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Flasher wrasses - pair/trio or single?
11/23/18 Flasher Wrasse Question 11/10/18 Flasher and Fairy Wrasses 11/17/17 exquisite wrasse ailment/behavior 2/22/17 Wrasses for my 58?? Bring on The Wrasses! (Stocking Question) - 11/20/07 Hello WWM crew <Hi there! Scott F. here today!> First, kudos to you for all the wonderful information and help you give out on a daily basis. <Well, thank you kindly! Proud to have been associated with this group for over 5 years. We have amazing people whose love for this hobby and aquatic life is inspiring!> I have a 58 RR that is LPS dominated, mainly with Acans/Micros. <Ahh- you're one of THOSE people! Just kidding- they are beautiful corals! I just laugh because some of the hype that's been attached to them of late.> I currently have 1 Green Banded Goby, 1 Yellow Neon Goby, 1 Red Head Goby 1 small Royal Gramma and 2 Wheeler's Watchman Gobies. <Wow! A great assemblage of some of my favorite little fishes! Sounds sweet!> I would really like to add a wrasse to the tank. I was thinking about 2-3 Carpenter's Flashers or McCosker's in the same numbers. Would this work with my current fish list? <I believe that this could work fine. The smaller Fairy and Flasher wrasses will make fine tankmates for the fishes that you have, and their colors will be stunning, complimenting your coral collection!> If need be I have another home for the Royal Gramma. <This fish would be my only concern. There is a slight possibility that the Gramma will not be as friendly as we'd like. However, the Gramma generally occupies a different strata within the water column of the system than the wrasses do, and may not be an issue. Observe carefully and intervene if needed.> Would this work?? If not could I add one wrasse instead of 2-3? <I think that these wrasses are more comfortable, and display better in small groups. I would not go solo.> Everything I am reading sounds like they are happier and have a better survival rate if housed in small groups. <Cue "Twilight Zone" theme- you read my mind!> Thanks in advance for any help/direction you might be able to give me Patrick <You sound like you're on the right track! I'd love to see pics of this tank when everyone is settled in! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Re: Stocking Suggestions for the 34g Red Sea Max... Flasher wrasse sys. – 07/26/07 Affect the wrasse psychologically? Please elaborate if possible. Thank you. <The Labrids of this (and most genera) genus are accustomed to a quite large lek territory... where they "dance", display... and can get away from potential predators... RMF>
Mixing flasher wrasse males 2/11/07 Hello to the WWM Crew, <Hi.> Against conventional wisdom, I would like to mix male Flasher Wrasses in my 55 gal. <Well...I think from your disclaimer in the beginning of the sentence you know what my opinion is, especially in his size tank.> reef tank, currently inhabited by a 2" Purple Firefish, a 1.75" Green Mandarin and a 1.75" <Wrasses....being the efficient microfauna "hunters" that they are should not be laced with dragonets.> Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse. I would like to add a Blue Flasher male and a McCosker's or Filamented Flasher male, depending on what is available. I will put the two new Flashers in my 30 gal. quarantine, with two egg crate dividers (three 10-gallon compartments) layered with plastic mesh gutter guard to prevent injuries and also to prevent small fish from slipping through. The Carpenter's will be easy to trap because of his appetite and curiosity, so I will remove him from the display and add him to one of the three compartments of the QT. With all three Flasher males in the bare (except for PVC pipes) quarantine tank , I plan to remove the dividers after they have grown accustomed to each other and observe what happens before adding them simultaneously to the display. I realize that, even if they get along, the dynamics could all change over time. What are the odds that I can keep three Flasher males peacefully in my 55 gallon (without any of them reverting to females)? <Not likely an alpha will become dominate....is a risk.> I want to see more flashing behavior, and I don't want to add females. Adding more than two Flasher males (to diffuse aggression) is not an option, as the tank will also have two 1" Yellow Assessors and a 1" Candy Basslet. It would be 8 fishes total, but all small . Will this mix work? <See my above comments.> As always, thank you for your advice. <Anytime.> Art <Adam J.> Re: Flasher Wrasse
Addition....more stocking questions 2/12/07 Hi Adam,
<Welcome back Art!> Thanks for answering my question so quickly.
<We try our best to get back within a day or so.> Even though I
target feed the Mandarin and he eats frozen food like a pig, your point
is well taken-- <True, but I am pleased to hear he accepts
supplements to his natural eating habits, I'm sure you know this is
an exception...a good one.> The Carpenter's Flasher will often
snatch food away when I'm target feeding the Mandarin, even though
I feed the wrasse at the same time. <They are built for
much more agile/quicker swimming than the dragonet.> It seems like I
should abandon the Flasher Wrasses altogether and get a fish
that with eating habits similar to the other tank
inhabitants (again, Purple Firefish, 2 Yellow Assessors,
Candy Basslet, Green Mandarin) so there won't be a wrasse to out
compete for food of any type. <Well if you already have an
established wrasse the is not negatively harming the well-being of his
tankmates you may be okay to leave well-enough alone...I would however
refrain from adding an additional wrasse.> I am thinking about a
small (1.5" body length) Sunburst/Fathead Anthias, because it can
be kept singly, doesn't require as much space as other Anthias (my
tank is 55 gallons) and has similar eating habits, I think. Do you
think this fish would work with the rest of my species list?
<Could...yes, the problem with this animal is that they don't
ship well and it may be difficult to secure a healthy specimen to begin
with but if you can....may be worth your while.> I know the Anthias
requires multiple feedings, but how resistant is the Sunburst to
parasites (ich and velvet mainly)? <No more susceptible than the
animals you already have.....the issue with this animal is it's
diet, they can be finicky at times.> Thanks again for your help,
<Of course.>
Need some sanity for my wrasses 1/4/07 Hi- <Hello Nathan, JustinN with you today.> I have a 50gal reef tank. <Ok> Besides a day-night pH fluctuation that bothers me, I have no issues. I have a blue carpet that minds it's business, more than several SPS's, some polyps, 4 shrimp, a host of hermits, a starfish that I forget the name of the Ophiothrix type, 400 Watt 15k augmented with 64 actinic, moon, skimmer, chiller, on and on and on :) I have zero issues in my tank. EXCEPT! Flasher wrasses will not stay alive in my tank. For fish I have a Fridmani Pseudochromis, one Ocellaris clown, an exquisite wrasse and a unknown wrasse of the same genus. <You are very close to, if not already, full on bio-load here.> The Exquisite is a male. I have read that Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus can coexist easily. <Certainly, in a large enough setting> These 2 wrasses are such characters and will even let me pet their noses (I know it isn't a nose!) when I feed them. The are very playful and well established. I have tried to put in my tank 2 smaller Paracheilinus wrasses (cyanus and carpenteri) and both died the same way: they looked happy and established, were eating, then the next day they are curled up with labored breathing in the corner only to die no matter what I do (I put them in isolation and it is too late). Honestly, I see them looking ok, eating one minute, then near death 1 hours later. <I would think that both wrasse and the Pseudochromis are all culprits here.> My only guess is that the combination of Paracheilinus being a bit tender and wimpy combined with the territoriality of my Pseudochromis (it will not allow the flashers near the rock pile during the light hours) are driving these beautiful wrasses out of their mind and they die. But what is odd is that the Pseudochromis never bothers the Cirrhilabrus. <You may just not notice it, or it may be that they're already established. However, I agree that the Pseudochromis is likely the lead culprit, though I would not exonerate the wrasse yet!> I just need someone to tell me my supposition is plausible, or what I might do to remedy it, because I will not let another fish die until I fix the problem (and fixing it maybe giving up on owning a Paracheilinus). While Paracheilinus are beautiful so it my solid purple Pseudochromis. Could this all be due to the Pseudochromis? If you think so, I might consider trapping him and trading him to another tank. <I would consider your tank pretty close to full as it is, and if its been successful until now, I would continue with your current stocking list. If you cannot upgrade to a larger settings, I would pass on another wrasse. I would only feel comfortable adding some sort of small fish, such as a small goby or Ecsenius sp. blenny into your current arrangement, in fear of tipping the bio-load too far.> Thank you, Nathan Tableman <No problem, Nathan. Hope this helps you! -JustinN> Flasher Wrasse Problem - 11/25/06 Your help in the past has been so beneficial for my reef inhabitants, I thought I would give you guys <<and gals>> a try on this problem that has everyone (myself, my friends, ReefCentral, the LFS, etc.) without a clue. <<Really? Hmm, I shall try...>> 7 weeks ago I purchased a male McCosker's Flasher wrasse from a LFS. <Gorgeous fish>> He was active and happy in the store and had been there for two weeks when I purchased him. For the first 6 weeks in my tank he was incredibly active and a voracious eater. 10 days ago, when I went to feed the tank, I noticed that he was sitting on the rockwork (he had never sat around during the day before). I fed the tank. He ate a bite or two and then "freaked out" swimming incredibly rapidly and jumping (two things I had never seen before). <<Not all that unusual, this genus (Paracheilinus) as a whole is quite "high-strung" at times, in my opinion/experience. I used to have a small group that any time the lights went suddenly off as with a power outage/interruption, you could hear the wrasses "pinging around" in the light fixture like little pinballs>> He then proceeded to hide in the rocks. Since then, I have seen him display this same behavior on three occasions. When I feed the tank, he will come out of hiding and eat a bit, but will not eat as he use to or swim around the tank at all. Any idea what is going on here? <<You say you've asked around so I have to think this has been brought up before but...sounds to me like you may have an aggression issue. Aside from interspecific confrontations, these fish are very peaceable and easily fall prey to more aggressive species (I have witnessed six-line wrasses terrorize/kill flasher and fairy wrasses). Even if "you" have not witnessed it...doesn't mean it's not happening>> Here is some tank information: 25 gallon display with 25 pounds of Marshall Island live rock. Parameters all very stable with 0 ammon., nitrite, nitrate. Temp 80. Ph 8.25. Alkalinity 4.5 Meq/L. Other inhabitants include snails, hermits, LPS, mushrooms, Zoanthids, Monti-cap. All in the entire time the fish has been here. <<Other fishes?>> There is a grounding probe in the tank. <<Mmm...more of a hunch than anything else, but try removing this for a time and see if the fish responds>> The only thought that we tested was that three days before his first freak out, a small Yashia goby and pistol shrimp were added. There was some concern that the pistol shrimp's popping was scaring him so the pistol was removed 5 days ago, but the behavior has not changed. <<Doubt this is the problem>> The goby is still in the tank, but there is no aggression between the two of them and, in fact, the spot where the wrasse hides all day long is right next to the goby's hiding spot. I appreciate any help on the issue. <<I don't feel like I've been much help thus far. Aside from aggression or stray voltage, there may be environmental issues at play here, to include excessive allelopathy in this relatively small/confined space. If you have not done so already, please read here and among the associated links at the top of the page for more info re husbandry/maintenance of these fishes (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/paracheilinus.htm)>> Oh, and by the way, the Scorpionfish you helped me with a few months ago is doing great ... thanks for your help! <<Good to know>> Adam <<Regards, EricR>> Flasher Wrasse - 10/17/06 Hi Bob (or crew), <Hey Art, MacL here with you tonight. Bob managed to miss the earth quake and go diving the lucky man.> I have a 55 gallon reef tank with one Psychedelic Mandarin, one Purple Firefish, two Skunk Cleaner Shrimp and one Fire Shrimp currently residing. I have had a 2.5" male Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse in my 30 gallon quarantine tank for two weeks now. I would like to have more Flasher Wrasses-- I know I'm supposed to add two females, and get them in the display before I add the male-- BUT I really want to get a male Blue Flasher Wrasse instead (P. cyaneus). I have two mesh dividers for the quarantine tank, so I would divide it in half, quarantine the Blue Flasher on one side, leave the Carpenter's on the other, so they could see each other, but not have access to one another (the divider is flush with the glass lid, so there would be no jumping over for a smack-down). I would add these two to the display tank at the same time. <You know I've had good luck mixing flasher wrasses in some tanks and bad luck mixing in others. Mostly good luck but just from experience, when I added one male other type wrasse and two female wrasses, I've ended up with one of the females changing to a male. In my 200 plus gallon tank it didn't matter they had plenty of space to get away from each other. So other than a bit of sparing it worked out fine. In my smaller tanks, it didn't work quite so well.> Is this a recipe for disaster, or is a 55 gallon w/lots of live rock and coral big enough for the two of them to coexist peacefully, without one fish relegated to standing in the corner? I see tanks where people keep many fairy/flasher wrasses, but of course, there could be so many the aggression is diffused. What are my chances of success with just two males, and would this situation likely intensify color in both, and increase flashing behavior or force one of them to repress color? As always, thanks for your time and expert advice-- I have really learned a lot from this site! <Once again I can only speak from experience. Two males will show for each other but add a female and they show off. Reality is that I'd recommend not having other fish and go for more flashers, they make amazing tank creatures. Definitely the way you are setting up is the way to go. Lots of live rock that they can swim in and out of. Lots of hidey places. Good luck Art and best wishes. > Art Flasher Wrasses and Anthiines - 10/03/06 Would Blue Flasher or Carpenter Flashers make suitable tank mates for my Bicolor Anthias? <<I think they would, yes>> Tank is 150 G. I'd like to add 1 male and 2 females. <<Should be fine, though you may want to consider adding an additional female (1 male to 3 females) to spread the interspecific aggression a bit more thinly>> Thanks, Ken Kristofick <<Quite welcome. Eric Russell>> Filamented Flasher Wrasse Biotope Crew, I am looking for some information; I'd like to set up a filamented flasher wrasse biotope. I have a 90g tank (48x18x24) with 4x96w PC lights and a completely enclosed hood. I seem to recall that this wrasse lives at depths of 40 feet or so and that the appropriate lighting would therefore be 20k MH bulbs. Is this the case, and if so is there any way I can adapt my current lighting to approximate that without switching over to MH. <your pc are fine use a 20,000k bulb or something on the blue end> I'd also like some advice on how many wrasse are appropriate for this size tank. <if this is the only fish going to be in there you could put 1 male and 6-10 females> Everything I've read suggests one male to two females, but assuming more than three fish is appropriate for this size tank, I don't know if that formula should be strictly applied to larger groups. Do these wrasse sleep in the substrate or in rock (i.e. do I have the option of going with a bare bottom tank)? <they sleep in rock and you do have the opinion for going with out substrate but many little critters live in there that they can eat> I was planning on a fairly substantial amount of rock in the tank (at least 150 lbs). Also, the wrasse seems to have a fairly large geographic area that it's from, and I'm interested in perhaps one or two types of corals that would be consistent with the wrasse's biotope. Are there any you can recommend? Again, I've looked around a lot but I can't find the kind of specific information on this particular subject (ex. Many corals are listed as being from Fiji or the great barrier reef but I can't seem to find an appropriate depth listing). <try Vernon books he lists everything> Finally, is there any particular restriction on water flow rate for this wrasse? <lots of flow> Any additional recommendations or advice you have would be helpful and much appreciated. Your site has been quite a help thus far, and I look forward to hearing from you. <I would add the females first let them get settle down the add the male. Also make sure you have tops covering the tank they are jumpers thanks Mike H> Thank you. -Orion Flasher wrasses 8/14/05 Dear Crew, <Michael> I have always had an eye for flasher wrasse. I love their color and shape. I have a 55G peaceful FOWLR. I want to get a mated pair. <Mmm, no such thing really> I have seen Paracheilinus carpenteri in a local store and just stared at it for an hour. That was the fish I planned to add to my tank, however after reading the article, Flasher Wrasses, the Genus on your site, I like the looks of Paracheilinus flavianalis and Paracheilinus rubricaudalis (what is their max size in an aquarium). <A couple, three inches...> Which of these three species would be best to have in my tank, or are they about equal. <The latter... much depends on previous care, capture, handling...> I don't see the latter two species in any local stores, so I'm thinking I may have to go with the Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse. Do the colors vary between fish? <Yes... considerably... take a look at the pix of fishbase.org, Google Images...> The two that are shown in that article are not as pink and showy as the one I saw in the store. Is this different fish from different seas, or do these fish change color as they mature? <Both location, time, care...> Thank you for any personal preference and insight into these fish you can provide! Mike <Keep good notes, please! Bob Fenner> - Fairy Wrasse and Clown Gobies - Hey Bob <Actually, JasonC today...> You will not remember me but you answered many of my questions back when you were working with the now defunct flyingfishexpress.com folks. <Seems like a long time ago.> Thanks for all that info, it helped me a lot. I'm putting together a new system, a basic reef with a RBT anemone and 2 Percs (had them for years) under MH lights. The tank is a 110 gal, 30 high, 48 long, 18 back to front with a massive skimmer (Euro-Reef CS8-2), 20 gal refugium with 6 inch DSB, 35 gal total in sump. There will be 4 Maxi-jets hooked to a wave-maker/controller, and I have not decided on the size of the Maxi-jets. There will be corals in the tank, however the focus is going to be on flasher and fairy wrasse. If I do my home work, and pick the wrasse for size and color to offset aggression, how many individuals could my system hold? <I wouldn't go nuts with fairy wrasses - even though they aren't typically aggressive fish, mixing more than two species in your tank might lead to trouble. You could do male/female pairs of each.> Also, are the various clown gobies (Gobiodon sp) able to live with fairy wrasse? <Sure.> Thanks for the help! Rich <Cheers, J -- > Wrasse Behavior - Jumping, Freaking And Hiding (Oh My!) - 05/23/05 Hello crew, <Evening> I'm very worried about my adult male Paracheilinus lineopunctatus. <Gorgeous fish> I've kept him for about 5 months now and up until recently he was a very active happy seeming fish. About one month ago he started jumping, or trying to. <Yep...all too common...a "high-strung" fish. My flashers use to literally "ping around" in the light hood like pin-balls if the lights suddenly went off due to a power outage.> I have the top 100% covered because I read these guys jump. <Mmm...not sealed I hope...possibly covered with egg-crate or similar?.> Problem is, when he hits the canopy it scares the crap out of him and he hides for days only to timidly re-emerge and start taking food again. Then after he starts getting bold and swimming above the rock again he'll try to jump. I feel really bad for him and I kind of wish I'd never have gotten him. I imagine him on the reef jumping at will and I feel terrible robbing him of that. <I wouldn't worry about this last item. According to Fishbase this specie is generally found at 12-40 meter depth. A long haul to the surface for a "recreational" jump <G>.> Many things I could correlate this behavior with but no clue as to a cause. 1. It seemed to coincide with his adulthood. He started getting his full adult coloration and size before he started jumping. 2. I added more light (3x18w NO --> 2x18w NO + 2 55w PC) about a month before this behavior started. he was fine for that month though. 3. I added a 1w 470nm moonlight about 6 weeks before. All water chemistry parameters test fine (0 NO3, PO4, Ca~370, dKH~8.5, SG~1.0255@78degrees F, temp~80 degrees F) Any experience with soothing crazy jumpers? Anything at all I could do to make my fish more happy? <Make sure another fish is not harassing your wrasse. But even if this is not the case, my experience has been that sooner or later these fish will jump. These fish can be kept, but as you're experiencing, they require some special considerations. One is a peaceful environment in which to live (extremely important in the unnatural confines of an aquarium), another is some type of grate directly on top of the tank openings.> Thank you so much, Andy <Regards, Eric R.> Carpenter flasher wrasse I have been looking through the site for info on carpenter flasher wrasses, but some of my questions I did not find answers to. I've been looking at one that is at one of my local fish stores but they only have one fish, 1) Are they ok to be kept single? <Yes> 2) What do they eat?<Worms, brine, Cyclop-Eeze, etc.> I have a trigger, coral beauty angel, 2 Perculas, orchid Dottyback, and a spotted Hawkfish. 3) Will the wrasse be compatible? <They have a peaceful temperament, and they are reef compatible.> And what I have read on the site makes me think that this is not an easy fish to keep.<From what I know they are relatively easy to care for.> 4) Are its chances of surviving low enough to not try the fish? <I'd give it a try.> Sorry for so many questions, but I was amazed by the fish when I saw it, but I don't buy anything without researching on your site. Thanks a lot Mike <James (Salty Dog)> Pass on The Wrasse? (Fairy Wrasse Selection)... a much better answer Dear Bob (or crew), <Scott F. your Crew Member today!> I have been looking through the site for info on Carpenter Flasher wrasses, but some of my questions I did not find answers to. I've been looking at one that is at one of my local fish stores but they only have one fish, 1) Are they ok to be kept single? <While they can be kept as solitary specimens, they are far happier and will behave more "naturally" (if there is such a thing in captivity!) when kept in smaller groups of one male to several females. You might see some of the "flashing" behaviors for which they are known. In my opinion, keeping more than one male in a smaller tank is not advised, however.> 2) What do they eat? <They will generally eat meaty foods, such as Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp (noticed I said "enriched"?), and some of the prepared "Formula" foods.> I have a Trigger, Coral Beauty Angel, 2 Perculas, Orchid Dottyback, and a Spotted Hawkfish. 3) Will the wrasse be compatible? <Well, the fish can work in such a community setup, provided that your tank is large enough, plenty of hiding spaces provided, and if the Trigger doesn't harass him too much...> And what I have read on the site makes me think that this is not an easy fish to keep. 4) Are its chances of surviving low enough to not try the fish? <Well, Fairy Wrasses run the gamut from quite hardy to very touchy. This fish, in my experience, seems to fall somewhere in between. If it was collected carefully, handled well along the chain of custody from reef to your LFS, and if the fish is quarantined and eating, your chances are excellent for success.> Sorry for so many questions, but I was amazed by the fish when I saw it, but I don't buy anything without researching on your site Thanks a lot. Mike <We appreciate the confidence in our advice, Mike! However, do get some opinions from fellow hobbyists who have also kept the fish, and do consult the writings of authors such as Scott Michael and Rudy Kuiter, who have written extensively on this group of fishes over the years. Take all advice (even ours!) with a grain of thought, and make your decisions accordingly! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Flasher Wrasses Hi All, <Tyler> I am the new owner of a 55 gallon tank. I'm planning to make this into another reef tank. I absolutely love Flasher Wrasses. Would four (1 male, three females) be too much for a 55? If this sounds right, would I be at my maximum for fish? Thanks. <Mmm, I would try just a trio, one male... with lots of live rock... some other fishes might fit in... as long as they aren't too large, aggressive. Bob Fenner> Re: Flasher Wrasses Thanks for the quick response! After the tank is cycled, should I add one at a time, or should I add the females first, followed by the male later? <The second process is best. Bob Fenner> Flasher wrasse in a 30 gal? Dear WWM Crew, I have a 2 1/2 year old 30 gallon mini reef (my first aquarium of any kind) and with the assistance of your site's wealth of info I've managed to avoid any major problems with the possible exception of the "new reef-keeper coral garden syndrome". Regular harvests of xenia, mushrooms and to a lesser extent frogspawn and Pocillopora are actually coming close to covering the expenditures to maintain the tank, and I'm slowly getting the coral density back to something more reasonable. The system has a 10 gallon sump/refugium (About 6 gallons is actual refugium) returned by a Mag 7 and I run 2 skimmers, the original Prizm with a Poly Filter in the media basket and an Aqua-C Remora that I got in May. I also use an Aqua clear Mini for mechanical filtration and to hold carbon. Add a Maxi Jet 1200 and I come up with about 29x turnover of the total water volume so there is good movement in the system. The refugium was originally planted with Caulerpa prolifera but I've switched over to Chaetomorpha (I keep a few runners of the Caulerpa going too. You never know.) and is lit 24/7. Ph is 8.3-8.4 just before lights on and never exceeds 8.5. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are undetectable. (In fact I bought a new nitrate test kit to make sure because I never got a reading after the initial cycle.) Alkalinity is 3 mEq and calcium is 300 ppm. Both are on the way up slowly as I've just balanced supplementation of Kalk with a regular harvest of corals. I have three fish currently all for two years. One 2.75" Ocellaris Clownfish, one 2" Ocellaris Clownfish and one somewhat shy 2.75" Fridmani Pseudochromis. Until July I had a 3.5" Sixline wrasse too who was my absolute favorite. He would pose at the front of the tank for people and never stopped moving (or eating, he was a hog). Unfortunately in August he got out the back of the tank despite my screening. He must have done a salmon flop up the Prism's outflow or something so I added some more screen there and secured it better. Hopefully no repeats in the future. Now with all of the background done here is my question! I have been looking at adding another fish to replace my late Sixline. Since he's been gone the clowns don't come out of their xenia forest much at all and the male has taken to biting me when I put my hand in the tank. (Or maybe he likes the taste of rubber.) Just less activity overall and I think that losing the #1 eater/pooper may have at least indirectly led to the demise of my fighting conch. I figured that getting a fish to fill a similar niche in the tank was probably a good idea but wanted to try something a little different like maybe one of the smallest of fairy wrasses or a flasher wrasse. After a lot of research I have decided that a Carpenter's flasher wrasse would be a nice fit. The only hang up is that several sources suggest that maintaining just one is not optimal for the fish's long term health and coloring. My Sixline would flare and show off all the time and I'd like to encourage the same behavior in a flasher wrasse. If I get a pair of juveniles will one end up as a male and one a female? << No, I don't think this is a good idea. I wouldn't recommend a flasher wrasse for this tank. If you do get one, then I'd only get one. They are territorial and aggressive eaters. >> Also will the undivided attention of one male stress a female badly? I think that my system can sustain two of this size fish no problem but I'm uncomfortable adding more than that since my long term rule from day one was no more than 15" of fish. (I'm allowing for the clowns to grow a little more.) So I don't want to add three - I'll choose something else. I'm not too worried about aggression from the current inhabitants. The clowns and the Dottyback keep very small territories. (And I used to catch them and the Sixline schooling together when they thought no one was looking!) Please let me know if two flasher wrasses will be a suitable number or if they should be maintained in odd groups only. << I'd try one for now. >> One other question if you don't mind. I have a 10 gallon quarantine tank with another Aquaclear mini. (Two sponges are "baking" in the sump right now.) I was thinking of moving the Prizm skimmer over to the quarantine tank during the month the new fish will be in there. I would take it off before adding any medications and if any disease does turn up I'll clean it completely with bleach and leave it sit dry for a month or so before returning it to the main tank. Would I create any complications in the quarantine tank if the skimmer was running in it along with the power filter? << Sounds like a good idea, maybe not necessary but a good idea. >> It seems to me that the new fish would be living in royal digs if they had a skimmer in QT. I appreciate your input very much and thanks a ton in advance! Matt Three Rivers, MI << Blundell >> I want the wrasse, but not the cyanide >Hi to all, >>Well HELLO Bry! Fancy meetin' you here. ;) >I haven't asked any questions for a while as I have been busy redesigning my tank and getting it set up. It has now been running for about 3-4 months this time around. I have a 55 gal corner bow, 20 gal sump 15-20 X turnover rate, 60 lbs of liverock, 4" DSB, and quite a few snails, blue leg hermit crabs, tons of bristle worms, brittle stars and various pods. >>I remember from your post on RDO. >I decided on the list of fish to keep before I set up the tank, and conferred with several of you on different choices. Here is the list that was decided on: 3 Carpenter Flasher Wrasses (2 female and 1 male) 2 PJ Cardinals 1 Fire Goby 1 Pearlscale Butterflyfish 1 Longnose Hawkfish They were to be added in that order, with a minimum of a month quarantine. >>Sounds pretty good to me. But, I've become particular to Banggai cards, myself. >Now for my problem. The Carpenter Flasher Wrasses are hard to find. >>Oh yes they are! But GORGEOUS. >I have also heard a little bit of rumor that they are being caught with cyanide. So, I am wondering, >1.. Have any of you heard of a company that has Carpenters that are guaranteed to not be caught with cyanide? >2.. If not, is there any way to tell by looking at a live specimen if it was in fact captured using those means? I have not read of any kind of test that can be done by the time the end user (me) receives the fish, but I was wondering what your thoughts on this are. >>Well, IIRC, Budhaboy suggested going with Mary Middlebrook. Matt Wandell, as well as NKT (sorry, don't know his real name) seem to know of where to find the "hard to find" fishes, and the only places I know of are wholesale ONLY. (Sea Dwelling Creatures would be the first place I'd look, but they will not sell to you, and I've seen them at Quality Marine as well.) Have you Googled? Now, let's see if we can sort out whether or not cyanide caught. The issue is that the only test I know of requires the fish to be killed. Beyond that, we look to point of origin: Paracheilinus carpenteri hails from the Indo-Pacific, so we could surmise that there's a good chance that, even if not actually caught with cyanide, they may have been exposed. Check this link on http://www.fishbase.org (bookmark that!) http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?ID=4843&genusname=Paracheilinus&speciesname=carpenteri >3.. If I can't find this fish, could you suggest a replacement that would go good with the other fish in my list? Thanks once again for your time and a great website. Bryan Flanigan >>Digging in my memory banks here, I recollect something called a "mystery wrasse" (our own JasonC has a very nice--and hard to come by--specimen), there are also picture wrasses, as well as other fairy wrasses. If you go for Red Sea animals you'll be more certain to avoid the cyanide issue, as well as with Australian animals. If you see that an animal hails from Indonesia or the Philippines, you might be concerned with cyanide exposure. IIRC, it's not as widespread in Fiji or Bali, two other areas to consider. I don't know if there's a wrasse site quite as dedicated as that Japanese goby site (that site is da bomb), but it's worth a Google, eh? Do feel free to contact Mary at http://www.seacrop.com because even if she can't supply you with the fish, she knows at least as well as anyone I can think of what the chances are of being able to determine whether or not an animal's been exposed. Talk to you soon! Marina Flasher Wrasses I recently ordered 3 filament flasher wrasses mail order. When they arrived, none of them looked to be in good shape. One did not make it through the night but the other two seemed to have come around.<sorry to hear about that> They have been in QT for 10 days now. Physically, they look fine but their behavior is very odd.<doesn't sound good> They often seem to make a vertical twitching/shaking movement. I am worried about this and was wondering if this behavior was normal.<not really, they do act strange but not switching and such> They are feeding and look fine.<well if they are eating then that is an excellent sign> I also wondered the recommended QT period on these fish as I read on your site and in the book that a short QT for wrasses is best.<well if they are doing well in the next couple weeks...eating/acting normal etc I would add them to the main aquarium> Exactly how long is short.<Qt process for the wrasses all depends on how well they do...I like to keep my fish in quarantine for at least 3 weeks> I normally quarantine for 3-4 weeks. <I do too> Also, will it be fine to add 2-3 more wrasses later (same species).<These wrasses do get along in groups, but I would still be cautious on introducing "new specimens" to the aquarium. You could try it but would definitely remove the new additions if they are getting attacked by the other 2, it is always best to introduce fish of the same species at the same time> Thanks for your input. Abby <your welcome, IanB>
Twelve-line Wrasse Hi... My daughter noticed that my 12-line wrasse has an extended belly. This must have happened in the last week because I've never noticed it before. Could the fish be pregnant even though there are no other wrasses in the tank? The belly is really extended, but I can't tell if they are eggs. What should I do? Thanks for your help!!! <Hmm, Wrasses are not asexual, so no, it wouldn't be eggs or young! This could be overfeeding, normal, or possibly signs of internal disease. Please keep and eye on him and make sure your conditions are optimal. These guys will eat about anything....anything missing? For more on lined Wrasses, check out these links: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pseudocheilinus.htm Perhaps follow the disease links to swim bladder disease if required. Don't you wish they could talk? It sure would make it easier! Craig> Cirrhilabrus-fan Dear Mr. Bob Fenner, <Yosh!> My name is Hiroyuki Tanaka, a long-time marine aquarist. <Pleased to meet you> I saw your web for the first time and I was impressed with the part of photos and comments for Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus. That are one of my most favorites. I actually am writing a book on three genera including these with Conniella. Then I now have over 600 photos of every species, including the undescribed sent by many friends all over the world. I hope that the book would be out in 2004-5. <Sounds very good. Are you familiar with the ten volume series Rudie Kuiter and Helmut Debelius are producing through Tropic Marine Centre... a couple are to cover the popular Labrid genera. You can get an idea of what these might be/cover here: www.tmc-ltd.co.uk> Well let me correct and add some things in the web. 1 Cirrhilabrus part. It comprises 40 species at present and one would be added so soon; it is from Coral Sea and will be described by Randall and Nagareda. C. solorensis is a valid one now. <Yes, saw this in a paper this last week> C. filamentosus photo is shown in your C. rubriventralis part, on the right photo. <Thank you for this correction> Photo of C. cyanopleura is shown as C. rubripinnis. <And this one!> Who took photo of C. blatteus shown there? Yours? <Yes> It is very good. I hope to get such photographs in my book. <You are welcome to use my photographs my friend. Let me know what sort of output/scans I can supply you. Most all current ones are 300 dpi tiffs, at 2.3 megs each> It is one of the rarest seen by ordinary divers. Jack, Rudie and Helmut have some shots but if you are OK I hope to borrow this excellent one. <You're welcome to it> Also the shot of C. exquisitus from Fiji is great. I have only one from there by Rudie and yours is so nice. 2 Paracheilinus part 13 species is recognized at present. Genus Paracheilinus A angulatus Randall & Lubbock,1981 Philippines, n. Indonesia Royal Flasher Wrasse, Angular FW B attenuatus Randall,1999 Seychelles, Kenya coast Attenuate FW, Seychelles FW C bellae Randall,1988 Marshalls, Palau Bell's FW D carpenteri Randall & Lubbock,1981 s. Japan to W. Pacific Carpenter's FW E cyaneus Kuiter & Allen,1999 Sulawesi Blue FW F filamentosus Allen,1974 Indonesia, Philippines, Solomons, Okinawa, Palau Filamented FW G flavianalis Kuiter & Allen,1999 Indonesia, w. Australia Yellowfin FW H hemitaeniatus Randall & Harmelin-Vivien,1977 s.w. Ind. Ocean Halfbanded FW, Madagascar FW I lineopunctatus Randall & Lubbock,1981 Philippines, n. Indonesia Line-spot FW J mccoskeri Randall & Harmelin-Vivien,1977 Ind. Ocean, Indonesia?, Fiji? McCosker's FW K octotaenia Fourmanoir,1955 Red Sea Eightline FW L piscilineatus (Cornic,1987) w.Mauritius Elegant FW, Fairy FW M togeanensis Kuiter & Allen,1999 Lembeh Str. Togean FW 'P.dispilus' is really not a member of Paracheilinus. The female shown as P. carpenteri seems a member of Cirrhilabrus;
I cannot tell it exactly, an interesting fish. <Really? Honto des? Will check> I hope to exchange photos I have if you like; some of the photos are taken by my friends. I can send C. aurantidorsalis, flavidorsalis, tonozukai, etc. soon. <Ahh, great> I hope you to reply to my inquiry, and I will greatly appreciate you when you kindly send me photos. <Will do so. Again, please make it known if the current scan size, type is okay. Bob Fenner> Best Wishes, Hiroyuki Hiroyuki Tanaka, medical doctor (CCP-Laboratory) Director of Jinguh Clinic (address) 2-2-79 Jinguh Miyazaki, Miyazaki 880 JAPAN Fax: (Int'l: +81) 985-25-1996 essayist for Fish Magazine (Jack Fruits & Rich Flavors from Hawai'i, Marine Topics) has contributed to Marine Aquarist, Tropical Fish Hobbyist, Tropical Marine Aquarium, Salt & Sea, Marine Diving, etc. minor adviser for http://www.coralrealm.com/ contributor: http://www.actwin.com/fish/species/index.php?t=2f=2 A flock of frail, failing, flying flasher wrasses Greetings, Oh Wise Ones! The few people around here are into big carnivorous things in fish-only tanks, and can't answer my questions..... I wanted Carpenter's flasher wrasses (Paracheilinus carpenteri) as the centerpiece fish in my reef tank, and have tried twice to get some. Both times my LFS ordered them from Quality Marine. The first time I got 5, 2 were DOA, 2 were sluggish and either laying on their sides or swimming with their noses straight up, must've been looking to heaven to see if it had seas because they were dead the next morning. The last one held on for about 3 days before it too expired. <Yikes, sounds like a very delayed or distressed shipment> A month later I tried 2 more. One mostly hid until the second night when she started zipping around the tank like a speed-crazed chipmunk, completely pale. She finally stopped, and about 2-3 minutes later had most of her color back. She sat out in the open for a long time, then went back into the rocks, and the next morning she was dead. The last one did great, was darting out of the rocks to snarf up all the micro-crustaceans, swimming specks, and frozen fish food and zip! back in her cave. 6 days later on Easter morning she is nowhere to be seen in the tank, finally look down on the floor and there she is, no resurrection for that poor cellophane fishlet <Very common source of mortality... desiccation from jumping> (WARNING Carpenter's Flasher Wrasses Jump Out Of Their Tanks!!!!!!! I hadn't read that anywhere) <What? Take a read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/paracheilinus.htm> Well, pluck!!!!!!!!!!! the fish off the floor, and wonder what the problem is. My water quality is pretty good (temp 78 F, salinity 1.024, ammonia and nitrites 0, nitrates about 20 in the quarantine tank and 15 in show tank first time, nitrates 10 the second time, good circulation and aeration, skimmer was on their tank). Do they ship poorly, are they frail, could these have been cyanide collected, does the wholesaler have a reputation for sending out highly stressed fish, or did I do something wrong? <Mmm, do ship poorly (easily damaged, stressed), more than average frail, not generally cyanided for collection (caught in fence nets, about the only way to do it), Quality is at, or near the top of wholesalers (See WWM review of these outfits, QM, TMC...)... probably just bad "batches" from the wild, poor handling/acclimation on someone's part> They're not cheap, and cheap or not I can't bear to keep watching those beautiful fish die. Should I just give up on flasher wrasses? I won't buy any more if they can't be expected to make it. <Read through the Wrasse, Labrid sections on WWM please> Thanks for the help! --Kari (Anthony--what about a used water tower instead of a swimming pool? use the tower part for a gigantic skimmer, cut the top off, line it with fiberglass, and you could climb up into the sky to snorkel in your very own giant wineglass reef! keeheeheeheehee! If I've got any money left after buying corals I'll bail you out when you get busted for hijacking the Instant Ocean semi-truck....) <Mmm, does sound reasonable... Bob Fenner, still drying out from last months diving> Three questions (worms, Wormfish, not-so-wormy wrasses) Bob-
It's been over 2 years since I've picked your brain, so I'm
going to indulge with 3 questions: 1) I just bought a
"Trap-em" Bristleworm trap for my nanoreef, b/c of my first
ever infestation after 3 years. When I checked at midnight, it was full
of worms; in the morning it was empty. Do you have any suggested mod.s
to contain them? <These are posted in FAQs files on WetWebMedia.com
under Polychaete, Bristleworms...> 2) I can't find any info on
the Curious Wormfish I put in my main tank except for the Fishbase
info. It stays hidden under the crushed coral 90% of the time and seems
to come out at night. No one picks on him. <They do hide...
generally more than this!> 3) Is it crucial that filament wrasses be
kept in m/f pairs? I've got a small female that seems to be doing
fine. <Not crucial... males look, behave "better" in the
presence of females... Bob Fenner> Thanks, |
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