ClnfshAnmF7

FAQs about the Clownfishes & Anemones, Hosts 7

Related Articles: Clownfishes, Clownfish & Anemone Compatibility By James Gasta, Maroon Clowns, Anemones,

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Long Tentacle Anemone and Clownfish 11/5/11
Hello,
With the help of you guys and some other research I have realized that I need to remove my Long Tentacle Anemone from my tank as it is going to get too big. The only problem is that it is being hosted by my only fish, an Ocellaris Clownfish. In general, he is in the anemone maybe 20% of the time during the day and around 90% of his time at night. Would separating him from his anemone be wrong?
<Wrong? Mmmm>
Will he become very aggressive?
<Not likely so; no>
He is currently the only fish in my Biocube 29 but I plan on adding 3 or 4 more. Also, I will be adding a BTA to my tank. Can I keep my clown or does he have to go with the anemone?
<Can be separated>
If he can stay does it make more sense to add the BTA before I remove the LTA?
<No... this would likely be trouble>
I really like this fish so I would love to keep him but I understand that I have to do what is best for the animals. This fish has already been through a lot as it was traumatized for a couple of weeks by another, vicious Ocellaris, to the point that it was so stressed that he had turned brown! I was able to sell the mean one back to my local fish store so it would be great if I could keep this guy!
Thanks for all of your help!
<This volume is really too small for a symbiotic anemone... too small a margin for safety should "something" go wrong... See WWM re their care. Bob Fenner>

Clownfish Open Mouth 8/26/08 Hello, <Adam> After reading through the many clownfish disease Q&As, I am still at a loss to the cause and the solution to the problem I am facing. <Ok> I currently have a 30 gallon long SW reef. Lit by 4 39w T5HO bulbs, skimmed with a Tunze Nano doc 9002, modded ac110 fuge with Chaeto, water flow from a Vortech mp20, Tunze Osmolator for top off, use only RO/DI 0ppm water, and I am also running some Chemi-pure elite and Purigen. My ammonia is 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ph 8.2, calcium 400, specific gravity 1.025, Alk 8, phosphate 0, and temp is 78 degrees. In terms of livestock, I have a coral beauty, two true Percs, an emerald crab, a pom pom crab, a porcelain crab, hermits, Cerith, Nassarius, 1 troches, 1 Mexican turbo, a tuxedo urchin. I had had the clowns for approximately two weeks before I noticed the problem. The first week they did not have a host and slept / played in the corner of my tank. The second week they found my frogspawn and have been hosted by it ever since. 3 days ago now I noticed that one of my Percs could no longer close his mouth (the other was and still perfectly is fine). I do not think it is genetic because the onset was quick, and he was not like this before hand. The first day he did not eat, yesterday he figured out how to eat with his mouth open. I also feed frozen Mysis (which the clowns do not like), Cyclop-eeze (which the clowns do like), reef Roids (for my Alveopora) and have Selcon for supplementation. I see no isopods in the mouth of the clown, and have attached a photo so you can have a look as well. All other evidence I can find of this phenomenon through Google and through WWM either have the clownfish recovering in a couple days or eventually not eating and dying, and no one knows what causes this. Obviously I would really prefer if I could find the cause and prevent my fish from dying. Thank you Adam <Is likely from the "meet and greet" process with the Euphylliid... Will likely cure itself in time. Bob Fenner>
Re: Clownfish Open Mouth 8/26/08 Today, day 4, it looks like he is getting movement back in his mouth! I think you are correct that it was from the frogspawn and hopefully he will fully recover. Thank you Adam <Thank you for this update. Excelsior! BobF>

clownfish hosting brain coral Hello crew! You guys rock, by the way! :) I just have a question about my two captive bred Ocellaris Clownfish... They were just added to my 20H where they are currently the only two fish in the neighborhood. There is no anemone in there for them because we are gearing this tank towards an all natural tank started with small frags of all captive grown and fragged coral from friends' tanks and from other responsible coral farmers who pull nothing from the ocean. Anyway, with such limited tank space, we are being very selective about the inhabitants and an anemone just doesn't seem worth the space it would need to account for it's possible in - tank movement and aggression. The clowns were just put in the tank about four days ago (moved from 6 weeks in a QT tank with tiny bit of copper cause a hippo tang in the large FOWLR they were in previously had contracted ich). After hiding for the first few hours, they chose to host an aprox. 4" red and green open brain, which is my BABY... It is the only coral in the tank that is not a small frag with the exception of a plate coral and a green mushroom rock, which I will be fragging soon for trade. The past couple days they seem to be beating up on it pretty badly, and both of them are spending quite a great deal of time diving into it and thrashing about on it. The brain has shown no obvious signs of terrible stress, but I'm concerned they might injure it. Is this possible? <Yes> Should I consider getting them an anemone or is there some other kind of coral they have been known to prefer hosting that would be less aggressive to other coral and could take the furious affection of these two adorable little guys? <Mmm... in a volume of this small size...?> A leather perhaps??? <Might work... but you'll need to move or shield the Trachyphylliid> I don't want the brain to go, but removing the clowns at this point would be an indescribable amount of work (though I'm sure you know how hard it is to dismantle an entire reef to catch a fish). Below I will include tank stats and also a pic of my prized brain. Any advice you could offer would be so helpful. Thanks so much, and we appreciate all your incredibly hard work to educate the masses. Liz and Jesse Tank stats: 20 gallon High 30 LBS live rock 4" sand bed 2 Ocellaris Clownfish open brain various mushrooms, Ricordea, plate coral, various polyps, xenia frag, clove polyp frag, green star polyps, and one frag green with purple rim Montipora (which we're only trying this early cause tank was set up using live rock and sand from tank that has been running for years), various LPS frags. roughly 10 Mexican red leg hermits, and around 5 or so various snails 1 pompom crab, 1 emerald crab 1x 150 w 14K HQI w/ 6 blue LED & 6 white LED moonlights (whites on 2 hours before and two hours after HQIs, which are on an 8 hour cycle. Blues on remaining 12 hours. 15 gallon sump with fuge chamber containing DSB, 10 LBS live rock and Chaeto power compact on fuge with lights on while HQIs are off. CoraLife protein skimmer (not sure which model off top of head, but know it is good for up to 60 or 70 gallons and seems to do a good job) specific grav. - 1.024 PH - 8.3 calcium - 400 Ammonia - 0 nitrite - 0 nitrate - undetectable phosphate - undetectable temp - 79-80 The only other fish we plan on adding (he just started his QT when the clowns moved out of that tank) is a Lubbock's wrasse cause we've had a small problem with bristle worms and thought he might help. (please note also that in pic there seems to be some debris settled onto brain. That is from the clowns diving in and around it, kicking up sand, and was never there before they were added to tank. The sand never stays long as it is blown off by gentle water current). <You appear aware of your options... either separation or shielding twixt these animals. For more: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshanemfaqs.htm and the linked files at top. Bob Fenner>

True Perc Clowns, Persistent Fin Rot, hosting with Euphylliid 8/21/08 Hello, and thank you in advance! <Howdy, welcome> About a month and a half ago we purchased two True Percula Clownfish, at a relatively young age. They were already paired, and went through a quarantine procedure for two weeks prior to addition to our main tank. There were no problems with either Clownfish during quarantine. Our tank is a 100 gallon drilled tank, with two power-heads, and a return pump running water from our sump/refugium tank (40 gallons) below. The parameters for the tank are as follows: 380 ppm Calcium 3.7 mEq/L Alkalinity 8.0 pH 0.1 ppm Nitrate 0.0 Nitrite 0.0 Ammonia <So far, so good> After addition to the main tank, the Clownfish both began to host our Torch Coral. They both received minor injuries to their tails, I'm assuming due to acclimation to the Coral, <I'd guess the same> and the males tail healed fine. However, the female developed a bacterial infection and fin rot on her tail, so we treated her for 5 days in a hospital tank with an external treatment called Maracyn. <Ah, yes... the antibiotic Erythromycin> The infection part of the rot (the white mucus looking material around the missing part of the tail) was completely gone, and her tail even began to heal a bit. However, almost immediately after adding her back into the main tank (maybe five hours,) the white film has come back and the rot has gotten worse. <More a burn than rot> Besides the physical rot on her tail fin, and the white mucus layer surrounding the rot, she seems completely fine. They're both eager to eat, very active, and I cannot find any other signs on her of infection or sickness. Should I treat her again? Or will it simply persist once I add her back to the main tank? <Mmm, if the fish appears fine otherwise, I'd leave it in the main tank...> Thank you very much for your time! Stephanie Judson <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Anemone and clowns, and Sexy Shrimp... 8/16/08 Hi crew, thank you so much for all your info it has helped many times over. I have a pair of Ocellaris clown fish in with my seahorses and they are getting too rowdy. I want to put them in their own 30 gallon tank with just them and an anemone. I have read these clowns favor the more difficult anemone like the carpet anemone. <... a poor choice as you state> Would you suggest trying the BTA and see if they take to it. I would like to have some sexy shrimp but have avoided them since my seahorses would like them for dinner. <Mmm, no... too big> Can I put the sexy shrimp in with a carpet anemone or will I be causing problems. <See WWM re their natural symbionts> After much reading I figured I cant have other anemones and would do better with one and only one. <None> I just wondered if putting in the sexy shrimp would cause an anemone fight between clown and shrimp. <Again... not a good idea at all> Thanks so much for your help. I found info on these things separate but not putting everyone together I hope I didn't waste your time. <Mmm, no... if this communication saves you from blatantly killing sea life, keeps you in the hobby, otherwise successful, it has been worth it. Bob Fenner>

Tomato Clown & LTA Hosting.... 8/9/08 Hi, <Good Afternoon! Yunachin here.> I just introduced an LTA into my tank in which my Tomato clown has lived for the past several months. It has been a week and the LTA has settled in and appears to be doing fine. <Good.> The clown, on the other hand, shows no interest in the LTA. I know hosting is not guaranteed, but I was wondering if it may take some time, or, if it was going to happen it would have by know. This clown has shown interest in another anemone in the past, but one I have since lost. <Nothing to worry about at all. In my experience with several species of clowns and anemones, I have had different results each and every time. I have seen clowns take to anemones within a day, and some it took 6 months. Some, that I house ignore anemones completely and go to anemone-like coral. In a nutshell, give it some time and if it is meant to be it will happen. If not, if everyone is healthy and happy then you have a beautiful new anemone to enjoy just for yourself.> Regards, <Have a great day! -Yunachin> Mike

24 gal. Nano... Anemone/Clown non-pairing mostly 8/8/08 Hi. I am a beginner and have a 24 gallon Nano tank, that currently just has live rock, some brittle stars, snails, and a bubble tip anemone <Needs more room than this> with a percula clownfish. I used to have a blue tang, <... inappropriately stocked here> but the second day I had him he had showed signs of velvet and unfortunately died 2 days later. It struck hard. During the signs on the blue tang I started to add garlic to their food, brine shrimp. Also did a water change, and cleaned the filters after the tang passed. The clownfish was fine, stayed far from the anemone still since they were just introduced to each other. Then about a week later the clown, who was still eating fine, started to just hang around the anemone and would just gently touch upon him, nothing noticeable unless up close. A few days after he was snuggling up to the anemone the clownfish all of a sudden just started to swim upside down, on the side, as if he wasn't in any control. He wouldn't budge if my hand was near him or anything. He had no signs of spots, filmy eyes, lethargic breathing, or scratching. Just spazzy swimming. <Not "welcomed" by the anemone> I felt horrible knowing that there was only an unfortunate outcome. But I can not decipher what had happened to him, and I would like your advice on the subject so that I may be able to notice and hopefully prevent it in the future as well as just be able to know and understand what happened. Thank you very much. <Mmm, well... it turns out that the mutual symbiosis so often touted twixt Amphiprionines and Actinarians is a "learned trait"... and that such "marriages aren't always made in heaven"... Sometimes clowns and host anemones don't form happy relationships... particularly if the anemone is overly stressed... likely in such small volumes that are inherently unstable. Please read re...: http://wetwebmedia.com/small.htm "and the linked files above"... Bob Fenner>

Re: Hi, just a question about my (surface loving) clownfish, Anemone 5/13/08 Hi team! <Hello> Just writing to report that my clownfish are still happy and healthy (and extremely cute). <Good> Just thinking of getting an anemone for my pair to host. <Definitely requires a step up in care over the clowns.> I can't work out whether they are ocellaris or true Perculas because they are always moving too fast for me to count the spines in their fins, but I assume they are the more common ocellaris because they are more yellowy. <Most likely.> Just wondering - if I got a compatible anemone, what are the chances that they will become "friends"? the guy in the fish shop says that they almost certainly hang out together eventually, but just takes time. Is this true? <They may, however tank raised clowns often do not host. They would be fine without one.> I'm especially worried because my fish like to be near the surface all the time and they might not want to be wherever my anemone decides to be. Thanks again! Ps. I attached a pic, just because I'm in love and I want to share the love. Here they are up at the surface as usual. Splashing the water around as usual.
Lai
<Very nice.>
<Chris>

PS: Hi, just a question about my (surface loving) clownfish -5/13/08 PS. I also have an extremely clean, obsessive compulsive scarlet cleaner shrimp, who is especially keen to clean these guys but they wont have a bar of it. Will that change in time? Is it ok to have a lonely, rejected shrimp always attempting to clean these guys? He's always jumping around the tank everywhere to try and get them. <Often small aquarium fish do not allow themselves to be cleaned. Normal behavior all around.> <Chris>

Clownfish Stop Hosting -- 4/23/08 Hello crew, <Hello Aaron, Brenda here! I have received both of your e-mails and will combine them into one here. > As always thanks for the info on your site and thank you in advance for this question. <You're welcome! > Tank stats - 75g 2.5 years in the making, LPS and softies. Ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate-3, P04 undetectable (no algae except on skimmer spout) Ca-420 consistent, Alk - 9.2 consistent, PH 8.0 in evening and 8.15 prior to lights out. Temp 80 degrees.. less the 2 degree shift through out the day. Lights 2x150w 14k phoenix MH's, 2x130w VHO actinic. <Sounds like a nice setup! > I was at the LFS and saw some beautiful BTA's. There were about 10 or so in the tank with 2 clowns. The clowns were hopping from anemone to anemone. Sooo cool :-). I just had to buy (Saturday). So I got the 2 clowns and a RBTA that looked very healthy. I think things are going great. After acclimating, the clowns went right into the anemone. After a couple hours I fed and they all ate. The next day (yesterday Sunday) I woke up and things were great. Later that afternoon I fed the anemone a silverside and the fish some pellets. <A whole Silverside? That is much too large of a portion. Feed portions no bigger than the anemones mouth. Feeding too large of portions will cause regurgitation several hours later. > Again they all ate. A couple hours after that the clowns stopped hosting. That evening, when lights went out, the clowns just hovered around the anemone but would not touch it. The anemone looks great - colorful, bubbly. This morning again they seem to stay inches from the anemone but will not touch it. It almost appears like they desperately want to go into the anemone but wont. Any ideas? Am I being paranoid and should just give it time? Please advise. <Normally I would say this is likely caused from the disrupt in their environment. However, in this case it sounds like they may be spooked. Are there any crabs in the tank that may be hanging out near the anemone? I was doing some reading. Is it possible that the coating that protects the clown from the sting has thinned out and the clown may be getting stung? <This is a possibility. Since they were recently hosting, I don't see this as being likely. You may want to consider feeding foods soaked in Selcon to help with nutrition. > Thank you. Aaron <You're welcome! Brenda >

Re: Clownfish Stop Hosting -- 4/23/08 Thank you for your reply. <You're welcome! > There was no crab or anything hovering around but I'm glad to say they are back into their routine. The following day they were hosting again. <Good to hear! > Now the female (I'm guessing) has booted the male out during light hours. <This is typical. > Its pretty funny to watch him try and sneak in then get chased away and do his little I submit quiver dance. She is gradually getting better with him and allowing him to get closer. <Good! > At night they both sleep in the anemone. Got to show him who is boss I guess. <You got it! > I think the drastic change in environment had them a little confused and what not. <It sounds like it. > I will reduce the amount of silverside I feed. Thank you for that. <You're welcome! > Also will look into the Selcon. <Great! > Regards and keep it reef Aaron <Good luck to you Aaron! Brenda>

Clownfish/Compatibility 4/23/08 Hi, <Hello> Thanks so much for the goldmine of knowledge that is wetwebmedia.com. <You're welcome.> I've researched, but believe that my question needs to be met with your truly expert advice. My 75 gallon aquarium currently houses a dwarf Flame Angelfish, a Sixline Wrasse, a Mandarin Dragonette (many copepods present in tank), a Fire Goby, Bali Starfish, and a cleaner shrimp. As for corals: a Colt Coral, Frogspawn, Trumpet Coral, colony of Zoanthids, and xenia. Will a Black Percula Clownfish be compatible with this assortment of life? <Sure.> Do you think that it could damage the frogspawn by trying to host in it? <Won't help much if the clownfish is causing the coral to close. If the clownfish is tank bred, the odds of it hosting in anything are slim.> I intend for the clownfish to be my last addition, but I'd also like to know your opinion of whether this may be too many fish. <You are fine here.> Water quality seems to be great according to my testing kits. I do weekly 10% water changes using Reef Crystals salt mix and no additional dosing of minerals. <Sounds good to me my friend.> Thanks so very much. Your opinions are greatly valued! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Clownfish/BTA Compatibility 4/22/08 I recently asked a question about lighting, tank cover and wrasses. The advice was right on! Just wanted to let the crew know that I have 2 ocellaris that have adapted perfectly to a Bubble Tip. The clowns are tank raised. Don't know the origin of the anemone. They took about 2-3 weeks to get together. Have been thriving for about 6 mos. Just thought some of your readers may like to know this. <Thanks for sharing your experience, Roger. James (Salty Dog)> Roger

Saddleback clamfish Crazy Clowns hosting in Clam 3-31-08 Hi crew, <Good Morning. Yunachin here.> Is it unusual that my two Saddleback clowns have hosted in my Derasa clam? The clam never closes on them and despite having a giant long tentacle anemone to go to, they choose the clam. <Not common but not uncommon either.> Even when my Six-line wrasse is chasing them down (which I don't understand either), <Wrasse can have little attitudes especially with new fish.> they could easily attain safety if they go to the long tentacle anemone, but they just try and dodge the Six-line in the clam. They have only been in the tank about a week... perhaps they will figure out the wrasse will no longer nip them in the safety of the long tentacle after some time. <Hopefully. I would watch them very carefully as clams do have a taste for fish. I have seen many a clam take fish down quickly, if you get concerned you can always move the clam to a spot that they cannot get to right away, then if frightened, they will book to the Long Tentacle. After they take to the LTA, then you can move the clam to wherever you see fit.> Thanks~Alan <You're welcome! --Yunachin>

Hairy Mushroom [not] 03/25/08 Hello, I purchased a large mushroom shown in the attached pictures some time ago, it is in my Red Sea Max. I assume it is a hairy mushroom but not exactly sure? <Oooo, no, not a Corallimorph. It is a leather coral, looks like a Sarcophyton sp.> As you can see it is budding (if this is the correct term) a new mushroom from its base which seems to be doing really well. As I understand it, it will move further out from the shade and grow full size. What I am not sure of is if it will detach itself <likely> and how long will it take? <It just depends on how fast it grows.> I was also thinking of propagating this 'fledgling' and I am not sure how long to leave it before I do this? <Leather corals are very easy to frag. You can do this at any time you like if you don't want to wait for it to detach on its own. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/softcorpropfaqs.htm> You can also see that my Maroon Clown has 'moved in', it seems to act as if it were an anemone, is this normal? <This is quite common.> I do have a sand anemone (but it usually only opens up at night) which the clown ignores. Any ideas? <Not really. It's difficult to "force" these things. The only "trick" I've heard of that might work for helping anemones and clown fish "bond" is to put the two in a small bucket together for a little while (but not long enough for the water to spoil). I don't know if this works, but Rod Buehler says it can sometimes. You might also read through some of the info here on WWM, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clwnfshanefaqs.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnanemfaq2.htm ...and other pages.> Thanking you in advance for any help you can give. Colin
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Clown/BTA possible problem. -02/25/08 Good afternoon <Hi John, Mike I here today> I am in the UK and have a quick question, after lots of asking and trawling I haven't been able to find any reference to the clown behaviour I am experiencing. <OK, go ahead> I have a young pair of False Percs who have recently settled in a new Bubbletip anemone I have acquired. The anemone is looking healthy albeit slightly bleached. I have been concentrating on target feeding to keep the health up. however since the clowns have moved in I am having problems. Each time I feed about 1/2" fresh squid the anemone happily takes it. however soon after the female clown nudges, pushes and swims into the mouth to try to open it. The anemone soon give ups and releases the food - which the clowns aren't interested in. <Devils!> I have witnessed the clowns eating waste parcels from the anemone so assume they are trying to 'coax' more out of the vending machine. Have I got this right or is this some other kind of behaviour? Any suggestions? Many thanks for the help and good work on the site! John <Well, John, feeding anemones when you have a clown like this can be a bit if a pain. I suspect the behaviour is pure greed. There are other species that do exhibit this behaviour more, for other reasons (protection) but wouldn't imagine this being the case here. A couple of tips to hopefully help you along: Feed the clowns immediately prior to feeding the anemone - with a bit of luck they will be too full to bother the anemone. My clowns have always started to "store" food in the anemone tentacles when they get full, and then this is consumed the anemone, so this is a tactic you can use to your advantage. If that fails, feed the anemone at night. After the lights have been off a fair while, the clowns will be "sleeping", simply feed the anemone then, and knock the light off once it's got a good hold. Again, hopefully this should keep them from bothering the anemone while it eats. Good luck, and hope that helps. Mike I>

Re: Clown/BTA possible problem. 2/27/08 Many thanks for the reply Mike. I thought I had it cracked after feeding tonight but just after I got your mail I noticed a stray bit of squid and a guilty looking clown. The most annoying thing is that the clowns don't want the squid, just the faeces! I've got another bit in the anemone and turned down to moon lights. That seems to have calmed the clowns right away - never thought of that! As soon as this bit of squid has disappeared in the mouth I will turn lights out and fingers crossed! With any luck when the anemone is stronger and has regained zoo, it will be better suited to hold on to its dinner. Thanks again for the help! <Good luck with it, John, and thanks for the thanks!. Mike I>

Maroon Clownfish Loving its Anemone to Death, Overfeeding -- 2/20/08 Greetings WWM Crew, <Hello Mike, Brenda here!> First I'd just like to say thanks for having such a great site with so much useful information. I've been using it quite a bit since I found it. First I'd like to give a little info on my tank... 36 gallon bow, Almost 7 months old, 50 lbs live rock and 40 lbs of live sand filtration/skimming: Aquaclear 50 running the foam insert and ChemiPure, SeaClone 100 <SeaClone skimmers are not the best. I recommend looking into a better product.> Circulation: Hydor Koralia Nano 1, Power Sweep 226, 130w PC fixture, 1 65w 10K and 1 65w actinic; lighting period ~11.5 hours H2O Quality: ph 8.3, SG 1.024 <Gradually increase salinity to 1.026.> ammonia undetectable, nitrite undetectable, nitrate ~10 +/- <Nitrates need to be zero.> phosphate undetectable Alk ~9 calcium 360 I do a water change every 2 weeks of ~5 - 6 gallons. (I use IO Reef Crystals) Average temp 78 degrees F Live stock: Fish - fed twice daily, alternating between Formula 1 & 2 flake, Mysis and frozen Brine Shrimp Plus 2 green Chromis 1 Kole tang <A 36 gallon tank is much too small for any tang.> 1 Maroon clown Softies - add DT's plankton every other day, feed the open brain small piece of silverside 2x a week, 2 medium mushroom rocks, an open brain, 1 medium polyp rock and a small crop of Pom Pom xenia several snails, 1 red leg hermit, 3 blue leg hermits <Crabs can become predators of coral and anemones.> and a crop of feather Caulerpa. Hope this wasn't too much....Generally speaking, I think the tank is in good shape. There seems to be an abundance of life in the sand and all my livestock appears to be in good health. Two weeks ago I purchased a medium to large rose BTA from my LFS. It appeared to be in very good shape, no damage to the mouth or base, good color and bubbled up real nice. I drip acclimated over a 4.5 hour period prior to introducing into the tank (I know I should have a Q tank, unfortunately I don't). Placed it in an area in the tank with several crevices for it to choose from. Over night it moved into one of those crevices and has been there since. It is securely attached and, for the most part, been behaving exactly as I have expected based on the research I have done. It has had an excellent feeding response and appetite. I've been feeding a Silverside every 2 to 3 days <A whole silverside is much too large. I don't recommend feeding portions bigger than the anemones mouth. When feeding too large of portions, the anemone will likely regurgitate several hours later, ending up with nothing to eat.> and the clown also takes it pieces of Mysis and Brine Shrimp mix on the days when I feed those. <Brine Shrimp is not adequate. There is little or no nutritional value in Brine shrimp unless it is newly hatched.> My maroon clown (~2" in size) moved in on the anemone within minutes of it being in the tank and been hosting it ever since. Now for my problem/question. In 2 weeks, the clown never gives this anemone any peace. <This is not unusual for a Maroon clownfish.> It is in it or around it all day long and even sleeps in the anemone at night. At times it appears to be pressing its body against the anemone's mouth, as if it were trying to suffocate it. Over the last 2 days the anemone seems to be looking very "wilted" and has not been expanding as in the past. Is it possible for the clown to be stressing out the anemone? <Sure is!> I know the maroon clown can be an aggressive fish, but I haven't seen or read anything that they could potentially harm their anemone. Could you please give me any ideas or suggestions you may have. <Your anemone needs to be at least three times (minimum) larger than this clownfish. Maroon clownfish can love their anemone to death. They need to be separated until the anemone is large enough to handle the Maroon.> Thanks, Mike <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: LTA moving around -02/20/08 Thank you again for your help, James. This site is truly amazing in the amount of info found here. I only whish I heard about it earlier. <Never too late.> I do have another question for you about my Tomato Clownfish. As I said before, the female of the pair likes to waft and dig with her tail all around the host LTA. It would be pretty interesting, if she did not bury corals without regard, cloud up my water, move my sand bed around (which is really bad for me because I have a DSB and the anemone has been moving so she basically ruins the filtration efforts ((denitrification)) of the sand bed), etc...etc...etc... <Normal behavior, not going to change.> She is about four inches long and in the past 7 months has constantly gotten darker and darker on her sides. <Normal.> She was bright red when I got her so I know she is not a Cinnamon(?) <spell checkers work wonders here.> Clownfish, anyways I believe she is at least a couple of years old. Last night, since the LTA moved again ( but now to a good spot for him) I have been constantly rearranging for the corals health. So she goes on her usual rampage of cleaning around the anemone, although she has done this for the whole time in my tank and still have yet to see some eggs, and throughout the night I had a rock tumble as a direct result. I lost my 2 big colonies of Acropora in the sand that I had to dig out, and a big rock fell not so much directly on the anemone but close enough to cause damage to my female who was in a slumber at the time I am guessing. I saw the tumble had happened 2 hours before the actinics come on so I turned them on, restacked (hopefully a little safer this time) and turned the light back off so everything could calm down. During this I noticed my female had some scratches on her side, slime coat issues, and would not leave the cleaner shrimp alone unless he was cleaning her. I also noticed that she will not go anywhere near her anemone the male is still in there and will not leave it no mater what). #1 Am I getting too worked up too soon about the female? will go back in time) <Nothing you mention sounds unusual, nature will take it's own course here.> #2 Should I be worried about the stress factor of this whole episode? #3 Is there any other way to get her to stop doing this other than taking her out? I have tried strategically placing rock rubble around the LTA so her tail will hit the rock instead of the sand and that seems to work for a while until she moves the rock. Obviously you cannot train a fish, so I hope this does not seem like a stupid question. Also I know I should not even have the LTA in the system to begin with. Maybe I am looking for an answer I will never get. Maybe I should be saying to myself, you created this problem, now you deal with it. <Bingo, lack of reading/learning before the purchase.> I just love all the corals that I have and would love to not have to remove anything, but it is pretty much down to this: either pull out the clown/anemone/select corals or shut up and deal with it? If it is not to much of a problem I was going to list all the corals and you could recommend which to remove so everything is not always competing chemically. Keep in mind I run a lot of activated carbon 100% of the time to help with the allelopathy. <spell checker?? Let's not go through this again, please. Forget which corals to move, your best choice is removing the LTA and the clownfish to a separate system, there you will have the benefit of enjoying both worlds.> large Goniopora, green flower pot, very big (Skelton about half the size of a beach ball and expands longest tentacles almost a foot) LTA 14 or so inches across Bali Green Slimmer <Never heard of a slimmer.> (size of a fist) Turbinaria Sp. about the size of a coffee cup. Acropora <&%$%^@> yellow with geen <what color is geen, close to bue?> tips (little smaller than a baseball) Pearl Bubble Coral 15 heads of Frogspawn F Brain Coral 4 heads of Branching Hammer Coral Around 100 heads (split in 2 colonies) of Metallic Green Trumpet Coral Hydnopora <A new family of Hydnophora?> (size of a hand) rock with 13 orange Rhodactis Mushrooms piece of Tonga with 20 green Mushrooms (rock also has two half dollar chunks of some kind of hitchhiking crustacious yellow/tan SPS. 1 beautiful purple/blue with green Clam (grows at an amazing rate) I also have a couple of hitchhiking corals that I have let go but are very small and they include a tiny chunk of toadstool , that I took out months ago, but where it grew its base to another rock that I had to carefully pry off, is now growing. There is also some kind of crusting soft coral (resembles glove polyps or something, but that is about 2'' by 6'' patch). also little tiny chunk of Pocillopora, and this little guy that the best I can come up with is a plate coral (the size of a dime). <Nope, do search/read here.> One more question: Along with those corals I have five fish that I will list so you don't have to revise. Pair of clowns, female is full grown, 1 ODS Goby, 1 Six-line Wrasse, and a Lavender Tang. I feed 1 cube Spirulina enhanced Brine Shrimp one day, Omega-3 Brine Shrimp the next, and Emerald Entree the following day on a cycle. All by San Francisco Bay Brand (Sally's). Mixed in with that I feed DT's Live Phyto every couple of days, and also alternate between (Sally's) Reef Plankton, and Cyclops. Does this sound like too much/not enough, or even the right type of food for my fish/corals? (The fish always eat everything in at least 2 min.) <Might want to mix in some New Spectrum dry food. Am trying a sample out now and the fish really like this stuff. Also consider adding Selcon vitamin supplement to the food every other day. Too many spelling/grammar errors, when to use to's and too's. Queries like this usually go on the back burner, get answered last. Please consider our volunteered time which is minimal, not an 8 to 5 job. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>

Yuma Mushroom Anemone and Clownfish, comp. 2/17/08 Hello Hi Jennifer, Mike I with you here> I have found a Yuma Mushroom Anemone and have fallen in love...I have a 30 gallon reef tank and am looking to get a Picasso clownfish. I have several feather dusters and also some button polyps. I have heard of Clownfish taking to different things in place of their usual hosts, so I am wondering if a Clownfish would take to the Mushroom Anemone? <Very likely, they are quite imaginative when choosing a home. Any of the animals you mention could be adopted> Also, is it too big for a 30 gallon? <Don't quite follow you here. If you mean the Yuma, then no. If you mean the Picasso, then no again. Do clarify if I have picked you up wrong> Thanks. keep up all of the fabulous information <Tis our pleasure! Thanks for the thanks!> Jennifer <Hope that helps you out, Jennifer. Mike I>

Clowns and anemone, sel... 2/17/08 <<Eddie, I am sorry to hear about the loss of your fish. You have sent the WWM Crew 4 emails in a very short space of time, so I have included them below in this single reply. As your last question combined all of your email queries, I shall focus on that one (immediately below). I should say that as a volunteer group, we sometimes don't get round to replying to queries as quick as we should like, so we ask that you are patient and we'll continue to do our best. While waiting for a reply, everyone may benefit from looking again for the answers to their queries in our library of works. In this case, you would likely have found all your answers. Mike I>> Dear WWM I have a small, one Inch percula clown. I would like to add another one but I do not know if I should get one bigger or the same size. <My preference would be smaller, or at that size (1 inch), similar in size, but do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshbrdfaqs.htm> also what is a fowler tank. <An abbreviation for Fish Only With Living Rock (FOWLR)> I have a 36 gallon with a happy long lived pink tip anemone. if I were to get rid of it what anemone would be small enough and would house percula clowns. thanks <Providing you research keeping this sort on animal first, you may get away with Entacmaea Quadricolor (BTA) in that size tank, but even so it may grow too large given ideal conditions Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and the linked FAQs before making any purchases> [[Dear WWM I have a small, one Inch percula clown. I would like to add another one but I do not know if I should get one bigger or the same size. also what is a fowler tank. I have a 36 gallon with a happy long lived pink tip anemone. if I were to get rid of it what anemone would be small enough and would house percula clowns. thanks Dear WWM I had two clownfish and the larger one died. what size clown should I get to have a mated pair. Also what is a fowler tank. I cant figure it out. thanks Dear WWM what type of anemone is not too large and will house two percula clowns in a 36 gallon. right now I have a pink tip anemone that has been alive for sooooooooooooo long but if I could get an anemone that could house my clowns I would get rid of the pink tip. thanks.]]

Re: Clowns and Reading 2/17/08 Dear WWM crew, I email you guys a lot. I had two Percula clowns that were tank raised. One died. Can I add another because the pet store said that two Perculas will kill each other. But I do not go to that store anymore because all the fish from there are either dead or not healthy. Please help. Also how long should I wait to add another? Thanks <Eddie, Mike I. has answered these questions from your four previous emails in a response you should have gotten earlier this morning. I will resend his response just in case you did not get it. Check your email or the daily FAQ's later on, and read the links Mike has provided, these questions are all answered within. Scott V.>

Possible Clown Hosts? -01/29/2008 Good Afternoon, First let me say thank you for all your help with this hobby, I have found this site to be an excellent one for information and have speedy replies on questions asked. Here is my Question: I am very interested in purchasing a BTA just to adore the relationship it has with clowns. I find it a beautiful sight to watch. However after reading more into it, I have noticed that Anemone's in Captivity don't have a long life span, 11 months if you're exceptionally lucky but most likely 3 months. <Hmm... depends on the anemone, how you care for them, etc.--lots of factors here. True, they are not easy to keep, but they are not so destined to die as are some other common marine inverts sold to aquarists. I know of people who have kept anemones quite well for years, decades even. So it is possible.> I know on this site you don't go agree with anemone purchase in captivity and after reading your info I understand and agree. <Again, not necessarily. It depends on the anemone and the system it's intended for. Many people have lasting success with bubble tip anemones for example (so long as they are well placed and cared for).> Since I do want to have a place for my Clown to host is there anything else you could suggest to have this same effect? Is it possible for a clown to host in a Torch Coral or any other Coral? <Yes, but it's not usually good for the coral.> Would this damage the coral? <Most likely, in some way/to some extent or another, yes.> I would appreciate any information you can give in hopes to have this type of symbiotic relationship with out having to take a perfectly happy anemone from its home. <If you're looking for a Cnidarian to host clowns, I would suggest a bubble tip anemone that has been propagated in captivity. Some of these anemones split quite frequently in captive systems. Your best bet might be to get one of these captive "born" anemones.> I presently bought a clown fish and asked for them to keep it in there anemone tank so he will be use to the relationship of hosting. <Do extensively research bubble tip anemone care. Here's a place to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm> Please Help Thank you, Trying to save the wild anemone: Ashley <De nada, Sara M.>

Possible Clownfish Host, Alternative to Anemones -- 1/26/08 Good Afternoon, <Hello Ashley, Brenda here!> First let me say thank you for all your help with this hobby, I have found this site to be an excellent one for information and have speedy replies on questions asked. <Thank you! Glad you find it helpful.> Here is my Question: I am very interested in purchasing a BTA just to adore the relationship it has with clowns. I find it a beautiful sight to watch. <Yes, it is a beautiful thing to watch.> However after reading more into it I have noticed that Anemone's in Captivity don't have a long life span, 11 months if you are exceptionally lucky but most likely 3 months. <Anemones are successfully being kept alive for many years in captivity. It is really not an issue of luck. If you have a healthy anemone, proper equipment and environment you should have no issues keeping an anemone alive and healthy for many years. A lot of research and planning will help you a lot.> I know on this site you don't agree with Anemone purchase in captivity and after reading your info I understand and agree. Since I do want to have a place for my Clown to host is there anything else you could suggest to have this same effect? Is it possible for a clown to host in a Torch Coral or any other Coral? <Yes, anemones can host a Torch Coral, mushroom coral, leather coral, and many more.> Would this damage the coral? <No, but there is no guarantee that the clownfish will host even an anemone in captivity.> I would appreciate any information you can give in hopes to have this type of symbiotic relationship with out having to take a perfectly happy anemone from its home. <How long has your tank been set up? What equipment do you have on it? How big is your tank?> I presently bought a clown fish and asked for them to keep it in there anemone tank so he will be use to the relationship of hosting. <What species is the clownfish?> Please Help. Thank you, Trying to save the wild anemone: Ashley <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: ocellaris or percula? 01/24/2008 UPDATE of clown hosting in the anemone <<Thank you for the update, the clown looks very happy in the new home. Really glad its hosted so quickly>> Pic related! <<A Nixon>> <<Thanks for the update and follow-up. A Nixon>> >
Re: ocellaris or percula? 01/21/2008 > Thanks heaps for confirming that for me :) > <<no problem at all, its what were here for Oscar>> > When a clown does take to an anemone as its host, will I see some interaction for a few days leading up to it, or will the clown just decide to swim in? The anticipation is killing me (even though it may not happen haha). > <<They usually do spend a little time swimming through the anemone, getting used to it before hopping on board and hosting it. Its great to watch them in the initial period where they are effectively "testing the water". Enjoy>> > Thanks again. > <<Thanks for the follow up. A Nixon>>

Condylactis Anemones and Clownfish -- 12/27/07 Hi. <<Hello>> Got a Condy anemone from the fish store. <<Okay>> This is my first. <> I've heard many different opinions on this....are clowns and condos compatible? <<Sometimes'¦sometimes not'¦ Though I must admit to hearing more 'success stories' than not re this association these days>> I have maroon clown. <> Will either be a danger to the other? <<Is always a possibility'¦but may very well be fine (How's that for straddling the fence?). Truth is, it's an unnatural association'¦but I 'have' heard of it working>> Do hermit crabs eat anemones? <<The smaller commonly available and so-called 'reef-safe' species shouldn't be a problem>> Also, I'd like to keep species from the same ocean, as you say. <<Ah well, a commendable pursuit'¦but you have already failed this by mixing an anemone endemic to the tropical Western Atlantic Ocean with a clown fish (clownfish are not found in the Atlantic at all)>> Any sites that list fish/inverts by origin? <<Indeed there are'¦ An excellent resource is fishbase.org for your finned finds, and some purposeful hunting on Coral Search at http://www2.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/coralsearch.php will help with corals... Other organisms of interest can likely be tracked down as to ocean/region/origin with some time and effort spent making keyword searches on the NET in general>> Thanks! <<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Re: Was Tang M I A/ Mixed Clowns, now: top-off water systems, mixing clowns/anemones in a large system Hi Bob <Ian> Thought I would let you know that it appears as if the MIA Yellow Tang is being allowed back into the community although he is still being chased on occasion. It has taken a month but it looks like things will get back to normal. Two questions if I may. I store my RO in a 200 litre drum about 3 metres above the sump. Would it be possible to link in a small 5mm diameter tube at the base of the drum and feed directly into the sump with the end of the pipe at the max level I want. <Yes> As the water evaporates and the level drops it would allow the RO feed to top up. I would imagine the small diameter would not exert enough pressure to simply empty the drum. Somehow I do not think this will work... sounds too simple, what do you think? <Mmm, there are devices... some relying on floats, others that are mechanical in other ways (e.g. drip infusion bottles in medical applications), even tools that measure Spg et al. that would be of use here. Am sure you don't want to suffer having all the water feed into the sump, overflow onto your floor... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/h20makeupfaqs.htm> I have a rather large Clarkii Clown, at least 80mm plus a smaller Cinnamon Clown of about half that size. They seem to get on fine as long as the Cinnamon does not get close to the Clarkii's Carpet anemone. I would like to introduce a few other species of Clown, namely the true Percula and the Tomato clown. I have managed to find one of each so far and am looking for another two and then possibly some other interesting specimen. I am housing them together in the refugium and I want to introduce a bubble anemone for all of them. I assume they will all get on together? <Maybe... there are a number of possible outcomes here... with the dominant Clown (the Clark's) "hogging" all host anemones... possibly killing the BTA... it floating about causing trouble... Do take care to assure the new anemone is VERY well established (perhaps a plastic "cage" arrangement over it for a month or so) before exposing it here in your main system> After a month or two I plan to introduce them all into the main display tank and place them as far away from the Clarkii as possible. The Clarkii is at the one end of a 2.5 metre tank which has about 2500 litres of water. I was also thinking of introducing them inside a largish see through plastic box for a week or two to get everyone accustomed to them. <Worthwhile> I really do not want to go to all this trouble and expense( The true Percula costs the equivalent of $100 and it is only about 15mm long!) <Wow!> to simply have the Clarkii make a meal out of them. Sorry to drag this out but basically do you think this will work or should I simply keep them in the "specimen" tank? <Mmm, if it were me, mine, I'd go the latter route... better to have just the carpet and one dominant clown (plus possibly a small, male mate...) in the large system> many thanks Ian <As many welcomes. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/2/07 Dear Crew, <Hello Andy, Brenda here> It's been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question about the health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so, during which time its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It is paired up with a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a good relationship. I feed it about once per week with (I rotate) Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and chopped oyster, all soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food and remains open and pointed upwards most of the time. I have a 110g display (30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm actinics) that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to swap out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs. The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since day 1, it has been in this same location, with minor realignments from time to time. I have previously posted a question to WWM about its position at the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as I was concerned that my lighting might not be enough for it, but the response was to leave things alone if the BTA was happy and doing well. <Yes, I remember. If I'm not mistaken, both James and myself answered your questions. This fixture does not have individual reflectors correct?> Over the last 7-10 days, however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a little wilted (both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer positioned up/towards the light. <How old are the bulbs?> In fact, it appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same ledge of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take the food or close up around itself as usual. <This is not a good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?> As you know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA is not itself. <Yes> Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at 77-78*, pH is 8.3, Alk is 3.5 mEq/L, and salinity is 1.0245 (I have tried to get it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable there due to top-off, salt creep, etc.). <Be careful with salt creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend 1.026 for anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get to 1.026.> I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto) and a Coral Life Super Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump (change every 4 weeks). I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two Cleaner Shrimps, about 22 various types of Shrooms, <Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a chemical war going on here. Changing your carbon more frequently may help.> 2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I do a 10% water change each week. Water is RO/DI. <Is it time to change the filters?> Circulation is about 10x per hour. I am very careful about not introducing any foreign substances (cleaners, etc.). <Good!> Do BTAs go through these phases, or should I be worried? <This is not a phase, something is wrong here.> I don't know what I could be doing wrong or not doing. <It may be a combination of things. I suspect the mushrooms contributing largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI filters may also be contributing. However, I would expect the anemone to move higher up if it was not getting enough light.> Thanks for any insight you may have. Andy <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/2/07 Thanks for the response, Brenda. <You're welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and will answer both here.> I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA. Unfortunately, it's positioned itself under a ledge, oriented perpendicular to the front of the tank and out of light, so the pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a picture of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the image quality is what it is . . . <Hard to tell. The pictures are much too dark. The anemone is much too small for a Maroon Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones. It is recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the clownfish. The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months with your feeding schedule. It is not getting the proper nutrition. Is the clownfish or the shrimp stealing its food?> I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so that is where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it some fresh clam. It captured the clam and started to swirl its tentacles, but I'm pretty sure it never ate the food (it didn't form a bulb around itself as usual). <I suggest trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the same foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many common foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition of the anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of silversides daily. Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized portion every 2 to 3 days for a month or two.> Thanks again for your help. <You're welcome!> Shoot! I forgot to answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5 months old, and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think the filters are working fine. My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or so--they do not have separate reflectors. <Is it time to clean the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?> All of my mushrooms are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the middle of my tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the BTA. <They do not have to be next to each other to have chemical warfare.> I will start swapping out the carbon more often. I realize that things in the marine world happen slowly (sometimes). The BTA and the Shrooms have lived together for 5 or 6 months. <Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things going bad slowly. With anemones, it can take months, or even a few years before it starts showing ill signs. Brenda>

Mis-matched

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