do need a fluid-moving pump of greater pressure/flow characteristic. Am unfamiliar with what stockists in your country have (in 50 Hz, 220 V)... but would look at performance curves re the run and head you state, bring information with you re the fitting, plumbing diameter for all, and ask various opinions there. More than about 5-10 turns (total volume) per hour become "not worth" the effort here. Bob Fenner>

Flow-Through Chiller Plumbing - 07/16/06 Hi there, <<Howdy!>> I am designing a new reef tank and would like to know whether an external chiller should receive the water though an extra drain from the tank and then return to the tank; OR return to the sump; OR receive and return from the sump? <<It's quite "plausible" to plumb the chiller as a closed-loop with its own dedicated pump, but I find it is quite "sufficient" to place the chiller in-line with the sump return pump...choice is yours my friend>> If the sump should be used, where should the in/out out holes be placed; i.e. top, bottom, etc... Thanks for your time. <<Hmm...water will enter the sump via the overflow drains and exit through the chiller via connection to the return pump...no "holes" needed...if I understand what you're asking that is <grin> >> Regards, Shawn <<Cheers, EricR>>

Chiller Plumbing/Seeding Substrate -- 11/02/06 Hi Eric, <<Ken>> Thanks for the vote of confidence on the skimmer. <<No problem>> As you know, I am currently running an external pump from the sump, to the chiller, and to the tank. <<Yes>> I now want to run one pump from the sump directly to the tank and another pump from the sump to the chiller and back to the sump. <<Ok>> I already own the pumps anyway.  I am assuming that the chilled water will cool the tank the same as if it was going straight to the tank? <<It will...as long as the temperature sensor is in the display tank itself>> My question is for the chiller pump, where in the sump can I draw from and send back to with this pump. <<I would do this from/to the chamber where the external pump draws its water.  This will place the draw and return away from the skimmer, and the return will be where the chilled water is quickly picked up and moved to the tank>> My sump has two sections divided up by a few baffles.  There is the side where the water returns from the tank as well as where the skimmer draws from.  The other side of the sump (which is separated by a few baffles) from the other side is where the return to the tank pump is. <<This last is where I would plumb the chiller>> My question is does it matter where in the sump the pump to the chiller draws from and goes back to? <<It does in my opinion...as stated>> 1. Can it come from and go back to on the same side as the return pump? <<Yep>> I would assume that there would be no bubbles created from this pump since everything the entrance and exits from the pumps are all submerged. <<Assuming you don't have leaks in the plumbing <grin>...yes>> 2. Can it draw from the return side of the sump and go back to the side where the tank return is / skimmer side? <<It could...though I feel this is somewhat less efficient as you are re-pulling/recycling/rechilling water heated by the skimmer pumps.  Trivial maybe...>> I would assume that the chilled water would still hit the tank just as quickly. <<No...will get there quicker if returned to the side with the 'return pump'>> 3. Can I draw from the tank return side or would the bubbles from the tank turbulence go into the pump and into the chiller not be a good idea? <<Best to keep air out of the chiller>> Would it slow the flow? <<You're replacing water volume with air space...what do you think? <grin> >> I thought about what you said that it was a waste of money to buy the bagged live sand. <<Yes...better/less costly ways to introduce bacteria>> Now that the tank is almost cycled it does seem senseless. <<Indeed...the live rock is a much better/more diverse source for seeding your tank  than so called 'bagged' live sand>> Is there a brand of sand that you recommend? <<If you can find an aragonite 'play sand' at one of the home centers use that (usually about $8.00 for 50 lbs), else any fine aragonite commercial substrate will do (often almost a dollar a pound...ouch!)>> As I mentioned, I am going with a 3/4" depth for mainly aesthetics.  Am I supposed to get a grain size equal to or smaller than sugar grain? <<The inexpensive 'play' sand will be about sugar-size...but you can go with something larger (too about 3mm), even creating a mix if you wish>> Thanks for your help. Ken <<A pleasure to share.  Eric Russell>> Re: Chiller Plumbing/Seeding Substrate -- 11/02/06 Eric, <<Ken>> Thanks again. <<Quite welcome>> Man, all this work and nothing in my tank except rock. <<Your patience will pay off>> Have you heard of people plumbing the way I am (sump to chiller and back)? <<Yes...common when using separate pumps>> I think this is the best way for me to get the flow into the tank I want.  I will go from the return side to the chiller and back.  You don't think that the tank temp will be basically the same as the sump temp? <<Mmm...keep in mind the tank will have a heat source (lights) the sump doesn't have>> The dedicated chiller pump is going to flow water back and forth to and from the sump at say 600gph from 2 1/2 feet away.  This water will be going into the sump at the same place as the tank pump is flowing this chilled water to the tank.  I am asking this because my probes are in the sump.  The pH and temp probe have to be near each other. <<I see...then I would obtain a digital temperature monitor so as to be able to monitor/check the temperature in the display.  The Pinpoint monitor would work well, and would allow you to monitor/compare both the sump and the tank temps with the use of multiple sensors (I think the unit can monitor up to five sensors at a time)>> Lastly, I was thinking that I would be running the dedicated pump for the chiller and often times the chiller will not be on (if I am lucky).  I was wondering if it would be OK to plug both the chiller and the pump into an appropriately rated power strip and then this into my controller which controls the temperature? <<I wouldn't do this; you will want the pump to continue running even though the chiller is not>> This way the pump can remain off until the chiller has to go on. <<Any water in the line will become anaerobic very quickly, likely creating hydrogen sulphide...not a good idea>> This may be a dumb question, but is it ok to have the pump off for an extended amount of time and have water in the lines? <<Nope...for the reason stated>> Would I get hydrogen sulfide? <<Bingo!>> The input and output would be submerged of course but no flow. <<The bacteria in the water would quickly consume the available oxygen>> Would this constitute a stagnant area and go anaerobic? <<Bingo again!>> Thanks and regards, Ken <<Always welcome.  EricR>>

R2: Chiller Plumbing/Seeding Substrate - 11/02/06 Eric, <<Ken>> Thanks. <<Welcome>> Tomorrow I get my skimmer and will re-do the plumbing. <<Cool>> At the end of the day I will either have a smile on my face or will have thrown a hammer through the wall. :) <<Ah yes...good times ahead... <grin> >> Regards, Ken <<Be chatting.  Eric>> R3: Chiller Plumbing/Seeding Substrate - 11/03/06 Hi Eric, <<Hey Ken>> One last thing.  Is there any loss at all on with my pump if on the suction side that I use two 90-degree elbows from the sump to the pump instead of using spa flex? <<Ells on either side of the flow will cause a decrease...ideally the plumbing should be as "clean" as possible either way.  If you prefer the hard plumbing, and there is room, try using two 45-degree ells for each 90-degree ell as this will provide a bit less resistance to flow>> If not, does this increase flow as two 90's would on the discharge end? <<...?  Do you mean "decrease"?  Two 90-degree ells on the discharge side will cause an increase in "resistance" equal to adding about two feet of head height>> Thanks, Ken <<Regards, EricR>> One question (Chiller plumbing, marine system) Hey Robert I am wondering if I should plumb the water from the chiller directly back in the tank or have it go back in the sump? <To your tank is better> I don't the corals and fish to stress out in any way, any recommendations??? Thanks Walter <Mmm, suggestions re chillers? Please read through the few archived FAQs here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chillersmar.htm following links, FAQs beyond. Bob Fenner>

CustomSeaLife Inline Power Coolers 1/3Hp Hi! <Back atcha> May I know what is the recommended pump for the above chiller?  <no idea whatsoever, but thanks for asking <G>> I was told Rio 2500HP is enough but was wondering if Rio 3100HP would be better or is it too high end? <do consider contacting the manufacturer for specs...too important a piece of information for speculation. Perhaps a reader of the Q&A page owning this model can advise us...will forward it along> Thank you! Regards, Thomas <hasta potato. Anthony>

Chiller for Reef Tank Can you tell me if there is a company that makes a chiller for a reef tank in two parts, condenser on the outside, chill water coil inside. Most house AC are made this way. It would keep the heat out of the room the reef tank is in and cut the cost of running the chiller. RGibson <None that I have seen. Most people I know plumb the chiller into a separate room, many times a garage, to vent the heat away from the tank. -Steven Pro>

Not Moving Query Before Answering.. Making a Tank Quieter and Cooler 4/6/05 (Whose Take?) Hi. I sent this e-mail to you last week and since I received no response, I thought maybe my Spam Blocker got it. So I am going to resend from a different e-mail address.  <Sorry that you didn't get a reply. With the huge volume of mail that we get, once in a while one gets blocked, bounced, lost, etc. Thanks for giving us a second chance!> I appreciate any help you can give me. (I have looked at other questions and answers on your site and they tend to conclude that: there is no quiet way to cool a tank with a chiller and the JBL chiller is probably the best on the market today. So maybe my questions below are not worth responding to.)  <All questions deserve a reply! Most chillers are noisy, but it is not hopeless.> I have two questions that are related. Let me start by describing my current setup. I have a 135 gallon reef aquarium with a 30 gallon sump. It is six feet long with 4 VHO lights (kept about 3 inches above the glass) and is used as a room partition with dedicated outlets in the cabinet under the tank. I had a custom cabinet built with the air vents on the 4 doors below, on both sides. I have a single return that is powered by a Mag 9.5 (950 GPH) pump. In addition to the return pump, in the sump I have a Aqua Medic Turboflotor protein skimmer powered by a Rio pump and also a smaller 200 gph Rio pump for more power through the skimmer. Finally I have a drop-in 1/4 HP Delta chiller with the coil placed in the sump. The tank is doing great.  <Sounds like a very nice set-up. Submersible pumps like the Rio and Mag add a surprising amount of heat!> I moved into an a/c apartment about 1 ½ [??] ago, which we keep about 68-72 degrees. Even in the winter my tank runs hot. The chiller is set to run when the temperature of the water is 77 degrees and it seems to be running 4-6 hours a day, mostly when the lights are on (which is around 11 hours per day). Without the chiller on, the tank will go above 85 degrees during the day and come down to around only 82 degrees at night. In the summer the temperature goes even higher.  <77 degrees is a bit on the low side for a target temperature. Most folks run their reef tanks at 80-82 degrees. In the summer I often tolerate up to 85. It is much more important to avoid spikes greater than about 5 degrees. Adding vents and fans to the cabinet and hood will help a lot. I had a very similar set-up and never needed a chiller.> Question 1: My wife complains about the noise since the tank is right in the middle of the living room/den. Any way that I can make the setup quieter?  <Since this is an apartment, you can't move the chiller to the basement. You can place the chiller on a vibration dampening pad.> Question 2: The chiller seems to be not performing well. I bought it about 3 years ago. I try to keep the water at about 77-79 degrees. Over the past couple of months, I have seen the tank go to 85 plus degrees and hear the chiller running but the coil is not very cold. (The grills are kept fairly clean and clear.) If I play with the chiller (jiggle the adjustable coil hose or turn the chiller off and back on) it seems to kick in better. With summer approaching I am getting nervous. Any ideas what I can do to cool the tank? Should I buy a new cooler that might work better? Is there a chiller out there that would also make the tank a little quieter.  <I am not sure which chiller will be quieter. I would have a pro look at your current chiller. It is often hard to find refrigeration or AC folks that will look at a chiller, but if you shop around you will find one.> Additional question to my earlier e-mail: If I get the JBL in-line chiller, with my set-up do you think I can get a Mag 12 (1200 GPH) pump, send the water first through the cooler and then straight back to the tank or do you think it is better to have another pump in the sump that sends the water to the chiller and back to the sump? Is the heat from adding another pump to the sump defeating the purpose of a chiller? <I would suggest one large external pump to supply both the chiller and the tank. This will reduce the heat being transferred to the tank. Running through the chiller to the tank will cost you a great deal of flow and may exceed the maximum pressure recommended by the manufacturer.> Thank you for your help. David
<Glad to help!>

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