|
| |
|
FAQs on Flasher Wrasses, Genus Paracheilinus Compatibility
Related Articles: Flasher Wrasses,
Related FAQs: Flasher Wrasses,
& FAQs on: Flasher Wrasse Identification,
Flasher Wrasse Behavior,
Flasher Wrasse Selection, Flasher Wrasse Systems,
Flasher Wrasse Feeding,
Flasher Wrasse Disease, Flasher Wrasse
Reproduction, & Wrasses, Wrasse
Selection, Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse
Feeding, Wrasse Diseases,
Habitat plays a huge role...
|

|
McCosker's Flasher Wrasse with Cerith and
Nassarius snails. - 07/19/08
Hello Crew!
Let me start by saying thank you for the excellent job you do! Now for my
question. I want to know if the McCosker's Flasher wrasse and Carpenter Wrasse
will be compatible with my clean up crew? I have read on several online
retailers web sites that this fish is "Reef safe" and will not harm inverts. Is
this true?
<Almost always the case, yes. Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus species by and
large feed on "off the bottom" zooplankters>
I really enjoy the work that my Nassarius, Cerith and Nerite snails do. They are
excellent little scavengers and I don't want to add anything to the system that
is going to hunt them down and kill them. The system is a 105 Gallon Half
hexagon with a 35 Gallon sump/refugium with Chaeto and Macro growing in the
refugium. 4-5" DSB in display tank and refugium, ETSS Reef Devil Skimmer, 1/4 hp
Chiller, Mag 18 Return pump with 3x 1/2" water outlets, 4x65watt PC's and
approximately 65 Lbs of Live rock. The system is cycled and about 2 months old.
I purchased a kit of Copepods and amphipods along with only snails for the clean
up crew. My goal is to research all the fish prior to purchasing them so that
everyone gets along in a nice little community. Are there any Gobies or blennies
that you might also recommend that will not feed on my clean up crew.
<Many... see WWM re...>
Thank You so Much! Mario from Rancho Cucamonga, Ca.
<Welcome, from BobF in very VOGy Kailua Kona>
|
Cirrhilabrus/Paracheilinus
compatibility/harem size 2/16/08
Good morning WWM Crew,
<RA>
Well, I've been thinking a lot about what exactly I'm going put in my 86g (48"L
x 16"W x 26"T). I've been thinking about getting a harem of the smaller (3")
wrasses of either of the above genera.
First off, would these fish be compatible with a pair of maroon clowns and a
BTA?
<Mmm, possibly... in a system of this size, shape... there's a very real poss.
that a Premnas would kill other fishes in time>
My tank is tall, and the top of the live rock barely extends past the bottom
half of the tank, giving plenty of open room for the wrasse.
Second, how large are harems in the wild generally?
<Of the above genera, species? Usually dozens of individuals... some lower
"caste" males perhaps only with a few females per>
I'm trying to form a biotope, so I'm avoiding all fish that only school/group in
very large numbers. How many wrasse could I keep in my tank?
<Not many... perhaps a handful here>
Well, thanks for reading this. Your crew has been very helpful with me and my
countless hypothetical questions.
TIA,
Random Aquarist
<Welcome. Less random BobF>
Re: Cirrhilabrus/Paracheilinus
compatibility/harem size 2/17/08
So, I'm guessing it would be best to not mix maroons with wrasse.
<We are in agreement>
However, I still like the idea of mixing clowns and wrasse. What
BTA-hosting clowns would be compatible with a harem of wrasse?
<Smaller, easier-going species... particularly tank-bred/reared...
Ocellaris, true Perculas... at the top of my choice list. Bob Fenner>
R6: Adding Another Wrasse To My Tank (Not
Going to Be Easy) – 02/17/08
Lights are back on and the Sixline is after the Solar again, seems like he’s
on a mission.
<<Mmm, yes…can be relentless>>
Even when the Solar Wrasse finds a hiding place the Sixline relentlessly
searches for it. When he finds it he chases around the tank at full speed until
a new hiding spot is found... this cycle has repeated itself several times but
so far no one seems hurt. Will this settle down in time and if so what signs
should I look for?
<<Less chasing about>>
If not, how long do I wait to try and remove one of the two, which would be
decided by which one I can actually catch.
<<Sometimes these introductions just don’t work out… If the Solar wrasse does
not/can not feed, if any physical trauma occurs beyond a nipped fin, or if the
“incessant” chasing does not stop in a couple days…I would remove one of these
fishes. EricR>>
R7: Adding Another Wrasse To My Tank (Not Going to Be Easy) – 02/18/08
Solar is hiding for the last 8 hours or so under some rock and the Sixline
seems a little less interested in finding it then before.
<<Mmm…maybe a glimmer of hope>>
I also re-aquascaped part of the tank to hopefully disorient the Sixline a bit
and enforce a truce while they all laid low.
<<A good move>>
An hour or so after I finished, the Sixline did find the Solar Wrasse in its
hiding spot but just swam up to its face and stared it down for a while. This
time Solar didn't make a run for it but instead just backed in deeper after the
Sixline left. Hope this is a good sign since I really like both fish. All that
being said, how long should I wait to see if the Solar comes out and feeds
before getting concerned?
<<Hard to say, Danny… If the fish was introduced shortly after arrival at the
LFS then it likely hasn’t fed much for days already, if at all, and is in a
weakened state from the stresses of capture and transport and will need to feed
soon in my opinion (within the next couple days). If this fish was quarantined
and feeding/fed well before introduction then it can go a bit longer. EricR>> |
Flasher Wrasse - 10/17/06
Hi Bob (or crew),
<Hey Art, MacL here with you tonight. Bob managed to miss the earth quake and go
diving the lucky man.>
I have a 55 gallon reef tank with one Psychedelic Mandarin, one Purple Firefish,
two Skunk Cleaner Shrimp and one Fire Shrimp currently residing. I have had a
2.5" male Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse in my 30 gallon quarantine tank for two
weeks now. I would like to have more Flasher Wrasses-- I know I'm supposed to
add two females, and get them in the display before I add the male-- BUT I
really want to get a male Blue Flasher Wrasse instead (P. cyaneus). I have two
mesh dividers for the quarantine tank, so I would divide it in half, quarantine
the Blue Flasher on one side, leave the Carpenter's on the other, so they could
see each other, but not have access to one another (the divider is flush with
the glass lid, so there would be no jumping over for a smack-down). I would add
these two to the display tank at the same time.
<You know I've had good luck mixing flasher wrasses in some tanks and bad luck
mixing in others. Mostly good luck but just from experience, when I added one
male other type wrasse and two female wrasses, I've ended up with one of the
females changing to a male. In my 200 plus gallon tank it didn't matter they had
plenty of space to get away from each other. So other than a bit of sparing it
worked out fine. In my smaller tanks, it didn't work quite so well.>
Is this a recipe for disaster, or is a 55 gallon w/lots of live rock and coral
big enough for the two of them to coexist peacefully, without one fish relegated
to standing in the corner? I see tanks where people keep many fairy/flasher
wrasses, but of course, there could be so many the aggression is diffused. What
are my chances of success with just two males, and would this situation likely
intensify color in both, and increase flashing behavior or force one of them to
repress color? As always, thanks for your time and expert advice-- I have really
learned a lot from this site!
<Once again I can only speak from experience. Two males will show for each
other but add a female and they show off. Reality is that I'd recommend not
having other fish and go for more flashers, they make amazing tank creatures.
Definitely the way you are setting up is the way to go. Lots of live rock that
they can swim in and out of. Lots of hidey places. Good luck Art and best
wishes. >
Art
Flasher Wrasses and Anthiines - 10/03/06
Would Blue Flasher or Carpenter Flashers make suitable tank mates for my
Bicolor Anthias?
<<I think they would, yes>>
Tank is 150 G. I'd like to add 1 male and 2 females.
<<Should be fine, though you may want to consider adding an additional female (1
male to 3 females) to spread the interspecific aggression a bit more thinly>>
Thanks,
Ken Kristofick
<<Quite welcome. Eric Russell>>
Need some sanity for my wrasses 1/4/07
Hi-
<Hello Nathan, JustinN with you today.>
I have a 50gal reef tank.
<Ok>
Besides a day-night pH fluctuation that bothers me, I have no issues. I have a
blue carpet that minds it's business, more than several SPS's, some polyps, 4
shrimp, a host of hermits, a starfish that I forget the name of the Ophiothrix
type, 400 Watt 15k augmented with 64 actinic, moon, skimmer, chiller, on and on
and on :) I have zero issues in my tank. EXCEPT! Flasher wrasses will not stay
alive in my tank. For fish I have a Fridmani Pseudochromis, one Ocellaris clown,
an exquisite wrasse and a unknown wrasse of the same genus.
<You are very close to, if not already, full on bio-load here.>
The Exquisite is a male. I have read that Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus can
coexist easily.
<Certainly, in a large enough setting>
These 2 wrasses are such characters and will even let me pet their noses (I know
it isn't a nose!) when I feed them. The are very playful and well established. I
have tried to put in my tank 2 smaller Paracheilinus wrasses (cyanus and
carpenteri) and both died the same way: they looked happy and established, were
eating, then the next day they are curled up with labored breathing in the
corner only to die no matter what I do (I put them in isolation and it is too
late). Honestly, I see them looking ok, eating one minute, then near death 1
hours later.
<I would think that both wrasse and the Pseudochromis are all culprits here.>
My only guess is that the combination of Paracheilinus being a bit tender and
wimpy combined with the territoriality of my Pseudochromis (it will not allow
the flashers near the rock pile during the light hours) are driving these
beautiful wrasses out of their mind and they die. But what is odd is that the
Pseudochromis never bothers the Cirrhilabrus.
<You may just not notice it, or it may be that they're already established.
However, I agree that the Pseudochromis is likely the lead culprit, though I
would not exonerate the wrasse yet!>
I just need someone to tell me my supposition is plausible, or what I might do
to remedy it, because I will not let another fish die until I fix the problem
(and fixing it maybe giving up on owning a Paracheilinus). While Paracheilinus
are beautiful so it my solid purple Pseudochromis. Could this all be due to the
Pseudochromis? If you think so, I might consider trapping him and trading him
to another tank.
<I would consider your tank pretty close to full as it is, and if its been
successful until now, I would continue with your current stocking list. If you
cannot upgrade to a larger settings, I would pass on another wrasse. I would
only feel comfortable adding some sort of small fish, such as a small goby or
Ecsenius sp. blenny into your current arrangement, in fear of tipping the
bio-load too far.>
Thank you,
Nathan Tableman
<No problem, Nathan. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
Mixing flasher wrasse males 2/11/07
Hello to the WWM Crew,
<Hi.>
Against conventional wisdom, I would like to mix male Flasher Wrasses in my
55 gal.
<Well...I think from your disclaimer in the beginning of the sentence you
know what my opinion is, especially in his size tank.>
reef tank, currently inhabited by a 2" Purple Firefish, a 1.75" Green
Mandarin and a 1.75"
<Wrasses....being the efficient microfauna "hunters" that they are should
not be laced with dragonets.>
Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse. I would like to add a Blue Flasher male and a
McCosker's or Filamented Flasher male, depending on what is available. I
will put the two new Flashers in my 30 gal. quarantine, with two egg crate
dividers (three 10-gallon compartments) layered with plastic mesh gutter
guard to prevent injuries and also to prevent small fish from slipping
through. The Carpenter's will be easy to trap because of his appetite and
curiosity, so I will remove him from the display and add him to one of the
three compartments of the QT. With all three Flasher males in the bare
(except for PVC pipes) quarantine tank , I plan to remove the dividers after
they have grown accustomed to each other and observe what happens before
adding them simultaneously to the display. I realize that, even if they get
along, the dynamics could all change over time. What are the odds that I can
keep three Flasher males peacefully in my 55 gallon (without any of them
reverting to females)?
<Not likely an alpha will become dominate....is a risk.>
I want to see more flashing behavior, and I don't want to add females.
Adding more than two Flasher males (to diffuse aggression) is not an option,
as the tank will also have two 1" Yellow Assessors and a 1" Candy
Basslet. It would be 8 fishes total, but all small . Will this mix work?
<See my above comments.>
As always, thank you for your advice.
<Anytime.>
Art
<Adam J.>
Re: Flasher Wrasse Addition....more stocking questions
2/12/07
Hi Adam,
<Welcome back Art!>
Thanks for answering my question so quickly.
<We try our best to get back within a day or so.>
Even though I target feed the Mandarin and he eats frozen food like a pig,
your point is well taken--
<True, but I am pleased to hear he accepts supplements to his natural eating
habits, I'm sure you know this is an exception...a good one.>
The Carpenter's Flasher will often snatch food away when I'm target feeding
the Mandarin, even though I feed the wrasse at the same time.
<They are built for much more agile/quicker swimming than the dragonet.>
It seems like I should abandon the Flasher Wrasses altogether and get
a fish that with eating habits similar to the other tank
inhabitants (again, Purple Firefish, 2 Yellow Assessors, Candy Basslet,
Green Mandarin) so there won't be a wrasse to out compete for food of any
type.
<Well if you already have an established wrasse the is not negatively
harming the well-being of his tankmates you may be okay to leave well-enough
alone...I would however refrain from adding an additional wrasse.>
I am thinking about a small (1.5" body length)
Sunburst/Fathead Anthias, because it can be kept singly, doesn't require as
much space as other Anthias (my tank is 55 gallons) and has similar eating
habits, I think. Do you think this fish would work with the rest of my
species list?
<Could...yes, the problem with this animal is that they don't ship well and
it may be difficult to secure a healthy specimen to begin with but if you
can....may be worth your while.>
I know the Anthias requires multiple feedings, but how resistant is the
Sunburst to parasites (ich and velvet mainly)?
<No more susceptible than the animals you already have.....the issue with
this animal is it's diet, they can be finicky at times.>
Thanks again for your help,
<Of course.>
Art
<AJ.>
Wrasse compatibility - 02/15/07
Ahoy WWM,
<Ryan... do you know Dave of your last name...?>
I have a question about wrasse compatibility. From what I've read
I think this sounds alright, just want a professional opinion before I take
the plunge. I currently operate a 60 gallon hex w 90 lbs of LR and I am in
the final stages of fish stocking. Right now there is a Purple Firefish, a
Yasha Hase , and 2 Neon Gobies.
I was and still am planning on adding 3 carpenters/ filamented flasher
wrasses, (whichever is the easier to acquire as they are both gorgeous
fish). My first question is do you think I will be ok with just 2 females?
<Mmm, yes>
Now here's the kicker I was at my big box LFS tonight and what to my
surprise I chance across an exquisite fairy wrasse for 30$. Needless to say
it is in my Fuge and dining on pods 3 hours later (I'm holding off for a
possible simultaneous intro). Do you guys see any problems with the flashers
and the Filamentosus?
<Yes... too likely territorial issues in a small/sixty gallon volume>
Or with any of the other fish for that matter. I'm inclined to think I'm
alright but I had to be sure.
<Is a possibility with your other similarly shaped fishes, yes>
Any help would be undeserved and greatly appreciated
Ryan W
<Mmm... I'd have another tank, alternate, ready. Bob Fenner>
Re: wrasse compatibility 2/16/07
Bob-
To answer your question no I don't know a Dave Wrobel.
<Ahh! He worked at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, and penned some nice articles
and a book on coldwater marine keeping years back>
We are rather common here in the Midwest.
Hey thanks a lot for the work you and your crew do. Your site has been a
huge reason for my success.
Best wishes Ryan Wrobel.
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words. Bob Fenner>
|
Re: Stocking Suggestions for the 34g Red Sea
Max... Flasher wrasse sys. – 07/26/07
Affect the wrasse psychologically? Please elaborate if possible. Thank you.
<The Labrids of this (and most genera) genus are accustomed to a quite large lek
territory... where they "dance", display... and can get away from potential
predators... RMF>
|
Another question on mixing
Flasher wrasses 8/29/07
Dear Crew,
<Eric>
I had previously inquired about mixing six-line and canary wrasses in my
soon-to-be-setup 40-gallon breeder aquarium and now have another, different
question for the great WWM Crew. The six-line wrasse had a tragic accident, so
the previous question is no longer an issue. However, I'm putting together a
stocking list for this tank and would like to include two different flasher
wrasses: a blue flasher fairy wrasse and a McCosker's wrasse. Would these two be
compatible companions in this tank?
<Mmm, no... not enough room here>
Other possible future inhabitants include a tail spot blenny, a Firefish, and an
Ocellaris clown (possibly a second, sometime down the road), with a limit of
maybe 5 fish, unless you think 6 might be possible. I have a feeling it would be
a bit crowded, though.
<Will be... the Firefish would likely perish from stress here>
So, what say you, O' Mighty Crew? Can I mix these two flashers? If so, will they
cohabitate well with the others I have chosen?
Thanks in advance for your excellent advice!
Best regards,
Eric
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Another question on
mixing wrasses 8/30/07
Bob,
<Eric>
Thank you for your reply! It's a bit disappointing to find out that I can't keep
both wrasses, since they're both gorgeous fish. But I understand the lack of
room to give them their territories. If I were to leave out the Firefish and one
of the flasher wrasses, would the remaining 3 fish (the clownfish, wrasse, and
blenny) get along? And what other fish would you recommend to fill in the tank?
I would like a total of at least 4, if possible, without overcrowding.
Thanks again!
Eric
<Please my friend... read re these mixes on the Compatibility, Systems...
subFAQs per group. BobF>
|
Wrasses for my 58??
Bring on The Wrasses! (Stocking Question) - 11/20/07
Hello WWM crew
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
First, kudos to you for all the wonderful information and help you give out on a
daily basis.
<Well, thank you kindly! Proud to have been associated with this group for over
5 years. We have amazing people whose love for this hobby and aquatic life is
inspiring!>
I have a 58 RR that is LPS dominated, mainly with Acans/Micros.
<Ahh- you're one of THOSE people! Just kidding- they are beautiful corals! I
just laugh because some of the hype that's been attached to them of late.>
I currently have 1 Green Banded Goby, 1 Yellow Neon Goby, 1 Red Head Goby 1
small Royal Gramma and 2 Wheeler's Watchman Gobies.
<Wow! A great assemblage of some of my favorite little fishes! Sounds sweet!>
I would really like to add a wrasse to the tank. I was thinking about 2-3
Carpenter's Flashers or McCosker's in the same numbers. Would this work
with my current fish list?
<I believe that this could work fine. The smaller Fairy and Flasher wrasses will
make fine tankmates for the fishes that you have, and their colors will be
stunning, complimenting your coral collection!>
If need be I have another home for the Royal Gramma.
<This fish would be my only concern. There is a slight possibility that the
Gramma will not be as friendly as we'd like. However, the Gramma generally
occupies a different strata within the water column of the system than the
wrasses do, and may not be an issue. Observe carefully and intervene if needed.>
Would this work?? If not could I add one wrasse instead of 2-3?
<I think that these wrasses are more comfortable, and display better in small
groups. I would not go solo.>
Everything I am reading sounds like they are happier and have a better survival
rate if housed in small groups.
<Cue "Twilight Zone" theme- you read my mind!>
Thanks in advance for any help/direction you might be able to give me
Patrick
<You sound like you're on the right track! I'd love to see pics of this tank
when everyone is settled in! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
| |
|